EP1737457A2 - Use of a sphingoid base associated with nicotinic acid or a nicotinic acid amide in the form of a depigmentation agent - Google Patents

Use of a sphingoid base associated with nicotinic acid or a nicotinic acid amide in the form of a depigmentation agent

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Publication number
EP1737457A2
EP1737457A2 EP05753773A EP05753773A EP1737457A2 EP 1737457 A2 EP1737457 A2 EP 1737457A2 EP 05753773 A EP05753773 A EP 05753773A EP 05753773 A EP05753773 A EP 05753773A EP 1737457 A2 EP1737457 A2 EP 1737457A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
nicotinic acid
composition
phytosphingosine
sphingoid base
use according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05753773A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jean-Claude Allart
Jean-Marie Lefevre
Jacques Peyrot
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Negma Lerads SA
Original Assignee
Negma Lerads SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Negma Lerads SA filed Critical Negma Lerads SA
Publication of EP1737457A2 publication Critical patent/EP1737457A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/395Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins
    • A61K31/435Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins having six-membered rings with one nitrogen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A61K31/44Non condensed pyridines; Hydrogenated derivatives thereof
    • A61K31/455Nicotinic acids, e.g. niacin; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters, amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/13Amines
    • A61K31/133Amines having hydroxy groups, e.g. sphingosine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

  • a sphingoid base associated with nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid as depigmenting agent.
  • the present invention relates to a new use of a composition
  • a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base.
  • PRIOR ART Depigmentation of the skin may be desired under various circumstances, either for a global lightening thereof, or to eliminate or attenuate spots resulting from local pigmentation disorders.
  • the pigmentation of the skin is determined by the presence of melanin in the epidermis and the dermis. Melanin is produced by melanocytes located mainly in the basal layer. These melanocytes send dendritic extensions everywhere, between the keratinocytes.
  • the enzyme tyrosinase is needed to produce melanin.
  • This biosynthesis also called melanogenesis
  • melanogenesis is a complex process which is now relatively well known.
  • the pigmentation is normally uniform.
  • pigmentation can be excessive locally, what is commonly called hyperpigmentation.
  • Hyperpigmentation of the skin can include blemishes or disorders of the skin including freckles, senile lentigo, melasma, age spots, pigmentation due to sunburn, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to l , burns, wounds, insect bites, dermatitis, and other small local pigmented lesions.
  • Many cosmetic treatment methods for hyperpigmentation exist but none is completely satisfactory.
  • exfoliation including chemical exfoliation, or methods having an impact on melanogenesis, using depigmenting agents.
  • depigmenting agents commonly used act directly on the vitality of the epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place and / or interfere with one of the stages of melanin biosynthesis either by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis, or by intercalating as an analogue. structural of one of the chemical compounds in the melanin synthesis chain, which chain can then be blocked and thus ensure depigmentation.
  • Depigmenting agents can be divided into several groups: Phenolic compounds, which include in particular the following compounds: • Hydroquinone and its ethers such as monobenzyl ether, • 4-methoxyphenol, • 4-isopropylcatechol, • 4-hydroxyanisole and, • N -acetyl-4-S-cystaminylphenol, - Non-phenolic compounds, which include in particular the following compounds: • Corticosteroids, • Tretinoin, • Azelaic acid, • N-acetylcysteine (NAC), • Ascorbic acid and derivatives such as L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate and, • Kojic acid, Combinations of these compounds, among which there may be mentioned the Kligman formulation, the Pathak formulation or the Westerhof formulation.
  • Phenolic compounds which include in particular the following compounds: • Hydroquinone and its ethers such as monobenzyl ether, • 4-methoxyphenol, • 4-isopropylcatechol, • 4-hydroxy
  • nicotinamide or niacinamide also called vitamin PP, vitamin B3 or niacin
  • Application WO 99.47114 also describes compositions essentially comprising nicotinic acid or nicotinamide as well as an intermediate or precursor of ceramides, used only for hydration of the skin and not for its depigmentation.
  • sphingoid bases such as phytosphingosine and sphingosine, precursors of ceramides, are present in human skin, and studies have shown that these molecules have inhibitory properties of protein kinase C, and seem to be involved in differentiation of keratinocytes of the epidermis.
  • sphingosines present in the stratum corneum and other layers of the epidermis inhibit the growth of certain undesirable microorganisms.
  • Various publications describe the use of sphingosine and phytosphingosine in cosmetic and dermatological compositions.
  • patent application WO 95.03028 describes sphingosine, used in a composition with a pH close to 5, to reduce the irritant effect of certain alpha-hydroxy acids.
  • Patent EP 940,140 describes a cosmetic composition combining alpha-hydroxy acids and ceramides or precursors of ceramides such as phytosphingosine.
  • sphingoid bases have not been found to be effective as depigrants.
  • EP 919,226 relates to a cosmetic composition based on phytosphingosine salicylate capable of having anti-acne, anti-wrinkle or lightening properties. the skin.
  • the composition can also contain various usual ingredients of the technique such as vitamins A, C and E, used according to their well known properties. It is also known from patent application WO 02/085362 that a composition essentially comprising nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and a sphingoid base is useful for the treatment of keratinization disorders in human or animal dermatology .
  • the subject of the invention is therefore the use of a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base as depigmenting agent .
  • the subject of the invention is also a method of depigmentation of the skin, consisting in applying to the exposed areas a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one base. sphingoid.
  • the subject of the invention is more particularly the use of a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and of at least one sphingoid base to promote lightening of the skin as well as the associated cosmetic treatment method.
  • a more particular subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base to combat hyperpigmentation of the skin as well as the associated cosmetic treatment method.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin intended to reduce, eliminate or avoid pigmentation spots, by providing a depigmenting or lightening effect consisting in applying to the exposed areas a composition comprising a combination of minus nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base.
  • a subject of the invention is finally the use of a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base, for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended for combating against hyperpigmentation.
  • the nicotinic acid amide may preferably be nicotinamide or vitamin PP.
  • the sphingoid base can be chosen from sphingosine, sphinganine, phytosphingosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine, phytosphingosine salicylate, tetracetylphytosphingosine, N-acetyl phytosphingosine and phytosphingosine hydrochloride.
  • the preferred sphingoid base is phytosphingosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine (N-salicyloyl phytosphingosine) or phytosphingosine hydrochloride.
  • the nicotinic acid, or the nicotinic acid amide can be used in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 10%.
  • the sphingoid base content can vary depending on the base used, but it is generally between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05 and 2%.
  • Nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide, especially vitamin PP, as well as the sphingoid bases used in the compositions of the present invention are generally commercially available and can be obtained by known methods from various sources. appropriate.
  • the sphingoid bases can be obtained from natural sources or by chemical synthesis or by fermentation. They can also be obtained from animal or plant tissues by extraction and purification.
  • the sphingoid bases used in the invention are prepared by microbial fermentation, for example from a yeast such as Pichia ciferii, and the phytosphingosine obtained in this way has the advantage of being very close to that of the human or animal skin.
  • the phytosphingosine obtained from tetra-acetyl-phytosphingosine by deacetylation is used as the sphingoid base.
  • the deacetylation reaction can be carried out by chemical reaction, for example by hydrolysis in basic medium, or by enzymatic reaction.
  • the tests carried out on the use according to the present invention of the compositions described above have demonstrated a synergy of action, particularly between the vitamin PP and phytosphingosine, providing a potentiation of depigmenting activity.
