WO2011000649A2

WO2011000649A2 - Hair-protective cosmetic ii

Info

Publication number: WO2011000649A2
Application number: PCT/EP2010/057546
Authority: WO
Inventors: Monika Noll; Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2009-06-30
Filing date: 2010-05-31
Publication date: 2011-01-06
Also published as: WO2011000649A3; DE102009027361A1

Abstract

Disclosed are compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, containing at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension, at least one care substance from the group including L-carnitine and/or the salts thereof, panthenol and/or pantothenic acid, 2-furanones and/or the derivatives thereof, in particular pantolactone; niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide; L-ascorbic acid; thiamine; riboflavin; biotin; taurine and/or the salts thereof; ubiquinone; ectoin; allantoin; caffeine and/or theophylline and/or theobromine; amino acids; and 0.1 to 80 percent by weight of at least one surfactant in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, the percentage being relative to the weight of the composition. Said compositions are particularly suitable for preventing and repairing intrinsic and extrinsic damage.

Description

Hair protection cosmetic Il

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, preferably agents for the treatment of keratinous fibers, the at least one plant cell suspension and the use of at least one plant cell suspension in keratin fiber treatment agents, preferably to improve the moisture of keratin fibers, especially human hair, to protect the fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation to protect the fibers from destructuring and to improve the color retention and color intensity of dyed fibers.

Consumers require a cosmetic product to have additional, targeted effects on the substrate in addition to having an excellent effect within its main application. For example, a keratin-containing fiber coloring agent should not only provide excellent coloration as a key parameter, but should also ensure that the fibers are easy to handle after dyeing, are well cared for, protected from environmental influences, and strengthened in the fibrous structure. Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product." By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products.

There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents.

The aim is also that the hair is protected from aggressive oxidizing agents or UV radiation by suitable ingredients. Another disadvantage of strong and frequent sun exposure (especially with dyed hair) is that the hair color changes or fades faster. Also, this effect should optimally be avoided or reduced, without the need for the use of other care products.

In addition to external noxae for the hair, it is also important to prevent or at least slow down endogenous damage processes. Since also hair roots and follicles are subject to an aging process, active substances are needed that can develop positive effects here.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to solve the problems described above and to provide preparations which protect the hair against aging processes and environmental influences or at least partially repair the damages.

EP 1 985 280 A2 describes the use of dedifferentiated plant cells in cosmetic products for the protection of stem cells against intrinsic and extrinsic stress factors, in particular for promoting the proliferation of stem cells and their protection against apoptosis (cell death). This document refers in particular to the use of dedifferentiated plant cells from the fruits of Malus domestica (apple) of the variety Uttwiler Spätlauber (Malus domestica cultivar Uttwiler Spätlauber). It has now been found that known care substances can be improved in their effect on keratinic fibers when they are used together with plant cell suspensions in hair cleansing compositions.

In a first embodiment, the subject matter of the present invention is compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, contained in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, in each case based on their weight, a) at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension,

b) at least one care substance from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or panthothenic acid, 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide; L-ascorbic acid; thiamine; riboflavin; biotin; Taurine and / or its salts; ubiquinone; Ectoin; allantoin; Caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine; the amino acids;

c) 0.1 to 80 wt .-% of at least one surfactant.

Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Preferred agents according to the invention are hair cleansing preparations and rinsable care products, in particular shampoos and conditioners.

As ingredient a), the compositions according to the invention contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension. Methods of plant-cell culture technique include techniques that allow to obtain uniform dedifferentiated cells following certain known process steps, which have the following advantages over whole cultivated plants: independence of seasons; continuous production; free of environmental pollution and other impurities; controllable and reproducible production of metabolites in terms of quantity and quality; Protection of rare or limited plant reserves; no restriction of market availability.

The basis of cultivating such dedifferentiated plant cells utilizes the biological fact that each plant cell carries the ability to form the whole plant from which it originated.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of the subfamily Maloideae (pome fruit).

