CN117815096A - Moisturizing and repairing composition and application thereof - Google Patents
Moisturizing and repairing composition and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN117815096A CN117815096A CN202410130836.7A CN202410130836A CN117815096A CN 117815096 A CN117815096 A CN 117815096A CN 202410130836 A CN202410130836 A CN 202410130836A CN 117815096 A CN117815096 A CN 117815096A
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- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 241000790228 Nardostachys jatamansi Species 0.000 claims abstract description 15
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a moisturizing and repairing composition and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetic preparations; the composition specifically discloses the components as follows: glucosides, olive leaf extract, inonotus obliquus extract, beta-glucan; the composition also comprises the following components: lycium seed oil, extract of Nardostachys jatamansi; the moisturizing repair composition provided by the invention can form a stable long-acting water-locking barrier on the surface layer of skin; the compound composition of the medlar seed oil and the spikenard extract has promotion effect on long-time moisturizing performance of the compositions of the glucosides, the olive leaf extract, the inonotus obliquus extract and the beta-glucan.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetic preparations, and particularly relates to a moisturizing and repairing composition and application thereof.
Background
There are various types of moisturizing and repairing cosmetics currently on the market, such as aqueous moisturizers, oily moisturizers, moisturizing creams, moisturizing lotions and the like. The moisturizing and repairing cosmetics mainly achieve the effects of moisturizing skin, relieving skin dryness, repairing skin injury and the like through external application and the permeation of moisturizing components.
However, existing moisturizing repair cosmetics also have some technical drawbacks. First, some moisturizing make-up cosmetics have an insufficient duration of moisturizing effect and require frequent use to maintain the moisture and moisturization of the skin. Secondly, some moisturizing and repairing cosmetics have unsatisfactory penetration effects, cannot effectively transfer moisturizing components to deep layers of skin, and cannot achieve ideal repairing effects. In addition, some moisturizing cosmetic ingredients are not natural and mild enough and may cause skin irritation or irritation.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a moisturizing and repairing composition which has the characteristics of good moisturizing performance and long-term moisturizing performance, and can effectively transfer moisturizing components to deep layers of skin to achieve an ideal moisturizing and repairing effect.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:
in a first aspect, the invention discloses a composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
specifically, the composition also comprises the following components: lycium seed oil, extract of Nardostachys jatamansi;
the medlar seed oil is 0.012-0.015 part by mass, and the extract of Nardostachys jatamansi is 0.0002-0.0005 part by mass.
In a second aspect, the present invention discloses a moisturizing repair lotion comprising the composition of the first aspect.
Specifically, the composition is added to the emulsion in an amount of 1.1 to 2.15% by mass.
More specifically, antioxidants, preservatives, humectants, emulsifiers and solvents are also included.
Still more preferably, the antioxidant is at least one of arginine, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid, propyl gallate.
Still more preferably, the preservative is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
Still more preferably, the humectant is at least one of glycerin, allantoin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol;
the emulsifier is at least one of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose diisostearate and glycerol stearate.
In a third aspect, the invention discloses a method for preparing the moisturizing repair emulsion according to the second aspect, comprising the following steps:
heating a certain amount of antioxidant, preservative, humectant, emulsifier and solvent to 65-85 ℃ for dissolution, stirring, homogenizing and mixing, and preserving heat for 20-60min to obtain a mixture;
and (2) cooling the mixture obtained in the step (1) to 40-50 ℃, adding the composition according to claim 1 or 2, dissolving, stirring and mixing to obtain the moisturizing repair emulsion.
In a fourth aspect, the use of a composition according to the first aspect for the preparation of a skin care preparation having moisturizing, whitening, repairing, soothing, antioxidant, skin refreshing and/or acne removing effects.
The glucosyl glycoside has excellent moisturizing effect, and can regulate osmotic pressure in cells, protect skin structure from damage, and reduce water loss in the absence of water. In addition, it activates cellular functions, contributing to skin repair. In the composition disclosed by the invention, the glyceroglucoside plays a main role in moisturizing and repairing, and can better compound and compatibilize water-soluble components and oil-soluble components.
The olive leaf extract is rich in various antioxidant substances, such as polyphenols, which can resist free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, and helps to maintain skin health.
The inonotus obliquus extract has remarkable antioxidation and anti-inflammatory effects, can improve the skin texture and reduce fine wrinkles, and has certain anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects; in the experimental process, the inonotus obliquus extract has the effect of promoting the moisturizing effect of the moisturizing composition, and the moisturizing property of the whole formula is improved.
Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide substance, has good moisture retention and film forming properties, can strengthen the skin barrier function, improves the absorption capacity of skin to moisture and nutrient substances, has anti-inflammatory and antiallergic effects, and is beneficial to relieving skin sensitivity and redness.
