CN116370349A - Amino acid facial cleanser, and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Amino acid facial cleanser, and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN116370349A
CN116370349A CN202310404802.8A CN202310404802A CN116370349A CN 116370349 A CN116370349 A CN 116370349A CN 202310404802 A CN202310404802 A CN 202310404802A CN 116370349 A CN116370349 A CN 116370349A
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amino acid
parts
facial cleanser
hydroxypropyl starch
humectant
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刘茂凯
陆海亮
李鑫宇
黄伟强
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Shenzhen Liran Cosmetics Co ltd
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Shenzhen Liran Cosmetics Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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Abstract

The application discloses an amino acid facial cleanser and a preparation method and application thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 20-40 parts of surfactant, 8-15 parts of humectant, 5-15 parts of thickener, 0.1-1 part of antioxidant, 0.1-1 part of pH regulator, 0.1-1 part of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.8 part of aromatic, 0.4-1.5 parts of filler, 0.01-0.1 part of chelating agent, 0.01-0.1 part of cooling agent and the balance of deionized water. The application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, which can maintain the stability of a microcosmic foam wall and reduce the flow speed of liquid in the foam wall by selecting components of a specific humectant and a thickening agent on the premise of using components of a specific amino acid surfactant, a skin conditioning agent and the like, so as to achieve the effect of stabilizing the foam.

Description

Amino acid facial cleanser, and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an amino acid facial cleanser and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Facial cleanser belongs to facial cleansing products, and is used for cleaning sebum, sweat, flaked horny layer, blocked pores, cosmetic residues and the like secreted by human facial skin during cleaning. These residual metabolites can react with oxygen in the air, deposited molecules, and upon exposure to sunlight or the presence of bacteria on the skin, various physicochemical or biochemical reactions can occur, forming irritating substances that can harm the skin. In order to achieve the effects of high-efficiency cleaning, degreasing and blackhead removal, the traditional facial cleanser is added with soap base, SLS (sodium laurylsulfate) or SLES (sodium laurylsulfate) surfactant with strong degreasing and irritation. Because of higher pH and stronger degreasing force, the facial cleanser can achieve good decontamination effect, but is not mild enough to the skin. This process breaks the sebaceous membrane of the skin, making the skin more vulnerable to external stimuli.
Amino acid facial cleanser is a novel facial cleanser which appears in the market in recent years. The amino acid facial cleanser adopts amino acid surfactant. The weak acidic amino acids are active, and the pH value is close to that of human skin, so that the skin is warm and friendly. Common amino acid surfactants include: sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and the like. In addition, a humectant is added into the amino acid facial cleanser to clean skin and moisten skin at the same time, so that the water-oil balance of the skin is maintained.
Although the amino acid facial cleanser has a plurality of advantages, the amino acid facial cleanser still has a plurality of defects in the technical aspect, and the effect of the product is easily reduced. Foam enhances the contact area of the surfactant with the skin, indirectly enhances the soil removal, and the amino acid itself does not exhibit good foaming properties. The existing amino acid facial cleanser only adopts cocoyl/lauroyl/palmitoyl amino acid with foaming capacity to achieve the effect of cleaning and decontaminating, so that the problems of general foaming and foam stabilizing capacity and weaker oil control cleaning effect exist, and the use experience brought by people is poor. One solution to this problem is to raise the concentration of the amino acid, which, however, can greatly increase the cost of the formulation and limit mass production.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the above, the purpose of the present application is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide an amino acid facial cleanser and a preparation method and application thereof.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the application is as follows: an amino acid facial cleanser comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight: 20-40 parts of surfactant, 8-15 parts of humectant, 5-15 parts of thickener, 0.1-1 part of antioxidant, 0.1-1 part of pH regulator, 0.1-1 part of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.8 part of aromatic, 0.4-1.5 parts of filler, 0.01-0.1 part of chelating agent, 0.01-0.1 part of cooling agent and the balance of deionized water; wherein the surfactant is at least one of potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; the humectant is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and the thickener is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
The application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, which can maintain the stability of a microcosmic foam wall and reduce the flow speed of liquid in the foam wall by selecting the components of a specific humectant and a thickening agent on the premise of using the components such as the amino acid surfactant, the skin conditioning agent and the like, so as to achieve the effect of stabilizing the foam.
