DE102013225846A1 - Cosmetic composition containing a combination of proteolipids and ceramides - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising: (a) at least one ceramide in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) wherein R 1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is - (CH 2) y-CH 3 where y = 0 to 22, Y is -H or -OH, X- is a physiologically acceptable anion, Hy is an oligopeptide radical of keratin hydrolyzate and x represents values from 0 to 22. in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and (c) at least one surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures, which have an excellent cleaning action and lead to improved combability and entanglement as well as improved grip and gloss.

Description

The present invention relates to the technical field of hair cleansing and hair care.

In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one ceramide in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of at least one particular proteolipid in a total amount of from 0.00001 to 10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and at least one surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleaning and / or care of skin and hair.

Finally, the present invention relates to a method for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed after a certain period of time, wherein after the application of the cosmetic composition Improved combability and disentanglement as well as improved grip and shine occur.

Cosmetic compositions in the form of hair treatment agents must have a good cleaning action to reliably remove contaminants from the hair and scalp. Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions, especially the ingredients contained therein, should not cause unwanted deposits on the hair, as this hair properties, such as combability and the handle, are adversely affected.

Since the hair is claimed during the hair cleaning, most hair treatment products in the form of hair cleansers are additionally added care products and care agents with the longest possible effect, in order to avoid excessive stress on the hair. Such care products and conditioners affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, after such treatments, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends.

It has therefore long been customary to add special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, to hair cleansing compositions. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.

There is still a need to provide cosmetic compositions in the form of hair treatment compositions which have a high cleaning and / or care performance and are easy to apply. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions which result in improved hair properties such as combability and hand.

It is an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic compositions which are easy to use and which have a good cleaning and / or care performance. In particular, the combability and entanglement as well as the hair grip and the gloss should be improved after use. Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions which have high stability even over long periods of storage.

It has now surprisingly been found that the addition of a combination of ceramides and special proteolipids in cosmetic compositions, in particular hair cleansing and hair care products, leads to a marked improvement in the combing properties, the feel and the gloss. In particular, a further improvement can be achieved if the ceramides are used in certain weight ratios to the particular proteolipid. In addition, a problem-free incorporation of the combination of ceramides and special proteolipids and thus a cost-effective and simple production of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is possible. Finally, the addition of the combination of ceramides and special proteolipids does not lead to unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high storage stability.

• (a) mindestens ein Ceramid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (I)
  
  worin R¹ für einen geradkettigen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für -(CH₂)_y-CH₃ mit y = 0 bis 22, Y für -H oder -OH, X^– für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion, Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat und x für Werte von 0 bis 22 steht. in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,00001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der (i) anionischen Tenside; (ii) nichtionischen Tenside; (iii) kationischen Tenside; (iv) amphoteren Tenside; sowie deren Mischungen.

The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

• (a) at least one ceramide in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R ^{1 is} a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} - (CH ₂ ) _y -CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22, Y is -H or -OH, X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion, Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate and x represents values of 0 to 22. in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention surprisingly have improved hair conditioning, in particular improved combability and improved feel and gloss, due to the use of the combination of ceramides and specific proteolipids. In addition, the use of the combination of ceramides with special proteolipids does not result in a reduction in the effectiveness of hair care ingredients, so that when using nourishing agents, the conditioning of the hair can be further improved. In addition, the combination of ceramides and special proteolipids can be incorporated into generally customary formulations without significantly influencing the stability, in particular the storage stability, and the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

By combing according to the invention is meant both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.

Furthermore, the tactility of a fiber collective is understood as the handle in the context of the present invention, with the person skilled in the field sensing and evaluating the parameters of fullness and suppleness of the collective.

In addition, the term "amphoteric surfactants" in the context of the present invention means surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts.

In addition, the term "proteolipid" in the context of the present invention means chemical compounds which consist of a combination of a fat with a peptide or a protein. Usually, the proportion of fat remainder is more than half of the molecule. Proteolipids are insoluble in water but soluble in nonpolar solvents such as fats.

Furthermore, the term "oligopeptide" in the context of the present invention means chemical compounds which form acid amide-like linked condensation products of amino acids through peptide bonds. The number of amino acids in the oligopeptides is preferably at least 3 and at most 50 amino acids.

In addition, the term "esterquats" in the context of the present invention means substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.

In addition, in the context of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohols" is understood to mean aliphatic, long-chain, monohydric, primary alcohols which have unbranched hydrocarbon radicals of 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon radicals may be saturated but also monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Finally, the term "fatty acids" in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic monocarboxylic acids with an unbranched carbon chain which have hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon radicals can be either saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.

