CN117771130A - Anhydrous foundation and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Anhydrous foundation and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN117771130A CN117771130A CN202311797856.1A CN202311797856A CN117771130A CN 117771130 A CN117771130 A CN 117771130A CN 202311797856 A CN202311797856 A CN 202311797856A CN 117771130 A CN117771130 A CN 117771130A
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 58
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 239000000706 filtrate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 240000004808 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Species 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 238000000855 fermentation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 230000004151 fermentation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical class CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000002738 chelating agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims description 36
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 36
- -1 organosiloxane compound Chemical class 0.000 claims description 32
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 claims description 23
- 229920002385 Sodium hyaluronate Polymers 0.000 claims description 22
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyltriethoxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OCC)(OCC)OCC MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
- 229960003493 octyltriethoxysilane Drugs 0.000 claims description 19
- 235000014680 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Nutrition 0.000 claims description 17
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 12
- IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- WCDDVEOXEIYWFB-VXORFPGASA-N (2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-3-[(2s,3r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-4,5,6-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@@H]1C[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@@H](C(O)=O)O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O WCDDVEOXEIYWFB-VXORFPGASA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 229940015975 1,2-hexanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)CO FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 229940014041 hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- LPGFSDGXTDNTCB-UHFFFAOYSA-N [3-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)-2,2-bis(16-methylheptadecanoyloxymethyl)propyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LPGFSDGXTDNTCB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)CCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 claims description 7
- 229940057874 phenyl trimethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 7
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 7
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- VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium carbonate Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]C([O-])=O VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
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- VFKZECOCJCGZQK-UHFFFAOYSA-M 3-hydroxypropyl(trimethyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCO VFKZECOCJCGZQK-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000010418 carrageenan Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000679 carrageenan Substances 0.000 claims description 5
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- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 claims description 5
- TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium sulfate Chemical compound [Ba+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
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- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- AXCZMVOFGPJBDE-UHFFFAOYSA-L calcium dihydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[Ca+2] AXCZMVOFGPJBDE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000920 calcium hydroxide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910001861 calcium hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
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- 125000005375 organosiloxane group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 25
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- 239000004519 grease Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 37
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- TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4'-hydroxyacetophenone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
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- CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N (2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol;(z)-octadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N 0.000 description 8
- CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L Magnesium sulfate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-][S+2]([O-])([O-])[O-] CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 8
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- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 5
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- RWLALWYNXFYRGW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Ethyl-1,3-hexanediol Chemical compound CCCC(O)C(CC)CO RWLALWYNXFYRGW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to the field of A61K8/00, in particular to an anhydrous foundation and a preparation method thereof. The anhydrous foundation preparation raw materials comprise, by mass, 15-30 parts of phase A, 20-40 parts of phase B and 35-50 parts of phase C; phase a includes a colorant and an emollient a; phase B comprises an emulsifier, an emollient B, a thickener and a filler; the C phase preparation raw materials comprise a humectant, a stabilizer and a chelating agent; the humectant comprises a two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate composition, the preparation raw materials almost do not comprise water, and the moisturizing, relieving, anti-wrinkle and exquisite effects can be realized through the combined action of the two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate composition, skin-moistening grease, hyaluronic acid derivatives and the like, and the moisturizing, relieving, anti-wrinkle and exquisite effects are good after use.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to the field of A61K8/00, in particular to an anhydrous foundation and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, the color cosmetics are favored by women loving beauty in China, the market sales of the face color cosmetics are increasingly increased, the foundation can be the most basic product in the face color cosmetics, and the effects of brightening skin color and concealing concealer can be realized after the foundation is used. With the expansion of the market, more and more new cosmetics on the market are continuously emerging, the requirements of cosmetic users on the performance and the efficacy of the cosmetics are more and more severe, the basic effects such as concealing and beautifying are not limited, and obvious requirements on the aspects such as wrinkle resistance, compactness and comfort are also met, so that a foundation capable of achieving multiple effects is needed. The preparation raw materials of the foundation in the market at present mainly comprise water, so that the viscosity of the product is reduced, and the heavy feel of the product after being used is reduced. However, if the moisture content is too high, the moisture-preserving effect of the foundation is affected to a certain extent, the water-locking and moisturizing performances of the foundation after the foundation is used are poor, in addition, the existing foundation preparation raw materials generally comprise a certain amount of moisturizing grease to improve the active effect of the product, and if the water content of the preparation system is controlled improperly, the oil phase solubility of the raw materials is reduced instead.
