CN115836995A - Preparation method of Manuka tree extract and application of Manuka tree extract in cosmetics - Google Patents
Preparation method of Manuka tree extract and application of Manuka tree extract in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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- CN115836995A CN115836995A CN202210976093.6A CN202210976093A CN115836995A CN 115836995 A CN115836995 A CN 115836995A CN 202210976093 A CN202210976093 A CN 202210976093A CN 115836995 A CN115836995 A CN 115836995A
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P20/00—Technologies relating to chemical industry
- Y02P20/50—Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals
- Y02P20/54—Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals using solvents, e.g. supercritical solvents or ionic liquids
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a preparation method of a manuka tree extract, which comprises the following steps: pulverizing branches and leaves of Manuka, and sieving; extracting with supercritical carbon dioxide; and (4) separating and dissolving. According to the preparation method of the manuka tree extract, the extraction amount of sesquiterpene ketone serving as an effective ingredient in the manuka extract can be increased by adopting carbon dioxide supercritical extraction, so that the manuka tree extract which is safe, non-irritant, efficient and powerful is obtained, and the manuka tree extract is applied to cosmetics and has the effects of inhibiting bacteria and removing acnes. And the double functions of extraction and separation are achieved, and the method has the advantages of simple process flow, high extraction efficiency, no organic solvent residue and no environmental pollution. The obtained Manuka extract can selectively inhibit formation of harmful bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) biofilm, and can help formation of beneficial bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermidis) biofilm, thereby balancing skin microecology.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to a preparation method of a manuka tree extract and application of the manuka tree extract in cosmetics, relates to A61K, and particularly relates to the field of preparations for dressing and making up.
Background
When the mask is worn for a long time, a damp and hot environment is formed at the mouth and nose parts, and the skin is easy to have flora imbalance and grease secretion imbalance, so that the skin problems of red swelling, pox and the like of the facial skin are caused. Traditional acne removing methods can kill some individual bacteria through an antibacterial agent, but the bacteria can be self-protected through the formation of a biological film in which bacteria and fungi can avoid the harm of the antibacterial agent. Some acne removing products also contain acidic components, such as salicylic acid, tretinoin, azelaic acid and the like, and the acne removing effect is realized by dissolving surface grease. However, the acid has high concentration and high irritation, and the long-term use of the acid can easily damage the skin barrier, thereby greatly limiting the application of the acid in acne-removing products. The extract obtained by extracting the Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) tree has the effects of sterilizing and removing acnes, but the current extraction of the Manuka tree adopts a steam distillation mode, so that the defects of long extraction time and high temperature exist, the heat instability and the damage of easily-oxidized active ingredients are easily caused, the yield of the final product is low, and the quality is poor.
The Chinese invention patent CN111700853A discloses a cosmetic composition with anti-allergy repairing effect and application thereof, wherein flowers of Manuka trees are used as extraction raw materials, and a water extraction method is adopted, so that the obtained extract has the anti-allergy repairing effect, but the anti-allergy repairing effect is not related. Chinese invention patent CN112641711A discloses a manuka honey mouthwash and a preparation method thereof, wherein an extract is obtained by steam distillation of manuka honey, which has an effect of adjusting oral flora, but active ingredients are easy to deteriorate at an extraction temperature of 70-95 ℃, resulting in a decrease in antibacterial effect.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to maximally retain active ingredients in the manuka extract and apply the manuka extract to cosmetics with bacteriostatic and acne-removing effects, a first aspect of the application provides a preparation method of the manuka extract, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Taking fresh branches and leaves of the Manuka tree, drying, crushing and putting into an extraction kettle;
(2) Injecting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into an extraction kettle, and extracting for 30-120min at a certain temperature and pressure to obtain extract;
(3) The extract obtained in the step 2 flows into a separator along with carbon dioxide, and is separated under certain pressure and temperature to obtain a collected liquid for later use;
(4) And (4) dissolving the collected liquid obtained in the step (3) in a solvent, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the manuka tree extract solution.
As a preferred embodiment, after the pulverization in the step 1, sieving is needed, the sieve mesh is 40-60 meshes, and undersize products are taken.
As a preferred embodiment, the temperature of the supercritical extraction in the step 2 is 30-50 ℃, and the extraction pressure is 10-30MPa.
As a preferred embodiment, the flow rate of the carbon dioxide in the supercritical extraction in the step 2 is 10-30L/h.
