CN116219766A - Dyeing and finishing process of imitated woven fabric - Google Patents
Dyeing and finishing process of imitated woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN116219766A CN116219766A CN202310329304.1A CN202310329304A CN116219766A CN 116219766 A CN116219766 A CN 116219766A CN 202310329304 A CN202310329304 A CN 202310329304A CN 116219766 A CN116219766 A CN 116219766A
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- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 35
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 34
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8276—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a dyeing and finishing process of a tatting-like fabric. The dyeing and finishing process of the imitation woven fabric comprises the following steps: the fabric embryo cloth is prepared by degreasing dry cloth, dyeing and shaping a finished product by a one-step method. The fabric manufactured by the dyeing and finishing process has good elasticity, is firm and wear-resistant, and effectively avoids the problem of cloth cover crease caused by uneven cloth cover shrinkage after the woven fabric is dyed.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile, and relates to a dyeing and finishing process of a tatting-like fabric.
Background
The basic requirements of traditional shirts, western-style clothes and western-style trousers are that the stiffness and the shape retention are good, so that the woven fabric is the best choice for preparing the products, especially the pure cotton woven fabric, and still occupies a large market share due to soft hand feeling and comfortable wearing. However, the above products are prone to wrinkling, inelastic and constrained during wear and laundering, which is also a drawback of woven fabric construction. In the knitted fabric structure, the yarns are bent into loops by the knitting needles and are mutually sleeved, and the knitted fabric structure is rich in ductility, so that the knitted fabric is favored. The weft knitting fabric is soft, close-fitting, comfortable to wear and free to move, but has poor stiffness and dimensional stability compared with the woven fabric, while the warp knitting fabric has relatively stable structure and moderate elasticity, not only can overcome the defect of easy wrinkling of the woven fabric, but also has the advantages of softness, comfort, free stretching and the like of the knitted fabric, so that the warp knitting fabric more accords with the trend of the next-generation high-grade outer wearing fabric.
The woven fabric is intended to be elastic, spandex is generally added, but the fabric containing spandex has a risk of breaking the spandex for a long time. The warp-knitted imitation woven fabric does not use spandex, and in order to increase the elasticity of the fabric, PBT/PET double composite yarns are adopted, so that the obtained fabric has better elasticity, is very wide, is not wrinkled, is firm and wear-resistant compared with the woven fabric.
However, the existing PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric has the risk of cloth surface crease caused by uneven cloth surface shrinkage after dyeing in the production process, because the PBT/PET is double-composite yarn, the fiber is formed by parallel composite spinning of two different polyester fibers, and the shrinkage ratio of the two fibers is different, the fiber can generate permanent three-dimensional curl, so that the fiber has excellent elasticity. Fabrics made of PBT/PET composite elastic fiber should theoretically have good heat shrinkage and fluffiness, and the larger the PBT/PET double composite yarn content is, the more severe the heat shrinkage is, resulting in serious fabric surface folding marks. But different weave structures have limitations on the shrinkage of the fibers. Fabrics with sparse weave structures shrink more easily than fabrics with compact structures because of the large voids between the yarns of the fabrics with sparse structures, small interactions, and the possibility and space for free movement of the fibers, the shrinkage rules of which are similar to those of filaments. The fabric has a sparse structure, high heat shrinkage rate, high utilization rate of fiber shrinkage and a compact structure, and is unfavorable for fiber shrinkage.
CN106149425a discloses a dyeing and finishing method of cotton-polyester blended fabric, comprising the following steps: s1, pretreatment, S2, dyeing, S3, softness, shrink prevention, S4 and shaping; the pretreatment step comprises cold piling, oxygen bleaching and mercerizing processes in sequence, and the dyeing step adopts a disperse bath method for dyeing with disperse dye and reactive dye. The dyeing and finishing method of the cotton-polyester blended fabric is simple, energy-saving and low in consumption, uniform in dyeing, high in color fastness, plump in color and soft in hand feeling. However, the process cannot effectively avoid the problem of cloth cover crease caused by uneven cloth cover shrinkage after fabric dyeing when dyeing and finishing the PBT/PET double composite yarn.
