US3763802A

US3763802A - Pocket welting machine

Info

Publication number: US3763802A
Application number: US00209099A
Authority: US
Inventors: R Champney; Keen L Mc; L Breck
Original assignee: Farah Manufacturing Co Inc
Current assignee: Farah Manufacturing Co Inc
Priority date: 1971-12-17
Filing date: 1971-12-17
Publication date: 1973-10-09
Anticipated expiration: 1990-10-09

Abstract

A welt forming machine has been provided which is a combination comprising: a sewing machine including a looper, a needle bar and a stop motion means for a sewing machine needle bar; feed means for feeding work piece for said sewing machine including means for varying the rate of feeding of said feed means independently of a rate of sewing, said feed means feedingly urging a work piece transversely to said sewing machine between a first feed and a second feed position; means for clamping a work piece onto said feed means and operatively interconnected with said feed means; means for holding a welt-defining work piece operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping, said holding means transversely depending from said sewing machine; means for folding said welt-defining work piece operatively interconnected with said feed means and said clamping means and articulatingly interconnected with said clamping means; means for center cutting said work pieces operatively interconnected with said sewing machine and said feed means between said first and second feed position; means for engaging said stop motion means; means for engaging an upper thread of said sewing machine upon completion of sewing of said work pieces; means for cutting said upper thread operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread; means for indexing said feed means; means for end cutting said work pieces operatively interconnected with said means for indexing said feed means; and means for returning said feed means to said first feed position-by means of the above combination, weltings such as encountered in pants back pockets, button holes, etc. are produced.

Description

United States Patent [191 Champney et al.

[111 3,763,802 1451 Oct. 9, 1973 POCKET WELTING MACHINE [73] Assignee: Farah Manufacturing Company,

Inc., El Paso, Tex.

[22] Filed; Dec. 17, 1971 21' Appl. No.: 209,099

Primary Examiner-Werner H. Schroeder Attorney-Fred A. Keire et al.

[57] ABSTRACT A welt forming machine has been provided which is a combination comprising: a sewing machine including a looper, a needle bar and a stop motion means for a sewing machine needle bar; feed means for feeding work piece for said sewing machine including means for varying the rate of feeding of said feed means independently of a rate of sewing, said feed means feedingly urging a work piece transversely to said sewing machine between a first feed and a second feed position; means for clamping a work piece onto said feed means and operatively interconnected with said feed means; means for holding a welt-defining work piece operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping, said holding means transversely depending from said sewing machine; means for folding said welt-defining work piece operatively interconnected with said feed means and said clamping meansand articulatingly interconnected with said clamping means; means for center cutting said work pieces operatively interconnected with said sewing machine and said feed means between said first and second feed position; means for engaging said stop motion means; means for engaging an upper thread of said sewing machine upon completion of sewingof said work pieces; means for cutting said upper thread operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread; means for indexing said feed means; means for end cutting said work pieces operatively interconnected with said means 'for indexing said feed means; and means for returning said feed means to said first feed positionby means of the above combination, weltings such as encountered in pants back pockets, button holes, etc. are produced.

51 Claims, 19 Drawing Figures PATENTEUHBT 9W 3.763.802

sum 01 or n NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN EEEEEEEEEEEEEE E N L LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL r.

TTTTTT EY PATEN [H] [NIT '9 I975 m 02 or n PATENTEDUBI ems sum- 03 or n PATENTED HUT 9 I975 sum on nr17 SMN PATENTEUDCT 9197s SHEET 050$ 17 NmN wNN 'PATENTEUBET ems sum um 11;

PATENTED OCT 75 SHEU 08 0F 17 m QE 7// 0mm SN mmm wmw mm 120F17 PATENTEDUBT m PAIENTEUOU emu sum 13 ur17 s @ww Wm NN hm J nww/ 4 4 mm. 1 lA wmw NR wmw y PATENTEU 9 sum 15 or 17 POCKET WELTING MACHINE This invention pertains to a welting machine; more particularly, this invention pertains to a novel machine by which welting of a pants back pocket or similar garment opening welting is achieved.

THE PRIOR ART In the art of welting garment openings such as pocket openings and button holes, the commonly employed machine has been the Reece Pocket Welting Machine described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,555,095; 2,529,072; 2,573,359, and 2,604,062. An improvement in the method of controlling this prior art machine has also been disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,572,266 to Rodney W. Champney. However, the various improvements which have been sought as means to overcome the limitations of the Reece Pocket Welting Machine have, for the most part, involved merely modifications in the circuitry or component parts or modifications in the mode of operation of the prior art machine.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, a machine for welting a back pocket on pants or button holes has been discovered which represents an improvement over the prior art machines and methods such as illustrated in the above-mentioned patents. The present machine achieves the welting operation not only in a simpler manner but also with considerably fewer elements in the sewing machine-welting machine combination. Moreover, means for controllingthe present machine, in combination with machine elements, are

simpler and represent a considerable improvement over the prior art means. References herein are made to copending companion applications Ser. No. 128,831, filed Mar. 29, 1971, and Ser. No. 157,842, filed June 29, I971, which disclose a needle bar stop motion device employed with this machine; the stop motion or the needle bar positioning device which has been disclosed in the afore-mentioned applications finds a number of uses outside the combination herein. In respect to the feed section further described herein, a companion application Ser. No. 195,240, filed Nov.