Preferably, the amino acid facial cleanser comprises the following components in parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight: 25-35 parts of surfactant, 10-13 parts of humectant, 8-10 parts of thickener, 0.3-0.7 part of antioxidant, 0.1-0.3 part of pH regulator, 0.3-0.6 part of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.2 part of aromatic, 0.6-1 part of filler, 0.03-0.08 part of chelating agent, 0.03-0.08 part of cooling agent and the balance of deionized water.
The inventor finds that when the weight parts of each component in the amino acid facial cleanser adopt the selection, the prepared amino acid facial cleanser has better foam initial height and foam stability.
Preferably, the humectant comprises 45-65% of glycerin, 20-45% of methyl propylene glycol, 3-10% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 3-10% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-1% of octanediol and 0.0001-0.003% of ultra-pure beta-glucan. Preferably, the thickener consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 15-30% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 10-25% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 1-5% of hydroxypropyl starch
The inventor finds that when the components of the humectant and the thickener in the amino acid facial cleanser are selected in a specific proportion, the prepared amino acid facial cleanser has better foam initial height and foam stability.
Preferably, the humectant comprises, by mass, 50% -60% of glycerin, 25% -35% of methyl propylene glycol, 5% -8% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 5% -8% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.6% -0.9% of octanediol, and 0.0005% -0.0025% of ultrapure beta-glucan; the thickener consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 22-28% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 17-23% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 2-4% of hydroxypropyl starch.
Preferably, the humectant consists of 53 mass percent of glycerin, 33 mass percent of methyl propylene glycol, 6.6 mass percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 6.6 mass percent of sodium hyaluronate, 0.798 mass percent of octanediol and 0.002 mass percent of ultra-pure beta-glucan; the thickener consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 25% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 20% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 3% of hydroxypropyl starch.
The inventor finds that when the components of the humectant and the thickener in the amino acid facial cleanser are selected in the specific proportion, the initial height of the prepared amino acid facial cleanser foam and the stability of the foam are optimal.
Preferably, the sodium hyaluronate is high affinity sodium hyaluronate.
Described in the applicationThe high affinity sodium hyaluronate is CationHA TM Clear 1, purchased from Hua Xi organism. The inventors of the present application have found through a great deal of research that the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid used is limited to 110-150 ten thousand, and the hyaluronic acid has good performance of reducing the flow of liquid in the membrane. In addition, in order to improve the affinity of the product and the foam gain while reducing the irritation of the surfactant, a lower molecular weight hyaluronic acid is also required. For this purpose, the present application specifically selects sodium hyaluronate with high affinity complexed with hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights (Hua Xi organism, cationHA) TM Clear 1) is obtained by fully complexing two kinds of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) with different molecular weights by adopting a cationic polymer, wherein one kind of hyaluronic acid is medium molecular HA (130 ten thousand molecular weight), and the other kind of hyaluronic acid is oligomeric small molecular HA (1 ten thousand molecular weight) obtained by adopting an enzyme digestion process, and the ratio of hyaluronic acid to HA is about 1:7. Compared with sodium hyaluronate which is added independently, the oligomeric small molecule sodium hyaluronate which is unique in the high-affinity sodium hyaluronate is more convenient for percutaneous absorption. The hyaluronic acid can be more easily resided in the flushing process, shows higher affinity, and provides better residency conditions for the exertion of the hyaluronic acid when the hyaluronic acid is applied to the facial cleanser; in addition, the small molecular weight hyaluronic acid has more remarkable effect of reducing the irritation caused by the surfactant.
Preferably, the amino acid facial cleanser comprises at least one of the following (a) - (g):
(a) The antioxidant is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and alkyl dihydric alcohol;
(b) The pH regulator is at least one of citric acid and lactic acid;
(c) The skin conditioner is at least one of betaine salicylic acid, sophorolipid, lignum Santali albi extract, carbon powder, lactic acid and azelaic acid;
(d) The aromatic is daily essence;
(e) The filler is at least one of sodium polyacrylate and kaolin;
(f) The chelating agent is at least one of EDTA disodium, octanoyl hydroxamic acid and sodium phytate;
(g) The cooling agent is at least one of menthol and menthyl lactate.