CN107503200a discloses a dyeing and finishing process of nylon fabric. The dyeing and finishing process of the nylon fabric comprises the following steps: 1) Oil removal and pre-shaping by a one-step method: deoiling the nylon grey cloth by using a deoiling agent, and carrying out high-temperature tentering and predefining on the nylon grey cloth by the same machine; 2) Dyeing: placing the nylon fabric subjected to degreasing and pre-shaping in a dye liquor, and heating to 90-100 ℃ for dyeing; 3) Shaping: shaping the dyed nylon fabric; 4) High-temperature compression molding: and (3) carrying out high-temperature compression molding on the shaped nylon fabric. The dyeing and finishing process of the nylon fabric is more environment-friendly and energy-saving; the molding color of the prepared nylon fabric is reduced, and the whiteness after molding can reach more than 151; the problems of yellowing after molding, fluorescent flowers, yellow spots and other cloth surface quality are effectively prevented; the compression molding color becomes smaller; the dyed nylon fabric has no defects, the washing fastness and the light fastness reach more than 4 levels, the phenol yellow color fastness grade reaches more than 4 levels, and the product has good dimensional stability and soft hand feeling. However, according to the dyeing and finishing process for high-temperature tentering pre-shaping, the PBT/PET double-composite yarn is pre-shaped at a high temperature of 170-200 ℃ in a stretched state, the fiber state is fixed, and the shrinkage change of the PBT/PET double-composite yarn is small during high-temperature high-pressure dyeing, so that the fabric prepared by the process has poor elasticity, hard handfeel, light and thin gram weight and the like, and cannot meet the basic requirements of shirts, western-style clothes and western-style trousers.
Therefore, development of a dyeing and finishing process for a woven fabric is urgently required.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a dyeing and finishing process of a woven fabric, and the manufactured fabric has good elasticity, is firm and wear-resistant, and effectively avoids the problem of cloth surface crease caused by uneven cloth surface shrinkage after the woven fabric is dyed.
To achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
one of the purposes of the invention is to provide a dyeing and finishing process of a tatting-like fabric, which comprises the following steps: the fabric embryo cloth is prepared by degreasing dry cloth, dyeing and shaping a finished product by a one-step method.
Compared with the traditional dyeing and finishing process, the dyeing and finishing process provided by the invention has the advantages that the PBT/PET double-composite yarn elastic Poly fabric is restrained by one-step degreasing and drying, and is severely shrunk by heating, the coils are uniformly shrunk and orderly arranged, so that the degree of the shrink of the heated PBT/PET double-composite yarn elastic Poly fabric by heating is relieved, and the problem of fold and death marks caused by uneven shrinkage of the heated cloth cover after falling into a vat is avoided; the fabric manufactured by the dyeing and finishing process has good elasticity, is firm and wear-resistant, is firm and is not wrinkled, and the problem of cloth cover crease caused by uneven cloth cover shrinkage after the woven fabric is dyed is effectively avoided.
The fabric blank is a PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric;
preferably, in the PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric, the mass ratio of PBT to PET is (20-30): 70-80; for example, the PBT accounts for 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30% and the like of the PBT/PET double composite yarn fabric, and the sum of the PBT and the PET is 100%.
Preferably, the fabric blank is woven by using a warp knitting plain weave.
The one-step method for removing the oil and the dry cloth comprises the following specific processes: carrying out degreasing preshrinking on the fabric blank cloth by adopting a degreasing agent at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, washing the fabric blank cloth with water, and then baking the fabric blank cloth at the temperature of 105-115 ℃ for low-temperature tentering and drying the fabric blank cloth for 20-30s; for example, the low-temperature tentering and drying time is 20s, 21s, 22s, 23s, 24s, 25s, 26s, 27s, 28s, 29s, 30s, etc. under the temperature conditions of 105 ℃, 106 ℃, 107 ℃, 108 ℃, 109 ℃, 110 ℃, 111 ℃, 112 ℃, 113 ℃, 114 ℃, 115 ℃.
