DE102013225550A1 - Cosmetic composition useful for care- and/or cleaning of head skin and hair, comprises N-acyl glutamic acid amide compound, a further surfactant comprising anionic-, nonionic- and/or amphoteric surfactant, and a cationic polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises (a) at least one N-acyl glutamic acid amide compound (I), (b) at least one further surfactant comprising (i) anionic surfactant, (ii) nonionic surfactant and/or (iii) amphoteric surfactant, and (c) at least one cationic polymer. The weight ratio of total amount of component (a) and total amount of component (b) is 1:1-1:800. Cosmetic composition comprises (a) at least one N-acyl glutamic acid amide compound of formula (I), (b) at least one further surfactant comprising (i) anionic surfactant, (ii) nonionic surfactant and/or (iii) amphoteric surfactant, and (c) at least one cationic polymer. The weight ratio of total amount of component (a) and total amount of component (b) is 1:1-1:800. R1 : aliphatic 2-20C alkyl; R2 : H or 1-4C alkyl; R3, R4 : CH 3, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl or tert-butyl; X : direct bond or C=O; and Y1 : O or NH. An independent claim is also included for care- and/or cleaning of head skin and hair, comprising applying the above cosmetic composition on optionally previously washed and/or wet hair, and optionally rinsing the composition after specific time, where the cosmetic composition improves dry- and wet combability and grip of the hair. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to the technical field of hair cleansing and hair care.

In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one specific N-acylglutamic acid amide, (b) at least one further surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; and (iii) mixtures thereof, and (c) at least one cationic polymer.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and care of the scalp and hair.

Finally, the present invention relates to a method for cleansing and care of scalp and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the dry or optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed after a certain period of time, wherein after the application of the cosmetic composition improved dry and wet combability as well as an improved grip occur.

Cosmetic compositions in the form of hair treatment agents must have a good cleaning action to reliably remove contaminants from the hair and scalp. Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions, especially the ingredients contained therein, should not cause unwanted deposits on the hair, as this hair properties, such as combability and the handle, are adversely affected.

Since the hair is claimed during the hair cleaning, most hair treatment products in the form of hair cleansers are additionally added care products and care agents with the longest possible effect in order to avoid excessive stress on the hair. Such care products and conditioners affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, after such treatments, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends.

It has therefore long been customary to add special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, to hair cleansing compositions. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.

There is still a need to provide cosmetic compositions in the form of hair treatment compositions which have a high cleaning and / or care performance and are easy to apply. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions which result in improved hair properties such as combability and hand.

The present invention has for its object to provide cosmetic compositions which are easy to use and which have a good cleaning performance and / or care performance. In particular, the dry and wet combability and the hair grip should be improved after use. Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions which have high stability even over long periods of storage.

It has now surprisingly been found that the addition of specific N-Acylglutaminsäureamiden in cosmetic compositions, in particular hair cleansing and hair care products, leads to a significant improvement in combing properties and the handle, if these N-Acylglutaminsäureamide used in specific weight ratios to the at least one other surfactant become. In addition, a trouble-free incorporation of the special N-Acylglutaminsäureamide and thus a cost-effective and simple production is possible. Finally, the addition of the specific N-Acylglutaminsäureamide does not lead to unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high storage stability.

• (a) mindestens ein N-Acylglutaminsäureamid der Formel (I)
  
  worin R¹ für einen aliphatischen Alkylrest mit 2 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, R² für Wasserstoff oder einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, und R³ und R⁴, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für einen Methylrest, Ethylrest, Propylrest, iso-Propylrest, Butylrest oder tert-Butylrest stehen, X für eine direkte Bindung oder eine C=O-Gruppe steht, Y für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe steht,
• (b) mindestens ein weiteres Tensid, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der (i) anionischen Tenside; (ii) amphoteren Tenside; sowie (iii) deren Mischungen, und
• (c) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer,

wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis der Gesamtmenge an (a) zu der Gesamtmenge an (b) 1:1 bis 1:800 beträgt. The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

