EP2331211A2

EP2331211A2 - Anti-dandruff and anti-relapse shampoo

Info

Publication number: EP2331211A2
Application number: EP09736169A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thomas Hippe; Thomas Schröder
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-10-08
Filing date: 2009-09-30
Publication date: 2011-06-15
Also published as: DE102008050430A1; WO2010040671A2; WO2010040671A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic product which is effectively used for controlling dandruff on hairy body surfaces and which contains an active combination of A) 0.5 to 20% by weight of at least one anionic sulfate surfactant and/or sulfonate surfactant, B) 0.05 to 5% by weight of zinc pyrithion of a particle size < 2 μm and C) 0.05 to 5% by weight of a cationic polygalactomannane or of a derivative of the cationic polygalactomannane having a cationic charge density of 0.1 – 1.5 meq/g and a molecular weight of 500,000 to 3,000,000. Treating hair with the product according to the invention also helps reduce the likelihood of a relapse of dandruff formation once the product is no longer used.

Description

Anti-dandruff and anti-relapse shampoo

The invention relates to a cosmetic agent for controlling dandruff on the basis of a special combination of active ingredients, a method for the treatment of dander by using the agent and the use of the agent for the prophylaxis, reduction, elimination and alleviation of dandruff on hairy body surfaces and to reduce the relapse Dandruff on hairy Körperreg ions after discontinuation of the agent.

Skin and hair cleansers, such as those commercially available as liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower gels, and wash gels, not only must have good detergency, but should also be well tolerated by the skin and hair if used frequently, do not cause excessive defatting or dryness.

Usually, skin and hair cleaners based on anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, but most preferably based on anionic surfactants are formulated. While such compositions have good detergency, their associated cosmetic properties are inadequate, especially due to the removal of skin and hair lipids and proteins from the skin or hair surface.

Another important aspect of hair cleansing and care is the fight against dandruff, because even the slight appearance of dandruff on the scalp or other hairy body regions is considered a sign of lack of care. In addition, dandruff is usually accompanied by itching, which is perceived as disturbing. Itching, on the other hand, causes scratching reactions, which can lead to injuries of the affected skin, which in turn can form the basis for infections and pathogenic agents. In general, anti-dandruff treatment is understood to mean the control of the phytosporum ovale yeast fungus which, in the case of excessive occurrence, is the cause of cosmetic dandruff. As an effective anti-dandruff agent, the solid zinc pyrithione has been proven, but must be stabilized, for example, in a Shampoomatrix, since it is there in solid, undissolved form. Without adequate stabilization, the active ingredient would otherwise sink to the bottom and thus lose the shampoo's anti-dandruff action.

The requirements for a cosmetic remedy for dandruff are therefore high, because on the one hand the scalp should be thoroughly and permanently freed of dandruff, and on the other hand, the remedy for hair and scalp should be well tolerated.

Another important requirement is the fastest possible effect, so that the above-mentioned chain of disadvantages does not even occur.

Finally, the dandruff control should be sustainable. Sustainability in this context means that even after discontinuation of the anti-dandruff agent Dysregulation is greatly delayed and / or reduced. Ideally, none should

Rebuilding of the neoplasm occurs after discontinuation of the remedy (anti-relapse effect).

In addition to these effects on the application surface, the problem of stabilizing the antidandruff active (zinc pyrithione) in the matrix of the antidandruff agent must also be solved.

Known in the literature and practice is the effective stabilization of zinc pyrithione by

Acrylate polymers (Carbopol types) or xanthan gum gellants.

The use of gelling agents, however, has disadvantages, since these have a negative effect on the

Foaming of a surfactant-containing detergent can affect. They are therefore less suitable for the stabilization of ZnPy (zinc pyrithione) in a hair shampoo, in which an effective foaming is just being sought.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an anti-dandruff agent which meets all the above requirements and in which the anti-dandruff agent (ZnPy) is effectively stabilized without the compelling presence of gelling agents.

From the literature, a variety of hair cosmetics are known that the

Prevent or reduce dandruff. You can usually choose from funds in the

Form of shampoos, lotions or hair lotions.

A disadvantage of the means of the prior art has been that while effective against

Dandruff, but this effect occurred only after frequent use.

Furthermore, no anti-dandruff agents are known from the prior art which relate to the sustained control of dander (anti-relapse) or the stabilization of ZnPy in a "gellant-free" formulation.

