DE19933902A1 - Skin-compatible cosmetic compositions containing mother of pearl and ascorbic acid to avoid the use of allergenic (petro)chemically-derived agents - Google Patents

Abstract

The effective agents in a cosmetic composition comprise 30% mother of pearl and 5% ascorbic acid ('ascorbin'), together with 65% of eg creams, oils, water or powders.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic formulations, mother-of-pearl, ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and other ingredients, as well as their use.

Cosmetics have been used for millennia not only for the external beautification, but also as a care. In addition, cosmetics always means to visible, smellable and tactile ways of meeting the world and fellow human beings. This type of encounter has to do with the respective understanding of the world and the derivable image of man. The Cosmetics is connected with religions and cultural circles, even more so it reflects the Basic conditions, as well as the technical possibilities of humans.

While until the end of the Middle Ages, medicine and cosmetics considered as one unit were made by the knowledge gain in many areas of independence, too in cosmetics.

So, above all, the rise of chemistry for cosmetics is of particular importance. These At the present time, it supplies the substances that were scarcely or only in the past centuries were available to a lesser degree. So it is with today's cosmetic Means also products that are harmless to health and none Represent "secret recipes". Today's cosmetics must be completely due to the law be harmless and should not pollute the environment as possible.

Cosmetic products are substances or preparations of substances intended to externally with the different parts of the human body, ie the skin, Hair system, nails, lips and intimate regions or the teeth and the Mucous membranes of the oral cavity to come into contact, and indeed to the exclusive or predominant purpose, to cleanse, perfume, change their appearance and / or to influence the body odor and / or to protect it or in good To maintain state.  

Thus, the skin serves as one of the main carriers for the cosmetic products. She practices as The largest sensory organ of man has many vital functions. in the On average, an adult has a skin surface of 1.8 square meters and a skin weight of about 8 to 12% of body weight. In addition to their protective function against environmental influences the skin is involved in various metabolic, storage and regulatory processes of the skin Body involved. It provides both mechanical protection against pressure, shock and Shear forces, as well as it provides protection against UV rays. It also serves the immune defense, thermoregulation and perform perceptual and social functions.

So cosmetic products for the skin of the cleaning, the sweat inhibition of Deodorization, UV protection or as a make-up. Other modes of action for the skin are Moisture regulation, skin swelling, anti-wrinkle effect, skin tolerance increase or efficacy against blemishes. Besides, they should have an invigorating feeling youthful appearance or an improved tugor effect.

In addition to skin care, hair is also crucial. The Cleaning the hair and scalp of the body's own fat, Hautabschilferungen, Dirt and odors from the environment and possibly from residues of others Hair treatment products meet a basic human need. To the cosmetic Means for hair treatment include shampoos and hair care products. The Human hair, if there is no pathological change, is opposite to that of it Not to improve the given state of nature. It is considered a steadily renewable part of Skin not only intended for indefinite shelf life. This is clearly evident in the case of Comparison of the newly regrown hair with the possibly already several Months old hair tips. During the part of the hair near the scalp shows a completely intact, almost closed cuticle layer, has the same hair increasing distance from the scalp a weakening, in extreme cases even the complete loss of cuticle on. The main reason for this quality loss of hair are the influence of sunlight, mechanical stresses through intensive combing or brushing and unavoidable side reactions in chemical Processes in the course of hair deformations, hair dyes and in particular Blondierungen. A goal of the hair care is therefore, the natural state of the fresh regrown hair over as long a period as possible and in case to restore his loss. Silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, Smooth feeling are considered characteristics for natural healthy hair. As a hair product is today denotes a variety of products, their main representatives Pre-treatment, hair lotions and hair care are.  

Among the cosmetic substances that are used include the Vitamins. They play a major role in today's cosmetic industry both in the hair cosmetic preparations as well as in vitamin creams for skin oils, facial masks and Lipsticks.

