EP0034977B1 - Procédé industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de préférence en métal précieux, comportant des pierres serties, dispositif permettant de mettre en oeuvre ledit procédé de bijoux obtenus - Google Patents

Procédé industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de préférence en métal précieux, comportant des pierres serties, dispositif permettant de mettre en oeuvre ledit procédé de bijoux obtenus Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0034977B1
EP0034977B1 EP81400235A EP81400235A EP0034977B1 EP 0034977 B1 EP0034977 B1 EP 0034977B1 EP 81400235 A EP81400235 A EP 81400235A EP 81400235 A EP81400235 A EP 81400235A EP 0034977 B1 EP0034977 B1 EP 0034977B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
groove
stones
jewellery
precious metal
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP81400235A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0034977A1 (fr
Inventor
Alain Plantureux
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Diamant Applications SA
Original Assignee
Chancel Jean-Louis
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Chancel Jean-Louis filed Critical Chancel Jean-Louis
Priority to AT81400235T priority Critical patent/ATE9644T1/de
Publication of EP0034977A1 publication Critical patent/EP0034977A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0034977B1 publication Critical patent/EP0034977B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588—Jewelry or locket making
    • Y10T29/4959—Human adornment device making
    • Y10T29/49593—Finger ring making

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an industrial process for manufacturing jewelry, in particular rings, preferably made of precious metal, comprising gemstones; it also relates to the equipment usable for the production of this jewelry and the jewelry thus obtained.
  • a ring is suitably calibrated of said metal, then holes in this ring are drilled in a cylindrical shape, the stone to be placed in the opening thus formed crimping, then crimping is carried out by bringing the metal surrounding the stone above the edge thereof, by hammering for example.
  • rings can be produced as described above by using claws which, after placing the stone in a suitably arranged seat, will be folded over the stone.
  • the base has the shape of a ring and the surface on which the stones will be placed will be called the external surface.
  • the drilling according to the invention can be carried out by any known means. Made from the outer surface of the ring, this drilling is carried out so that the hole obtained has two diameters: a relatively large dimeter near the outer surface of the ring and a smaller diameter near the surface inside of the ring. This arrangement of the hole is made so that, on the one hand, the dimensions of the larger diameter hole correspond (taking account of the pre-setting groove) to the dimensions of the stones to be crimped but, on the other hand, the part "inner" of the ring still has enough metal to present the desired mechanical strength.
  • This drilling of a cylindrical hole with two diameters is carried out without difficulty using a "drill" said to have two diameters.
  • the pre-tightening groove can also be produced by any known means, in particular by a reamer whose axis of the tool is offset from the axis of the hole into which it has entered.
  • the shape of the throat is not critical; however, this shape can advantageously be, in section, triangular; in fact, the shape of the groove is designed to adapt as exactly as possible to the shape of the stone to be set.
  • the position of the groove inside the hole is important, given that the stone must be crimped by "snapping" into said groove.
  • the snap-fastening of the stone implies, during the positioning of said stone, a slight elastic deformation of the part of the metal forming the "outside" edge of the groove. It is therefore advisable that the groove is positioned so that this elastic deformation is possible.
  • At least one groove is produced on the outer surface of the ring, for example by milling which, cooperating with the presetting groove located in the immediate vicinity of this surface, gives rise to groffs which can facilitate the snapping of the stone.
  • these grooves are not essential since, thanks to a suitable choice of the position and the shape of the presetting groove, it is possible to obtain "edges" which are sufficiently elastic to allow, without grooves, of the stones.
  • the groove (s) can (can) be made along the entire circumference of the ring and passing through the median plane of the holes; these grooves can also be arranged perpendicular to the lateral faces of the ring according to the diameter of each hole or at equal distance between these holes. It is easy to see that by choosing the positioning and the width of the grooves appropriately, cuts of very different shapes and "deformability" are produced.
  • the essential advantage of the industrial process according to the invention is that the various operations can be automated in themselves and in their succession. Since the operations are automatable in themselves, this implies that the diameters of the bore and the groove can be exactly adjusted to the dimensions of the stones to be crimped; this precision allows in particular the setting of contiguous stones.
  • the angle of the groove is also adaptable to the stone and to the setting process; finally, it is possible to choose suitably, still depending in particular on the stone, the distance from the groove to the outer surface of the ring.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Drilling And Boring (AREA)
EP81400235A 1980-02-25 1981-02-17 Procédé industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de préférence en métal précieux, comportant des pierres serties, dispositif permettant de mettre en oeuvre ledit procédé de bijoux obtenus Expired EP0034977B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT81400235T ATE9644T1 (de) 1980-02-25 1981-02-17 Industrielles verfahren zur herstellung von schmuck, insbesondere von mit eingefassten steinen versehenen ringen, vorzugsweise aus edelmetall, vorrichtung zur durchfuehrung dieses verfahrens und der erhaltene schmuck.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8004057A FR2476459A1 (fr) 1980-02-25 1980-02-25 Procede industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de preference en metal precieux, comportant des pierres serties
FR8004057 1980-02-25