The plant clade Malodieae includes, for example, the plant genera: rock pear (Amelanchier), aria, aronia, Chaenomeles, Chamaemeles, Chamaemespilus, Cormus, cotoneaster (Cotoneaster), hawthorn (Crataegus), quince (Cydonia), Dichotomanthes, Docynia, Docyniopsis, Loquat (Eriobotrya), Eriolobus, Hesperomeles, Heteromeles, Apples (Malus), Melacomenes, Medlars (Mespilus), Osteomeles, Peraphyllum, Brilliant Medlars (Photinia), Pseudocydonia, Firethorn (Pyracantha), Pears (Pyrus), Rhaphiolepis, Whitefish ( Sorbus), Stranvaesia, Torminalis. Within these genera some are erfndungsgemäß particularly suitable. Plant cell suspension of plants of the genus Pyrus (pears) and malus (apples) are particularly preferably used according to the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of the genus Malus (apples), wherein preferred plant cells are selected from cells of: Malus aldenhamensis, Malus angustifolia, Malus * arnoldiana (M. baccata * M. floribunda ), Malus asiatica, Malus * atrosanguineum (M. halliana * M. sieboldii), Malus baccata, Malus bracteata, Malus brevipes, Malus coronaria, Malus daochengensis, Malus dasyphylia, Malus * domestica, Malus doumeri (Bois) A. Chevalier, Malus florus, malus floribunda, malus formosana, malus fusca, malus glabrata, malus glaucescens, malus halliana, malus hilleri, malus honanensis, malus hupehensis, malus ioensis, malus kansuensis, malus komarovii, malus lancifolia, malus leiocalyca, malus * magdeburgensis, malus mandschurica , Malus melliana, Malus * micromalus Makino, Malus niedzwetskyana, Malus ombrophila, Malus platycarpa, Malus praecox, Ma lus prattii, Malus prunifolia, Malus pumila MiII., Malus * purpurea), (M. atrosanguinea * M. niedzwetskyana), Malus rockii, Malus sargentii (Syn: M. toringo ssp. sargentii), Malus sieboldii (Syn: M. toringo), Malus * scheideckeri, Malus sikkimensis, Malus sieversii, Malus * soulardi, Malus spectabilis, Malus sublobata, Malus sylvestris, Malus toringo, Malus toringoides, Malus transitoria, Malus trilobata, Malus chonoskii, Malus yunnanensis.

As very particularly preferred an old apple variety has been found. Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of Malus domestica Cultivar Uttwiler Spätlauber (apple strain Uttwiler Spätlauber).

Regardless of whether the compositions of the present invention contain one or more plant cell suspensions and whichever plant cell suspension (s) is employed, compositions according to the invention are preferred which, by weight, are from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.002 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, and especially 0.05 to 7% by weight of the plant cell suspension (s).

Corresponding plant cell suspensions are commercially available under the name PhytoCellTec from Mibelle Biochemistry.

As a second ingredient, the compositions of the invention contain at least one care substance from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide; L-ascorbic acid; thiamine; riboflavin; biotin; Taurine and / or its salts; ubiquinone; Ectoin; allantoin; Caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine; as well as the amino acids. These are described below. Regardless of the type of care product, compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain the care substance (s) in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, based on their weight 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%. A first group of preferred care substances to be used are the compounds L-carnitine or its salts. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 4 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.75 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine and / or its salts ,

Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and a further group of preferred care substances to be used represent the compounds panthenol, pantothenic acid and pantolactone or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone) are preferably used individually or in admixture with each other in total amounts of up to 7, 5 wt .-% used. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on their weight, even more preferably 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 0.75% by weight of panthenol and / or pantothenic acid and / or pantolactone.

Another group of preferred care substances to be used are the compounds niacin, niacinamide and nicotinic acid. Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) are preferably used individually or mixed with one another in total amounts of up to 5% by weight. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on their weight, even more preferably 0.15 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% niacin and / or niacinamide and / or nicotinamide.

Instead of the care substances mentioned or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain L-ascorbic acid and / or thiamine and / or rioboflavin. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of L-ascorbic acid and / or thiamine and / or rioboflavin.

Another group of preferred care substances to be used are the compounds biotin, taurine and Ection. Biotin (vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H), taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid) and ectoine are preferably used individually or mixed with each other in total amounts of up to 5% by weight. % used. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% biotin and / or taurine and / or ectoine and / or allantoin.

