FR2863163A1 - Composition useful as a cosmetic product, e.g. for moisturizing the skin, comprises an aqueous extract of tree fern leaves and a mother-of-pearl extract - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising an aqueous extract of Cyathea tree fern leaves and a mother-of-pearl extract is new. An independent claim is also included for a cosmetic method for moisturizing the skin, improving the suppleness or density of the skin and/or preventing dry skin by topical application of a composition as above to the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a

  physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous extract of fern leaves of the genus Cyathea and a mother-of-pearl extract.

  It also relates to a cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin and / or improving its flexibility or density and / or preventing its drying, including the topical application to the skin of the composition mentioned above.

  Skin aging results from the effects on the skin of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Clinically, signs of aging result in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, sagging skin and subcutaneous tissues, loss of skin elasticity, sluggish skin texture, and yellowing of the skin which becomes duller and without radiance. In areas of the skin that have been exposed to the sun throughout life - mainly the face, décolleté, hands and forearms - pigment spots, telangiectasias and elastosis are common.

  In addition, many women over the age of thirty-five, and especially after menopause, frequently complain of dry skin. This desiccation is due, as we know now, to a decrease in the production of sebum with age. It can also be aggravated by exposure to wind, cold or certain irritating chemicals.

  However, in addition to the discomfort it generates (particularly tightness), the drying of the skin 25 may also have unsightly consequences and in particular cause desquamation of the skin, a dull complexion and cutaneous atony.

  It is therefore understandable the importance of using moisturizing compositions in the care of aged skin.

  The Applicant has now discovered that new moisturizing compositions could be formulated from two natural extracts.

  The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous extract of fern leaves of the genus Cyathea and a nacre extract.

  It also relates to a cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin and / or improving its flexibility or density and / or preventing its drying out, including the topical application to the skin of this composition.

  The aqueous extract of fern leaves of the genus Cyathea used in the composition according to the invention is a type of tree fern, spread mainly in Australia and New Zealand. It may belong to one of the following species: C. arborea, C. australis, C. brevipinna, C. brownil, C. capensis, C. caracasana, C. celebica, C. celensoi, C. cooperi, C. cunninghamii , C. dealbata, C. dregei, C. fulva, C. gleichenoide, C. howeana, C. incisoserrat, C. kermadacensis, C. leichhardtiana, C. lunulata, C. macarthuri, C. macgregorii, C. medullaris, C. rebeccae, C. robertsiana, C. robusta, C. smithii, C. spinulosa, C. tomentosissima, C. veillardii and C. woollsiana. It is preferably a fern extract of the species Cyathea medullaris (or Mamaku extract). It may in particular be obtained from LUCAS MEYER under the trade name Mamaku Vital Essence.

  The mother-of-pearl extract that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be derived from molluscs such as oysters, in particular oyster Pinctada maxima, or mussels, in particular freshwater mussels such as the species Hyriopsis schlegelii, Maragritifera marggritifera, Lampsilis teres, Quadrula nodulata, Megalonaias nervosa, Fusconaia ebena, Pleurobema cordatum, Quadrula metanevra, Cristaria plicata or Hydriopsis cumingii. This latter species is preferred for use in the present invention.

  The mother-of-pearl extract may be obtained by reduction of the mother-of-pearl powder, optionally preceded by a decontamination step, for example with sodium hypochlorite, and may be followed by extraction with the aid of a aqueous or hydroglycolic solvent.

  It generally comprises, as main constituents: (1) more than 90% by weight of aragonite (calcium carbonate) and (2) conchyoline, containing a chain of amino acids comprising essentially (a) alanine, (b) glycine, and (c) aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It may also contain trace elements.

  In particular, it is possible to use the mother-of-pearl extracts marketed by ROSSOW under the trade name Complexe Maxima, by the company GREENTECH under the trade name Extract of Nacre or by SINO LION under the trade name PPP-100.

  The amount of fern and nacre extracts that can be used in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent depending on the desired effect. For example, the composition may contain from 0.0001 to 0.1% and preferably from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight of fern leaf extract, active material, relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition, the composition may contain from 0.001 to 1% and preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of nacre extract, of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  By "active ingredient" is meant the constituents of the raw material other than the solvents and preservatives that it may possibly include.

  The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say having a pleasant appearance, odor and color and that does not generate undesirable discomfort (redness, tightness, tingling) likely to divert I "user of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

  As oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms or else, for example, vegetable oils such as apricot kernel oil and oil shea butter; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as oil from Parleam; - natural or synthetic essential oils; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol) or octyldodecanol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and - their mixtures.

  The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candellila wax; and gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol).

  These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

  This composition may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers including polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid esters of glycerol and esters of fatty acids and sorbitan optionally oxyethylenated; fillers and pigments, in particular silica, mica, titanium; conservatives; sequestering agents; dyes; perfumes; pH adjusters, such as sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine or citric acid; and thickeners and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide homo- and copolymers, acrylic copolymers and xanthan gum. The amounts of these various adjuvants and their nature will be chosen so as not to affect the properties of the composition according to the invention.

  To enhance or supplement the effects of the composition according to the invention, it may include at least one compound selected from: another moisturizing agent, a depigmenting or anti-pigmenting agent, an anti-radical agent and a soothing agent.

  By "hydrating agent" is meant: - either a compound acting on the barrier function, with a view to maintaining the hydration of the stratum corneum, such as ceramides and lecithins; or a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, and oligo- and polysaccharides; or an activating compound for sebaceous glands such as steroid derivatives (including DHEA, its 7-oxidized and / or 17-alkylated derivatives and sapogenins), and methyl dihydrojasmonate.

  These additional moisturizing agents, when present, may be encapsulated, for example in nanocapsules as described in US Pat. No. 6,203,802.