Preferably, the washing is performed for 3 times, and the conditions of the washing are as follows: the time of each water washing is 1-2min, such as 1min, 1.1min, 1.2min, 1.4min, 1.5min, 1.6min, 1.8min, 2min, etc., and the water washing temperature is 68-72deg.C, such as 68deg.C, 69 deg.C, 70 deg.C, 71 deg.C, 72 deg.C, etc.; the tension ratio is 98-101, such as 98, 99, 100, 101, and the speed ratio is 15-20, such as 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, etc.
Preferably, the degreasing agent is LYS degreasing agent; further, the oil removing agent is used in an amount of 1 to 5g/L, for example, 1g/L, 2g/L, 3g/L, 4g/L, 5g/L, etc.
The dyeing process comprises the following steps: soaking the PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric subjected to one-step degreasing and drying in a rope-shaped loose state in a high-pressure overflow dyeing tank with a high temperature of between 130 and 135 ℃ of between 2.5 and 3.0Bar for dyeing for 20 to 40 minutes; for example, dyeing is performed under high pressure conditions of 130 ℃, 131 ℃, 132 ℃, 133 ℃, 134 ℃, 135 ℃,2.5Bar, 2.6Bar, 2.7Bar, 2.8Bar, 2.9Bar, 3Bar for 25min, 30min, 35min, 40min, etc.
Preferably, the mass of the dye in the dye vat accounts for 0.1-10% of the mass of the PBT/PET double composite yarn fabric, for example, when the dye is dark, the mass ratio of the dye is 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% and the like; when dyeing light color, the mass ratio of the dye is 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% and the like.
Preferably, the dye is selected from any one or a combination of at least two of disperse yellow S-2R, disperse red LSF and disperse dark green SG.
The dyeing and finishing process includes the steps of eliminating oil from the fabric blank, dyeing and setting Wen Chengpin.
Preferably, the bath ratio at the time of dyeing is 1:6-1:15, for example 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10, 1:11, 1:12, 1:13, 1:14, 1:15, preferably 1:12.
Preferably, the high-temperature product is shaped at 160-180deg.C, such as 160 deg.C, 161 deg.C, 162 deg.C, 163 deg.C, 164 deg.C, 165 deg.C, 166 deg.C, 167 deg.C, 168 deg.C, 169 deg.C, 170 deg.C, 171 deg.C, 172 deg.C, 173 deg.C, 174 deg.C, 175 deg.C, 176 deg.C, 177 deg.C, 178 deg.C, 179 deg.C, 180 deg.C, etc.
The dyeing and finishing process includes the steps of eliminating oil from the fabric blank, dyeing, setting the half-product to Wen Ban, washing with dye vat fastness, and setting the low temperature product.
The specific process for determining the height Wen Ban of the semi-finished product is as follows: pre-shaping the dyed PBT/PET double composite yarn fabric at a high temperature of 160-180 ℃, such as 160 ℃, 165 ℃, 170 ℃, 175 ℃, 180 ℃ and the like; the speed ratio is 15-20, such as 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, etc.; overfeed ratios are 10-20%, for example 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, etc.
The shaping conditions of the low-temperature finished product are as follows: the temperature is 100-120deg.C, such as 100deg.C, 101 deg.C, 102 deg.C, 103 deg.C, 104 deg.C, 105 deg.C, 106 deg.C, 107 deg.C, 108 deg.C, 109 deg.C, 110 deg.C, 111 deg.C, 112 deg.C, 113 deg.C, 114 deg.C, 115 deg.C, 116 deg.C, 117 deg.C, 118 deg.C, 119 deg.C, 120 deg.C, etc., and the speed ratio is 15-20, such as 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, etc.; overfeed ratios are 5-15%, for example 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, etc.