Instead of the care substances mentioned or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain certain purine derivatives. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 2.5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0, based on their weight , 05 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine contained. As a further ingredient b), the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-AIINn), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

As a further constituent b), the agents according to the invention may comprise at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances. Particularly preferred agents contain at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

in the

X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR ⁴ - or a chemical bond

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -Ce) - Alkylene group, or a (C-rC ₆ ) acyl radical, wherein preferred radicals are independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ ,

-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% of at least one Ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

in the n for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably for 10 (coenzyme Q10) As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.0002 to 4 wt.%, Preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt.%, More preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-Ib)

in which n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular from 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

As a third component essential to the invention, the agents according to the invention contain at least one surfactant.

Particularly preferred is the use of amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one - wear or -SO ^'' 'group ₃ Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N - COO ^(). Alkyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which have, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free

Amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and for training internal salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines,

N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant (s) from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids having in each case about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionates, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine, N- Alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat, 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl- glycinate, which bekan under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine nten compounds containing compounds known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, wherein preferred agents, the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%, preferably from 0.75 to 8 Wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (I)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms

These surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (I) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which - based on their weight - 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5% by weight of surfactant (s) of the formula ( I) included.

In addition to the amphoteric surfactant (s) of the formula (I) or in its place, the hair-treatment compositions according to the invention may be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (II)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.

For reasons of production technology, surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (IIa)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation. These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _ir C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (II). In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the

R in the formulas (I) and (II) is selected from H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -, H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -, H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ii-,

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _13- , H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _15- , H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ - or mixtures of these.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, hair cleaners according to the invention are preferred as nonionic surfactants

Alkylpolyglycoside of the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

The average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range

C8-C16 is 1, 2-1, 5.

Preferred according to the invention are alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula

RO (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R

essentially C ₈ and do-alkyl groups,

essentially of Ci ₂ - and C- | _4- alkyl groups,

essentially from C ₈ - to C- | ₆ alkyl groups or

consisting essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or

consisting essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups

consists.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.

In addition to the surfactants mentioned, the agents according to the invention may also contain anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanol- ammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group: linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C. Atoms (soaps), acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates , Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, monoglyceride sulfates, condensation products of C ₈ -

C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

It is inventively preferred to dispense with the use of alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates in order to obtain pronounced mild properties of the agents. Preferred hair cleansers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain no alkyl and alkenyl sulfates.

With regard to particularly mild formulations, the use of alkyl or alkenyl ether sulfates is also not preferred according to the invention. Here, hair cleansers containing no alkyl and alkenyl ether sulfates are preferred.

In general, the use of sulfate surfactants is rather contraindicated in the compositions according to the invention, so that particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are free of sulphate.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s) Surfactant (s) is / are selected from: alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or tricetylmet hylammonium chloride, quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-83 and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N , N- (distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fatty acid ester ethyl) - ammonium chloride.

As a further optional constituent, the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which are present in the

Main and / or side chain have a group which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

Cationic polymers which can preferably be used according to the invention are described below: homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups

m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ^' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride. A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl esters and Methacrylic acid Ci- ₄ alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC. Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives

cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ^® and Jaguar ^® products,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the names Merquat ^® 100

(Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. As cationic polymers and cationic protein hydrolysates can be used.

In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferred cationic polymer (s) being selected from

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or; quaternized CeIIu loose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic

Alkylpolyglycosides and / or cationised honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride Copolymers and / or quaternized

Polyvinyl alcohol and / or Polyquaternium 2 and / or Polyquaternium-7 and / or Polyquaternium-16 and / or Polyquaternium 17 and / or Polyquaternium 18 and / or Polyquaternium 24 and / or Polyquaternium 27.

In addition to the cationic polymers or in their place, the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers. In the context of the present invention preferably usable amphoteric polymers are composed essentially together

A) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁽⁾ (ZI)

In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or

Are methyl groups.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide,

Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner.

Advantageously, such monomers of formula (ZI), which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (ZI) and (Z-II) by polymerization processes known per se. As particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the

Formula (Z-I) over the monomers of formula (Z-II) were present in excess. It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (ZI) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 , consist.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the amphoteric polymer (s) comprise monomers A) and B), wherein A) and B) are selected from

A) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-I),

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. With particular preference, the amphoteric polymers used in the agents according to the invention contain monomers from the group of the acrylamides and / or methacrylamides with alkylammonium groups. Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methyl-crotonic acid have proven useful as monomers with anionic groups which are additionally present in the polymers.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred. The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, lsofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:

vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, Di-3 ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, Monomuls 90 L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has been shown that the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be increased if it is combined with hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β- Hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or

Glucuronic. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.