• (a) at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R ^{1 is} an aliphatic alkyl radical having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R ³ and R ⁴ , each independently, is a methyl radical, ethyl radical, propyl radical, iso-propyl radical , Butyl or tert-butyl, X is a direct bond or a C = O group, Y is an oxygen atom or an NH group,
• (b) at least one further surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) amphoteric surfactants; and (iii) their mixtures, and
• (c) at least one cationic polymer,

wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) is 1: 1 to 1: 800.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention surprisingly have improved hair conditioning, in particular improved combability and an improved feel, due to the use of special N-acylglutamic acid amides. Moreover, the use of N-acylglutamic acid amides does not result in unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the N-acylglutamic acid amides can be incorporated into common formulations without significantly increasing the stability, in particular the storage stability, and the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions influence.

By combing according to the invention is meant both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.

Furthermore, the tactility of a fiber collective is understood as the handle in the context of the present invention, with the person skilled in the field sensing and evaluating the parameters of fullness and suppleness of the collective.

In addition, the term "amphoteric surfactants" in the context of the present invention means surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts.

In addition, the term "fatty alcohols" in the context of the present invention, aliphatic, long-chain, monohydric, primary alcohols understood, which have unbranched hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon radicals may be saturated but also monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Finally, the term "fatty acids" in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic monocarboxylic acids with an unbranched carbon chain which have hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon radicals can be either saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.

The indication of the total amount in relation to the components of the cosmetic composition relates in the present case-unless stated otherwise-to the total amount of active substance of the respective component.

worin
R¹ für einen aliphatischen Alkylrest mit 5 bis 17 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise 7 bis 15, insbesondere 9 bis 13, steht,
R² für Wasserstoff oder einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere für Wasserstoff, steht, und
R³ und R⁴, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für einen Methylrest, Ethylrest, Propylrest, iso-Propylrest, Butylrest oder tert-Butylrest, insbesondere für einen Butylrest stehen,
X für eine direkte Bindung oder eine C=O-Gruppe, insbesondere eine C=O-Gruppe, steht,
Y für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe, insbesondere eine NH-Gruppe, steht. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (I)

wherein
R ^{1 is} an aliphatic alkyl radical having 5 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 15, in particular 9 to 13,
R ^{2 is} hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular hydrogen, and
R ³ and R ⁴ , in each case independently of one another, are a methyl radical, ethyl radical, propyl radical, isopropyl radical, butyl radical or tert-butyl radical, in particular a butyl radical,
X is a direct bond or a C =O group, in particular a C =O group,
Y represents an oxygen atom or an NH group, in particular an NH group.

worin
n für ganze Zahlen von 6 bis 10, vorzugsweise von 7, 8 oder 9, bevorzugt von 9, steht, enthält. Durch den Einsatz dieses speziellen N-Acylglutaminsäureamids resultiert eine signifikante Verbesserung der Haareigenschaften, wie der Kämmbarkeit und des Griffs. Darüber hinaus lassen sich diese N-Acylglutaminsäureamide hervorragend in Formulierungen Einarbeiten und ermöglichen so eine einfache und kostengünstige Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen. Schließlich führt die Verwendung dieser speziellen N-Acylglutaminsäureamide nicht zu einer verminderten Lagerstabilität der kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen. Particularly good results are obtained in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (Ia)

wherein
n is integers from 6 to 10, preferably from 7, 8 or 9, preferably from 9, contains. The use of this special N-Acylglutaminsäureamids results in a significant improvement in hair properties, such as combability and the handle. In addition, these N-Acylglutaminsäureamide can be incorporated into formulations excellent and thus enable a simple and inexpensive preparation of the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Finally, the use of these particular N-Acylglutaminsäureamide does not lead to a reduced storage stability of the cosmetic compositions.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains the at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (I) in a total amount of 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 20% by weight, preferably 0, 05 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.07 to 12 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.15 to 8 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the cosmetic composition. The use of the specific N-acylglutamic acid amide in the above amounts results in a positive influence on hair properties such as combability and hand. In addition, the use of the above-mentioned amounts of the specific N-Acylglutaminsäureamide a negative influence on other ingredients is avoided and prevents a negative impact on the cleaning performance and stability.

