CN116219612A - 羊绒圈纱梭织围巾及其生产工艺 - Google Patents

羊绒圈纱梭织围巾及其生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN116219612A
CN116219612A CN202211632584.5A CN202211632584A CN116219612A CN 116219612 A CN116219612 A CN 116219612A CN 202211632584 A CN202211632584 A CN 202211632584A CN 116219612 A CN116219612 A CN 116219612A
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yarns
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范秀荣
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INNER MONGOLIA KINGDEER CASHMERE CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种羊绒圈纱梭织围巾及其生产工艺，其中生产工艺包括：将固纱、粗纺羊绒段染饰纱编织在精纺涤纶芯纱上，形成羊绒圈纱；将粗纺羊绒纱及羊绒圈纱根据经向花型要求及整经工艺整在经轴上，将整经后的经纱穿综，将穿综后的经纱根据经密要求所选用的筘号及每筘穿入数穿筘；将完成穿综、穿筘工序的经轴装在织机上，根据纹板图制做纹板，并根据纬密要求及纬向花型要求进行织造坯布；后整理制得羊绒圈纱梭织围巾。本发明得到的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾既有羊绒围巾产品柔软、滑糯、蓬松的体感，又充分利用羊绒段染圈纱的色彩丰富及立体感强的特性，使羊绒圈纱梭织围巾具有丰富的表现力。

