DE102009028443A1 - Cosmetic hair cleaning agent, useful to improve wet and dry hair, and as e.g. liquid soaps and shampoos, comprises mild surfactant from anionic and amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactant, and seed oil of Pentaclethra macroloba plant - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic hair cleaning agent (I) comprises: (a) 1-25 wt.% of mild surfactant from at least one anionic and amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactant; and (b) 0.001-7.5 wt.% of seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba.

Description

The The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair cleanser, containing a mild surfactant mixture and the seed oil of Plant Pentaclethra macroloba, as well as the use of this hair cleanser for hair conditioning, in particular for improving wet and dry combability as well as the reduction of hair breakage and / or split ends.

Cleaning supplies, For example, cosmetic cleansers for the skin and hair like liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, Bubble baths, shower gels and wash gels do not have to only have a good cleaning power, but should still good for the skin and mucous membranes be tolerated and also with frequent use do not cause excessive defatting or skin dryness.

Out This reason is tried as many as possible for many years to incorporate many hair and skin conditioners into the cleansers - on the one hand, to meet the requirements for simultaneous cleaning and Care and on the other hand, so that the consumer by applying only one product that meets these two requirements met, both the advantage of time savings, as well as the Advantage of the cost savings can enjoy (there optimally a care step with a skin or hair aftertreatment superfluous shall be).

The Incorporation of skin and hair conditioners in a surfactant Cleaning formulation represents the manufacturers of such compositions but up to the present day again and again great difficulties especially mineral, natural or synthetic Grease, wax and oil components that have been proven nourishing and conditioning effect on the skin and hair can not be left by simply interfering with one Incorporate surfactant base.

So For example, in the past few years you have been forced to do so Pearlescing agents, special polymers and / or salts in cosmetic To incorporate detergent so that, for example, silicones storage stable could suspend in the formulations.

In Most recently, the trend is now back to natural cosmetic products based on milder (as possible biodegradable) surfactants, the natural conditioners vegetable or animal origin. In such Products should be both the number of not necessarily necessary active ingredients, the cause irritation on the skin or scalp, be minimized, as well as with the necessary components strictly Skin compatibility, mildness and biodegradability be respected.

The Seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba is known as a mild, natural hair conditioner that works in its effect on the quaternary ammonium compounds (cationic Surfactants) is comparable. Like the cationic surfactants that became Pentaclethra macroloba seed oil usually used in classic lipid-rich leave-on hair treatment products we hair treatments, Hair conditioners, treatments and / or pomades used. The reason this is because the seed oil in aqueous Formulations insoluble, and therefore difficult to stabilize is.

aim It has therefore been a time and cost effective to develop cleansing and nourishing hair cleanser that the seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba contains. The hair treatment with these funds should primarily become one thorough cleaning, but also to a significant Care of the hair during the cleaning process contribute. In particular, should be dry, brittle and damaged Hair in their structure will be stabilized again, so they visibly less brittle and dull appear.

One Another goal was the seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba in the aqueous surfactant base over a stable solubility over a long period of time.

• a) 1 bis 25 Gew.-% einer milden Tensidbasis aus mindestens einem anionischen und mindestens einem amphoteren/zwitterionischen und
• b) 0,001 bis 7,5 Gew.-% das Samenöl der Pflanze Pentaclethra macroloba

enthalten.These goals have been met to a high degree by combining the seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba with a special, mild surfactant base. The present invention therefore relates to cosmetic cleaners which

• a) 1 to 25 wt .-% of a mild surfactant base of at least one anionic and at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic and
• b) 0.001 to 7.5% by weight of the seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba

contain.

The regular hair cleansing with the inventive mild cleansers resulted in a significantly improved Hair condition - the hair felt after the Treatment smoother and were full of resilience and shine. The combability of wet and dry hair was improved which also led to significantly less hair breakage and split ends. Overall, it was found that the inventive Hair cleansing preparations in the aforesaid care properties Hair conditioning shampoos based on silicones and / or cationic Based polymers are superior.

