CN116370327A - Acne-removing azelaic acid mousse face cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Acne-removing azelaic acid mousse face cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116370327A CN116370327A CN202310560080.5A CN202310560080A CN116370327A CN 116370327 A CN116370327 A CN 116370327A CN 202310560080 A CN202310560080 A CN 202310560080A CN 116370327 A CN116370327 A CN 116370327A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- acne
- azelaic acid
- skin
- cream
- mousse
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
Landscapes
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- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention relates to an azelaic acid mousse face cream capable of removing acnes and a preparation method thereof, wherein the face cream comprises 10-20% of azelaic acid by mass percent and is mousse face cream for reducing the irritation of azelaic acid to skin from a stratum surface. And the skin irritation caused by azelaic acid is reduced by matching with the repairing anti-allergic component. Including skin conditioning agents: the mixture of purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, alpha-bisabolol and allantoin is 2:2:2:1 by mass, and the mass fraction of the mixture is 5% -10%. The invention has the advantages that: the mousse structure is formed when the mousse is used, the mousse is large in quantity, durable and easy to smear, and multiple components complement each other, so that the skin irritation caused by azelaic acid can be effectively reduced under the same effects of acne removal, oil control and blackhead acne removal. The preferred raw materials comprise azelaic acid with obvious antibacterial and acne removing effects and repairing and antiallergic components: purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, alpha-bisabolol and allantoin. Can effectively reduce the irritation of azelaic acid to skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to azelaic acid mousse face cream capable of removing acnes and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Vaccinia, medically known as acne, its formation and development includes the following stages: firstly, the hair follicle and the keratinocytes of the skin around the hair follicle are excessively proliferated and keratinized, so that sebum secreted by sebaceous glands can not be smoothly discharged, and micro acne is formed; secondly, the sebaceous glands excessively secrete sebum, bacteria start to multiply, the sebum and the bacteria are blocked below the surface layer of the skin to form comedones, and if the comedones contact air, the comedones form comedones after being oxidized; thirdly, bacteria proliferate in large quantities (mainly propionibacterium acnes), the irritating fatty acids produced by propionibacterium acnes lipase destroy hair follicles, leading to leukocytosis, and thus to mild inflammation and localized redness, i.e. papules; finally, bacteria continue to multiply in large numbers, and inflammation progresses increasingly, so that a pustule is formed, and if the skin bottom is damaged by invasion, more serious nodules and cysts are formed, so that acne marks and scars are left.
The acne-removing skin care product mainly acts on lighter acnes, namely micro acne and acne stages. Micro-acne and comedo are the core of acne, and are also the origin of papules, pustules, nodules, cysts, mainly caused by abnormal keratinization of epidermal cells, keratinization, increased cell adhesion, dilating the pilosebaceous canal, and reduced hair follicle diameter.
Azelaic acid is effective in inhibiting and killing aerobic and anaerobic bacteria including propionibacterium acnes. Azelaic acid is also a competitive inhibitor of mitochondrial oxidoreductase and 5-alpha reductase, which reduces the excessive secretion of sebum by sebaceous glands. In addition, azelaic acid can reduce synthesis of filiform keratin, prevent excessive keratinization of hair follicle, change maturation and proliferation modes of hair follicle, act on cells arranged on hair follicle, thereby reducing hair follicle 'blockage', and be helpful for preventing blackhead and whitehead. Simultaneously, azelaic acid can inhibit tyrosinase activity and pigment synthesis in abnormal pigment cells, and inhibit DNA synthesis and mitochondrial enzyme activity in abnormal pigment cells, thereby weakening acne marks.
However, azelaic acid has a certain skin irritation, and the combination of an anti-allergic component for caring is considered to reduce the skin irritation caused by azelaic acid.