  • Vitamin PP would act mainly by a mechanism of inhibition of the transfer of melanin towards the keratinocyte while phytosphingosine would inhibit the translocation of NFkappaB after exposure to UV.
  • Another depigmenting agent may be incorporated into the compositions the use of which is the subject of the present invention, a list of examples of which has been provided above in the introduction. It is also possible to combine with the compositions according to the present invention exfoliants and in particular lactic acid. All these variant compositions are also part of the invention.
  • the excipients and carriers which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the present invention are those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration used.
  • gelling agents By way of example, mention may be made of gelling agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, softeners, as well as perfumes.
  • emulsifying agent from carboxyvinyl polymers of high molecular weight such as Carbopol ®, polysorbates such as those marketed under the trademark T een 20 ® or Tween 60 ®, sorbitan esters and, for example a stearate, palmitate, a sorbitan oleate or laurate (for example Arlacel ® ).
  • emulsifying agents various derivatives of stearic or palmitic acid such as glycerol stearate, propylene glycol stearate, polyethylene glycol stearate, PEG 100® stearate, steareth or ceteareth, or alternatively polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, a polyglucoside of siloxane, or an emulsifiable silicone.
  • the gelling agents and thickeners are incorporated into the composition to improve the fluidity.
  • the softeners can be chosen from fatty alcohols or esters, and for example products based on isostearyl alcohol or polysaccharide sorbitol sold under the brands Soothex® and Rhamnosoft®. In general, the usual softeners of the technique may be suitable in the invention.
  • Protective agents against ultraviolet rays can also be added to the compositions, the use of which is the subject of the present invention.
  • These protective agents can for example be hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sun filters which can be chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex® 4360) , or an ester of cinnamic acid and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex® 2292), ethyl-2-hexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX®), or alternatively a cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ -di-phenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex® OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300®), and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), t
  • pigments forming an anti-ultraviolet screen which can for example be chosen from titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystallized in the form rutile or anatase), zinc oxide, zirconium or aluminum.
  • nanopigments of metal oxides with a particle size between 5 and 100 nm can be used.
  • a solvent capable of facilitating or improving the penetration of the active principles into the skin can also advantageously be included in the compositions of the invention, and for example one can use a non-ionic amphiphilic glycerol derivative such as 1, 2-O-isopropylidene glycerol (Solketal).
  • the compositions for implementing the invention can be in all the usual dosage forms suitable for dermatological or cosmetic indication, for topical application.
  • compositions can be, for example, in the form of aqueous, oily or hydroalcoholic solutions, dispersions, sera, gels (aqueous, anhydrous or lipophilic), micellar lotions, hydroalcoholic lotions, spray solutions, suspensions, ionic or nonionic vesicular dispersions, liquid or semi-liquid emulsions (for example milk), solid or semi-solid.
  • the emulsions can be of the oil in water (O / W) or water in oil (W / O) type, for example gels or creams.
  • the compositions, the use of which is the subject of the present invention can be applied directly to the skin at the rate of one or more applications per day for a duration adapted to the duration of the affection.
  • Example 1 A blind study on volunteers was carried out during the sunny period (8 volunteers per product). This study is based on a global evaluation of the color parameters of the back skin of the hands in a “before” versus “after” use mode. The products were applied to the entire hand and the effect was evaluated at the level of pre-selected pigment spots and at the level of an area free from stains (called the "control" site). Each volunteer used a sun protection cream on the hands to minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation which could appear under the influence of ultraviolet radiation linked to sunlight during the experiment. The following parameters were studied: geometry of the spots (size), melanic index on the spot and on the "control” site and, - luminance (L *) on the spot and on the "control” site. The analysis concerns the evolution of the parameters between the first and the last day of the study for the applied products. The composition of the products studied is as follows:
  • Vitamin PP Depigmenting Formula 1 0 g, 0% Formula 2 5 Q. 0 Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 0, 1% Formula 3 5 g. ⁇ Formula 4 0 o. o Arlatone dio ⁇ c Formula 5 0 ⁇ Albatin
  • formula 1 is the placebo formula
  • formula 2 is based on the “active base” containing vitamin PP at a concentration of 5%, in which a sphingoid base has been added, while formula 3 contains the same dose of vitamin PP without phytosphingosine.
  • Formulas 4 and 5 are commercially available compositions containing listed depigmentants, namely octadecene dioic acid (Arlatone dioic) and aminoethylphosphinic acid (Albatin).
  • listed depigmentants namely octadecene dioic acid (Arlatone dioic) and aminoethylphosphinic acid (Albatin).
  • the results obtained show that: - For formulations 1, 2 and 3, the geometry of the spots does not change significantly over time. - The luminance (L *) of the skin increases (the color of the skin becomes lighter) at the level of the spots and at the level of the “control” zone for formula 2. - The melanic index decreases (less melanin is present) at the spot level and at the level of the "control" zone for formula 2.
  • TRIO D is a depigmenting composition based on ammonium lactate, ascorbic acid and glabridin at a concentration of 0.1%.
  • TRIO A includes the same active ingredients and glabridin at a concentration of 0.2%.
  • Formula C of the invention contains the same concentration of glabridin, which is a compound known for its antityrosinase activity. Attempts.
  • compositions being in ethanolic solution buffered to pH 6.8 containing 500 ⁇ l of tyrosine solution and 500 ⁇ l of tyrosinase solution, and the control used is identical but does not contain depigmentant.
  • a blank control is identical to the control but the tyrosinase is replaced by the same amount of water.
  • a blank test is prepared using the same sample of formula to be tested but by replacing the tyrosinase with the same amount of water. It is left to incubate for 1 hour in a water bath at 37 ° C protected from light and then the tubes containing the formulas tested are cooled in a cold water bath to about 18 ° C. The absorbance of the solutions is measured at 475 n in a 10 mm tank. The results are collated in the following table.
  • the average inhibition rate for an amount of lmg product was obtained by averaging the measurements of each formula (3 measurements per formula) compared to an amount of product of 1 mg. It is therefore found that the formula C according to the invention has a significantly higher antityrosinase activity than the reference formulas, resulting in a greater depigmatory power. It is noted in particular that the inhibition rate is doubled compared to formula B which contains the same glabridin content. This demonstrates the effect of the combination of vitamin PP and phytosphingosine on depigmentation.
  • the examples which follow relate to formulations containing an association the use of which is the subject of the present patent application. The names of the components are taken from the INCI nomenclature.

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Abstract

The invention relates to using a composition comprising an association of at least one type of nicotinic acid or nicotinic acid amide and at least one type of a sphingoid base in the form of a depigmentation agent. The use of the inventive composition makes it possible simultaneously to promote skin lightening and control a local skin hyperpigmentaton of any nature and origin. Methods for an associated cosmetic treatment and the use the association of at least one type of nicotinic acid or nicotinic acid amide and at least one type of a sphingoid base for preparing a dermatological preparation for controlling hyperpigmentation are also disclosed.

Description

Utilisation d'une base sphingoïde associée à 1 ' acide nicotinique ou un amide de 1 ' acide nicotinique à titre d'agent dépigmentant. Use of a sphingoid base associated with nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid as depigmenting agent.