In addition, the application provides a preparation method of the amino acid facial cleanser, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the surfactant, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer in the thickener, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and hydroxypropyl starch, glycerin in the humectant, methyl propylene glycol and deionized water, and fully stirring at 65-80 ℃ at 20-35rpm;
(2) Cooling the mixture obtained in the step (1) to room temperature, adding the skin conditioning agent, the cooling agent, the aromatic, the pH regulator, the antioxidant, the chelating agent, the filler and the 1, 2-hexanediol in the humectant, the sodium hyaluronate, the octanediol and the beta-glucan into a main material pot, keeping the stirring speed at 25-40rpm, and uniformly stirring to obtain the amino acid oil-control facial cleanser.
Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of this application are: the application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, which can maintain the stability of a microcosmic foam wall and reduce the flow speed of liquid in the foam wall by selecting the components of a specific humectant and a thickening agent on the premise of using the components such as the amino acid surfactant, the skin conditioning agent and the like, so as to achieve the effect of stabilizing the foam.
Detailed Description
For a better description of the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present application, the present application will be further described with reference to specific examples. In the examples, the experimental methods used are conventional methods unless otherwise specified, and the materials, reagents, etc. used, unless otherwise specified, are commercially available.
In the following examples and comparative examples, the sodium hyaluronate was sodium hyaluronate with high affinity, and sodium hyaluronate with high affinity was CationHA TM Clear 1, purchased from Hua Xi organism;
beta-glucan is ultrapure beta-glucan with purity >95%, hydrasensyl Glucan Green, purchased from basf.
Examples and comparative examples
Examples 1 to 5
The application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, wherein the total weight of the amino acid facial cleanser is 100 parts, and the components and the weight parts of the components in examples 1-5 are shown in table 1;
the antioxidants, pH regulators, skin conditioners, fragrances, fillers, chelating agents and coolants used in examples 1-5 of the present application were the same in composition, in particular the antioxidant was p-hydroxyacetophenone; the pH regulator is citric acid; the skin conditioner is a mixture of betaine salicylic acid, sophorolipid, sandalwood extract, carbon powder, lactic acid and azelaic acid, and the weight ratio of the betaine salicylic acid is as follows: sophorolipids: sandalwood extract: carbon powder: lactic acid: azelaic acid = 1:1:1:0.5:0.001:0.0005; the aromatic is daily essence; the filler is a mixture of sodium polyacrylate and kaolin, and the weight ratio of the sodium polyacrylate is as follows: kaolin = 7:1; the chelating agent is disodium EDTA; the cooling agent is menthol.
The components and proportions of the surfactant, the humectant and the thickener in examples 1 to 5 of the application are selected as follows:
the surfactant is a mixture of potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and the weight ratio of the surfactant to the mixture is potassium cocoyl glycinate: 38%, sodium cocoamidopropionate: 27.5%, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine: 17%, sodium cocoyl isethionate: 10%, sodium lauroyl glutamate: 4%, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate: 3.5%.
The thickener is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: water balance, 25% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 20% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 3% of hydroxypropyl starch;
the humectant is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 53% of glycerol, 33% of methyl propylene glycol, 6.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 6.6% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 0.798% of octanediol and 0.002% of ultrapure beta-glucan;
the preparation method of the amino acid facial cleanser comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the surfactant, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer in the thickener, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and hydroxypropyl starch, glycerin in the humectant, methyl propylene glycol and deionized water, and fully stirring at 65-80 ℃ at 20-35rpm;
(2) Cooling the mixture obtained in the step (1) to room temperature, adding the skin conditioning agent, the cooling agent, the aromatic, the pH regulator, the antioxidant, the chelating agent, the filler and the 1, 2-hexanediol in the humectant, the sodium hyaluronate, the octanediol and the beta-glucan into a main material pot, keeping the stirring speed at 25-40rpm, and uniformly stirring to obtain the amino acid oil-control facial cleanser.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0004180942230000051
Figure BDA0004180942230000061
Examples 6 to 9
The application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, which comprises 100 parts by weight of the total amino acid facial cleanser, and examples 6-9 are different from example 1 in the selection of only the thickener, and the other components and parts by weight are the same, wherein the selection of the thickener in examples 6-9 is as follows.
