EP0003492A1 - Improvements in machines serving to make piped openings in a piece of cloth or the like - Google Patents

Abstract

Sewing machine (2) comprising means for making piped openings whose length is selectable by means of a key pad (41) associated with an electronic device with logic memory.

Description

The present invention relates to improvements in machines for making piped openings, such as pocket openings, in a piece of fabric or the like.

In machines of this kind existing at present, the adjustment of the mechanism for the production of piped openings of a given length is carried out manually by moving a slider. As this adjustment mechanism is arranged inside the machine, the operator is forced to raise the machine table, then, using a screwdriver, to loosen the slider locking member, position the cursor in the desired position, then tighten the locking member.

It should also be noted that the lifting plate supports, on its upper face, the sewing machine itself and, on its lower face facing the inside of the machine, a certain number of control mechanisms of the sewing machine, mechanisms for advancing the piece of fabric and mechanisms for cutting and notching the openings made in the piece of fabric. It follows that the weight of cj3 plateau is quite high.

Therefore, in addition to the above-mentioned adjustment being relatively long to perform, the lifting of the platform requires a physical effort all the more important as the personnel assigned to driving this kind of machine is, most of the time, a female staff.

In addition, during the manufacture of garments comprising several pockets of different lengths (for example example wallet pockets, pen pockets, lighter pockets inside a jacket), it is necessary to manipulate the pieces of fabric three times, which means making pockets of a first length in series for all pieces of fabric, then the pockets of a second length, then the pockets of a third length, by modifying, between each serial adjustment of the machine.

It is therefore only once all the pieces of fabric in a stack have been processed that they can be transported to the next manufacturing station.

This results in irregularities in the supply of the various workstations.

The object of the invention is essentially to remedy the drawbacks of existing machines and to ensure that they meet the various requirements of the practice better than in the past.

To this end, the machine of the invention is characterized in that it comprises control means arranged so as to make it manufacture, according to a predetermined sequence and cyclically, a succession of piped openings having different lengths for respectively a succession of unique and identical manual start-up operations.

It is thus possible to treat the same piece of fabric in one go and to successively manufacture there the various piped openings with which it must be provided, the machine adjusting itself automatically to the appropriate length.

• - des moyens d'entrée pour introduire initialement et selon la séquence préétablie des informations concernant les longueurs des différentes ouvertures passepoilées à fabriquer,
• - des moyens de mémorisation pour mémoriser l'ensemble des informations de longueur introduites,
• - des moyens de sélection combinés aux moyens de mémorisation de façon à sélectionner successivement selon la séquence préétablie les longueurs des ouvertures passepoilées à fabriquer,
• - et des moyens de contrôle asservis aux moyens de sélection, pour, une fois la machine mise en marche, contrôler la longueur de déplacement d'organes de coupe, de piquage et de crantage, en fonction de la longueur sélectionnée.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the control means comprise:

• - input means for initially introducing and according to the pre-established sequence of information concerning the lengths of the various piped openings to be manufactured,
• storage means for storing all the length information entered,
• - selection means combined with the storage means so as to successively select the lengths of the piped openings according to the pre-established sequence to manufacture,
• - And control means slaved to the selection means, for, once the machine is started, control the length of movement of cutting, stitching and notching members, as a function of the selected length.

It is advantageous to constitute the input means in the form of a keyboard with keys and, to control the sequential and cyclic operation of the machine, to provide display means for displaying the length of the opening selected by the means selection and / or serial number, in the sequence performed, of the opening corresponding to the determined length.

In this case, the key keyboard and the display means are preferably grouped in a common box, accessible from outside the machine.

The operator is thus able to adjust the machine and monitor its operation without having to lift the platform.

• - des premiers moyens de contrôle pour contrôler la longueur du déplacement de la pièce de tissu sous les organes de coupe et de piquage,
• - et des seconds moyens de contrôle pour contrôler la position de celui des deux doigts de crantage qui est déplaçable.

Furthermore, it is advantageous for the control means to include:

• first control means for controlling the length of the movement of the piece of fabric under the cutting and stitching members,
• - And second control means for controlling the position of that of the two locking fingers which is movable.

