DE102009045856A1 - Cosmetic use of quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose polymers, which are substituted with cationic trimethylammonium- and dimethyldodecylammonium group, for reducing skin irritation in skin- and/or hair treatment agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose polymers (A), which are substituted with cationic trimethylammonium- and dimethyldodecylammonium group, for reducing skin irritation in skin- and/or hair treatment agents, is claimed.

Description

The The present invention relates to the use of specific cationic Polymers in skin and / or hair treatment compositions for reduction the skin irritation potential of the agents.

Human Hair is used today in a variety of ways with hair cosmetics Treated preparations. These include cleaning hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and cures, as well as the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the Hair with coloring, tinting, waving and styling preparations.

Not lastly by the heavy use of the hair, for example by dyeing or perming, by the frequent Hair cleansing with shampoos followed by blow-drying with hairdryer heat or by environmental pollution, the importance is increasing of care products with the longest possible effect to. The reason is that the hair is treated / stressed damaged externally as well as in your structure which gives them an unattractive reputation, characterized by lack of smoothness, softness, lack of Gloss, but also by a poorer combability, hair breakage or Spliss can be noticeable. In addition to the hair can also be the scalp suffer from the above conditions: often it gets dry and cracked with the result that dandruff and itching occur can.

Therefore It has long been common for the hair of a special aftertreatment undergo care for the hair and scalp, the hair again a beautiful exterior Give appearance and strengthen the hair structure, as well Maintain the scalp or protect it from drying out. In such post-treatments, usually in the form a rinse, the hair with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers treated. This treatment may vary depending on the formulation Combability, hold, fullness and shine the hair improves.

Of the However, protection and / or the regeneration of the scalp is up to the present day is a problem, because incompatibilities and allergic reactions on the sensitive scalp take daily too and there is a shortage of hair treatment products, the skin irritations prevent, alleviate or remedy.

Especially Sensitive scalp suffers from frequent treatments because a variety of ingredients such as oxidizing and reducing agents in hair dyeing, bleaching and waving agents or preservatives and harm aggressive surfactants in hair cleansers the scalp demonstrably. The irritation potential of the scalp is increased with every hair treatment, which in extreme cases As a result, the allergy potential of the scalp may increase and she is no longer capable of hair and scalp-care agents take.

task The present invention therefore provides a care substance to be found which are easy to work into skin and hair treatment products leaves, and a conditioning effect on the skin and the hair. Under a "conditioning Effect "is specifically improving the hair grip and hair volume, as well as improving scalp compatibility Understood. It is a particular object of the present invention to reduce the irritation potential for the scalp and to reduce such a minimization of the allergy potential against active substances, the scalp due to environmental influences, UV radiation, Heat or special hair treatments supplied for regeneration Need to become.

Completely surprising It was found that the use of a special cationic Polymers fulfills this task to a high degree. The use of the polymer in a commercial hair cleanser and the use of these funds confer the treatment thus treated Hair more smoothness, softness and visibly more volume - comparable with the care effects that go with the proven Polyquaternium-10 in such formulations. With regard to skin tolerance led the use of the invention However, cationic polymers to skin and / or hair cleansers, the Skin irritation to formulations without a salary on cationic polymers and formulations with commercially available polyquaternium-10 or cationic Allegedly reduce guar polymers.

object The invention is therefore the cosmetic use of a quaternized Hydroxyethylcellulose polymer A, which is treated with cationic trimethylammonium and dimethyldodecylammonium groups is substituted for reduction the skin irritation potential in skin and / or hair treatment products.

Of the Degree of skin irritation can be due to objective aspects such as redness (Erythreme), edema, inflammation (dandruff) or cracking or by subjective aspects such as burning, itching and sensation of tension can be quantified. It is known that certain substances as well as the skin itself the type and the degree can influence the aforementioned irritation reactions. To be able to assess the skin irritation, one must therefore distinguish between toxic reactions and allergic reactions on the skin.

Skin irritation reactions are strong on the site of application of a substance or agent focused, and much of the skin irritation reactions Occurs within 12 to 24 hours. In contrast, occur allergic or toxic reactions also only much later on, and they are not limited to the application site.

Around to obtain an objective result with regard to the skin irritation People of the same age with healthy skin were among the same Conditions and at the same time a so-called "patch Test, which showed that the inventive cationic polymer in commercial hair cleansers (Based on different cationic polymers) to demonstrable reduced reddening of the skin (erythrems).