The F-series vitamins, such as vitamin F ethyl ester or F-glycerol ester, become used for example in skin oils, facial masks or lipsticks. That in alcohol soluble vitamin F is added as an additive in an amount of 1 to 3 wt .-% for cosmetic Preparation used in skin creams and hair lotions. Vitamin F as a free essential Fatty acid is mixed with a content of 1 to 3 wt .-% cosmetic preparations. Pure Vitamin F is water and alcohol soluble and is used in facial lotions, hair lotions or acne preparations used.

Synthesized vitamins such as vitamin KS have fungistatic and bacteriostatic effects and are used in hair care products. Vitamin H is also in Haircare products of various kinds used as well as in other body care products used.

β-carotene, which is also used as so-called provitamin A in the cosmetic industry is used in the production of hair care products and in the regulation of Sebaceous gland activity. It is additionally used in case of deficiency symptoms of the epidermis used in cosmetic preparations.

Vitamin K3 has fungistatic and bacteriostatic effects and is used for Hair care products recommended.

Vitamin E (D, L-α-tocopherol) serves as an antioxidant in oil and fat containing preparations. Vitamin E acetate (D, L-α-tocopherol acetate) is used in remedies Skin perfusion and tightening of the subcellular tissue used. It is in the form of Creams, oils and bath preparations made.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is used in toothpastes and mouthwashes and is used for Periodontal disease prevention. Ascorbic acid derivatives, such as ascorbic palmitate or ascorbic acid acid stearate serve as synergists for antioxidants, such as. B. in hair care or Hair dyes are used.

Ascorbic acid works together with vitamin E to oxidize unsaturated fatty acids and thus also prevents lipoperoxide formation (O. Isla, G. Brubacher, S. Ghisla., B. Kräutler eds .; Vitamins H, G. Tiehme-Verlag, Stuttgart, N.Y., 431, 1988). As a vitamin  the ascorbic acid also involved in metabolisms, such. As in the hydroxylation of proline in Collagen Synthesis (J.J. Burns, J.M. Rivers, L.J. Machin eds. Third Conference on vitamin C, Ann. N.Y. acad. Sci., 498 (1987) 1-533).

Due to the low stability of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations, it is often necessary to use stabilized derivatives of ascorbic acid. Examples of these are sodium L-ascorbic acid monophosphate (JP 07082127, JP 05331020), L-ascorbic acid-2-OD glucoside (T. Sakamoto et al., 19th IFSCC Congress, Sydney 1996, Wall 2, Paper No. 14 ) and 5,6-isopropylidene-L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (JP 08269074). DE 197 50 526 A discloses multiply substituted ascorbic acid derivatives which use acyl radicals of long-chain fatty acids with C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ -carbon chains for pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations.

Mother-of-pearl is a natural product found in marine shells and marine shell deposits can be found. The mother of pearl is crystallized in an aragonite structure. He exists to 96 to 98 wt .-% of calcium carbonate and 2 to 4 wt .-% of conchagens. These conchages are collagen-related substances consisting of chitin and proteins. The Proteins have a high content of acid aspartic acid and serine. The usage of ground mother of pearl is from Native American civilizations such as the Mayans Known to put the finely ground mother of pearl with different types of clay as a pack used appropriate body regions.

Object of the present invention is the provision of new cosmetic Formulations which have improved skin tolerance. The task was by the cosmetic formulations according to the invention, which mother of pearl and Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives dissolved.

Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is cosmetic formulations containing 1.5 to 35% by weight of mother of pearl, 2 to 6 Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of Ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate, ascorbic acid oleate, ascorbic acid laurinate, Ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acid linolate or ascorbic acid caprate, in each case obtained to the total amount of components of the formulations and more Ingredients from the group of emulsifiers, stabilizers, natural oils, cosmetic oils, fats, waxes, silicone oils, silicone oil derivatives, solubilizers, Humectants, active ingredients, bodying agents, gelling agents, antioxidants and / or Preservative.