Example 6
The thickener described in example 6 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 22%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 23% and hydroxypropyl starch 4%.
Example 7
The thickener described in example 7 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 28% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 17% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 2% of hydroxypropyl starch.
Example 8
The thickener described in example 8 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 15% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 25% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 5% of hydroxypropyl starch.
Example 9
The thickener described in example 9 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 30% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 10% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 1% of hydroxypropyl starch.
Examples 10 to 13
The application provides an amino acid facial cleanser, which comprises 100 parts by weight of the total amino acid facial cleanser, and examples 10-13 are different from example 1 in the selection of only the humectant, and the other components and parts by weight are the same, wherein the selection of the humectant in examples 10-13 is as follows.
Example 10
The humectant in the embodiment 10 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 51.3995% of glycerol, 35% of methyl propylene glycol, 8% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 5% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 0.6% of octanediol and 0.0005% of ultrapure beta-glucan.
Example 11
The humectant in the example 11 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 59.0975% of glycerol, 27% of methyl propylene glycol, 5% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 8% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 0.9% of octanediol and 0.0025% of ultrapure beta-glucan.
Example 12
The humectant in example 12 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 45.8999% of glycerol, 41% of methyl propylene glycol, 10% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 3% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 0.1% of octanediol and 0.0001% of ultra-pure beta-glucan.
Example 13
The humectant in the embodiment 13 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 64.97% of glycerol, 21% of methyl propylene glycol, 3% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 10% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 1% of octanediol and 0.003% of ultra-pure beta-glucan.
Comparative examples 1 to 8
The present comparative example provides an amino acid facial cleanser, wherein the total weight of the amino acid facial cleanser is 100 parts, the comparative examples 1 to 4 are different from the example 1 in the selection of only the thickener, and the other components and the weight of the thickener are identical, and the selection of the thickener of the comparative examples 1 to 4 is as follows. Comparative examples 5-8 the humectant was selected differently from example 1 only, and the remaining components and parts by weight were all the same, the humectants of comparative examples 5-8 were selected as follows:
comparative example 1
The thickener described in comparative example 1 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, the balance of water, 28% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and 20% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
Comparative example 2
The thickener in comparative example 2 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and hydroxypropyl starch, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, 52% of water, 45% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and 3% of hydroxypropyl starch.
Comparative example 3
The thickener described in comparative example 3 is a mixture of water, PEG/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, water 52%, PEG/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer 25%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 20%, and hydroxypropyl starch 3%.
Comparative example 4
The thickener in comparative example 4 is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass, 52% of water, 25% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 20% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and 3% of hydroxypropyl starch.
Comparative example 5
The humectant in comparative example 5 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 53% of glycerol, 33% of methyl propylene glycol, 13.2% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 0.798% of caprylic glycol and 0.002% of ultrapure beta-glucan.
Comparative example 6
The humectant in comparative example 6 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, octanediol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 53% of glycerol, 33% of methyl propylene glycol, 13.2% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.798% of octanediol and 0.002% of ultra-pure beta-glucan.
Comparative example 7
The humectant in comparative example 7 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, pullulan, octylglycol and beta-glucan, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 53% of glycerol, 33% of methyl propylene glycol, 6.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 6.6% of pullulan, 0.798% of octanediol and 0.002% of ultrapure beta-glucan.
Comparative example 8
The humectant in comparative example 8 is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and gamma-sodium polyglutamate, and consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 53% of glycerol, 33% of methyl propylene glycol, 6.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 6.6% of high-affinity sodium hyaluronate, 0.798% of octyl glycol and 0.002% of gamma-sodium polyglutamate.
Performance testing
Test example 1 Rogowski foam test
The testing process comprises the following steps: the amino acid facial cleanser prepared in the examples and the comparative examples is subjected to foam test after standing and aging for 24 hours at room temperature, and the test method is determined by using a Roche foam meter according to GB/17173;
test temperature: 45 ℃;
the operation steps are as follows:
the temperature of the thermostatic bath is controlled to be 45+/-0.5 ℃, and then circulating thermostatic water is pumped into an outer sleeve of the instrument through the thermostatic bath, so that the instrument is operated under the thermostatic condition.
