CN210394719U - Freely cut weft knitting fabric - Google Patents
Freely cut weft knitting fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN210394719U CN210394719U CN201920940037.0U CN201920940037U CN210394719U CN 210394719 U CN210394719 U CN 210394719U CN 201920940037 U CN201920940037 U CN 201920940037U CN 210394719 U CN210394719 U CN 210394719U
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Abstract
The utility model provides a freely cut out latitude and compile surface fabric, the surface fabric is the single face fabric of being made by single face weft-knitted big circular knitting machine, the surface fabric has the plain net part, the plain net part is with the compound tissue circulation that 4 lines 2 row compound jacquard weave tissues formed as basic tissue unit, the plain net part the odd-even way of basic tissue unit carries out interval design with the odd-even way number of system of knitting correspondingly, the odd-even way tissue of basic tissue unit forms to be tucked and the superficial line is at same odd-even way and staggered arrangement between odd-even way, the even-even way tissue of basic tissue unit is two needles looping tissue, odd-even way tissue and even-even way tissue can be formed by dry spinning spandex package ammonia or the compound silk that constitutes by dry spinning spandex bare silk and DTY stretch yarn respectively. Therefore, the utility model overcomes the defects in the prior art and provides a shedding-proof weft-knitted free-cutting jacquard fabric which is not easy to curl.
Description
Technical Field
The utility model relates to a freely cut out latitude and compile surface fabric.
Background
According to the weft-knitted fabric on the market at present, due to the structural characteristics of the fabric, after the fabric is cut, a series of problems such as raveling, curling and the like easily occur to a coil at a cut position. At present, most weft-knitted fabrics need a series of methods such as slitting and hemming, locking and adding a connecting rib opening to solve the problems of raveling and hemming in the process of making clothes. The fabric appearance and the wearing effect are influenced, more cutting loss is caused, and the fabric is not attractive, uncomfortable and not economical, and is obviously contrary to the current concept of pursuing fashion, conciseness and comfort.
The ravel and crimp resistance of double weft knit fabrics is superior to that of single face fabrics, however, in practice, double weft knit fabrics are not as widely used as single face weft knit fabrics in some areas of the garment industry for a variety of reasons.
In the prior art, spandex is added during weft knitting weaving, and a fabric containing spandex is subjected to heat treatment at a certain temperature for a period of time, so that the surfaces of spandex filaments are melted, and the spandex filaments among coils are adhered to each other to form a net structure, thereby realizing the effect that the coil structure is not easy to shed. However, in this manner, the detachability and hemmability of the fabric are mainly dependent on melt blocking of the spandex filaments, and thus are greatly affected by the process temperature and the vehicle speed. If the temperature is lower, the spandex is softened but not melted, the fabric coil is still easy to separate, the edge curling is obvious, and the elasticity is general; if the temperature is higher, the melting degree of spandex is higher, and partial spandex filaments are fused or nearly fused, in this case, the fabric has a certain anti-loosing property, but the elasticity is poor.
SUMMERY OF THE UTILITY MODEL
Accordingly, improved free-form weft-knitted fabrics and methods of making the same are sought that overcome the problems associated with prior art anti-run weft-knitted fabrics.
The utility model discloses an utilize dry spinning spandex raw materials performance characteristics, with this specific weft knitting compound jacquard weave tissue of combination design and corresponding the parameter of weaving on the computer, weave out the weft knitting free cutting jacquard fabric that can overcome the anticreep of prior art defect and scatter, be difficult for the turn-up.
In order to achieve the above object, according to the present invention, there is provided a free cutting weft knitted fabric, which is a single-face fabric produced by a single-face weft circular knitting machine, the fabric having a plain net portion, the plain net portion being a complex stitch loop formed by using a 4 row and 2 column complex jacquard weave as basic stitch units, odd and even courses of the basic stitch units of the plain net portion being designed to be spaced corresponding to the number of odd and even courses of a knitting system, odd course stitches of the basic stitch units being formed by odd course knitting needles of the knitting system in such a manner that tucks and floats are alternately arranged in the same odd course and are alternately arranged between the odd courses, even course stitches of the basic stitch units being formed by even course knitting needles of the knitting system in such a manner that two needles are formed into a stitch structure, the odd course stitch structure being formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped with ammonia or by a composite yarn composed of dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY elastic yarn, and the even-road texture is formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia or a composite yarn consisting of dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY stretch yarn.