In preferred embodiments
cosmetic formulations containing from 20 to 30% by weight of nacre and from 2.5 to 6% by weight of ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and from 77.5 to 64% by weight of further ingredients, calculated on the total composition of all ingredients, or
cosmetic formulations containing from 25 to 30% by weight of nacre and from 3.5 to 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and from 71.5 to 65% by weight of further ingredients, calculated on the total composition of all ingredients.

In a particular embodiment of the present invention are cosmetic Water or oil based formulations, the mother of pearl and preferred Ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate, Ascorbic acid oleate, ascorbic acid laurinate, ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acidelinolate or ascorbic acid caprinate.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention made of water and / or oil based cosmetic formulations, the mother of pearl and particularly preferably ascorbic palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate or ascorbic acid oleate contain.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention cosmetic formulation produced on a water and / or oil-free basis, the mother of pearl and preferably ascorbic acid.

As ascorbic acid derivatives are those mono- or polysubstituted derivatives of the group of ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate, ascorbic acid oleate, Ascorbic acid laurinate, ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acid linolate or ascorbic acid used caprinate.

Ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of ascorbic acid palmitate are preferred, Ascorbic acid stearate or ascorbic acid oleate.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are polyglycerol fatty acid esters, ethoxylates of fatty acids, Sorbitan fatty acid esters, phosphoric acid esters of fatty acids, phospholipids or glycerol mono Stearate be used.  

Examples of stabilizers which may be mentioned are magnesium and aluminum salts of fatty acids, Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, MGDA or antioxidants such as α-tocopherol, or Bile acid and its salts or esters.

Examples of natural oils are jojoba oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, almond oil, Macadarmianus oil, corn kernel oil, grape seed oil or castor oil mentioned.

Examples of cosmetic oils are isopropyl acid esters of fatty acids, paraffin oil or Neutral oil can be used.

The isopropyl acid esters of fatty acids include isopropyl laurate, among others Isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate or isopropyl palmitate.

As cosmetic active ingredients which can be used include, among others, bisabolol, α-tocopherol, aloe vera, algae extract, rectinol, panthenol or ferulic acid.

As humectants are exemplified glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol or polyethylene glycol mentioned.

Exemplary preservatives p-hydroxybenzoic acid, imidazolidinyl Urea, sorbic acid, bronopol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid.

Antioxidants are used in the fat phase. These include z. B. butylhydroxytoluene or butylhydroxyanisole.

Examples of suitable gel formers are fatty alcohol ethoxylates, fatty acid alkylolamides, ethoxylated Glucose ester or saline mentioned.

The cosmetic formulation of the invention are applied topically to the skin. When applied, a film of mother-of-pearl, ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives is formed and optionally further active ingredients, which leads to a calming of the sense organ, Skin contamination can be clarified with the cosmetic according to the invention Formulations are affected. These properties allow the use of the formulations according to the invention as a skin care product in functional changes the skin, z. B. in dry skin with a long-lasting effect.

The cosmetic formulations can be prepared on an aqueous or oily basis in the form of powders, face masks, face makeup, lotions, soaps, creams, Hair lotions, bath salts, bath salts, shower gels, lipsticks or oils, or on  anhydrous base in the form of powders, soaps, face masks, face makeup, Hairwash lipsticks or lotions.

Below are some formulation examples for different application forms of cosmetic formulation according to the invention, which is not a final Represent enumeration.  

example 1 Soap

ingredients Wt .-% Sodium soap from talc 45 Sodium soap made from coconut oil 35 nacre 15 glycerin 2 perfume oil 3 common salt 0.5 ascorbic acid palmitate 2.8 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, tetrasodium salt 0.3 Pigment Yellow 1 0.02 Specific additives 0.5 water ad 100

The sodium soap made from talc, coconut oil and mother-of-pearl were mixed at 70 ° Celsius melted and after cooling in a kneader with the remaining ingredients mixed and portioned bottled.

