DE1085129B - Method for producing an imitation suede from a tricot - Google Patents

Description

GERMAN

The invention relates to a method for producing an imitation suede from a tricot fabric, made of threads from a mixture of shrinkable fibers, e.g. B. polyvinyl fibers, with non-shrinkable Fibers is made, being in an untensioned state solely through the application of heat and moisture is shrunk.

In known methods of this type, the shrinking takes place without interruption in one go.

Compared to these known methods, the new method is characterized in that the tricot fabric immersed in a moist, warm environment to achieve a first partial shrinkage and then is cooled, then to achieve a further partial shrinkage a second time and longer as previously immersed in a moist, warm environment, then cooled and dried, then the usual processing to achieve a suede imitation is carried out and Finally, the residual shrinkage is performed in a warm dry environment.

The advance achieved by this gradual shrinkage and fixation is that through the first two shrinkage stages, the tricot fabric is adequately prepared with simultaneous solidification is to perform the necessary mechanical treatment, and that by the subsequent residual shrinkage is given the possibility that loosened during mechanical treatment Re-densify fibers, which has a favorable effect on the quality of the product, so that the textile structures are very dense after the treatment and no longer have the appearance of tricot, but have the appearance of suede or the like.

It is advantageous to do the first rapid partial shrinkage to be carried out in an aqueous environment at a temperature between 90 and 100 ° C, the obtained shrinkage depending on the structure of the tricot between, for example, 50 and 75% of the intended total shrinkage, and to make the second partial shrinkage in the tube on a rotating drum in an aqueous environment at a temperature between, for example, 90 and 100 ° C, the duration of the treatment is 1 to 2 hours. This second treatment adds to that add about 10 to 20% of the intended total shrinkage to the first partial shrinkage.

This is followed by the dyeing stages or preparations the dyeing with subsequent dyeing and the finishing stages, such as density, roughening, shearing, Loops, d. H. Operations that give the tricot the look of suede. The third Shrinkage occurs in a dry environment in the flat state of the tricot and without tension Method for producing an imitation suede from a tricot fabric

Applicant:

Michel Jean Andre Laval, Reims, Marne (France)

Representative:

Dr.-Ing. H. Ruschke, Berlin-Friedenau, Lauterstr. 37, and Dipl.-Ing. K. Grentzenberg, Munich 27,

Patent attorneys

Claimed priority: France of October 15, 1953

Michel Jean Andre Laval, Reims, Marne (France), has been named as the inventor

carried out at a temperature which varies with the speed of the tricot in the device changes and which can be between 110 and 140 ° C. This final edit results in the Tricot fabric to its maximum shrinkage.

Two examples of how the method can be carried out are given below.

Example I.

For the fabric to be treated, threads are used that consist of a thorough mixture of 70% Viscose fibers and 30% polyvinyl chloride fibers are made according to Example 3 of the French Patent specification 913 919. This knitted fabric is on a round interlock chair with a suitable pitch worked.

The mesh tube is cut open along a drop stitch so that a flat piece of goods is obtained that can be treated in width.

This product is immersed in a vat, which is filled with water for the duration of the treatment kept boiling. The length of the

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Vats can be 5 to 10 m. The goods are immersed without tension and at one speed pulled through the water from 5 to 10 m per minute.

The washed goods are cooled in a conventional centrifugal device at the exit of the tub, so that a first shrinkage in width and in length is obtained.

After this first shrinkage, the goods are placed in a rotating device of the usual type, which with cold water. The water will gradually come to a boil. The cooking temperature is during Maintain for 1 to 2 hours, with the knitted fabric twisted in the tube in the device will. The bath is then cooled down by adding cold water. The knitted fabric is then in a Washing system of the usual design cleaned.

The goods are then dyed with dyes or other suitable processes.

After dyeing, the goods are vacuum-cleaned or spin dried. Drying can also be done on hanging ropes at a temperature between 60 and 80 ° C or after spreading in the open air.