7 3, 1971, now U.S. Pat. No. 3,736,894, discloses feed means employed herein which also find use outside the combination herein. Pertinent parts of the needle bar stop motion device and the feed means will be described herein in more detail and will provide for a complete understanding of the present invention.

With reference to the previously mentioned U.S. Pat. No. 3,572,266, in this patent there has been disclosed the work piece used in the production of a welted back pocket opening, the sequence of operations performed on the work pieces, and how the work sequence is accomplished in a Reece pocket swewing machine.

As the finished product is the same during the work sequence when made by the prior art devices or by the present device, the description of the work piece will be based on the last-mentioned patent. Obviously, reference can be made to this or the other mentioned patents which describe the work piece production cycle.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION For a more complete description of the invention and in reference to Figures wherein:

FIG. 2 shows a side view the welting machine de-- picted in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 shows in partial top view the movable work feed plte shown in FIGS; 1 and 2;

FIG. 4 illustrates in partial cross-section the work feed plate depicted in FIG. 3 and the means for indexing the work feed plate for positioning the same over the end cut knives;

FIG. 5 illustrates in a front view the head of the sewing machine shown in FIG. I, including the presser foot thereof;

FIG. 6 illustrates, in cross-section, the presser foot block shown in FIG. 5, including the thread pick-up fingers and means for operating the same;

FIG. 7 illustrates the interconnecting lever means between the center cut knives and the work feed plate;

FIG. 8 illustrates a lever action of the lever shown in FIG. 7 as cammingly operating the center cut knife;

FIG. 9 is a side elevational view, partly in section, illustrating the configuration of the transmission system of the present invention during reciprocation of the needle bar;

FIG. I0 is a side elevational view, similar to FIG. 9, illustrating the configuration of the transmission system when the needle bar is held in its raised position;

FIG. 11 is an exploded perspective view of the components of the device in the configuration illustrated in FIG. 9;

FIG. 12 is an exloded perspective view of the components of the device when in the configuration of FIG. 10;

FIG. 13 is a schematic illustration of the resultant stitch pattern produced by the work feed plate and speed regulator of the present invention;

FIG. 14 is a schematic side view of one embodiment of the work feed plate and speed regulator of the present invention, in the first position of the plunger;

FIG. 15 is a schematic view similar to FIG. 14 of another embodiment of the present invention illustrating the position of the plunger after the initiation of movement of the work feed plate from its first to its second position;

FIG. 16 is a schematic illustration similar to FIG. 15 illustrating the configuration of the plunger just prior to the work feed plate and plunger achieving their respective second positions;

FIG. 17 is an illustration of the configuration of the plunger with respect to the cylinder at the second position of the plunger and the work feed plate; and

FIG. 18 illustrates a fluidic logic control means employed in conjunction with back pressure, machineelement sensors for controlling andoperating the machine depicted in FIG. 1;

FIG. 19 illustrates another fluidic logic control means employed in conjunction with back pressure, machineelement and sewing operation sensors for controlling and operating the machine depicted in FIG. 1.

In refernece to FIG. l and a brief description of the particular component parts of the present device, the welting machine 5 is placed on a stand 10 and consists of work feed plate 11 which rides on rails 12; the rails 12 are rigidly affixed to the sewing machine 14. A presser foot 16 is placed longitudinally along the axis of the work feed plate and perpendicularly against the head of the sewing machine 14. The presser foot 16 contains a center cut knife section designated as 17 as it is used for pocket welting. A needle bar 87 has attached thereto two needles 65, only one of which is shown in the Figures. A sewing machine base 19 to which the rails 12 are rigidly affixed rests on channel members 18 rigidly affixed to the stand 10.

The upper thread holders (not shown) are each holding a spool (not shown) for each of the needles 65; the thread holders have corresponding thread tensioners and thread guides attached thereto as is common in the Reece sewing machine for the upper thread tension control means. These means will not be described in any detail as a reference can be readily made to the previously mentioned patents for the understanding and functioning of these means or to other patents in the sewing machine arts.

Underneath the work feed plate 11 and slightly left of the sewing machine is placed the end knife section 26. On top of the work feed plate 11 are placed a pair of clamps 27 as well as a pair of folder arms 56. The

feed control section has been indicated as 20.