It has now been found, completely surprisingly, that the combination of a zinc pyrithione of a defined particle size with a specific cationic polymer in a surfactant base solves the abovementioned requirements to a high degree.

In particular, it has been found that with the means not only fast and effective

Scalp dandruff can be fought, but that too several weeks after

Discontinuation of the remedy occurs a significantly smaller amount of dandruff than before

Use of the agent. Furthermore, effective stabilization of the zinc pyrithione in a "gellant-free" preparation could be achieved by using ZnPy <2 μm in particle size, thus not affecting the foam and the foam quality of the agent.

Finally, by the compelling presence of a certain cationic polymer as a further advantage of the invention, a gentle treatment of the scalp (or hairy

Body regions) are achieved and the treated hair was also improved

Care properties with regard to combability, shine and suppleness.

The invention therefore antidandruff agents, as the active ingredient combination

- based on their total weight -

A) 0.5-20% by weight of at least one anionic sulphate and / or sulphonate surfactant,

B) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% zinc pyrithione a particle size <2 microns and C) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of a cationic polygalactomannan or a derivative of the cationic polygalactomannan with a cationic charge density of 0.1 to 1, 5 meq / g and a molecular weight of 500,000 to 3,000,000. contain.

It has been found that the agents according to the invention solve the aforementioned objects in a particular pH range particularly well. Therefore, agents according to the invention are preferred which have a pH <6, preferably <5.8 and in particular <5.5.

At the same time, it must not fall below a certain pH, otherwise the remedies are too aggressive to the skin / scalp. Optimally, the compositions according to the invention consequently have a pH of at least 2.5, preferably of at least 3 and in particular of at least 3.5.

As the first compulsory component, the compositions according to the invention for achieving effective and gentle cleaning of the hair and hairy body surfaces contain at least one anionic surfactant. This is according to the invention foamy anionic sulfate and / or sulfonate A) having a linear or branched alkyl chain having a chain length of 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18 and in particular from 10 to 16 carbon atoms in the molecule, and a degree of ethoxylation from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially from 2 to 4.

Particularly preferred examples of anionic surfactants A) which are suitable according to the invention are the alkali metal ammonium and / or di- and triethanolamine salts of 2- or 3-tuply ethoxylated, branched or straight-chain lauryl, pareth and / or trideceth sulfates such as laureth (2) sulfate, laureth (3) sulfates, trideceth (2) sulfates and trideceth (3) sulfates. Specific and particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO), sodium lauryl ether sulfate (3EO), ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO), ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (3EO), sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate (2EO), sodium trideceth sulfate (3EO), ammonium trideceth sulfate (2EO) and ammonium trideceth sulfate (3EO ).

The one or more specific anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the inventive compositions - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of from 3 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 4 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 5 to 13 wt .-% used.

In order to achieve an optimal balance in terms of purification, mildness and foam quality of the compositions according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred if, in addition to the compelling anionic surfactant (s), they comprise at least one further surfactant selected from the group of amphoteric / zwitterionic and / or the nonionic surfactants is selected. Particular preference is given to a ratio of the anionic surfactant A) to the sum of the further surfactants in the range from 6: 1 to 1: 2, preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5 and in particular in the range from 4.5: 1 to 1: 1, 25.

Zwitterionic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ '^"' group in the molecule Surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3- Hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarb oxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Amphoteric surfactants according to the invention are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and which are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine.

The amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are used in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 12.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight. % and in particular from 1 to 5 wt .-% used - in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention suitable nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT types (Cognis), C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, for example castor oil-hydrogenated + 40 EO, as it is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Cremophor CO 455 from SHC,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl ester of formula (V) in the R ¹⁴ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{15 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{16 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,

Alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

Particular preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁ alkyl groups or substantially of C ₂ - and C ₄ - alkyl groups or essentially of C ₈ - to C- ₆ alkyl groups or consisting essentially of Ci ₂ - to Ci ₆ - alkyl groups or consisting essentially of Ci ₆ to Ci ₈ alkyl groups. As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.

The alkoxylated homologs of said alkylpolyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit. Nonionic surfactants preferred according to the invention are the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and the alkylpolyglycosides which are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, based on their total weight. , More preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are included. According to a further embodiment of the invention, the antidandruff agents according to the invention may further comprise cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats. The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound according to the invention from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The cationic surfactants are preferably used in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% based on the entire medium, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The second obligatory component of the agent according to the invention is the anti-dandruff agent zinc pyrithione, which must be effectively stabilized in the matrix of the agent, so that no flocculation or no settling of the antidandruff active agent occurs even after prolonged storage of the agent.