Preferably, the first and second control means each comprise detector means for detecting the instantaneous position of a mobile element undergoing the movement to be controlled, comparator means for comparing said instantaneous position with the predetermined length selected by the selection means , and stop control means for stopping the movement in progress when the length traveled by the movable element is equal to the above selected length.

According to a particularly simple arrangement, the detector means comprise a movable transparent rule provided with opaque graduations and a transmitter and a radiation receiver fixedly arranged on either side of the graduated ruler.

In this case, it is possible to ensure that the transparent rule of the detector means understood by the first control means is secured to a movable table for driving the piece of fabric and that the transparent rule of the detector means understood by the second control means is integral with a drive cylinder for the support of the movable notching finger.

In addition, counting means are provided for counting the pulses delivered by the radiation receiver when the graduations of the rule intercept the radiation, the radiation _R nt used is preferably infrared radiation to make the control means insensitive to the ambient lighting.

• - la figure 1 est une vue perspective partielle, éclatée avec arrachements, d'une machine conforme à l'invention;
• - et la figure 2 est un schéma synoptique montrant la commande de la machine de la figure 1.

The invention will be better understood with the aid of the following description of a preferred embodiment, given by way of illustration, but in no way limiting; in this description, reference is made to the appended drawings in which:

• - Figure 1 is a partial perspective view, exploded with cutaway, of a machine according to the invention;
• - And Figure 2 is a block diagram showing the control of the machine of Figure 1.

It is necessary first of all to describe the essential organs comprised by a machine of the kind of those concerned by the invention.

As shown in FIG. 1, the machine comprises a plate 1, which can be raised by rotation around a joint (not visible in the figure) situated along its rear side, on which a sewing machine 2 rests. for the production of double piping openings) is equipped with two needles 3, transversely spaced from one another, intended to prick the edges of the piped opening (for example a garment pocket opening) and a cutting blade 4, disposed between the two needles and substantially at an equal distance from the latter, for cutting the pocket opening in the fabric.

A mobile clamping frame 5 keeps the piece of fabric 6 firmly applied and stretched on a mobile table 7 movable longitudinally relative to the plate 1, as indicated by the double arrow 8.

The machine also comprises, under the plate 1, a notching mechanism 9 intended to split the two ends of the pocket opening in a V shape, after cutting and sewing thereof, and to turn the fabric over. This mechanism 9 essentially comprises a fixed support 10 carrying, at that of its ends closest to the front of the machine, a first notching finger 11 movable vertically as indicated by the double arrow 12. The support 10 comprises a part 10a , elongated substantially parallel to the plate 1, hollowed out longitudinally to constitute a guide slide 13 for a mobile carriage 14 supporting a second locking finger 15, vertically movable as indicated by the double arrow in the same manner as finger 11 and simultaneously with this one.

The movement of the carriage 14 along the part 10a of the support 10, as indicated by the double arrow 16, is controlled by a double-acting cylinder 17 fixed to the support 10. For this purpose, the rod 18 of the cylinder 17 - which is arranged parallel to the elongated part 10a to reduce the size of the mechanism - is connected to a rod 19, which is parallel to it and which is secured to the carriage 14, by means of two bracing pieces 20, 21.

The various members which have been described so far, as well as at least some of their control devices, are supported by the plate 1.

However, there is no need to describe the machine in more detail, its other organs and control mechanisms being known to those skilled in the art.

In accordance with the invention, the machine is equipped with control means arranged so as to make it manufacture, according to a predetermined and cyclical sequence, a succession of piped openings having different lengths respectively by means of a succession of unique and identical manual interventions of start up.
In FIG. 2, the above-mentioned control means have been designated by the brace I and the operations carried out by the machine by the brace II.

We will now describe the constitution of the machine control means.

The reference 30 designates input means used to introduce initially, and according to the pre-established sequence of manufacture of the piped openings, information concerning the lengths of the different openings to be manufactured.

A first output of the input means 30 is connected to the input of storage means 31 storing in memory, in the order of the pre-established sequence, all of the length information.

The storage means 31 comprise a plurality of outputs, at the rate of an output by length information, connected to corresponding inputs of a selection device 32 arranged to select, and deliver on its main output 33, successively according to the sequence preset the lengths of the piped openings to be manufactured.