The indication of the total amount in relation to the components of the cosmetic composition relates in the present case-unless stated otherwise-to the total amount of active substance of the respective component.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ceramide (a) is selected from the group of (i) ceramide I; (ii) ceramide II; (iii) ceramide III; (iv) ceramide IIIB; (v) ceramide IV; (vi) ceramide V; (vii) ceramide VI; and mixtures thereof, in particular ceramide II, ceramide III and ceramide IIIB. Particularly good results with regard to improving the combability, the entangleability, the feel and the gloss of the hair are achieved when ceramide II, ceramide III and ceramide IIIB are used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

According to the invention, the at least one ceramide (a) may be present in a total amount of from 0.0002 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0008 to 0.5% by weight .-%, more preferably from 0.002 to 0.1 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.004 to 0.05 wt .-%, in particular from 0.006 to 0.02 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to be included. The use of the ceramide in the above amounts results in a positive influence on hair properties, such as combability, entanglement, hand and shine. In addition, the use of the abovementioned amounts of ceramide avoids a negative influence on further ingredients, the cleaning and / or care performance and the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

It may be provided in the context of the present invention that in the formula (I) the radical R ^{1 is} selected from - (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₃ with z = 1 to 15, in particular with z = 9, 11 or 13, the radical R ^{2 is} selected from - (CH ₂ ) _y -CH ₃ where y = 0 to 12, preferably with y = 0 to 8, in particular with y = 0 and Y is -OH when x = 1 or Y is -H is when x = 1 to 7, preferably 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3, in particular 1, is. Proteolipids of the formula (I) which fulfill the abovementioned conditions lead, in combination with at least one ceramide, in particular at least one particular ceramide, to a particularly good improvement in the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

worin
X^– ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, und
Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat steht,
enthält.Particularly good results with regard to the cleaning and / or care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore obtained if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ia)

wherein
X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and
Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate,
contains.

worin
X^– ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, und
Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat steht,
enthält.Furthermore, particularly good results with regard to the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are obtained if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ib)

wherein
X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and
Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate,
contains.

worin
X ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–
m für Zahlen von 8 bis 22 steht,
n für die Anzahl der Aminosäuren im Keratinhydrolysat, vorzugsweise für Zahlen von 3 bis 12 steht,
R³ für die Seitenketten der Aminosäuren im Keratinhydrolysat steht, wobei R³ in jeder wiederkehrenden Einheit unterschiedlich sein kann,
enthält.Furthermore, particularly good results with regard to the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are obtained if the cosmetic composition contains at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ic)

wherein
X is selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3-
m stands for numbers from 8 to 22,
n is the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers from 3 to 12,
R ^{3 is} the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R ³ may be different in each repeating unit,
contains.

Preferably m is the number 9 (corresponding to a decyl radical attached to the N atom), 11 (dodecyl radical, lauryl radical), 13 (tetraadecyl radical, myristyl radical), 15 (hexadecyl radical, palmityl radical) and preferably represents 17 (octadecyl radical, stearyl radical). Corresponding compounds are for. B. under the INCI name "Steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin" commercially available. Likewise preferred is the use of compounds of the formula (Ic) in which the long-chain radical at the N atom has been obtained from natural fats via their fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixtures. A preferred example according to the invention is coconut fat, which is rich in lauric acid, so that the commercially available and preferably usable compound with the INCI name "Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin" is rich in compounds of the formula (Ic) in which m is the number 11 stands.

The use of these special proteolipids (b) of the formulas (Ia) and / or (Ib) and / or (Ic) results, in combination with the abovementioned ceramides, a significant improvement in the properties of the hair, such as combability, disentanglement Handle and shine. Moreover, these proteolipids in combination with the abovementioned ceramides can be incorporated into formulations in an excellent manner and thus enable a simple and inexpensive preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Finally, the use of these special proteolipids in combination with the above ceramides does not lead to a reduced storage stability of the cosmetic compositions.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains the at least one proteolipid (b) of the formula (I) in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 6.0% by weight. preferably from 0.005 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 4.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 2, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The use of the at least one specific proteolipid in the abovementioned amounts results in combination with the at least one ceramide, in particular the at least one specific ceramide, in a positive influence on hair properties, such as combability, entanglement, gloss and feel. In addition, the use of the abovementioned amounts of the special proteolipids avoids a negative influence on further ingredients, the cleaning and / or care performance and the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

It can be provided according to the invention that the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one ceramide (a) to the total amount of the at least one proteolipid (b) of 10: 1 to 1: 1000, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 700, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 500, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 250, even more preferably from 1: 2 to 1: 100, in particular from 1: 5 to 1:60. The use of the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special proteolipid (b) in these weight ratios results in an excellent cleaning and / or care performance. In particular, an improvement in the combability, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss of the hair results. In addition, when using these weight ratios no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, so that on the one hand a high storage stability results and on the other hand, the care performance of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be further improved by the use of additional conditioning ingredients.