Preferably, the front side of the plain net part presents the pattern effect of the raw materials of the even-path knitting needles, and the back side of the plain net part presents the pattern effect of the raw materials of the odd-path knitting needles.
Preferably, the odds structure of the plain net part is formed by dry spinning spandex wrapped ammonia, and the even structure of the plain net part is formed by composite yarn formed by dry spinning bare spandex and DTY stretch yarn.
Preferably, the even stitch of the plain net part is formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia, and the odd stitch of the plain net part is formed by a composite yarn consisting of dry-spun bare spandex and DTY stretch yarn.
Preferably, the DTY stretch yarn is exposed on the front side of the flat mesh portion and covers the bare dry-spun spandex yarn.
Preferably, the free cutting weft-knitted fabric further comprises a pattern part, the odd-path stitch of the pattern part is a plain stitch knitted by an odd-path knitting needle of the knitting system, and the even-path stitch of the pattern part is a floating stitch and a tuck stitch knitted by an odd-path knitting needle of the knitting system.
According to the utility model discloses still provide a method of manufacturing freely cut weft-knitted fabric, freely cut weft-knitted fabric has the plain net part, its characterized in that, the method includes following step:
(1) preparing raw materials: wrapping dry-spun spandex with ammonia, dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY stretch yarn;
(2) weaving: weaving a flat net part on a single-side weft circular knitting machine by adopting corresponding machine parameters, wherein the flat net part is a composite tissue cycle formed by taking 4 rows and 2 lines of composite jacquard tissues as basic tissue units, odd-even paths of the basic weave units of the plain net part are designed at intervals corresponding to the number of the odd-even paths of the knitting system, odd-even paths of the basic weave units are formed into tuck stitches and float stitches which alternate in the same odd paths and are staggered among the odd paths by odd-even paths of knitting needles of the knitting system, even-even paths of the basic weave units are formed into two-needle knitting stitches by even-even paths of knitting needles of the knitting system, wherein dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia or a composite yarn consisting of dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY elastic yarn is fed into a strange path knitting needle, and dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia or a composite yarn consisting of dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY elastic yarn is fed into the cross knitting needle;
(3) and (3) fabric post-treatment: after the fabric is woven and taken off the machine, carrying out heat setting treatment on the fabric, wherein the presetting temperature of the fabric is 185-195 ℃ and the time is 60-90S;
(4) and (4) checking: after the fabric is subjected to post-treatment, the fabric enters a semi-finished product workshop, and then the fabric is subjected to shearing, edge curling and raveling inspection tests.
Preferably, dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia is fed to an odd-path knitting needle, and dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY stretch yarn are fed to an even-path knitting needle.
Preferably, dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia is fed to an alley needle, and dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY stretch yarn are fed to an alley needle.
Preferably, the DTY stretch yarn and the dry-spun bare spandex yarn are fed into the same yarn nozzle.
Preferably, the yarn feeding is performed by setting the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the DTY stretch yarn to be larger than the yarn laying longitudinal angle of the bare dry-spun spandex yarn, so that the bare dry-spun spandex yarn is covered with the DTY stretch yarn.
Preferably, the odd and even needles of the knitting system are fed independently and the machine parameters are controlled independently.
Preferably, the free weft-knitted fabric further comprises a pattern part, the odd-way knitting needle of the loop forming system is used for knitting the odd-way knitting of the pattern part into a plain stitch, and the odd-way knitting needle of the loop forming system is used for knitting the even-way knitting of the pattern part into a floating stitch and a tuck stitch.
Drawings
In order to clarify the invention, an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment thereof will be described below with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which only some embodiments of the invention are shown.
Fig. 1 schematically shows a structure artistic conception drawing of a composite jacquard weave basic unit of a plain net section according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 2 schematically shows a schematic yarn feeding diagram when dry spinning bare spandex and DTY stretch yarn are fed into an even yarn feeder according to an embodiment of the invention.
Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram showing the coil arrangement of dry-spun bare spandex and DTY stretch yarn in a needle hook according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 4 schematically shows a schematic view of a loop structure of a composite jacquard weave basic unit of a plain net section according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the exemplary embodiments of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to the accompanying drawings. It is to be understood that the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by a person of ordinary skill in the art without creative efforts are included in the protection scope of the present invention.
According to the utility model discloses an utilize dry spinning spandex package to twine ammonia, dry spinning spandex bare yarn, DTY stretch yarn raw materials and form specific compound jacquard weave organizational structure, obtain a weft knitting freely cutting out knitted fabric different from conventional.
According to the utility model discloses a freely cut-out fabric has plain net part and optional decorative pattern part, the odd-even way of plain net part compound jacquard weave tissue basic unit carries out interval design corresponding to the odd-even way number of system of knitting, the odd road foundation structure of plain net part designs for a stitch tucking + a stitch floating line tissue and alternate and staggered arrangement between the odd way in same odd way, even road foundation structure is the plain stitch tissue; the odd-path structure of the pattern part is a plain stitch structure, and the even-path structure is a floating line and a tuck stitch structure. The plain net part on the front surface of the fabric presents an even-path raw material effect surface, and the pattern part presents an odd-path raw material effect surface. The covering relation of the raw materials is changed according to the design requirement through the change of the structure, and various required pattern effects, such as a double-color jacquard effect, can be realized.
The utility model discloses a freely cut out weft-knitted fabric weaves on single face weft-knitted circular knitting machine. The raw material of the wrapped ammonia is dry-spun spandex wrapped with DTY stretch yarn, and the bare spandex yarn is dry-spun spandex. The dry-spun spandex has good heat resistance and rebound resilience, and is not easy to damage in the fabric post-treatment process.
Fig. 1 shows a structural design drawing of 4 rows and 2 columns of composite jacquard basic units of a plain net part of a fabric according to the present invention, the weaving direction being from bottom to top in the drawing. In fig. 1, reference numeral AA denotes a float, reference numeral BB denotes a tuck, and reference numeral CC denotes a stitch.
The weave structure unit is designed into 4 rows and 2 columns composite jacquard weave, and odd-even paths are designed at intervals corresponding to the number of paths of a loop forming system. The odd-way foundation structure is that a stitch tuck stitch and a stitch floating stitch are alternately arranged in the same odd way and are staggered between the odd ways, the even-way structure is a plain stitch (two stitches are looped), the front surface of the fabric plain net part presents the effect of the even-way raw material patterns, and the back surface of the fabric presents the effect of the odd-way raw material patterns. And an interlocking effect is formed between the odd-path tissue and the even-path tissue, so that the fabric is endowed with excellent anti-raveling performance.
In one embodiment of the present invention, a jacquard yarn (e.g., DTY stretch yarn) and a bare dry-spun spandex yarn are fed into the same yarn feeder in a twinned way, as shown in FIG. 2, wherein a horizontal arrow indicates the movement direction of a knitting needle, FIG. 2 schematically shows a twinned yarn carrier of a weft-knitted single-side jacquard and its yarn laying manner, the yarn carrier has two yarn guide holes 1 and 2, the yarn guide hole 1 is used for threading the bare dry-spun spandex yarn, the yarn guide hole 2 is used for threading the jacquard yarn, and the yarn laying longitudinal angle α of the jacquard yarn A is due to the yarn laying longitudinal angle α1Greater than dry-spun spandex bare yarn laying longitudinal angle α2The knitting needle contacts with the jacquard yarn A firstly and then contacts with the dry-spun spandex bare yarn B in the yarn hooking process when descending; as shown in fig. 3, the bare dry-spun spandex and the jacquard yarn are mutually configured in the needle hook of the knitting needle after the yarn laying is finished and the needle latch of the knitting needle is closed, it can be seen from the diagram that the jacquard yarn a is close to the needle back, and the bare dry-spun spandex B is closer to the needle hook tip, so that the jacquard yarn can be exposed on the front of the fabric in the subsequent knocking-over and looping processes, and the bare dry-spun spandex is completely covered by the jacquard yarn.
The variation in the coverage of the two materials is achieved by controlling the size of the yarn package longitudinal angle α at the yarn nozzle.