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle utilisation d'une composition comprenant une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et au moins une base sphingoïde. L' art antérieur La dépigmentation de la peau peut être souhaitée dans diverses circonstances, soit pour un éclaircissement global de celle-ci, soit pour éliminer ou atténuer des taches issues de troubles locaux de la pigmentation. La pigmentation de la peau est déterminée par la présence de mélanine dans l'épiderme et le derme. La mélanine est fabriquée par les mélanocytes situés principalement dans la couche basale. Ces mélanocytes envoient des prolongements dendritiques un peu partout, entre les kératinocytes . Il faut la présence d'une enzyme, la tyrosinase, pour produire la mélanine. Cette biosynthèse, également nommée mélanogénèse est un processus complexe qui est maintenant relativement bien connu. Ainsi, la pigmentation est normalement uniforme. Toutefois, la pigmentation peut être excessive localement, ce qu'on nomme couramment l'hyperpigmentation. L'hyperpigmentation de la peau peut inclure des défauts ou des désordres de la peau comprenant des taches de rousseur, lentigo sénile, mélasme, des taches de vieillissement, la pigmentation due à des coups de soleil, l'hyperpigmentation post-inflammatoire due à l'abrasion, les brûlures, les blessures, les morsures d'insecte, les dermatites, et autres petites lésions pigmentées locales. De nombreuses méthodes de traitement cosmétique de l'hyperpigmentation existent mais aucune n'est complètement satisfaisante. Il existe en effet des méthodes de gommage, y compris de gommage chimique, ou encore des méthodes ayant une incidence sur la mélanogénèse, utilisant des agents dépigmentants. Les agents dépigmentants couramment utilisés agissent directement sur la vitalité des mélanocytes epidermiques où se déroule la mélanogénèse et/ou interfèrent avec une des étapes de la biosynthèse de la mélanine soit en inhibant une des enzymes impliquées dans la mélanogénèse, soit en s ' intercalant comme analogue structural d'un des composés chimiques de la chaîne de synthèse de la mélanine, chaîne qui peut alors être bloquée et ainsi assurer la dépigmentation. Les agents dépigmentants peuvent être répartis en plusieurs groupes : Les composés phénoliques, qui comprennent notamment les composés suivants : • Hydroquinone et ses éthers tels que le monobenzyl éther, • 4-méthoxyphénol, • 4-isopropylcatéchol, • 4-hydroxyanisole et, • N-acétyl-4-S-cystaminylphénol, - Les composés non phénoliques, qui comprennent notamment les composés suivants : • Corticostéroïdes, • Trétinoine, • Acide azélaique, • N-acétylcystéine (NAC) , • L'acide ascorbique et des dérivés tels que le L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate et, • L'acide Kojique, Les associations de ces composés parmi lesquelles on peut citer la formulation Kligman, la formulation Pathak ou la formulation Westerhof. De plus, le nicotinamide ou niacinamide, également appelé vitamine PP, vitamine B3 ou encore niacine, est connu pour ses propriétés dépigmentantes. La demande WO 99.47114 décrit aussi des compositions comprenant essentiellement de l'acide nicotinique ou du nicotinamide ainsi qu'un intermédiaire ou précurseur de céramides, utilisées uniquement pour l'hydra- tation de la peau et non pour sa dépigmentation. Par ailleurs, on sait que des bases sphingoïdes telles que la phytosphingosine et la sphingosine, précurseurs de céramides, sont présentes dans la peau humaine, et des études ont montré que ces molécules ont des propriétés inhibitrices de la protéine kinase C, et semblent impliquées dans la différenciation des kératinocytes de l'épiderme. On a également observé que des sphingosines présentes dans le stratum corneum et d'autres couches de l'épiderme, inhibent la croissance de certains micro-organismes indésirables. Diverses publications décrivent l'utilisation de la sphingosine et de la phytosphingosine dans des compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques. Par exemple, la demande de brevet WO 95.03028 décrit la sphingosine, utilisée dans une composition à pH voisin de 5, pour réduire l'effet irritant de certains alpha-hydroxy-acides. Le brevet EP 940.140 décrit une composition cosmétique associant des alpha-hydroxy-acides et des céramides ou des précurseurs de céramides tels que la phytosphingosine. Cependant, à ce jour, les bases sphingoïdes ne se sont pas révélées efficaces en tant qu'agents dépig- mentants. La demande EP 919.226 concerne une composition cosmétique à base de salicylate de phytosphingosine susceptible d'avoir des propriétés anti-acnéiques, antirides ou éclaircissantes de la peau. La composition peut aussi contenir divers ingrédients usuels de la technique tels que des vitamines A, C et E, utilisées en fonction de leurs propriétés bien connues. Il est par ailleurs connu de la demande de brevet WO 02/085362 qu'une composition comprenant essentiellement l'acide nicotinique ou un amide d'acide nicotinique et une base sphingoïde est utile pour le traitement des troubles de la kératinisation en dermatologie humaine ou animale. En particulier, cette association, et notamment celle d'un amide d'acide nicotinique tel que la vitamine PP, et d'une base sphingoïde, est décrite comme utile dans le traitement de l'acné, notamment l'acné vulgaris, et de la dermite atopique. Par conséquent, il existe un besoin accru dans le domaine cosmétologique de trouver des méthodes alternatives de traitement de l'hyperpigmentation, et donc d'identifier des composés possédant des propriétés dépigmentantes. Les études effectuées par la demanderesse ont montré un effet synergique sur la dépigmentation en associant l'acide nicotinique ou un amide d'acide nicotinique tel que la vitamine PP, et une base sphingoïde au sein de la même composition.The present invention relates to a new use of a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base. PRIOR ART Depigmentation of the skin may be desired under various circumstances, either for a global lightening thereof, or to eliminate or attenuate spots resulting from local pigmentation disorders. The pigmentation of the skin is determined by the presence of melanin in the epidermis and the dermis. Melanin is produced by melanocytes located mainly in the basal layer. These melanocytes send dendritic extensions everywhere, between the keratinocytes. The enzyme tyrosinase is needed to produce melanin. This biosynthesis, also called melanogenesis, is a complex process which is now relatively well known. Thus, the pigmentation is normally uniform. However, pigmentation can be excessive locally, what is commonly called hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation of the skin can include blemishes or disorders of the skin including freckles, senile lentigo, melasma, age spots, pigmentation due to sunburn, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to l , burns, wounds, insect bites, dermatitis, and other small local pigmented lesions. Many cosmetic treatment methods for hyperpigmentation exist but none is completely satisfactory. There are indeed methods of exfoliation, including chemical exfoliation, or methods having an impact on melanogenesis, using depigmenting agents. The depigmenting agents commonly used act directly on the vitality of the epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place and / or interfere with one of the stages of melanin biosynthesis either by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis, or by intercalating as an analogue. structural of one of the chemical compounds in the melanin synthesis chain, which chain can then be blocked and thus ensure depigmentation. Depigmenting agents can be divided into several groups: Phenolic compounds, which include in particular the following compounds: • Hydroquinone and its ethers such as monobenzyl ether, • 4-methoxyphenol, • 4-isopropylcatechol, • 4-hydroxyanisole and, • N -acetyl-4-S-cystaminylphenol, - Non-phenolic compounds, which include in particular the following compounds: • Corticosteroids, • Tretinoin, • Azelaic acid, • N-acetylcysteine (NAC), • Ascorbic acid and derivatives such as L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate and, • Kojic acid, Combinations of these compounds, among which there may be mentioned the Kligman formulation, the Pathak formulation or the Westerhof formulation. In addition, nicotinamide or niacinamide, also called vitamin PP, vitamin B3 or niacin, is known for its depigmenting properties. Application WO 99.47114 also describes compositions essentially comprising nicotinic acid or nicotinamide as well as an intermediate or precursor of ceramides, used only for hydration of the skin and not for its depigmentation. Furthermore, it is known that sphingoid bases such as phytosphingosine and sphingosine, precursors of ceramides, are present in human skin, and studies have shown that these molecules have inhibitory properties of protein kinase C, and seem to be involved in differentiation of keratinocytes of the epidermis. It has also been observed that sphingosines present in the stratum corneum and other layers of the epidermis inhibit the growth of certain undesirable microorganisms. Various publications describe the use of sphingosine and phytosphingosine in cosmetic and dermatological compositions. For example, patent application WO 95.03028 describes sphingosine, used in a composition with a pH close to 5, to reduce the irritant effect of certain alpha-hydroxy acids. Patent EP 940,140 describes a cosmetic composition combining alpha-hydroxy acids and ceramides or precursors of ceramides such as phytosphingosine. To date, however, sphingoid bases have not been found to be effective as depigrants. EP 919,226 relates to a cosmetic composition based on phytosphingosine salicylate capable of having anti-acne, anti-wrinkle or lightening properties. the skin. The composition can also contain various usual ingredients of the technique such as vitamins A, C and E, used according to their well known properties. It is also known from patent application WO 02/085362 that a composition essentially comprising nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and a sphingoid base is useful for the treatment of keratinization disorders in human or animal dermatology . In particular, this association, and in particular that of a nicotinic acid amide such as vitamin PP, and of a sphingoid base, is described as useful in the treatment of acne, in particular acne vulgaris, and of atopic dermatitis. Consequently, there is an increased need in the cosmetics field to find alternative methods of treating hyperpigmentation, and therefore to identify compounds having depigmenting properties. The studies carried out by the applicant have shown a synergistic effect on depigmentation by combining nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid such as vitamin PP, and a sphingoid base within the same composition.