In the invention, the medlar seed oil and the Nardostachys jatamansi extract are added, so that the moisture retention performance of the whole formula composition can be improved and the health state of skin can be enhanced by the characteristics of the medlar seed oil and the Nardostachys jatamansi extract; the Nardostachys jatamansi extract has good skin moistening and penetration promoting properties, can improve transdermal absorption rate, promote absorption of nutrients by skin, and improve the effect of functional components on deep skin; compared with other base oils, the medlar seed oil disclosed by the invention can be better compatible with the Nardostachys jatamansi extract, meanwhile, the Nardostachys jatamansi extract can promote the moisturizing performance of the medlar seed oil, the medlar seed oil is better compatible with the polysaccharide and the water-soluble substances, and the long-time moisturizing effect of the composition can be realized after the medlar seed oil is compounded.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the moisturizing repair composition provided by the invention can form a stable long-acting water-locking barrier on the surface layer of skin;
2. the compound composition of the medlar seed oil and the spikenard extract has promotion effect on long-time moisturizing performance of the compositions of the glucosides, the olive leaf extract, the inonotus obliquus extract and the beta-glucan.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the percentage decrease in skin moisture loss.
Detailed Description
For a better understanding of the present invention, reference will now be made to the following description of specific examples, which are included in the terminology used to describe specific embodiments of the invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
In the invention, the following components are added:
the OLIVE LEAF EXTRACT is OLIVE (Olea EUROPAEA) LEAF EXTRACT, INCI name is Olea EUROPAEA (OLIVE) LEAF EXTRACT, available from HALLSTAR in the united states.
Inonotus obliquus EXTRACT is Inonotus obliquus (INONOTUS OBLIQUUS) EXTRACT, INCI name INONOTUS OBLIQUUS (MUSHROOM) EXTRACT, available from Siami Tianrui Biotechnology Co.
The Lycium seed oil is Lycium BARBARUM (Lycium BARBARUM) seed oil, INCI name LYCIUM BARBARUM SEED OIL, available from Shanghai, inc.
The Nardostachys jatamansi extract is Nardostachys jatamansi (NARDOSTACHYS JATAMANSI) extract, INCI name NARDOSTACHYS JATAMANSI EXTRACT, available from Shanghai dry chemical Co., ltd.
The other raw materials and reagents used in the present example and comparative example were all commercially available.
The experimental methods, in which specific conditions are not noted in the following examples, are generally conducted under conventional conditions or under conditions recommended by the manufacturer. Percentages and parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated.
The preparation of the moisturizing repair composition comprises the following steps:
step (1), weighing raw materials according to the mass parts of the table 1;
and (2) placing the weighed raw materials into a stirring tank for uniform mixing.
Table 1 components of moisturizing repair compositions
| Component content/serial number | Composition 1 | Composition 2 | Composition 3 | Composition 4 | Composition 5 | Composition 6 | Composition 7 | Composition 8 |
| Glycerol glucoside | 1 | 1.5 | 2 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 2 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| Olive leaf extract | 0.05 | 0.075 | 0.08 | 0.075 | 0.075 | 0.08 | 0.075 | 0.075 |
| Inonotus obliquus extract | 0.001 | 0.001 | 0.003 | 0.001 | 0.001 | 0.003 | 0.001 | - |
| Beta-glucan | 0.0495 | 0.0495 | 0.0495 | 0.0495 | 0.0495 | 0.0495 | 0.0495 | 0.06 |
| Lycium seed oil | - | - | - | 0.012 | 0.015 | 0.015 | 0.020 | - |
| Extract of Nardostachys jatamansi | - | - | - | 0.0002 | 0.0005 | 0.0005 | - | - |
Note that: in table 1 "-" indicates no addition.
Cytotoxicity detection of moisturizing repair compositions
MTT assay
(1) Cell inoculation: according to 1X 10 4 Inoculation Density of individual/well keratinocytes were inoculated into 96 well plates, placed in an incubator and incubated overnight (37 ℃, 5% CO) 2 )。
(2) Experimental grouping: the experiment sets a blank control group and an experiment group, 3 cell-free holes are additionally arranged to be zero-setting holes, samples in the experiment group are the above compositions 1-6, 6 experiment groups are respectively arranged, and 3 compound holes are arranged in each group.
(3) Preparing a culture solution: the design was as in Table 2, with the basic broth (EpiLife) being used to prepare the different test substances.
TABLE 2 liquid formulation schedule
Note that: in table 2, the unit is parts by mass, "-" indicates that no addition was made.
(4) Administration: taking out the 96-well plate after 24 hours, removing old culture medium, adding 100 mu L of culture solution into each well of a blank control group, and adding 100 mu L of culture solution containing corresponding samples into each well of an experimental group; the zeroed group was inoculated without cells and only 100. Mu.L of basal medium was added. And after the administration is finished, the culture medium is returned to the incubator for continuous culture.