The Inventive surfactant base is selected from mild anionic and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (TI),
  
  in der R²⁹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R³⁰ für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR²⁹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³¹R³²R³³R³⁴, mit R³¹ bis R³⁴ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (TII) R35CO(AlkO)nSO3M (TII) in der R³⁵CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (TIII),
  
  in der R³⁶CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (TIII) eingesetzt, in der R³⁶CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (TI),
  
  in the R ^{29 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{30 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ²⁹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³¹ R ³² R ³³ R ³⁴ , where R ³¹ to R ³⁴ independently of one another represent a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (TII) R 35 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (TII) in the R ³⁵ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (TIII),
  
  in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (TIII) are used, in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

preferred anionic surfactants are due to their mild action to the scalp Alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, ether carboxylic acids, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethylester each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably with 1 to 4 oxyethyl groups in the molecule.

These preferred anionic surfactants can in the inventive Preparations are used both individually, as well as a mixture.

The The anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the inventive Detergents - based on their total weight - in in an amount of 0.05 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 20 wt .-% and in particular in an amount from 0.5 to 15 wt .-% used.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as alkylbetaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant according to the invention is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

The the ampholytic / zwitterionic surfactant (s) will (become) in the cleaning agents according to the invention - related on their weight - in a total amount of 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 10% by weight and in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 7.5% by weight used.

Especially preferred mixtures of anionic and amphotytic / zwitterionic Surfactants each contain at least one member of the following Group of anionic and amphotytic / zwitterionic surfactants: Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl glutamates or sulfosuccinates and alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, Alkylamphoacetates and propionates.

Especially preferred is a mixture of alkyl ether sulfates and Alkylamidoalkylbetainen. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention contain the cleaning agents to increase skin milding properties and to improve the foam quality in addition at least one nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic Emulsifier in an amount that the ratio of anionic (s) Surfactant (s): amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant (s): nonionic (s) Surfactant (s) (8-15) :( 2-4): 1.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel R³⁷CO-(OCH₂CHR³⁸)_wOR³⁹, (TIV), in der R³⁷CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R³⁸ für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³⁹ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beipielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide.

According to the invention suitable nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and ver branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ³⁷ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ³⁸ ) _w OR ³⁹ , (TIV), in which R ³⁷ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{38 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{39 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,
• - amine oxides,
• Hydroxymix ethers, as described, for example, in US Pat DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• - fatty acid N-alkylglucamides.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

A another group particularly suitable according to the invention, nonionic surfactants are the alkylpofyglucosides.

They correspond to the formula (I) R ¹ O- [G] _p (I) in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p must always be an integer in a given compound, and especially the If p = 1 to 6 can be assumed, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having a mean degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.7 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1-3) which are obtained as a preliminary stream in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol can be contaminated as well as Alkyloligoglucoside based on technical C _9/11 -Oxoalkohole (DP = 1-3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as they can be obtained as described above. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12-14 cocoalcohol having a DP of 1-3, as are commercially available, for example, under the INCI name "Coco-Glucoside".

By the surfactant mixture according to the invention becomes a creamy, Generates rich foam that feels soft and gives the consumer the feeling of care.

Especially preferred is a surfactant mixture of alkyl ether sulfates, Alkylamidoalkylbetainen and alkyl polyglucosides in the above ratio.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention are the hair cleansers of the invention free of cationic surfactants, since these are compatible with the surfactant base interact negatively. In addition, a should so-called "built-up effect" of the hair avoided which is why the use of cationic surfactants is also omitted becomes.

The Seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba b) is added to the hair cleansing compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in quantities of 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% used.

Especially suitable as care component b) in the inventive This is under the name "Beracare BBA" of the company Beraca available Pentaclethra macroloba seed oil. It is rich in behenic acid and has a special effect on the combability, the shine and the softness of the hair positive.