In addition to the surfactant (s), the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one plant extract. An extract in the sense of the present application is a substance or substance mixture which has been obtained by extraction and partial or complete evaporation of the extraction solution. A distinction is made according to the nature dry extracts. Extracts evaporated to dryness, fluid extracts i. extracts prepared with solvents such that at most 2 parts of fluid extract are recovered from one part of the drug, viscous extracts or thick extracts, i. Extracts in which part of the solvent is evaporated.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

Especially preferred are extracts of Echinacea or Moringa plants, with Echinacea extracts being particularly preferred.

The plant extracts from plants of the genus Echinacea can from various

Sonnenhutgewächsen (Echinacea, synonym: Brauneria NECKER), in particular from Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (NORTON), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E.

Tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (MCGREGOR), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), as well as from these extracts to be won

Active substances are obtained. Especially preferred are extracts of

Sonnenhutgewächsen, in particular of Echinacea purpurea (L) MOENCH used.

Very particular preference is given to pressed juices from the fresh Echinacea purpurea herb

(Echinacea purpurea Moench herba). In particular, the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.

It has been shown that certain plant extracts have a particularly positive effect on fullness,

Handle and combability of keratinic fibers have and that these positive effects through

Polyethylene glycols and related substances are reduced.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract from the group of extracts of pomegranate, roibos, almond,

Elderberry included.

Pomegranate extracts are particularly preferred according to the invention, since they significantly improve the combability, in particular the wet combability, of keratinic fibers and give the fibers more fullness and volume.

Extracts of pomegranate are mainly from the fruits, partly from whole fruits, partly from pure pulp, partly from pre-washed seeds, partly from the

Shell, won. According to the invention, all of these extracts are suitable

Cost reasons, extracts from the whole fruit are preferred because upstream separation and

Treatment steps omitted. Even pomegranate-pressed pomegranate oil can be used according to the invention as a pomegranate extract. The extracts are rich in pomegranate polyphenols such. As of punicalagin, ellagitannine or ellagic acid.

Another extract which can be used according to the invention with particular preference is

Roibos extract, also called rooibos extract.

Extracts of Roibos are made from the branches of the plant. Roibos extracts preferred according to the invention are produced from unfermented Roibos.

Almond extract. Almond extracts can be prepared from the flowers, the fruit or the stone of the fruit.

Elderberry extract. The berry-like drupes contain one to five seeds and can be black, blue or red.

Elderberry extracts can be made from the flowers, fruits or seeds of the fruits. According to the invention, extracts from the fruits of the black are particularly preferred

Elder.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.

These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only product approved worldwide that has been proven efficacy and tolerability in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone.

Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal effects on hair follicles, spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, i. the binding of DHT to the

Hair follicles are prevented.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

Additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione) are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale have different degrees of well-being

Antidandruff active ingredients react. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected from monosaccharides, in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose, disaccharides, in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose. As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 to 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to

0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to

0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.25% by weight of valine,

0.25% by weight of valine.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients are the silicones.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, which is selected from: (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) Polysiloxanes having one or more organofunctional in their general structure

Contain groups that are selected at:

substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; (per) fluorinated groups;

thiol; carboxylate groups; hydroxylated groups; alkoxylated groups;

acyloxyalkyl; amphoteric groups; bisulphite;

hydroxyacylamino groups; carboxy; Sulfonic acid groups and sulfate or

thiosulfate;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted silicone polymers with polysiloxane backbone to which they do not

silicone containing organic monomers grafted with a polysiloxane

Have main chain on which was grafted in the chain and optionally at least one of its ends at least one organic macromer, the no

Containing silicone;

or their mixtures.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.

Preferred silicones are described below.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(CH ₃₎ 3 Si- [O-Si (CH3) 2] χ-O-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 (Si-I),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature.