(5) And (3) detection: after cell culture for 24 hours, the supernatant was discarded and MTT working solution was added. Incubate at 37℃for 4h in the absence of light, after incubation, discard supernatant, add 100. Mu.L DMSO per well, read OD at 490 nm.
(6) Cell relative viability calculation:
maximum safe concentration of composition measured by MTT method
TABLE 3 MTT assay results for compositions
The cell activity of the compositions 1-6 is more than or equal to 90 percent, and meets the requirement of concentration addition.
Preparation of moisturizing repair emulsion
Step (1), weighing a certain amount of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer, glycerol, allantoin and distilled water according to a table 4, mixing, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, stirring, homogenizing until the components are completely dissolved, and preserving heat for 20min to obtain an oil phase for later use;
step (2), a certain amount of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone and arginine are weighed and dissolved in distilled water to obtain a water phase; cooling the oil phase to 65 ℃, adding a pre-dissolved water phase, and homogenizing and dispersing until the mixture is completely mixed to obtain a mixed phase;
step (3), cooling the mixed phase to 45 ℃, sequentially adding functional components of glucosinolate, olive leaf extract, inonotus obliquus extract, beta-glucan, medlar seed oil and spikenard extract, and stirring until the functional components are completely dissolved;
and (4) cooling to 38 ℃, and discharging to obtain the moisturizing repair emulsion examples 1-8.
Table 4 example preparation of raw materials in parts by mass
Note that: in the table "-" is not added.
Performance testing
Sample stability test:
1. heat resistance test: the temperature of the constant temperature incubator is regulated to 40 ℃, the prepared examples are respectively used as 8 groups of samples, three samples of each group are taken and are filled in transparent glass bottles, the sample filling amount is 20 ml/bottle, the samples are placed in the constant temperature incubator after being sealed, and the samples are taken out after three months, are restored to room temperature, and are observed for appearance change.
2. Cold resistance test: and (3) regulating the temperature of the constant temperature incubator to-10 ℃, taking three samples from each group, filling the three samples into transparent glass bottles, sealing the bottles with the sample filling quantity of 20 ml/bottle, putting the bottles into the constant temperature incubator for three months, taking out the bottles, recovering the bottles to room temperature, and observing the appearance change.
3. And (3) normal temperature test: and (3) taking three samples from the 8 groups, placing the three samples into transparent glass bottles, wherein the sample loading amount is 20 ml/bottle, sealing, standing at normal temperature for 6 months, and observing the appearance change of the emulsion.
No phenomena such as layering, precipitation, color change and the like are observed in the heat resistance test, the cold resistance test and the normal temperature test, and the original appearance is maintained.
Human skin patch test:
examples 1 to 8 of the above preparation were referred to the human skin patch test in 2022 cosmetic safety technical Specification.
Skin reactions were observed as standard at 30min (after the disappearance of the indentations), 24h and 48h, respectively, and the observations were recorded, see table 5.
TABLE 5 human safety test results
| Numbering device | 30min | 24h | 48h |
| Example 1 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 2 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 3 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 4 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 5 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 6 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 7 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
| Example 8 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 | Grade 0, 30 |
Reduction test of skin moisture loss:
the level of percutaneous water loss (TEWL value) is an important marker for evaluating the skin barrier function.
TEWL values were measured by a skin percutaneous water loss tester.
The test samples were examples 1-8.
Experimental protocol: 16 subjects with 40+ -1 year old skin dryness were selected, and a total of 8 experimental groups were set, two persons each, each subject labeled 3×3cm inside the forearm of both hands 2 The test area, the same arm can mark 2 areas, and the interval between the areas is 1cm. Test samples and blank control were randomly distributed on the left and right arms. The measurement of the test and control areas was performed using a capacitive skin assay. Each zone was measured 15 times in parallel, the blank value of each test zone was measured first, and then the test sample was measured at 0.5 g/9 cm 2 The amount of (C) is uniformly applied in the test area. Skin moisture content was measured in the test and blank areas 1,2, 3, 4 hours after application (measured at this time during verification).
Experiment requirements: no product (cosmetic or topical medicine) can be used 2-3 days before the test site. The temperature of the test environment is controlled at 25+/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 40+/-5%, purified water at 36 ℃ is used for wiping the two arms of the subject before the test, and the subject is allowed to sit still for 30min in the test environment for the test.
Evaluation criteria: TEWL values were measured for each period separately according to the experimental design, and the decrease in skin moisture loss (average value per group) was calculated for each time point. The greater the reduction in the amount of skin moisture loss, the better the skin barrier repair effect, and the results are shown in table 6 and fig. 1.