The Stabilization of the seed oil in the surfactant formulations was also an object of the present invention. This goal was also achieved by the hair cleansers - related on their total weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably From 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight of a thickener, selected from natural thickeners polysaccharide-based and / or synthetic thickening agents from the group of acrylate copolymers.

The synthetic thickener according to the invention is preferably a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and C _1-4 -alkyl acrylate, the methacrylic acid preferably in proportions of from 20 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 75% by weight, in particular from 35 to 60 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the copolymer, is present.

The Alkylarcylate is preferably in proportions of 15 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably from 25 to 75% by weight, in particular from 40 to 65 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the copolymer. It is preferably methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate or butyl acrylate and in particular ethyl acrylate.

The Copolymer is with at least one conventional crosslinking agent completely or partially networked. Suitable crosslinking agents are those which are polyunsaturated compounds and especially multiply unsaturated ethylenically unsaturated compounds represent. These compounds are in particular polyalkylene ethers of sucrose or polyols, diallyl phthalates, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth) acrylate, Ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, Diallyl natoate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (emth) acrylate, Derivatives of castor oil or polyols made from unsaturated Carboxylic acids are produced. As crosslinking agents can also unsaturated monomeric compounds are used, which have a reactive group with an unsaturated group Bond can react to form a crosslinked copolymer.

Of the Content of the crosslinking agent is generally in the range of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.03 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the copolymer.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, such a copolymer is in the form of a dispersion in water. The average particle size of the copolymer in the dispersion is 10 to 500, preferably 20 to 200 and in particular 50 to 150 nm. Such, according to the invention particularly suitable polymer dispersion is the crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer in a 30% aqueous dispersion, the commercially available under the name "Carbopol Aqua SF 1" from Noveon. Preferred thickening substances based on a polysaccharide are selected from cellulose especially hydroxyalkylcelluloses, in particular hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, furthermore selected from xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucans, polygalactomannans, in particular guar gums and locust bean gum , in particular guar gum and locust bean gum itself and the nonionic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives and locust bean gum derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropylmethyl guar, hydroxyethyl guar and carboxymethyl guar, furthermore selected from pectins, linseed gums, agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, Gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan, propylene glycol alginate, alginic acids and their salts (alginates), especially sodium alginates, potassium alginates and calcium alginates, further - though less preferred selected from physically (z. B. by Vorverkleisterung) and / or chemically modified Staerken, in particular hydroxypropylated starch phosphates and Octenylstaerkesuccinaten and their aluminum, calcium or sodium salts. Dehydroxanthan gum is exceptionally preferred. A particularly preferred hair cleansing composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one thickening substance based on a polysaccharide selected from xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, carrageenan, guar gum, alginates, in particular sodium alginates, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed Gums and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof.

The natural and synthetic thickener can in the hair cleansing compositions according to the invention both individually as well as together (in the aforementioned quantities) be used.

in der R¹⁷ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R¹⁸, R¹⁹ und R²⁰ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (III) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹⁷ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R¹⁸, R¹⁹ und R²⁰ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

To aid hair conditioning, the hair cleansing compositions of the present invention additionally contain at least one further hair care ingredient selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates and / or vitamins and / or cationic polymers. By cationic polymers suitable according to the invention are meant polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (VI),

where R ^{17 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ^{20 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹⁷ is a methyl group
• - R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ²⁰ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride. A suitable homopolymer is the, if desired cross-linked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, other components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mi neral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and tridecylpolyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – hydrophob modifizierte Cellulosederivate, beispielsweise die unter dem Handelsnamen SoftCat^® vertriebenen kationischen Polymere,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol, sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen
• – Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium 67, Polyquaternium 74 und Polyquaternium 89 bekannten Polymere.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (VI) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC. Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• - hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - Quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as those under the names
• Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium 67, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names. Chitosans are deacetylated chitins, which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights).