  The depigmenting or anti-pigmenting agents that may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention comprise, for example, the following compounds: honey, L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid and its salts and esters; calcium d-panthétéine sulfonate, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; and plant extracts, especially licorice, mulberry, and skullcap.

  The anti-radical agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; phytantriol; and gamma-oryzanol.

  Soothing agents include panthenol.

  The composition according to the invention may further contain at least one active photoprotective agent in the UVA and / or UVB. The photoprotective agents may be organic and / or inorganic.

  The organic photoprotective agents are in particular chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of (3, 3-diphenylacrylate, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazolines, bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-Aminobenzoic acid (PABA), methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119, the benzoxazole derivatives as described in US Pat. patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844, the filter and silicone screening polymers such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665, the alkyl-styrene-derived dimers such as those described in the patent application DE19855649; , 4-diarylbutadienes as described in EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EPA-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

  The more particularly preferred photoprotective agents are chosen from: octyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-3, 13'-diphenyl acrylate (octocrylene), and 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid, 4- (t-butyl) -4-methoxy dibenzoylmethane, benzene 1,4- [di (3-methylidenecamphosulphonic acid)], hydroxylated and / or methoxylated benzophenones, and the compound known under the name CTFA "drometrizole trisiloxane".

  The inorganic photoprotective agents are chosen from pigments or even nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides, for example nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium.

  The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the amounts are indicated in weight percent.

EXAMPLES

  EXAMPLE 1 HIE Direct Emulsion The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for the skilled person: Phase Constituents A Water qs Glycerine 5.00% Preservative 0.70% Neutralizers 0.10% B Gelling agent 0.25 C Emulsifying 6.50% Fatty substances 13.00 D Silicone oil 2.00% Antioxidant 0.20% Gelling agent 0.20% E Esters 7.50% Preservative 0.20% F Aqueous extract of 1.00 leaves of fern Mamaku (at 2% of ma) G Loads 3.00% H Mother-of-pearl powder 0.05% 1 Perfume 0.25% Example 2: Inverse Emulsion E 1 H The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for the skilled person: Phase Constituents Al Oils 15.00% Perfume 0.25% A2 Silicone surfactants 2.00% Silicone oil 10.00 B Water qs 100% Glycerin 5.00% Preservatives 0.90% Magnesium sulphate 0.70% C aqueous leaf extract 1.50% Mamaku fern (2% ai) D Mother-of-pearl powder 0.055% Pigments 0.75% Example 3: Composition without emulsifier Manually prepared for man of the trade, the following composition: Phase Constituents A Water qs Glycerin 3.00% Preservatives 0.40% B Gelling agent 1.00% C Oils 5.00 c / o Charges 0.25% D Water extract of leaves 2.00% of ferns Mamaku 0.10% (at 2% of Ma) Mother-of-Pearl powder E Fragrance 0.15% Example 4: Gelled lotion The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for the person skilled in the art: Phase Material 1st% A Water qs Glycerin 2.00% Preservatives 0. 85% Neutralizer 0.60% B1 Esters and oils 5.00% of silicones 0.10% Anti-radical agents B2 Gelling agent 0.40% C Perfume 0.05% D Water extract of leaves 5.00% Mamaku fern (at 2% of ma) E Mother-of-pearl powder 0.25% The compositions of Examples 1 to 4 can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to nourish the skin and redensify the dermis.

  EXAMPLE 5 In Vivo Evaluation A panel of 49 postmenopausal women aged 65 years and over applied once a day for one month a cream in the form of an O / W emulsion containing 4 × 10 -4 cYO by weight of fern Cyathea medullaris (active ingredient) and 0.05% by weight of mother-of-pearl powder from Hydriopsis cumingii.

  A self-evaluation was performed after one month of use: for 98% and 90% of these women, the skin appeared respectively more flexible and less dry. In addition, 77% of them thought that their skin looked denser and 79% that their complexion was more radiant.

Claims (11)

  1. A composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous extract of fern leaves of the genus Cyathea and a mother-of-pearl extract.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fern leaf extract is an extract of C. arborea, C. australis, C. brevipinna, C. brownii, C. capensis, C. caracasana, C. celebica , C. celensoi, C. cooperi, C. cunninghamii, C. dealbata, C. dregel, C. fulva, C. gleichenoide, C. howeana, C. incisoserrat, C. kermadacensis, C. leichhardtiana, C. lunulata, C. macarthuri, C. macgregorii, C. medullaris, C. rebeccae, C. robertsiana, C. robusta, C. smithii, C. spinulosa, C. tomentosissima, C. veillardii or C. woollsiana.   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the fern leaf extract is an extract of Cyathea medullaris.   4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nacre extract is derived from freshwater mussel.   5. The composition as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that the mussel belongs to the species Hyriopsis schlegelii, Maragritifera margaritifera, Lampsilis teres, Quadrula nodulata, Megalonaias nervosa, Fusconaia ebena, Pleurobema cordatum, Quadrula metanevra, Cristaria plicata or Hydriopsis cumingii.   6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the nacre extract is derived from Hydriopsis cumingii ..   7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the nacre extract is obtained by reducing the mother powder nacre, optionally preceded by a decontamination step and can be followed by extraction. using an aqueous or a hydroglycolic solvent.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the nacre extract comprises, as main constituents: (1) more than 90% by weight of aragonite and (2) conchyoline, containing a amino acid sequence comprising essentially (a) alanine, (b) glycine, and (c) aspartic acid and / or asparagine.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight of fern leaf extract, active material, relative to the total weight of the fern leaf. composition.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of nacre extract, active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.   11. Cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin and / or improving its flexibility or density and / or preventing its drying out, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.