CN117618264A - Photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and cosmetic using same - Google Patents
Photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and cosmetic using same Download PDFInfo
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- CN117618264A CN117618264A CN202311816392.4A CN202311816392A CN117618264A CN 117618264 A CN117618264 A CN 117618264A CN 202311816392 A CN202311816392 A CN 202311816392A CN 117618264 A CN117618264 A CN 117618264A
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
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- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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Abstract
The invention provides a photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and a cosmetic using the same. The composition provided by the invention comprises the following components in parts by mass: bisabolol: 0.1 to 0.5 part; alfalfa extract: 0.1 to 0.45 part; extract of flos Wallichii: 0.1 to 0.45 part; glucosyl rutin: 0.01 to 0.05 part. The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention combines glucosyl rutin, bisabolol, alfalfa extract and flos hedyotis extract, and the active ingredients complement each other and synergistically enhance each other, so that the synergistic sun-screening agent not only can improve sun-screening capability of sun-screening products, remarkably improve SPF value and PFA value, but also can resist blue light, remove free radicals, reduce damage of oxidative stress to skin and delay skin aging process. The four components are all plant sources, are convenient to obtain, and have high safety and no stimulation in combined use.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and a cosmetic using the same.
Background
With the popularization of skin cancer caused by ultraviolet rays and the concepts of sun protection, namely, aging prevention, the global sun protection product demand is increasing year by year. The sun-screening product is a kind of cosmetics which can protect the skin from ultraviolet rays by adding a sun-screening agent into the cosmetics and utilizing the principle of reflection, scattering or absorption of ultraviolet rays by the sun-screening agent. Sunscreens are generally classified into two major classes, chemical sunscreens and physical sunscreens, depending on the mechanism by which they are protected against ultraviolet light. In the cosmetic field, there are many restrictions on the application of sun-screening raw materials due to safety, and it is difficult for a single sun-screening agent to achieve a good protection effect, and generally, various sun-screening agents are compounded to achieve a higher sun-screening index and achieve effective sun screening.
Chinese plants are rich in resources, and besides the ultraviolet and blue light absorption characteristics, the plant-derived components also have the effects of anti-inflammatory, antioxidation, ultraviolet injury repair and the like. For example, many plants contain pigments such as flavonoids, anthocyanins, carotenoids, etc., which absorb ultraviolet light and reduce the damage of ultraviolet light to the skin. These pigments can absorb ultraviolet rays of specific wavelengths, convert them into thermal energy or non-lethal optical energy, and thus reduce direct damage of ultraviolet rays to skin cells. Some active substances in plants have antioxidant effect, such as polyphenols, vitamin C, vitamin E, etc. The ultraviolet radiation can generate a large amount of free radicals to cause oxidative damage to skin cells, and the antioxidant substances can neutralize the free radicals and reduce the oxidative damage, thereby protecting the skin from the ultraviolet rays. In addition, some plant active substances have anti-inflammatory effects, such as aloe, green tea, licorice, etc., which can alleviate inflammatory response caused by ultraviolet rays and relieve skin discomfort. Some plant active substances have skin injury repairing effect, such as polysaccharides in aloe and enzymes in Mel. They can promote regeneration and repair of skin cells and accelerate the recovery process of damaged skin. No intensive studies on the sun protection and synergy of these plant-derived components have been made, and only the theoretical exploration phase remains.
The UVA wave band is a part of ultraviolet wavelength division, the wavelength range is 320-420 nm, also called long wave black spot effect ultraviolet, and has strong penetrating power, and UVA can directly reach the dermis layer of skin to destroy elastic fibers and collagen fibers and tan the skin. The UVB wave band has a wavelength range of 280-320 nm, also called ultraviolet rays with medium erythema effect, has medium penetrability, the shorter wavelength part of the ultraviolet rays can be absorbed by transparent glass, most of the medium ultraviolet rays contained in sunlight are absorbed by ozone layer, only less than 2% of the ultraviolet rays can reach the surface of the earth, and the ultraviolet rays can be particularly strong in summer and afternoon. UVB ultraviolet rays have erythema effect on human bodies, and long-term exposure can cause skin erythema and desquamation, and skin sunburn. Blue light wave band, the wavelength range is 400-500 nm, is a high-frequency and high-energy visible light, and many electronic products such as LED technology can generate artificial blue light. The blue light can directly reach dermis and subcutaneous tissue of skin, so that cells are changed, fibroblast growth is inhibited, extracellular matrix is reduced, photoaging is caused, the oxidative stress rate of skin is increased, and hyperpigmentation is caused.
Under the influence of regulations in various areas and in view of the ultraviolet absorbing capacity, the water-repellent capacity and the compatibility in the sunscreen formulation, only a part of the theoretically usable sunscreens are actually added to the sunscreen product. To achieve higher SPF values, multiple sunscreens are often required in combination, and the addition of excessive sunscreens can result in a heavy, greasy skin feel and also in risk of allergy. Although all uv filters have been extensively tested to ensure their inherent safety for topical application; however, certain sensitive people may still be allergic to certain types of uv filters.