Description

羊绒圈纱梭织围巾及其生产工艺
技术领域
本发明属于羊绒纺织技术领域，具体涉及一种羊绒圈纱梭织围巾及其生产工艺。
背景技术
随着羊绒行业的飞速发展，被誉为“软黄金”的羊绒产品走进千家万户，羊绒产品除了具有羊绒纤维自身得天独厚的轻柔、滑腻、透气、保暖等内在品质外，外观设计也从最初的简洁大方、经典高雅逐渐融入了一些青春朝气的元素。
近几年花式纱线的发展比较迅速，但是，如何将花式纱线运用在羊绒产品上是目前的技术难题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种羊绒圈纱梭织围巾及生产工艺，得到的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾既有羊绒围巾产品柔软、滑糯、蓬松的体感，又充分利用羊绒段染圈纱的色彩丰富及立体感强的特性，使羊绒圈纱梭织围巾具有丰富的表现力。
技术方案如下：
羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，包括
将固纱、粗纺羊绒段染饰纱编织在精纺涤纶芯纱上，形成羊绒圈纱；将粗纺羊绒纱及羊绒圈纱根据经向花型要求及整经工艺整在经轴上，将整经后的经纱穿综，将穿综后的经纱根据经密要求所选用的筘号及每筘穿入数穿筘；将完成穿综、穿筘工序的经轴装在织机上，根据纹板图制做纹板，并根据纬密要求及纬向花型要求进行织造坯布；
后整理制得羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，其中，对坯布进行缩绒，洗缩温度为35-40℃，洗缩过程中洗缩剂用量为对织物重2-4％，缩绒时间为1～3min；对坯布进行柔软处理，柔软过程中柔软剂用量为对织物重1-3％，平滑剂用量为对织物重1-3％，处理时间10-20min；对坯布自由状态下进行烘干，烘干温度100-120℃，坯布平铺于烫案上，上方蒸汽熨斗给汽熨烫，下方烫案抽冷定型，熨烫温度110～140℃。
进一步，坯布生产过程中，粗纺羊绒圈纱上机经密66～85根/10cm，上机纬密66～85根/10cm，上机幅宽37～66cm，总经根数245～560根。
进一步，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为26/2～32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱中精纺涤纶芯纱及固纱的支数为120/2Nm，粗纺羊绒段染饰纱的支数为26/2-32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱整体支数为3.6/1～8.5/1Nm。
进一步，粗纺羊绒纱捻度为420/235～460/235T/M。
进一步，后整理过程中，缩率的长缩为19％～25％，宽缩为20％～26％。
羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，经纱、纬纱均为粗纺羊绒纱与羊绒圈纱，粗纺羊绒纱支数为26/2-32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱支数为8.5/1-3.6/1Nm，羊绒纤维的含量≥95％。
优选的，羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的重量为160-205g/m2。
优选的，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为26/2～32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱的支数为3.6/1～8.5/1Nm。
本发明技术效果包括：
本发明得到的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，既有羊绒围巾产品柔软、滑糯、蓬松的体感，又充分利用羊绒段染圈纱的色彩丰富及立体感强的特性，使羊绒圈纱梭织围巾具有丰富的表现力，给传统的羊绒披肩增添了变化的设计元素，丰富了羊绒产品的品类。
具体实施方式
以下描述充分地示出本发明的具体实施方案，以使本领域的技术人员能够实践和再现。
羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，包括以下生产过程：
(1)、纱线生产
a、粗纺羊绒纱制备，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为26/2-32/2Nm，粗纺羊绒纱捻度为420/235－460/235T/M。
粗纺羊绒纱制备流程：和毛→梳毛→细纱→络筒→并线→捻线。
b、羊绒圈纱制备。
羊绒圈纱是由精纺涤纶芯纱、固纱及粗纺羊绒段染饰纱加工而成，羊绒圈纱整体支数为3.6/1～8.5/1Nm。
芯纱(支数为120/2Nm)是圈纱的主干，是饰纱的依附体；固纱(支数为120/2Nm)用于将饰纱紧固在芯纱上；饰纱(26/2～32/2Nm)用来形成圈圈纱的花式效应。
芯纱与固纱选用白色(120/2)精纺涤纶纱；饰纱是经过段染的支数26/2～32/2Nm粗纺羊绒纱线。
(2)、坯布生产；
坯布生产工艺流程为：整经→穿综→穿筘→纹板制做→织造→修补→检验；坯布生产过程中，粗纺羊绒圈纱围巾上机经密(66～85)根/10cm，上机纬密(66～85)根/10cm，上机幅宽(37～66)cm，总经根数(245～560)根。
a、整经：将上述(1)中制成的粗纺羊绒纱及羊绒圈纱根据梭织围巾的经向花型要求及制定的整经工艺整在经轴上；
b、穿综：将整经后的经纱根据羊绒圈纱梭织围巾穿综方法穿综；
c、穿筘：将穿综后的经纱根据羊绒圈梭织围巾经密要求选用合适的筘号及每筘穿入数穿筘；
d、织造：将完成穿综、穿筘工序的经轴装在织机上，调整好织机相关参数，根据纹板图制做纹板，并根据纬密要求及纬向花型要求进行织造，织造完成后的坯布经修补、检验合格后进行后整理加工。
(3)、后整理制得羊绒圈纱梭织围巾。
后整理工艺流程为：洗缩→柔软处理→烘干→整烫。缩率的长缩为19％～25％，宽缩为20％～26％。
具体步骤：
a、对坯布进行缩绒，洗缩温度为35～40℃，洗缩过程中包括有洗缩剂，洗缩剂用量为对织物重2-4％，缩绒时间为1～3min。
b、柔软处理，柔软过程中柔软剂用量为对织物重1-3％，平滑剂用量为对织物重1-3％，处理时间10-20min。
c、烘干，坯布自由状态下进行烘干，烘干温度100-120℃。
d、整烫，坯布平铺于烫案上，上方蒸汽熨斗给汽熨烫，下方烫案抽冷定型，熨烫温度110～140℃。
经上述过程得到羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，该围巾的经纱、纬纱均为粗纺羊绒纱与羊绒圈纱，粗纺羊绒纱支数为26/2-32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱支数为8.5/1-3.6/1Nm，羊绒圈纱梭织围巾中羊绒纤维的含量≥95％，粗纺羊绒圈纱梭织围巾重量为160-205g/m2。
实施1：纯羊绒粗纺珠片纱梭织披肩
1、产品信息
颜色：粗纺羊绒纱为浅灰色，羊绒段染圈纱饰纱为皮粉、浅紫、深紫、天蓝、湖蓝几个色间隔排列。
规格：长度180cm*宽度30cm+穗长7cm*2/重量105克
粗纺羊绒纱捻度为420/235T/M，支数为26/2Nm，羊绒段染圈纱芯线及固线均使用精纺120/2涤纶纱，饰线选用26/2Nm
2、坯布生产
工艺流程：整经→穿综→穿筘→纹板制做→织造→修补→检验。
上机经密66根/10cm，上机纬密66根/10cm,上机幅宽38cm,总经根数255根，整经、穿综、穿筘及织造均安织造工艺要求进行，织造完成后的坯布经修补、检验合格后进行后整理。
3、后整理过程
工艺流程：洗缩→柔软处理→烘干→整烫
对坯布进行洗缩，洗缩温度为35℃，洗缩剂用量为对织物重3％，洗缩时间为3min；对洗缩后坯布进行柔软处理，柔软剂用量为对织物重1.5％，处理时间5min；在自由状态下进行烘干，烘干温度110℃；将烘干后的披肩平铺于烫案上，上方蒸汽熨斗给汽熨烫，下方烫案抽冷定型。
本发明所用的术语是说明和示例性、而非限制性的术语。由于本发明能够以多种形式具体实施而不脱离技术方案的精神或实质，所以应当理解，上述实施例不限于任何前述的细节，而应在随附权利要求所限定的精神和范围内广泛地解释，因此落入权利要求或其等效范围内的全部变化和改型都应为随附权利要求所涵盖。