La présente invention L'invention a donc pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition comprenant une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde à titre d'agent dépigmentant. L'invention a encore pour objet une méthode de dépigmentation de la peau, consistant à appliquer sur les zones exposées une composition comprenant une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde. On parle parfois dans la littérature pour un composé utile dans le domaine cosmétique de « propriétés éclair- cissantes » pour la peau ; dans le cadre de la présente invention, les « propriétés dépigmentantes » comprennent, outre les propriétés permettant de lutter contre l'hyperpigmentation, également ces « propriétés éclaircissantes ». Par conséquent, l'invention a plus particulièrement pour objet l'utilisation d'une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde pour favoriser l'éclaircissement de la peau ainsi que la méthode de traitement cosmétique associée. L'invention a donc aussi plus particulièrement comme objet l'utilisation d'une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde pour lutter contre l'hyperpigmentation de la peau ainsi que la méthode de traitement cosmétique associée. Autrement dit, l'invention concerne également une méthode de traitement cosmétique de la peau destinée à réduire, supprimer ou éviter les tâches de pigmentation, en procurant un effet dépigmentant ou éclaircissant consistant à appliquer sur les zones exposées une composition comprenant une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde. L'invention a enfin pour objet l'utilisation d'une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde, pour la préparation d'une composition dermatologique destinée à lutter contre l'hyperpigmentation. L' amide d'acide nicotinique peut être de préférence le nicotinamide ou vitamine PP. La base sphingoïde peut être choisie parmi la sphingosine, la sphinganine, la phytosphingosine, la salicyloyl phytosphingosine, le salicylate de phytosphingosine, la tétracétylphytosphingosine, la N-acétyl- phytosphingosine et le chlorhydrate de phytosphingosine. Suivant l'invention, la base sphingoïde préférée est la phytosphingosine, la salicyloyl phytosphingosine (N-salicyloyl phytosphingosine) ou le chlorhydrate de phytosphingosine. L'acide nicotinique, ou l' amide d'acide nicotinique peut être utilisé à raison de 0,1 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 1 à 10 %. La teneur en base sphingoïde peut varier selon la base utilisée, mais elle est généralement comprise entre 0,01 % et 5 %, de préférence entre 0,05 et 2 %. L'acide nicotinique et 1 ' amide d'acide nicotinique, notamment la vitamine PP, ainsi que les bases sphingoïdes utilisées dans les compositions de la présente invention sont généralement disponibles dans le commerce et peuvent être obtenues par des méthodes connues à partir de diverses sources appropriées. Par exemple les bases sphingoïdes peuvent être obtenues à partir de sources naturelles ou par synthèse chimique ou par fermentation. Elles peuvent aussi être obtenues à partir de tissus animaux ou végétaux par extraction et purification. De préférence, les bases sphingoïdes utilisées dans l'invention sont préparées par fermentation microbienne, par exemple à partir d'une levure telle que Pichia ciferii, et la phytosphingosine obtenue de la sorte présente l'avantage d'être très proche de celle de la peau humaine ou animale. Suivant une forme préférentielle de réalisation de l'invention, on utilise comme base sphingoïde la phytosphingosine obtenue à partir de tétra-acétyl-phytosphingosine par desacetylation. La réaction de desacetylation peut s'effectuer par réaction chimique, par exemple par hydrolyse en milieu basique, ou par réaction enzymatique. Les essais effectués sur l'utilisation selon la présente invention des compositions décrites ci-dessus ont mis en évidence une synergie d'action tout particulièrement entre la vitamine PP et la phytosphingosine, procurant une potentia- lisation de l'activité dépigmentante. La vitamine PP agirait principalement par un mécanisme d'inhibition du transfert de mélanine vers le kératinocyte tandis que la phytosphingosine inhiberait la translocation du NFkappaB après une exposition aux UV. On peut incorporer dans les compositions dont l'utilisation est l'objet de la présente invention un autre agent dépigmentant dont une liste d'exemples a été fournie plus haut en introduction. On peut également associer aux compositions selon la présente invention des exfoliants et notamment l'acide lactique. Toutes ces variantes de compositions font également partie de l'invention. Les excipients et supports utilisables dans les compo- sitions conformes à la présente invention sont ceux couramment utilisés dans les préparations à usage cosmétique, et choisis en fonction de la forme d'administration retenue. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer des gélifiants, des émulsionnants, des épaississants, des conservateurs, des adoucissants, ainsi que des parfums. On peut choisir l'agent émulsionnant parmi des polymères carboxyvinyliques à haut poids moléculaire tels que le Carbopol®, des polysorbates tels que ceux commercialisés sous les marques T een 20® ou Tween 60®, des esters de sorbitan et par exemple un stéarate, un palmitate, un oléate ou un laurate de sorbitan (par exemple l'Arlacel®). On peut encore utiliser comme agents émulsionnants divers dérivés d'acide stéarique ou palmitique tels que le stéarate de glycérol, un stéarate de propylène glycol, un stéarate de polyéthylène glycol, le stéarate de PEG 100®, un stéareth ou un cétéareth, ou encore le polyglycéryl-2-sesquioléate, l'éther cétylique de polyoxy- éthylène, un polyglucoside de siloxane, ou une silicone émul- sionnable. Les gélifiants et épaississants sont incorporés dans la composition pour en améliorer la fluidité. Ils peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les polyacrylamides du type Carbopol, les copolymères acrylate/acide acrylique et par exemple l'Aculyn®, les dérivés de cellulose comme 1 'hydroxypropyl cellulose et par exemple le Klucel®, des muco-polysaccharides végétaux, les cires comme la cire d'abeille, les argiles ou les gommes naturelles comme la gomme de xanthane . Les adoucissants peuvent être choisis parmi les alcools gras ou les esters, et par exemple les produits à base d'alcool isostéarylique ou de sorbitol polysaccharidique commercialisés sous les marques Soothex® et Rhamnosoft®. D'une manière générale, les adoucissants usuels de la technique peuvent convenir dans l'invention. Des agents de protection contre les rayons ultra-violets peuvent également être ajoutés aux compositions dont l'utilisation est l'objet de la présente invention. Ces agents de protection peuvent être par exemple des filtres solaires UV-A et UV-B hydrophiles ou lipophiles qui peuvent être choisis parmi la benzophenone ou un dérivé de benzophenone tel que la 2-hydroxy-4-méthoxy-benzophénone (Eusolex® 4360), ou un ester d'acide cinnamique et plus particulièrement le méthoxycinnamate d'octyle (Eusolex® 2292), le méthoxycinnamate d' éthyl-2-hexyle (Parsol MCX®) , ou encore un cyano-β,β-di- phénylacrylate tel que 1 ' octocrylène (Eusolex® OCR), le 4- méthylbenzylidène camphre (Eusolex 6300®) , et des dérivés du dibenzoylméthane tels que le 4-isopropyl dibenzoylméthane (Eusolex 8020) , le t-butyl-méthoxy dibenzoylméthane (ParsolThe present invention The subject of the invention is therefore the use of a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base as depigmenting agent . The subject of the invention is also a method of depigmentation of the skin, consisting in applying to the exposed areas a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one base. sphingoid. We sometimes speak in the literature for a compound useful in the cosmetic