EP2437853A2

EP2437853A2 - Cosmetic cleansing agent containing surfactant and royal jelly

Info

Publication number: EP2437853A2
Application number: EP10720305A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Kirsten Sartingen; Qian-Yi Li
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-06-05
Filing date: 2010-06-02
Publication date: 2012-04-11
Also published as: WO2010139716A3; DE102009026775A1; WO2010139716A2

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic cleansing agent, containing a) at least one mild anionic surfactant, b) at least one mild amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactant, c) lyophilized royal jelly, and d) at least 70% by weight of an aqueous base. The compositions are stable and highly suitable for simultaneously cleansing and conditioning skin and hair.

Description

"Surfactant-containing cosmetic cleanser with royal jelly"

The present invention relates to cosmetic cleansing compositions containing at least one mild anionic and at least one mild zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactant and lyophilized royal jelly, the use of the cleaning agent for cleaning and care of keratinic fibers and a method for solubilization and stabilization of lyophilized

Royal jelly in surfactant base formulations.

Detergents, such as cosmetic cleansers for the skin and hair such as liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower and wash gels, not only have to have a good cleaning power, but should continue to be for the skin and the

Mucous membranes are well tolerated and will not lead to excessive defatting or skin dryness even with frequent use.

For this reason, for many years trying as many hair and

To incorporate skin conditioners into the cleansers - on the one hand, to meet the requirements for simultaneous cleansing and care and, on the other hand, to allow consumers to use only one product, the two

Meets the requirements, both the advantage of time savings, as well as the advantage of

Cost saving can (as optimally a care step with a Haut- or

Haarnachbehandlungsmittel is to become superfluous).

The incorporation of skin and hair conditioners in a surfactant-containing

However, cleansing formulations continue to pose great difficulties to the manufacturers of such compositions, especially mineral, natural or synthetic fat, wax and oil components, which have been shown to leave a nourishing and conditioning effect on the skin and hair do not incorporate by simply mixing in a Tensidbasis.

Thus, in recent years, for example, it was necessary to incorporate pearlescing agents, special polymers and / or salts into cosmetic cleaners so that, for example, silicones could be suspended in the formulations in a storage-stable manner.

Recently, the trend is back to natural cosmetic products on the

Base of mild (preferably biodegradable) surfactants that are to contain natural care substances of plant or animal origin. In such products, both the number of not necessarily necessary active ingredients are to be minimized, which cause an irritation potential on the skin or the scalp, as well as the necessary components strictly on

Skin compatibility, mildness and biodegradability are respected.

Royal Jelly has anti-inflammatory and supports the immune system. It is offered in the form of capsules for oral use.

Due to its positive effects, one strives to make royal jelly also in cosmetic

To use funds. However, it has hitherto been problematic to offer royal jelly for cosmetic use as a freeze-dried powder concentrate (lyophilized 3: 1) and in this form can not easily get into a cosmetic formulation and stabilize it over a long period of time.

Especially in the preparation of clear formulations, the incorporation of lyophilized royal jelly into cosmetic cleansing formulations poses problems because it can not be stably dissolved or solubilized in the aqueous base, whereby clear formulations can not be obtained.

The aim of the present invention was therefore to find a way to develop cosmetic aqueous cleansers for the skin and hair containing lyophilized royal jelly.

A further aim was to stably solubilize the lyophilized royal jelly in the aqueous surfactant base over a long period of time, so that temperature fluctuations have no effect on the quality of the cleaning agent, in particular on its clarity or its viscosity.

Yet another object of the invention was to produce a mild royal jelly based cleanser which has a sufficiently high viscosity to allow it to be easily applied from a container without "bleeding" and dripping Keep the storage as possible.