• (i) linearen und verzweigten Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen;
• (ii) Ethercarbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 1 bis 16 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (iii) Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe;
• (iv) Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe;
• (v) Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe;
• (vi) Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6, bevorzugt 1 bis 4 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (vii) lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen;
• (viii) Alpha-Sulfonfettsäuremethylester von Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen;
• (ix) Alkylsulfate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette, insbesondere Natriumlaurylsulfat;
• (x) Alkylethersulfate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 1 bis 14 Oxyethylgruppen, insbesondere Natriumlaurylethersulfat;
• (xi) sulfatierten Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether;
• (xii) Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 0 bis 10 Oxyethylgruppen; sowie
• (xiii) deren Mischungen.

According to the invention, the anionic surfactant is preferably selected from the group of

• (i) linear and branched carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
• (ii) ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 16 oxyethyl groups;
• (iii) acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
• (iv) acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
• (v) acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
• (vi) sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 4, oxyethyl groups;
• (vii) linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
• (viii) alpha-sulfonic fatty acid methyl esters of carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
• (ix) alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, especially sodium lauryl sulfate;
• (x) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups, especially sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
• (xi) sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers;
• (xii) alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 10 oxyethyl groups; such as
• (xiii) their mixtures.

A particularly high cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is achieved if the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (i) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups, in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate; (ii) alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, especially sodium lauryl sulfate; and (iii) mixtures thereof. The use of the abovementioned anionic surfactants in combination with at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special proteolipid (b) results in an outstanding cleaning performance. Furthermore, when these surfactants are used in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific proteolipid (b), there are no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high care performance and a high storage stability.

It may be preferred according to the invention, the anionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05 to 45 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably from 1.0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to use. When using the abovementioned amounts of the anionic surfactant, a particularly high foaming power and thus a particularly high cleaning performance is ensured.

• (i) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, an Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatome in der Alkylgruppe;
• (ii) mit einem Methyl- oder C₂- bis C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, an Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• (iii) C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• (iv) Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl;
• (v) Polyolcarbonsäureester;
• (vi) alkoxilierte Triglyceride;
• (vii) alkoxilierte Carbonsäurealkylester mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen in dem Acylrest, 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatome in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 14 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (viii) Aminoxide;
• (ix) Sorbitancarbonsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitancarbonsäureester;
• (x) Zuckercarbonsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckercarbonsäureester;
• (xi) Carbonsäure-N-alkylglucamide;
• (xii) Alkylpolyglucoside der Formel R⁴O-[G]_p, in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht; sowie
• (xiii) deren Mischungen.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention if the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group of

• (i) addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to carboxylic acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (Ii) with a methyl or C ₂ - to C ₆ alkyl end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (iii) C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• (iv) addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil;
• (v) polyol carboxylic acid ester;
• (vi) alkoxylated triglycerides;
• (vii) alkoxylated carboxylic acid alkyl esters having 6 to 22 carbon atoms in the acyl group, 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups;
• (viii) amine oxides;
• (ix) sorbitan carboxylic acid ester and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan carboxylic acid ester;
• (x) sugar carboxylic acid ester and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar carboxylic acid ester;
• (xi) carboxylic acid N-alkylglucamides;
• (xii) alkyl polyglucosides of the formula R ⁴ O- [G] _p in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10 stands; such as
• (xiii) their mixtures.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a particularly gentle cleaning performance when the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) addition products of 5 to 60 mol, in particular 20 to 40 mol, ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil; (ii) polyethoxylated carboxylic acid esters having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 50; (iii) ethoxylated glyceryl carboxylic acid ester having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 20, especially PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; (iv) alkyl oligoglucosides having 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, especially C _8-10 alkyl polyglycosides; and (v) their mixtures. The use of the abovementioned nonionic surfactants in combination with at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special proteolipid (b) leads to an outstanding cleaning performance. Furthermore, when these surfactants are used in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one specific proteolipid (b), there are no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high care performance and a high storage stability.

According to the invention, the nonionic surfactant may be present in a total amount of from 0.05 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. When using the abovementioned amounts of nonionic surfactant, a particularly gentle cleaning performance is ensured.

• (i) Esterquats;
• (ii) quaternären Imidazoline der Formel II,
  
  worin die Reste R⁵ und R⁶, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht;
• (iii) quaternärer Ammoniumverbindungen der Formel (III)
  
  worin die Reste R⁷, R⁸, R⁹ und R¹⁰, für jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für Wasserstoff, eine Methylgruppe, eine Phenylgruppe, eine Benzylgruppe, für einen gesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppen substituiert sein kann, stehen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, insbesondere Cetrimoniumchlorid und/oder Behentrimoniumchlorid; sowie
• (iv) deren Mischungen.

According to a further embodiment of the present invention, the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group of

• (i) esterquats;
• (ii) quaternary imidazolines of the formula II,
  
  wherein R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion;
• (iii) quaternary ammonium compounds of the formula (III)
  
  wherein R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, in particular cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride; such as
• (iv) their mixtures.

