CN117017876A - Cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN117017876A CN117017876A CN202211540978.8A CN202211540978A CN117017876A CN 117017876 A CN117017876 A CN 117017876A CN 202211540978 A CN202211540978 A CN 202211540978A CN 117017876 A CN117017876 A CN 117017876A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
- A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9741—Pteridophyta [ferns]
- A61K8/9749—Filicopsida or Pteridopsida
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and a preparation method thereof, wherein the gentian composition has the effects of nourishing and repairing skin and reducing inflammatory reaction, meanwhile, crocus sativus extract and ceramide are compounded, and supermolecular collagen is added to have good promoting effect on permeation of active ingredients, so that good repairing and anti-allergic effects are achieved; wherein the saffron extract has the effect of relieving skin discomfort by antagonizing PRTV1 receptor; ceramide is a lipid that supplements the absence of damaged skin to repair the barrier; supermolecular collagen is used for promoting the permeation of collagen, and enters a basal layer to play a role in supplementing water and preserving water; the gentian composition has the effects of resisting inflammation and relieving, and meanwhile, the eutectic solvent in the gentian composition can promote the permeation of crocus sativus extract and ceramide, better reaches a target point position and plays a role in synergy. Multiple ways are combined to realize the effects of omnibearing maintenance and relief.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The skin is the largest organ of human body and plays an important role in human immunity; the skin can be roughly divided into three layers, namely subcutaneous tissue, dermis and epidermis from inside to outside; wherein the epidermis layer can be divided into basal layer, thorn layer, granule layer, transparent layer and cuticle layer; the stratum corneum is in direct contact with the external environment to provide a physical immune barrier for skin, and the skin barrier is composed of the keratin of the stratum corneum on the surface layer of the skin, intercellular lipid forming brick wall structure, mucopolysaccharide and the like. Wherein intercellular lipids such as ceramide, free fatty acid, etc. and natural moisturizing factors such as hyaluronic acid, etc. play an important role in the surface barrier. The water is distributed in the skin in a gradient from inside to outside, the water content of subcutaneous tissue and dermis can be up to 80%, and the water content of horny layer can be as low as 10%. Studies show that when the moisture content of the stratum corneum is less than 10%, skin dryness symptoms such as desquamation, redness, itching and the like often appear on the skin.
With the improvement of living standard, various skin care products, especially the high-frequency use of rinse-off products, are increasingly used by consumers, and the problems of skin sensitivity and damaged skin barrier are caused; the moisture content of the skin cuticle is directly related to the health condition of the skin barrier, the skin barrier is damaged, the moisture content of the cuticle can be reduced, skin itch and redness are further caused, and simultaneously, skin cuticle can generate pro-allergic factors such as TSLP, eosinophil chemotactic factors and the like, and the skin allergic inflammatory reaction is started; the skin barrier physical damage caused by itching and scratching caused by inflammatory factors such as histamine and 5-hydroxytryptamine released by allergic inflammatory reaction is inhibited, and the natural moisturizing factors and active proteins generated by keratinocytes are inhibited to aggravate the skin barrier dysfunction; forming a "skin barrier dysfunction-itching-inflammatory malignancy cycle".
The existing skin moisturizer mainly comprises a grease sealing moisturizer, a hydrophilic matrix moisture absorption moisturizer, a hydration moisturizer and the like, but the simple moisturizer treatment only treats the symptoms, and the problem that moisture is retained in the skin by using a physical principle or hydration effect and cannot radically solve the problem of repairing skin barrier dysfunction is solved.
Accordingly, the prior art is still in need of improvement and development.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the shortcomings of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and a preparation method thereof, and aims to solve the problem that the existing physical principle or hydration effect of a humectant cannot solve the repairing of skin barrier dysfunction.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
4-6% of gentian composition, 1-3% of crocus sativus extract, 1-3% of ceramide, 1-3% of supramolecular collagen, 0.1-3% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.1-10% of tremella fermentation liquor, 0.1-5% of saccharomycete lysate, 0-10% of preservative, 0.1-20% of solvent and the balance of water;
the gentian composition is obtained by extracting gentiana rigescens, pteris multiflora and sargassum salmum; the supramolecular collagen is obtained by the reaction of humanized III-type collagen and L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid.
The cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects comprises gentiana rigescens, pteris multifida and sargassum sal in a weight ratio of 3-6:1-3:3-6.
The cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects is prepared from one or more of sodium hyaluronate, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, xanthan gum, carbomer, and Sphingomonas (Sphingomonas) fermentation product extract.
The cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects is characterized in that the pH regulator is one or more selected from triethanolamine, arginine and aminomethylpropanol.
The cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects comprises one or more of 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, octanoic acid and hydroxamic acid and phenoxyethanol.
The cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects is characterized in that the solvent is one or more selected from glycerol and 1, 3-butanediol.
A preparation method of cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects comprises the following steps:
mixing water, a thickening agent and a solvent, heating to a first temperature, and dispersing to obtain a first mixture;
cooling the first mixture to a second temperature, adding pre-mixed 1,3 butanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and stirring to obtain a second mixture;
cooling the second mixture to a third temperature, adding tremella fermentation liquor, saccharomycete lysate and 1, 2-hexanediol, and stirring to obtain a third mixture;
and adding the gentian composition, the crocus sativus extract, the ceramide and the supramolecular collagen into the third mixture, stirring, and regulating the pH value by using a pH regulator to obtain the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects.
The cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects, wherein the first temperature is 80-85 ℃; the second temperature is 60-70 ℃; the third temperature is 40-50 ℃.
The preparation method of the gentian composition comprises the following steps:
pulverizing radix Gentianae, herba Pteridis Multifidae and Sargassum salmum, and sieving to obtain composition powder;
mixing the composition powder with a eutectic solvent, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment, centrifugation and concentration to obtain the gentian composition.
The preparation method of the cosmetic with the repairing and anti-allergic effects comprises the following steps:
providing a L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid, wherein the structural formula of the L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid is as follows:
mixing the L-carnitine citrate ionic liquid and the humanized III-type collagen, stirring, and sequentially homogenizing, filtering, dialyzing and concentrating to obtain the supramolecular collagen.
The beneficial effects are that: the invention provides a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and a preparation method thereof, wherein the cosmetic comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 4-6% of gentian composition, 1-3% of crocus sativus extract, 1-3% of ceramide, 1-3% of supramolecular collagen, 0.1-3% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.1-10% of tremella fermentation liquor, 0.1-5% of saccharomycete lysate, 0-10% of preservative, 0.1-20% of solvent and the balance of water; the gentian composition is obtained by extracting gentiana rigescens, pteris multiflora and sargassum salmum; the supramolecular collagen is obtained by the reaction of humanized III-type collagen and L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid. The gentian composition has the effects of nourishing and repairing skin and reducing inflammatory reaction, meanwhile, the crocus sativus extract and the ceramide are compounded, and the supermolecule collagen is added, so that the permeation of active ingredients can be well promoted, and good repairing and anti-allergic effects are achieved; wherein the saffron extract has the effect of relieving skin discomfort by antagonizing PRTV1 receptor; the role of the ceramide is to supplement the lipid missing from the damaged skin to repair the barrier; the supermolecule collagen has the function of promoting the penetration of collagen, and can enter the basal layer to play a role in supplementing water and preserving water; the gentian composition has the effects of resisting inflammation and relieving, and meanwhile, the eutectic solvent in the gentian composition can promote the permeation of crocus sativus extract and ceramide, better reaches a target point position and plays a role in synergy. Multiple ways are combined to realize the effects of omnibearing maintenance and relief.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a process flow diagram of a method for preparing a cosmetic with repairing and anti-sensitization effects according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention provides a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects and a preparation method thereof, and aims to make the purposes, technical schemes and effects of the cosmetic clearer and more definite, and the invention is further described in detail below. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are for purposes of illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
In the description and claims, unless the context specifically defines the terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" include plural referents. If there is a description of "first", "second", etc. in an embodiment of the present invention, the description of "first", "second", etc. is for descriptive purposes only and is not to be construed as indicating or implying a relative importance or implicitly indicating the number of technical features indicated. Thus, a feature defining "a first" or "a second" may explicitly or implicitly include at least one such feature.
It will be further understood that the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising," when used in this specification, specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof. The term "and/or" as used herein includes all or any element and all combination of one or more of the associated listed items.