field of "lightning properties- "cissant" for the skin; in the context of the present invention, the "depigmenting properties" include, in addition to the properties making it possible to combat hyperpigmentation, also these "lightening properties". Consequently, the subject of the invention is more particularly the use of a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and of at least one sphingoid base to promote lightening of the skin as well as the associated cosmetic treatment method. A more particular subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base to combat hyperpigmentation of the skin as well as the associated cosmetic treatment method. In other words, the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin intended to reduce, eliminate or avoid pigmentation spots, by providing a depigmenting or lightening effect consisting in applying to the exposed areas a composition comprising a combination of minus nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base. A subject of the invention is finally the use of a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base, for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended for combating against hyperpigmentation. The nicotinic acid amide may preferably be nicotinamide or vitamin PP. The sphingoid base can be chosen from sphingosine, sphinganine, phytosphingosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine, phytosphingosine salicylate, tetracetylphytosphingosine, N-acetyl phytosphingosine and phytosphingosine hydrochloride. According to the invention, the preferred sphingoid base is phytosphingosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine (N-salicyloyl phytosphingosine) or phytosphingosine hydrochloride. The nicotinic acid, or the nicotinic acid amide can be used in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 10%. The sphingoid base content can vary depending on the base used, but it is generally between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05 and 2%. Nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide, especially vitamin PP, as well as the sphingoid bases used in the compositions of the present invention are generally commercially available and can be obtained by known methods from various sources. appropriate. For example, the sphingoid bases can be obtained from natural sources or by chemical synthesis or by fermentation. They can also be obtained from animal or plant tissues by extraction and purification. Preferably, the sphingoid bases used in the invention are prepared by microbial fermentation, for example from a yeast such as Pichia ciferii, and the phytosphingosine obtained in this way has the advantage of being very close to that of the human or animal skin. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the phytosphingosine obtained from tetra-acetyl-phytosphingosine by deacetylation is used as the sphingoid base. The deacetylation reaction can be carried out by chemical reaction, for example by hydrolysis in basic medium, or by enzymatic reaction. The tests carried out on the use according to the present invention of the compositions described above have demonstrated a synergy of action, particularly between the vitamin PP and phytosphingosine, providing a potentiation of depigmenting activity. Vitamin PP would act mainly by a mechanism of inhibition of the transfer of melanin towards the keratinocyte while phytosphingosine would inhibit the translocation of NFkappaB after exposure to UV. Another depigmenting agent may be incorporated into the compositions the use of which is the subject of the present invention, a list of examples of which has been provided above in the introduction. It is also possible to combine with the compositions according to the present invention exfoliants and in particular lactic acid. All these variant compositions are also part of the invention. The excipients and carriers which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the present invention are those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration used. By way of example, mention may be made of gelling agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, softeners, as well as perfumes. One can choose the emulsifying agent from carboxyvinyl polymers of high molecular weight such as Carbopol ®, polysorbates such as those marketed under the trademark T een 20 ® or Tween 60 ®, sorbitan esters and, for example a stearate, palmitate, a sorbitan oleate or laurate (for example Arlacel ® ). It is also possible to use, as emulsifying agents, various derivatives of stearic or palmitic acid such as glycerol stearate, propylene glycol stearate, polyethylene glycol stearate, PEG 100® stearate, steareth or ceteareth, or alternatively polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, a polyglucoside of siloxane, or an emulsifiable silicone. The gelling agents and thickeners are incorporated into the composition to improve the fluidity. They can be chosen for example from polyacrylamides of the Carbopol type, acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers and for example Aculyn®, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose and for example Klucel®, vegetable mucopolysaccharides, waxes like beeswax, clays or natural gums like xanthan gum. The softeners can be chosen from fatty alcohols or esters, and for example products based on isostearyl alcohol or polysaccharide sorbitol sold under the brands Soothex® and Rhamnosoft®. In general, the usual softeners of the technique may be suitable in the invention. Protective agents against ultraviolet rays can also be added to the compositions, the use of which is the subject of the present invention. These protective agents can for example be hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sun filters which can be chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex® 4360) , or an ester of cinnamic acid and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex® 2292), ethyl-2-hexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX®), or alternatively a cyano-β, β-di-phenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex® OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300®), and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol
1789®), et le 4-méthoxy-dibenzoylméthane . On peut aussi ajouter aux compositions dont l'utilisation est l'objet de la présente invention des pigments formant un écran anti-ultraviolet, qui peuvent par exemple être choisis parmi le dioxyde de titane (amorphe ou cristallisé sous forme rutile ou anatase) , l'oxyde de zinc, de zirconium ou encore d'aluminium. On peut en particulier utiliser des nanopigments d'oxydes métalliques de taille de particules comprise entre 5 et 100 nm. Un solvant capable de faciliter ou d'améliorer la pénétration des principes actifs dans la peau peut aussi être avantageusement inclus dans les compositions de l'invention, et par exemple on peut utiliser un dérivé de glycérol amphi- phile non ionique tel que le 1, 2-O-isopropylidèneglycérol (Solketal) . Les compositions pour la mise en œuvre de l'invention peuvent se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques usuelles adaptées à l'indication dermatologique ou cosméto- logique, pour application topique. Elles peuvent se présenter par exemple sous forme de solutions aqueuses, huileuses ou hydro-alcooliques, de dispersions, de sérums, de gels (aqueux, anhydres ou lipophiles) , de lotions micellaires, de lotions hydro-alcooliques, de solutions pour pulvérisation, de suspensions, de dispersions vésiculaires ioniques ou non ioniques, d'emulsions liquides ou semi-liquides (par exemple un lait), solides ou semi-solides. Les émulsions peuvent être du type huile dans eau (H/E) ou eau dans huile (E/H) , par exemple des gels ou des crèmes. Les compositions dont l'utilisation