After drying, the goods are impregnated in the centrifuge using a bath made, the emulsified waxes or stearic chromium chloride or other means of impregnation contains.

The goods are now dried again under the same conditions as after dyeing. All Wrinkles are then smoothed out when passing through a conventional steam-heated tenter frame, at the exit the goods several times over metallic roughening devices with the line and is guided vigorously against the grain.

This roughening is followed by shearing on shear tables, which requires several passes can. The ceiling obtained after roughening must be uniform and cut very short to get the look of very fine suede.

The knitted fabric is then passed over a steam-heated tenter frame again around the folds to cross out and to present the goods perfectly for the next work process, in which the goods is introduced into a machine in whose chambers hot air circulates, the temperature being in the last Chambers between 105 and 140 ° C. The drive takes place by means of a group of rollers placed in the upper part of the machine. the Knitted fabric lies wide or flat on the rollers and leaves the machine without tension and longitudinal tension. The passage speed can vary between 5 and 10 m in the Change the minute depending on the length of the machine. After this shrinking and fixing, the goods must, in Regular wrinkles laid out while cooling down for 5 to 15 hours. After cooling, the goods will be over a steam-heated stenter frame on which the goods are finally leveled. Finally the Goods wound on a roll.

Example II

The goods are made from threads drawn from a thorough mixture of 80% wool and 20% Polyvinyl chloride fibers are made. The threads are processed into knitted fabrics on a knitting machine.

All of the steps listed in Example I are repeated. The washing of the knitwear and the However, dyeing is done with fabrics and processes that are suitable for dyeing wool.

Depending on the desired effect, the goods are then either processed further by roughening or grinding. The shrinking and fixing takes place as in Example I.

The percentage of shrinkable fibers in the blend can of course be varied. the Threads can be made from the following mixtures, for example:

Polyvinyl chloride fibers and wool and viscose;
Polyvinyl chloride fibers and wool and cotton; Polyvinyl chloride fibers and wool and polyamide (nylon) fibers.

In order to give the goods the appearance of suede, metallic roughening can be used instead a grinding done. Depending on the appearance and use of the goods, shearing can be omitted. Any machine that allows heat to act on the tension-free knitted fabric can can be used for shrinking and fixing, etc.

The various thread entanglements that can be performed on round chairs for the production of knitted goods can be used in the goods to be treated according to the invention.

The fibers can be dyed before processing, in which case the dyeing steps mentioned are superfluous will.

The tricot fabrics treated according to the invention can be used to manufacture items of clothing, for furniture covers, Car bodies, saffiano leather goods and used to make gloves, footwear, etc. will.

Claims (3)

Patent claims: 1. Method for producing an imitation suede from a tricot fabric made from threads a mixture of shrinkable fibers, e.g. B. Polyvinyl fibers, with non-shrinkable fibers, where only through the application of heat and moisture shrunk in the relaxed state is, characterized in that the tricot fabric to achieve a first partial shrinkage is immersed in a moist, warm environment and then cooled, then to achieve a further partial shrinkage a second time and longer than before in a moist, is immersed in a warm environment, then cooled and dried, after which the to achieve a suede imitation usual processing can be carried out and finally the residual shrinkage performed in a warm dry environment. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the heat treatment of the The tricot fabric used in the humid environment consists of warm water, while the dry one Environment is formed by warm air. 3. The method according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the first shrinkage in a humid environment at a temperature between 90 and 100 ° C for a period of 1 to 2 minutes, the second shrinkage that takes place in a humid environment also with a Temperature from 90 to 100 ° C, but for a period of 1 to 2 hours, and the third Shrinkage in a dry environment at a temperature between 110 and 140 ° C to for the complete shrinking of the textile material, Swiss patent no. 244315; to be led. French Patent Nos. 913 919, 898 309; Considered publications: "Textil-Praxis", September 1953, pp. 795ff .; German Patent Specifications No. 896 486, 822 240, "Melliand Textile Reports", March 1951, pp. 215 bis 172, 396 034, 181 928; 5 221. © 009 550/138 7.60