The Chinese pharmacopoeia records that purslane is cold and sour, and has the effects of clearing heat and detoxicating, stopping bleeding and cooling blood and stopping diarrhea. The modern pharmacological research shows that the purslane has various activities of resisting bacteria, resisting inflammation, easing pain, resisting oxidation, resisting aging, enhancing immunity and the like. The plant polysaccharide and vitamins in the purslane extract can nourish and lubricate the skin, promote the physiological function of epithelial cells to be normalized, and reduce dead skin and horny layer generation caused by dryness; the amino acids can shrink blood vessel, relieve skin, and inhibit dryness. Itching of the skin; the flavone and saponin can remove free radicals, resist oxidation, and delay skin aging.
The chemical structure of glycyrrhetinic acid in dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is similar to that of adrenocortical hormone, and the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate affects ion channels, activates or inhibits enzyme activity, regulates substance metabolism and regulates choline to reduce nerve excitability. As a result, permeability of capillary walls and cell membranes is reduced, inflammatory exudation is reduced, formation and release of histamine and other toxic substances are suppressed, and thus a good anti-inflammatory effect is exerted.
Bisabolol is a component present in chamomile flowers, myrrh trees, which has not only an anti-inflammatory effect, but also proved to have antibacterial activity, anti-irritation, skin protection and repair properties. The 3D skin model proves that the bisabolol can reduce the release of leukotriene LTB4 and interleukin IL-1a, thereby reducing rat paw edema caused by chemical factors, reducing guinea pig erythema caused by ultraviolet rays, reducing the irritation of NaOH and SDS to human skin, and preventing and inhibiting the occurrence of inflammation.
Allantoin can promote the growth of cell tissues, affect the rapid granulation of epidermis and accelerate the renewal process. These properties are particularly pronounced when allantoin is applied to ulcers and suppurative skin, and thus can accelerate wound healing. Allantoin is therefore a good active agent for the treatment of skin lesions. Allantoin can maintain skin moisture and achieve biological balance. Allantoin is also a good cutin treatment agent, and can be used for stripping and metabolizing cutin, providing sufficient water for cell gaps, having good effects on rough and cracked skin and enabling the skin to be smooth and plump, so that the addition of allantoin in acne products can not only greatly improve cutin metabolism, but also accelerate wound healing, reduce allergy and preserve moisture skin care.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides azelaic acid mousse face cream capable of removing acnes and a preparation method thereof, and aims to reduce skin irritation caused by azelaic acid.
The technical solution of the invention is as follows: in order to reduce the irritation of azelaic acid to skin from the stratum surface, an acne-removing face cream is provided, and the acne-removing face cream comprises the azelaic acid with the mass percent of 10-20% and is mousse face cream.
Further, the skin irritation caused by azelaic acid is reduced by compounding with a repairing antiallergic component.
Also included are skin conditioning agents: the mixture of purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, alpha-bisabolol and allantoin is 2:2:2:1 by mass, and the mass fraction of the mixture is 5% -10%.
Specifically, the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
azelaic acid 10-20%
Propellant 5-10%
5 to 10 percent of skin conditioning agent
1 to 10 percent of butanediol
1 to 5 percent of squalane
Emulsifying agent 1-5%
1 to 5 percent of thickening agent
Benzoic acid 0.1-1%
The balance of water.
Preferably, the propellant is one or two of isobutane and propane.
Further preferably, the propellant is a mixture of isobutane and propane, wherein the mass ratio of isobutane is as follows: propane: purslane extract: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: alpha-bisabolol: allantoin=6:2:2:2:2:1.
Further preferably, azelaic acid: isobutane: propane: purslane extract: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: alpha-bisabolol: allantoin=30:6:2:2:2:2:1.
In order to achieve the preparation of mousse face cream, the preparation method comprises the following steps:
A. pretreatment:
1) Adding butanediol and a thickening agent into a first pre-preparing barrel, and uniformly stirring for later use to obtain a pre-prepared substance A;
2) Adding squalane and emulsifier into a second pre-preparing barrel, stirring at 65-75deg.C, and dissolving uniformly to obtain pre-preparing substance B;
B. adding water and benzoic acid into a main preparation tank, adding the pre-prepared substance A into the main preparation tank, heating to 65-75 ℃, and stirring for dissolving uniformly;
C. adding the pre-prepared substance B into a main preparation tank, homogenizing and stirring uniformly; cooling to below 35deg.C, adding azelaic acid and skin conditioner, homogenizing, and stirring.