Under According to the invention suitable cationic polymers are quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose polymers A, those with cationic trimethylammonium and dimethyldodecylammonium groups were substituted. The cationic substitution of the polymers causes an increased substantivity of the polymers the hair, because the surface of the hair is negatively charged, while the hydrophobic modification (the dodecylammonium group) the separation of further conditioning substances from the skin and / or hair conditioner on the scalp and hair.

Particularly according to the invention Preferred polymers A have a cationic degree of substitution of 0.15 to 0.25 and a hydrophobic degree of substitution (HS) of HS ≤ 0.01 on. On average, suitable according to the invention cationic polymers A a percentage nitrogen content in the molecule from 0.5 to 3, preferably from 0.6 to 2.7 and in particular from 0.8 up to 2.4. Such polymers are known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67 and are commercially available, for example, from the company Amerchol sold under the names Polymer SL or Polymer SK.

In a first preferred embodiment of the invention the polymers A in cleansing cosmetic skin and / or Hair treatment agents used.

These included - based on their total weight - 3 to 40% by weight, preferably 4 to 35% by weight, more preferably 5 to 30 Wt .-% and in particular 6 to 25 wt .-% of anionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – vernetzte und/oder lineare Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (II),
  
  in der R⁶ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁷ für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR⁶ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR⁸R⁹R¹⁰R¹¹, mit R⁸ bis R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (III), R¹²CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (III)in der R¹²CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (IV),
  
  in der R¹³CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Olsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vor-zugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (VIII) eingesetzt, in der R¹³CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances which are suitable for use on the human body and are suitable in particular for cosmetic use. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• - Crosslinked and / or linear alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (II),
  
  in the R ^{6 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{7 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ⁶ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ⁸ R ⁹ R ¹⁰ R ¹¹ , where R ⁸ to R ¹¹ independently of one another represent a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (III), R ¹² CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (III) in the R ¹² CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (IV),
  
  in which R ¹³ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preference is given to using monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VIII) in which R ¹³ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain according to the invention and branched alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumgfycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3 Hydroxyethyl imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

One According to the invention preferred zwitterionic surfactant this is known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine Fatty acid amide derivative.

Amphoteric surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable am phytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

surfactants, in particular some cleansing and strongly foaming anionic Surfactants are known to be in high concentrations aggressive to the skin and redness, Itching and - in case of sensitive skin - even can lead to inflammation. For an optimal cleaning effect and the best possible Foaming behavior is a content of anionic surfactants in cosmetic Skin and / or hair cleaners but absolutely necessary. So that the skin by the content of anionic surfactants in the cleaning compositions is not too strongly negatively influenced, it is therefore endeavored Make skin and hair cleanser, the very mild Containing surfactants. From the prior art are a variety of skin and / or hair cleaning agents known to increase Skin Milding Properties Mixtures of Special Anionic and contain amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.

In a second particularly preferred embodiment of the The invention therefore provides polymers A in such cosmetic skin care compositions. and / or hair cleansers that are mildly anionic and contain mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.

The use of the polymer A according to the invention in skin and hair cleansing compositions has proven to be particularly suitable, the anionic surfactants from the group of alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, ether carboxylic acids and / or sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably with 1 to 4 oxyethyl groups, and also amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants selected from the group of C _8-18 -alkylbetaines, C _8-18 -alkylamido (C _1-4 ) -alkylbetaines and / or C _8-18 -alkylamphomono- or Contain diacetate. Recent studies have shown that cosmetic cleaning preparations can be produced with special skin mildew, by the aforementioned mixture of mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants furthermore at least one nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt. -%, preferably from 0.15 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the composition - is added.

nonionic Surfactants show and have been shown to have low skin irritation potential in cosmetic cleaning formulations so far not entirely exchanged for anionic surfactants because of their foaming and cleaning behavior is not optimal. In the mixture with the aforementioned mild anionic and more amphobic surfactants, however, can be added to nonionic surfactants foamy surfactant blends that combine the skin and the Clean hair thoroughly and gently. In a third preferred embodiment of the invention are the polymers A therefore in a surfactant mixture of mild anionic, mild amphoteric / zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl, beispielsweise Rizinusöl-hydriert+40 EO, wie es beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Cremophor CO 455 von der Firma SHC im Handel erhältlich ist,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (V) R¹⁴CO^–(OCH₂CHR¹⁵)_wOR¹⁶ (V)in der R¹⁴CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R¹⁵ für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R¹⁶ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide,
• – Alkylpolygykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können lediglich einen bestimmten Alkylrest R enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor.