Besides the yarn laying angle, the design can also consider the influence of the performances of the raw materials (linear density, friction factor, rigidity and the like), the shapes of knitting needles and sinkers, the coil length, the yarn tension, the drawing tension and the like on the configuration relation of spandex and jacquard yarn coils, so as to avoid that the jacquard yarn A can not completely cover the bare spandex yarn B. Otherwise, the defects of silk turning can be generated on the grey cloth, and the problems of color absorption difference, white exposure and the like can also be caused in the subsequent dyeing process, so that the design and color effect of the fabric is greatly reduced.
In this embodiment, the wrapped ammonia raw yarn is fed independently in the odd passes. The dry spinning spandex wrapped ammonia can be formed by winding the outer wrapping nylon filament on the surface of the inner core dry spinning spandex bare filament in a spiral mode, the hand feeling and the appearance of the yarn are provided, the strength of the yarn is mainly determined by the strength of the outer wrapping nylon filament, and the dry spinning spandex core filament provides excellent elastic expansion performance, so that the wrapped ammonia has the excellent characteristics of two raw materials.
Because of the large elastic elasticity of the spandex, in order to obtain better dimensional stability and good anti-run performance of the fabric, odd paths of the flat net part tissue circulation unit are designed in the embodiment that tucks formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped yarns and floating threads are alternated in the same odd path and are staggered among the odd paths, the floating threads enable the transverse extensibility of the fabric to be reduced, the tucks appropriately shorten the length of the floating threads and enable two adjacent coil longitudinal rows to be closer in combination with the excellent shrinkage performance of the dry-spun spandex wrapped yarns, and broken yarns can be blocked by tuck hanging arcs when the fabric runs in the reverse weaving direction. In addition, the couple of the weave circulation unit of the plain net part is designed into two-needle looping, and dry-spun bare spandex yarns in the couple weave form complete loops in each course, so that the connection between adjacent courses is tighter. This not only improves the lateral and longitudinal density of the fabric, but also imparts excellent elasticity and structural stability to the fabric.
In addition, as shown in fig. 4, tucks and floating threads are staggered and combined between odd paths to form a physical interlocking effect between adjacent loops, and the interlocking effect is more prominent by the cohesive force and the friction force formed between the odd path wrapped ammonia raw material and the even path composite yarn, so that the fabric has a more stable structure and is not easy to loose. In fig. 4, reference numeral OP denotes an odd-path fasciated yarn; reference numeral EP denotes an even-path composite yarn.
The method for manufacturing the weft-knitted freely-cut anti-raveling knitted fabric mainly comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving on a single-side weft circular knitting machine: weaving the plain net part by using the 4 rows and 2 columns of composite jacquard weave as a basic circulation unit, wherein odd-even paths of the basic weave unit are designed at intervals corresponding to the number of the odd-even paths of a loop forming system, odd-numbered base weaves of the plain net part are formed into a needle tuck stitch and a needle floating thread which are alternately arranged in the same odd path and are staggered between the odd paths, and even-numbered weaves are formed into plain weave (two needles are looped). The odd path uses an independent yarn feeding mode of dry spinning spandex covered with spandex yarn, the even path uses a composite yarn feeding mode of dry spinning bare spandex yarn and DTY stretch yarn, and the corresponding loom parameters are adopted for loom knitting.
Preferably, the dry-spun spandex-wrapped ammonia raw material: thickness 51D, gauge (E40D + ND 40D/12F); DTY polyester stretch yarn: the thickness is 75D, and the cation can be dyed; dry spinning bare spandex ammonia: the thickness is 30D. The odd-path yarn feeding amount is 24CM/100N, and the tension is about 6 cN; the yarn feeding amount of the even path is 25CM/100N, and the tension is about 3-5 cN. The raw materials are in proportion: PH50/E25/N25 (50% of polyester stretch yarn, 25% of dry-spun spandex and 25% of nylon).
(2) Post-treatment of the grey cloth: after the grey cloth is knitted off the machine, the grey cloth is subjected to heat setting treatment.