D. And (3) sampling and checking when the temperature is below 35 ℃, filling after the semi-finished product is qualified, and filling propellant to obtain the finished product face cream.
The invention has the advantages that: the components and the preparation process are reasonable in design, a mousse structure is formed when the mousse is used, the mousse is large in quantity, durable and easy to paint, and multiple components complement each other, so that the skin irritation caused by azelaic acid can be effectively reduced under the same effects of acne removal, oil control and blackhead acne removal. The preferred raw materials comprise azelaic acid with obvious antibacterial and acne removing effects and repairing and antiallergic components: purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, alpha-bisabolol and allantoin. 4 raw materials are prepared from purslane extract: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: alpha-bisabolol: allantoin=2:2:2:1, in combination, is effective in reducing skin irritation by azelaic acid.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples and embodiments.
Examples
100g of azelaic acid mousse cream was prepared using the following materials:
the preparation method of the embodiment 1 and 3 comprises the following steps:
A. pretreatment:
1) Stirring and dispersing butanediol and a thickening agent (methyl cellulose) uniformly to obtain a pre-prepared substance A;
2) Squalane and emulsifying agent (stearyl alcohol polyether-21, stearyl alcohol polyether-2, according to (1-2): 1 ratio) are mixed, stirred and dissolved uniformly at 65-75 ℃ for standby to obtain a pre-prepared substance B;
B. adding water and benzoic acid into the pre-prepared substance A, heating to 65-75 ℃, and stirring for dissolving uniformly;
C. adding the pre-prepared substance B into the B, homogenizing and stirring uniformly; cooling to below 35deg.C, adding azelaic acid and skin conditioner, homogenizing, and stirring.
D. And (5) filling the mixture when the temperature is below 35 ℃, and filling the mixture with a propellant to obtain the finished azelaic acid mousse face cream.
The preparation method of example 2 differs from the preparation methods of examples 1 and 3 in that no propellant is added and the finished product is a cream mass.
The preparation of comparative example 1 differs from that of example 1 in that azelaic acid and skin conditioning agent were not added.
In comparison with the examples and comparative examples, the skin irritation caused by azelaic acid was reduced to some extent by shaping the cream into a mousse shape. Through the effects of multiple skin conditioning agents, the skin redness is effectively relieved under the condition of keeping multiple effects of azelaic acid on shrinking pores, removing blackheads, accelerating vaccinia elimination and the like.
In order to verify the above effects, the following human efficacy experiments were performed.
Summary of the experimental methods:
30 volunteers with second-level and third-level acne skin are selected for the study, the age distribution of the volunteers is 18-30 years, no skin diseases and other major diseases exist in the last three months, no antibiotics and hormone medicines are taken, and the test part is the face. After shaking up the sample, dipping the sample with a cotton swab, and applying the sample on the vaccinia, wherein the sample is used once in the morning and evening and is continuously used for 28 days. And observing skin state and collecting skin basic data before, after, and at 3, 7 and 28 days to evaluate the effects of relieving, shrinking pores, removing blackheads and acne.
Test results:
experimental example 1: pore shrinkage, blackhead removal and acne removal performance evaluation.
Pore count: taking a picture of the facial skin of the subject by using a skin imager, obtaining the numerical value of pores of the test area by analyzing the picture, and analyzing the change of the number of the pores of the test area of the subject at different time points.
Black head area value: and taking a facial skin picture of the subject by using a skin imager, obtaining a nose region blackhead area value by analyzing the picture, and analyzing the change of the nose region blackhead area value of the subject at different time points.
Skin acne volume: taking a picture of the facial skin of the subject by using a skin imager, obtaining the skin acne volume of the subject by analyzing the picture, and analyzing the change of the skin acne volume of the subject at different time points.