Finally, the royal jelly-based cleaners should further enhance the effective cleansing and care of the skin and hair. In particular, by incorporating royal jelly into the skin cleanser, the skin should become more resistant to extreme weather conditions so that it becomes less dry and instead softer and more velvety. The effects of sun exposure, which accelerates skin aging, should also be alleviated. The skin should feel younger and fresher after nourishing cleansing. These goals have been achieved by combining lyophilized royal jelly with a special, mild surfactant base. The present invention therefore relates to cosmetic cleansing compositions which comprise a) at least one mild anionic surfactant, b) at least one mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant, c) lyophilized royal jelly and d) at least 70% by weight of an aqueous base.

The regular cleansing with the mild cleansing agents according to the invention led to an improved skin condition - the skin felt smoother and looked altogether fresher and full of elasticity.

In a first preferred embodiment, the cleaning agents according to the invention are formulated as clear formulations, which are preferably highly viscous.

A clear composition according to the invention is understood to mean a composition which has an NTU value (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit = <50, preferably <30, particularly preferably <20 and in particular <10). By "high viscosity" is meant, in accordance with the present invention, a viscosity of the compositions in the range of 6,000 to 11,000 mPas, preferably 6,500 to 10,500, more preferably 7,000 to 10,000 mPas and most preferably 8,000 to 9,500 mPas (each measured with a Haake VT550 rotational viscometer; ⁰ C, measuring device MV, spindle MV II, 8 rpm) In order to achieve the requirement of clarity, it is particularly important to stably solubilize royal jelly in the cleaning formulation.

This can be achieved by completely dissolving lyophilized royal jelly (as available, for example, under the trade name "Gelee Royale, lyophilized, 3: 1" from Pfannenschmidt) in a mixture of water and a betaine and homogenizing the surfactant base Solution is added.

The mixing ratio of lyophilized royal jelly is preferably: water: betaine 1: (50-200): (50-200).

The total amount used of the lyophilized royal jelly (Gelee Royale, lyophilized 3: 1, Pfannenschmidt) in the detergents according to the invention is - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 2.5 wt. -%, more preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 1, 5 wt .-%.

The term "betaine" is to be understood as amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, which are defined in greater detail in the paragraph of the surfactants.

The surfactant base is selected according to the invention from mild anionic and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanol- ammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C. Atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2 "CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene - and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2- 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C. Atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (T1),

O

R2 (OCH ₂ CH ₂₎ n O - P - OR3 (Tl)

OX

in the R ^{29 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{30 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ²⁹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³¹ R ³² R ³³ R ³⁴ , with R ³¹ to R ³⁴ independently of one another represents a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (TII) R ³⁵ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (TII) in the R ³⁵ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (TIN),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x COR ³⁶

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H (TIN)

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _Z -SO ₃ X

in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.

Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (TIN) in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used. Preferred anionic surfactants, due to their mild action on the skin, are alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates, ether carboxylic acids and / or sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 4, oxyethyl groups. These preferred anionic surfactants can be used both individually and as a mixture in the preparations according to the invention.

The anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the inventive detergents - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.05 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 25 parts by weight. %, more preferably from 0.25 to 20 wt .-% and in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-% used.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ^ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as alkylbetaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate , and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant according to the invention is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ _{-C 2Λ} -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Particularly preferred zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants are C ₈ _i ₈ -alkyl betaines, C ₈ _i ₈ - and / or C ₈ _i ₈ -Alkylamphomono- or diacetates. The ampholytic / zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the cleaning agents according to the invention - based on their weight - in a total amount of 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0 , 1 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 10 wt .-% and in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-%.

Particularly preferred mixtures of anionic and amphotytic / zwitterionic surfactants each contain at least one member from the following group of anionic and amphotytic / zwitterionic surfactants: alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl glutamates or sulfosuccinates and alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, Alkylamidoalkylbetaine, Alkylamphoacetate and propionates. Particularly preferred is a mixture of alkyl ether sulfates and Alkylamidoalkylbetainen. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the cleaning agents for increasing the skin-milding properties and for improving the foam quality additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant in an amount such that the ratio of anionic surfactant (s): amphoteric / zwitterionic (n ) Surfactant (s): nonionic surfactant (s) (8-15): (2-4): 1. Suitable nonionic surfactants according to the invention are, for example, end-capped adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear or branched fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acids with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenyls having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the sales names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis) types, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ³⁷ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ³⁸ ) _W OR ³⁹ , (TIV), in which R ³⁷ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{38 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{39 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides.