• (i) linearen und verzweigten Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen;
• (ii) Ethercarbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 1 bis 16 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (iii) Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe;
• (iv) Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe;
• (v) Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe;
• (vi) Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6, bevorzugt 1 bis 4 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (vii) lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen;
• (viii) Alpha-Sulfonfettsäuremethylester von Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen;
• (ix) Alkylsulfate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette;
• (x) Alkylethersulfate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 1 bis 14 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (xi) sulfatierten Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether;
• (xii) Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette und 0 bis 10 Oxyethylgruppen; sowie
• (xiii) Alkylamphodiacetate mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette;
• (xiv) deren Mischungen.

According to the invention, the anionic surfactant is selected from the group of

• (i) linear and branched carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
• (ii) ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 16 oxyethyl groups;
• (iii) acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
• (iv) acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
• (v) acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
• (vi) sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 4, oxyethyl groups;
• (vii) linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
• (viii) alpha-sulfonic fatty acid methyl esters of carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
• (ix) alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain;
• (x) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups;
• (xi) sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers;
• (xii) alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 10 oxyethyl groups; such as
• (xiii) alkylamphodiacetates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain;
• (xiv) their mixtures.

A particularly high improvement in combability and feel is obtained when the anionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups; (ii) alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; (iii) alkyl amphodiacetates having 8 to 30, preferably 8 to 20, carbon atoms in the alkyl group; as well as their mixtures. The use of the aforementioned anionic surfactants in combination with the special N-Acylglutaminsäureamid on the one hand to excellent cleaning performance and on the other hand to improved wet and dry combability and improved grip. Furthermore, when using these surfactants in combination with the N-Acylglutaminsäureamids no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high cleaning performance and high storage stability.

• (i) N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, insbesondere Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat;
• (ii) N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, insbesondere Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat;
• (iii) 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe;
• (iv) Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat;
• (v) N-Alkylglycine;
• (vi) N-Alkylpropionsäuren;
• (vii) N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren;
• (viii) N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren;
• (ix) N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine;
• (x) N-Alkyltaurine;
• (xi) N-Alkylsarcosine;
• (xii) 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 Kohlenstofatomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• (xiii) Alkylbetaine mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette;
• (xiv) Alkylamidoalkylbetaine mit jeweils 4 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylkette;
• (xv) Aminopropionate;
• (xvi) Aminoglycinate;
• (xvii) Imidazoliniumbetaine; sowie
• (xviii) deren Mischungen.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group of

• (i) N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, especially cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate;
• (ii) N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, especially cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate;
• (iii) 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group;
• (iv) cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate;
• (v) N-alkylglycines;
• (vi) N-alkylpropionic acids;
• (vii) N-alkylaminobutyric acids;
• (viii) N-alkyliminodipropionic acids;
• (ix) N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines;
• (x) N-alkyl taurines;
• (xi) N-alkyl sarcosines;
• (xii) 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (xiii) alkylbetaines having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain;
• (xiv) alkylamidoalkylbetaines each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain;
• (xv) aminopropionates;
• (xvi) aminoglycinates;
• (xvii) imidazolinium betaines; such as
• (xviii) their mixtures.

Particularly good results in terms of improving combability and feel are obtained when the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (i) the N-alkylaminopropionates having a chain length of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; (ii) alkylacylaminoalkylaminopropionates each having 2 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; (iii) C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosines; (iv) alkylamidoalkylbetaines each having from 4 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; and (v) their mixtures. The use of the aforementioned amphoteric surfactants in combination with the special N-Acylglutaminsäureamid also leads to improved cleaning performance and improved wet and dry combability and improved grip. Furthermore, when using these surfactants in combination with the N-Acylglutaminsäureamids no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high cleaning performance and storage stability.