2.50g of the sample to be tested was weighed and dissolved completely with 100ml of hard water and 900ml of deionized water.
The inner wall of the scale tube is washed clean by distilled water, and then the tube wall is washed clean by test solution.
And placing the volumetric flask containing the solution to be measured in a constant temperature tank to maintain a certain temperature.
After the constant temperature, slowly adding the solution to be measured to a 50mL scale along the inner wall of the column, and vertically clamping the foam pipette fully sucking the solution to be measured, so that the lower end of the foam pipette is aligned with the scale mark on the column.
The tap of the foam pipette is opened to allow the solution to flow down completely, and when the solution in the drip tube is finished, a stopwatch is started immediately, and the initial foam height is recorded. The foam height was then recorded over 5min,10min and the foam value was expressed as foam height.
The above test was repeated 3 times, and the vessel wall had to be cleaned before each test to avoid affecting the data. The average value of the test was taken as the final result. The parallel measurement allows a difference of not more than 3mm.
Test results: as shown in tables 4 and 5.
TABLE 4 Table 4
Figure BDA0004180942230000091
Figure BDA0004180942230000101
TABLE 5
Figure BDA0004180942230000102
Test example 3 oil control efficacy test
The testing process comprises the following steps: the amino acid facial cleanser prepared in the embodiment and the comparative example is subjected to an oil control efficacy test;
group of subjects: 105 men between 18 and 50 years of age
The grouping method comprises the following steps: 105 subjects were equally divided into 2 groups, each corresponding to 5 persons, and the amino acid facial washes prepared in examples and comparative examples were used, respectively.
Health status: the skin of the subject is healthy, the skin allergy history does not exist, the oil content Sebumeter test value is more than or equal to 120 mug/cm < 2 >, and the volunteer selection standard of the subject is met.
Test instrument:
skin grease tester Sebumeter SM-815 (Courage & Khazaka, germany);
test environment: temperature: 21.0 ℃ +/-1.0 ℃; humidity: 50% ± 10%;
the testing process comprises the following steps:
1. after the face of the subject is cleaned with clear water (the forehead cannot be cleaned), the subject sits still in the constant temperature and humidity room for 30min. The subject was cleaned with an alcohol pad and measured for left and right forehead grease values using a Sebumeter, which would be a short-term basis.
2. After the subjects used the samples for 4 hours, the forehead sample area and the blank area were tested for grease content with a Sebumeter, respectively.
3. The subjects were given 7 days at home, were interviewed on site, were sitting still in a constant temperature and humidity room for 30min, and were thereafter subjected to a Sebumeter (left and right forehead) test.
4. The subjects were allowed to sit still in a constant temperature and humidity room for 30min after 14 days at home with the sample, interview on site, clean water after cleaning the face (no ability to clean the forehead), and then performed a Sebumeter (left and right forehead) test.
Oil content: the sample area and the control area were tested for lipid content (1 time) using a Sebumeter 4 hours, 7 days, 14 days after use, before use.
Parameter interpretation: the smaller the parameter value, the lower the skin fat content.
Test results: as shown in tables 6 and 7.
TABLE 6
Figure BDA0004180942230000111
Figure BDA0004180942230000121
TABLE 7
Figure BDA0004180942230000122
From the experimental data in tables 1 and 2, the stability of the micro foam wall is maintained and the flow speed of liquid in the liquid foam wall is reduced by selecting the components of the specific humectant and the thickener, so that the foam stabilizing effect is achieved, and the oil control effect of the amino acid facial cleanser is improved.