Another group of particularly suitable nonionic surfactants according to the invention are the alkyl polyglucosides. They correspond to the formula (I) R ¹ O- [G] _P (I) in the R ¹ for an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G for a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p for numbers of 1 to 10 stands. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p must always be an integer in a given compound, and especially the If p = 1 to 6 can be assumed, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose Oligomerisierungsgrad less than 1, 7 and is in particular between 1, 2 and 1, 7. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1-3) which are obtained as a preliminary stream in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol can be contaminated as well as Alkyloligoglucoside based on technical C _9/11 -Oxoalkohole (DP = 1-3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as can be obtained as described above.

According to the invention very particularly preferably alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated _{C12 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1-3, such as are commercially available for example under the INCI name "Coco-Glucoside".

The inventive surfactant mixture produces a creamy, rich foam which feels soft and gives the consumer the feeling of care. Particularly preferred is a surfactant mixture of alkyl ether sulfates, Alkylamidoalkylbetainen and Alkylpolyglucosiden in the above ratio.

The cleaning compositions of the invention based on the aforementioned surfactant combination and the lyophilized royal jelly, which is pre-solubilized in the described manner to give the surfactant mixture, imparts elasticity to the skin treated therewith. The Royal Jelly also revitalizes deeper skin layers during cleansing, making the skin look younger and fresher.

In addition to cleaning and revitalization but also the care of the skin / scalp plays a major role. It is therefore desirable that the cleaning agents according to the invention also have a conditioning effect, so that optimally a cleaning step following the cleaning step is not necessary.

For this purpose, the cleaning agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one oil component in a further preferred embodiment.

These may be selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and natural oils of vegetable and animal origin. It is (are) in the detergents according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 parts by weight. % and in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-% used.

The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Particular preference is given to selecting (s) silicone (s) suitable according to the invention as at least one member selected from the group of organosilicon compounds which are formed from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3; (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone; (vi) or mixtures thereof.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale. Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used. The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether , Di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n Undecyln-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds 1, 3-di (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE) available as commercial products may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit®), isononanoic acid C _16-i ₈ alkyl ester (Cetiol SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol 868), cetyl oleate, Glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n -butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotricanecanoate, propylene glycol di ( 2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl - carbonate (Cetiol® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a vegetable oil is used as the oil component.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, Sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil in question.

According to the invention, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rose hip kernel oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, shea butter, sunflower oil and grapeseed oil are particularly preferred.

The incorporation of other nourishing substances - especially other oil components - can adversely affect the stability and clarity of the compositions. In order to avoid this undesirable aspect, the composition according to the invention for further stabilization of the oil component (s) and of all other conditioning active ingredients in a further preferred embodiment, a mixture of solubilizers is added, which are selected from

A. ethoxylated fatty alcohols,

B. ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils and

C. ethoxylated mono-, di- or triglycerol esters, wherein the ratio of components A: B: C is in the range of 1: (2-4): (3-4).

By incorporating this mixture of solubilizers in the inventive

Purification preparations could be royal jelly in addition to one or more of the aforementioned

Stable oil components are stabilized in the formulation, so that unchanged clear formulations with high viscosities could be produced, which also in storage and in

Temperature changes did not change. For the clarity and viscosity of the

Detergents are subject to the limits already defined earlier.

The first mandatory component A. of the emulsifier mixture is an ethoxylated fatty alcohol, which is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -

C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, preferably a C ₁₀ -C ₂ o-fatty alcohol, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -

Fatty alcohol and in particular a C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohol having a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 18, preferably from 5 to 16, particularly preferably from 7 to 14 and especially from 8 to 12, is.