• (i) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, an Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatome in der Alkylgruppe;
• (ii) mit einem Methyl- oder C₂- bis C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, an Carbonsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• (iii) C₁₂–C₃₀-Carbonsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• (iv) Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl;
• (v) Polyolcarbonsäureester;
• (vi) alkoxilierte Triglyceride;
• (vii) alkoxilierte Carbonsäurealkylester mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen in dem Acylrest, 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatome in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 14 Oxyethylgruppen;
• (viii) Aminoxide;
• (ix) Sorbitancarbonsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitancarbonsäureester;
• (x) Zuckercarbonsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckercarbonsäureester;
• (xi) Carbonsäure-N-alkylglucamide;
• (xii) Alkylpolyglucoside der Formel R⁵O-[G]_p, in der R⁵ für einen Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht; sowie
• (xiii) deren Mischungen.

Furthermore, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group of

• (i) addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to carboxylic acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (Ii) with a methyl or C ₂ - to C ₆ alkyl end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (iii) C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• (iv) addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil;
• (v) polyol carboxylic acid ester;
• (vi) alkoxylated triglycerides;
• (vii) alkoxylated carboxylic acid alkyl esters having 6 to 22 carbon atoms in the acyl group, 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups;
• (viii) amine oxides;
• (ix) sorbitan carboxylic acid ester and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan carboxylic acid ester;
• (x) sugar carboxylic acid ester and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar carboxylic acid ester;
• (xi) carboxylic acid N-alkylglucamides;
• (xii) alkyl polyglucosides of the formula R ⁵ O- [G] _p in which R ^{5 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10 stands; such as
• (xiii) their mixtures.

Particular preference is given to the use of nonionic surfactants which are selected from the group of (i) addition products of from 5 to 60 mol, in particular from 20 to 40 mol, of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil; (ii) the polyethoxylated carboxylic acid ester having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 50; (iii) ethoxylated glyceryl carboxylic acid ester having a degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 20; (iv) alkyl oligoglucosides having 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; and (v) their mixtures. The use of the aforementioned nonionic surfactants in combination with the special N-Acylglutaminsäureamid to improved cleaning performance and improved wet and dry combability and improved grip. Furthermore, when using these surfactants in combination with the N-Acylglutaminsäureamids no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high cleaning performance and storage stability.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains the at least one further surfactant (b) in a total amount of 0.05 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 30 Wt .-%, more preferably from 1 to 25 wt .-%, still more preferably from 3 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 6 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The use of the at least one further surfactant (b) in the abovementioned amounts, in combination with the special N-acylglutamic acid amide, both results in outstanding cleaning performance in certain weight ratios both with outstanding cleaning performance and with excellent care performance. In particular, the combability and the grip are improved. Furthermore, when using the abovementioned amounts, a negative influence on further ingredients and the storage stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are avoided.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition particularly preferably contains a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) from 1: 2 to 1: 600, preferably from 1: 5 to 1: 400, preferably from 1:10 to 1: 200 , more preferably from 1:20 to 1: 100, even more preferably from 1:30 to 1:70, especially from 1:40 to 1:65. The use of the at least one specific N-acylglutamic acid amide (a) and the at least one surfactant (b) in these weight ratios results in an excellent cleaning and care performance. In particular, results in an improvement of the dry and wet combability and the handle of the hair. In addition, when using these weight ratios occur no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention, so that a high storage stability results.

• (i) Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen);
• (ii) quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivate, insbesondere Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 und Polyquaternium-72;
• (iii) kationischen Guar-Derivate;
• (iv) Chitosane;
• (v) polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure, insbesondere Polyquaternium-6 und Polyquaternium-7;
• (vi) Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und des -methacrylats;
• (vii) Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere;
• (viii) quaternierten Polyvinylalkohole;
• (ix) Polyquaternium 2;
• (x) Polyquaternium-16;
• (xi) Polyquaternium 17;
• (xii) Polyquaternium 18;
• (xiii) Polyquaternium 27;
• (xiv) Polyquaternium-69;
• (xv) Polyquaternium-74;
• (xvi) polymere Alkyloligoglukosiden der Formel (II)
  
  in welcher R⁵ und R⁶, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkenylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen, und A^– für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht; sowie
• (xvii) deren Mischungen.