A softening agent is also added in the shaping process of the low-temperature finished product.
Preferably, the softening agent is any one of soft oil S150, soft oil P, TM200 or a mixture of at least two of them.
Preferably, the mass concentration of the softening agent is 3-8g/L, for example 3g/L, 4g/L, 5g/L, 6g/L, 7g/L, 8g/L, etc.
The second object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric imitated by the manufacturing method according to one of the objects.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the fabric manufactured by the dyeing and finishing process has good elasticity, is firm and wear-resistant, and effectively avoids the problem of cloth cover crease caused by uneven cloth cover shrinkage after the woven fabric is dyed. Specifically, the prepared fabric has the advantages of wide hand feeling, high elasticity, 20-26% of longitudinal elongation, 50-51% of transverse elongation, 4.5 level of wear resistance, 4.5 level of crochet yarn and 4-4.5 level of flatness.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the structure of a loop of pile warp and pile weave according to example 1 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a diagram of the yarn laying motion of the warp and pile plain weave of example 1 of the present invention;
fig. 3 is a schematic flow chart of the dyeing and finishing process of example 1.
Detailed Description
The technical scheme of the invention is further described below by means of specific embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings 1-3.
The various starting materials of the present invention are commercially available, or may be prepared according to methods conventional in the art, unless specifically indicated.
The dyeing and finishing process of the imitation woven fabric comprises the following steps: the fabric embryo cloth is prepared by degreasing dry cloth, dyeing and shaping a finished product by a one-step method.
Example 1
In this embodiment, taking a warp and pile plain weave in a trousers fabric as an example, the dyeing and finishing process of the tatting-like fabric is specifically as follows:
(1) Knitting the pile plain weave to obtain a fabric blank, wherein knitting conditions are shown in table 1, the GB1 yarn is common PET, and the yarn manufacturer is east and beautiful and the origin is Thailand; the GB2 yarn is a PBT/PET blended yarn, and the yarn manufacturer is Dongli, jiangsu in the producing area. The stitch structure is warp and pile flat, the coil structure is shown in figures 1 and 2, the extension line with a longer GB2 is bound by the short extension line of GB1, the fabric structure is stable, the fuzzing and pilling resistance performance is good, the hand feeling is stiff, wherein figure 1 is a coil structure diagram of the warp and pile flat stitch, and figure 2 is a yarn-laying movement diagram of the warp and pile flat stitch.
The grey cloth woven by the warp and pile plain weave with smaller warp let-off amount has compact structure, the grey cloth is heated and contracted in the dyeing and finishing process, the GB1 yarn has low boiling water shrinkage rate, is positioned on the surface layer of the fabric and is easy to fully shrink, the GB2 yarn has high boiling water shrinkage rate, and is positioned on the inner layer of the fabric, the fabric has compact structure and low utilization rate of fiber shrinkage, so that the fiber shrinkage of the fabric in the dyeing and finishing process by using the yarn with high boiling water shrinkage rate is limited.
TABLE 1 warp knitting conditions
(2) One-step deoiling dry cloth
The PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric blank is passed through a degreasing agent solution slurry tank, the fabric blank is degreased and preshrinked at 70 ℃ by adopting a three-pressure roller, the fabric is prevented from being severely shrunk and uneven due to heating, 3g/L LYS degreasing agent is added into the washing liquid of the first tank, the knitted fabric is continuously and loosely washed for 3 times in an open width manner, and the washing time of each time is as follows: 1.5min, the washing temperature is as follows: 70 ℃, 70 ℃ and tension ratio: 100, the speed ratio is: 18. the imitative woven fabric after the degreasing treatment is baked at the temperature of 110 ℃ of the same machine for low-temperature tentering and drying for 25 seconds. The imitated woven fabric is easy to shrink and deform severely after being heated, so that uneven dead marks and folds are generated on the cloth cover of the fabric, the PBT/PET double-composite yarn elastic Poly fabric is restrained by open width deoiling and low temperature tentering and drying, and is shrunk severely by heating, the coils are shrunk evenly and tidily, the degree of heated shrinkage of the PBT/PET double-composite yarn elastic Poly is relieved, and accordingly the dead marks caused by uneven shrinkage of the cloth cover after being dyed by a dropping cylinder are avoided.