Example 2 Syndet based on fatty alcohol sulphate

ingredients Wt .-% sodium lauryl sulfate 20 sodium cocoyl 10 Sulfosuccinic acid lauryl ester, disodium salt 7 Cetylstearylalkohol 7 stearic acid 7 nacre 18 ascorbic acid palmitate 3 corn starch 5 Specific additives, dyes, perfume oil 0.4 water ad 100

The ingredients except the specific additives, colors, perfume oils, water and Ascorbic acid palmitate was mixed and melted at 70 ° C. After cooling  the remaining additives are added by kneading the mass. It takes place Portioning.

Example 3 Hand lotion

ingredients Wt .-% Myristyl alcohol × 2 EO sulfate 10 Kokosamidbetain 2 Cocoamide × 5 EO 2 Lauryl alcohol × 3 EO 2 ascorbic acid palmitate 4 nacre 24 Ethylene glycol 1 Cationic cellulose derivative 0.5 perfume oil 0.5 Preservatives, dyes, pH corrigents 0.9 water ad 100

The presentation of the lotion was carried out by simply mixing the substances.

Example 4 Cleansing Lotion

ingredients Wt .-% C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol sulfonosuccinate 6 Lauryl polyglycoside (APD) 4 Fatty acid / protein condensate 2 Coconut fatty acid monoglyceride × 7 EO 3 Glucose dioleate × 120 EO 1 nacre 27 ascorbic acid palmitate 4 perfume oil 0.3 Preservatives, pH Correctives 0.2 water ad 100

All components are mixed and assembled.  

Example 5 Foot Cream

ingredients Wt .-% Vaseline, white 15 paraffin oil 10 stearic acid 5 cetyl alcohol 2 wool grease 1 nacre 20 ascorbic acid palmitate 5 Tris (hydroymethyl) -aminomethane (trometamine) 0.7 preservative 0.5 perfume oil 0.5 water ad 100

All components were mixed and made up.

Example 6 Talc-based foot powder

ingredients Wt .-% talc 70 aluminum hydroxychloride 7.5 nacre 30 silica 2 Ascorbic palmitate or ascorbic acid 4 salicylic acid 2

The listed ingredients were each screened individually to same grain size to ensure and prevent lump formation. The mixture was then together mixed and portioned.  

Example 7 skin cream

ingredients Wt .-% nacre 30 glycerin 3 1,2-propanediol 3 PEG-100 Stearate 6 Polysorbate 60 1 Cetylstearylalkohol 2 Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) 6 lanolin 3 beeswax 1.5 Caprylic / capric 8th Ginkoextrakt 1.5 ascorbic acid palmitate 4 lecithin 1 preservative 0.5 water ad 100

The components are with the exception of the Ginkoe extract and a water content of 30% by weight mixed. Then the remaining water with the extract mixed in.

Example 8 cream

ingredients Wt .-% Glycerol monostearate 60 2.4 cetyl alcohol 3.6 Medium chain triglycerides 4.5 vaseline 15.3 Macrogol 1000 glycorolmonosteasrat 4.2 propylene glycol 6 water 24 nacre 30 ascorbic acid palmitate 5 Perfume oil and other ingredients ad 100

The preparation was prepared as follows

Glycerol monostearate 60, cetyl alcohol, medium chain triglycerides and white petrolatum were heated in a water bath to about 60 ° C and partially with the same temperature heated mixture of Macrogol 1000 glycorol monostearate, propylene glycol and water added. The cream was stirred constantly until it cooled and the evaporated water added. Subsequently, the cream was at tightest gap setting by a Three-roll chair given.

Example 9 Face powder (pressed)

ingredients Wt .-% Titanium dioxide 5 magnesium stearate 3 magnesium silicate 30 mica 7 iron oxides 2 nacre 25 ascorbic acid palmitate 4 Preservative, antioxidant 0.8 talc ad 100

All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.