It will be understood by those skilled in the art that all terms (including technical and scientific terms) used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs unless defined otherwise. It will be further understood that terms, such as those defined in commonly used dictionaries, should be interpreted as having a meaning that is consistent with their meaning in the context of the prior art and will not be interpreted in an idealized or overly formal sense unless expressly so defined herein.
The invention provides a cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
4-6% of gentian composition, 1-3% of crocus sativus extract, 1-3% of ceramide, 1-3% of supramolecular collagen, 0.1-3% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.1-10% of tremella fermentation liquor, 0.1-5% of saccharomycete lysate, 0-10% of preservative, 0.1-20% of solvent and the balance of water;
the gentian composition is obtained by extracting gentiana rigescens, pteris multiflora and sargassum salmum; the supramolecular collagen is obtained by the reaction of humanized III-type collagen and L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid.
In the embodiment, the gentian composition is utilized to achieve the maintenance and anti-sensitization effects by synergistic interaction with the combination of crocus sativus extract, ceramide and supramolecular collagen in a certain proportion; meanwhile, the gentian composition extracted from gentiana rigescens, chinese brake herb and sargassum sal has the effects of nourishing and repairing skin and reducing inflammatory reaction, and the gentian composition is combined with crocus sativus extract, ceramide and supramolecular collagen, so that the composition can effectively promote permeation of active ingredients, and achieves good repairing and anti-sensitivity effects; the chick embryo experiment shows that the cosmetic with repairing and anti-sensitization effects has low irritation; after the human body test, the skin red spot is well improved after the percutaneous water loss.
Specifically, the saffron extract acts to relieve skin discomfort by antagonizing the PRTV1 receptor; the role of the ceramide is to supplement the lipid missing from the damaged skin to repair the barrier; the supermolecule collagen has the function of promoting the penetration of collagen, and can enter the basal layer to play a role in supplementing water and preserving water; the gentian composition has the effects of resisting inflammation and relieving, and meanwhile, the eutectic solvent in the gentian composition can promote the permeation of crocus sativus extract and ceramide, better reaches a target point position and plays a role in synergy. Multiple ways are combined to realize the effects of omnibearing maintenance and relief.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of gentian composition, 1% of crocus sativus extract, 1% of ceramide, 2% of supramolecular collagen, 0.1-3% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.1-10% of tremella fermentation liquor, 0.1-5% of saccharomycete lysate, 0-10% of preservative, 0.1-20% of solvent and the balance of water.
In some embodiments, the weight ratio of gentiana rigescens, pteris multifida and gulfweed is 3-6:1-3:3-6.
In some embodiments, the thickening agent is selected from one or more of sodium hyaluronate, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, xanthan gum, carbomer, sphingomonas (Sphingomonas) fermentation product extract; the addition of a thickener to the composition can increase the viscosity and stability of the composition so that the droplets remain separate from aggregation while changing the rheological profile.
In some embodiments, the pH adjuster is selected from one or more of triethanolamine, arginine, aminomethylpropanol, and the pH of the cosmetic is adjusted to be able to adapt to skin by the pH adjuster, avoiding causing allergic reactions. The pH value is about 6.0.
In some embodiments, the preservative consists of phenoxyethanol and one or more of 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, octanoic acid hydroxamic acid; the phenoxyethanol is used as an in-surface preservative, can play a role in resisting bacteria and corrosion, has a certain emulsification effect, influences the viscosity of the skin care product, and is not limited by the phenoxyethanol; the 1, 2-hexanediol, the p-hydroxyacetophenone and the octanoic acid hydroxamic acid have antibacterial performance, and can play a role in antibacterial when being added into cosmetics.
In some embodiments, the solvent is selected from one or more of glycerol, 1,3 butanediol.
In addition, as shown in fig. 1, the invention also provides a preparation method of the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects, which comprises the following steps:
step S10: mixing water, a thickening agent and a solvent, heating to a first temperature, and dispersing to obtain a first mixture;
step S20: cooling the first mixture to a second temperature, adding pre-mixed 1,3 butanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and stirring to obtain a second mixture;
step S30: cooling the second mixture to a third temperature, adding tremella fermentation liquor, saccharomycete lysate and 1, 2-hexanediol, and stirring to obtain a third mixture;
step S40: and adding the gentian composition, the crocus sativus extract, the ceramide and the supramolecular collagen into the third mixture, stirring, and regulating the pH value by using a pH regulator to obtain the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects.