According to the invention suitable nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of a polyol and a polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, for example castor oil-hydrogenated + 40 EO, as it is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Cremophor CO 455 from SHC,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (V) R ¹⁴ CO ^- (OCH ₂ CHR ¹⁵ ) _w OR ¹⁶ (V) in the R ¹⁴ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{15 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{16 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - hydroxymix ether,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,
• - Alkylpolygykoside according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x wherein R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

When Sugar building block Z can be any mono- or oligosaccharides be used. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, Arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, Idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, Fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is special prefers.

The Alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkylpolyglykoside with x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particularly preferred are alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

Also the alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can used according to the invention. These homologs can average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide units per Alkylglykosideinheit included.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution thereby understood mixtures of homologues, which in the implementation of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrow homolog distributions are opposed obtained, for example, when hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or -alkoholate be used as catalysts. The usage of products with restricted homolog distribution may be preferred be.

Especially preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides and alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent mild properties are also obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

Accordingly, it is particularly preferred according to the invention if mild anionic surfactants from the group of the alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates, ether carboxylic acids and / or sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably with 1 to 4 oxyethyl groups, with mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants from the group of C _8-18 -alkylbetaines, C _8-18 -alkylamido (C _1-4 ) -alkylbetaines and / or C _8-18 -alkylamphomono- or -diacetates and nonionic surfactants such as alkylpolyglucosi the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol are combined to form a mild surfactant mixture. This surfactant mixture is used with the polymer A in a skin and / or hair cleanser, which is characterized by excellent cleaning properties and a special skin mildness. The use of the polymer A in such a composition also reduces the irritation potential of the scalp and supports the deposition of hair and skin care agents.

at The aforementioned hair and skin care substances are at least one substance from the group of protein hydrolysates, the Vitamins, different from A different cationic polymers, plant extracts and / or the cosmetically suitable oils, which in another preferred embodiment of the invention with the polymer A can be used in skin and hair cleansers. These care substances are individually or as a mixture in the skin and / or hair cleansers - related on their total weight - in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-% and used in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%.

vitamins are indispensable for the health of skin and hair. Since they are also in external use a cheap Show effect, they are often cosmetic products added. Problematic for the use of vitamins in cosmetic cleaners is that they are only relatively short and in great dilution on the hair and the Scalp can act, and therefore their positive effects often do not come out. It has been found that the inventive Polymer A in the skin and / or hair cleansers in addition to those described Effects also the deposition of caring substances - as well Vitamins - can stimulate.

Under According to the invention preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives are such representatives usually understood to belong to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. According to the invention, the use of the vitamin A component in amounts of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin and / or hair cleanser described above, is preferred.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.

According to the invention preferred is the nicotinamide, which is preferred in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the previously described Skin and / or hair cleanser, is used.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably used in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the invention Preferably, in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the Preferred agents used in the invention in amounts of 0.01-1% by weight, based on the total agent, contain.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in Amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-% included.

Especially Preference is given to vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors the groups A, B, E and H in the previously described skin and / or Used hair cleansers.

Of course can also use several vitamins and vitamin precursors simultaneously be used. In a particularly preferred embodiment The invention is in addition to the polymer A for support the moisture retention capacity of the scalp and / or the hair D-panthenol and / or pantolactone (optional in the mixture with one of the other aforementioned vitamin components) in the before used skin and / or hair cleansers described. Farther particularly preferred is the use of nicotinic acid amide for the relief of skin redness.

According to the invention suitable Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) to be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. For example, the latter are Polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further Examples of usable according to the invention Compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of Protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and quite more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates of both plant and animal, marine or of synthetic origin in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-% - related on the total weight of the agent according to the invention - used become.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) kerasol tm ^® (Croda) or ProSina ^® (Croda) sold.

According to the invention suitable protein hydrolysates of plant origin are z. Soybean, almond, pea, potato, rice and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Innlex) Hydrosog ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available. The addition of a wheat, keratin, collagen or silk protein hydrolyzate to the polymer A according to the invention has proven particularly suitable. Particularly preferred in terms of an increase in moisturization of the scalp is a keratin hydrolyzate, such as a product marketed under the trade designation ProSina ^® by the company Croda product and / or a wheat protein hydrolyzate, such as a product marketed under the trade designation Gluadin ^® by the company Cognis product.