Attached directly to the sewing machine 14 is the sewing machine motor 37 (not shown in FIG. 1, shown in FIG. It may also be attached to the stand 10 by appropriate means, and the sewing machine 14 may be driven by a belt. At the other end of the stand 10 and protruding upwardly are two spacers 36 which hold the rails I2. Rails 12 have been rigidly affixed to the sewing machine base 19 as well. Suitable pneumatic fluid source used for the various control cylinders or pistons associated with this machine is introduced by means'of a conduit 39 (not shown). A master power switch 40 (not shown) has also been provided. Similarly, a foot pedal 41 (not shown but described in conjunction with FIG. 18) which the operator activates is conveniently placed at the sewing machine end of the stand. When operating the machine, an operator sits at the machine facing the right side of the machine and at the end of rails 12.

Work feed plate 11 rides in the rails 12 and is positioned in grooves 47 by appropriate roller bearings 48 (of sufficient number) as shown in FIG. 7 which are attached to work feed plate 11 and ride protrudingly in grooves 47. On the top of the work feed plate 11 are placed the above-mentioned clamps 27 attached to a clamp pivot post 49 conveniently spaced apart by clamp spacer 61. Clamps 27 are being lifted upwardly or urged downwardly by a double acting cylinder 51 which pivots on cylinder pivot plate 54 which plate is positioned between clamp lift posts 50 via an appropriate shaft 53. Clamps 27 are attached to clamp lift plate 52 which in turn is attached to the cylinder 51. A pair of folder arms 56 are placed interiorly to the clamps 27. These folder arms 56 are placed on the transverse folder arm rest plate 59 and are articulated by cylinders 57 (not shown in FIG. 1, shown in FIGS. 2 and 3) affixed rigidly to cylinder mounting posts 60, each of which is attached to one of the clamp arms 27. Thus the folder arms 56 move inwardly and outwardly when activated by cylinders 57 and upwardly and downwardly with clamps 27 when activated by cylinder 51. The folder anns 56 urge a welting patch into a folded position about presser foot 16 with springs 56a (shown in FIG. 3) when the feeder plate 11 is in its forwardmost position, as described hereinafter. A folder arm back pressure pneumatic sensor 58 and 58a placed in sensor block 58b on rest plate 49b senses the in and out positions, respectively, of the folder arms.

The sensing of machine elements by means of a pneumatic back pressure has been described in application Ser. No. 44,772, filed June 9, 1970, in the name of L. William Breck, Jr., and assigned to the same assignee as the present application and incorporated by reference herein.

As an optional item, at the outer edge of work feed plate 11 is a spring-like pocket clamp 21, activated by pocket clamp cylinder 22. When cylinder 11 extends the spring pocket clamp 21 and positions thereby clamp shank 21a in the slim part of the spring 2112 under clamp holder 24, a pocket having been placed on work feed plate I1 is thereby removably engaged with work feed plate I1 and the outer garment component, i.e., a pant leg then placed over the pocket and under clamps 27.

The presser foot which has been previously identified as 16 is an inverted T-shaped device which has a center knife slot 62 extending into the vertical section of the T in which the center cut knife 63 fits. Needles 65, one each on each side of the center knife slot 62, in turn are positioned in needle apertures 64 in the presser foot 16. The presser foot 16 in turn is attached to the sewing machine head 14 via presser foot block 68 to post 66 and activated upwardly and downwardly by presser foot cylinder 67 and uided downwardly and upwardly by guide rods 69 which are attached to presser foot 16 and which rods slide in presser foot post 66. Cylinder 67 is fixedly attached to post 66, and its rod 67a is attached to block 68.

An appropriate back pressure sensor 70 mounted on one of the guide rods 69 signals the down position of the presser foot when the back pressure sensor post 700 closes the back pressure sensor port opening 70b; the two positions are indicated by the phantom lines in FIG. 5.

The presser foot block 68, in two recessed channels 73, as shown in FIGS. 1, 5 and 6, carries a reciprocally activatable rectangular frame 76 to which frame is attached at the sewing machine end thereof a hookended thread pick-up finger 72, one each for each needle 65; the thread pick-up fingers are placed in a thread pick-up finger block 74. A pneumatic piston 77 placed interiorly in said presser foot block 68 upon conclusion of the sewing operation moves forwardly and engages threads 78 with pick-up fingers 72 from each of the needles and holds these back so that these may be cut by moving the same against knives 78a, one each for each of the needles such as when the work feed plate 1 l is indexed in its next position for operating the end knives. The piston 77 has been indicated in crosssection in the presser foot block 68 in FIG. 6, including the pneumatic fluid port 77a, the spring 77b, and rod 770 which is attached to block 74.

