CN115778865A - Fluid face cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Fluid face cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN115778865A CN115778865A CN202211734325.3A CN202211734325A CN115778865A CN 115778865 A CN115778865 A CN 115778865A CN 202211734325 A CN202211734325 A CN 202211734325A CN 115778865 A CN115778865 A CN 115778865A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- seed oil
- peony seed
- cream
- repair factor
- fluid
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a fluid cream and a preparation method thereof. The fluid face cream provided by the invention has the advantages of fluidity, good cream-forming effect, convenience in use, high skin feel acceptance, good smearing property, moisture, non-greasiness, refreshing and non-thinness, nano-level particle sizes, contribution to the effect expression of each component, high glossiness, and high instant moisture-keeping, relieving and repairing effects due to the synergistic effect generated by the combined use of the peony seed oil and the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor in the repairing factor. Experiments show that the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor are matched pairwise, so that the moisturizing, relieving and repairing functions of the fluid cream are improved, the moisture content increase rate of the horny layer is 126.84%, the improvement rate of the percutaneous moisture loss value is 62.35%, the improvement rate of the heme is 48.03%, the improvement rate of the a value is 36.50%, and the improvement rate is far higher than that of the fluid cream using the peony seed oil or the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor alone.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a fluid cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The cream is used for supplementing free fatty acid, cholesterol and grease which are naturally present in the skin but are easy to lose, and keeping the water in the skin balanced. Frequent use of face creams can keep the skin moist and healthy, gradually returning to softness and smoothness. The traditional face cream has the advantages of no fluidity, thick texture, good sealing property, easy occurrence of phenomena of pore blockage, acne and the like due to the formation of a layer of oily film covered on the skin.
The skin is the largest organ of the human body and the most frequent part of the human body contacting with the outside, and is responsible for resisting the invasion of external harmful factors and regulating and controlling the ingress and egress of components of the human body such as moisture, grease and the like. The stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the skin, is the first thing in the interaction process between the skin and the outside, and when the skin barrier is broken, the percutaneous water loss is increased, and irritants and bacteria can enter the skin to cause red swelling, inflammation and itching of the skin. Therefore, it is important to create a cream which is convenient to use, interesting, refreshing and non-greasy in skin feeling and capable of repairing skin barrier problems.
The cream can be used all the year round, and common emulsification systems thereof comprise oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O), which are thick paste bodies. The O/W type face cream has the advantages that the external phase is a water-soluble component, the internal phase is an oil-soluble component, the cream is fresh and cool, is not greasy, does not irritate the skin, and is suitable for people with oily skin; the internal and external phases of the W/O type face cream are opposite to the O/W type, and the W/O type face cream contains more oil and wax components, has a good moistening effect on skin and is suitable for people with dry skin.
The prior art has the following problems:
1. the conventional face cream is thick and heavy, the risk of incomplete emulsification is high during pilot plant test, and the residual quantity is large during discharging, namely the production loss is high; compared with the conventional preparation of water aqua, the cleaning is more complicated;
2. the traditional face cream is in a cream shape, and the using mode is that fingers are lifted up to smear the face cream, so that secondary pollution is caused to the residual cream, and the subsequent use feeling and the shelf life of products are influenced;
3. the cream has complex ingredients, high thickener content and large molecules, can not be absorbed by skin, and is easy to have the phenomena of self-rubbing mud, cross-rubbing mud and the like; the packaging material of the cream formulation is more expensive than the water aqua, and the cost is higher;
4. the skin feel is usually sticky and greasy, and pores are blocked; or too refreshing and lacking in experience;
5. a liquid cream with soft skin feel, high oil loading, nano-grade particle size and water-like shape is lacked.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a fluid cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the combination of the repair factor, i.e., the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth can generate a synergistic effect, and the fluid cream has high instant moisturizing, soothing and repairing effects.
The present invention provides a fluid facial cream comprising:
0.6-4 wt% of emulsifier;
0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer;
0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate;
0 to 0.7 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone;
0.1wt% -15 wt% of a repair factor;
the balance of water;
the emulsifier is the combination of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and sodium surfactin;
the repair factor comprises peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor.