Therefore, a mild and non-irritating photoprotection sun-screening synergistic component is still lacking at present, and the sun-screening force is improved, and meanwhile, the daily blue light damage can be resisted.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and a cosmetic using the same, wherein the photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention has synergistic effects of ultraviolet and blue light protection, anti-inflammation and antioxidation, is safe and non-irritating, can be applied to sun-screening products, can improve sun-screening capability of the products, and finally achieves the effect of relieving skin photoaging.
The invention provides a photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition which comprises the following components in parts by mass:
bisabolol: 0.1 to 0.5 part;
alfalfa extract: 0.1 to 0.45 part;
extract of flos Wallichii: 0.1 to 0.45 part;
glucosyl rutin: 0.01 to 0.05 part.
The photoprotection sun-proof synergistic composition provided by the invention has the advantages that the photoprotection is ultraviolet resistance and blue light, and photodamage repair can be carried out; the sun protection synergy finger can significantly improve SPF and PFA values. The photoprotection, sunscreening and synergy of the invention comprises at least one of the following functions: protection against ultraviolet light, protection against blue light, photodamage repair, and improvement of sun protection SPF and/or PFA values. Specifically, the photoprotection, sunscreening and synergy include at least one of the following functions: scavenging DPPH free radical, inhibiting the expression of inflammatory factor IL-6, and improving the activity of human immortalized keratinocyte after photodamage. The inventor creatively discovers that glucosyl rutin, bisabolol, alfalfa extract and flos polygoni multiflori extract are combined for use, and the active ingredients complement each other and synergistically increase each other, so that the synergistic sun-screening agent not only can improve sun-screening capability of sun-screening products, but also can obviously improve SPF value and ultraviolet value, and can resist blue light and ultraviolet, remove free radicals, reduce damage of oxidative stress to skin and delay skin aging process. The four components are all plant sources, are convenient to obtain, and have high safety and no stimulation in combined use.
The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention comprises 0.1-0.5 part of bisabolol, preferably 0.3-0.5 part. The bisabolol contains 0.1-1wt% of ginger extract; in certain embodiments of the present invention, the bisabolol comprises 99 to 99.9wt% bisabolol and 0.1 to 1wt% ginger extract. In one embodiment of the present invention, the bisabolol preferably comprises 99.5wt% bisabolol and 0.5wt% ginger extract. Bisabolol is a sesquiterpene compound naturally present in roman chamomile, and has anti-inflammatory effect, and can reduce inflammatory reaction, and relieve red swelling and pain; also has skin whitening effect, and can inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin formation.
The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention comprises 0.1-0.45 part of alfalfa extract, preferably 0.3-0.45 part. The mass percentage of the alfalfa extract is 4-6wt%. In certain embodiments of the invention, the alfalfa extract is present at a mass percent of 5%. The preparation raw materials of the alfalfa extract comprise 4-6wt% of alfalfa extract, 45-55wt% of butanediol and 39-51wt% of water. The herba Medicaginis extract is whole plant extract of herba Medicaginis of Leguminosae, and contains various active ingredients including isoflavone compounds (such as medicagin), flavonoid compounds, polysaccharide, protein, amino acids, etc.; the skin care cream has antioxidant capacity, can help to neutralize free radicals, reduce the damage of oxidative stress to skin and delay the skin aging process; has antiinflammatory effect, and can relieve skin inflammatory reaction, and sensitive and red swelling; also has moisturizing effect, and can increase moisture content of skin, and improve dry and rough skin.
The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention comprises 0.1-0.45 part of extract of flos verrucae, preferably 0.3-0.45 part. The mass percentage of the extract of the flos mori is 10-15 wt%. In certain embodiments of the invention, the mass percentage of the extract of the flower of the spring flower is 12%. The preparation raw materials of the extract of the flos mori comprise 10-15 wt% of the extract of the flos mori and 85-90 wt% of 1, 3-propanediol. The extract of the flos mori is a natural active raw material extracted from the flos mori, and the flos mori is rich in lignans, so that the skin injury caused by ultraviolet rays can be effectively repaired, the reactivity of skin cells and blood vessels can be reduced, the skin structure and erythema can be improved, and the ultraviolet ray injury can be relieved.
The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention comprises 0.01-0.05 part of glucosyl rutin, and preferably comprises 0.03-0.05 part. The glucosyl rutin according to the present invention is preferably glucosyl rutin having a purity of 100 wt%. Glucosyl rutin is mainly contained in plants such as flos Sophorae Immaturus, flos Lonicerae, etc., is an effective antioxidant, can prevent oxidative stress, can remarkably reduce activity of MMPs and collagenase expression in skin after ultraviolet stimulation, and has effects of improving oxidative damage and dermis injury caused by ultraviolet; glucosyl rutin can promote collagen synthesis, increase skin elasticity and compactness, reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and is helpful for delaying skin aging.
The composition provided by the invention has the effects of photoprotection and sun protection synergism, is natural and mild, does not irritate, and can be widely applied to daily skin care products. In one embodiment, the composition preferably comprises the following components: bisabolol: 0.1 part; alfalfa extract: 0.1 part; extract of flos Wallichii: 0.1 part; glucosyl rutin: 0.01 part. In another embodiment, the composition preferably comprises the following components: bisabolol: 0.3 parts; alfalfa extract: 0.3 parts; extract of flos Wallichii: 0.3 parts; glucosyl rutin: 0.03 parts. In another embodiment, the composition preferably comprises the following components: bisabolol: 0.5 parts; alfalfa extract: 0.45 parts; extract of flos Wallichii: 0.45 parts; glucosyl rutin: 0.05 part.