This stabilization is possible when the ZnPy is combined with a cationic polymer C) in the aforementioned surfactant base. Of particular advantage for the stabilization is when ZnPy a certain, defined particle size is used. Thus, the best stabilization results are achieved if at least 85%, preferably at least 90% and in particular at least 95% of the zinc pyrithione particles have an average particle size <1.8 μm, preferably <1.5 μm, more preferably <1, 3 microns and in particular <1, 0 microns have.

A zinc pyrithione suitable according to the invention is marketed, for example, by the company Connect Chemicals under the trade name "Tomicide ZPT 50. ZnPy is added in an amount in the compositions according to the invention, based on its total weight from 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0.2 to 2 wt .-% used.

A suitable compelling component C) according to the invention is cationic

Polygalactomannan or one of its derivatives having a cationic charge density of 0.1 to

1.5 meq / g and a molecular weight of 500,000 to 3,000,000. It has been found that by the presence of these specific cationic polymers in the

Antidandruff composition the rheological properties of the agent (associated with the

Stabilization of the ZnPy) and the foam quantity and stability can be positively influenced. Furthermore, the cationic polymer causes a conditioning effect on the

Hair and these are easier to comb and shiny.

Cationic galactomannans or their derivatives (C)) which have a cationic charge density of 0.2 to 1.3 meq / g, preferably 0.3 to 1.1 meq / g and in particular 0.4, have proven to be particularly suitable to 0.9 meq / g and a molecular weight of 700,000 to

2,000,000, preferably from 900,000 to 1, 750,000, more preferably from 1, 000,000 to 1, 500,000 and especially from 1, 150,000 to 1, 400,000.

They are in the compositions of the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.02 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably from

0.05 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-% used.

Examples of suitable according to the invention commercial products are, for example, those under the

Trade name Jaguar ^® 162 ^® Jaguar C13S and Jaguar ^® Excel from Rhodia, and N-

^Hance® 3196 products sold by Hercules.

In addition to the anti-dandruff effect is the conditioning and care of the hair and the

Scalp is an important aspect of the invention. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the

Anti-dandruff agent in addition to the aforementioned mandatory components in support of the

Moisturizing ability of the skin and hair further contains a complex of active ingredients, the D-panthenol and at least one other vitamin, a vitamin precursor or a

Vitamin derivative or at least one protein hydrolyzate.

D-panthenol is in the compositions of the invention - based on her

Total weight - in an amount of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.02 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 0.5 % By weight used.

The ratio of panthenol to vitamin (vitamin precursor or derivative) or to

Protein hydrolyzate is preferably in the range from 50: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 30: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 25: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular from 20: 1 to 1: 3.

Under the invention preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their

Derivatives are to be understood as those representatives which are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a vitamin

A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters,

Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate in Consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in

Amounts of 0.01-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and

Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).

Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The said compounds of the vitamin B group are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-2% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.03 - 1 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The

Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Preferably, the agents according to the invention contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Of course, several vitamins and

Vitamin precursors may be included at the same time.

Protein hydrolyzates in the context of the invention are understood as meaning protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H). Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Totalhydrolysate and individual

Amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood.

Furthermore, the invention consists of amino acids and amino acid derivatives

Polymers understood by the term protein hydrolysates. For example, the latter are

Polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-

Methionine-S-Methylsulfoniumchlorid. Of course, according to the invention, Amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention lies between

75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana)

Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co)

Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention are the protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Eg soybean,

Almond, pea, potato, rice and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex),

Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), and

Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

The protein hydrolysates or their derivatives are preferred in the agents according to the invention

Amounts of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the inventive

Means to Support the Effect of the Invention Further, at least one "benefit agent", which may be selected from anti-dandruff agents other than B),

Preservatives, UV filters, vegetable, animal, mineral and synthetic oils,

Thickeners, polymers, humectants, hair structurants, hair care products,

Hair restorers and hair loss products.

Of particular advantage for the invention is when the anti-dandruff agent at least one

Component from the group selected from vegetable oils, silicones,

Fatty acids, fatty alcohols, amino acids and / or derivatives thereof, plant extracts, cationic polymers other than C), cationic surfactants, and

Hair structurants.