The fluid cream comprises 0.1-15 wt% of repair factors; the repair factor comprises peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor. In certain embodiments of the present invention, the fluid cream preferably comprises 6wt% to 15wt% of a repair factor; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 1-5: 1 to 10, preferably 3:5. 5:1 or 1:10.
the INCI of the peony seed oil in the repair factor is named peony (Paeonia SUFFRUTICOSA) seed oil; the peony seed oil is prepared by sequentially degumming, dealkalizing, decoloring and deodorizing low-temperature virgin crude oil. The peony seed oil is refined oil, and comprises main components of alpha-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, wherein the content of the linolenic acid reaches 64.14%. Linolenic acid is omega-3 fatty acid, and can be converted into EPA and DHA in human body to inhibit synthesis of inflammatory factor. Meanwhile, the peony seed oil contains rich sterol compounds and tocopherols, and researches show that the peony seed oil has a strong effect of removing DPPH free radicals. In recent years, the research on the skin care effect of the peony seed oil mainly focuses on the aspects of sun protection, oxidation resistance, bacteriostasis and the like. The peony seed oil has a strong absorption peak in a wavelength range of 270-420 nm, can effectively absorb UVA and UVB, has a certain sunscreen effect, has higher UVA absorption intensity than plant oil such as peanut oil, corn oil and the like with the same concentration, and shows excellent ultraviolet radiation damage resistance.
The INCI of the lucid GANODERMA fermentation liquid in the repairing factor is called as GANODERMA ATRUM (GANODERMA ATRUM) extract. The ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor is prepared by adding a water-soluble solvent into crushed ganoderma atrum according to a certain solid-to-liquid ratio for reflux extraction, repeating the reflux extraction twice, cooling, extracting solution suction filtration, vacuum concentration of filtrate to obtain an extract, vacuum drying at 40 ℃, weighing, solvent dissolution and the like. The main effective components of the ganoderma atrum are triterpenes, total saponins, total polysaccharides and peptides; wherein, both the peptidoglycan and the polysaccharide containing beta (1 → 3) (1 → 6) glycosidic bond have stronger anti-oxygen free radical activity.
The inventor creatively discovers that the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor are used together, so that the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor can provide the ultraviolet radiation damage resistance and have stronger oxygen radical resistance activity, and can also play a synergistic effect, so that the fluid cream can play a better instant moisturizing, soothing and repairing effect.
The fluid cream comprises 0.6-4 wt% of emulsifier; the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3-methylglucdistearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and sodium surfactin. In certain embodiments of the present invention, the fluid cream preferably comprises 1% to 3% by weight of an emulsifier.
The polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in the emulsifier of the invention is prepared by esterifying methylglucoside and polyglyceryl with stearic acid, and has an HLB value of about 12; the hydrophilic group is composed of polyglycerol and methyl glucoside, the lipophilic group is composed of two stearyl groups, and the two groups have similar structure sizes. Studies have shown that, in comparison of the amount of "erythema" elicitation, polyglycerol-3 methylglucdistearate exhibits a mildness comparable to hydrogenated lecithin; whereas in the comparison of the "dandruff" causing amount, among the emulsifiers evaluated, polyglycerol-3 methylglucdistearate showed excellent performance except that hydrogenated lecithin did not cause dandruff, but caused only slight dandruff; therefore, polyglycerol-3-methylglucidistearate is a relatively mild emulsifier recommended for use in sensitive skin products; the polyglycerol esters can improve the hydration state of skin, and the performance is due to the unique structure, and the polyhydroxy structure of the methylglucose and the polyglycerol esters greatly improves the hydration capability of the polyglycerol esters, so that the polyglycerol esters have lasting moisturizing performance. Polyglycerol-3-methylglucdistearate has lipophilic groups consisting of two long carbon chains in addition to glucose esters and polyglycerol esters having a polyhydroxy structure, so that the lipophilic groups are relatively large, and if the lipid-type emulsifier is applied to the skin, a uniform oil film is left on the skin after free water is evaporated, and the lipid-type emulsifier is not easily dissolved even when contacting water; therefore, polyglycerol-3-methylglucidistearate has very excellent water-repellent ability.