The test results are shown in table 1:
according to Table 1, examples 1-3 all have excellent pore-shrinking, blackhead-removing and acne-removing effects as compared with comparative examples. The mousse state enhances the pore shrinking, blackhead removing and acne removing effects of azelaic acid compared with examples 1 and 2. In comparison with examples 1 and 3, the skin conditioner has a certain synergistic effect on pore shrinking, blackhead removing and acne removing effects of azelaic acid.
Experimental example 2: and (5) testing mildness.
The test index is scoring condition of skin pain, burning, allergy or red swelling, 10 score is adopted, 0 indicates no corresponding feeling, 10 indicates that feeling is very obvious, statistical data is averaged, and the larger the number is, the more obvious the representing feeling is.
The test results are shown in table 2:
the comparison of examples 1-3 shows that the mousse structure is formed when the liquid soap is used under the condition of keeping the equivalent acne removing, oil controlling and blackhead removing effects, and the irritation of azelaic acid to skin can be reduced to a certain extent; the compound skin conditioner (purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, alpha-bisabolol and allantoin) can effectively reduce the irritation of azelaic acid to skin.
Experimental example 3: and (5) testing the safety of the patch.
30 subjects were selected for testing using example 1 as the test substance and a blank as the negative control. Selecting qualified patch materials, adopting a closed patch test method, sucking 0.025ml of an object to be tested by a liquid-transfering device, placing the object to be tested in the patch test device, applying the object to be tested on the curved side of the forearm of a subject by using a hypoallergenic adhesive tape externally, removing the object to be tested after 24 hours, observing skin reactions respectively after 0.5 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours of removal, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015). All 30 subjects were negative and had no adverse reactions.
The foregoing is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that modifications and improvements could be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (11)
1. An acne-removing face cream is characterized by comprising a mousse face cream containing azelaic acid.
2. The acne-removing face cream of claim 1, wherein the azelaic acid accounts for 10-20% by mass.
3. The acne-removing cream according to claim 2, further comprising a skin conditioner, wherein the skin conditioner is a mixture of purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, alpha-bisabolol and allantoin in a mass ratio of 2:2:2:1, and the skin conditioner is 5-10% in mass ratio.
4. The acne-removing cream of claim 3, further comprising the following components in mass percent:
propellant 5-10%
1 to 10 percent of butanediol
1 to 5 percent of squalane
Emulsifying agent 1-5%
1 to 5 percent of thickening agent
Benzoic acid 0.1-1%
The balance of water.
5. The acne-removing cream of claim 4, wherein the propellant is one or a mixture of isobutane and propane.
6. The acne-removing cream as claimed in claim 5, wherein the propellant is a mixture of isobutane and propane, and the mass ratio of isobutane is: propane: purslane extract: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: alpha-bisabolol: allantoin=6:2:2:2:2:1.
7. The acne-removing cream as claimed in claim 6, wherein, in terms of mass ratio, the azelaic acid: isobutane: propane: purslane extract: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: alpha-bisabolol: allantoin=30:6:2:2:2:2:1.
8. The acne-removing cream of claim 7, wherein the thickener is methylcellulose.
9. An anti-acne cream according to claim 7, wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of steareth-21 and steareth-2 in a mass ratio (1-2): 1.
10. A method for preparing an anti-acne cream according to any one of claims 4 to 9, comprising the steps of:
A. pretreatment:
1) Adding butanediol and a thickening agent into a first pre-preparing barrel, and uniformly stirring for later use to obtain a pre-prepared substance A;
2) Adding squalane and emulsifier into a second pre-preparing barrel, stirring at 65-75deg.C, and dissolving uniformly to obtain pre-preparing substance B;
B. adding water and benzoic acid into a main preparation tank, adding the pre-prepared substance A into the main preparation tank, heating to 65-75 ℃, and stirring for dissolving uniformly;
C. adding the pre-prepared substance B into a main preparation tank, homogenizing and stirring uniformly; cooling to below 35deg.C, adding azelaic acid and skin conditioner, homogenizing, and stirring.
And D, sampling and checking when the temperature is below 35 ℃, filling after the semi-finished product is qualified, and filling propellant to obtain the acne-removing face cream.
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