Preferred components A according to the invention are, for example, deceth-5, deceth-7,

Undeceth-7, Laureth-4, Laureth-5, Laureth-6, Laureth-7, Laureth-8, Laureth-9, Laureth-10,

Laureth-12, Trideceth-5, Trideceth-7, Trideceth-8, Trideceth-9, Trideceth-10, Triedceth-12,

Myreth-8, Myreth-10 and Myreth-12. Particularly preferred are Laureth-7, Laureth-8, Laureth-9,

Laureth-10, trideceth-5, trideceth-7, trideceth-8, trideceth-9, trideceth-10, and particularly preferred is trideceth-9.

Component B is according to the invention ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil with a

Degree of ethoxylation from 5 to 80, preferably from 10 to 60, particularly preferably from 25 to 50 and in particular from 35 to 45.

Particularly suitable are PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor OiI,

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, in particular, is suitable

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI as ^®, for example, under the trade name Cremophor

RH 410 or Eumulgin ^® HRE is commercially 455th According to the invention it is also possible to use components A. and B. in a mixture. Such so-called "solubilizer" mixtures are commercially available, for example under the name solubilizer ^® 61 1674 or solubilizer ^® 660 352 available.

The third essential component C. of the emulsifier mixture is a monoester and / or a mixture of monoesters and diesters of glycerol with branched or straight-chain, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having a C chain length of from 8 to 24, preferably from 10 to 18 and in particular 12 to 16, which have a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 17, particularly preferably from 4 to 13 and in particular from 6 to 10. Ethoxylated glyceryl oleates and Glycerylcocoate According to the invention, and particularly preferred is PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as is available commercially for example under the name Tegosoft ^® GC or Cetiol ^® HE.

The three emulsifiers A., B. and C. are in the cleaning compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in each case in an amount of 0.05 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and in particular from 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% used.

The pH of the detergents according to the invention is ideally in a skin-friendly range of about 3 to 7, preferably in a range of 4 to 6.5 and in particular in a range of 4.5 to 5.5.

In certain cases, consumers do not prefer clear compositions. In particular, when rich cleansing, nourishing and regenerating preparations are used as in the compositions of this invention, some consumers prefer cloudy, milky or pearlescent compositions as they associate enhanced care and mildness with such appearance.

In order to comply with this request, the cleaning agents according to the invention may additionally contain a clouding agent in a further embodiment.

As a suitable opacifier, for example CP styrene-acrylic acid OP is used, which is commercially available as a 40% solution. The amount used of the solution in the cleaning agents according to the invention is 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 2 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the cleaning agent. In addition to the abovementioned constituents, the cleaning agents according to the invention may contain a number of further optional constituents. Preference is given to adding further active ingredients to the detergents which have cosmetic care properties. As such, in particular the cationic polymers, the plants extra kte and the humectants are to be mentioned as further preferred optional components.

By cationic polymers suitable according to the invention are meant polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups In particular those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group has a C |. ₄ - Hydrocarbon group are bonded to a constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (VI),

R17

- [CH ₂ -C-] ,, X- (VI)

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) mN ⁺ Ri8Ri9R20

in which R ¹⁷ = -H or -CH _3, R ^18, R ¹⁹ and R ²⁰ are independently selected from C-ι_ ₄ -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹⁷ is a methyl group

R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ²⁰ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.Hiidium ions, in particular chloride, are preferred. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, Sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (VI) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl acrylate and C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl methacrylates. Among these nonionic monomers is the acrylamide particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC. Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50 , cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the trade names cos media ^® guar and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of Dialkylaminoalkylacry- lats and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are available under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and

Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is at least one polymer from the group of cationic guar derivatives and / or Polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550), Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-10 and / or as a cationic polymer Polyquaternium-67 (SoftCat ^® polymers) in the compositions of the invention.