In the embodiment, different components are added at different temperature stages, and the preparation of the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergy effects is realized by stirring and uniformly mixing. Different components are added at different temperature stages, so that the activity of the components can be protected, and better repairing and anti-sensitization effects are realized.
Specifically, deionized water, sphingomonas (Sphingomonas) fermentation product extract, HA and glycerin are mixed uniformly, heated to 80-85 ℃ and dispersed to a uniform state; then cooling to about 65 ℃, adding 1, 3-butanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone which are uniformly mixed with the mixture, and stirring the mixture until the mixture is uniformly dissolved; cooling to about 45deg.C, sequentially adding Tremella fermentation liquid, yeast lysate, and 1, 2-hexanediol, stirring to dissolve and disperse uniformly; adding radix Gentianae composition, stigma croci Sativi extract, ceramide and supramolecular collagen according to formula ratio, stirring and dispersing to uniformity, and regulating pH to about 6.0 with arginine to obtain cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects.
In some embodiments, the first temperature is 80-85 ℃; the second temperature is 60-70 ℃; the third temperature is 40-50 ℃; in the preparation method, different components are added sequentially from high temperature to low temperature, so that the activity of the different components can be kept, and high-temperature inactivation is avoided.
In some embodiments, the method of preparing the gentian composition comprises the steps of:
step S01: pulverizing radix Gentianae, herba Pteridis Multifidae and Sargassum salmum, and sieving to obtain composition powder;
step S02: mixing the composition powder with a eutectic solvent, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment, centrifugation and concentration to obtain the gentian composition.
Specifically, the whole plant of gentiana rigescens, chinese brake herb and sal ammoniac gulfweed are mixed, crushed and sieved according to the weight ratio of 3-6:1-3:3-6 to obtain composition powder; then mixing betaine and one or two of 1, 3-butanediol, urea, glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol and lactic acid according to a molar ratio of 1:2-1:10, heating at 60-90 ℃ and a rotating speed of 400-800rpm for 1-2 hours to obtain a eutectic solvent, mixing the composition powder with the eutectic solvent, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment, centrifugation and concentration to obtain the gentian composition. Due to the principle of 'monarch, minister, assistant and guide', the gentian extract cooperates with the pteris multiflora and the sargassum sal extract, so that the anti-inflammatory effect of the gentian is added in efficacy, and the anti-allergic efficacy can be improved from other dimensions. The composition extract of the embodiment can inhibit allergic reaction from various ways and reduce inflammation, thereby more effectively playing the role of anti-allergy.
In some embodiments, the method of preparing supramolecular collagen comprises the steps of:
step S1: providing a L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid, wherein the structural formula of the L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid is as follows:
step S2: mixing the L-carnitine citrate ionic liquid and the humanized III-type collagen, stirring, and sequentially homogenizing, filtering, dialyzing and concentrating to obtain the supramolecular collagen.
Specifically, the L-carnitine citrate ionic liquid is prepared by mixing L-carnitine salt solution and citrate solution, stirring under the mixed atmosphere of carbon dioxide and nitrogen, filtering, concentrating and drying. Wherein the volume ratio of the carbon dioxide to the nitrogen is 99:1-99:10, and the pressure of the mixed atmosphere is 0.1-100 MPa; the mass ratio of the L-carnitine citrate ionic liquid to the humanized III-type collagen is 10:1-100:1.
In some embodiments, the water is deionized water.
As an example, the cosmetic may be an essence, a mask, a cream, or the like.
The following examples are further illustrative of the invention. It is also to be understood that the following examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations upon the scope of the invention, since numerous insubstantial modifications and variations will now occur to those skilled in the art in light of the foregoing disclosure.
Designing 4 groups of formulas according to the total effective substance mass fraction of 9%, obtaining a conclusion through chick embryo allantoic membrane experiments, screening out the optimal proportion with the lowest irritation, obtaining relevant repair data through human body efficacy experiments, and verifying the effectiveness of the composition.
Specifically, table 1 is a formulation list of cosmetics having the repairing and antiallergic effects of comparative example 1 and examples 1 to 4 in mass%.