As is clear from the comparison of example 1 and comparative examples 1-2, the hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in the thickener of the present invention are a synergistic system, and the two components are not indispensable. As is clear from comparison of example 1 and comparative examples 5 to 6, 1, 2-hexanediol and sodium hyaluronate in the moisturizer are a synergistic system, and the two components are not indispensable. As is evident from comparison of example 1, comparative examples 3-4 and comparative examples 7-8, replacement of a certain component in the thickener or humectant results in a significant decrease in the air bubble and foam stabilizing ability of the resulting amino acid-washed facial milk, indicating that only the thickener or humectant composed of the specific components can enhance the air bubble and foam stabilizing ability of the amino acid-washed facial milk.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present application and not for limiting the scope of protection of the present application, and although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made to the technical solutions of the present application without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims (8)

1. The amino acid facial cleanser is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight: 20-40 parts of surfactant, 8-15 parts of humectant, 5-15 parts of thickener, 0.1-1 part of antioxidant, 0.1-1 part of pH regulator, 0.1-1 part of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.8 part of aromatic, 0.4-1.5 parts of filler, 0.01-0.1 part of chelating agent, 0.01-0.1 part of cooling agent and the balance of deionized water; wherein the surfactant is at least one of potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; the humectant is a mixture of glycerin, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, sodium hyaluronate, octanediol and beta-glucan, and the thickener is a mixture of water, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
2. The amino acid facial cleanser of claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight, per 100 parts by weight: 25-35 parts of surfactant, 10-13 parts of humectant, 8-10 parts of thickener, 0.3-0.7 part of antioxidant, 0.1-0.3 part of pH regulator, 0.3-0.6 part of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.2 part of aromatic, 0.6-1 part of filler, 0.03-0.08 part of chelating agent, 0.03-0.08 part of cooling agent and the balance of deionized water.
3. The amino acid facial cleanser according to claim 1, wherein the humectant comprises the following components, by mass, 45% -65% of glycerin, 20% -45% of methyl propylene glycol, 3% -10% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 3% -10% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1% -1% of caprylyl glycol and 0.0001% -0.003% of ultra-pure beta-glucan; the thickener consists of the following components in percentage by mass, 15-30% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 10-25% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 1-5% of hydroxypropyl starch and the balance of water.
4. The amino acid facial cleanser according to claim 3, wherein the humectant comprises the following components, by mass, 50% -60% of glycerin, 25% -35% of methyl propylene glycol, 5% -8% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 5% -8% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.6% -0.9% of caprylyl glycol, and 0.0005% -0.0025% of ultra-pure beta-glucan; the thickener consists of the following components in percentage by mass, 22-28% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 17-23% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 2-4% of hydroxypropyl starch and the balance of water.
5. The amino acid facial cleanser according to claim 4, wherein the humectant comprises the following components in percentage by mass, 53% of glycerin, 33% of methyl propylene glycol, 6.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 6.6% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.798% of octanediol and 0.002% of ultra-pure beta-glucan; the thickener comprises the following components in percentage by mass, 25% of acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, 20% of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 3% of hydroxypropyl starch and the balance of water.
6. The amino acid facial cleanser of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the sodium hyaluronate is a high affinity sodium hyaluronate.
7. The amino acid facial cleanser according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by at least one of the following (a) - (g):
(a) The antioxidant is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and alkyl dihydric alcohol;
(b) The pH regulator is at least one of citric acid and lactic acid;
(c) The skin conditioner is at least one of betaine salicylic acid, sophorolipid, lignum Santali albi extract, carbon powder, lactic acid and azelaic acid;
(d) The aromatic is daily essence;
(e) The filler is at least one of sodium polyacrylate and kaolin;
(f) The chelating agent is at least one of EDTA disodium, octanoyl hydroxamic acid and sodium phytate;
(g) The cooling agent is at least one of menthol and menthyl lactate.
8. A method of preparing an amino acid facial cleanser according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing the surfactant, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer in the thickener, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and hydroxypropyl starch, glycerin in the humectant, methyl propylene glycol and deionized water, and fully stirring at 65-80 ℃ at 20-35rpm;
(2) Cooling the mixture obtained in the step (1) to room temperature, adding the skin conditioning agent, the cooling agent, the aromatic, the pH regulator, the antioxidant, the chelating agent, the filler and the 1, 2-hexanediol in the humectant, the sodium hyaluronate, the octanediol and the beta-glucan into a main material pot, keeping the stirring speed at 25-40rpm, and uniformly stirring to obtain the amino acid oil-control facial cleanser.
CN202310404802.8A 2023-04-17 2023-04-17 Amino acid facial cleanser, and preparation method and application thereof Pending CN116370349A (en)

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CN108992364A (en) * 2018-07-25 2018-12-14 广州依露美化妆品有限公司 A kind of moisturizing mildy wash containing sodium lauroyl glutamate
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