EP0069629A1 - Procédé de fabrication et de montage d'un pull-over en maille et pull-over obtenu par ce procédé - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication et de montage d'un pull-over en maille et pull-over obtenu par ce procédé Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0069629A1
EP0069629A1 EP82401157A EP82401157A EP0069629A1 EP 0069629 A1 EP0069629 A1 EP 0069629A1 EP 82401157 A EP82401157 A EP 82401157A EP 82401157 A EP82401157 A EP 82401157A EP 0069629 A1 EP0069629 A1 EP 0069629A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
panel
knitted
knitting
special
heat
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP82401157A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
André Fillion
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Borgne & Fils SA
Original Assignee
Borgne & Fils SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Borgne & Fils SA filed Critical Borgne & Fils SA
Publication of EP0069629A1 publication Critical patent/EP0069629A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D04B1/20—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the object of the present invention is to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks. More precisely, it relates to a process for the manufacture and assembly of knitted sweaters, making it possible to obtain setting quickly and automatically. desired shape, from a rectangular knitted flat panel, without making reference marks for cutting the constituent elements, considerably limiting the number of seams during assembly, without any loss of knitted fabric, and in a time of preparation which may be limited from 50 to 80%. of the normal time of a conventional assembly.
  • a concrete example of the manufacture of sweaters according to the process of the invention has reduced the manufacturing time to 8 minutes.
  • the incorporation of heat shrinkable material is carried out by combined use and localized in determined proportions of another special secondary knitting yarn having the property of shrinking with heat , for example a vinyl thread sold by Dupont de Nemours, under the brand LYCRA.
  • the incorporation dosage is obtained by experience, depending on the desired conformation and the desired curve, by appropriate use of the "throwers" carrying this special secondary thread.
  • the recommended change in mesh structure can be obtained, at shoulder and neck height, by the exclusive or preferential use of a knitting yarn of different title (size, diameter) from that used for the obtaining the actual body from the sweater.
  • the knitted panel to which we have "incorporated” this type of special secondary wire shrinkable to heat is laid flat, piece by piece on a flat "steam table", and brought to temperature by jet of steam for a time of the order of the minute, and the curved shaping is obtained automatically without the need to use a curved press of special conformation, the retractable fabric reacting alone to obtain the desired curvature (usual retraction of about 50%).
  • knitting is also "incorporated", but possibly also; heat shrinkable wire but in less proportion, at the height of the sweater belt, to obtain narrowing and curves, precisely to the right of the belt.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic plan view showing the conventional cutting of a knitted panel on a straight machine.
  • Fig. 2 is a plan view of the sweater obtained by this process.
  • Fig. 3 is a schematic plan view of a rectangular plane panel obtained on a rectilinear machine for implementing the method according to the invention.
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of a sweater, seen from the back, obtained by the method according to the invention and comprising the desired narrowing at the desired locations.
  • the stitching of the different parts of the sweater involves shoulder seams 7 and 8, side seams 9 and 10, sleeve seams 11 and 12 and armhole seams 13 and 14.
  • the article is then ready for mounting a collar added by sewing along line 15.
  • the manufacture and assembly of a knitted sweater involves analogous manufacture of a flat rectangular panel 16 with lower rim 17 along the desired width, with change of mesh structure, as already described, and addition of shrinkable material at the desired locations to obtain the desired shape, thanks to the passage of the panel on a heat press, such as a steam jet table.
  • the cutting is limited to the length of the reference lines 18, 19 and 20, which are obtained by incorporating identification means provided for knitting, which therefore eliminates any subsequent operation of tracing on the panel 16 after its manufacturing.
  • the reference lines 18, 19 and 20 correspond to the slits on the sides of the sweater.
  • the panel 16 was thus cut into four contiguous elements 21, 22, 23 and 24, which correspond respectively and successively to a sleeve, the front, a second sleeve, and the back.
  • the lines 21a and 21b are assembled by sewing to close the sleeve 21, the lines 22a and 24b on the one hand, 22b and 24a on the other hand, sopt assembled to close the sides and assemble the back and the front, the lines 23a and 23b are assembled to close the sleeve 23 and the lines 25 and 26 are assembled to close the back in the extension of the underside of the sleeve 21 to the neck. 27.
  • each reference line 18, 19 or 20, added to the length of the reference line 25 or 26, is equal to the total height of the panel.
  • the same shrinkage can be obtained at the height of the belt.
  • this incorporation was achieved by the localized use of a special secondary knitting yarn, it also falls within the scope of the invention to proceed with the incorporation of the retractable material, either by knitting but by spraying a special product on the knitted threads, having the particularity of causing these threads to shrink by subsequent action of heat.
  • this incorporation on the yarns, of said pulverized product can be made by treating the yarn, before or after knitting, on the condition, once the sweater has been obtained, of not running the risk of seeing it dissociate or become dissolve said product, which would make the curve and shrinkage disappear, for example, during cleaning or when going to the dyer.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
EP82401157A 1981-07-03 1982-06-23 Procédé de fabrication et de montage d'un pull-over en maille et pull-over obtenu par ce procédé Withdrawn EP0069629A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8113107 1981-07-03
FR8113107A FR2508943A1 (fr) 1981-07-03 1981-07-03 Procede de fabrication et de montage d'un pull-over en maille et pull-over obtenu par ce procede

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0069629A1 true EP0069629A1 (fr) 1983-01-12

Family

ID=9260165

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP82401157A Withdrawn EP0069629A1 (fr) 1981-07-03 1982-06-23 Procédé de fabrication et de montage d'un pull-over en maille et pull-over obtenu par ce procédé

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0069629A1 (https=)
FR (1) FR2508943A1 (https=)

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB765882A (en) * 1954-07-03 1957-01-16 British Nylon Spinners Ltd Process for the production of pattern effects in knitted fabrics
GB1061198A (en) * 1963-11-26 1967-03-08 Herbert Werner Heinrich Grau Knitted fabric and method of producing the same
GB1067944A (en) * 1965-03-05 1967-05-10 S D Stretton & Sons Ltd Improved knitted fabric and a method of producing the same
DE1585477A1 (de) * 1965-07-21 1971-02-04 Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky Mehrteiliges Strickwarenerzeugnis
GB1304220A (https=) * 1970-09-08 1973-01-24
FR2254665A1 (en) * 1973-12-12 1975-07-11 Ridley Spriggs & Johnson Knitting workpieces for making up into panties - from a seamless tube, without cutting the fabric to waste

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB765882A (en) * 1954-07-03 1957-01-16 British Nylon Spinners Ltd Process for the production of pattern effects in knitted fabrics
GB1061198A (en) * 1963-11-26 1967-03-08 Herbert Werner Heinrich Grau Knitted fabric and method of producing the same
GB1067944A (en) * 1965-03-05 1967-05-10 S D Stretton & Sons Ltd Improved knitted fabric and a method of producing the same
DE1585477A1 (de) * 1965-07-21 1971-02-04 Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky Mehrteiliges Strickwarenerzeugnis
GB1304220A (https=) * 1970-09-08 1973-01-24
FR2254665A1 (en) * 1973-12-12 1975-07-11 Ridley Spriggs & Johnson Knitting workpieces for making up into panties - from a seamless tube, without cutting the fabric to waste

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2508943B1 (https=) 1984-05-04
FR2508943A1 (fr) 1983-01-07

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Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

AK Designated contracting states

Designated state(s): AT BE CH DE GB IT LI LU NL SE

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 19821105

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN

18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 19851231

RIN1 Information on inventor provided before grant (corrected)

Inventor name: FILLION, ANDRE