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0034977A1 EP0034977A1 (fr) 1981-09-02
EP0034977B1 true EP0034977B1 (fr) 1984-10-03

Family

ID=9238917

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP81400235A Expired EP0034977B1 (fr) 1980-02-25 1981-02-17 Procédé industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de préférence en métal précieux, comportant des pierres serties, dispositif permettant de mettre en oeuvre ledit procédé de bijoux obtenus

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US4457056A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
EP (1) EP0034977B1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
JP (1) JPS56132902A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
AT (1) ATE9644T1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
CA (1) CA1192730A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
DE (1) DE3166391D1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
ES (1) ES499859A0 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
FR (1) FR2476459A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2545241B1 (fr) * 1983-04-26 1988-12-30 Diamant Applic Procede et dispositif pour la preparation du sertissage de pierres precieuses dans une monture de forme quelconque
FR2579085B1 (fr) * 1985-03-21 1987-07-03 Diamant Applic Procedes de fabrication de bijoux comportant une ou plusieurs rangees de pierres et bijoux obtenus par ces procedes
ES2328780B2 (es) 2008-11-25 2010-06-01 Rafael Gomez Sanchez, S.A. Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento.

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2749597A (en) * 1953-02-02 1956-06-12 Fus Walter Method of mounting stones in jewelry
FR1506317A (fr) * 1966-04-28 1967-12-22 Procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses, dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et produits résultant de l'application du procédé
FR96389E (fr) * 1968-12-30 1972-06-16 Diamants & Joaillerie Henri Fa Procédé pour le sertissage en série de pierres précieuses.
DE2130319A1 (de) * 1971-06-18 1973-01-04 Richard Kloetzel Juwelierfasserfraese
FR2386281A1 (fr) * 1977-04-06 1978-11-03 Bowy Pmba Procede pour la realisation de bijoux et bijoux et composants de bijoux obtenus par ce procede
FR2411586A1 (fr) * 1977-12-13 1979-07-13 Garnier Robert Agencement pour le montage des pierres sur les bijoux

Family Cites Families (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1499818A (en) * 1922-09-27 1924-07-01 Franconetti August Gem-seat-grooving tool
US1642102A (en) * 1924-07-18 1927-09-13 Colomb Henri Jewel setting for watches and method of making same
FR627461A (fr) * 1926-05-11 1927-10-05 Outil à fraiser universel pour joaillier
US2718051A (en) * 1946-03-30 1955-09-20 Eversharp Inc Method of making ball type writing instruments
US2436120A (en) * 1946-05-22 1948-02-17 Pfeffer David Interchangeable jewel mounting
GB841565A (en) * 1956-07-23 1960-07-20 Shallwin Novelties Ltd Improvements in or relating to articles of jewellery and of personal adornment
US3261072A (en) * 1963-12-04 1966-07-19 Stanley Joseph Jewel setting
FR1505450A (fr) * 1966-10-04 1967-12-15 Procédé pour le sertissage en série de pierres précieuses, dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et produits résultants
JPS4725664U (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1971-04-15 1972-11-22
JPS50123589U (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1974-03-26 1975-10-09
JPS50125884U (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1974-03-29 1975-10-15
JPS5589313U (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1978-12-14 1980-06-20

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2749597A (en) * 1953-02-02 1956-06-12 Fus Walter Method of mounting stones in jewelry
FR1506317A (fr) * 1966-04-28 1967-12-22 Procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses, dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et produits résultant de l'application du procédé
FR96389E (fr) * 1968-12-30 1972-06-16 Diamants & Joaillerie Henri Fa Procédé pour le sertissage en série de pierres précieuses.
DE2130319A1 (de) * 1971-06-18 1973-01-04 Richard Kloetzel Juwelierfasserfraese
FR2386281A1 (fr) * 1977-04-06 1978-11-03 Bowy Pmba Procede pour la realisation de bijoux et bijoux et composants de bijoux obtenus par ce procede
FR2411586A1 (fr) * 1977-12-13 1979-07-13 Garnier Robert Agencement pour le montage des pierres sur les bijoux

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0034977A1 (fr) 1981-09-02
ATE9644T1 (de) 1984-10-15
FR2476459A1 (fr) 1981-08-28
DE3166391D1 (en) 1984-11-08
JPH0446561B2 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1992-07-30
US4457056A (en) 1984-07-03
ES8204590A1 (es) 1982-05-16
ES499859A0 (es) 1982-05-16
FR2476459B1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1982-10-15
CA1192730A (en) 1985-09-03
JPS56132902A (en) 1981-10-17

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