The invention also provides a cosmetic, which comprises the composition and an additive; the composition accounts for 0.31 to 1.45 percent of the weight of the cosmetic. The cosmetic comprises any one of sun protection, essence, emulsion, cream, facial mask or foundation, and is preferably sun protection.
The additives according to the invention are additives known to the person skilled in the art which can be used in cosmetics, such as sunscreens, emulsifiers, emollients, film formers and auxiliary materials which can be used in cosmetics; the sun-screening agent is at least one selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyl oxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, hexyl diethylhydroxybenzoate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, methylenebis-benzotriazole-tetramethyl butylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide; the emulsifier is at least one of lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, glycerol stearate, PEG-100 stearate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, C20-22 alcohol phosphate, C20-22 alcohol, potassium cetyl phosphate, cetostearyl alcohol and decyl glucoside; the emollient is at least one selected from polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, diisopropyl sebacate, isododecane, dioctyl carbonate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl ethyl hexanoate and propylene carbonate; the film forming agent is at least one selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylic acid (ester) or polydimethyl siloxane copolymer.
In certain embodiments of the present invention, adjuvants useful in the cosmetic include, but are not limited to, at least one of sodium chloride, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, disodium EDTA, tocopherol, triethoxyoctylsilane, silica, alumina, distearyldimethylammonium hectorite, arginine, xanthan gum, acrylamide/VP copolymer, p-hydroxyacetophenone, propylene glycol, and the like.
In certain embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic product of the present invention comprises the composition described above and an additive comprising, in parts by mass, 0 to 40 parts of a sunscreen agent, 0 to 5 parts of an emulsifier, 0 to 20 parts of an emollient, 0 to 5 parts of a film former, and adjuvants useful in cosmetics.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic comprises the composition and the additive, wherein the additive comprises 25-35 parts of sun protection agent, 1-2 parts of emulsifying agent, 10-20 parts of emollient, 0.5-2 parts of film forming agent and auxiliary materials available in cosmetics in parts by mass.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic comprises the composition and the additive, wherein the additive comprises 20-30 parts of sun protection agent, 2-4 parts of emulsifying agent, 0-10 parts of emollient and auxiliary materials available in cosmetics in parts by mass.
The cosmetic of the present invention is preferably sun-screening; the composition has remarkable gain effect on the sun-proof formula effect of water-in-oil and oil-in-water, and the sun-proof formula comprises sun-proof agents, emulsifying agents, emollients, film forming agents and auxiliary materials which can be used in cosmetics besides the composition.
In one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic is a water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic comprising the composition of the invention and an additive comprising, in parts by mass: sodium chloride: 0.8 parts; butanediol: 5 parts; 1, 2-hexanediol: 0.6 parts; p-hydroxyacetophenone: 0.5 parts; disodium EDTA: 0.02 parts; PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane: 0.5 parts; lauryl PEG-9 Dimethicone Ethyl Dimethicone and tocopherol (vitamin E): 1 part; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butylated hydroxytoluene: 10 parts; hexyl diethylcarbamoylbenzoate: 4.5 parts; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine: 2 parts; ethylhexyl salicylate: 5 parts; ethylhexyl triazone: 1 part; diisopropyl sebacate: 5 parts; zinc oxide and triethoxyoctylsilane: 7 parts; titanium dioxide, silica, polydimethylsiloxane and alumina: 1 part; polydimethyl siloxane: 10 parts; trimethylsilyloxy silicate and cyclopentadimethicone: 1 part; disteardimonium hectorite, cyclopentadimethicone, and propylene carbonate: 1 part; phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid: 3 parts; arginine: 2 parts.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-in-water sunscreen cosmetic comprising the composition of the present invention and an additive comprising, in parts by mass: butanediol: 5 parts; 1, 2-hexanediol: 0.6 parts; disodium EDTA: 0.02 parts; xanthan gum: 0.2 parts; ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer: 0.15 parts; potassium cetyl phosphate: 1 part; p-hydroxyacetophenone: 0.5 parts; cetostearyl alcohol: 0.6 parts; glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate: 1.2 parts; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butylated hydroxytoluene: 10 parts; ethylhexyl salicylate: 5 parts; ethylhexyl triazone: 1 part; hexyl diethylcarbamoylbenzoate: 4.5 parts; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine: 2 parts; diisopropyl sebacate: 5 parts; methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethyl butyl phenol, water, decyl glucoside, propylene glycol, and xanthan gum: 3 parts.
The water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic is prepared by the following method: heating sodium chloride, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone and EDTA disodium in water to 80 ℃ to obtain a water phase; PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane; lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane and tocopherol (vitamin E); ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and hexyl butylhydroxytoluene, diethylcarbamoylbenzoate; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; ethylhexyl salicylate; ethylhexyl triazone; diisopropyl sebacate; zinc oxide and triethoxy octyl silane; titanium dioxide, silica, polydimethylsiloxane and alumina; polydimethyl siloxane; trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentadimethicone; heating disteardimonium hectorite, cyclopentadimethicone and propylene carbonate to 80deg.C to obtain an oil phase; adding the water phase into the oil phase at 80 ℃, homogenizing until emulsification is complete, starting stirring, cooling to 45 ℃, adding phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, arginine and the composition disclosed by the invention, and homogenizing for 1min to obtain the water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic.