In the experimental process, the applicant finds that the extraction of the manuka (leptospermum scoparium) tree by adopting the supercritical carbon dioxide can improve the extraction amount of the sesquiterpene ketone serving as the active ingredient in the manuka extract, and the manuka extract has the effects of inhibiting bacteria and removing acnes when being applied to cosmetics. The probable reason is guessed that the traditional method for extracting the manuka adopts a steam distillation method, and has the problems of long extraction time, high temperature and inactivation of effective components. The application adopts the carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology, so that the separation of effective components of the branches and leaves of the manuka can be realized at a lower temperature, and the damage of high temperature to the effective components is avoided. And after the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, the collected liquid is dissolved in the C8-C12 fatty alcohol solvent, so that the separation of active ingredients and other substances can be promoted, the sesquiterpene ketone is retained in the extracting solution to the maximum extent, the purity and the content of the sesquiterpene ketone in the extract are improved, and the method has a remarkable effect when being applied to cosmetics.
As a preferred embodiment, the pressure of the separation in the step 3 is 5-15MPa, and the separation temperature is 25-35 ℃.
The applicant further finds that the separation efficiency can be further improved, the dissolution of effective components can be increased, no solvent residue is generated, the next separation pressure is reduced, and the method is safer to apply to cosmetics after the carbon dioxide is adopted for extraction and flows into a separator for pressure separation.
In a preferred embodiment, the solvent in step 4 is an aliphatic alcohol, and preferably, the aliphatic alcohol is an aliphatic alcohol solvent with 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
As a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.
As a preferred embodiment, the mass fraction of the manuka tree extract in the manuka tree extract solution is 1 to 10%.
As a preferred embodiment, the weight fraction of sesquiterpene ketone in the manuka tree extract is 20-40%.
A second aspect of the present application provides a manuka tree extract prepared by the method for preparing a manuka tree extract.
The third aspect of the application provides an application of the manuka tree extract in cosmetics with bacteriostatic acne-removing effects, preferably, the added mass fraction of the manuka tree extract in a cosmetic formula is 0.1-10%.
Compared with the prior art, the method has the following beneficial effects:
(1) According to the preparation method of the manuka tree extract, the extraction amount of the active ingredient sesquiterpene ketone in the manuka extract can be increased by adopting carbon dioxide supercritical extraction, adopting the extraction temperature of 30-50 ℃ and the extraction pressure of 10-30MPa, so that the manuka tree extract which is safe, non-irritant, efficient and powerful is obtained, and the manuka tree extract has the effects of inhibiting bacteria and removing acnes when being applied to cosmetics.
(2) The preparation method of the manuka tree extract adopts supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, and then flows into a separator for 5-15MPa pressure separation, so that the separation efficiency can be further improved, the dissolution of effective components can be increased, the dual effects of extraction and separation can be achieved, and the preparation method has the advantages of simple process flow, high extraction efficiency, no organic solvent residue and no environmental pollution.
(3) The manuka tree extract prepared by the preparation method of the manuka tree extract can selectively inhibit the formation of undesirable bacteria (propionibacterium acnes) biomembranes, and simultaneously helps the formation of the biomembranes of beneficial skin bacteria (staphylococcus epidermidis), thereby achieving the effect of balancing skin microecology.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a SZ95 cell oil red O staining microscopic picture, which is a negative control, examples 1-3 and comparative example 1 from left to right;
FIG. 2 is a comparative graph of sebum level inhibition;
FIG. 3 is a diagram of the regulation of the growth of a bacterial population;
FIG. 4 is a diagram showing regulation of formation of a biofilm of bacterial flora
Fig. 5 is a diagram of acne treatment effect;
figure 6 is a bar graph of the rate of decrease in sebum content of the skin.
Detailed Description
Example 1
A preparation method of Manuka tree extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Taking fresh branches and leaves of the Manuka tree, drying, crushing and putting into an extraction kettle;
(2) Injecting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into an extraction kettle, and extracting for 60min at a certain temperature and pressure to obtain an extract;
(3) The extract obtained in the step 2 flows into a separator along with carbon dioxide, and is separated under certain pressure and temperature to obtain a collected liquid for later use;
(4) And (4) dissolving the collected liquid obtained in the step (3) in a solvent, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the manuka tree extract solution.
And (3) sieving the crushed materials in the step (1) with a sieve mesh of 60 meshes, and taking undersize products.