Preferred according to the invention can be used silicones have viscosities at 20 ⁰ C for from 0.2 to 2 mmV ^1, wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV ¹ are particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. through the formula

M (R _a Q _b Si0 ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2) x} (R _c Si0 ₍₄ - _{c) / 2) y} M

wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group of 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of the general formula -R ¹ HZ wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the group Z is bonded, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ _a . _{b) / 2} units to the R ₀ SiO _(4. _{c) / 2} units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)

R _'a G ₃ _ _a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ _n - (OSiG _b R' ₂ _ _b) _m -O-SiG ₃ _ _a -R _'a (Si-II),

contain, in which means:

G is H, phenyl, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₂ _S ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;

a is a number between O and 3, in particular O;

b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

- R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from

o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂

o -QN (FT) ₂

o -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- o -QN ⁺ H (R") ₂ A ^"

o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^"

o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^" ,

where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₂ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ - CH (CH ₃₎ Ph, the C- | ₂₀ -alkyl, preferably -CH _3, -CH ₂ CH _3. -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration. Also particularly preferred are agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as INCOME CYC LOM ETH I CON E are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV

R ₃ Si [O-SiR 2] χ- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-IV),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d-zo-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers, hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are transparent or translucent.

In the context of the present invention, transparent or translucent is understood as meaning a composition which has an NTU value of less than 100. The NTU value (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit, Nephelometric Turbidity Value, NTU) is one in the Water treatment unit used for turbidity measurements in liquids. she is the one

Unit of turbidity measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The selection of a suitable UV filter is described in the priority document DE 10 2009 027 360, to which reference is made in full. The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on

Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters,

Fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols of 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids of 8 to 22

C-atoms,

Sterols (zoosterols, e.g., cholesterols and lanosterols; phytosterols, e.g., ergosterol,

Stigmasterol and sitosterol and mycosterols),

Phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or

Plant seeds (eg soybeans), Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium,

Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, further polymers are added to the compositions according to the invention, both anionic and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which

Have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid,

Maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or

Triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention. Also known as Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate

80 sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids.

Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred

Be networking agents. Such compounds are, for example, under the trademark

Carbopol ^® commercially available.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those with crosslinks, are also dye-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention can be nonionic

Contain polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and

Benecel ^® (Aqualon) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are sold.

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^®

(National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the care of human

Hair, in which an inventive agent applied to the hair and until the next

Hair wash on the hair is left.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Another object of the present invention is the use of an agent according to the invention for hair cleaning and care, in particular for cleaning and

Care of old-age hair.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention. Examples:

All data in% by weight

Shampoo% by weight

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 EO 14.0

Sodium hydroxide solution 50% 0.2

Citric acid monohydrate 0.5

Salicylic acid 0.2

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7.0

Na benzoate 0.5

Polymer JR 400 0.5

D-panthenol 75% 0.5

Tocopheryl acetate 0.2

Keratin hydrolyzate 0.1

Euperlan PK 3000 AM 2

PhytoCellTec 2.0

Perfume 0.4

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 455 0.5

Sodium chloride fine-medium 1, 5

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

Polymer ^JR® 400 quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name:

Polyquaternium-10) (Amerchol)

PhytoCellTec dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of Malus domestica Cultivar Uttwiler Spätlauber (apple variety Uttwiler Spätlauber) (Mibelle Biochemistry)

Leave in Treatment% by weight

Synth K 0

Sepigel 305 1, 5

Dehyquart F 75 0.3

Polymer JR 400 0.2

Dow Corning 1401 Fluid 1, 5

Neutral TE 0.4

PhytoCellTec 2.0

Sedenproteinhydrolysat 0,5

Tocopheryl acetate 0.2

Carnitine 1, 5

Perfume 0.4

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 455 0.5

Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 15

Water, fully desalinated ad 100 Synthalen ^® K polyacrylic acid (about 89% active ingredient content, INCI name:

Carbomer) (3V Sigma)

Dehyquart ^® F75 fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfat dialkyl ester mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (Henkel)

^Neutral® TE N, N, N ', N', - tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine (INCI)

Name: tetrahydroxypropyl ethylene diamine) (BASF)

Dow Corning 1401 dimethylcyclosiloxane dimethylpolysiloxanol mixture (about 13%

Solid; INCI name: cyclomethicone, dimethiconol) (Dow Corning)

Sepigel ^® 305 about 45-49% solids; INCI name: polyacrylamide, Ci _3-14

Isoparaffin, Laureth-7) (Seppic)