The oil-in-water sun-protection cosmetic is prepared by the following method: heating butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, EDTA disodium, xanthan gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, cetyl alcohol potassium phosphate and p-hydroxyacetophenone in water to 80 ℃ to obtain a water phase; cetostearyl alcohol; glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butylated hydroxytoluene; ethylhexyl salicylate; ethylhexyl triazone; hexyl diethylcarbamoylbenzoate; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; diisopropyl sebacate is heated to 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase; adding the oil phase into the water phase at 80 ℃, homogenizing until emulsification is complete, starting stirring, cooling to 60 ℃, adding methylene bis-benzotriazole tetramethylbutyl phenol, water, decyl glucoside, propylene glycol and xanthan gum, homogenizing for 1min, cooling to 45 ℃, adding the composition disclosed by the invention, and homogenizing for 1min to obtain the oil-in-water sun-screening cosmetic.
The invention provides a photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and a cosmetic using the same. The invention provides a photoprotection sun-proof synergistic composition, which comprises the following components in parts by mass: bisabolol: 0.1 to 0.5 part; alfalfa extract: 0.1 to 0.45 part; extract of flos Wallichii: 0.1 to 0.45 part; glucosyl rutin: 0.01 to 0.05 part. The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition provided by the invention adopts glucosyl rutin, bisabolol, alfalfa extract and flos polygoni multiflori extract, and the active ingredients complement each other and synergistically improve each other, so that the photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition not only can resist ultraviolet and blue light, but also can remove free radicals and reduce the generation of inflammatory factors, and simultaneously can improve the sun-screening capability of sun-screening products, obviously improve the SPF value and the PFA value, and finally achieve the effect of relieving skin photoaging. The components of the composition are all plant sources, the acquisition is convenient, and the composition is high in safety and free of stimulation. In addition, the composition provided by the invention can reduce the dosage of the sun-screening agent in the sun-screening product to a certain extent, so that the sun-screening product is relatively milder and has better skin feel.
Detailed Description
The invention discloses a photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and a cosmetic using the same. Those skilled in the art can, with the benefit of this disclosure, suitably modify the process parameters to achieve this. It is expressly noted that all such similar substitutions and modifications will be apparent to those skilled in the art, and are deemed to be included in the present invention. While the methods and applications of this invention have been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the relevant art that the invention can be practiced and practiced with modification and alteration and combination of the methods and applications herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
The specific conditions in each of the examples and comparative examples of the present invention were not specified, and the examples and comparative examples were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or apparatus used were conventional products commercially available without the manufacturer's attention.
Glucosyl rutin, supplied by the trade company, curting (Guangzhou), is available under the tradename RUTINAGE P; the raw materials comprise the following components in percentage by mass: 100% of glucosyl rutin.
Bisabolol, supplied by deluxe essence perfume (south general) limited under the trade name SymRelief100; the raw materials comprise the following components in percentage by mass: 99 to 99.9 percent of bisabolol and 0.1 to 1 percent of ginger root extract.
Alfalfa extract, supplied by Shanghai Jia Kai biotechnology Co., ltd, under the trade name alfalfa blue (Urbolplay MS); the raw materials comprise the following components in percentage by mass: 4-6% of alfalfa extract, 45-55% of butanediol and 39-51% of water.
Flos Wallichii extract, supplied by Shanghai Jia Kai Biotechnology Co., ltd., under the name Uygur (Solarepole MB); the mass percentage of the extract of the flos mori is 10-15%, and the mass percentage of the 1, 3-propanediol is 85-90%.
The volunteer criteria in the following examples are: (1) a healthy subject; (2) age 18-60 years. The group of people who have the following conditions will not meet the volunteer requirements: (1) Antihistamines used in the last week or immunosuppressants used in the last month; (2) Any anti-inflammatory agent is applied to the tested part in the last two months; (3) a subject suffering from a clinically unhealed inflammatory skin condition; (4) insulin dependent diabetes mellitus patients; (5) Asthma or other chronic respiratory disease patients undergoing treatment; (6) receiving an anti-cancer chemotherapeutic within approximately 6 months; (7) patients with immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; (8) lactating or pregnant women; (9) Bilateral mastectomy and bilateral axillary lymphadenectomy; (10) Judging that the skin to be tested is affected by scars, pigments, atrophy, moles, or other flaws; (11) staff engaged in other clinical trials; (12) highly sensitive body constitution; (13) Non-volunteer participants or those who were unable to complete the prescribed content as required by the trial.
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples:
examples 1 to 3
Compositions of examples 1-3 were prepared according to the formulations shown in table 1:
TABLE 1
The preparation process comprises the following steps:
sequentially weighing the raw materials of the phase A, adding the raw materials of the phase B into a beaker, and fully stirring and dissolving uniformly to obtain the composition.
Comparative examples 1 to 9
Compositions of comparative examples 1 to 9 were prepared according to the formulations shown in Table 2, and the preparation process was the same as that of examples 1 to 3.