The prior art CN105168023B discloses an aqueous foundation as long as the preparation raw materials include: ionized water, glycerol, methyl glucoside stearate; polyoxyethylene (20) methyl glucoside stearate; 2-octyldodecanol; polyethylene glycol; polyvinyl pyrrolidone, solid filler, preservative and the like, the water-based foundation is convenient to make up, easy to paint, good in skin feel and easy to remove, but the content of ionized water is more, and the moisture retention performance of the water-based foundation is relatively poor; the prior art CN115154367 discloses a transparent powder cake, the preparation raw materials of which do not include water, the powder cake is simple to prepare and is suitable for pre-make use, but the cosmetic effects of the powder cake, including anti-wrinkle, tightening, relieving and the like, are not reflected.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the first aspect of the invention provides an anhydrous foundation, which comprises, by mass, 15-30 parts of phase A, 20-40 parts of phase B and 35-50 parts of phase C; the phase A comprises a colorant and an emollient A; the phase B comprises an emulsifying agent, an emollient B, a thickening agent and a filler; the C phase preparation raw materials comprise a humectant, a stabilizer and a chelating agent; the humectant comprises a filtrate composition of a fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae.
Preferably, the colorant comprises: colorant A, colorant B, colorant C, colorant D.
Preferably, the colorant A, the colorant B, the colorant C and the colorant D are all inorganic filler and organosiloxane compound.
Preferably, the inorganic filler comprises: cl 77891,Cl 77492,Cl 77491,Cl 77499,Cl 74160,Cl 77269,Cl42090, aluminum hydroxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium hydroxide.
Further preferably, the inorganic filler includes: cl 77891,Cl 77492,Cl 77491,Cl 77499, aluminum hydroxide.
Preferably, the organosiloxane comprises: triethoxy octyl silane.
Preferably, said emollient a comprises: one or more of cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Preferably, the emulsifier comprises: polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, polysorbate-60, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, sorbitan stearate, glycerol stearate/PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, polyoxyethylene (20 EO) methyl glucoside sesquioleate, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, cetostearyl alcohol, polyglycerol-10 laurate.
Further preferably, the emulsifier comprises: one or more of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, sorbitan sesquioleate.
Preferably, said emollient B comprises: one or more of cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Preferably, the thickener comprises: xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, squalane, polysorbate-60, distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite, sodium polyacryldimethyl taurate, carrageenan (CHONDRUS CRISPUS), sodium alginate.
Preferably, the filler comprises polymethylsilsesquioxane.
Preferably, the humectant comprises: 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone.
Preferably, the moisturizer further comprises a trace moisture-preserving component.
Further preferably, the trace moisture-preserving component includes: 1, 2-hexanediol, xanthan gum, butylene glycol, octylglycol, glucose, hyaluronic acid derivatives, extracts of Chondrus CRISPUS (CHONDRUS CRISPUS) or their formulations.
Further preferably, the trace moisture-preserving component includes: hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid derivatives.
Further preferably, the hyaluronic acid derivative includes: sodium hyaluronate, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronate, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate.
Further preferably, the filtrate composition of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae accounts for 70-90% of the mass of the humectant.
Further preferably, the composition of the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae comprises the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae, an alcohol solvent and p-hydroxyacetophenone.
Further preferably, the trace moisture-preserving component accounts for 0.01-2% of the mass of the humectant.
Preferably, the stabilizer comprises: magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, disteardimonium hectorite, fumed silica.
Preferably, the chelating agent is an organic chelating agent.
Further preferably, the organic chelating agent comprises EDTA-2Na.