The inulin lauryl carbamate in the emulsifier is a natural plant emulsifier obtained by grafting a hydrophobic chain onto a fructopolysaccharide main chain of inulin, the hydrophilic chain main chain is inulin polysaccharide extracted from chicory roots, and the hydrophobic branch chain is a lauryl chain derived from coconut. Based on a steric hindrance barrier mechanism, a hydrophobic chain is anchored in an oil drop, an inulin fructan main chain is remained in a water phase to form a barrier (steric hindrance barrier) to prevent the oil drop from polymerizing again, the oil drop can be efficiently stabilized without completely covering an interface, and a free emulsifier is not used in a system.
The sodium surfactin in the emulsifier is cyclic peptide produced by fermenting Bacillus subtilis, the structure of the cyclic peptide contains a peptide ring formed by 7 amino acids and serves as a hydrophilic head, and an alkyl residue serves as a hydrophobic tail, and the unique chemical structure enables the cyclic peptide to have special performance different from that of a traditional surfactant. By utilizing the special chemical structure, transparent products with high oil content can be manufactured.
The fluid cream comprises 0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid copolymer, and preferably comprises 0.7-1.5 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid copolymer. In one embodiment, the thickening agent is selected from cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid copolymers in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.6; or the mass ratio of the cetearyl alcohol to the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer is 0.1:0.6.
the fluid cream comprises 0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate. In one embodiment, the mass ratio of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol, and sodium hyaluronate in the moisturizer is 20:3:0.8:0.5:0.02; or the mass ratio of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate in the humectant is 10:3:0.8:0.5:0.02; or the mass ratio of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate in the humectant is 40:3:0.8:0.5:0.02.
the fluid cream comprises 0-0.7 wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In one embodiment, the fluid cream comprises 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In certain embodiments of the present invention, the above-described fluid cream further comprises at least one or a combination of two or more of a solvent, a grease, a suspension stabilizer, and/or a fragrance.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the fluid cream comprises: 2wt% of an emulsifier; 0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer; 0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0 to 0.7 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 8wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 3:5. in one embodiment, the fluid cream comprises: 2wt% of an emulsifier; 1.1wt% cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid copolymer; 24.32% by weight of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 8wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 3:5.
in some embodiments of the present invention, the fluid cream comprises: 3wt% of an emulsifier; 0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer; 0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0 to 0.7 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 6wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 5:1. in one embodiment, the fluid cream comprises: 3wt% of an emulsifier; 0.7wt% cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid copolymer; 14.32% by weight of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 6wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 5:1.
in some embodiments of the present invention, the fluid cream comprises: 1wt% of an emulsifier; 0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer; 0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0 to 0.7 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 11wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 1:10. in one embodiment, the fluid cream comprises: 1wt% of an emulsifier; 1.6wt% cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid copolymer; 44.32% by weight of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 11wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 1:10.
the fluid cream contains repair factors, namely peony seed oil and lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor, and is prepared by adding an emulsifier, a thickener, a humectant, an antioxidant and other components to be reasonably matched, wherein the particle size of the fluid cream is in a nanometer level, the refractive index is 1.3572-1.4018, the glossiness is good, the oil carrying capacity is high, the stability is good, and the fluid cream has the advantages of moistening without greasiness, refreshing without thinness and good repair effect; the fluid cream is different from the existing products, has novel dosage form, is in a water aqua shape with thin texture, has excellent use feeling, and is fresh and not sticky.
The invention provides a fluid cream which is mainly prepared by blending a water phase component, an oil phase component, an emulsifier and an additive (an effective component), wherein the polyhydric alcohol, the emulsifier, the thickener and the oil phase component are uniformly mixed according to a certain proportion, the water phase component is slowly added into the mixture while stirring, the viscosity of the system is low at the beginning to form a water-in-oil (W/O) type emulsification system, the viscosity of the system is gradually increased along with the increase of water quantity, the water phase component is continuously added dropwise, the system is suddenly thinned from viscosity, and at the moment, the W/O type emulsification system is subjected to phase inversion to form the oil-in-water (O/W) type liquid cream. The texture of the cream is like water, the conventional cream form is broken, and the cream is smooth in flowing; the color of the cream was milky white like uniform milk, and the cream was obtained by kneading the cream in the hands for a while. The water-melting cream of the fluid cream has enough quality transformation and interestingness, and can meet the pursuit of Z generation young people for fresh things. Meanwhile, the fluid cream can be used as dosage forms of toner, foundation liquid, essence, emulsion, cream and the like, has a multi-purpose function of one bottle, and is particularly suitable for millennium generation urban beauty people with faster work and life rhythm.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the fluid cream, which comprises the following steps: mixing glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate, cetostearyl alcohol, peony seed oil, the first mixed solution and the second mixed solution, and then carrying out homogenization treatment and ultrasonic treatment to obtain the fluid cream.