TABLE 2
Example 4
(1) Antioxidant test
The compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were tested for DPPH radical scavenging ability. The DPPH radical scavenging ability reflects the antioxidant capacity of the material to some extent. The test method is as follows:
accurately weighing DPPH reagent, and preparing into 0.04mg/mL DPPH solution by absolute ethyl alcohol. Under the condition of avoiding light, DPPH solution and different test objects are taken and added into a 96-well plate, after being fully mixed, the mixture is incubated for 30 minutes at room temperature in the condition of avoiding light, and the absorbance of the mixture is measured at 517nm of an enzyme-labeled instrument. Three groups of sample, blank and control were required for each assay, each group being 3 replicates, with comparative example 9 being the control group, as follows:
sample group: 100. Mu.L of sample solution+100. Mu.L of DPPH solution
Blank group: 100. Mu.L of sample solution+100. Mu.L of absolute ethanol
Control group: 100 mu L absolute ethanol+100 mu L DPPH solution
The clearance to DPPH was calculated according to the following equation 1:
DPPH clearance= [1- (sample-blank)/control ] ×100%; equation 1.
The test results are shown in table 3:
TABLE 3 Table 3
As can be seen from Table 3, examples 1 to 3 have excellent DPPH radical scavenging ability, and compared with comparative examples 1 to 8, it was found that the absence of any 1 component reduced the radical scavenging rate of the composition, which means that the alfalfa extract, glucosyl rutin, bisabolol and the flos verruceae extract in the composition of the present invention complement each other and synergistically act, have good antioxidant effects, can resist free radicals generated by skin under ultraviolet and blue light pressures, can effectively reduce skin photoaging caused by free radicals, and finally have effects of photoprotection and sun protection gain.
(2) Anti-inflammatory test
The effect of the compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 on the secretion of inflammatory factor IL-6 was examined by ELISA using macrophage Ana-1 as a subject. The test method is as follows:
macrophage Ana-1 was seeded at 4000 cells/well in 96-well plates at 37℃in 5% volume fraction CO 2 Culturing in an incubator for 24 hours. The inflammatory reaction was induced by LPS, 1mg/mL LPS solution was diluted to 3. Mu.g/mL, placed in 50. Mu.L/Kong Jiazhi well plate at 37℃with a volume fraction of 5% CO 2 Culturing in an incubator for 4 hours. Diluting the working concentrations of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 to 100. Mu.L/well with complete medium as diluent, adding comparative example 9 to control group, and placing at 37deg.C with a volume fraction of 5% CO 2 Culturing in incubator for 24 hr, detecting IL-6 content by ELISA method, and calculating standard curve regression equation (R (2) according to known concentration of standard substance and measured OD value>0.99 Substituting the OD value of the sample hole into the concentration of the sample to be measured, and multiplying the concentration by the dilution multiple to obtain the actual IL-6 concentration of the original sample.
The inhibition of IL-6 by the sample was calculated by the following equation 2:
inhibition (%) = (1-sample group IL-6 content/control group IL-6 content) ×100%; equation 2.
The test results are shown in table 4:
TABLE 4 Table 4
As is clear from Table 4, examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8 each have a certain inhibitory effect on IL-6, and examples 1 to 3 have a higher inhibitory rate on IL-6 than comparative examples 1 to 8, which indicates that the alfalfa extract, glucosylrutin, bisabolol and hopanax extract in the composition of the present invention can complement each other and synergistically act, and can inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors. The expression level of the transcription factor NF-KB is up-regulated after ultraviolet irradiation, so that the gene expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1B, IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-a is promoted. The composition can inhibit the expression of inflammatory factor IL-6, so that the composition can reduce skin photoaging caused by free radicals to a certain extent, and finally has the effects of photoprotection and sun protection gain.
(3) Photoprotection test
This test example cell viability tests were performed on the compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9. The survival rate of human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCat) after uv and blue light irradiation can reflect the protective effect of substances on uv and blue light to a certain extent. The test method is as follows:
the cell safety test concentration of each raw material was first tested by MTT cytotoxicity. Immortalized keratinocyte cell suspensions were inoculated in 96-well plates at 20000/well density, 100. Mu.L/well, placed at 37℃with a volume fraction of 5% CO 2 Culturing in an incubator for 24 hours. Diluting the groups of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-9 to working concentration with complete medium as diluent, adding to cells at 100 μl/well, respectively, wherein the positive control group and the negative control group are added with comparative example 9, and placing at 37deg.C, CO with volume fraction of 5% 2 Culturing in an incubator for 24 hours. The cells of examples 1 to 3, comparative examples 1 to 8 and positive control were irradiated with UV light for 6min and blue light for 3h, respectively, the negative control was not irradiated, and then placed in an incubator for incubation for 24h, and finally the viability change of the cells was detected by MTT assay. The calculation formula 3 is as follows:
percent cell viability (%) = sample well mean OD value/negative control mean OD value x 100%; equation 3.
The test results are shown in table 5:
TABLE 5
As is clear from Table 5, the cells treated in examples 1 to 3 showed significantly higher activity of human immortalized keratinocytes after irradiation with ultraviolet light and blue light than the positive control group, and were higher than those of comparative examples 1 to 8, which indicates that the alfalfa extract, glucosyl rutin, bisabolol and flower extract in the composition of the present invention complement each other and synergistically act, and can resist damage by ultraviolet light and blue light, and exert photoprotection.