Example 10 Face powder (loose)

ingredients Wt .-% magnesium silicate 10 kaolin 5 zinc stearate 2 mica 7 iron oxide 0.5 nacre 30 Ascorbic acid / ascorbic 5 Preservative after quality 0.3 talc ad 100

All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.

Example 11 rouge

ingredients Wt .-% magnesium silicate 15 zinc stearate 3 mica 20 Titanium dioxide 8th nacre 30 color pigments 4 Ascorbic acid / ascorbic 4 Preservative, antioxidant to quality 0.3 talc ad 100

All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.

Example 12 Face powder (loose)

ingredients Wt .-% magnesium silicate 10 kaolin 5 zinc stearate 2 mica 7 iron oxide 0.5 nacre 5 Ascorbic acid / ascorbic 5 Preservative after quality 0.3 talc ad 100

All ingredients were thoroughly mixed, sieved and confectioned.  

Example 13 Skin relaxing face pack

ingredients Wt .-% Armicatinktur 5 rosemary oil 0.5 magnesium carbonate 10 Wheat starch powder 7.5 Bentone LT 7.5 Kolloidkaolin 50 nacre 15 Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid ester 4.5

Armature tincture and rosemary oil were gradually mixed with the magnesium carbonate and the Half of mother-of-pearl rubbed. After drying, one sifted and mixed with the remaining ingredients intense.

Example 14 paraffin masks

ingredients Wt .-% Paraffin molle (40-45 ° C melting point) 65.5 beeswax 9 Adeps lanae anhydr. 1 so-called vitamin F (250 000 Einh / g) 0.4 Ascorbic acid or ascorbic palmitate 4 nacre 20 lavender extract 0.1

With the exception of the lavender extract, all ingredients were removed by heating in Water bath melted and mixed. Upon cooling to about 55 ° C was the Lavender extract stirred.  

Example 15 Masque velor

ingredients Wt .-% Wheat germ oil 5 Kolloidkaolin 26 nacre 25 Ascorbic acid oleate or ascorbic acid 4 Dry milk powder 40

The powder was mixed and mixed with water and spreadable as a spread on the Facial skin applied. After 10-15 min. was washed off with warm water.

Example 16 oil jelly

ingredients Wt .-% olive oil 50 E Grandelat 7 Eutanol G 13 Isolinolsäureester 0.5 nacre 20 Ascorbinsäurestearat 3 Epidermin in oil 0.1 Placenta liquid oil-soluble 0.9 perfume oil 0.5 Aerosil 5.0

The ingredients were intimately mixed and portioned.  

Example 17 Babyhautschutzgel

ingredients Wt .-% Alugel 30 DF 7.5 Silicone oil AK 500 8th isopropyl palmitate 25 ascorbic acid palmitate 3 Paraffin oil pearl. 25 Cegesoft C24 1 Hibitanediacetat 0.3 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2 nacre 24 perfume oil 6

The ingredients were intimately mixed and formulated.

Example 18 Bath salts

ingredients Wt .-% Pure sodium chloride 80 Sodium sulfate (dehydrated) 2 Alcoholic uranin solution (5%) 2 1,2-Propylenglokol 2 nacre 6 ascorbic acid 4 perfume oil 4

The perfume oil was applied to the broad-spread salt mixture with a Atomizer evenly distributed. Subsequently, in a mixer drum was thoroughly mixed, spread again in a shallow layer and packaged the following day.  

Example 19 Lip Balm

ingredients Wt .-% isopropyl 8th Acelated lanolin 4 Parsol MCX 1 castor oil 40 isopropyl palmitate 10 ozokerite 5 beeswax 9 Candellilwachs 7 carnauba wax 4 aromatic oil 1 nacre 8th Ascorbinsäurestearat 2.9 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1

The raw materials were heated to 70 ° C merged and stirred homogeneously. it then the final mixture was at about 5 ° C above the melting point of the mixture poured into warmed lipstick molds.