• (i) Esterquats, insbesondere der Formel (IV)
  
  worin die Reste R¹¹ und R¹⁴, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für einen Acylrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise 10 bis 26, bevorzugt 12 bis 20, weiter bevorzugt 14 bis 18, stehen, die Reste R¹² und R¹³, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, stehen, und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht;
• (iii) quaternärer Ammoniumverbindungen der Formel (III)
  
  worin die Reste R⁷, R⁸, R⁹, für jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für Wasserstoff, eine Methylgruppe, stehen, der Rest R¹⁰ für einen gesättigten und unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise 10 bis 20, bevorzugt 12, 14, 16 oder 18, insbesondere 16 oder 18 Kohlenstoffatomen welcher gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppen substituiert sein kann, steht, und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht; sowie
• (iii) deren Mischungen. Der Einsatz der vorstehend genannten kationischen Tenside führt in Kombination mit mindestens einem Ceramid (a) und dem mindestens einen speziellen Proteolipids (b) zu einer hervorragenden Reinigungs- und Pflegeleistung. Insbesondere durch den Zusatz des kationischen Tensids zu den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen kann die Verbesserung der Haareigenschaften, insbesondere die Kämmbarkeit, die Entwirrbarkeit, der Griff und der Glanz, weitergehend optimiert werden. Weiterhin resultieren bei Verwendung dieser Tenside in Kombination mit dem mindestens einen Ceramid (a) und dem mindestens einen speziellen Protoelipids (b) keine ungünstigen Wechselwirkungen mit weiteren Inhaltsstoffen, so dass die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen eine hohe Pflegeleistung sowie eine hohe Lagerstabilität aufweisen.

The conditioning effect of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be further increased if the cationic surfactant is selected from the group of

• (i) Esterquats, in particular of the formula (IV)
  
  wherein the radicals R ¹¹ and R ¹⁴ , each independently of one another, are an acyl radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26, preferably 12 to 20, more preferably 14 to 18, the radicals R ¹² and R ¹³ , each independently each other, a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion;
• (iii) quaternary ammonium compounds of the formula (III)
  
  wherein the radicals R ⁷ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ , are each independently of one another, hydrogen, a methyl group, the radical R ^{10 is} a saturated and unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20, preferred 12, 14, 16 or 18, in particular 16 or 18 carbon atoms which may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion; such as
• (iii) their mixtures. The use of the abovementioned cationic surfactants in combination with at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special proteolipid (b) results in excellent cleaning and care performance. In particular, by the addition of the cationic surfactant to the cosmetic compositions of the invention, the improvement of the hair properties, in particular the combing, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss, can be further optimized. Furthermore, when these surfactants are used in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special protoelipid (b), no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients result, so that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high care performance and a high storage stability.

Usable according to the invention are quaternary ammonium compounds, for example ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyl commercially represent.

According to the invention, it may be preferred if the cationic surfactant is used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 6.0% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.08 to 4.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used. When using the abovementioned amounts of the cationic surfactant, a particularly good cleaning performance in combination with a particularly good conditioning of the hair is ensured.

• (i) N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, insbesondere Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat;
• (ii) N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, insbesondere Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat;
• (iii) 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe;
• (iv) Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat;
• (v) N-Alkylglycine;
• (vi) N-Alkylpropionsäuren;
• (vii) N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren;
• (viii) N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren;
• (ix) N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine;
• (x) N-Alkyltaurine;
• (xi) N-Alkylsarcosine;
• (xii) 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• (xiii) Alkylbetaine mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette;
• (xiv) Alkylamidoalkylbetaine mit jeweils 4 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette;
• (xv) Aminopropionate;
• (xvi) Aminoglycinate;
• (xvii) Imidazoliniumbetaine; sowie
• (xviii) deren Mischungen.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group of

• (i) N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, especially cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate;
• (ii) N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, especially cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate;
• (iii) 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group;
• (iv) cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate;
• (v) N-alkylglycines;
• (vi) N-alkylpropionic acids;
• (vii) N-alkylaminobutyric acids;
• (viii) N-alkyliminodipropionic acids;
• (ix) N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines;
• (x) N-alkyl taurines;
• (xi) N-alkyl sarcosines;
• (xii) 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (xiii) alkylbetaines having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain;
• (xiv) alkylamidoalkylbetaines each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain;
• (xv) aminopropionates;
• (xvi) aminoglycinates;
• (xvii) imidazolinium betaines; such as
• (xviii) their mixtures.

Particularly good results with regard to the cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are obtained when the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group of (i) alkylamphoacetates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, in particular disodium cocodiamphoacetate; (ii) N-alkylaminopropionates, especially N-cocoalkylaminopropionate; (iii) cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate; (iv) N-alkyl sarcosines, especially C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine; (v) alkylbetaines; (vi) alkylamido betaines; and (iv) their mixtures. The use of the abovementioned amphoteric surfactants in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special proteolipid (b) also leads to an improved cleaning performance. Furthermore, when these surfactants are used in combination with the at least one ceramide (a) and the at least one special proteolipid (b) no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high cleaning and / or care performance and storage stability.