The second aspect of the invention provides a preparation method of an anhydrous foundation, which at least comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing the mixture by a three-roller grinder;
s2, mixing the raw materials of the phase B, heating at 80-90 ℃, stirring at 6000-8000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
s3, adding the phase A into the phase B, heating at 80-90 ℃, stirring at 500-2000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly to obtain a mixed phase;
s4, mixing the C-phase raw materials, heating at 80-90 ℃, and stirring at 500-2000rpm to dissolve uniformly;
s5, maintaining the temperature, adding the phase C into the mixed phase, emulsifying and homogenizing at 6000-8000rpm until the mixed phase is uniform and fine;
s6, cooling to 50-60 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the product.
Advantageous effects
In the invention, the selected fermentation product filtrate composition of the two-split yeast contains a large amount of vitamins such as vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B3, amino acid and other small molecules beneficial to skin care, has the effects of nourishing and moisturizing, can endow skin with multiple nutritional ingredients, and has more excellent moisturizing and moisturizing effects compared with the foundation with a water system.
The moisturizing agent in the preparation raw materials of the invention almost comprises water, but adopts the yeast fermentation product composition and the like as the moisturizing agent raw materials, and is compounded with moisturizing emollient oil and hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate derivatives and the like, so that the moisturizing agent can nourish skin deeply from inside to outside after being used, and the anhydrous foundation has the effects of resisting wrinkles, tightening and relieving.
In the invention, the preparation system is an anhydrous system, and the humectant is mostly organic micromolecules, so that the humectant has high solubility on skin-moistening grease in the emollient, thereby being beneficial to improving the stability of the anhydrous foundation preparation system, and active efficacy components in the preparation raw materials are not easy to separate out or denature, and have better long-acting beauty efficacy.
The anhydrous foundation disclosed by the invention not only has the effects of water locking, moisturizing and nourishing, but also has certain anti-wrinkle and tightening effects through the inhibition effect on elastase; the effect of relieving can be realized by inhibiting the hyaluronidase, and the foundation has more effects of making up, maintaining beauty and nourishing skin compared with the foundation of a water-free system on the market.
And (V) in the invention, the specific thickening agent and the coloring agent are selected for distribution, wherein the coloring agent comprises inorganic filler and organic siloxane for compounding, so that the dispersion uniformity of raw materials can be further improved, the stability of the product can be improved, the use of preservatives, antioxidants and the like is avoided, the irritation of the product is reduced, in addition, the anhydrous foundation can be ensured to have good fit to skin after being used, and the anhydrous foundation has the effects of long-acting moisturizing, wrinkle resistance, tightening and relieving, and is safe and free of irritation.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of the moisture retention test for the product prepared in example 1 and the positive control.
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the results of anti-wrinkle and tightening efficacy tests of the product prepared in example 1.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the results of the soothing efficacy test for the product prepared in example 1.
Detailed Description
Example 1
The first aspect of the embodiment provides an anhydrous foundation, wherein the preparation raw materials of the anhydrous foundation are 25.5 parts of phase A in parts by weight; 27.75 parts of phase B; 46.75 parts of phase C.
The phase A specifically comprises 12.5 parts of colorant and 15 parts of emollient A.
The colorant comprises 9.5 parts of colorant A,0.6 part of colorant B,0.28 part of colorant C and 0.12 part of colorant D; the colorant A is CI 77891 (model: TI02 CR50 ASM, manufacturer: songshan), aluminum hydroxide and triethoxy octyl silane, and the mass ratio of the three is 95:3:2; the colorant B is CI 77492 (model UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the colorant B to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 98:2; the colorant C is CI 77491 (model: UNIPURE RED LC389 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the two is 98:2; the colorant D is CI 77499 (model: UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC990 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the colorant D to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 98:2; the emollient A is cyclopentadimethicone and cyclohexasiloxane, and the mass ratio of the cyclopentadimethicone to the cyclohexasiloxane is 1:1.
the phase B specifically comprises 3.7 parts of emulsifier, 21.75 parts of emollient B,0.8 part of thickener and 1.5 parts of filler; the emulsifier is sorbitan sesquioleate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane (model: silube T308-16-TT, manufacturer: CHT), and the mass ratio of the sorbitan sesquioleate to the PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is 5:20:12; the emollient B comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 4.25 parts of butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, 3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.5 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 5 parts of phenyl trimethicone, 3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer compound (model: SF-600B, manufacturer: tamei); the thickener is disteardimonium hectorite; the filler is polymethylsilsesquioxane.