Application example 1
The water-in-oil sunscreen product of application example 1 was prepared according to the formulation shown in table 6:
TABLE 6
The preparation process of the sun protection product of application example 1 is as follows:
1. weighing the components according to the proportion, and grinding titanium dioxide and zinc oxide by using polydimethylsiloxane;
2. sequentially adding the phase A raw materials into a water phase emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a water phase;
3. sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into an oil phase emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain an oil phase;
4. slowly adding the water phase into the oil phase at 80deg.C, slowly stirring while adding, homogenizing at high speed until emulsification is complete, and cooling and slowly stirring.
5. Cooling to 45 ℃, adding the raw materials of the C phase and the D phase, homogenizing for 1min, stirring until the temperature is reduced to room temperature, and discharging.
Comparative example 1 was used
The water-in-oil sunscreen product of application comparative example 1 was prepared according to the formulation shown in table 7, and the preparation process was the same as that of application example 1:
TABLE 7
Application example 2
The oil-in-water sunscreen product of application example 2 was prepared according to the formulation shown in table 8:
TABLE 8
The preparation process of the sunscreen product of application example 2 was as follows:
1. sequentially adding the phase A raw materials into a water phase emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dissolving to obtain a water phase;
2. sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into an oil phase emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain an oil phase;
3. slowly adding the oil phase into the water phase at 80 ℃, slowly stirring while feeding, homogenizing at high speed until emulsification is complete, starting to cool and slowly stirring;
4. cooling to 60deg.C, adding phase C material, and homogenizing for 1min;
5. cooling to 45 ℃, adding the raw materials of the C phase and the D phase, homogenizing for 1min, stirring until the temperature is reduced to room temperature, and discharging.
Comparative example 2 was used
The oil-in-water sun protection product of application comparative example 2 was prepared according to the formulation shown in table 9, the preparation process being the same as application example 2:
TABLE 9
Example 5
(1) SPF value test
The human body SPF value test was performed on the sunscreen products prepared in application examples 1 to 2 and application comparative examples 1 to 2. The test method is as follows:
1. materials and methods
1. The object to be measured: the sunscreen products prepared in application examples 1 to 2 and application comparative examples 1 to 2.
2. Control: SPF value 16.1+ -2.4, according to the standard formulation of the medium and high SPF standard (P2) of cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition).
3. The subject: total 5, men 2, women 3, ages 24 to 42, met the subject's volunteer inclusion criteria.
4. Light source: the xenon arc lamp of the sunlight simulator meets the measurement specification requirements in each performance index.
5. The inspection method comprises the following steps:
the test is performed according to the specific requirements of the current effective technical specifications. The subject takes the prone position and irradiates his back. The minimum erythema dose (MED value) of the subject's skin to ultraviolet irradiation was predicted 24 hours before the test, and the ultraviolet irradiation dose was adjusted based on the prediction result, for testing the test object.
On the day of testing, first, a test subject was selected for a time of not less than 30cm on his back 2 Is 2.00 + -0.05 mg/cm 2 Uniformly coating the object to be detected or the reference substance in the area, selecting the irradiation dose according to the standard requirement, and irradiating in three conditions: (1) the skin of the subject is not coated with the test object; (2) coating a reference substance; (3) coating the measured object. After 24 hours, the experimental results were observed and MED values were recorded for the three cases, respectively.
SPF value calculation method:
the SPF value of a test or control to protect a single subject is expressed by the following equation 4:
SPF = MED value of protected skin/MED value of unprotected skin; equation 4.
The SPF value of the individual is required to be accurate to one digit after the decimal point, the arithmetic mean of the SPF values of all the tested objects protected by the tested objects is calculated, and the integer part of the arithmetic mean is taken as the SPF value of the tested sample. The sampling error of the estimated mean may calculate the standard deviation and standard error for the set of data. The 95% confidence interval (95% ci) of the mean is required to be no more than 17% of the mean, otherwise the number of subjects should be increased (no more than 25) until the above requirement is met.
7. The test results are shown in table 10:
table 10
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a specific numerical value representing the UVB capability of the product for defending medium wave ultraviolet rays, and is a protective index for evaluating the capability of a sun-screening cosmetic for protecting skin from occurrence of sunburn erythema/sunburn, and is called sun protection factor. The greater the SPF value, the better the sun-block erythema/sunburn effect. As can be seen from the human test data in table 10, the SPF average values of the sunscreens of the application example 1 and the application example 2 are respectively greater than those of the application comparative example 1 and the application comparative example 2, which shows that the SPF value of the sunscreens can be significantly improved after the composition of the present invention is added, and this indicates that the combination of the alfalfa extract, glucosyl rutin, bisabolol and the flos verrucae extract can play a good UVB synergistic effect on the sunscreens in the sunscreens.
(2) PFA value test
Human PFA value test was performed on the sunscreen products prepared in application examples 1 to 2 and application comparative examples 1 to 2. The test method is as follows:
1. the object to be measured: examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2.
2. Control: PFA value 4.4+ -0.6, formulated according to standard formulation of standard in cosmetic safety Specification (2015 edition).
3. The subject: total 5, men 2, women 3, ages 24 to 32, met the subject's volunteer inclusion criteria.
4. Light source: the xenon arc lamp of the sunlight simulator meets the measurement specification requirements in each performance index.