For the purposes of the present invention, it may be preferred for the amphoteric surfactant to be present in a total amount of from 0.2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 15% by weight. %, more preferably from 1.5 to 12 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used. When using the abovementioned amounts of the amphoteric surfactant, a particularly good cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is ensured.

A particularly high cleaning performance and a particularly high foaming power is obtained according to the invention if the at least one surfactant (c) is used in a total amount of from 0.2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0 , 8 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably from 1.0 to 35 wt .-%, even more preferably from 3.0 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is included.

It may be provided according to the invention that the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 500 to 1: 5,000, preferably from 1: 700 to 1: 4,500, preferably from 1: 900 to 1: 4,000, more preferably from 1: 1,000 to 1: 3,500, even more preferably from 1: 1,250 to 1: 3,000, in particular from 1: 1,500 to 1: 2,300. When using these weight ratios, on the one hand, a good cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention and, on the other hand, a particularly good conditioning of the hair, in particular an improvement in combability, disentanglement, the handle and the gloss achieved.

Furthermore, it can also be provided that the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 5 to 1: 400, preferably 1:10 to 1: 350, preferably 1:15 to 1: 300, more preferably from 1:20 to 1: 250, even more preferably from 1:25 to 1: 200, in particular from 1:30 to 1: 180.

Furthermore, in the context of the present invention, it is also possible for a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) to be from 1: 1: 500 to 1: 200: 4,500, preferably from 1 : 2: 700 to 1: 150: 4,000, preferably from 1: 3: 900 to 1: 100: 3,500, more preferably from 1: 4: 1,000 to 1:90: 3,000, even more preferably from 1: 5: 1,200 to 1: 80: 2,500, especially from 1: 7: 1,500 to 1: 70: 2,300. The use of these weight ratios results firstly in an excellent cleaning performance and secondly in an improvement in the combability, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss. Furthermore, a negative mutual influence of the ingredients is avoided when using the above-mentioned weight ratios, so that a high storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention results.

• (a) Ceramid II und/oder Ceramid III und/oder Ceramid IIIB in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 bis 0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (Ia)
  
  worin X^– ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, und Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat steht, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus Natriumlaurylethersulfat und/oder Dinatriumkokoamphodiacetat und/oder PEG-7 Glycerylcocoat in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird.Particularly good results in terms of combability, entanglement, grip and gloss are obtained when a cosmetic composition containing:

• (a) ceramide II and / or ceramide III and / or ceramide IIIB in a total amount of 0.005 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ia)
  
  wherein X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from sodium lauryl ether sulfate and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

• (a) Ceramid II und/oder Ceramid III und/oder Ceramid IIIB in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 bis 0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (Ia)
  
  worin X^– ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, und Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat steht, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus C_8-10-Alkylpolyglycoside und/oder Dinatriumkokoamphodiacetat in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird.Furthermore, particularly good results are also obtained if a cosmetic composition containing:

• (a) ceramide II and / or ceramide III and / or ceramide IIIB in a total amount of 0.005 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ia)
  
  wherein X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from C _8-10 alkyl polyglycosides and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

• (a) Ceramid II und/oder Ceramid III und/oder Ceramid IIIB in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 bis 0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (Ib)
  
  worin X^– ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, und Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat steht, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus Natriumlaurylethersulfat und/oder Dinatriumkokoamphodiacetat und/oder PEG-7 Glycerylcocoat in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird.In addition, particularly good results are also obtained when a cosmetic composition containing:

• (a) ceramide II and / or ceramide III and / or ceramide IIIB in a total amount of 0.005 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ib)
  
  wherein X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from sodium lauryl ether sulfate and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

• (a) Ceramid II und/oder Ceramid III und/oder Ceramid IIIB in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 bis 0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (Ia)
  
  worin X^– ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, und Hy für einen Oligopeptidrest aus Keratinhydrolysat steht, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus C_8-10-Alkylpolyglycoside und/oder Dinatriumkokoamphodiacetat in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird.In addition, particularly good results are obtained when a cosmetic composition containing:

• (a) ceramide II and / or ceramide III and / or ceramide IIIB in a total amount of 0.005 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ia)
  
  wherein X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from C _8-10 alkyl polyglycosides and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

• (a) Ceramid II und/oder Ceramid III und/oder Ceramid IIIB in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 bis 0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (Ic)
  
  worin X ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3– m für Zahlen von 8 bis 22 steht, n für die Anzahl der Aminosäuren im Keratinhydrolysat, vorzugsweise für Zahlen von 3 bis 12 steht, R³ für die Seitenketten der Aminosäuren im Keratinhydrolysat steht, wobei R³ in jeder wiederkehrenden Einheit unterschiedlich sein kann, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus Natriumlaurylethersulfat und/oder Dinatriumkokoamphodiacetat und/oder PEG-7 Glycerylcocoat in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird.Furthermore, particularly good results are obtained in the context of the present invention if a cosmetic composition comprising:

• (a) ceramide II and / or ceramide III and / or ceramide IIIB in a total amount of 0.005 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ic)
  
  wherein X is selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- m for numbers from 8 to 22, n is the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers from 3 to 12, R ^{3 represents} the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, wherein R ³ in each repeating unit may be different, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from sodium lauryl ether sulfate and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

• (a) Ceramid II und/oder Ceramid III und/oder Ceramid IIIB in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 bis 0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein Proteolipid der Formel (Ic)
  
  worin X ausgewählt ist aus Cl^–, Br^–, ½SO₄ ^2–, 1/3PO₄ ^3–, m für Zahlen von 8 bis 22 steht, n für die Anzahl der Aminosäuren im Keratinhydrolysat, vorzugsweise für Zahlen von 3 bis 12 steht, R³ für die Seitenketten der Aminosäuren im Keratinhydrolysat steht, wobei R³ in jeder wiederkehrenden Einheit unterschiedlich sein kann, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein Tensid, ausgewählt aus C_8-10-Alkylpolyglycoside und/oder Dinatriumkokoamphodiacetat in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird.Finally, particularly good results are obtained in the context of the present invention if a cosmetic composition comprising:

• (a) ceramide II and / or ceramide III and / or ceramide IIIB in a total amount of 0.005 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ic)
  
  wherein X is selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , m is numbers from 8 to 22, n is the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably numbers from 3 to 12, R ^{3 represents} the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, wherein R ³ in each repeating unit may be different, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one surfactant selected from C _8-10 alkyl polyglycosides and / or disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

The abovementioned six particularly preferred embodiments which contain a combination of at least one specific ceramide (a), at least one extremely special proteolipid (b) and specific surfactants (c) in specific amounts and weight ratios lead to an excellent cleaning and / or care performance. In particular, the combability, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss are significantly improved. Furthermore, these combinations do not lead to a reduction in the storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. In addition, these special combinations also have no adverse interactions with other ingredients and / or care agents, so that the nourishing effect can be further improved by the addition of other conditioning ingredients.

In addition to the aforementioned constituents, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain a number of other active ingredients and ingredients. Preference is given to adding further active ingredients to the cosmetic compositions which have additional cosmetic care properties in order to support the conditioning of the hair during the cleaning process.

In order to further improve the care properties of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, it may therefore be provided that the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one hair and / or skin conditioning agent, wherein the active ingredient is selected from the group of oil components, cationic polymers, plant extracts and / or humectants.

Oil components suitable according to the invention may be selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, alcohols, fatty acid esters, natural oils of plant and animal origin and mixtures thereof, and are present in a total amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.

The term "silicones" is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean various structures of organosilicon compounds which are present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition may be included.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, welche flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder zyklisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, welche in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, welche eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Mischungen.

The silicones may preferably be selected from at least one member of the group of organosilicon compounds which is formed from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) polysiloxane grafted silicone polymers grafted onto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone on the chain as well as on the backbone at least one organic macromer which does not contain silicone, if appropriate, was grafted onto at least one of its ends, for example the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the conditioning agent is a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa · s, preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa · s.

The conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids having C ₆ -C ₃₀ -carbon atoms, it usually being possible to start from a recovery from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

Fatty alcohols suitable according to the invention are present in the cosmetic compositions in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.

As natural or synthetic waxes according to the invention, solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax and microwaxes of PE or PP can be used. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen werden im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen verstanden. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, welche z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, welche z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C₁₆-₁₈-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester, wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester, wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, insbesondere Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride weisen vorzugsweise die Formel (II) auf
  
  in welcher R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R⁴ für einen Acylrest und R⁵ und R⁶ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether. n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and Di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. For the purposes of the present invention, ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit ^® IPM), isononanoic acid C ₁₆ - ₁₈ alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol -caprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl ( Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), -
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• Fatty acid partial glycerides, in particular monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably have the formula (II)
  
  in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ , each independently of one another, are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these Groups for an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{4 is} an acyl radical and R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil component used is ester oils, in particular esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

According to the invention, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rose hip kernel oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, shea butter, sunflower oil and grapeseed oil are particularly preferred.

These oil components are in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.

Cationic polymers can likewise be used according to the invention as conditioning components. Under suitable cationic polymers according to the invention are polymers to understand which have "temporarily cationic" or "permanently cationic" groups in the main and / or side chain. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.

Preferred cationic groups contain quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

in welcher R⁷ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R⁸, R⁹ und R¹⁰, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, o = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, p eine natürliche Zahl und X- ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im Wesentlichen aus den in Formel (III) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für welche mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R⁷ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R⁸, R⁹ und R¹⁰ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – o hat den Wert 2.