Wherein the pre-setting temperature of the grey cloth is 185-195 ℃, and preferably 185-190 ℃; the time is 60S to 90S. The utility model people find through research that the adhesion force effect between the dry spinning bare spandex filament and the stretch yarn is not good when the temperature is lower than 185 ℃, and the flatness and the dimensional stability of the fabric are relatively poor after the fabric is shaped; when the temperature is higher than 195 ℃, the odd-path raw material is wrapped with dry-spun spandex in ammonia and the bare dry-spun spandex in the even-path raw material is easy to damage, so that the free cutting performance of the fabric is influenced, and needle-eye-shaped defects are formed on the surface of the fabric. The utility model discloses set up grey cloth presetting temperature for 185 ~ 195 ℃, preferred 185 ~ 190 ℃ then overcome above-mentioned shortcoming well.
The pre-shaping of the grey cloth is also very important for realizing the function of the anti-raveling fabric. The step can better strengthen the cohesive force and the adhesive force of the dry spinning bare spandex and the DTY elastic yarn of the couple; meanwhile, the interlocking effect of the ammonia-coated raw materials of the odd path and the composite raw materials of the even path is more stable.
(3) And (4) checking: after the grey cloth is post-treated, the grey cloth enters a semi-finished product workshop, and then the grey cloth is subjected to a test of cutting, curling and raveling.
According to the ISO 63304M F standard, the fabric (containing dry-spinning spandex and specific texture) obtained according to the utility model and the contrast fabric without the specific texture and dry-spinning spandex raw material of the utility model are subjected to 25 washing tests. According to the standard evaluation, the fabric of the utility model is qualified in 25 times washing test, and the contrast fabric is unqualified in washing test, as shown in table 1. As can be seen from the state of the fabric after washing, the anti-raveling performance of the fabric containing dry-spun spandex and a specific tissue structure obtained by the utility model is obviously superior to that of a contrast fabric.
Table 1: comparative test for Release Performance
While the specification describes the preferred embodiments of the present invention, those skilled in the art will appreciate that modifications and variations may be made to these embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. For example, according to still another embodiment of the present invention, dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia may be fed in the idol, bare dry-spun spandex and DTY stretch yarn may be fed in the odds, or dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia or composite yarn composed of bare dry-spun spandex and DTY stretch yarn may be fed in both the odds and the idol, and the manufacturing process may be adaptively changed accordingly.
The present invention includes various combinations of the embodiments or aspects described herein, the scope of which is defined by the appended claims and equivalents thereof.
Claims (4)
1. A freely cut weft knitting fabric is characterized in that the fabric is a single-sided fabric made by a single-sided weft knitting circular knitting machine, the fabric is provided with a plain net part, the plain net part is a composite tissue circulation formed by taking 4 rows and 2 lines of composite jacquard weave as basic tissue units, odd-even paths of the basic organization units of the plain net part are designed at intervals corresponding to the number of odd-even paths of a looping system, the odd-path stitch of the basic stitch unit is formed by odd-path knitting needles of the stitch forming system to form tucks and floats which alternate in the same odd path and are staggered between the odd paths, the loop stitch of the basic stitch unit is formed into a two-needle loop stitch by a loop needle of the loop-forming system, the strange path tissue is formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia or a composite yarn consisting of dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY stretch yarn, and the even-road texture is formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia or a composite yarn consisting of dry-spun spandex bare yarn and DTY stretch yarn.
2. The free-form weft-knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the front side of the flat net portion exhibits a pattern effect of a material for even-path knitting needles, and the back side of the flat net portion exhibits a pattern effect of a material for odd-path knitting needles.
3. The free cutting weft knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the odd stitch of the plain net part is formed by dry spinning spandex wrapped ammonia, and the even stitch of the plain net part is formed by composite yarn consisting of dry spinning bare spandex and DTY stretch yarn.
4. The free cutting weft knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the even stitch of the plain net portion is formed by dry-spun spandex wrapped ammonia, and the odd stitch of the plain net portion is formed by composite yarn consisting of dry-spun bare spandex and DTY stretch yarn.
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| CN201920940037.0U CN210394719U (en) | 2019-06-21 | 2019-06-21 | Freely cut weft knitting fabric |
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| CN201920940037.0U CN210394719U (en) | 2019-06-21 | 2019-06-21 | Freely cut weft knitting fabric |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112111843A (en) * | 2019-06-21 | 2020-12-22 | 广州市天海花边有限公司 | Freely cut weft-knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112111843A (en) * | 2019-06-21 | 2020-12-22 | 广州市天海花边有限公司 | Freely cut weft-knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
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