Claims (8)

1.一种羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，其特征在于，包括
将固纱、粗纺羊绒段染饰纱编织在精纺涤纶芯纱上，形成羊绒圈纱；
将粗纺羊绒纱及羊绒圈纱根据经向花型要求及整经工艺整在经轴上，将整经后的经纱穿综，将穿综后的经纱根据经密要求所选用的筘号及每筘穿入数穿筘；将完成穿综、穿筘工序的经轴装在织机上，根据纹板图制做纹板，并根据纬密要求及纬向花型要求进行织造坯布；
后整理制得羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，其中，对坯布进行缩绒，洗缩温度为35-40℃，洗缩过程中洗缩剂用量为对织物重2-4％，缩绒时间为1～3min；对坯布进行柔软处理，柔软过程中柔软剂用量为对织物重1-3％，平滑剂用量为对织物重1-3％，处理时间10-20min；对坯布自由状态下进行烘干，烘干温度100-120℃，坯布平铺于烫案上，上方蒸汽熨斗给汽熨烫，下方烫案抽冷定型，熨烫温度110～140℃。
2.如权利要求1所述的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，其特征在于，坯布生产过程中，粗纺羊绒圈纱上机经密66～85根/10cm，上机纬密66～85根/10cm，上机幅宽37～66cm，总经根数245～560根。
3.如权利要求1所述的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，其特征在于，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为26/2～32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱中精纺涤纶芯纱及固纱的支数为120/2Nm，粗纺羊绒段染饰纱的支数为26/2-32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱整体支数为3.6/1～8.5/1Nm。
4.如权利要求3所述的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，其特征在于，粗纺羊绒纱捻度为420/235～460/235T/M。
5.如权利要求1所述的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的生产工艺，其特征在于，后整理过程中，缩率的长缩为19％～25％，宽缩为20％～26％。
6.使用权利要求1所述的生产工艺制得的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，其特征在于，经纱、纬纱均为粗纺羊绒纱与羊绒圈纱，粗纺羊绒纱支数为26/2-32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱支数为8.5/1-3.6/1Nm，羊绒纤维的含量≥95％。
7.如权利要求6所述的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，其特征在于，羊绒圈纱梭织围巾的重量为160-205g/m2。
8.如权利要求6所述的羊绒圈纱梭织围巾，其特征在于，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为26/2～32/2Nm，羊绒圈纱的支数为3.6/1～8.5/1Nm。
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