According to the invention, the cationic polymer is selected from the group of

• (i) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds);
• (ii) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72;
• (iii) cationic guar derivatives;
• (iv) chitosans;
• (v) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7;
• (vi) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate;
• (vii) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers;
• (viii) quaternized polyvinyl alcohols;
• (ix) Polyquaternium 2;
• (x) polyquaternium-16;
• (xi) polyquaternium 17;
• (xii) polyquaternium 18;
• (xiii) Polyquaternium 27;
• (xiv) polyquaternium-69;
• (xv) Polyquaternium-74;
• (xvi) polymeric alkyloligoglucosides of the formula (II)
  
  in which R ⁵ and R ⁶ , each independently of one another, are a linear or branched alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, a linear or branched alkenyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and A ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion; such as
• (xvii) their mixtures.

The combability and the grip can be further improved if the at least one cationic polymer is selected from the group of (i) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72; (ii) dimethyldiallylammonium polymeric salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid; (iii) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate; and (iv) their mixtures. When using the conditioning conditioners mentioned above results in a particularly good improvement of combability and the handle. Furthermore, these cationic polymers have no negative interactions with the specific N-Acylglutaminsäureamid, so that a simple and inexpensive production is possible and a high storage stability results.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition preferably contains the at least one cationic polymer (c) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.07 to 6 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The use of the above-mentioned amounts of the cationic polymer allows an effective Improvement of the conditioning of the hair without, however, negative interactions with the special N-Acylglutaminsäureamid occur.

• (a) mindestens ein N-Acylglutaminsäureamid der Formel (Ia)
  
  worin n für ganze Zahlen von 6 bis 10 steht, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein weiteres Tensid, ausgewählt aus Natriumlaurethsulfat und/oder Dinatrium-C_8-12-Alkylamphodiacetat und/oder C₁₂-Alkylamido(C₃)-alkylbetain in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, ausgewählt aus Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 und Polyquaternium-72 in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird. Particularly good results in terms of combability and feel are obtained when a cosmetic composition containing:

• (a) at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (Ia)
  
  wherein n is an integer of 6 to 10, in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one further surfactant selected from sodium laureth sulfate and / or disodium C _8-12 alkyl amphodiacetate and / or C ₁₂ alkylamido (C ₃ ) alkyl betaine in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the Total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one cationic polymer selected from Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72 in a total amount of 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

• (a) mindestens ein N-Acylglutaminsäureamid der Formel (Ia)
  
  worin n für ganze Zahlen von 6 bis 10 steht, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,
• (b) mindestens ein weiteres Tensid, ausgewählt aus Natriumlaurethsulfat und/oder Dinatrium-C_8-12-Alkylamphodiacetat und/oder Natriumlaurylsulfat und/oder C₁₂-Alkylamido(C₃)-alkylbetain in einer Gesamtmenge von 2 bis 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, und
• (c) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, ausgewählt aus Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 und Polyquaternium-72 in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung,

eingesetzt wird. In addition, particularly good results are also obtained when a cosmetic composition containing:

• (a) at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (Ia)
  
  wherein n is an integer of 6 to 10, in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
• (b) at least one further surfactant selected from sodium laureth sulfate and / or disodium C _8-12 alkyl amphodiacetate and / or sodium lauryl sulfate and / or C ₁₂ alkylamido (C ₃ ) alkyl betaine in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight , based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
• (c) at least one cationic polymer selected from Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72 in a total amount of 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

is used.

The two above-mentioned two particularly preferred embodiments, which contain a combination of extremely special N-acylglutamic acid amides with specific surfactants and specific cationic polymers in specific amounts, result in excellent cleaning and care performance. In particular, the combability and the handle significantly improved. Furthermore, these combinations do not lead to a reduction in the storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

It can be provided according to the invention that the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 0.8 to 1:15, preferably from 1: 0.9 to 1:10, preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 8, more preferably from 1: 1.2 to 1: 6, even more preferably from 1: 1.5 to 1: 5, in particular from 1: 2 to 1: 4 contains. When using these weight ratios, a particularly good conditioning of the hair, in particular an improvement in combability and the handle is achieved.