The temperature of the supercritical extraction in the step 2 is 40 ℃, the extraction pressure is 20MPa, and the flow of carbon dioxide is 15L/h.
The separation pressure in the step 3 is 10MPa, and the separation temperature is 25 ℃.
The solvent in the step 4 is octyl dodecanol. The mass fraction of the manuka tree extract in the manuka tree extract solution is 1%.
Example 2
A method for preparing a manuka tree extract, which comprises the same specific steps as example 1, except that the mass fraction of the manuka tree extract in the manuka tree extract solution is 5%.
Example 3
A method for preparing a manuka tree extract, which comprises the same specific steps as example 1, except that the mass fraction of the manuka tree extract in the manuka tree extract solution is 10%.
Comparative example 1
A preparation method of Manuka tree extract comprises the following steps:
taking fresh branches and leaves of the Manuka tree, naturally drying, crushing, sieving with a 60-mesh sieve, and mixing according to a material-liquid ratio of 1:4 (by weight) adding deionized water, heating and refluxing with an essential oil extractor, timing after the water is boiled, extracting for 60min, collecting essential oil, adding octyldodecanol, stirring, and filtering to obtain a solution containing 5% of Manuka tree extract.
Performance test
1. Sebum content inhibition test: sebaceous gland cell SZ95 sebum content detection test
Sebaceous glands are important accessory organs of the skin, the main functions are to synthesize and secrete sebum, and the inhibition of excessive sebum secretion is one of the main targets for inhibiting the formation of acne.
Selecting SZ95 human sebaceous gland cells cultured in vitro, culturing in DMEM medium, adding 10% newborn fetal calf serum, 100IU/ml penicillin and 100 μ g/ml, placing at 37 deg.C, and 5% CO 2 In the incubator, passage was performed every 3 days. Selecting SZ95 cells in logarithmic phase, discarding culture solution, washing with PBS solution for 1 time, adding 0.25% pancreatin, standing at room temperature for 2min, terminating digestion of the culture solution, centrifuging at 1000rpm for 3min, re-suspending the cells with complete DMEM culture solution, counting, and adjusting cell concentration to 3 × 10 5 And/ml. After 24h, cells were attached to the 48-well plates at 100. Mu.l per well, and the same amounts of example 1 (supercritical extraction, containing 1% by mass of manuka tree extract), example 2 (supercritical extraction, containing 5% by mass of manuka tree extract), example 3 (supercritical extraction, containing 10% by mass of manuka tree extract), example 4 (steam distillation, containing 5% by mass of manuka tree extract) and negative control (cells + medium) were added at 37 ℃ and 5% CO 2 Culturing in constant temperature incubator for 72h, carefully pouring out the culture solution gently, adding 50 μ l oil red O staining solution, staining for 10min, discarding the excess staining solution, washing with 40% isopropanol gently for 2 times, adding ddH 2 O, performing microscopic observation and photographing; then discard ddH 2 O,100% isopropanol (200. Mu.l/well), absorbance at 492nm, calculated as follows:
sebum content inhibition rate% =100-OD492 sample group to be tested/OD 492 negative control group x 100
The results are shown in FIGS. 1-2, in which:
1) The inhibition effects of examples 1 to 3 are positively correlated with the content percentage of the manuka tree extract, which indicates that the manuka tree extract prepared by the present invention has an excellent sebum secretion inhibiting effect;
2) Example 2 is superior to comparative example 1 in the effect of inhibiting sebum content, which shows that the supercritical extraction method has a simple process, high extraction efficiency and an excellent oil control effect compared with the manuka tree extract prepared by the traditional steam distillation method under the same content condition.
2. Flora growth regulation and flora biofilm regulation test: regulation of flora growth, biofilm formation assays
Acne strains (RT 4 and RT 5) and non-acne strains (RT 6) are respectively taken to be inoculated and cultured to be configured into the concentration of 1000CFU/ml, then the same amount of samples to be tested (example 2 and comparative example 1) and negative control (culture medium) are respectively added, the samples are cultured under the anaerobic condition at 37 ℃, sampling is carried out after 24 hours, the plates are treated and spotted, and the total number of viable bacteria is calculated, and the result is shown in figure 3.