The phase C comprises the following components in parts by mass: 45.7 parts of humectant, 1 part of stabilizer and 0.05 part of chelating agent.
The humectant comprises 34.6 parts of a filtrate composition of a fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of 1, 3-propanediol, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.1 part of trace moisture-preserving component in parts by mass; the filtrate composition of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae is specifically a filtrate of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae (model: BIFIDA FERMENT FILTRATE (III), manufacturer: bronsted), 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and the mass ratio of the two is 99.1:0.5:0.4; the trace moisture-preserving component comprises the following components: water, 1, 2-hexanediol, xanthan gum, butylene glycol, octylene glycol, glucose, sodium hyaluronate, extracts of carrageenan (CHONDRUS CRISPUS), hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate complex (model MOISTSHIELD HA, manufacturer: INTERCARE); the stabilizer is magnesium sulfate, and the chelating agent is ETDA-2Na.
The second aspect of the present embodiment provides a preparation method of an anhydrous foundation, which specifically includes the following steps:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing the mixture by a three-roller grinder;
s2, mixing the raw materials of the phase B, heating at 80 ℃, stirring at 6000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
s3, adding the phase A into the phase B, heating at 80 ℃, stirring at 500rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly to obtain a mixed phase;
s4, mixing the C-phase raw materials, heating at 80 ℃, and stirring and dissolving uniformly at 500 rpm.
S5, maintaining the temperature at 80 ℃, adding the phase C into the mixed phase, and emulsifying and homogenizing at 6000rpm until the mixed phase is uniform and fine;
s6, cooling to 50 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the product.
The results of the moisturizing performance test of the product prepared in this example and the positive control are shown in fig. 1.
The anti-wrinkle and tightening efficacy test results of the product prepared in this example are shown in FIG. 2.
The results of the soothing efficacy test of the product prepared in this example are shown in FIG. 3.
Example 2
The first aspect of the embodiment provides an anhydrous foundation, wherein the preparation raw materials of the anhydrous foundation are 25.75 parts of phase A in parts by weight; 30.75 parts of phase B; 50.5 parts of phase C.
The phase A specifically comprises 10.75 parts of colorant and 15 parts of emollient A.
The colorant comprises 9 parts of colorant A,0.75 part of colorant B,0.78 part of colorant C and 0.22 part of colorant D; the colorant A is CI 77891 (model: TI02 CR50 ASM, manufacturer: songshan), aluminum hydroxide and triethoxy octyl silane, and the mass ratio of the three is 96:2:2; the colorant B is CI 77492 (model UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the colorant B to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 97:3, a step of; the colorant C is CI 77491 (model: UNIPURE RED LC389 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the two is 96:4, a step of; the colorant D is CI 77499 (model: UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC990 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the two is 99:1, a step of; the emollient A is cyclopentadimethicone and cyclohexasiloxane, and the mass ratio of the cyclopentadimethicone to the cyclohexasiloxane is 3:1.
the phase B specifically comprises 5 parts of emulsifier, 23.75 parts of emollient B,1 part of thickener and 1 part of filler; the emulsifier is sorbitan sesquioleate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane (model: silube T308-16-TT, manufacturer: CHT), and the mass ratio of the sorbitan sesquioleate to the PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is 2:5:3, a step of; the emollient B comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 4.25 parts of butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, 3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.5 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 5 parts of phenyl trimethicone, 3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer compound (model: SF-600B, manufacturer: tamei); the thickener is disteardimonium hectorite; the filler is polymethylsilsesquioxane.
The phase C comprises the following components in parts by mass: 50 parts of humectant, 0.4 part of stabilizer and 0.1 part of chelating agent.