5. The inspection method comprises the following steps: and checking according to the specific requirements of the current effective technical specifications. The subject takes the prone position and irradiates his back. The minimum blackening amount (MPPD value) of the skin of the subject to ultraviolet irradiation was predicted 24 hours before the test, and the ultraviolet irradiation amount was adjusted based on the prediction result to test the subject. Testing by first selecting a test piece of not less than 30cm on the back of the subject 2 Normal skin area, in terms of (2.00.+ -. 0.05) mg/cm 2 Uniformly smearing the measured object or the reference substance in the area; then the UVA irradiation amount is selected according to the specification requirements,irradiation was performed in three cases: (1) the skin of the subject is not coated with the test object; (2) coating a reference substance; (3) coating the measured object. After 2-4 hours, the experimental results are observed, and MPPD values in three cases are recorded respectively.
Calculation method of PFA value:
PFA values of the test or control protection of individual subjects are expressed by the following equation 5:
PFA = MPPD value of protected skin/MPPD value of unprotected skin; equation 5.
The individual PFA value is required to be accurate to one digit after the decimal point, the arithmetic mean value of the PFA value of all the tested objects protected by the tested objects is calculated, and the integral part of the arithmetic mean value is taken as the PFA value of the tested sample.
7. The test results are shown in table 11:
TABLE 11
PFA (protection factor of UVA) is a specific number representing the ability of a product to protect against long-wave ultraviolet UVA, known as the UVA protection index. The greater the PFA number, the better the UVA protection. As can be seen from the human test data in table 11, the PFA average values of application example 1 and application example 2 are respectively greater than those of application comparative example 1 and application comparative example 2, which shows that the PFA value of the sun-screening product can be significantly improved after the composition of the present invention is added, and this indicates that the combination of alfalfa extract, glucosyl rutin, bisabolol and flos verrucae extract can play a good UVA synergistic effect on the sun-screening agent in the sun-screening product.
(3) Sensory evaluation test
30 volunteers of healthy skin type, aged 18-55 years, were screened for skin care products at ordinary times. Volunteers were asked to score each test article, which was application examples 1-2, application comparative examples 1-2, commercially available product 1 (water-in-oil, SPF50+PA+++) commercial product 2 (oil-in-water, commercial product 2 (oil-in-water. Results are shown in tables 12 and 13, table 12 is a table showing the standard specification of the sensory evaluation of sunscreens, and table 13 is the sensory evaluation test result of the volunteer using the product.
Table 12
Dimension(s) | Score interval | Dimension definition |
Texture of | 1~10 | Feedback on the preference of the test quality texture, with higher scores representing a preference |
Spreadability of | 1~10 | Feedback on test item spreadability, with higher scores representing easier |
Fresh and cool degree | 1~10 | Feedback of the freshness of the skin when the test article is applied, the higher the score is, the freshness is represented |
Sense of viscosity | 1~10 | Feedback of the skin's post-application sticky feel to the test article, a higher score indicates smoother |
Film formation rate | 1~10 | Feedback of film formation rate of skin application test article, the higher the score, the faster |
Mildness of | 1~10 | The mildness of the feedback test article is the higher the score, the higher the temperature |
TABLE 13
Group of | Texture of | Spreadability of | Fresh and cool degree | Sense of viscosity | Film formation rate | Mildness of | Total score |
Application example 1 | 8.7 | 8.8 | 8.1 | 8.6 | 8.3 | 9.2 | 51.7 |
Comparative example 1 was used | 8.9 | 8.9 | 7.9 | 8.7 | 8.1 | 8.1 | 50.6 |
Commercial 1 | 8.3 | 7.5 | 7.1 | 7.3 | 7.5 | 6.7 | 44.4 |
Application example 2 | 9.1 | 8.3 | 8.9 | 8.8 | 8.7 | 9.5 | 53.3 |
Comparative example 2 was used | 9.3 | 8.5 | 8.7 | 8.7 | 8.6 | 8.6 | 52.4 |
Commercial 2 | 8.7 | 7.8 | 8.1 | 7.8 | 8.1 | 7.4 | 47.9 |
As can be seen from table 13, the sunscreens prepared according to the present invention have better mildness than the comparative examples of the application of the corresponding dosage forms, demonstrating that the compositions according to the present invention are able to reduce skin irritation; compared with the commercial products of the corresponding dosage forms, the composition is superior to the commercial products in terms of texture, spreadability, freshness, viscosity, film forming speed, mildness and the like, and the side surface shows that the composition can reduce the dosage of the sun-screening agent under the same sun-screening index due to the synergistic SPF and PFA values, thereby improving the skin feel.
(4) Patch test
1. Test article: application examples 1 to 2, application comparative examples 1 to 2;
2. negative control: blank control;
3. the subject: 30 persons in total, which meet the volunteer selection standard of the subjects;
4. the testing method comprises the following steps: the test was performed by referring to the method of the human skin patch test in cosmetic safety Specification (2015 edition). The sample (test object) was placed in a plaque tester at about 0.020g, a topical hypoallergenic tape was applied to the back of the subject, the test object was removed after 24 hours, and skin reactions were observed at 0.5h, 24h, 48h after removal, respectively, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction classification criteria in the current effective specifications, the classification criteria were shown in table 14, and the plaque test results were shown in table 15.