Inoculating acne strains (RT 4, RT 5) and non-acne strains (RT 6), respectively, culturing, and concoctingSet to a concentration of 1x10 8 CFU/ml, 100. Mu.l of each well of the sample to be tested (example 2, comparative example 1) and the negative control (medium) were added to a 96-well plate, the plate was incubated at 37 ℃ for 24 hours, and then the non-attached bacteria (to which bacteria in the biofilm would attach) were removed from each well. Finally, the biofilm was quantified using a microplate detector by washing with 2% Crystal Violet (CV) dye solution and air drying to dissolve the bound dye, subtracting the CV-stained blank well from the measurement using optical density at 595nm (OD 595) to offset background interference, and the results are shown in FIG. 4.
As can be seen from fig. 3, example 2 can significantly inhibit the growth of propionibacterium acnes and has no effect on the beneficial bacterium staphylococcus epidermidis, compared with comparative example 1;
as can be seen from fig. 4, example 2 can completely inhibit the formation of a biofilm of propionibacterium acnes and significantly increase the biofilm-forming ability of the probiotic staphylococcus epidermidis, compared to comparative example 1;
3. and (3) testing the acne removing effect:
the emulsion of example 2 added to a cosmetic formulation at a weight ratio of 1% was applied to pox sites 1 time each in the morning and evening, and about 1 soybean each time, and photographed with C-CUBE (PIXIENCE, france) for 3 consecutive days, as shown in FIG. 5. From left to right, 3 volunteers with representative pox muscles were presented.
The test method comprises the following steps: the adopted SEBUMETER method is recognized worldwide, after the special extinction adhesive tape with the thickness of 0.1mm absorbs grease on human skin, the special extinction adhesive tape is changed into a semitransparent adhesive tape, the light transmittance of the semitransparent adhesive tape is changed, the more grease is absorbed, the greater the light transmittance is, and the content of the grease on the skin can be measured.
30 volunteers, 16 males and 14 females with the age of 20-35 were screened for oily skin and randomly divided into 2 groups of 15 individuals each. Testing was performed using the world-recognized SEBMETER method. The volunteers applied 1 part of the emulsion of example 2 and 1 part of the emulsion of comparative example 1 in the morning and evening, respectively, and measured the skin oil and fat using a Sebumeter SM815 at 2 weeks and 4 weeks after the application of the product and at 2 weeks and 4 weeks after the application of the product, and the results are shown in fig. 6. The emulsion formula comprises:
Claims (10)
1. a preparation method of a Manuka tree extract is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) Taking fresh branches and leaves of the Manuka tree, drying, crushing and putting into an extraction kettle;
(2) Injecting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into an extraction kettle, and extracting for 30-120min at a certain temperature and pressure to obtain extract;
(3) The extract obtained in the step 2 flows into a separator along with carbon dioxide, and is separated under certain pressure and temperature to obtain a collected liquid for later use;
(4) And (4) dissolving the collected liquid obtained in the step (3) in a solvent, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the manuka tree extract solution.
2. The method for preparing a manuka tree extract of claim 1, wherein the step 1 comprises the steps of pulverizing, sieving with a 40-60 mesh sieve, and collecting the undersize product.
3. The method for preparing manuka tree extract of claim 1, wherein the supercritical extraction temperature in step 2 is 30-50 ℃ and the extraction pressure is 10-30MPa.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein the flow rate of carbon dioxide in the supercritical extraction of step 2 is 10-30L/h.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the separation pressure in step 3 is 5-15MPa and the separation temperature is 25-35 ℃.
6. The method for preparing manuka tree extract of claim 1, wherein the solvent in step 4 is an aliphatic alcohol, preferably, the aliphatic alcohol is an aliphatic alcohol solvent with 8-30 carbon atoms.
7. The method for preparing a manuka tree extract according to claim 1, wherein the mass fraction of the manuka tree extract in the manuka tree extract solution is 1 to 10%.
8. The method for preparing Manuka tree extract according to claim 7, wherein the mass fraction of sesquiterpene ketone in Manuka tree extract is 20-40%.
9. A manuka tree extract prepared by the method for preparing a manuka tree extract according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
10. The application of the manuka tree extract prepared by the preparation method of the manuka tree extract according to claim 9 is applied to cosmetics with bacteriostatic and acne-removing effects, and preferably, the manuka tree extract is added to a cosmetic formula in a mass fraction of 0.1-10%.
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KR102567330B1 (en) * | 2023-06-23 | 2023-08-17 | (주)더마랩 | Cosmetic composition comprising plant complex extract containing Kummerowia striata extract as an active ingredient |
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