When Another preferred skin and / or hair care agent can for mechanical and sensory strengthening of the hair additionally to the polymer A in the cosmetic skin and / or hair cleansers a plant extract are used.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

According to the invention especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Echinacea, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Toadstool, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Meristem, Moringa, Ginseng and Ginger Root prefers.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Echninacea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, Horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Homeselps, meristem, moringa, ginseng and ginger root.

Completely according to the invention particularly preferred because of their hair-strengthening effect and their supportive effect on hair fullness are the extracts of green tea, chamomile, almond, aloe vera, Apricot and Moringa.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction Extracting agent or extractant mixture.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive Mittein mixtures of several, especially two, different Use plant extracts.

Of the or the plant extract (s) are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5 and in particular 0.01 to 2 Wt .-% (corresponds to the active substance content of the extract) - based on the total weight of the previously described cosmetic skin and skin Hair treatment products - used.

in der R¹⁷ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R¹⁸, R¹⁹ und R²⁰ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (III) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹⁷ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – ' R¹⁸, R¹⁹ und R²⁰ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Suitable cationic polymers other than A according to the invention are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (VI),

where R ^{17 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ^{20 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹⁷ is a methyl group
• - R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ²⁰ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

One suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The networking can, if desired, with Help multiply olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example Divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred one Crosslinking agent.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-aminomodifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,

sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen

• – Polyquaternium 2,
• – Polyquaternium 17,
• – Polyquaternium 18 und
• – Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol (with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and Tridecylpolyoxypropylen polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name : PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available. Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (VI) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC. Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

• - Polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Likewise can be used as cationic polymers under the names poly quaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a cationic guar derivative and / or polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550), polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10 is used in addition to the cationic polymer A to increase the deposition of cosmetic skin and hair care ingredients and for skin and hair conditioning , Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-89 and / or Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 uses in cosmetic skin and / or hair-treatment compositions. The cationic polymer (s) is (are) in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt. % Based on the total weight of the agent.

A further component preferred according to the invention is an oil that is natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.

When Natural (vegetable) oils are commonly used Triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides used. preferred natural oils in the context of the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, Apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil (Tea Tree Oil), soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, Evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, Mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranth seed oil, Argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, Pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, Safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, Cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S). Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.

silicones cause excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause a better combing of the Hair in wet and dry condition and in many cases beneficial to the hair grip and the softness of the hair.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht siliconhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silicon enthält;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

It is therefore desirable according to the invention that in the cosmetic skin and / or hair cleansers, in addition to the polymer A, a silicone is used whose deposition on the application surface is supported by the polymer A. Silicones suitable according to the invention are selected from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers to which have been grafted non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone attached to and in the chain at least one organic macromer that does not contain silicone has been grafted on at least one of its ends;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

The The aforementioned silicone components are used in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular of 0.3 to 5 wt .-% (based on the active substance content of the silicone) used, the amounts being based on the total weight of the skin and / or hair treatment agent.

As an oil component may continue to serve a dialkyl ether.

Usable according to the invention Dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 C-atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C-atoms, such as Di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, Di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, Di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.

According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

The cosmic skin and / or hair treatment agents contain the oil component (s) preferably in an amount range of 0.1 to 7 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active compound combination according to the invention can be further optimized by further fatty substances. Other fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion. As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, obtained in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Use amount is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy. In a preferred embodiment the amount is 0.5-10 wt .-%, with very special advantageous amounts of 1-5 wt .-% are.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

The Fatty alcohols are purchased in quantities of 0.1-20% by weight to the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-10 % By weight used.

• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12, Cetiol^® HE oder Cutina^® MD.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. Other fatty substances are, for example

• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• - ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^®, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD.

The Use amount of other fatty substances is 0.1-20 Wt .-% based on the total agent. Preferred are 0.1-10 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy.

For Some purposes are sensitive skin and / or hair cleansers especially important - for example, for baby or Children's shampoos, or for anti-dandruff compositions. Baby or child shampoos are allowed on sensitive baby skin and do not irritate the eyes, and therefore must be extra special composed of mild and compatible ingredients be. In anti-dandruff shampoos, however, is for effective control of dander a minimum level of an antidandruff agent is essential. But there are a lot of effective anti-dandruff agents are known to cause irritation on the skin one endeavors, the antidandruff compositions otherwise on the Basis of particularly mild ingredients to produce the skin irritation to be kept as low as possible.

It was found that the inventive Polymer A also for use in such formulations suitable.