The benefit agents and their preferred amounts are described below:

Preservatives which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the group formed from benzoic acid, propionic acid, salicylic acid and / or sorbic acid, and from the cosmetically acceptable salts and esters of these acids, from formaldehyde and / or

Paraformaldehyde, from benzyl alcohol, germall, dowicil, kathon, baypival, methylisothiazolines, quaternary ammonium compounds, alcohols and / or from essential oils such as tea tree oil,

Cineole, eugenol, geraniol, limonene, menthol and / or thymol.

They are the compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 2 % By weight added. Very particularly preferred preservatives according to the invention are benzoic acid, salicylic acid and / or a cosmetically acceptable salt or a cosmetically acceptable ester of these acids, benzyl alcohol, dowicil, Kathon, Baypival, methylisothiazolines and mixtures of these substances.

Suitable antidandruff agents other than B) are added to the compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.% And in particular of 0.3 to 2, 0 wt .-% added (based on the total agent) and are selected from Piroctone olamine, climbazole, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, Undecensäurederivaten, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.

Salicylic acid, climbazole and piroctone olamine are preferred according to the invention. Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610). Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the agent according to the invention can be optimized by the addition of vegetable, animal, mineral and synthetic oils. These include fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.2-10% by weight, with amounts of 0.5-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ - C ₂₂ - and particularly preferably C ₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight. The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the effect of the agent according to the invention include, for example: liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 ° C Atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether , n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl-n- octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, Monomuls 90 L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD.

The amount used is - based on the total agent - 0.1 to 50 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.%.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

Apricot kernel oil, rosehip kernel oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, amaranth seed oil, shea butter and cocoa butter are among the natural oil components particularly preferred according to the invention.

The vegetable oils are in the inventive compositions - based on the total weight of the agent - in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% used.

As further advantageous, it has been shown that polymers are included in the inventive compositions. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, polymers are added to the compositions used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

Polymers have several functions in the compositions according to the invention. On the one hand, in particular, cationic polymers in cosmetic compositions (and the compositions according to the invention can serve as a cosmetic composition) serve as conditioners for the skin and the hair. Cationic polymers also serve as deposition aids for fats, waxes and oils, as well as for silicones.

Furthermore, polymers have film-forming properties and often thickening properties, and therefore their use in compositions in which viscosity stability plays a major role is also preferred.

Particularly preferred is the use of cationic polymers which differ from the polymers C). They are added to the compositions of the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.02 to 3 and in particular from 0.05 to 2 wt .-%. Cationic polymers which are suitable according to the invention are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group via a CI_ ₄ - are attached to a hydrocarbon group made up of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof, polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (PI),

R ¹⁸

- [CH ₂ -CJ _n X ^" (PI)

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ¹⁹ R ²⁰ R ²¹

in which R ¹⁸ = -H or -CH _3, R ^19, R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are independently selected from C-ι_ ₄ -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹⁸ is a methyl group

R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.Holyidene ions, in particular chloride, are particularly suitable A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent The homopolymer is preferably incorporated in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight setup. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (PI) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl acrylate and C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl methacrylates. Among these nonionic monomers is the acrylamide particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers are commercially available under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd Further, particularly preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and polymer

^JR® are commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives

hydrophobically modified cationic polymers, as described, for example, in US Pat

Trade name SoftCat ^® and Polymer ^® SL are commercially available

cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

- cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

- Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as those commercially available

Products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM 55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; di- quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,

- Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, such as those available under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as those under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and

Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. Also usable according to the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, as they are known as Commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110 Luviquat.RTM ^® 8155 and Luviquat.RTM ^® MS are available 370th According to the invention particularly preferred, different from c), cationic polymers are those available under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially quaternized cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-4). Corresponding commercial products are available under the names Polymer ^® JR 400, Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L 200. Further, cationized protein to the cationic polymers to count, wherein the protein hydrolyzate can originate from animal, for example, collagen, milk or keratin, of the plant, for example, from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates may originate. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention are the products mentioned under the INCI and called: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropy Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants. They are also regarded as "hair structureants" and are therefore preferred in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 5% by weight and in particular in amounts of from 0.01 to 3% by weight. % (based on the total weight of funds).

Furthermore, the provitamins panthenol and pantolactone, the vitamin derivative niacinamide and the active ingredients arginine, acetyl tyrosine and sericin are among the "hair structuring agents." Their use is likewise preferred in the compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as cosmetic hair treatment compositions later point of the application described in more detail.

It may also be advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the cationic polymers, further natural and / or synthetic polymers which may be anionic or amphoteric and nonionic.