Furthermore, it can also be provided that the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) from 4: 1 to 6: 1, preferably from 6: 1 to 8: 1, preferably from 8: 1 to 12: 1, more preferably from 9: 1 to 15: 1, even more preferably from 10: 1 to 16: 1, in particular from 12: 1 to 18: 1 contains.

Furthermore, in the context of the present invention, it is also possible for the cosmetic composition to have a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 15: 4 to 1: 100: 40, preferably from 1: 20: 6 to 1:90:35, preferably from 1: 25: 8 to 1:80:30, more preferably from 1: 30: 9 to 1:75:25, even more preferably from 1:35 : 10 to 1:70:20, especially from 1:40:12 to 1:65:18. The use of these weight ratios results firstly in an excellent cleaning performance and secondly in an improvement in combability and grip. Furthermore, a negative mutual influence of the ingredients is avoided when using the above-mentioned weight ratios, so that an increased effect and storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention results.

In addition to the aforementioned constituents, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain a number of other active ingredients and ingredients. Preference is given to adding further active ingredients to the cosmetic compositions which have additional cosmetic care properties in order to support the conditioning of the hair during the cleaning process.

In order to further improve the care properties of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, it may therefore be provided that the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one hair and / or skin conditioning agent, wherein the active ingredient is selected from the group of oil components, plant extracts and / or humectant.

Oil components suitable according to the invention may be selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, alcohols, fatty acid esters, natural oils of plant and animal origin and mixtures thereof, and are used in a total amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.

The term "silicones" is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean various structures of organosilicon compounds which are present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition may be included.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, welche flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder zyklisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, welche in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, welche eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Mischungen.

The silicones may preferably be selected from at least one member of the group of organosilicon compounds which is formed from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the conditioning agent is a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa · s, preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa · s.

The conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids having C ₆ -C ₃₀ -carbon atoms, it usually being possible to start from a recovery from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

Fatty alcohols suitable according to the invention are present in the cosmetic compositions in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.

As natural or synthetic waxes according to the invention, solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax and microwaxes of PE or PP can be used. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen werden im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung die Ester von C₆–C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂–C₃₀-Fettalkoholen verstanden. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, welche z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, welche z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C_16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester, wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester, wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, insbesondere Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride weisen vorzugsweise die Formel (II) auf
  
  in welcher R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶, jeweils unabhängig voneinander, für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R⁴ für einen Acylrest und R⁵ und R⁶ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether. n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-n-octyl n-octyl ether. Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. For the purposes of the present invention, ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained for example in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid _C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), -
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• Fatty acid partial glycerides, in particular monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably have the formula (II)
  
  in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ , each independently of one another, are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these Groups for an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{4 is} an acyl radical and R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil component used is ester oils, in particular esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

According to the invention, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rose hip kernel oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, shea butter, sunflower oil and grapeseed oil are particularly preferred.

These oil components are in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.

The plant extracts suitable according to the invention are extracts which can be prepared from all parts of a plant.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, white tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens preferred.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

In addition, it may prove advantageous to add moisturizing agents or penetration aids and / or swelling agents to the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and Triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols, such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. Particularly suitable according to the invention is glycerol.

The humectants are in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are suitable as cosmetic compositions for the cleansing and care of the hair. The cosmetic compositions may be in the form of hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof. Here, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be provided both as leave-on, ie as products remaining on the hair until the next hair wash, and as rinse-off, ie a few seconds to a few hours after application again rinsed products.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention have excellent foam properties, a high cleaning performance and a long shelf life. In addition, the combination of the specific N-acylglutamic acid amide, the at least one further surfactant and the at least one cationic polymer leads to an improvement of hair properties, such as combability or feel. In addition, the use of the combination does not result in unfavorable interaction with other ingredients, so that no deterioration in storage stability occurs.