(3) Dyeing
After degreasing and drying cloth, the PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric is obviously slowed down in shrinkage under the dyeing temperature of 110 ℃, and is soaked in a high-temperature high-pressure overflow dye vat for 30min in a rope-shaped loose state, so that the PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric is fully retracted in the dye vat, and the effects of good elasticity, firmness, wear resistance and the like of the fabric are achieved, and a specific dyeing process is shown in figure 3.
(4) Half-finished product height Wen Ban
The PBT/PET double-composite-yarn elastic Poly fabric is fully contracted in a cylinder under high temperature and high pressure, the cloth surface can be slightly wrinkled after being dyed out of the cylinder, the semi-finished product is high Wen Ban and returns to a preset shape, the temperature is 170 ℃, and the feeding is performed: 15%, the speed ratio is: 20, the elastic Poly fabric is easy to shrink and deform under the high temperature condition, so that the wrinkles generated by the fabric are not well eliminated, and the wrinkles can be reduced or eliminated after being pre-shaped, so that the cloth cover is flat and the specification is stable.
(5) Dye vat fastness washing water
When the semi-finished product is high Wen Ban, and the disperse material is dyed into a medium-deep color system, the dye component is 6%, and the PBT/PET double-composite yarn Poly fabric has poor washing fastness due to the fact that the disperse dye sublimates and diffuses on the surface of the fiber in a high-temperature state, so that the fastness of the PBT/PET double-composite yarn Poly fabric is washed by washing water after being returned to a cylinder, and the washing fastness is improved; wherein, when the disperse material is dyed with light color series, the dye component is 0.5 percent.
(6) Shaping of low-temperature finished products
In order to prevent the fastness from being lowered, the setting temperature setting standards are: overfeeding at 110 ℃): 10%, the speed ratio is: 18, the water-absorbing quick-drying slurry adopts 5g/L softener TM200.
The specific specification parameters of each step are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Example 2
The present example was different from example 1 in the knitting method, and the knitting conditions were as shown in table 3, and the other was the same as example 1.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Example 3
The present example was different from example 1 in the knitting method, and the knitting conditions were as shown in table 4, and the other was the same as example 1.
TABLE 4 Table 4
Comparative example 1
The fabric of the comparative example is prepared by adopting the following process: the specific process comprises the steps of embryo cloth, cylinder degreasing, gao Wending embryo, dyeing and finished product preparation, wherein the specific process comprises the following steps:
the PBT/PET double composite yarn Poly fabric is put into (penetrant L1062A) and (degreasing agent Lys) with the initial temperature of 40 ℃, is heated to 90 ℃ according to 0.5 ℃/min, is heated to 110 ℃ according to 1 ℃/min, is insulated for 10min, is cooled to 50 ℃ according to 1 ℃/min, is washed for 8min at 50 ℃, is drained, and the dye vat degreasing process is completed.
Shaping the embryo cloth: the temperature is 180 ℃, overfeeding: 15%, the speed ratio is: 20, the specific parameters are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
Comparative example 2
The comparative example differs from example 1 in that the blank was not subjected to the degreasing step (2), dyeing, high Wen Ban setting, vat fastness washing, low temperature finished product setting, and the other steps are the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that the sequence of dyeing and setting, i.e., setting before dyeing, the embryo cloth- & gt oil removal by oil removal machine- & gt drying cloth- & gt Gao Wending embryo- & gt dyeing- & gt finished product is exchanged, otherwise identical to example 1.
The fabrics prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 were subjected to performance tests, and the test results are shown in Table 6.