The calculation formula is as follows:
reduction in skin moisture loss = [ (T0-T1)/T0 ] ×100%
Wherein T1 is the TEWL value corresponding to the test group at each time point, and T0 is the TEWL value corresponding to the blank control group at each time point.
TABLE 6 reduction in skin moisture loss (%)
| Group/time | 1h | 2h | 3h | 4h |
| Example 1 | 24.8 | 23.3 | 21.7 | 19.6 |
| Example 2 | 25.1 | 24.1 | 22.9 | 21.2 |
| Example 3 | 24.2 | 22.6 | 21.1 | 19.1 |
| Example 4 | 25.9 | 25.3 | 24.7 | 24.1 |
| Example 5 | 26.3 | 25.8 | 25.1 | 24.7 |
| Example 6 | 25.6 | 25.4 | 24.5 | 24.2 |
| Example 7 | 26.0 | 24.8 | 23.6 | 21.6 |
| Example 8 | 22.2 | 20.5 | 19.3 | 17.2 |
Analysis of results:
according to the test results, as shown in fig. 1, when the test time is 3 and 4 hours, the decrease rate of the skin moisture loss is accelerated in examples 1-3 compared with examples 4-6, which means that the compositions of examples 4-6 have smaller moisture loss during long-term moisture retention, and are more favorable for long-term moisture retention; the medlar seed oil and the spikenard extract provided by the invention can form a stable long-acting water-locking barrier on the surface layer of skin, so that the long-time moisturizing effect of the functional composition of the glucosinolate, the olive leaf extract, the inonotus obliquus extract and the beta-glucan is improved.
From the results, it was found that the compositions of examples 1 to 3 showed a higher decrease in skin moisture loss than that of example 8, indicating that the inonotus obliquus extract in the composition provided by the present invention had an accelerating effect on improving the moisturizing performance of the composition.
While specific embodiments of the invention have been described above, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that this is by way of example only, and the scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims. Various changes and modifications to these embodiments may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, but such changes and modifications fall within the scope of the invention.
Claims (10)
1. The composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:
2. the composition of claim 1, further comprising the components: lycium seed oil, extract of Nardostachys jatamansi;
the medlar seed oil is 0.012-0.015 part by mass, and the extract of Nardostachys jatamansi is 0.0002-0.0005 part by mass.
3. A moisturizing repair lotion comprising the composition of claim 1 or 2.
4. A moisturizing repair lotion according to claim 3, wherein the composition is added to the lotion in an amount of 1.1-2.15% by mass.
5. A moisturizing repair lotion according to claim 3 or 4 further comprising an antioxidant, preservative, humectant, emulsifier and solvent.
6. The moisturizing repair emulsion of claim 5, wherein the antioxidant is at least one of arginine, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid, propyl gallate.
7. The moisturizing repair emulsion of claim 5, wherein the preservative is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
8. The moisturizing repair lotion of claim 5, wherein the humectant is at least one of glycerin, allantoin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol;
the emulsifier is at least one of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose diisostearate and glycerol stearate.
9. A method of preparing a moisturizing repair lotion according to any one of claims 3 to 8, comprising the steps of:
heating a certain amount of antioxidant, preservative, humectant, emulsifier and solvent to 65-85 ℃ for dissolution, stirring, homogenizing and mixing, and preserving heat for 20-60min to obtain a mixture;
and (2) cooling the mixture obtained in the step (1) to 40-50 ℃, adding the composition according to claim 1 or 2, dissolving, stirring and mixing to obtain the moisturizing repair emulsion.
10. Use of the composition according to claim 1 or 2 for the preparation of a skin care preparation having moisturizing, whitening, repairing, soothing, antioxidant, skin refreshing and/or acne removing effects.
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Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101658472A (en) * | 2009-09-24 | 2010-03-03 | 青岛市市立医院 | Pure traditional Chinese medicine emulsifiable paste for whitening and protecting skin and preparation method thereof |
| CN110167527A (en) * | 2016-12-29 | 2019-08-23 | 巴斯夫美容护理法国公司 | Purposes of the coconut water as Extraction solvent |
| CN110430865A (en) * | 2016-12-21 | 2019-11-08 | 阿克生物科技公司 | Cosmetic composition and application thereof comprising Inonotus obliquus extract |
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| CN101658472A (en) * | 2009-09-24 | 2010-03-03 | 青岛市市立医院 | Pure traditional Chinese medicine emulsifiable paste for whitening and protecting skin and preparation method thereof |
| CN110430865A (en) * | 2016-12-21 | 2019-11-08 | 阿克生物科技公司 | Cosmetic composition and application thereof comprising Inonotus obliquus extract |
| CN110167527A (en) * | 2016-12-29 | 2019-08-23 | 巴斯夫美容护理法国公司 | Purposes of the coconut water as Extraction solvent |
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