In addition to the abovementioned compelling components according to the invention and the optional but preferred further components, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain further substances which condition the hair or improve the application properties of the compositions.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions for stabilization may contain an inorganic thickener. For the purposes of the present invention, phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) can be used as inorganic thickeners. Particularly stable foams having excellent foaming properties are obtained when magnesium aluminum silicates from the group of bentonites, in particular smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may if appropriate also be modified, are used as the inorganic thickener. In addition, it is also possible to use synthetic sheet silicates, such as, for example, the magnesium sheet silicate marketed by the company Süd Chemie under the trade name Optigel.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants are preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is particularly preferred.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂–C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈–C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospholipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze,
• – Monoester und/oder Gemische aus Monoestern und Diestern des Glycerins mit verzweigten, oder geradkettigen, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Carbonsäuren einer Kohlenstoffkettenlänge von 8 bis 24, bevorzugt von 10 bis 18 und insbesondere von 12 bis 16, die einen Ethoxylierungsgrad von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 17, besonders bevorzugt von 4 bis 13 und insbesondere von 6 bis 10 aufweisen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die ethoxylierten Glyceryloleate und Glycerylcocoate und insbesondere bevorzugt ist PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, wie es beispielsweise im Handel unter der Bezeichnung Tegosoft^® GC oder Cetiol^® HE erhältlich ist.

Die Emulgatoren werden bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt. In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - linear and branched fatty acids of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts,
• Monoesters and / or mixtures of monoesters and diesters of glycerol with branched, or straight-chain, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of from 8 to 24, preferably from 10 to 18 and in particular from 12 to 16, having a degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to 20 from 2 to 17, more preferably from 4 to 13 and especially from 6 to 10. Ethoxylated glyceryl oleates and glyceryl cocoates According to the invention, and particularly preferred is PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as is available commercially for example under the name Tegosoft ^® GC or Cetiol ^® HE.

The emulsifiers are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In principle, non-ionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 8 to 18 can be used. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be preferred according to the invention.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may additionally contain protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof for further support of their skin and hair-care action. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of plant and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention are protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The Protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in US Pat "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxyp Ropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyz ed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is very particularly preferred.

The combination of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof has also proved to be advantageous.

According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The vitamin A component is preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

• • Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• • Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt wird.
• • Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 A1 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs werden bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt. Eine Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, ist besonders bevorzugt.
• • Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• • Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• • Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• • Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 A1 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is particularly preferred.
• • Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). The usual total amount of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential carboxylic acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, a UV filter can additionally be used. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283), and dodecyl-dimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammoniumtosylat (Escalol ^® HP 610).

The one or more UV filters are usually used in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is preferred.

With regard to the nature of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, there are no fundamental restrictions. For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, one or more multi-phase shaking mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are characterized in addition to the excellent cleansing, nourishing and foaming properties continue by their application and production-friendly rheology and viscosity.

For this purpose, they have a viscosity in the range from 5,000 mPas to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 6,000 mPas to 12,000 mPas, in particular from 7,500 mPas to 10,500 mPas (measured in each case with a Haake Viscotester VT550 viscometer, 20 ° C., cylinder MK-2 measuring device; Heavy speed 8 / sec.).

In addition to the compelling components according to the invention and the other preferred components mentioned above, it is possible in principle to use all other components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Gelatine oder Pflanzengumme, beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Ceramide. Unter Ceramiden werden N-Acylsphingosin (Fettsäureamide des Sphingosins) oder synthetische Analogen solcher Lipide (sogenannte Pseudo-Ceramide) verstanden,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Viskositätsregler wie Salze (NaCl).

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example:

• Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Further substances for adjusting the pH, such as, for example, α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - Ceramides. Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - Viscosity regulator such as salts (NaCl).

A second subject of the present invention is a use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleansing and / or care of scalp and hair. As regards the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, what has been said about the cosmetic compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Finally, a third object of the present invention is a method for cleansing and / or care of the scalp and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the dry or optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed after a certain period of time the application of the cosmetic composition improved dry and wet combability and improved grip occur. Regarding the method for cleaning and / or care of the scalp and hair mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic compositions of the invention.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it thereto.