The center cut knive 63 is activated by a knife cam 79. The mechanism for positioning the knife 63 is different from the Reece pocket welting machine and is illustrated in FIGS. 7 and 9 herein. Thus, the knife cam post 80 is pendant from the sewing machine and has attached thereto a knife cam pivot point 81; further, the knife cam 79 has a stud 79a protruding into an eye a of a knife cam lever 85 attached to the side of the sewing machine 14. Lever 85 is urged upwardly by means of spring 84. At the lower end of lever 85 there is mounted a cam follower roller bearing 84a which fol-

Claims

1. In a garment welt forming machine, the combination comprising: a sewing machine; feed means extending transversely of said sewing machine; means for moving said feed means between a first and a second feed position with respect to said sewing machine; means for clamping a first and second work piece in superimposed relation onto said feed means and being operatively interconnected with said feed means; means for holding a third work piece in superimposed relation with respect to said first and second workpieces, said holding means being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping; means for folding said third work piece about said holding means; means for initiating sewing of said sewing machine for sewing said second and third work piece to said first work piece along a stitching path as said feed means is moved between said first and second feed positions; means for cutting said first, second and third work pieces along a cutting path adjacent to said stitching path, said cutting means being operativelyinterconnected with said sewing machine and said feed means between said first and second feed positions; means for indexing said feed means between said second feed position and a third index position; means at said third index position for end cutting said first, second and third work pieces at the ends of said cutting path; said end cutting means being operatively interconnected with said means for indexing said feed means.

2. The machine as defined in claim 1 and including means for ejecting the sewn together work pieces after cutting by said end cutting means.

3. The machine as defined in claim 1 and including means for controlling the operatioN of said machine.

4. The machine as defined in claim 3 and including fluidic control means for controlling the sequence of operation of said machine.

5. The machine as defined in claim 3 and including fluidic control means for automatic cycling of the sequence of operation of said machine.

6. In a welt forming machine, the combination comprising: a sewing machine including a needle bar and a stop motion means for the needle bar; feed means for feeding a work piece for said sewing machine including means for varying the rate of feeding of said feed means independently of a rate of sewing, said feed means feedingly urging a work piece transversely to said sewing machine between a first feed and a second feed position whereby said sewing machine forms a stitching path along the work piece; means for clamping a first and a second work piece in superimposed relation onto said feed means and being operatively interconnected with said feed means; means for holding a third work piece in superimposed relation with respect to said first and second work pieces said holding means being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping and transversely depending from said sewing machine; means for folding said third work piece about said holding means, said folding means being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said clamping means and articulatingly interconnected with said clamping means; means for cutting said first, second and third work pieces along a cutting path adjacent to said stitching path, said cutting means being operatively interconnected with said needle bar of said sewing machine and said feed means between said first and second feed position; means for engaging said stop motion means; means for engaging an upper thread of said sewing machine upon completion of sewing of said first and second and third work pieces; means for cutting said upper thread operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread; means for indexing said feed means between said second feed position and a third index position; means at said third index position for end cutting said first second and third work pieces at the ends of said cutting path, said end cutting means being operatively interconnected with said means for indexing said feed means.

7. The machine as defined in claim 6 and including control means for controlling the sequence of operation of said machine.

8. The machine as defined in claim 7 and wherein the control means are fluidic control means.

9. The machine as defined in claim 8 including back pressure sensor means for detecting the presence of said feed means in said index position, said fluidic control means being responsive to said back pressure sensor means for automatically controlling operation of said machine.

10. The machine as defined in claim 9 and wherein wall attachment fluidic control means are said fluidic control means.

11. The machine as defined in claim 9 and wherein impact modulators are said fluidic control means.

12. In a garment welt forming machine, the combination comprising: a sewing machine; feed means extending transversely of said sewing machine; means for moving said feed means between a first and a second feed position; means for clamping a work piece onto said feed means and being operatively interconnected with said feed means; means for holding a welt defining work piece in superimposed relation on said work piece and being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping; means for folding said welt defining work piece; means for initiating sewing of said sewing machine for sewing said welt defining work piece to said work piece along a stitching path as said feed means is moved between said first and second feed positions; means for cutting said work pieces along a cutting path adjacent to said stitching path, said cutting means being operatively interconnected with said sewing machine and said feed means between said first and second feEd positions; means for indexing said feed means between said second feed position and a third index position; means at said third position for end cutting said work pieces at the ends of said cutting path, said end cutting means being operatively interconnected with said means for indexing said feed means; means for further indexing to a fourth index position said work feed plate; means for inverting said welt defining path; and means for returning said feed means to said feed position.