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is at least in hair cleaners as a cationic polymer a polymer from the group of cationic guar derivatives, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium 74 and / or Polyquaternium 89 included.

The or the cationic polymer (s) is (are) in the invention Detergents - based on the total composition - in Contained amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Amounts of 0.2 to 3, in particular from 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

According to the invention suitable Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) to be obtained.

According to the invention Protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention are protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Usable according to the invention are also cationized protein hydrolysates, being the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the Plant, for example, from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans or almonds, marine life forms such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, can come. The cationic the invention Derivatives underlying protein hydrolysates can from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis can be obtained. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons all the way up to several thousand daltons. Preferred are such cationic protein hydrolysates, their underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, quaternized cationic protein hydrolyzates To understand amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization Protein hydrolysates or amino acids become common using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- -ammoniumhalogeniden (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) carried out. Furthermore, the cationic Protein hydrolysates also be further derivatized. As typical Examples of the cationic according to the invention Protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those under the INCI names known and commercially available products called: cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and plant-based derivatives. The protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably used in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total mean used. Amounts from 0.1 to 5 Wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

Also as advantageous, the combination of the invention has Composition with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives proved.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a vitamin A component According to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration. The vitamin A component is preferably used in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

• • Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• • Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt wird.
• • Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie kationische Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs werden bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• • Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).
• Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure). Die übliche Einsatzmenge von Vitamin C beträgt 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Die Verwendung in Form des Palmitinsäureesters, der Glucoside oder Phosphate kann bevorzugt sein. Die Verwendung in Kombination mit Tocopherolen kann ebenfalls bevorzugt sein.
• • Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol). Tocopherol und seine Derivate, worunter insbesondere die Ester wie das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat fallen, werden erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• • Vitamin F. Unter dem Begriff ”Vitamin F” werden üblicherweise essentielle Fettsäuren, insbesondere Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden.
• • Vitamin H. Als Vitamin H wird die Verbindung (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure bezeichnet, für die sich aber zwischenzeitlich der Trivialname Biotin durchgesetzt hat. Biotin wird bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% eingesetzt.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• • Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• • Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• • Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably used in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• • Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). The usual amount used of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
• • Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• • Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
• • Vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Particularly according to the invention the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors is preferred from the groups A, B, E and H, wherein panthenol, pantolactone and Nicotinamide are particularly preferred.

Further optional active ingredients, which in the inventive Hair cleansers may be included are:

Oil components:

These can be selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components like Petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, Fatty acid esters as well as natural oils of plant and animal origin. She will (will) be in the inventive detergents - related on their total weight - in an amount of 0.005 to 20 Wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-% used.

Under The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures organosilicon compounds.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter:
• a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen;
• b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen;
• c) Thiolgruppen;
• d) Carboxylatgruppen;
• e) hydroxylierten Gruppen;
• f) alkoxylierten Gruppen;
• g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen;
• h) amphoteren Gruppen;
• i) Bisulfitgruppen;
• j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen;
• k) Carboxygruppen;
• l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und
• m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

Particular preference is given to selecting (s) silicone (s) suitable according to the invention as at least one member selected from the group of organosilicon compounds which are formed from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:
• a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;
• b) (per) fluorinated groups;
• c) thiol groups;
• d) carboxylate groups;
• e) hydroxylated groups;
• f) alkoxylated groups;
• g) acyloxyalkyl groups;
• h) amphoteric groups;
• i) bisulfite groups;
• j) hydroxyacylamino groups;
• k) carboxy groups;
• l) sulfonic acid groups; and
• m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

preferred Conditioning silicones have a viscosity of 20,000 to 120,000 mPa · s, most preferably from 40,000 up to 80,000 mPa · s.

Especially Preferably, the conditioning silicone is selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

As natural or synthetic waxes it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C_16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel,
  
  in der R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R1 für einen Acylrest und R2 und R3 für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, obtained in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid _C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula
  
  in which R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum is (m + n + q) 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a plant oil is used as the oil component used oil.