est l'objet de la présente invention peuvent être appliquées directement sur la peau à raison d'une ou plusieurs applications par jour pendant une durée adaptée à la durée de l'affection. Par exemple, dans le cas du traitement de taches de pigmentation d'intensité moyenne chez un sujet de 50 à 60 ans, de bons résultats peuvent être obtenus en appliquant une composition suivant l'invention deux fois par jour pendant une période ininterrompue de 6 à 8 semaines. Les exemples qui suivent illustrent la présente invention, sans toutefois la limiter.1789®), and 4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane. It is also possible to add to the compositions the use of which is the subject of the present invention pigments forming an anti-ultraviolet screen, which can for example be chosen from titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystallized in the form rutile or anatase), zinc oxide, zirconium or aluminum. In particular, nanopigments of metal oxides with a particle size between 5 and 100 nm can be used. A solvent capable of facilitating or improving the penetration of the active principles into the skin can also advantageously be included in the compositions of the invention, and for example one can use a non-ionic amphiphilic glycerol derivative such as 1, 2-O-isopropylidene glycerol (Solketal). The compositions for implementing the invention can be in all the usual dosage forms suitable for dermatological or cosmetic indication, for topical application. They can be, for example, in the form of aqueous, oily or hydroalcoholic solutions, dispersions, sera, gels (aqueous, anhydrous or lipophilic), micellar lotions, hydroalcoholic lotions, spray solutions, suspensions, ionic or nonionic vesicular dispersions, liquid or semi-liquid emulsions (for example milk), solid or semi-solid. The emulsions can be of the oil in water (O / W) or water in oil (W / O) type, for example gels or creams. The compositions, the use of which is the subject of the present invention, can be applied directly to the skin at the rate of one or more applications per day for a duration adapted to the duration of the affection. For example, in the case of the treatment of pigmentation spots of medium intensity in a subject 50 to 60 years old, good results can be obtained by applying a composition according to the invention twice a day for an uninterrupted period of 6 to 8 weeks. The examples which follow illustrate the present invention, without however limiting it.
Exemple 1 Une étude en aveugle sur des volontaires a été réalisée en période ensoleillée (8 volontaires par produit) . Cette étude repose sur une évaluation globale des paramètres de couleur de la peau dorsale des mains sur un mode « avant » versus « après » utilisation. Les produits ont été appliqués sur l'ensemble de la main et l'effet a été évalué au niveau de taches pigmentaires pré-sélectionnées et au niveau d'une zone ne présentant pas de tache (dénommée site « témoin ») . Chaque volontaire a utilisé une crème de protection solaire sur les mains afin de minimiser le risque d'une hyperpigmentation susceptible d'apparaître sous l'influence des rayonnements ultraviolets liés à l'ensoleillement durant l'expérimentation. Les paramètres suivants ont été étudiés : géométrie des taches (taille) , indice mélanique sur la tache et sur le site « témoin » et, - luminance (L*) sur la tache et sur le site « témoin ». L'analyse concerne l'évolution des paramètres entre le premier et le dernier jour de l'étude pour les produits appliqués . La composition des produits étudiés est la suivante :Example 1 A blind study on volunteers was carried out during the sunny period (8 volunteers per product). This study is based on a global evaluation of the color parameters of the back skin of the hands in a “before” versus “after” use mode. The products were applied to the entire hand and the effect was evaluated at the level of pre-selected pigment spots and at the level of an area free from stains (called the "control" site). Each volunteer used a sun protection cream on the hands to minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation which could appear under the influence of ultraviolet radiation linked to sunlight during the experiment. The following parameters were studied: geometry of the spots (size), melanic index on the spot and on the "control" site and, - luminance (L *) on the spot and on the "control" site. The analysis concerns the evolution of the parameters between the first and the last day of the study for the applied products. The composition of the products studied is as follows:
Vitaminé PP Dépigmentant Formule 1 0 g, o 0 % Formule 2 5 Q. 0 Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 0, 1% Formule 3 5 g. Ό Formule 4 0 o. o Arlatone dioïc Formule 5 0 Ό Albatin Ainsi, la formule 1 est la formule placebo, la formule 2 repose sur la « base active » contenant de la vitamine PP à la concentration de 5 %, dans laquelle une base sphingoïde a été ajoutée, tandis que la formule 3 contient la même dose de vitamine PP sans phytosphingosine. Les formules 4 et 5 sont des compositions disponibles dans le commerce contenant des dépigmentants répertoriés, à savoir l'acide octadécène dioïque (Arlatone dioic) et l'acide aminoéthylphosphinique (Albatin) . Les résultats obtenus montrent que : - Pour les formulations 1, 2 et 3, la géométrie des taches n'évolue pas significativement au cours du temps. - La luminance (L*) de la peau augmente (la couleur de la peau s'éclaircit) au niveau des taches et au niveau de la zone « témoin » pour la formule 2. - L'indice melanique diminue (moins de mélanine est présente) au niveau de la tache et au niveau de la zone « témoin » pour la formule 2. Pour la formule placebo (formule 1) et pour la formule 3 contenant de la vitamine PP sans phytosphingosine, au cours du temps, l'indice melanique augmente notablement et de manière comparable malgré l'usage du produit solaire. Il en est de même pour les formules 4 et 5 qui n'ont pas d'incidence sensible sur l'indice melanique et sur la luminance. Par contre, lors de l'utilisation de la formule 2, on observe une diminution de cet indice melanique. La diminution observée est plus intense sur les taches pigmentaires qu'au niveau de la « zone témoin ». Il faut également souligner que 63% des volontaires (5 sur 8) ont signalé pour la formule 2 une diminution de la couleur des taches qui est cotée « oui, nettement », et « oui, probablement ». Globalement cette étude confirme l'intérêt de l'association vitamine PP et Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 0,1 % à titre d'agent dépigmentant. De plus, une étude comparative de l'activité antityro- sinase a permis de mettre en évidence la potentialisation de l'effet dépigmentant résultant de la combinaison de la vitamine PP et de la phytosphingosine. L'activité antityrosinase est reconnue comme un indicateur in vitro de l'activité dépigmentante d'une composition. Les essais sont effectués en comparant deux formules dépigmentantes connues disponibles dans le commerce (A et B) et une formule conforme à l'invention (formule C) : Formule A : composition du commerce (TRIO D®) Formule B : composition du commerce (TRIO A®) Formule C : identique à l'Exemple 5 ci-dessous Le TRIO D est une composition dépigmentante à base de lactate d'ammonium, d'acide ascorbique et de glabridine à la concentration de 0,1%. Le TRIO A comprend les mêmes principes actifs et de la glabridine à la concentration de 0,2%. La formule C de l'invention contient la même concentration de glabridine, qui est un composé connu pour son activité antityrosinase. Les essais. sont effectués suivant les techniques classiques de mesure, les compositions étant en solution ethanolique tamponnée à pH 6,8 contenant 500 μl de solution de tyrosine et 500 μl de solution de