Examples:

The following cosmetic compositions were prepared, all numerical values in the table below, unless otherwise stated, the amount of the respective raw material in Weight percent correspond. The N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (I) used in the following examples is preferably a compound of the formula (Ia). Table 1: formulations according to the invention recipes components I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX sodium laureth sulfate 12.5 12.5 12.5 12.5 12.5 sodium lauryl sulfate 6.0 10 10 4.0 4.0 10 Disodium cocoampho diacetate 7.0 7.0 7.0 6.0 6.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (I) 0.2 0.5 0.4 0.8 1.0 0.3 0.7 0.6 1.2 Polyquaternium-10 0.7 0.5 1.0 1.2 1.5 2.0 0.8 1.4 1.8 citric acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 D-Pathenol 75% 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 455 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Perfume q. s q. s q. s q. s q. s q. s q. s q. s q. s water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The preparation of the formulations I to IX is carried out according to the following general rule: The washing raw materials and the bulk of the water are introduced, heated to 70 ° C to 80 ° C and stirred to homogeneity. Subsequently, if appropriate, the thickeners preswollen in warm water and polymeric care substances are added. After all ingredients have been added to the cosmetic composition, gasification may optionally be performed with cooling and stirring to 25 ° C. If no gassing is provided, the mixture is cooled to 25 ° C with stirring. The preservatives and optionally perfume oils mixed with a solubilizer are added only at a temperature of 35.degree.

Results:

The formulations I to IX according to the invention result in cosmetic compositions which have high foaming power and excellent cleaning performance. The use of a combination of special N-Acylglutaminsäureamid, at least one surfactant and at least one cationic polymer also leads to an improvement in hair properties, such as combability and grip, and has no negative interactions with other ingredients.

The hairs cleaned with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have an improved dry and wet combability and an improved feel.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high storage stability.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 92/13829 A1 [0081]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0076]

Claims (12)

Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (I)

wherein R ^{1 is} an aliphatic alkyl radical having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R ³ and R ⁴ , each independently, is a methyl radical, ethyl radical, propyl radical, iso-propyl radical , Butyl or tert-butyl, X is a direct bond or a C = O group, Y is an oxygen atom or an NH group, (b) at least one further surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) amphoteric surfactants; and (iv) their mixtures, and (c) at least one cationic polymer, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) is 1: 1 to 1: 800. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of the formula (Ia)

wherein n is an integer of 6 to 10, preferably 7, 8 or 9, preferably 9. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the at least one N-acylglutamic acid amide of formula (I) in a total amount of 0.01 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 0.03 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0 , 05 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.07 to 12 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.15 to 8 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (i) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups; (ii) alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; (iii) alkyl amphodiacetates having 8 to 30, preferably 8 to 20, carbon atoms in the alkyl group; as well as their mixtures. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) addition products of 5 to 60 mol, in particular 20 to 40 mol, ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil; (ii) the polyethoxylated carboxylic acid ester having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 50; (iii) ethoxylated Glycerylcarbonsäureester with a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 20; (iv) alkyl oligoglucosides having 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; and (v) their mixtures. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group of (i) the N-alkylaminopropionates having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms; (ii) alkylacylaminoalkylaminopropionates each having 2 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; (iii) C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosines; (iv) alkylamidoalkylbetaines each having from 4 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; and (v) their mixtures. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the at least one further surfactant (b) in a total amount of 0.05 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably from 1 to 25 wt .-%, even more preferably from 3 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 6 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) from 1: 2 to 1: 600, preferably from 1: 5 to 1: 400, preferably from 1: 10 to 1: 200, more preferably from 1:20 to 1: 100, even more preferably from 1:30 to 1:70, in particular from 1:40 to 1:65. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cationic polymer is selected from the group of (i) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72; (ii) dimethyldiallylammonium polymeric salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid; (iii) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate; and (iv) their mixtures. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the at least one cationic polymer (c) in a total amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.03 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.07 to 6 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of cosmetic composition, contains. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the care and / or cleaning of scalp and hair. A method for the care and / or cleaning of the scalp and hair, wherein a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 applied to the optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed after a certain period of time, wherein after the application of the cosmetic composition improved dry and wet combability as well as an improved grip occur.