A second aspect of the invention is therefore the use of a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose polymer A substituted with cationic trimethylammonium and dimethyldodecylammonium groups in sensitive baby, child and / or anti-dandruff detergents.

Next The above components may have a number of others optional skin and hair care agents in combination with the polymer A in the cosmetic skin and / or hair cleansers be used.

When Another preferred skin and / or hair care agent may be a or more amino acids are used. amino acids also moisturizing and stabilizing due to their effects Buffer effect the acid mantle of the skin, d. H. they serve the (head) skin protection. According to the invention suitable Amino acids are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, Leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, Glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, Methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, where both the individual amino acids and mixtures used can be.

The Amino acid (s) is (are) in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.075 to 1 wt .-% used - related on the total weight of the cosmetic skin and / or hair cleanser.

Preferably is group glycine and / or alanine and / or ariginine and / or serine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine used.

Especially Preferably, the amino acids are glycine, alanine and / or Arginine. As a further skin and / or hair care agent Ectoin used.

Ectoin ((4S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. The strongly water-binding low molecular weight organic compound occurs in halophilic bacteria and allows them to survive extremophilic organisms under stress conditions. Ectoin is in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% used - based on the total weight of cosmetic skin and / or hair cleanser.

A further preferred skin and hair care component associated with the polymer A can be used in skin and hair cleansers, is a cationic surfactant.

These are usually selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the Amidoamines, and they are in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.025 to 4 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.05 to 3 % By weight, the amounts being based on the total weight of the Derive skin and / or hair cleanser.

preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^e. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable according to the invention Compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

A preferred embodiment in which the polymer A is used is a mild anti-dandruff shampoo. These include as a mandatory component at least one antidandruff active ingredient in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 Wt .-% and in particular from 0.3 to 2.0 wt .-% added (based on the whole medium).

Anti-dandruff agents contribute to the improvement of the head condition, because with the Reduction or inhibition of dandruff is also better Skin compatibility and a lower irritation potential associated with the scalp. According to the invention suitable Antidandruff active ingredients are selected from Piroctone Olamine, Climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, Sulfur, selenium sulfides, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, Burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, stinging nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, Birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or Arnica extracts.

Especially Salicylic acid, climbazole, zinc pyrithione are preferred and Piroctone Olamine. A factor by which the hair and the scalp can also be affected is UV radiation. To the damage of the scalp and hair by UV radiation Therefore, as little as possible, in addition to the polymer A preferably a UV filter in the skin and / or hair cleansers used.

The Subject to be used according to the invention UV filter in terms of their structure and their physical properties no general restrictions. Rather, they are suitable all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector, their absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range lies. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters used in the invention can for example, be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course the teaching according to the invention also includes the use a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filters with at least one UV filter with a cationic Group preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually used in quantities of 0.1-5 % By weight, based on the total agent used. Amounts of 0.4-2.5 % By weight are preferred.

In Another preferred embodiment in addition emulsifiers can be used. Emulsifiers cause at the phase interface, the formation of water or oil-stable Adsorption layers containing the dispersed droplets protect against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a built up hydrophilic molecule part. Hydrophilic emulsifiers form preferably O / W emulsions and form hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably W / O emulsions. Under an emulsion is a droplet-shaped Distribution (dispersion) of one liquid in another Liquid under the expense of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants too understand.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The Emulsifiers are preferred in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent, used.

The The following examples illustrate the invention, but without it Restrict to: All information is - provided not stated otherwise - in weight percent.

Examples:

shampoo Drug / commercial product Amount [wt%] 1 2 3 Texapon ® ¹ K 14 S 50 - - ^Texapon®2 NSO - 40 40 Dehyton ^®3 K 10 - - Dehyton ^®4 G - 6 6 Plantacare® ^®5 818 UP 4 - - Lamesoft ® ⁸ PO 65 - 2.0 - salicylic acid - - 0.2 D-panthenol 0.5 - 0.2 nicotinamide 0.3 - 0.15 SOFTCAT ^®7 SL-100 0.3 - - SoftCat ^®8 SX- ^400X - 0.1 0.1 citric acid 0.5 1.5 0.55 ^Arlypon®9 F 1.2 - - ^Cetiol®10 HE - 0.8 0.3 pantolactone - 0.5 0.5 ^Gluadin®11 WQ - 1.0 1.0 Euperlan ^®12 PK 3000 - - 2.35 Cutina ^®13 HR - - 0.1 Comperlan ^®14 100 - - 0.45 Seven-herb extract - - 0.1 NaCl 1.3 1.3 1.3 Perfume - - 0.3 preservative qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Anti dandruff shampoo: INCI amount water ad 100 Polyquaternium-67 0.15 Citric Acid 0.55 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12 Sodium hydroxides 0.1 Perfume (fragrance) 0.35 Polyquaternium-7 0.18 panthenol 0.15 Pantolactone 0,002 Niacinamide 0.15 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Cocamide MEA 0.6 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 PEG-14M 0.02 PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.14 Dimethicone 0.2 Sodium Chloride 1.0 Cocamidopropyl betaines 2,394 Zinc Pyrithione 0.5 Baby and child shampoo: description amount Texapon ^®15 SB 3 unpreserved 4 Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.1 salicylic acid 0.2 Na benzoate 0.5 Bitrex ^®16 2.5% in water 0.08 Plantacare 818 UP 6 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 nicotinamide 0.15 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 40% 6 SoftCat SL-100 0.3 Perfume 0.3 Cetiol HE 2 water ad 100

In the shampoos, the following commercial products were used: 1 INCI name: SODIUM MYRETH SULFATE, AS 26-28%; Cognis 2 INCI name: SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, AS 27-29%, Cognis 3 INCI name: COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, AS 29-32%, Cognis 4 INCI name: DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE, AS 30%, Cognis 5 INCI name: COCO-GLUCOSIDE, AS 51-53%, Cognis 6 INCI name: COCO-GLUCOSIDE, GLYCERYL OLEATE, AQUA, Cognis 7 INCI name: Polyquaternium-67, Dow (Amerchol) 8th INCI name: Polyquaternium-67, Dow (Amerchol) 9 INCI name: LAURETH-2, Cognis 10 INCI name: PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, AS 2.5% in water, Cognis 11 INCI name: LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, Cognis 12 INCI name: GLYCOL DISTEARATE, GLYCERIN, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, Cognis 13 INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, Cognis 14 INCI name: COCAMIDE MEA, Cognis 15 INCI name: DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE, Cognis 16 INCI name: DENATONIUM BENZOATE, SPCI

The Recipe 3 was in a so-called patch test with three more Formulas compared in terms of their skin tolerance. It was the extent of erythema after 6, 24, 48 and 72 hours.

comparison formulation 3a corresponded to recipe 3, but instead of 0.1 wt% SoftCat SX-400 X was polymer JR 400 used.

comparison formulation 3b corresponded to recipe 3, but instead of 0.1 wt% SoftCat SX-400 X Jaguar C 162 was used.

comparison formulation 3c corresponded to Formulation 3, but it contained no cationic polymer.

Of the Patch test revealed that the recipe 3 has a significantly better skin tolerance compared with the comparison formulations.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 3723354 A [0017]
• - DE 19736906 [0017]
• WO 92/13829 [0041]
• DE 19756454 [0082]

Claims (8)

Cosmetic use of a quaternized Hydroxyethylcellulose polymer A, which is treated with cationic trimethylammonium and dimethyldodecylammonium groups is substituted for reduction the skin irritation potential in skin and / or hair treatment products. Use according to claim 1, characterized that the skin and / or hair treatment - related by weight - from 3 to 40% by weight, preferably from 4 to 35% by weight, more preferably 5 to 30% by weight and in particular 6 to 25% by weight anionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the skin and / or hair treatment agent based on a mild surfactant mixture containing mild anionic and mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the mild surfactant mixture anionic surfactants selected from the group of alkylpolyglycol ether, ether and / or sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably with 1 to 4 oxyethyl groups, and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants selected from the group of C _8-18 -alkylbetaines, C _8-18 -alkylamido (C _1-4 ) -alkylbetaines and / or C _8-18 -alkylamphomono- or -diacetates. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the skin and / or hair treatment - related on their weight - 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.15 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 6.5% by weight and especially 0.25 to 5 wt .-% of at least one nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the skin and / or hair treatment agent at least one hair-care substance from the group of protein hydrolysates and / or the vitamins and / or the cationic polymers other than A. and / or the plant extracts and / or the oil components contain. Use according to claim 6, characterized that the skin and / or hair treatment agent at least one hair care substance on the group panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, Keratin hydrolyzate, wheat protein hydrolyzate, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-89 and cationic guar derivatives, contains. Use of a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose polymer A, which contains cationic trimethylammonium and dimethyldodecylammonium groups is substituted in sensitive baby, child and / or anti-dandruff detergents.