The humectant comprises 40.6 parts of a filtrate composition of a fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae, 5 parts of glycerol, 4 parts of 1, 3-propanediol, 0.21 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.19 part of trace moisture-preserving component in parts by mass; the filtrate composition of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae is specifically a filtrate of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae (model: BIFIDA FERMENT FILTRATE (III), manufacturer: bronsted), 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and the mass ratio of the two is 99:0.5:0.5; the trace moisture-preserving component comprises the following components: water, 1, 2-hexanediol, xanthan gum, butylene glycol, octylene glycol, glucose, sodium hyaluronate, extracts of carrageenan (CHONDRUS CRISPUS), hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate complex (model MOISTSHIELD HA, manufacturer: INTERCARE); the stabilizer is magnesium sulfate, and the chelating agent is ETDA-2Na.
The second aspect of the present embodiment provides a preparation method of an anhydrous foundation, which specifically includes the following steps:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing the mixture by a three-roller grinder;
s2, mixing the raw materials of the phase B, heating at 80 ℃, stirring at 6000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
s3, adding the phase A into the phase B, heating at 80 ℃, stirring at 500rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly to obtain a mixed phase;
s4, mixing the C-phase raw materials, heating at 80 ℃, and stirring and dissolving uniformly at 500 rpm.
S5, maintaining the temperature at 80 ℃, adding the phase C into the mixed phase, and emulsifying and homogenizing at 6000rpm until the mixed phase is uniform and fine;
s6, cooling to 50 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the product.
Example 3
The first aspect of the embodiment provides an anhydrous foundation, wherein the preparation raw materials of the anhydrous foundation are 22.5 parts of phase A in parts by weight; 23.75 parts of phase B; 40.75 parts of phase C.
The phase A comprises 10 parts of colorant and 12.5 parts of emollient A.
The colorant comprises 8.8 parts of colorant A,0.5 part of colorant B,0.48 part of colorant C and 0.22 part of colorant D; the colorant A is CI 77891 (model: TI02 CR50 ASM, manufacturer: songshan), aluminum hydroxide and triethoxy octyl silane, and the mass ratio of the three is 98:1:1, a step of; the colorant B is CI 77492 (model UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the colorant B to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 98:2; the colorant C is CI 77491 (model: UNIPURE RED LC389 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the two is 98:2; the colorant D is CI 77499 (model: UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC990 AS, manufacturer: senxin) and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the colorant D to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 98:2; the emollient A is cyclopentadimethicone and cyclohexasiloxane, and the mass ratio of the cyclopentadimethicone to the cyclohexasiloxane is 3:2.
the phase B specifically comprises 2.7 parts of emulsifier, 18.75 parts of emollient B,0.8 part of thickener and 1.5 parts of filler; the emulsifier is sorbitan sesquioleate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane (model: silube T308-16-TT, manufacturer: CHT), and the mass ratio of the sorbitan sesquioleate to the PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is 2:5:3, a step of; the emollient B comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 4.25 parts of butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, 3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.5 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 4 parts of phenyl trimethicone, 4 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer compound (model: SF-600B, manufacturer: tamei); the thickener is disteardimonium hectorite; the filler is polymethylsilsesquioxane.
The phase C comprises the following components in parts by mass: 39 parts of humectant, 1.6 parts of stabilizer and 0.05 part of chelating agent.
The humectant comprises, by mass, 32.4 parts of a filtrate composition of a fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae, 3 parts of glycerol, 3 parts of 1, 3-propanediol, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.1 part of a trace moisture-preserving component; the filtrate composition of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae is specifically a filtrate of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae (model: BIFIDA FERMENT FILTRATE (III), manufacturer: bronsted), 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and the mass ratio of the two is 99.1:0.5:0.4; the trace moisture-preserving component comprises the following components: water, 1, 2-hexanediol, xanthan gum, butylene glycol, octylene glycol, glucose, sodium hyaluronate, extracts of carrageenan (CHONDRUS CRISPUS), hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate complex (model MOISTSHIELD HA, manufacturer: INTERCARE); the stabilizer is magnesium sulfate, and the chelating agent is ETDA-2Na.