Als physiologisch verträgliches Gegenionen X- kommen beispielsweise Halogenidionen, Sulfationen, Phosphationen, Methosulfationen sowie organische Ionen wie Lactat-, Citrat-, Tartrat- und Acetationen in Betracht. Bevorzugt sind Halogenidionen, insbesondere Chlorid.Homopolymers of the general formula (III),

in which R ⁷ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ⁸ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ , each independently of one another, are selected from C _1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, o = 1, 2, 3 or 4, p is a natural number and X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ⁷ is a methyl group
• - R ⁸ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ are methyl groups
• - o has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

According to the invention suitable homopolymers or copolymers, which are derived from the formula (III), for example, under the trade names Salcare ^® SC 95, Salcare ^® SC 96 and Salcare ^® SC 92 available commercially.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^® 400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – hydrophob modifizierte Cellulosederivate, beispielsweise die unter dem Handelsnamen SoftCat^® vertriebenen kationischen Polymere,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxylaminomodifiziertes Silikon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,

sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen

• – Polyquaternium-2,
• – Polyquaternium-17,
• – Polyquaternium-8 und
• – Polyquaternium-27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• - hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• Polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, such as the commercially available available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamine modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate Copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

• - Polyquaternium-2,
• - Polyquaternium-17,
• - Polyquaternium-8 and
• Polyquaternium-27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are available commercially, for example under the trade names. Chitosans are deacetylated chitins, which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights).

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention for increasing skin conditioning comprise at least one cationic polymer which is selected from the group of cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic guar derivatives and / or polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550), polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium-10 and / or Polyquaternium-67 (SOFTCAT ^® polymers).

The cationic polymer (s) is (are) contained in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Total amounts of 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are particularly preferred.

The plant extracts suitable according to the invention are extracts which can be prepared from all parts of a plant.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, white tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens preferred.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight. Active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

In addition, it may prove advantageous to add moisturizing agents or penetration aids and / or swelling agents to the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and Triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols, such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. Particularly suitable according to the invention is glycerol.

The humectants are in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are suitable as cosmetic compositions for the cleansing and care of the hair. The cosmetic compositions may be in the form of hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof. Here, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be provided both as leave-on, ie as products remaining on the hair until the next hair wash, and as rinse-off, ie a few seconds to a few hours after application again rinsed products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention have excellent foaming properties, a high cleaning and / or care performance and a high storage stability. In addition, the combination of ceramides, special proteolipids, the at least one leads to an improvement of hair properties, such as combability, entanglement, feel and shine. In addition, the use of this combination does not result in an unfavorable interaction with other ingredients, so that no deterioration in storage stability or effect of these other ingredients occurs.

In addition to the abovementioned compelling components according to the invention and the optional but preferred further components, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain further substances which condition the hair or improve the application properties of the compositions.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions for stabilization may contain an inorganic thickener. For the purposes of the present invention, phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) can be used as inorganic thickeners. Particularly stable foams having excellent foaming properties are obtained when magnesium aluminum silicates from the group of bentonites, in particular smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may if appropriate also be modified, are used as the inorganic thickener. In addition, it is also possible to use synthetic sheet silicates, such as, for example, the magnesium sheet silicate marketed by the company Süd Chemie under the trade name Optigel.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospholipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze,
• – Monoester und/oder Gemische aus Monoestern und Diestern des Glycerins mit verzweigten, oder geradkettigen, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Carbonsäuren einer Kohlenstoffkettenlänge von 8 bis 24, bevorzugt von 10 bis 18 und insbesondere von 12 bis 16, die einen Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 17, besonders bevorzugt von 4 bis 13 und insbesondere von 6 bis 10 aufweisen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die ethoxylierten Glyceryloleate und Glycerylcocoate und insbesondere bevorzugt ist PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, wie es beispielsweise im Handel unter der Bezeichnung Tegosoft^® GC oder Cetiol^® HE erhältlich ist.

Die Emulgatoren werden bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - linear and branched fatty acids of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts,
• Monoesters and / or mixtures of monoesters and diesters of glycerol with branched, or straight-chain, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of from 8 to 24, preferably from 10 to 18 and in particular from 12 to 16, having a degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to 20 from 2 to 17, more preferably from 4 to 13 and especially from 6 to 10. Ethoxylated glyceryl oleates and glyceryl cocoates According to the invention, and particularly preferred is PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as is available commercially for example under the name Tegosoft ^® GC or Cetiol ^® HE.

The emulsifiers are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In principle, non-ionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 8 to 18 can be used. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be preferred according to the invention.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may additionally contain protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof for further support of their skin and hair-care action. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of plant and animal origin can be used.

Cationized protein hydrolysates can be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or of biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Case Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is very particularly preferred.

The combination of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof has also proved to be advantageous.

According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The vitamin A component is preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

• • Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• • Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt wird.
• • Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 A1 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs werden bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt. Eine Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, ist besonders bevorzugt.
• • Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• • Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• • Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• • Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 A1 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is particularly preferred.
• • Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). The usual total amount of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential carboxylic acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

With regard to the nature of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, there are no fundamental restrictions. For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, one or more multi-phase shaking mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are characterized in addition to the excellent cleansing, nourishing and foaming properties continue by their application and production-friendly rheology and viscosity.