The cosmetic preparation method of comparative example 1 and examples 1 to 4 comprises the steps of:
step 1: mixing deionized water, sphingomonas (Sphingomonas) fermentation product extract, HA and glycerol uniformly, heating to 80-85deg.C, and dispersing to uniform state;
step 2: cooling to about 65 ℃, adding 1, 3-butanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone which are uniformly mixed with the raw materials, and stirring until the mixture is uniformly dissolved;
step 3: cooling to about 45deg.C, sequentially adding Tremella fermentation liquid, yeast lysate, and 1, 2-hexanediol, stirring to dissolve and disperse uniformly;
step 4: comparative example deionized water was added to 100%, gentian composition, crocus sativus extract, ceramide and supramolecular collagen were added in the formulation ratio in the examples, stirred and dispersed uniformly, and pH was adjusted to about 6.0 with arginine to prepare cosmetics corresponding to comparative example 1 and examples 1 to 4, which were then subjected to data testing, respectively, according to the following test scheme:
1. chick embryo allantoic membrane irritation experiment
1. Test basis
This test was performed with reference to SN/T2329-2009 "cosmetic eye irritation/corrosiveness chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test" (HET-CAM method).
2. Purpose and principle of the test
The test utilizes the characteristics of complete, clear and transparent chorioallantoic membrane vascular system in the middle period of the hatched chick embryo, a certain amount of the test object is directly contacted with the chick embryo allantoic membrane, the change of chorioallantoic membrane toxicity effect indexes (such as bleeding, coagulation and vascular thawing) is observed after the test object acts for a period of time, and then a score is obtained by combining the test object and is used for evaluating the eye irritation of the test object.
3. Test materials
3.1 chick embryo: SPF stage;
3.2 other materials: electronic timer, dental saw tooth curved forceps, egg candler, incubator and stereoscopic microscope;
3.3 control: the negative control was 0.9% NaCl solution, and the positive control was 0.1mol/L NaOH solution.
4. Test conditions
The room temperature is 20-25 ℃ and the relative humidity is 45-70%. The incubation temperature is 37.5+/-0.5 ℃ and the relative humidity is 55-70%.
5. Test procedure
5.1 preparation:
(1) Purchasing chick embryo with embryo age of 0d, storing and transporting the chick embryo with the air chamber upwards to a laboratory, and hatching the chick embryo to 9 days old;
(2) The test pieces were prepared as treated or as is before the main test, and a 0.9% NaCl solution and a 0.1mol/L NaOH solution were prepared.
5.2 formal test
(1) Sequentially numbering and marking the test samples;
(2) Marking the position of an air chamber on the surface of an eggshell of a chick embryo, peeling off the eggshell part with the mark by using dental saw tooth bent forceps, exposing the eggshell to white, dripping a few milliliters of 0.9 percent sodium chloride (NaCl) solution into the eggshell by using a suction pipe to moisten the eggshell, and pouring out the 0.9 percent NaCl solution; carefully removing the inner membrane by forceps to ensure that the vascular membrane is not damaged;
(3) Placing a Teflon ring in a chick embryo, placing 100uL of sample in the Teflon ring on the surface of the CAM by using a pipette instrument, observing the condition of the CAM reaction within 5 minutes of the action of the sample on the surface of the CMA, and recording the time of occurrence of each toxic effect (bleeding, coagulation and vascular thawing);
(4) At least 6 chick embryos were completed per sample.
6. Test evaluation
6.1A stimulus score (IS) was calculated using the following formula, with the result retaining two decimal places
Wherein sec H, sec L, sec C respectively represent the time(s) at which bleeding, vascular thawing, coagulation is observed to begin on the CAM membrane;
6.2 classifying the eye irritation of the test subjects according to Table 2 based on the calculated IS values
The test raw data are shown in table 3:
the test structures are shown in table 4:
stimulation conclusion:
the stimulus score of example 1 was lower than that of comparative example 1, with some stimulus improvement;
the stimulus score of example 2 was lower than that of comparative example 1, with some stimulus improvement;
the stimulus score of example 3 was lower than that of comparative example 1, with some stimulus improvement;
the most significant improvement in stimulation scores was attributed to the non-stimulation nature of example 4.
2. Human efficacy testing
1. Test article: example 4 (specific formulations see Table 1)
2. Control: self front-back control
3. The subject: meets the subject selection criteria.
4. Instrument apparatus:
4.1 skin melanin and Red pigment tester Mexameter MX18
4.2VapoMeter SWL5 percutaneous moisture loss measuring instrument (Delfin Finland)
5. Test environment: temperature: 20-22 ℃, humidity: 40% -60% and carrying out real-time dynamic monitoring.
6. The test method comprises the following steps:
6.1 subject screening
6.1.1 number of subjects: 16 cases
6.1.2 subject conditions:
6.1.2.1 inclusion criteria:
(1) The age is 18-60 years, and the medicine is suitable for both men and women.