The second aspect of the present embodiment provides a preparation method of an anhydrous foundation, which specifically includes the following steps:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing the mixture by a three-roller grinder;
s2, mixing the raw materials of the phase B, heating at 90 ℃, stirring at 8000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
s3, adding the phase A into the phase B, heating at 90 ℃, stirring at 2000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly to obtain a mixed phase;
s4, mixing the C-phase raw materials, heating at 90 ℃, and stirring and dissolving uniformly at 2000 rpm.
S5, maintaining the temperature at 90 ℃, adding the phase C into the mixed phase, and emulsifying and homogenizing at 6000rpm until the mixed phase is uniform and fine;
s6, cooling to 60 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the product.
Comparative example 1
The specific embodiment of this comparative example is the same as example 1 except that the starting material prepared in this comparative example does not include a split yeast fermentation product filtrate composition.
Comparative example 2
The embodiment of this comparative example is the same as example 1 except that the preparation raw material in this comparative example does not include a trace amount of a moisturizing component.
Comparative example 3
The embodiment of this comparative example is the same as example 1 except that the starting materials for the preparation in this comparative example do not include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate.
Comparative example 4
The specific embodiment of this comparative example is the same as example 1 except that the starting materials for the preparation in this comparative example do not include diisostearyl malate.
Performance testing
Test 1: moisture retention performance test
Purpose and principle of the test: skin moisturization is the most basic function of skin care cosmetics and skin care products. Only if the skin moisturizing work is done, the normal physiological functions of the skin can be normally performed, the stratum corneum can play a normal barrier function, and the moisturizing product is used for improving the skin health and keeping the skin moisture. An ideal moisturizing product should have a sustained moisturizing ability. According to the test method, the moisture weight change of the test sample is continuously monitored, so that the skin moisturizing effect of the test sample is evaluated.
Test object: example 1, the products obtained in comparative examples 1-4; positive control: glycerol, polyethylene glycol.
The testing method comprises the following steps: the glass plate with 3cm rubberized fabric attached thereto was weighed by an analytical balance (M 0 ) The samples were spread uniformly with a glass rod on a glass plate with 3cm rubberized fabric for accurate recording (M 1 ) The samples and the positive control were placed in a constant temperature and humidity drying apparatus at 25℃and 40% humidity for time measurement, and the glass plate was taken out to weigh the mass (M 2 ) Data were recorded and a change map was drawn, and the test results are shown in fig. 1.
TABLE 1
Test 2: anti-wrinkle tightening efficacy test
Purpose and principle of the test: elastase has the ability to degrade various proteins such as collagen and elastin. Changes in elastin structure upon skin aging are one of the important causes of wrinkles and skin sagging. Research shows that the elastase can inhibit elastin from decomposing, and has the functions of tightening and resisting wrinkles, and the elastase can inhibit the activity of elastase in organisms, so that the elastase can be applied to the cosmetic industry and other industries. Whether the test sample has anti-wrinkle and tightening effects is judged by utilizing the elastase inhibition rate. The higher the inhibition rate of elastase with the increase of the concentration of the test sample solution, the more effective the inhibition of elastase activity, and the slower the degradation rate of elastin, so the test sample has the effects of reducing wrinkles and tightening skin.
Test object: the product obtained in example 1
The testing method comprises the following steps: sample pretreatment, preparing sample liquid into sample liquid tubes, respectively adding lichen red elastin and borate buffer solution, oscillating each tube at constant temperature in water bath of 37deg.C for 10min, respectively adding elastase solution, measuring absorbance at 495nm to calculate elastase inhibition rate, and testing the results shown in Table 2
TABLE 2
Test object: the products obtained in comparative examples 1 to 4
The testing method comprises the following steps: sample pretreatment, preparing sample liquid into sample liquid tubes, respectively adding lichen red elastin and borate buffer solution, oscillating each tube at constant temperature in water bath of 37deg.C for 10min, respectively adding elastase solution, measuring absorbance at 495nm to calculate elastase inhibition rate, and testing the results shown in Table 3
TABLE 3 Table 3
Test 3, test of relief efficacy
Purpose and principle of the test: hyaluronidase is a hydrolase of hyaluronic acid, and has close connection with inflammation and allergy, and plays a corresponding role in anti-allergy. Studies show that some antiallergic drugs have strong inhibition of hyaluronidase activity, and therefore, the inhibition of hyaluronidase activity can be used as an index of antiallergic action. Whether the test sample has a soothing effect is judged by using the hyaluronidase inhibition rate. As the test sample has a higher hyaluronidase inhibition rate, the test sample has a better soothing effect.