The anionic polymers are usually anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially. Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a non-ionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® QM ^® commercially available.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as constituents as polymers for increasing the action of the agent according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and COO in the molecule - or -SO ₃ - groups, and those polymers comprising those -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

Preferably usable amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (PII), R ²² -CH = CR ²³ -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ²⁴ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ A ⁽⁾ (PII) in R ²² and R ²³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R, R and R independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

(B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (PNI), R ²⁷ -CH = CR ²⁸ -COOH (PNI) in which R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly made to the content of German Patent Application 39 29 973 reference. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ^{26 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers according to the invention are:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and

Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as for example sold under the trademarks Culminal ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON). shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or one ionic and one amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer are used simultaneously.

The use of the further polymers in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, is preferred according to the invention. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

In addition, it may prove advantageous to add in the compositions according to the invention humectants or penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, lactic acid, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol. Particularly suitable according to the invention are lactic acid and glycerol.

The humectants are in the inventive compositions - based on the total composition - in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 % By weight used. The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing active ingredients is advantageous. These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone. Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription. To combat the hormonal effects on hair follicles, spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids or their physiologically tolerated derivatives, since these substances also serve as "hair structurants", and their use with them in compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as cosmetic hair conditioning agent, is extremely preferred Amino acids or amino acid derivatives which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine , Histidine, β-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L- Dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-AIIyI-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5 Oxoproline (L-pyroglu tamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and / or their derivatives as well as their mixtures can be used. Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids or their derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Compositions characterized in that they as care substance - based on her

Weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to

1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-%

Amino acid (s) / - derivatives, preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or VaNn and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine and / or arginine and / or acetyl tyrosine.

Another group of preferred components in the compositions of the present invention, in the event that they are formulated as a cosmetic hair treatment agent, are the hair care products.

These include the aforementioned vegetable oils, panthenol, hydrogenated jojoba oil,

Biotin and allantoin, but also the plant extracts.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or

Leaves of the plant produce.

According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle,

Witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom,

Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango,

Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow,

Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hauhechel, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow,

Meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred. The extracts are particularly preferred

Green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root,

Horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat,

Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle,

Yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

As extractants for the preparation of said plants extra kte water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and

Propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant as well as in admixture with water, is preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and used as solvent in their recovery

Extracting agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

According to the invention particularly preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 2 wt .-%

Active substance (= plant extract), contained.

In addition to all of the aforementioned ingredients, a silicone may be used as a particularly preferred component of all the compositions of the invention. Silicones can also fulfill various functions in the compositions according to the invention. Thus, on the one hand, they can serve as structurant, but also as skin and hair care agents - their use in the compositions according to the invention is thus also particularly preferred. Silicones are used in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, used.

Particular preference is given to agents according to the invention which comprise at least one silicone selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

The anti-dandruff preparations according to the invention are preferably a shampoo, a shower bath, a shower gel, a conditioner, a hair conditioner, a hair tonic, a hair gel, a hairspray, a foam, a setting agent, a shaving solution or a deodorant. In a particularly preferred embodiment, it is a shampoo.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the invention

Drug combination can be increased by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 60 moles ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially of glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products with methyl glucoside fatty acid ester-, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose being preferred as the sugar component,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® ^® PGPH)

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic,

Karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g.

Methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and

Derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants.

The compositions according to the invention are not subject to any restrictions with regard to their formulation form and can be formulated as emulsion, cream, solution, gel or mousse. A second subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the anti-dandruff agent according to the invention for the prophylaxis, reduction, elimination and / or alleviation of dandruff on hairy body regions.

A third object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the anti-dandruff agent according to the invention for reducing the relapse of dandruff on hairy body regions after discontinuation of the agent. A fourth object of the invention is the cosmetic use of a combination of

A) an anionic sulphate and / or sulphonate surfactant,

B) a zinc Pyrithion a particle size <2 microns and

C) a cationic polygalactomannan or a derivative of the cationic polygalactomannan having a cationic charge density of 0.1 to 1.5 meq / g and a molecular weight of 500,000 to 3,000,000. for the preparation of a preparation for the treatment of dander. A fifth object of the invention is a cosmetic method for the prophylaxis, reduction, elimination and / or alleviation of dandruff on hairy body regions, in which an inventive antidandruff agent is applied to the hair or the hairy skin and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting it thereto. Unless stated otherwise, the quantities given in the examples relate to% by weight.