(2) Good health condition of the whole body and no important systemic diseases.
(3) Volunteers with TEWL > 15.
(4) Can strictly follow the requirements and the time schedule of a research scheme and sign an informed consent and a confidentiality agreement.
6.1.2.2 exclusion criteria:
(1) Women currently during pregnancy, lactation or during the next two months are planning pregnancy.
(2) The face has acute inflammation or other skin diseases (such as rosacea, eczema, lupus erythematosus, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, severe exfoliative skin, etc.).
(3) Has high sensitivity constitution or cosmetic allergy.
(4) The face has obvious sunburn, scars, and hirsutism or other conditions that may affect the test measurements.
(5) Any drug that may affect the skin condition or response, such as antihistamines, antibiotics, insulin, anti-inflammatory drugs, is taken orally or topically for a month
Drugs, vitamin a, steroid drugs, aspirin, thyroid drugs, and the like.
(6) Hormonal drugs and immunosuppressants have been used in the last month.
(7) The subject site is now or nearly one month in participation in other clinical experimenters.
(8) Cosmetic treatments such as chemical peeling (fruit acid treatment), microcrystalline peeling, laser peeling, etc. are performed on the inner face of the three months.
6.1.2.3 reject criteria: serious adverse reactions occurred during the test and the development protocol was not followed (e.g., use of other cosmetics, medications, and other reasons required for withdrawal during the test).
6.2 preparation before testing
The test site test cannot use any product on the same day. Before the test, the test subjects need to clean the face uniformly, suck the face with chipless facial tissues, and sit still for 30min in a human efficacy evaluation room (temperature: 20-22 ℃ and humidity: 40-60%), and can not drink water and beverage during the period. The subject remained relaxed, with the face exposed, avoiding touching.
Subjects were instructed to do the test prior to the test and signed informed consent. The test area is a face.
6.2 method of Using the product
After the face is cleaned, a proper amount of the product is evenly smeared on the face, and the face is gently massaged until the product is completely absorbed. The medicine is used for 1 time in the morning and at night and is used for 28 days continuously. During the trial, the subject was prohibited from using the soothing and repairing formulation; the subject is prohibited from dropping, injecting, orally taking, or otherwise ingesting a formulation that affects the maintenance, relief test; the subject is mainly subjected to indoor activities, and long-term exposure to outdoor illumination is avoided.
6.3 objective quantitative evaluation
After 30min of facial cleansing, EI value data were collected using a Mexameter MX18, with the measured value as baseline value (D0); the percutaneous moisture loss meter detects the skin TEWL value at the test site, its measured value is taken as a baseline value (D0), and then the product is dispensed and the method of use is instructed. Subjects were asked to return and conduct the same index test 14 and 28 days after the product (D14 and D28). Testing of the same subject was accomplished using the same instrument, the same tester. The front and back of the test part should be kept consistent between the two test time points.
6.4 statistical analysis
The measurements for each test area are counted. If the test data are normally distributed, adopting a pairing t-test method to carry out statistical analysis; if the test data are in non-normal distribution, adopting a rank sum test method to carry out statistical analysis.
The statistical methods all use a two-tailed test with a test level α=0.05.
Data statistics were analyzed using SPSS 22.0 software. When significant differences in results occur, P < 0.05 and P < 0.01 are noted, respectively. * P < 0.05 indicates statistical significance, P < 0.01 indicates significant difference, and P <0.001 indicates extremely significant difference. If each index of the test area has statistical significance or significance difference, the index of the product is effective.
The specific test results are shown in tables 5 and 6:
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the results show that: the TEWL values of example 4 were significantly different before and after use (P < 0.001) and the EI values were significantly improved before and after use (P < 0.01), indicating the efficacy of the repair of example 4.