The selection device 32 also has an auxiliary control input 34 connected to the output of a control circuit 35 controlling the passage to the next length when the machine reaches the end of the manufacturing cycle of an opening.

It will be noted that the selection device 32 is arranged to select, under the control of the circuit 35, the first length introduced into the storage means 31 once the fabrication of the piped opening having the last length introduced into the storage means is completed. .

Finally, the selection device 32 has an auxiliary output 36 on which appears information representative of the serial number, in the preset sequence, of the length selected by the selection device. This output 36 is connected to the input of an auxiliary display device 37 intended to display the above information and to allow the operator to monitor the correct progress of the pre-established sequence.

In addition, and still to facilitate monitoring of the machine, it is advantageous that the length information is clearly visible, that is to say initially when it is introduced into the storage means using the input means 30 , either during operation of the machine to indicate the length selected by the selection means 32.

To this end, a main display device 38 is provided, provided with a digital display, having two inputs, one of which 39 is connected to an auxiliary output of the input means 30 and the other of which 40 is connected at the main output 33 of the selection means 32.

The input means 30, the main display device 38 and the auxiliary display device 37 are grouped in a common box 41, placed on the machine (for example on the sewing machine 2 or on the plate 1) of so that the operator always has it at hand and under the eyes.

As can be seen in FIG. 2, the input means 30 comprise a keyboard with keys 42 of the kind of that equipping pocket calculators; as indicated previously, the main display device comprises a digital display 43 of the type with bar or liquid crystal light-emitting diodes, this display being able for example to display with three figures (units, tens, hundreds) the actual value of the length expressed in metric units, or in all units as will be explained below; finally, the auxiliary display device 37 can comprise, in a simple manner, as many indicator lights 44 (preferably constituted by light-emitting diodes) as there are storage positions, and therefore of different lengths of openings achievable by the machine; by way of example, FIG. 1 shows four indicator lights corresponding to four types of openings.

Note that the selection device 32 and the auxiliary display device are arranged in such a way that the indicator lights 44 light up successively one after the other, for example from top to bottom in FIG. 1, when the machine successively produces the piped openings according to the predetermined sequence, the length of the corresponding opening being readable on the display 43.

In addition, it will be noted that the display 43 and the indicator light 44 which is on give the indication of the piped opening during manufacture, when the machine is in operation, or of the opening which will be manufactured when the machine is stopped, as will be explained later.

Furthermore, although this has not been shown in order not to overload FIG. 2, the control circuit 35 and the selection device 32 are arranged in such a way that, when length information has just been introduced into the storage means 31, the selection device 32 necessarily selects the first information stored when the machine is started by manufacturing the first opening to be made.

The main output 33 of the selection device 32 is connected to a first input 45 of a first comparator element whose second input 47 is connected to the output of a device 48 for measuring the instantaneous position of the table 7 (see Figure 1) supporting the fabric (an embodiment of the measuring device 48 will be given below). The output of the comparator element 46 is connected to the input of a device 49 for controlling the puncture stopping and cutting of the opening and stopping the advancement of the table 7.

The output 33 of the selection device 32 is also connected to a first input 50 of a second comparator element 51, the other input 52 of which is connected to the output of a device 53 for measuring the instantaneous position of the second finger of notching 15 (Figure 1). An exemplary embodiment of the measuring device 53 will be given later. The output of the comparator element 51 is connected to the input of a circuit 54 for controlling the vertical movement of the locking fingers 11 and 15 according to arrow 12 (see FIG. 1).

Referring again to Figure 1, the device 48 for measuring the instantaneous position of the table 8 comprises a transparent or translucent rule 55, arranged parallel to the direction of movement, represented by the double arrow 8, of the table 7.

Rule 55 is rigidly linked to table 7, to which it is fixed in any suitable manner; for example it is screwed onto supports 56 which are themselves screwed to the table 7. Furthermore, the rule 55 carries opaque indexes 57. Preferably, these indexes are regularly spaced from each other and can advantageously constitute a millimeter graduation.

On either side of the rule 55, are disposed a transmitter 58 and a receiver 59 of radiation, fixed to the plate 1 so that the radiation emitted by the transmitter 58 reaches the receiver 59 after having crossed the rule 55 ( or be intercepted by an index 57 of the graduation).