Examples:

Shampoo 1 Shampoo 2

Ingredient Amount [wt%] Amount [wt%]

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO) (AS) 1 1, 00 5.60

Cocamidopropylbetaine (AS) 2.50 4.20

D-panthenol 0.15 0.20

Nicotinic acid amide 0.15 -

Cutina ^® HR ¹ 0.25 0.20

Cetiol ^® HE ² 1 00 0.50

N- ^Hance® 3196 ³ 0.15 0.25

ProSina ^®4 - 0.15

Zinc pyrithione according to the invention 1, 00 1, 00

Sodium benzoate 0.50 0.50

Perfume 0.15 0.15

Antil ^® 141 L ⁵ - 0.07

Arlypon ^® F ^6-0.20

Plantacare® ^® 818UP ^{from 7 to} 2.00

Glucamate DOE 120 ^® ^{8 to} 0.02

Sodium chloride 1, 50 -

NaOH, citric acid, dye qs qs

Water ad 100% ad 100%

INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor OiI; Cognis

INCI name: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; Cognis

INCI name: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides; Hercules

INCI name: Hydrolysed Keratin, Aqua; Croda

INCI name: PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol; Goldschmidt

INCI name: Laureth-2; Cognis

INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Aqua; Cognis

INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate; Noveon

Claims

claims:

1. antidandruff agent containing - based on its total weight -

B) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% zinc pyrithione a particle size <2 microns and

C) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of a cationic polygalactomannan or a derivative of the cationic polygalactomannan with a cationic charge density of 0.1 to 1, 5 meq / g and a molecular weight of 500,000 to 3,000,000.

2. Anti-dandruff agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a pH <6, preferably <5.8 and in particular <5.5.

3. Anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic sulfate and / or sulfonate A) a linear or branched alkyl chain having a chain length of 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18 and in particular from 10 to 16 C Atoms, and a degree of ethoxylation of 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially from 2 to 4.

4. anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least 85%, preferably at least 90% and in particular at least 95% of the zinc pyrithione particles have an average particle size <1, 8 microns, preferably <1, 5 microns, more preferably <1, 3 microns and in particular <1, 0 microns have.

5. Anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic galactomannan or its derivative (C)) has a cationic charge density of 0.2 to 1, 3 meq / g, preferably from 0.3 to 1, 1 meq and in particular from 0.4 to 0.9 meq / g and a molecular weight of from 700,000 to 2,000,000, preferably from 900,000 to 1, 750,000, more preferably from 1, 000,000 to 1,500,000 and in particular from 1, 150,000 to 1, 400,000.

6. Anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further contains at least one further surfactant selected from the group of amphoteric / zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, wherein the ratio of the anionic surfactant A) to the buzzer of Further surfactants in the range of 6: 1 to 1: 2, preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5 and in particular in the range of 4.5: 1 to 1: 1, 25 is.

7. Anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further contains a care complex consisting of panthenol and at least one other Component is selected from the group of other vitamins, vitamin precursors or vitamin derivatives and the protein hydrolysates.

8. Anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further contains at least one "benefit agent", which may be selected anti-dandruff agents other than B), preservatives, UV filters, vegetable, animal, mineral and synthetic oils, thickeners, polymers, humectants, hair styling agents, hair care products, hair restorers and hair loss agents.

9. Anti-dandruff agent according to claim 8, characterized in that the composition contains at least one member selected from vegetable oils, silicones, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, amino acids and / or derivatives thereof, plant extracts, cationic polymers other than C ), cationic surfactants and hair structurants.

10. anti-dandruff agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is present as a shampoo, shower, shower gel, conditioner, hair conditioner, hair tonic, hair gel, hair spray, foam, fortifier, aftershave or deodorant.

11. Cosmetic use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for the prophylaxis, reduction, elimination and / or alleviation of dandruff on hairy body regions.

12. Cosmetic use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for reducing the relapse of dandruff on hairy Körperreg ions after discontinuation of the agent.

13. Cosmetic use of a combination of

A) an anionic sulphate and / or sulphonate surfactant,

D) a zinc Pyrithion a particle size <2μm and

E) a cationic polygalactomannan or a derivative of the cationic polygalactomannan having a cationic charge density of 0.1 to 1.5 meq / g and a molecular weight of 500,000 to 3,000,000. for the preparation of a preparation for the treatment of dander.

14. A cosmetic method for the prophylaxis, reduction, elimination and / or alleviation of dandruff on hairy body regions, wherein a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 is applied to the hair or the hairy skin and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time ,