tyrosinase, et le témoin utilisé est identique mais ne contient pas de dépigmentant. Un blanc témoin est identique au témoin mais la tyrosinase est remplacée par une même quantité d'eau. De même un blanc essai est préparé en utilisant le même échantillon de formule à tester mais en remplaçant la tyrosinase par une même quantité d'eau. On laisse incuber 1 heure au bain-marie à 37 °C à l'abri de la lumière puis on refroidit les tubes contenant les formules testées sur bain d'eau froide à environ 18 °C. L'absorbance des solutions est mesurée à 475 n en cuve de 10 mm. Les résultats sont regroupés au tableau suivant.Vitamin PP Depigmenting Formula 1 0 g, 0% Formula 2 5 Q. 0 Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 0, 1% Formula 3 5 g. Ό Formula 4 0 o. o Arlatone dioïc Formula 5 0 Ό Albatin Thus, formula 1 is the placebo formula, formula 2 is based on the “active base” containing vitamin PP at a concentration of 5%, in which a sphingoid base has been added, while formula 3 contains the same dose of vitamin PP without phytosphingosine. Formulas 4 and 5 are commercially available compositions containing listed depigmentants, namely octadecene dioic acid (Arlatone dioic) and aminoethylphosphinic acid (Albatin). The results obtained show that: - For formulations 1, 2 and 3, the geometry of the spots does not change significantly over time. - The luminance (L *) of the skin increases (the color of the skin becomes lighter) at the level of the spots and at the level of the “control” zone for formula 2. - The melanic index decreases (less melanin is present) at the spot level and at the level of the "control" zone for formula 2. For the placebo formula (formula 1) and for the formula 3 containing vitamin PP without phytosphingosine, over time, the index melanique increases notably and in a comparable way in spite of the use of the solar product. The same is true for formulas 4 and 5 which have no appreciable effect on the melanic index and on the luminance. On the other hand, when using formula 2, a decrease in this melanic index is observed. The decrease observed is more intense on the pigment spots than in the "control zone". It should also be noted that 63% of volunteers (5 out of 8) reported for formula 2 a decrease in the color of the spots, which is rated "yes, clearly", and "yes, probably". Overall, this study confirms the interest of the association vitamin PP and Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 0.1% as depigmenting agent. In addition, a comparative study of the antityro-sinase activity made it possible to highlight the potentiation of the depigmenting effect resulting from the combination of vitamin PP and phytosphingosine. The antityrosinase activity is recognized as an in vitro indicator of the depigmenting activity of a composition. The tests are carried out by comparing two depigmenting formulas known commercially available (A and B) and a formula in accordance with the invention (formula C): Formula A: commercial composition (TRIO D ® ) Formula B: commercial composition ( TRIO A ® ) Formula C: identical to Example 5 below TRIO D is a depigmenting composition based on ammonium lactate, ascorbic acid and glabridin at a concentration of 0.1%. TRIO A includes the same active ingredients and glabridin at a concentration of 0.2%. Formula C of the invention contains the same concentration of glabridin, which is a compound known for its antityrosinase activity. Attempts. are carried out according to conventional measurement techniques, the compositions being in ethanolic solution buffered to pH 6.8 containing 500 μl of tyrosine solution and 500 μl of tyrosinase solution, and the control used is identical but does not contain depigmentant. A blank control is identical to the control but the tyrosinase is replaced by the same amount of water. Similarly, a blank test is prepared using the same sample of formula to be tested but by replacing the tyrosinase with the same amount of water. It is left to incubate for 1 hour in a water bath at 37 ° C protected from light and then the tubes containing the formulas tested are cooled in a cold water bath to about 18 ° C. The absorbance of the solutions is measured at 475 n in a 10 mm tank. The results are collated in the following table.
Le taux moyen d'inhibition pour une quantité de produit de lmg a été obtenu en faisant la moyenne des mesures de chaque formule (3 mesures par formule) rapportée à une quantité de produit de 1 mg. On constate donc que la formule C selon l'invention présente une activité antityrosinase notablement plus élevée que les formules de référence, entraînant un pouvoir dépigmen- tant plus important. On constate en particulier que le taux d'inhibition est doublé par rapport à la formule B qui contient la même teneur en glabridine. Ceci démontre l'effet de l'association de vitamine PP et de phytosphingosine sur la dépigmentation . Les exemples qui suivent ont trait à des formulations contenant une association dont l'utilisation est objet de la présente demande de brevet. Les noms des composants sont issus de la nomenclature INCI . Exemple 2 EMULSION DEPIGMENTANTEThe average inhibition rate for an amount of lmg product was obtained by averaging the measurements of each formula (3 measurements per formula) compared to an amount of product of 1 mg. It is therefore found that the formula C according to the invention has a significantly higher antityrosinase activity than the reference formulas, resulting in a greater depigmatory power. It is noted in particular that the inhibition rate is doubled compared to formula B which contains the same glabridin content. This demonstrates the effect of the combination of vitamin PP and phytosphingosine on depigmentation. The examples which follow relate to formulations containing an association the use of which is the subject of the present patent application. The names of the components are taken from the INCI nomenclature. EXAMPLE 2 DEPIGMENTING EMULSION
Capric/càprylic triglycéride 5, .00%Capric / càprylic triglyceride 5, .00%
PPG-15 stearyl ether 5, .00% Arachidyl alcohol (et) behenyl alcoholPPG-15 stearyl ether 5, .00% Arachidyl alcohol (et) behenyl alcohol
(et) arachidyl glucoside 3, .00% salicyloyl phytosphingosine o, .10%(and) arachidyl glucoside 3, .00% salicyloyl phytosphingosine o, .10%
PEG-100 stéarate (et) glyceryl stéarate 1, .50%PEG-100 stearate (and) glyceryl stearate 1, .50%
Cethyl alcohol 1, .00% Dimethicone 11 .00%Cethyl alcohol 1, .00% Dimethicone 11 .00%
Aqua qsp 100Aqua qs 100
Xanthane Gum o, .30%Xanthane Gum o, .30%
Conservateurs qspPreservatives qs
Parfum qsp Nicotinamide 5, ,00%Perfume qs Nicotinamide 5, 00%
Acide Lactique 5, ,00%Lactic Acid 5, .00%
Base qsp pH= =4,5Base qs pH = = 4.5
Exemple 3 EMULSION DEPIGMENTANTE Capric/caprylic triglycéride 5,00%EXAMPLE 3 DEPIGMENTING EMULSION Capric / caprylic triglyceride 5.00%
PPG-15 stearyl ether 5,00%PPG-15 stearyl ether 5.00%
Isopropyl palmitate 4,00% salicyloyl phytosphingosine 0,10% steareth-2 3,00% steareth-21 2,00%Isopropyl palmitate 4.00% salicyloyl phytosphingosine 0.10% steareth-2 3.00% steareth-21 2.00%
PEG-100 stéarate (et) glyceryl stéarate 1,00%PEG-100 stearate (and) glyceryl stearate 1.00%
Cetyl alcohol 1,00%Cetyl alcohol 1.00%
Dimethicone 1,00%Dimethicone 1.00%
Aqua qsp 100 Xanthane Gum 0,30%Aqua qsp 100 Xanthane Gum 0.30%
Conservateurs qspPreservatives qs
Parfum qspPerfume qs
Glabridine 0,20% Nicotinamide 5,00%Glabridin 0.20% Nicotinamide 5.00%
Undecylanoyl phenylalanine 2,00%Undecylanoyl phenylalanine 2.00%
Acide/base qsp pH=4,5Acid / base qs pH = 4.5
Exemple 4 GEL ALCOOLIQUEEXAMPLE 4 ALCOHOLIC GEL
Alcool qsp 100Alcohol qs 100
Cyclopentasiloxane 13,00%Cyclopentasiloxane 13.00%
Propylène glycol 16,00%Propylene glycol 16.00%
Nicotinamide 4,00% C12/15 alkyl benzoate 12,00%Nicotinamide 4.00% C12 / 15 alkyl benzoate 12.00%