Test object: the product obtained in example 1
The testing method comprises the following steps: sample pretreatment, namely preparing a plurality of concentrations of sample liquid into a plurality of concentrations of sample liquid tubes, respectively adding a hyaluronidase solution with proper concentration and a sodium hyaluronate solution into each tube, sufficiently oscillating, adding absolute ethyl alcohol, standing at room temperature for 30min, and measuring the absorbance value at 530nm to calculate the hyaluronidase inhibition rate. The test results are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4 Table 4
Test object: the products obtained in comparative examples 1 to 4
The testing method comprises the following steps: sample pretreatment, namely preparing a plurality of concentrations of sample liquid into a plurality of concentrations of sample liquid tubes, respectively adding a hyaluronidase solution with proper concentration and a sodium hyaluronate solution into each tube, sufficiently oscillating, adding absolute ethyl alcohol, standing at room temperature for 30min, and measuring the absorbance value at 530nm to calculate the hyaluronidase inhibition rate. The test results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5
Claims (10)
1. The anhydrous foundation is characterized by comprising the following preparation raw materials in parts by weight: 15-30 parts of phase A, 20-40 parts of phase B and 35-50 parts of phase C; the phase A comprises a colorant and an emollient A; the phase B comprises an emulsifying agent, an emollient B, a thickening agent and a filler; the C phase comprises a humectant, a stabilizer and a chelating agent; the humectant comprises a filtrate composition of a fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae.
2. The anhydrous foundation of claim 1, wherein the colorant comprises: colorant A, colorant B, colorant C, colorant D; the colorant A, the colorant B, the colorant C and the colorant D are inorganic filler and organosiloxane compound.
3. The anhydrous foundation of claim 2, wherein the inorganic filler comprises: cl 77891,Cl 77492,Cl 77491,Cl 77499,Cl 74160,Cl 77269,Cl42090, aluminum hydroxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium hydroxide.
4. The anhydrous foundation of claim 1 wherein said emollient a comprises: one or more of cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
5. The anhydrous foundation of claim 1, wherein the organosiloxane comprises: triethoxy octyl silane.
6. The anhydrous foundation of claim 1 wherein said emollient B comprises: one or more of cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phenyl trimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
7. The anhydrous foundation of claim 1, wherein the moisturizer further comprises a trace moisture component.
8. The anhydrous foundation of claim 7, wherein said micro moisturizing composition comprises: 1, 2-hexanediol, xanthan gum, butylene glycol, octylglycol, glucose, hyaluronic acid derivatives, carrageenan extract or its complex.
9. The anhydrous foundation of claim 8, wherein the hyaluronic acid derivative comprises: sodium hyaluronate, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronate, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate.
10. A method of preparing an anhydrous foundation according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising the steps of:
s1, mixing the phase A raw materials, and uniformly dispersing the mixture by a three-roller grinder;
s2, mixing the raw materials of the phase B, heating at 80-90 ℃, stirring at 6000-8000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
s3, adding the phase A into the phase B, heating at 80-90 ℃, stirring at 500-2000rpm, homogenizing and dispersing uniformly to obtain a mixed phase;
s4, mixing the C-phase raw materials, heating at 80-90 ℃, and stirring at 500-2000rpm to dissolve uniformly;
s5, maintaining the temperature, adding the phase C into the mixed phase, emulsifying and homogenizing at 6000-8000rpm until the mixed phase is uniform and fine;
s6, cooling to 50-60 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the product.
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