Specifically, the test method for each performance is as follows:
hand feel assessment:
warp knitted fabrics have both the stiffness of woven fabrics and the softness relative to woven fabrics, and are comfortable to wear, so that hand feel assessment adopts a grading method for soft feel. The grading score is similar to the principle of scoring rank by experts in life, and the basic characteristics of a certain hand feel (such as softness) of a fabric are graded on a selected scale. 3 textile industry technicians were selected to perform a touch feel on the fabrics provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3, and a comprehensive evaluation of the fabric hand feel rating was performed by a human hand's response to the touch of the fabric and a visual impression of the fabric appearance. The hand feeling evaluation method of one-pinching, two-touch, three-grabbing and four-watching simultaneously forms a set of special terms such as stiffness, softness, fluffiness, compactness, fineness, coarseness, elasticity, collaterals, itching, puncturing, poking, smoothness, softness, crispness, liveness, roughness, dryness, plate and the like.
The fabric elasticity test method comprises the following steps:
referring to LTD-03 tensile test method (Victoria's Secret client specific test), the standard is the elongation of the knitted fabric under the appointed tensile force caused by the test; the test sample size was 9X 3inch, the fabrics provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 were taken in both the transverse and longitudinal directions, the tensile machine used was a H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine of Zwick/Roell, a force of 7.5lb was used, the middle nip was 127mm, the stretching speed was 20in/min, and the two times of cyclic stretching were performed, the larger the obtained values were, the better the elasticity was.
Abrasion resistance test:
the testing method comprises the following steps: with reference to the second part of the measurement of pilling performance of GB/T4802.2-2008 textile fabrics, the fabrics provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 were tested under a YG401G Martindale instrument for crocheting, the test sample size was a circular pattern with a diameter of 140.+ -. 0.5mm, and the circular pattern on the pattern holder was rubbed with the abrasive on the grinding table according to Li Sharu curve under a pressure of 9.+ -. 0.2 kPa. The pattern is free to rotate about a central axis perpendicular to the pattern plane. After 2500 revolutions of friction, the fuzzing and pilling grade of the pattern is rated in a visual description mode, wherein the grade is from 1 to 5, the grade is the best, and the grade is the worst. Specifically, the grade state 5 is unchanged, the grade state 4 is slightly fluffed and/or slightly pilled, the grade state 3 is moderately fluffed and/or moderately pilled, the balls with different sizes and densities cover part of the surface of the pattern, the grade state 2 is obviously fluffed and/or pilled, the balls with different sizes and densities cover most of the surface of the pattern, the grade state 1 is severely fluffed and/or pilled, and the balls with different sizes and densities cover the whole surface of the pattern.
Yarn hooking test:
the testing method comprises the following steps: with reference to BS-8479 test method of textile spinning tendency measurement method-spin room method, the fabrics provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 were subjected to a crochet test under James Heal Snagging Tester instrument, the test sample size was 140 x 140mm, the forward rotation was 50 rotations at 60r/min, the reverse rotation was 50 rotations, the cycle was 10 times, and the total was 1000 rotations, and then the samples were taken out and compared with standard rating photographs, and the crochet rating was evaluated, with the rating from 1-5, with the rating being the best, and the rating being the worst.
Crease (flatness) evaluation:
the folds are divided into two types, namely a live fold and a dead fold, wherein the dead fold is a permanent fold which cannot be eliminated, so that defective cloth is reduced, and the appearance flatness of the fabric is affected to a certain extent. The test was carried out according to the appearance of AATCC 124-2009 after repeated home laundering of the garment with other textile products. The textile fabrics provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 were tested according to the test methods described above, with a rating from 1-5, with 5 being the best and 1 being the worst.
TABLE 6
As can be seen from Table 6, the tatting-like textile fabric obtained by the dyeing and finishing process provided by the invention has good stiffness, better elasticity, difficult yarn hooking and wear resistance, stable flatness of the cloth cover, and particularly, the prepared textile fabric has the advantages of stiff hand feel, high elasticity, 20-26% of longitudinal elongation, 50-51% of transverse elongation, 4.5 level of wear resistance, 4.5 level of yarn hooking and 4-4.5 level of flatness, and is superior to the prior art process.