When natural oils come for example amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, Thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, Hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, Jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, Corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, Olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, Rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, Sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, Grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil in question.

Especially Avocado oil according to the invention is preferred, Apricot kernel oil, rose hip kernel oil, jojoba oil, Cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, Shea butter, sunflower oil and grapeseed oil.

Plant extracts:

Under According to the invention are suitable plant extracts Extracts made from all parts of a plant can be.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

According to the invention especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, Witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, Lime blossom, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens prefers.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction Extracting agent or extractant mixture.

Humectant:

additionally It may prove advantageous if in the inventive Detergents Humectants or Penetrationshilfsstoffe and / or swelling agent (M) are included. These excipients provide for a better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help to swell the keratin fiber. These are for example to include urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, Glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Particularly according to the invention suitable is glycerol.

The Humectants are used in the inventive Compositions - based on the total composition - in Amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% used.

emulsifiers:

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospholipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of Zusam co Compositions be increased by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The Emulsifiers are preferred in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent, used.

Other polymers:

It may also be advantageous if the inventive Compositions in addition to the cationic polymers other natural and / or synthetic polymers which anionic or amphoteric charged as well as non-ionic, contain.

at The anionic polymers are usually an anionic polymer, which carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups exhibit. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may be acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. It can the acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, Mono- or triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention. Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A with 1,9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM. Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as constituents as polymers for increasing the action of the agent according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and those polymers summarized containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (PII), R22-CH=CR23-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N(+)R24R25R26A(–) (PII)in der R²² und R²³ unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R²⁴, R²⁵ und R²⁶ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (PIII), R27-CH=CR28-COOH (PIII)in denen R²⁷ und R²⁸ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably usable amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (PII), R 22 -CH = CR 23 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 24 R 25 R 26 A (-) (PII) in which R ²² and R ²³ independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and the anion of an organic or inorganic acid is and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (PIII), R 27 -CH = CR 28 -COOH (PIII) in which R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly based on the content of German patent application 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ^{26 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) vertrieben werden.
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.

Suitable nonionic polymers according to the invention are:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

It According to the invention it is also possible that several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or not ionic polymer can be used simultaneously.

Of the Use of the further polymers in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, is preferred according to the invention. Amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, are particularly preferred.

UV filter:

Farther may in a preferred embodiment of the invention In addition, a UV filter (I) can be used. The invention according to are used in terms of their structure and their physical properties no general restrictions. On the contrary, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable. their absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

The For example, UV filters can be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of the or the UV filter is (are) usually in quantities 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent used. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

Of the pH of the detergents according to the invention ideally lies in a skin-friendly range of about 2.5 to 6.5 and especially in a range of 3 to 6.

Next the invention compelling components and the other, above-mentioned preferred components in principle all others, those skilled in such cosmetic Medium known components are used.

• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Pigmente,
• – Konservierungsmittel, wie beispielsweise Natriumbenzoat oder Salicylsäure,
• – Viskositätsregler wie Salze (NaCl).

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example:

• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
• Further substances for adjusting the pH, such as, for example, α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - pigments,
• Preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,
• - Viscosity regulator such as salts (NaCl).

One second object of the invention is use of the invention By means of increasing hair conditioning during the hair cleaning.

One third subject of the invention is the use of the invention Hair cleanser for improving wet and dry combability and for the reduction of hair splitting and / or hair breakage.

one Process for the solubilization and stabilization of lyophilised Royal jelly in a surfactant cleaning formulation, in which the lyophilized royal jelly first in a mixture of water / betaine dissolved, and then the surfactant mixture as homogeneous solution is added.