In summary, the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects provided by the invention, and the preparation method and application thereof, comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 4-6% of gentian composition, 1-3% of crocus sativus extract, 1-3% of ceramide, 1-3% of supramolecular collagen, 0.1-3% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.1-10% of tremella fermentation liquor, 0.1-5% of saccharomycete lysate, 0-10% of preservative, 0.1-20% of solvent and the balance of water; the gentian composition is obtained by extracting gentiana rigescens, pteris multiflora and sargassum salmum; the supramolecular collagen is obtained by the reaction of humanized III-type collagen and L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid. The gentian composition has the effects of nourishing and repairing skin and reducing inflammatory reaction, meanwhile, the crocus sativus extract and the ceramide are compounded, and the supermolecule collagen is added, so that the permeation of active ingredients can be well promoted, and good repairing and anti-allergic effects are achieved; wherein the saffron extract has the effect of relieving skin discomfort by antagonizing PRTV1 receptor; the role of the ceramide is to supplement the lipid missing from the damaged skin to repair the barrier; the supermolecule collagen has the function of promoting the penetration of collagen, and can enter the basal layer to play a role in supplementing water and preserving water; the gentian composition has the effects of resisting inflammation and relieving, and meanwhile, the eutectic solvent in the gentian composition can promote the permeation of crocus sativus extract and ceramide, better reaches a target point position and plays a role in synergy. Multiple ways are combined to realize the effects of omnibearing maintenance and relief.
It is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to the examples described above, but is capable of modification and variation in light of the above teachings by those skilled in the art, and that all such modifications and variations are intended to be included within the scope of the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. A cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
4-6% of gentian composition, 1-3% of crocus sativus extract, 1-3% of ceramide, 1-3% of supramolecular collagen, 0.1-3% of thickener, 0-3% of pH regulator, 0.1-10% of tremella fermentation liquor, 0.1-5% of saccharomycete lysate, 0-10% of preservative, 0.1-20% of solvent and the balance of water;
the gentian composition is obtained by extracting gentiana rigescens, pteris multiflora and sargassum salmum; the supramolecular collagen is obtained by the reaction of humanized III-type collagen and L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid.
2. The cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of gentiana rigescens, pteris multifida and sargassum sal is 3-6:1-3:3-6.
3. The cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects according to claim 1, wherein said thickener is selected from one or more of sodium hyaluronate, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, xanthan gum, carbomer, sphingomonas fermentation product extract.
4. The cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects of claim 1, wherein said pH adjuster is selected from one or more of triethanolamine, arginine, and aminomethylpropanol.
5. The cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects of claim 1, wherein said preservative consists of phenoxyethanol and one or more of 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, octanoic acid hydroxamic acid.
6. The cosmetic with repairing and antiallergic effects of claim 1, wherein said solvent is selected from one or more of glycerin and 1,3 butylene glycol.
7. A method for preparing a cosmetic having a repairing and antiallergic effect as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising the steps of:
mixing water, a thickening agent and a solvent, heating to a first temperature, and dispersing to obtain a first mixture;
cooling the first mixture to a second temperature, adding pre-mixed 1,3 butanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and stirring to obtain a second mixture;
cooling the second mixture to a third temperature, adding tremella fermentation liquor, saccharomycete lysate and 1, 2-hexanediol, and stirring to obtain a third mixture;
and adding the gentian composition, the crocus sativus extract, the ceramide and the supramolecular collagen into the third mixture, stirring, and regulating the pH value by using a pH regulator to obtain the cosmetic with repairing and anti-allergic effects.
8. The method for preparing a cosmetic having a repairing and antiallergic effect according to claim 7, wherein the first temperature is 80-85 ℃; the second temperature is 60-70 ℃; the third temperature is 40-50 ℃.
9. The method for preparing a cosmetic having a repairing and anti-allergic effect according to claim 7, wherein the method for preparing the gentian composition comprises the steps of:
pulverizing radix Gentianae, herba Pteridis Multifidae and Sargassum salmum, and sieving to obtain composition powder;
mixing the composition powder with a eutectic solvent, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment, centrifugation and concentration to obtain the gentian composition.
10. The method for preparing a cosmetic having a repairing and antiallergic effect according to claim 7, wherein the method for preparing supramolecular collagen comprises the steps of:
providing a L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid, wherein the structural formula of the L-carnitine citric acid ionic liquid is as follows:
mixing the L-carnitine citrate ionic liquid and the humanized III-type collagen, stirring, and sequentially homogenizing, filtering, dialyzing and concentrating to obtain the supramolecular collagen.
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