13. The machine as defined in claim 12 and wherein said feed means for said sewing machine comprise a work feed plate reciprocating between said first and said second feed positions at varying speeds in a predetermined sequence; said means for moving said feed means comprises means operably connected to said work feed plate for applying a uniform force to said feed plate to move the feed plate between said first and said second positions; and means for variably resisting movement of said feed plate in accordance with said predetermined sequence to vary the speed of movement of said feed plate from said first to said second position, said resisting means including a hydraulic control cylinder having at least two ports therein, a fluid reservoir in communication with said cylinder through said ports, and plunger means in said cylinder operatively connected to said feed plate and cooperating with fluid in said cylinder for resisting movement of said feed plate by said force applying means and for sequentially returning fluid in said reservoir from said cylinder as said feed plate is moved from its first to its second position by said force applying means, initially through only one of said ports, then through both ports, and finally through only said one port whereby movement of said feed plate is variably resisted and said feed plate is moved faster between said first and second positions of said feed plate when fluid is returned to said reservoir through both of said ports than when fluid is returned to said reservoir through only said one port during the initial and final portions of movement of said feed plate.

14. The feed means as defined in claim 13 wherein said reservoir is connected to said cylinder ports by independent conduit means, and said conduit means include restrictions therein resisting fluid flow therethrough.

15. The feed means as defined in claim 13 including check valve means interconnecting said reservoir to said cylinder for permitting free flow of fluid therethrough from said reservoir to said cylinder as said feed plate is returned by said force applying means from its second to its first position.

16. The feed means defined in claim 15 wherein said plunger comprises a pair of spaced, operatively interconnected pistons defining a first fluid chamber therebetween in said cylinder, said plunger being moved with said feed plate by the force applying means from a first to a second position corresponding to the first and second positions of said feed plate to selectively close said one port at the initial and final portions of movement of said feed plate.

17. The machine as defined in claim 12 and including means for ejecting the sewn together work pieces after cutting by said end cutting means.

18. The machine as defined in claim 12 and including a stop motion means for said sewing machine.

19. The machine as defined in claim 12 and including means for controlling the sequence of operation of the machine.

20. The machine as defined in claim 19 and including fluidic control means for controlling the sequence of operation of the machine.

21. The machine as defined in claim 19 and including fluidic control means for automatic cycling of the sequence of operation of the machine.

22. In a welt forming machine, the combination comprising: a sewing machine including a looper, a needle bar and a stop motion means for a sewing machine needle bar; feed means for feeding a work piece for said sewing machine including means for varying the rate of feeding of saiD feed means independently of a rate of sewing, said feed means feedingly urging a work piece transversely to said sewing machine between a first feed and a second feed position whereby said sewing machine forms a stitching path along the work piece; means for clamping a work piece onto said feed means and operatively interconnected with said feed means; means for holding a welt-defining work piece in superimposed relation with respect to the first mentioned work piece, said holding means being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping, said holding means transversely depending from said sewing machine; means for folding said welt-defining work piece operatively interconnected with said feed means and said clamping means and articulatingly interconnected with said clamping means; means for cutting said work pieces along a cutting path adjacent to said stitching path, said cutting means being operatively interconnected with said sewing machine and said feed means between said first and second feed position; means for engaging and disengaging said stop motion means; means for engaging an upper thread of said sewing machine upon completion of sewing of said work pieces; means for cutting said upper thread operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread; means for indexing said feed means between said second position and a third index position; means at said third index position for end cutting said work pieces at the ends of said cutting path, said end cutting means being operatively interconnected with said means for indexing said feed means.

23. The machine as defined in claim 22 wherein said needle bar is mounted in said sewing machine for movement between upper and lower positions with respect to said looper and wherein said stop motion means include a first lever pivotally mounted in said sewing machine and pivotally connected to said needle bar for transmitting reciprocating motion thereto, rotary drive means, a crank pivotally connected at one end to said rotary drive means, and a pitman pivotally connected between said crank and said first lever whereby rotary motion of said drive means is transmitted through said crank, pitman and lever to reciprocate said needle bar between said upper and lower positions, second lever means pivotally mounted in said sewing machine, means for moving said second lever between first and second positions and a control link pivotally connected at one end to said second lever and at its other end to said crank arm at the pivotal connection between said crank arm and said pitman, said second lever and said control link cooperating in the first position of said second lever to hold said pitman in a position substantially perpendicular to said first lever whereby the motion of said rotary drive means is transmitted to said first lever to reciprocate said needle bar, and in the second position of said second lever to hold said pitman in a position substantially in alignment with said first lever whereby said pitman idles under the influence of said drive means without transmitting motion to said first lever.

24. The machine as defined in claim 22 and wherein said feed means include a work feed plate for reciprocating the same between first and second positions at varying speeds in a predetermined sequence comprising means operably connected to said work feed plate for applying in a uniform force to said plate to move the plate between said first and said second positions and means for variably resisting movement of said plate in accordance with said predetermined sequence to vary the speed of movement of said plate from said first to said second position, said resisting means including a hydraulic control cylinder having at least two ports therein, a fluid reservoir in communication with said cylinder through said ports, and plunger means in said cylinder operatively connected to said plate and cooperating with fluid in said cylinder for resisting movement of said plate by said force applying Means and for sequentially returning fluid to said reservoir from said cylinder as said plate is moved from its first to its second position by said force applying means, initially through only one of said ports, then through both ports, whereby movement of said plate is variably resisted and said plate is moved faster between said first and second positions when fluid is returned to said reservoir through both of said ports than when fluid is returned to said reservoir through only said one port.