Given their particularly favorable speed of response and reliability, opto-electronic semiconductor devices (light emitting diode and phototransistor) can advantageously be used to constitute the transmitter 58 and the receiver 59. To avoid disturbing action ambient lighting, it is preferable that these devices operate in the infrared.

The receiver 59 is an integral part of - or is connected by a wire 60 to a - counting circuit (not shown) intended to count the electrical pulses transmitted by the receiver 59 when the infrared beam emitted by the transmitter 58 is intercepted by an index 57 of the graduation carried by rule 55.

The device 53 for measuring the instantaneous position of the second locking finger 15 is constituted in substantially the same way as the device 48 which has just been described.

As such, it includes a transparent or translucent rule 61, integral with the carriage 14 carrying the finger 15: as shown, the rule 61 is screwed onto the two bracing pieces 20 and 21.

Like rule 55, rule 61 is provided with opaque indexes 62 constituting a millimeter graduation. A transmitter 63 and a receiver 64, fixed for example to the cylinder 17, are arranged on either side of the rule 61 and the output of the receiver 64 is connected (by a wire 65) to a pulse counting circuit ( not shown).

We will now describe the operation of the machine with reference to Figure 1 and Figure 2 on which we have designated, by the letters A to F, the essential operations performed by the main organs of the machine.

First of all, the operator begins by memory, the keys 42 of the housing 41, the dif- _{fe ren} t _es lengths some openings passpoilées to manufacture each piece of fabric. As indicated previously, each length typed on the keyboard in the chosen unit system (for example in millimeters in the case considered) is displayed by the display 43.

At this moment, the machine is ready to carry out the manufacture, according to the pre-established and cyclical sequence, of the envisaged succession of piped openings having respectively the different lengths entered in memory.

The operator then places the piece of fabric 6 on the table 7 in such a way that the point K of the fabric (origin point of the opening to be made) is plumb with the notching finger 11.

The operator then starts the machine (phase A in Figure 2) by pressing for example an ON button (not shown in Figure 1), the only manual intervention he will have to perform during the manufacture of the opening considered.

The selection device 32 then selects the first length information present in the storage means 31, information which is therefore applied to the input 45 of the comparator element 46 and to the input 50 of the comparator element 51, and displayed on the display 43 at the same time as the first indicator light 44 lights up, which thus indicates that it is the first piped opening of the sequence which will be manufactured.

After lowering the clamping frame 5 on the fabric, the table 7 moves back, as indicated by the arrow Ba, to bring the above-mentioned point K under the cutting blade 4; then the table moves in the opposite direction (arrow 8b) while the cutting and sewing operation of the opening begins (phase B in FIG. 2).

During the movement of the table 7 along arrow 8b, the graduated rule 55 which is integral with it scrolls past the optoelectronic detector 58, 59, which delivers a pulse each time an index 57 intercepts the infrared ray.

The information constituted by these pulses is constantly compared by the comparator element 46 with the information provided by the selection device 32, and, when the movement made by the table 7 reaches the desired value, the element comparator 46 delivers an output signal actuating the device 49 controlling the stopping of the table 7.

Following this, the table is returned to its initial position (phase C in FIG. 2) in which the point K of origin of the opening is located directly above the notching finger 11.

Then the carriage 14 of the notching mechanism is moved by the cylinder 17 so that the movable finger 15 is spaced from the finger 11 by a distance corresponding to the length of the opening made in the fabric.

To do this, during the movement of the carriage 14, the graduated rule 61 which is integral with it scrolls past the optoelectronic detector 63, 64 which delivers a pulse each time an index 62 intercepts infrared radiation.

The information constituted by these pulses is constantly compared, by the comparator element 51, with the information present on the input 52 of this and supplied by the selection device 32. When the finger 15 has arrived in the desired position, the comparator element 51 delivers an output signal actuating the device 54 controlling the actuation of the catch mechanism;

Once this operation has been carried out (phase E on the Figure 2), the finger 15 is returned to its initial position, the clamping frame 5 of the fabric on the table 7 is raised, and the circuit 35 controls the selection device 32 so that it selects the following stored length corresponding to the next opening to be made. Following which the machine stops (phase F in Figure 2).