For this purpose, they have a viscosity in the range from 5,000 mPas to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 6,000 mPas to 12,000 mPas, in particular from 7,500 mPas to 10,500 mPas (measured in each case with a Haake Viscotester VT550 viscometer, 20 ° C., cylinder MK-2 measuring device; Heavy speed 8 / sec.).

A second subject of the present invention is a use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair. As regards the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, what has been said about the cosmetic compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Finally, a third object of the present invention is a process for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed off after a certain period of time, wherein after use the cosmetic composition improved combing and disentanglement and an improved feel and shine occur. With regard to the method for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic compositions of the invention.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it thereto.

Examples:

The following cosmetic compositions were prepared, all numerical values in the table below, unless otherwise stated, corresponding to the amount of the respective compound in percent by weight. The proteolipid of the formula (I) used in the following examples is preferably a compound of the formula (Ia) and / or (Ib) and / or (Ic). Table 1: formulations according to the invention recipes components I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX sodium laureth sulfate 12.5 12.0 15.0 10.0 8.0 Disodium cocoampho diacetate 7.0 6.0 4.0 8.0 10.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 12.0 Coco-glycoside 8.0 7.0 6.0 6.0 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Ceramide IIIB 0.01 0.05 0.1 0.02 0.2 Ceramide II 0.01 0.05 0.1 0.15 Proteolipid of the formula (I) 0.08 0.5 1.0 0.1 1.5 0.1 0.5 1.0 1.5 Polyquaternium-10 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Polyquaternium-67 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 keratin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 D-Pathenol 75% 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 citric acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium hydroxide 50% 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 sodium chloride 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The preparation of the formulations I to IX is carried out according to the following general rule:
The washing raw materials and the bulk of the water are introduced, heated to 70 ° C to 80 ° C and stirred until homogeneous. Subsequently, if appropriate, the thickeners preswollen in warm water and polymeric care substances are added. After all ingredients have been added to the cosmetic composition, gasification may optionally be performed with cooling and stirring to 25 ° C. If no gassing is provided, the mixture is cooled to 25 ° C with stirring. The preservatives and optionally perfume oils mixed with a solubilizer are added only at a temperature of 35.degree.

Results:

The formulations I to IX according to the invention result in cosmetic compositions which have high foaming power and excellent cleaning performance. The use of a combination of at least one special ceramide, at least one special proteolipid and at least one surfactant also leads to an improvement in hair properties, such as combability, entangleability, the handle and the gloss, and has no negative interactions with other ingredients.

The hairs cleaned with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have improved dry and wet combability, improved entanglement, improved feel and improved gloss.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high storage stability.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 92/13829 A1 [0102]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0097]

Claims (11)

Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one ceramide in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, (b) at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

wherein R ^{1 is} a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} - (CH ₂ ) _y -CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22, Y is -H or -OH, X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion, Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate and x represents values of 0 to 22. in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and (c) at least one surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the ceramide is selected from the group of (i) ceramide I; (ii) ceramide II; (iii) ceramide III; (iv) ceramide IIIB; (v) ceramide IV; (vi) ceramide V; (vii) ceramide VI; and mixtures thereof, in particular ceramide II, ceramide II and ceramide IIIB. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the at least one ceramide (a) in a total amount of 0.0002 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 1.0 wt .-%, preferably from From 0.0008 to 0.5 wt.%, More preferably from 0.002 to 0.1 wt.%, Even more preferably from 0.004 to 0.05 wt.%, Especially from 0.006 to 0.02 wt.% , based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ia)

wherein X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate contains. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ib)

wherein X ^{- is} selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , and Hy stands for an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ic)

wherein X is selected from Cl ^- , Br ^- , ½SO ₄ ^2- , 1 / 3PO ₄ ^3- , m is numbers from 8 to 22, n is the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably numbers from 3 to 12, R ^{3 is} the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R ³ may be different in each repeating unit. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one proteolipid (b) of the formula (I) in a total amount of 0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.003 to 6.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 4.5% by weight, still more preferably from 0.02 to 3.0% by weight, especially from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one ceramide (a) to the total amount of the at least one proteolipid (b) from 10: 1 to 1: 1000, preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 700, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 500, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 250, even more preferably from 1: 2 to 1: 100, in particular from 1: 5 to 1:60. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one surfactant (c) in a total amount of 0.2 to 50 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 45 wt .-%, preferably from 0.8 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably from 1.0 to 35 wt .-%, still more preferably from 3.0 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition , is included. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the care and / or cleaning of the skin and hair. A method for the care and / or cleaning of skin and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 applied to the optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed after a certain period of time, wherein after the application of the cosmetic composition Improved combability and disentanglement as well as improved grip and shine occur.