Glabridine 0,20%Glabridin 0.20%
Salicyloyl phytosphingosine 0,20%Salicyloyl phytosphingosine 0.20%
Exemple 5 SOLUTION Capric/caprylic triglycéride 12,00%EXAMPLE 5 SOLUTION Capric / caprylic triglyceride 12.00%
Solketal 48,00%Solketal 48.00%
Phytosphingosine 0,10%Phytosphingosine 0.10%
Nicotinamide 5,00%Nicotinamide 5.00%
Alcool qsp 100 Alcohol qs 100

Claims

Revendications claims
1. Utilisation d'une composition comprenant une association d'au moins l'acide nicotinique ou un amide de l'acide nicotinique et d'au moins une base sphingoïde à titre d'agent dépigmentant. - 2. Utilisation selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la base sphingoïde est choisie parmi la sphingosine, la sphinganine, la phytosphingosine, la salicyloyl phytosphingosine, le salicylate de phytosphingosine, la tétracétyl- phytosphingosine, la N-acétylphytosphingosine et le chlorhy- drate de phytosphingosine. 3. Utilisation selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que la base sphingoïde est choisie parmi la phytosphingosine, la salicyloyl phytosphingosine ou le chlorhydrate de phytosphingosine. 4. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que 1 ' amide d'acide nicotinique est le nicotinamide. 5. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en base sphingoïde dans la composition est comprise entre 0,01 % et 5 % par rapport au poids total de la composition. 6. Utilisation selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en base sphingoïde est comprise entre 0,05 % et 2 % .par rapport au poids total de la composition. 7. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en acide nicotinique, ou en amide d'acide nicotinique, dans la composition est comprise entre 0,1 et 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 8. Utilisation selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en acide nicotinique, ou en amide d'acide nicotinique, dans la composition est comprise entre 1 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 9. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 pour favoriser l'éclaircissement de la peau. 10. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 pour lutter contre l'hyperpigmentation. 11. Méthode de traitement cosmétique de la peau destinée à réduire, supprimer ou éviter les tâches de pigmentation, en procurant un effet dépigmentant consistant à appliquer sur les zones exposées une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8. 12. Méthode de traitement cosmétique selon la revendication 11, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est destinée à favoriser l'éclaircissement de la peau. 13. Méthode de traitement cosmétique selon la revendication 11, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est destinée à lutter contre l'hyperpigmentation de la peau. 14. Utilisation d'une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 pour la préparation ' d'une composition dermatologique destinée à lutter contre l' hyperpigmentation . 1. Use of a composition comprising a combination of at least nicotinic acid or an amide of nicotinic acid and at least one sphingoid base as depigmenting agent. - 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the sphingoid base is chosen from sphingosine, sphinganine, phytosphingosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine, phytosphingosine salicylate, tetracetyl-phytosphingosine, N-acetylphytosphingosine and chlorhy- phytosphingosine drate. 3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the sphingoid base is chosen from phytosphingosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine or phytosphingosine hydrochloride. 4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nicotinic acid amide is nicotinamide. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the content of sphingoid base in the composition is between 0.01% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the content of sphingoid base is between 0.05% and 2% . relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the content of nicotinic acid, or of nicotinic acid amide, in the composition is between 0.1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the content of nicotinic acid, or of acid amide nicotinic, in the composition is between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to promote lightening of the skin. 10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for combating hyperpigmentation. 11. Cosmetic treatment method for the skin intended to reduce, eliminate or avoid pigmentation spots, by providing a depigmenting effect consisting in applying to the exposed areas a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8. 12 Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 11, characterized in that it is intended to promote lightening of the skin. 13. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 11, characterized in that it is intended to combat hyperpigmentation of the skin. 14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended to combat hyperpigmentation.
EP05753773A 2004-04-09 2005-04-08 Use of a sphingoid base associated with nicotinic acid or a nicotinic acid amide in the form of a depigmentation agent Withdrawn EP1737457A2 (en)

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FR0403740A FR2868702B1 (en) 2004-04-09 2004-04-09 USE OF A SPHINGOID BASE ASSOCIATED WITH NICOTINIC ACID OR AN AMIDE OF NICOTINIC ACID AS DEPIGMENTING AGENT
PCT/FR2005/000864 WO2005102337A2 (en) 2004-04-09 2005-04-08 Use of a sphingoid base associated with nicotinic acid or a nicotinic acid amide in the form of a depigmentation agent

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FR2823671B1 (en) * 2001-04-23 2004-01-09 Dermaconcept Jmc DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING NICOTINIC ACID OR AN AMIDE, AND A SPHINGOID BASE
FR2894961B1 (en) * 2005-12-16 2008-05-16 Oreal USE OF CERAMIDES FOR DEPIGMENTING THE SKIN
FR2906143B1 (en) * 2006-09-21 2010-01-22 Etienne Pierre Dominiq Soudant COSMETIC, PHARMACEUTICAL AND DERMATOLOGICAL BINARY TREATMENT METHOD FOR SYNCHRONIZING OR RESYNCHRONIZING THE SKIN AND THE WHOLE ORGANISM
FR2906139A1 (en) * 2006-09-21 2008-03-28 Davines France Sarl Binary treatment to fight against the signs of skin aging and to eliminate undesirable cell growth, comprises applying a night formulation to stimulate and/or activate sirtuins and applying a day formulation to inhibit the same sirtuins
EP2448548B1 (en) * 2010-07-22 2017-03-01 The Procter and Gamble Company Method for improving the appearance of hyperpigmented spot(s) using an extract of laminaria saccharina
JP5726481B2 (en) * 2010-10-29 2015-06-03 日本精化株式会社 Cosmetic or skin external preparation containing hydroxynicotinic acid or a derivative thereof
DE102011109546A1 (en) * 2011-08-03 2013-02-07 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Use of sphinganine to improve the visual appearance of the skin and hair
MY195546A (en) * 2018-03-09 2023-01-31 Ocusoft Inc Topical Skin Care Compositions
FR3100129A1 (en) * 2019-08-26 2021-03-05 Laboratoire Promicea New anti-hyperpigmentation spot composition

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US5882665A (en) * 1997-11-18 1999-03-16 Elizabeth Arden Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Phytosphingosine salicylates in cosmetic compositions
WO1999047114A1 (en) * 1998-03-16 1999-09-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Moisturizing compositions
JP2001010926A (en) * 1999-06-28 2001-01-16 Kao Corp Bleaching agent
FR2823671B1 (en) * 2001-04-23 2004-01-09 Dermaconcept Jmc DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING NICOTINIC ACID OR AN AMIDE, AND A SPHINGOID BASE

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JP2007532521A (en) 2007-11-15
US20070238764A1 (en) 2007-10-11
FR2868702A1 (en) 2005-10-14

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