25. The machine as defined in claim 22 and including control means for controlling the sequence of operation of said machine.

26. The machine as defined in claim 25 and wherein the control means are fluidic control means.

27. The machine as defined in claim 25 including back pressure sensor means for detecting the presence of said feed means in said index position, said fluidic control means being responsive to said back pressure sensor means for automatically controlling operation of said machine.

28. The machine as defined in claim 25 and wherein the control means are wall attachment fluidic control means and back pressure sensor means.

29. The machine as defined in claim 25 and wherein impact modulators are said control means.

30. In a welt forming machine the combination comprising: a sewing machine including a motor therefor; a stop motion means for a sewing machine needle bar operatively interconnected with said motor; means for engaging and means for disengaging said stop motion means; means for synchronizing said means for engaging with said stop motion means for positioning said needle bar in an up-position in an inoperative sewing mode of said welt forming machine; feed means for feeding a work piece to said sewing machine including means for varying the rate of feeding of said feed means independently of a rate of sewing of said machine, said feed means being operatively interconnected with means for synchronizing said means for disengaging said stop motion means and means for sensing completion of sewing; means for clamping a first and a second work piece in superimposed relation onto said feed means, including means for initiating said clamping; means for holding a third work piece in superimposed relation with respect to said first and second work pieces, said holding means being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping, said holding means including means for sensing an operative position in engagement with said work piece and an inoperative position, said holding means depending from said sewing machine longitudinally with respect to said feed means and transversely from said sewing machine; means for folding said third work piece operatively interconnected with clamping means and means sensing said operative position of said means for holding said third work piece; means for initiating said means for disengaging said stop motion means and said means for synchronizing whereby said sewing machine is placed in an operative mode to sew said work pieces together along a stitching path; means for cutting said work pieces along a cutting path adjacent to said stitching path, said cutting means being operatively interconnected with said sewing machine and cammingly interconnected with said feed means during a movement thereof between first and second feed positions; means for sensing completion of sewing; means for engaging an upper thread of said sewing machine upon completion of sewing of said work pieces, said upper thread engaging means being operatively interconnected with (i) said means for sensing completion of sewing, (ii) said stop motion means for said sewing machine needle bar and (iii) said means for synchronizing said means for engaging said stop motion means; means for cutting said upper thread operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread and said feed means; means for indexing said feed means from said second position to a third position and being operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread and said means for sensing completion of sewing; means for end cutting said work pieces at the ends of said cutting path, said end cutting means being operatively interconnected with said means for indexing of said feed means, said indexing means including means for sensing a completion of an indexing of said feed means; and means for returning said feed means from said third position to said first feed position operatively interconnected with means for sensing a completion of operation of said means for end cutting of said work pieces.

31. The machine as defined in claim 30 and including means for ejecting the sewn together work pieces after cutting by said end cutting means.

32. The machine as defined in claim 30 and including means for securing said first work piece operatively interconnected with means for returning said feed means.

33. The machine as defined in claim 30 and wherein the means for returning said feed means include means for placing said welting machine in a ready-to-operate condition.

34. The machine as defined in claim 33 and wherein the means for placing said welting machine in a ready-to-operate condition includes means for raising said clamps, means for raising said means for holding said third work piece, means for engaging said stop motion means for said sewing machine, and means for returning said index means for indexing said feed means.

35. In a welt forming machine the combination comprising: a sewing machine; a needle bar, a looper, and a drive means therefor; a stop motion means for said needle bar; means for engaging and disengaging said needle bar and said looper and said stop motion means for said sewing machine needle bar including means for synchronizing said means for engaging said needle bar and said looper and said stop motion means for positioning said needle bar in an up-position in an inoperative sewing mode of said sewing machine; feed means for feeding a work piece to said sewing machine including means for varying the rate of feeding of said feed means independently of a rate of sewing of said sewing machine; means for sensing completion of sewing, said feed means being operatively interconnected with said means for synchronizing said means for engaging and disengaging said needle bar and said looper and said stop motion device and said means for sensing completion of sewing; means for clamping a work piece onto said feed means, including means for initiating said clamping; means for holding a welt-defining work piece superimposed on said first mentioned work piece, said holding means being operatively interconnected with said feed means and said means for clamping, said holding means including means for sensing an operative position and an inoperative position, said holding means depending from said sewing machine longitudinally with said feed means and transversely from said sewing machine; means for folding said welt-defining work piece operatively interconnected with clamping means and means sensing said holding position of said means for holding said welt-defining work piece; means for initiating said means for disengaging said needle bar and said looper and said means for synchronizing said stop motion means whereby said sewing machine is placed in an operative mode for sewing said work pieces together along a stitching path; means for cutting said work pieces along a cutting path adjacent to said stitching path being operatively interconnected with said sewing machine and cammingly interconnected with said feed means between first and second feed positions thereof; means for engaging an upper thread of said sewing machine upon completion of sewing of said work pieces operatively interconnected with (i) said means for sensing completion of sewing, (ii) said stop motion means for said sewing machine needle bar and (iii) said means for synchronizing said means for engaging said needle bar and looper and said stop motion means; means for cutting said upper thread operatively intercoNnected with said means for engaging upper thread and feed means; means for indexing said feed means from said second position to a third index position, said indexing means being operatively interconnected with said means for engaging said upper thread and said means for sensing completion of sewing; means for end cutting said work pieces at the ends of said cutting path and being operatively interconnected with said means for indexing of said feed means; said indexing means including means for sensing a completion of an indexing of said feed means; and means for returning said feed means to said first feed position; and operatively interconnected with said returning means for sensing a completion of operation of said means for end cutting of said work pieces.

36. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 35 and wherein the feed means for feeding a work piece to said sewing machine including the means for varying the feed means independently of a rate of sewing of said machine comprises: a work feed plate for supporting and moving said work piece to be sewn beneath the needle bar of said sewing machine and wherein the feed plate is mounted for reciprocal movement between first and second positions at varying speeds and in a predetermined sequence for varying the spacing between stitches sewn into the work piece, means for reciprocating the plate at varying speeds comprising a ram operatively connected to said feed plate for applying a uniform force thereto to move the feed plate between said first to said second positions and means for variably resisting movement of said feed plate in accordance with said predetermined sequence to vary the speed of movement of said feed plate from said first to said second position and thereby vary said stitch spacing, including a hydraulic control cylinder having at least first and second ports therein, a plunger in said cylinder operatively connected to said work feed plate for movement therewith under the influence of said ram between first and second positions corresponding respectively to the first and second positions of said feed plate, said plunger having first and second spaced operatively interconnected pistons defining a first fluid chamber in said cylinder, a reservoir, independent conduit means respectively connecting said reservoir to said ports, said first ports being located for communication with said first chamber and said second port being located for communication with a second fluid chamber defined by said first piston and one end of said cylinder, said first piston having at least one bleed bore therein to provide communication between said first and second chambers for equalizing fluid pressure therein and said pistons cooperating with fluid in said cylinder for resisting movement of said feed plate by said ram in accordance with said predetermined sequence, said first piston closing said first port in the first position thereof and forcing fluid in said second chamber through said second port during initial movement of said plunger from its first to its second position and opening said first port to said first chamber after said initial movement, movement of said second piston thereafter forcing fluid in said second chamber through said first port to said reservoir, while movement of said first piston continues to force fluid to said reservoir through said port, thereby decreasing the resistance to movement of said plate, said second piston thereafter being moved into position to close said first port as said plunger approaches its second position while said first piston continues to force fluid to said reservoir through said second port, whereby the speed of movement of said feed plate is sequentially varied to provide relatively small spacing between stitches at the beginning and ends of movement of said plate from its first to its second position and wider spacing between stitches at the intermediate portion of said movement.

37. The feed means for said sewing machine as defined in claim 36 and wherein said condUits have fluid flow restrictors therein.

38. The feed means for said sewing machine as defined in claim 37 and wherein said ram is a double acting ram adapted to return said feed plate from its second to its first position.

39. The feed means for said sewing machine as defined in claim 38 and wherein one of said conduits includes a conduit portion by passing the flow restrictor therein and a check valve in said bypass permitting free return of fluid in said reservoir to said cylinder as said feed plate and plunger are returned from their second to their first positions.

40. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 35 wherein said needle bar is mounted in said sewing machine for movement between upper and lower positions with respect to said looper, a first lever pivotally mounted in said sewing machine and pivotally connected to said needle bar for transmitting reciprocating motion thereto, rotary drive means, a crank pivotally connected at one end to said rotary drive means, and a pitman pivotally connected between said crank and said first lever whereby rotary motion of said drive means is transmitted through said crank, pitman and lever to reciprocate said needle bar between said upper and lower positions, second lever means pivotally mounted in said sewing machine, means for moving said second lever between first and second positions and a control link pivotally connected at one end to said second lever and at its other end to said crank arm at the pivotal connection between said crank arm and said pitman, said second lever and said control link cooperating in the first position of said second lever to hold said pitman in a position substantially perpendicular to said first lever whereby the motion of said rotary drive means is transmitted to said first lever to reciprocate said needle bar, and in the second position of said second lever to hold said pitman in a position substantially in alignment with said first lever whereby said pitman idles under the influence of said drive means without transmitting motion to said first lever.

41. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 35 including gate means for preventing movement of said second lever from said first to said second position thereof until said crank arm, pitman and first lever has achieved a relative configuration due to the rotational motion of said drive means corresponding to the raised position of said needle bar.

42. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 41 and wherein said gate means comprises a cam plate positioned in path along which said point of connection between the crank arm and the pitman travels as said second lever moves between its first and second positions.

43. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 42 including means operably connected between said first lever and said looper for transmitting motion therebetween to oscillate said looper.

44. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 43 including stop means defining the limits of movement of said second lever between said first and second positions.

45. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 43 and wherein said cam plate is pivotally mounted in said machine and means operably connected between said second lever and said cam plate for moving said cam plate into said path of travel as said second lever is moved to its second position.

46. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 45 and wherein said cam plate moving means comprises a meshed pair of quadrant gears respectively connected to said cam plate and said second lever.

47. The welt forming machine as defined in claim 46 including a spring biased cam follower located at the pivotal connection between said crank and said pitman, said cam plate having a first cam surface adapted to be engaged by said cam follower to prevent movement of said second lever from said first to said second position thereof until said crank arm, pitman and first lever arm have achieved a relative configuration due to the rotational motion of said drive means corresponding to the raised position of said needle bar, and a second cam surface for moving said cam follower against its spring bias as said second lever is moved from its second to its first position to permit said cam follower and cam plate to move relative to each other as said cam follower is moved out of said path of travel by said quadrant gears.

48. The machine as defined in claim 35 and wherein the means for returning said feed means include means for placing said welting machine in a ready-to-operate condition.

49. The machine as defined in claim 35 and wherein the means for placing said welting machine in a ready-to-operate condition includes means for raising said clamps, means for raising said means for holding said welt-defining work piece, means for engaging said needle bar and said loopers and said stop for synchronizing means, and means for returning said index means for indexing said feed means.

50. In a welt forming machine for garments and the like, the combination comprising: a sewing machine including a needle bar, a looper, and drive means therefor; a stop motion means for said sewing machine needle bar; means for engaging and means for disengaging said stop motion means; means for synchronizing said means for engaging said stop motion means and said stop motion means for positioning said needle bar in an up-position in an inoperative sewing mode of said sewing machine; means for synchronizing said stop motion means and said means for disengaging said stop motion means for placing in an operative sewing mode said sewing machine; work feed plate for feeding a work piece to said sewing machine, whereby said sewing machine sews the work piece along a stitch path, said work feed plate including a cam land, a pair of spaced apart rails athwart of said sewing machine for guiding said work plate, a power stroking cylinder for reciprocating said work feed plate, restraint means for restraining said power stroke of said power stroking cylinder in a predetermined manner for varying the rate of feeding of said work feed plate independently of a rate of sewing of said sewing machine; means for rendering inoperative said restraint means during an inoperative mode of sewing by said sewing machine; an index cylinder for indexing of said work feed plate after completion of said sewing including means for interconnecting said index cylinder to said feed plate in a predetermined position in an operative mode of sewing by said sewing machine; a pair of clamps and a pivot point for said clamps affixed to said work feed plate for reciprocally upwardly and downwardly articulating said clamps; a pair of folder arms interiorly to said clamps and supportingly and articulatingly interconnected to said clamps; a cylinder for each of said folder arms for inwardly and outwardly reciprocating each of said folder arms; a presser foot for said sewing machine athwartingly and operatively interconnected with said sewing machine; a pair of knives each for cutting an upper thread of said sewing machine; a pair of thread pickup fingers longitudinally interconnected with said presser foot including a cylinder for said pickup fingers for extending said pickup fingers for engagement with said upper thread of said sewing machine and for cuttingly holding said thread against said knife upon completion of said operative mode of sewing by said sewing machine; a cylinder for said presser foot for upwardly and downwardly reciprocating said presser foot for including said thread pickup fingers; a center cut knife operatively pivotingly interconnected to said sewing machine needle bar including a knife cam follower integral with said center cut knife and a spring for said center cut knife, a cam for said center cut knife articulatingly affixed to said sewing machine; a cam follower interconnected to said cam land on said work feed plate and said cam for said center cut knife for articulatingly positioning in a predetermined manner said cam for said center cut knife whereby saiD center cut knife cuts said work piece along a cutting path adjacent to said stitch path during sewing by said machine; a pair of end cut knives including a bar for holding each of said end cut knives spacedly and predeterminatingly apart and a cylinder for urging said bar upwardly operatively interconnected with said work feed plate, said index cylinder, said clamp, and said folder arms to cut said work piece at the ends of said cutting path upon completion of sewing by said machine.

51. The welting machine as defined in claim 50 and wherein said work feed plate includes a flexible spring, a necked down portion on said spring, a holder for said spring, a cylinder attached to said spring for operative engagement of said spring, said holder of said spring and said work feed plate, whereby a work piece is placed under said spring when said necked down portion of said spring is in said holder and said work piece is held against said work feed plate when said cylinder removes said necked down portion of said spring from said holder.