Example 20 Hair tonic for general hair care

ingredients Wt .-% alcohol 40 glycerin 2 Quaternary ammonium compound 0.2 nacre 3 Ascorbic acid or ascorbic palmitate 3.5 plant extract 1 panthenol 1 water ad 100

The ingredients are mixed and formulated.  

Example 21 face mask

ingredients Wt .-% lecithin 0.5 Wheat germ oil 0.5 Carotene (100,000 Einh / g) 0.2 soy flour 10 Dry milk powder 10 Kolloidkaolin 45 nacre 25 Ascorbic acid / Ascorbinstearat 3.1 Germall® 0.5 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2

Lecithin and wheat germ oil were mixed and heated in a heated water bath Carotene is added. Subsequently, the ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid stearate, Mother-of-pearl, sieved soybean meal, dried milk powder, Germall, colloidkaolin and p-hydroxy Benzoic acid methyl ester added and mixed everything.

The mask was moistened with water or milk before use and for 20 minutes allowed to swell. Thereafter, a slurry was mixed with water, which was applied to the skin was washed off with water after 15 to 20 minutes.

Example 22 shower

ingredients Wt .-% Elfacos GT 282 3 Genapol AMS 44 nacre 8th Ascorbinsurepalmitat 3 perfume oil 0.5 Tego Betain L 7 15 sodium chloride 2 water ad 100 Dye solution and preservative upon need

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic formulations containing 1.5 to 30 percent by weight of mother of pearl, calculated on the total composition of the formulation, 1 to 6 weight percent Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of ascorbic acid palmitate, Ascorbic acid stearate, ascorbic acid oleate, ascorbic acid laurinate, ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acid linolate or ascorbic acid caprate and another 94-64 Weight percent of ingredients from the group of emulsifiers, stabilizers, natural oils, cosmetic oils, fats, waxes, silicone oils, silicone oil derivatives, Solubilizers, humectants, active ingredients, bodying agents, gelling agents, Antioxidants and / or preservatives. 2. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized, that 20 to 30 weight percent mother of pearl and 2.5 to 6 weight percent ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid derivatives and 77.5 to 64% by weight of other auxiliaries, calculated on the total composition of the cosmetic formulation used become. 3. Cosmetic formulations according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized, that mother of pearl in a proportion of 25 to 30 weight percent, ascorbic acid or Ascorbinsäurederivate in a proportion of 2.5 to 3.5 weight percent in the cosmetic formulations are used. 4. Cosmetic formulations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized, that Ascorbinsäurederivate preferably Ascorbinsäureoleat, Ascorbinsäurepalmitat or Ascorbic acid stearate. 5. Cosmetic formulations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized, in that the ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of ascorbic acid palmitate, Ascorbic acid stearate, ascorbic acid oleate, ascorbic acid laurinate, ascorbic acid myristinate, ascorbic acid linolate or ascorbic acid caprinate in water and / or oily cosmetic formulations are used.   6. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 5, characterized, that particularly preferably the ascorbic acid derivatives from the group of Ascorbic acid palmitate, ascorbic acid stearate or ascorbic acid oleate in the case of and / or oily cosmetic formulations. 7. Cosmetic formulations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized, that preferably ascorbic acid used in oil and / or anhydrous formulations becomes. 8. Cosmetic formulations according to one of the preceding claims for topical Application on the skin. 9. Cosmetic formulations according to one of the preceding claims characterized, that they are in the form of water or oily products from the group of creams, Powders, oils, face masks, face make-up, lipsticks, bath additives Shower gels, shower baths or lotions are used. 10. Cosmetic formulations according to one of the preceding claims characterized, in the form of anhydrous products from the group of powders, oils, soaps, Face masks, facial makeup or lotions are used.