It can be noted that from this instant the operator is informed, by the display 43 and by the second indicator light 44 which has come on, of the length and of the sequence number in the opening sequence that the machine is ready to manufacture.

The operator then moves the piece of fabric, already provided with the first piped opening which has just been manufactured, to position it on the table 7 for the production of the second programmed opening, then he starts the machine again. pressing the START button, which causes the renewal of the operating process which has just been described.

When all the programmed piped openings have been manufactured in the same piece of fabric, the selection device 32 again selects, as indicated previously, the first stored length information, and the manufacturing cycle is repeated for a new piece of fabric, and this, regardless of the number of pieces of fabric to be treated and the number of piped openings to be made in each of them.

In this way, the operator can work continuously on each piece of fabric, which can immediately after being routed to the next work station.

In addition, the programming of the machine is carried out in a simple, rapid manner and without raising the plate 1, therefore without physical effort.

To improve the operating safety of the machine and prevent operator manipulation errors, in particular with regard to the input of length information using the keyboard, it is possible to provide security means.

For example, to avoid the involuntary introduction of length information by accidentally pressing the keys of the keyboard, provision is made for the introduction of information This can only be done if a key, specially provided for this purpose, is pressed during the manipulation of the other keys.

Furthermore, since the machine is only designed to make piped openings the length of which is between a minimum length and a maximum length, it is possible to provide a safety system that does not allow the machine to be started if the length information entered into the storage means 31 and selected by the selection device 32 is greater than the above maximum length or less than the above minimum length.

Finally, the machine can be equipped with control means to check the correct progress, and in order, of the different operating phases, these control means being arranged to stop the machine in the event of an error, for example when the fingers notches 11, 15 are not mounted to cut the ends of the opening or when these fingers are mounted, but have not come down.

Of course, other security systems can be provided by those skilled in the art depending on specific requirements.

Claims (13)

1. Machine for manufacturing piped openings in a piece of fabric or the like, characterized in that it comprises control means arranged so as to make it manufacture, according to a pre-established and cyclical sequence, a succession of piped openings having different lengths respectively through a succession of unique and identical manual start-up operations. 2. Machine according to claim 1, characterized in that the control means comprise: - input means for initially introducing and according to the pre-established sequence of information concerning the lengths of the various piped openings to be manufactured, storage means for storing all the length information entered, selection means combined with storage means so as to successively select according to the pre-established sequence the lengths of the piped openings to be manufactured, - And control means slaved to the selection means for, once the machine is started, controlling the length of movement of cutting, stitching and notching members, as a function of the selected length. 3. Machine according to claim 2, characterized in that the selection means are arranged to select the first length introduced into the storage means once the manufacture of the piped opening having the last length introduced into the storage means. 4. Machine according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that display means are provided for displaying the length of the opening selected by the selection means. 5. Machine according to claim 4, characterized in that that the display means are arranged to display the order number, in the sequence performed, of the opening corresponding to the selected length. 6. Machine according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the input means are constituted by a keyboard with keys. 7. Machine according to claims 4 or 5 and claim 6, characterized in that the keypad and the display means are grouped in a common housing, accessible from outside the machine. 8. Machine according to any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the control means include: first control means for controlling the length of the movement of the piece of fabric under the cutting and stitching members, - And second control means for controlling the position of that of the two locking fingers which is movable. 9. Machine according to claim 8, characterized in that the first and second control means each comprise detector means for detecting the instantaneous position of a mobile element undergoing the movement to be checked, comparator means for comparing said instantaneous position to the predetermined length selected by the selection means, and stop control means for stopping the movement in progress when the length traveled by the movable element is equal to the above selected length. 10. Machine according to claim 9, characterized in that the detector means comprise a movable transparent rule provided with opaque graduations and a transmitter and a radiation receiver fixedly arranged on either side of the graduated rule. 11. Machine according to claim 10, characterized in that the transparent rule of the detector means comprised by the first control means is integral with a movable table for driving the piece of fabric and in that the transparent rule of the detector means included by the second control means is integral with a drive cylinder for the support of the movable notching finger. 12. Machine according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that counting means are provided for counting the pulses delivered by the radiation receiver when the graduations of the rule intercept the radiation. 13. Machine according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the radiation used is infrared radiation.

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