TABLE 14
TABLE 15
The human skin patch test is an important component of cosmetic safety evaluation, and the final purpose of the test is to detect the potential possibility of adverse reactions of human skin caused by a test object. The result of the patch test shows that all the skins of all the subjects show negative reaction (the grading grade is 0 level), which shows that the sun-screening product prepared by the invention has no any allergy or irritation phenomenon to the skins, and the invention has better mildness and high safety.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art, who is within the scope of the present invention, should make equivalent substitutions or modifications according to the technical scheme of the present invention and the inventive concept thereof, and should be covered by the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:
bisabolol: 0.1 to 0.5 part;
alfalfa extract: 0.1 to 0.45 part;
extract of flos Wallichii: 0.1 to 0.45 part;
glucosyl rutin: 0.01 to 0.05 part.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the bisabolol comprises 0.1 to 1wt% of ginger extract;
the mass percentage of the alfalfa extract is 4-6wt%;
the mass percentage of the extract of the flos mori is 10-15 wt%.
3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises the following components:
bisabolol: 0.3 to 0.5 part;
alfalfa extract: 0.3 to 0.45 portion;
extract of flos Wallichii: 0.3 to 0.45 portion;
glucosyl rutin: 0.03 to 0.05 portion.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the photoprotective sun protection synergy comprises at least one of the following functions: protection against ultraviolet light, protection against blue light, photodamage repair, and improvement of sun protection SPF and/or PFA values.
5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the photoprotective sun protection synergy comprises at least one of the following functions: scavenging DPPH free radical, inhibiting the expression of inflammatory factor IL-6, and improving the activity of immortalized keratinocyte of human after photodamage.
6. Cosmetic product, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and an additive.
7. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the composition is 0.31 to 1.45% by mass of the cosmetic.
8. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the additive comprises 0 to 40 parts by mass of a sunscreen agent, 0 to 5 parts by mass of an emulsifier, 0 to 20 parts by mass of an emollient, 0 to 5 parts by mass of a film former and auxiliary materials usable in cosmetics.
9. The cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the sunscreen is selected from at least one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyl oxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, isopentyl p-methoxycinnamate, hexyl diethylhydroxybenzoate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, methylenebis-benzotriazole tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, disodium phenylbisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide;
the emulsifier is at least one of lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, glycerol stearate, PEG-100 stearate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C14-22 alcohol, C20-22 alcohol phosphate, C20-22 alcohol, potassium cetyl phosphate, cetostearyl alcohol and decyl glucoside;
the emollient is at least one selected from polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, diisopropyl sebacate, isododecane, dioctyl carbonate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl ethyl hexanoate and propylene carbonate;
the film forming agent is at least one selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylic acid (ester) or polydimethyl siloxane copolymer.
10. The cosmetic according to claim 9, wherein the additive comprises, in parts by mass:
sodium chloride: 0.8 parts;
butanediol: 5 parts;
1, 2-hexanediol: 0.6 parts;
p-hydroxyacetophenone: 0.5 parts;
disodium EDTA: 0.02 parts;
PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane: 0.5 parts;
lauryl PEG-9 Dimethicone Ethyl Dimethicone: 1 part;
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butylated hydroxytoluene: 10 parts;
hexyl diethylcarbamoylbenzoate: 4.5 parts;
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine: 2 parts;
ethylhexyl salicylate: 5 parts;
ethylhexyl triazone: 1 part;
diisopropyl sebacate: 5 parts;
zinc oxide and triethoxyoctylsilane: 7 parts;
titanium dioxide, silica, polydimethylsiloxane and alumina: 1 part;
polydimethyl siloxane: 10 parts;
trimethylsilyloxy silicate and cyclopentadimethicone: 1 part;
disteardimonium hectorite, cyclopentadimethicone, and propylene carbonate: 1 part; phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid: 3 parts;
arginine: 2 parts;
alternatively, the additive comprises:
butanediol: 5 parts;
1, 2-hexanediol: 0.6 parts;
disodium EDTA: 0.02 parts;
xanthan gum: 0.2 parts;
ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer: 0.15 parts;
potassium cetyl phosphate: 1 part;
p-hydroxyacetophenone: 0.5 parts;
cetostearyl alcohol: 0.6 parts;
glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate: 1.2 parts;
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butylated hydroxytoluene: 10 parts;
ethylhexyl salicylate: 5 parts;
ethylhexyl triazone: 1 part;
hexyl diethylcarbamoylbenzoate: 4.5 parts;
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine: 2 parts;
diisopropyl sebacate: 5 parts;
methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethyl butyl phenol, water, decyl glucoside, propylene glycol, and xanthan gum: 3 parts.
Priority Applications (1)
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CN202311816392.4A CN117618264A (en) | 2023-12-26 | 2023-12-26 | Photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and cosmetic using same |
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CN202311816392.4A CN117618264A (en) | 2023-12-26 | 2023-12-26 | Photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and cosmetic using same |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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CN117618264A true CN117618264A (en) | 2024-03-01 |
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ID=90016446
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CN202311816392.4A Pending CN117618264A (en) | 2023-12-26 | 2023-12-26 | Photoprotection sun-screening synergistic composition and cosmetic using same |
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2023
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