The cationic polymer (s) is (are) in the cleaning agents according to the invention - based on the total composition - in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Amounts of from 0.2 to 3, especially from 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, are particularly preferred. By plant extracts suitable according to the invention are meant extracts which can be prepared from all parts of a plant.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

According to the invention are especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, linden, lychee, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens prefers.

As extractants for the preparation of said plants extra kte water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Extra kte plants based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if humectants or penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are contained in the cleaning agent according to the invention. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol. Particularly suitable according to the invention is glycerol.

The humectants are in the inventive compositions - based on the total composition - in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 % By weight used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the clear or cloudy cleaning agent according to the invention is formulated as a hair shampoo, shower gel, shower bath, wash gel, facial cleanser, hand wash and / or bubble bath. As such, it may contain, in addition to the aforementioned mandatory and preferred optional components, other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which will be described below. Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats. The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound according to the invention from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The cationic surfactants are preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the detergent as a whole , Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. It may also be advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the cationic polymers, further natural and / or synthetic polymers which may be anionic or amphoteric and nonionic. The anionic polymers are usually anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A special preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt , This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® QM ^® commercially available.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as constituents as polymers for increasing the action of the agent according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and COO in the molecule - or -SO ₃ - groups, and those polymers comprising those -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

Preferably usable amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (PII), R ²² -CH = CR ²³ -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ²⁴ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ A ⁽⁾ (PII) in R ²² and R ²³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (PNI),

R ²⁷ -CH = CR ²⁸ -COOH (PNI) in which R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly made to the content of German Patent Application 39 29 973 reference. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ^{26 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers according to the invention are:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as, for example, under the trademark

Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and

Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as used for example under the trademarks Culminal ^® and

Benecel ^® (AQUALON).

shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

It is also possible according to the invention that several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or one ionic and one amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer are used simultaneously.

The use of the further polymers in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, is preferred according to the invention. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment of the invention, protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof can be used to increase the activity of the composition according to the invention. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention are protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are for example under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention, the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae , or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, can originate. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives of the invention include the products available under INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiIk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypro Hydroxyprylium Hydrolyzed Silicon, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin , Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silica, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed wheat protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.

Also advantageous has proved to be the combination of the composition according to the invention with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The vitamin A component is preferably used in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

• Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

• Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

• Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably used in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

• Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). The usual amount used of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, meanwhile, the trivial name biotin has prevailed. Biotin is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, a UV filter (I) can additionally be used. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610). The UV filter (s) is (are) usually used in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In addition to the compelling components according to the invention and the other preferred components mentioned above, it is possible in principle to use all other components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions. Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example:

Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. Methylcellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose,

Amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic

Hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

cyclodextrins

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole, other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and β-

Hydroxy carboxylic acids,

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

pigments

Preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,

Viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).

A second object of the invention is the use of the cleaning agent according to the invention for the cleansing and care of skin and hair.

A third aspect of the invention is a process for the solubilization and stabilization of lyophilized royal jelly in a surfactant cleaning formulation in which the lyophilized royal jelly is first dissolved in a mixture of water / betaine, and then added to the surfactant mixture as a homogeneous solution.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention. All data in the examples are by weight unless otherwise stated.

Examples

Raw material 1 2 3 4 5

(SLES), 2 EO, 70% 15 10 15 15 12

CAPB 40% 8.5 10 8 10 7

Plantacare 818 UP ^®1 2 1, 5 2 2.5 1 5

Conditioner ^®2 P7 - 1, 5 2 - -

Polymer ^{® 3} JR 400 0.15 - 0.1 0.2 0.15

Glycerol 86% 1 1 1 1 1

Royal jelly, lyophilized 3: 1 0.01 0.1 0.2 0.05 0.15

Sodium benzoate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

Sodium salicylate 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 455 0.4 - 0.2 0.6 0.5