Intensive treatment weight%

Varisoft W 75 PG 3.5

Cetearyl Alcohol 7.0

Cutina GMS-V 1, 0

Emulmetic 100 0.4

Isopropyl myristate 1, 0

Dehyquart F 75 2.0

Paraffin Liquidum 1, 0

Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1, 0

Dehyquart A CA 3.0

Methylparaben 0.4

Citric acid 0.7

PhytoCellTec 2.0

D-panthenol 75% 0.5

Nutrilan Keratin W 0.5

Niacinamide 0.2

Phenoxyethanol 0.4

Perfume 0.4

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

Varisoft ^® W 575 PG INCI name: Quaternium-87 (Goldschmidt)

Cutina ^® GMS-V glycerol mono / dipalmitate / stearate (INCI name: Glyceryl

Stearates) (Cognis)

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA trimethylhexadecylammonium (about 24 -26% of active ingredient;

INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium Chloride (Cognis)

Nutrilan ^ keratin W keratin protein hydrolyzate (about 21-23% solids; INCI name:

Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Keratin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben) (Cognis)

Claims

claims:

Composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers, containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier - in each case by weight - a) at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension,

b) at least one care substance from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts; Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide; L-ascorbic acid; thiamine; riboflavin; biotin; Taurine and / or its salts; ubiquinone; Ectoin; allantoin; Caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine; the amino acids;

c) 0.1 to 80 wt .-% of at least one surfactant.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of the subfamily Maloideae

(Pome fruit) contains.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of the genus Malus (apples), preferred plant cells are selected from cells of Malus aldenhamensis, Malus angustifolia, Malus * arnoldiana (M. baccata * M. floribunda), Malus asiatica, Malus * atrosanguineum (M. halliana * M. sieboldii), Malus baccata, Malus bracteata, Malus brevipes, Malus coronaria, Malus daochengensis, Malus dasyphylia, Malus x domestica, Malus doumeri (Bois) A.Chevalier, Malus florentina, Malus floribunda, Malus formosana, Malus fusca, Malus glabrata, Malus glaucescens, Malus halliana, Malus hilleri, Malus honanensis, Malus hupehensis, Malus ioensis, Malus kansuensis, Malus komarovii, Malus lancifolia, Malus leiocalyca, Malus * magdeburgensis, Malus

Manchurica, Malus melliana, Malus * micromalus Makino, Malus niedzwetskyana, Malus ombrophila, Malus platycarpa, Malus praecox, Malus prattii, Malus prunifolia, Malus pumila MiII., Malus * purpurea, (M. atrosanguinea * M. niedzwetskyana), Malus rockii, Malus sargentii (Syn: M. toringo ssp. Sargentii), Malus sieboldii (Syn: M. toringo), Malus * scheideckeri, Malus sikkimensis, Malus sieversii, Malus * soulardi, Malus spectabilis, Malus sublobata, Malus sylvestris, Malus toringo , Malus toringoides, Malus transitoria, Malus trilobata, Malus chonoskii, Malus yunnanensis.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of Malus domestica Cultivar Uttwiler Spätlauber (apple variety Uttwiler Spätlauber).

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it - based on their weight - 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.002 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-% , even more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 7 wt .-% plant cell suspension (s).

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that - based on their weight -0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, further preferably 0.5 to 4 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.75 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine and / or its salts.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it - based on their weight -0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 1 , 5 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.15 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% niacin and / or niacinamide and / or nicotinamide.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it - based on their weight -0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% L-ascorbic acid and / or thiamine and / or rioboflavin.

Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains -0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2% by weight to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% biotin and / or taurine and / or ectoine and / or allantoin.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it - based on their weight -0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 2.5 wt. -%, even more preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-% and

in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine contains.

11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that they amphoteric (s) surfactant (s) from the groups of

N-alkyl,

N-alkyl propionic acids,

N-alkyl aminobutyric acids,

N-alkyliminodipropionic,

N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamido,

N-alkyltaurines

N-alkylsarcosines,

2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the

alkyl group,

Alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

N-cocoalkyl,

cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate

C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine,

N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate,

2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group

Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat

the known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine

Links,

the known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

links

preferred agents containing the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%, preferably from 0.75 to 8 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains as nonionic surfactants alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) _x , wherein R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

14. A process for the care of human hair, wherein an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to the hair is left for a contact time of 10 to 600 seconds, preferably from 30 to 150 seconds on the hair, and then the hair is rinsed out.

15. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 20 for hair cleaning and care, in particular for cleaning and care of old-age hair.