The detailed process equipment and process flow of the present invention are described by the above embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to, i.e., it does not mean that the present invention must be practiced depending on the detailed process equipment and process flow. It should be apparent to those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitution of raw materials for the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., falls within the scope of the present invention and the scope of disclosure.
The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail above, but the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments, and various simple modifications can be made to the technical solution of the present invention within the scope of the technical concept of the present invention, and all the simple modifications belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
In addition, the specific features described in the above embodiments may be combined in any suitable manner, and in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, various possible combinations are not described further.
Moreover, any combination of the various embodiments of the invention can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, which should also be considered as disclosed herein.
Claims (10)
1. The dyeing and finishing process of the imitation woven fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of: the fabric embryo cloth is prepared by degreasing dry cloth, dyeing and shaping a finished product by a one-step method.
2. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fabric blank is a PBT/PET double composite yarn fabric;
preferably, in the PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric, the mass ratio of PBT to PET is (20-30): 70-80;
preferably, the fabric blank is woven by using a warp knitting plain weave.
3. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the one-step degreasing dry cloth comprises the following steps: carrying out degreasing preshrinking on the fabric blank cloth by adopting a degreasing agent at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, washing the fabric blank cloth with water, and then baking the fabric blank cloth at the temperature of 105-115 ℃ for low-temperature tentering and drying the fabric blank cloth for 20-30s;
preferably, the washing is performed for 3 times, and the conditions of the washing are as follows: the washing time is 1-2min, the washing temperature is 68-72 ℃, the tension ratio is 98-101, and the speed ratio is 15-20;
preferably, the degreasing agent is LYS degreasing agent;
preferably, the oil removing agent is used in an amount of 1-5 g/L.
4. A dyeing and finishing process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the dyeing process is: soaking the PBT/PET double-composite yarn fabric subjected to one-step degreasing and drying in a rope-shaped loose state in a high-pressure overflow dyeing tank with a high temperature of between 130 and 135 ℃ of between 2.5 and 3.0Bar for dyeing for 20 to 40 minutes;
preferably, the mass of the dye in the dye vat accounts for 0.1-10% of the mass of the PBT/PET double composite yarn fabric;
preferably, the dye is selected from any one or a combination of at least two of disperse yellow S-2R, disperse red LSF and disperse dark green SG;
preferably, the bath ratio is 1:6 to 1:15, preferably 1:12, when dyeing.
5. Dyeing and finishing process according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises the steps of degreasing the fabric blank by a one-step method, dyeing, shaping at a height of Wen Chengpin;
preferably, the shaping temperature of the high-temperature finished product is 160-180 ℃.
6. Dyeing and finishing process according to one of claims 1-4, characterized in that it comprises the steps of degreasing the fabric blank in one step, dyeing, setting the semi-finished product at a high Wen Ban level, washing the dye vat fastness, setting the low-temperature finished product.
7. The dyeing and finishing process according to claim 6, wherein the specific process of setting the half-finished product height Wen Ban is as follows: the dyed PBT/PET double composite yarn fabric is preformed at a high temperature of 160-180 ℃ with a speed ratio of 15-20 and an overfeed ratio of 10-20%.
8. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 6, characterized in that the conditions for shaping the low-temperature product are: the temperature is 100-120 ℃, the speed ratio is 15-20, and the overfeed ratio is 5-15%.
9. Dyeing and finishing process according to claim 8, characterized in that a softening agent is added during the shaping of the low-temperature product;
preferably, the softening agent is any one or a mixture of at least two of soft oil S150 and soft oil P, TM 200;
preferably, the mass concentration of the softening agent is 3-8g/L.
10. A simulated woven fabric produced by the dyeing and finishing process of any one of claims 1-9.
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