Citric acid 0.44 0.5 0.7 0.5 0.45

Almond oil, sweet 0.1 - 0.1 0.3 0.25

Perfume 1 1 1 1 1

Solubilizer 660352 ^®4 0.5 - 0.5 0.7 0.5

Cetiol HE ^®5 0.8 to 1 1 1

CP styrene-acrylic acid OP 40% 1 - - 1 -

NaCl 0.3 0.5 0.2 0.4 0.6

Antil ^®6 141 0.4 0.35 0.6 0.4 0.4

Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

SLES: INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2 EO); 68-75% AS; Cognis

CAPB: INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine; about 40% AS; Cognis

1 INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua; about 50% AS; Cognis

1 INCI name: Polyquaternium-7, Aqua; Sigma

2 INCI name: Polyquaternium-10; Dow

3 INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, Trideceth-9, Propylene glycol,

aqua; Symrise

4 INCI name: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; Cognis

5 INCI name: Propylene Glycol, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate; Goldschmidt

The cleaning compositions 2, 3 and 5 are highly viscous and clear. Compositions 1 and 4 are cloudy. The cleansing of the skin with the compositions resulted in clean and well-groomed skin that felt soft and velvety.

Claims

claims:

1. A cosmetic cleaning composition comprising a) at least one mild anionic surfactant, b) at least one mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant, c) lyophilized royal jelly and d) at least 70 wt .-% of an aqueous base.

2. Cleaning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally contains a nonionic surfactant, wherein the ratio of anionic, zwitterionic / amphoteric (s) and nonionic (s) surfactant (s) (8-15) : (2-4): 1.

3. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic surfactants are selected from Alkylpolyglykolethersulfaten, ether carboxylic acids and / or sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylestern having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably with 1 to 4 oxyethyl groups , the amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are selected from C ₈ -i ₈ -alkylbetaines, C. ₈ ₁₈ - alkylamido (C-ι ^) - alkyl betaines and / or C ₈ -diacetaten -i ₈ or -Alkylamphomono-.

4. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 2 Wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 1, 5 wt .-% lyophilized royal jelly.

5. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it - based on its weight - additionally 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% of at least one oil component selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and natural oils of vegetable and animal origin.

6. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it

A. ethoxylated fatty alcohols,

B. ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils and

C. ethoxylated mono, di or triglycerol ester, in a ratio of components A: B: C in the range of 1: (2-4): (3-4).

7. Cleaning agent according to claim 6, characterized in that the component A is selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, preferably from C ₁₀ -C ₂ o-fatty alcohols, particularly preferably from C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols and in particular from C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ Fatty alcohols having a degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to 18, preferably from 5 to 16, particularly preferably from 7 to 14 and in particular from 8 to 12.

8. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that component B has a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 80, preferably from 10 to 60, particularly preferably from 25 to 50 and in particular from 35 to 45.

9. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that component C is selected from monoesters and / or mixtures of monoesters and diesters of glycerol with branched, or straight-chain, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having a C chain length of 8 to 24 , preferably from 10 to 18 and in particular from 12 to 16, which have a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 17, particularly preferably from 4 to 13 and in particular from 6 to 10.

10. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it has a viscosity in the range of 6,000 to 11,000 mPas, preferably from 6,500 to 10,500, more preferably from 7.000 to 10,000 mPas and in particular from 8,000 to 9,500 mPas (each measured II spindle MV;; using a Haake VT550 rotational viscometer; 20 ⁰ C; measuring means MV 8 UPM) has.

11. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains a clouding agent.

12. Cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further contains at least one hair and / or skin conditioning agent selected from the group of cationic polymers, plant extracts and humectants.

13. Use of a cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 12 for cleaning and care of skin and hair.

14. A method for the solubilization and stabilization of lyophilized royal jelly in a surfactant cleaning formulation, characterized in that it is first dissolved in a mixture of water / betaine, and then added to the surfactant mixture as a homogeneous solution.