• 1 INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Myreth Sulfate (ca. 27% AS), Cognis,
• 2 INCI-Bezeichnung: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (ca. 28% AS), Cognis,
• 3 INCI-Bezeichnung: Cocamidopropylbetaine (ca. 30% AS), Cognis,
• 4 INCI-Bezeichnung: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (ca. 30% AS), Cognis,
• 5 INCI-Bezeichnung: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua; ca. 50% AS; Cognis
• 6 INCI-Bezeichnung: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Cognis,
• 7 INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cognis,
• 8 INCI-Bezeichnung: Acrylates Copolymer (ca. 30% AS), Noveon.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to: All statements are by weight unless otherwise stated. Examples raw material 1 2 Texapon ® ¹ K 14 S 50 ^Texapon®2 NSO 40 Dehyton ^®3 K 10 Dehyton ^®4 G 8th Plantacare® ^®5 818 UP 4 Lamesoft PO ^®6 65 2 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 panthenol 0.5 nicotinamide 0.3 ^Gluadin®7 W20 0.5 Pentaclethra macroloba seed oil 1 0.5 Carbopol ^{® 8} Aqua SF 1 3 Xanthan gum 0.7 sodium benzoate 0.5 citric acid 0.5 0.5 Perfume 0.3 NaCl 1 1.3 preservative qs water ad 100 ad 100

• 1 INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate (about 27% AS), Cognis,
• 2 INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (about 28% AS), Cognis,
• 3 INCI name: cocamidopropylbetaine (about 30% AS), Cognis,
• 4 INCI name: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (about 30% AS), Cognis,
• 5 INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua; about 50% AS; Cognis
• 6 INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Cognis,
• 7 INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cognis,
• 8 INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer (about 30% AS), Noveon.

The Cleaning compositions 1 and 2 impart the thus treated Hair has more shine and improved wet and dry combability.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 19736906 [0013]
• - DE 19738866 [0022]
• - DE 19756454 [0063]
• - DE 3929973 A [0084]

Claims (13)

Cosmetic hair cleanser containing - related on his total weight - a) 1 to 25 wt .-% of a mild surfactant base of at least one anionic and at least an amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant and b) 0.001 to 7.5 % By weight of the seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba. Means according to claim 1, characterized in that it - in relation to its total weight - in addition 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.3 to 5 wt .-% of at least one nonionic surfactant c) and / or a nonionic emulsifier d), wherein the ratio the surfactant mixture of anionic (s), zwitterionic / amphoteric (s) and nonionic surfactant (s) (8-15) :( 2-4): 1. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the mild surfactant base a) anionic surfactants selected from the group of Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate, ether carboxylic acids and / or sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10, preferably with 1 to 4 oxyethyl groups, and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants selected from the group of C _8-18 -alkylbetaines, C _8-18 -alkylamido (C _1-4 ) -alkylbetaines and / or C _8-18 -alkylamphomono- or -diacetates contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is free of cationic surfactants. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is the seed oil of the plant Pentaclethra macroloba b) in an amount of 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-%, respectively based on the total weight of the agent. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that - in addition to its total weight 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one thickener e) selected from natural polysaccharide-based thickening agents and / or synthetic thickeners from the group of acrylate copolymers, contains. Means according to claim 6, characterized in that the natural thickener e) is selected xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, carrageenan, guar gum, alginates, in particular sodium alginates, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, Flaxseed gums and agar agar and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the synthetic thickener e) is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and C _1-4 -alkyl acrylate. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises at least one hair care composition from the group of protein hydrolysates and / or vitamins and / or containing cationic polymers. Agent according to claim 9, characterized that there is at least one hair-care ingredient on the panthenol group, Pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, keratin hydrolyzate, wheat protein hydrolyzate, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-89 and cationic guar derivatives. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 2.5 to 6.5 and especially from 3 to 6. Use of an agent according to one of the claims 1 to 11 to increase hair conditioning during the hair cleaning. Use according to claim 12 for improving the Wet and dry combability of hair as well as for reduction of hair splitting and / or hair breakage.