Specifically, the preparation method comprises the steps of mixing glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and cetostearyl alcohol at 70-85 ℃, cooling to 50-70 ℃, sequentially adding peony seed oil, a first mixed solution and a second mixed solution, mixing, and then carrying out homogenization treatment and ultrasonic treatment to obtain the fluid face cream.
The first mixed solution is a mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and is obtained by heating and mixing the butanediol, the 1, 2-hexanediol and the p-hydroxyacetophenone at 60-80 ℃. The second mixed solution is aqueous solution of sodium surfactin, lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, and is obtained by mixing water, sodium surfactin, lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the homogenizing treatment is performed at 6000rpm to 9000 rpm; the temperature of the homogenization treatment is 50-85 ℃; the time of the homogenization treatment is 2min to 6min. In some embodiments of the present invention, the ultrasonic treatment is performed at a power of 300W to 500W; the temperature of the ultrasonic treatment is 50-70 ℃; the ultrasonic treatment time is 20 min-40 min.
In one embodiment, the method for preparing the fluid cream comprises the following steps:
s1) preparing: uniformly mixing butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and heating at 60-80 ℃ until the mixture is transparent and has no particles to obtain a mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone; mixing sodium surfactin, lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer with water, and stirring for 2 min-6 min at the rotating speed of 200 rpm-500 rpm to obtain aqueous solution of the sodium surfactin, the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer;
s2) dispersing: stirring glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and cetostearyl alcohol at the temperature of 70-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 200-500 rpm for 2-6 min to obtain a uniform solution; cooling to 50-70 ℃, adding peony seed oil into the mixture, and stirring for 2-6 min at the rotating speed of 200-500 rpm; then, slowly adding the mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone obtained in the step S1) and the aqueous solution of sodium surfactin, lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer in sequence, and stirring at the rotating speed of 200-500 rpm for 5-10 min at constant temperature to obtain a uniform solution;
s3) homogenizing the finally obtained solution in the step S2) at the rotating speed of 6000 rpm-9000 rpm for 2 min-6 min under the condition of constant temperature of 50-85 ℃ to obtain a coarse emulsion;
s4) carrying out ultrasonic treatment on the coarse milk obtained in the step S3) to obtain the fluid cream; the power of the ultrasonic treatment is 300-500W, the temperature of the ultrasonic treatment is 50-70 ℃, and the time of the ultrasonic treatment is 20-40 min.
The invention also provides a repair factor, comprising: peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor; the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor is 1-5: 1 to 10. In some embodiments of the invention, the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquid is 3:5. 5:1 or 1:10. the repair factor provided by the invention combines the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor, and can play a role in synergistically increasing moisturizing, relieving and repairing effects. The invention also provides application of the repair factor in cosmetics.
The invention provides a fluid cream and a preparation method thereof. The invention provides a fluid cream, comprising: 0.6-4 wt% of emulsifier; 0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer; 0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate; 0 to 0.7 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 0.1wt% -15 wt% of a repair factor; the balance of water; the emulsifier is the combination of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and sodium surfactin; the repair factor comprises peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor. The peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor in the fluid cream provided by the invention are combined for use, so that a synergistic effect can be generated, and the fluid cream has high instant moisturizing, relieving and repairing effects. The fluid cream provided by the invention contains the repairing factors, has an innovative appearance form, is traditionally in a paste without fluidity, and is prepared into fluid cream with fluidity similar to water; the prepared fluid facial cream has high skin feel recognition degree and good cream forming effect through reasonable matching and synergistic effect of various components; the grain size is nano-grade, which is beneficial to the utilization and expression of functional components; the refractive index is 1.3572-1.4018, and the glossiness is high; it has high oil loading capacity, wraps 5 percent of grease, and has the advantages of good stability, convenient use, good spreadability, moistening without greasiness, refreshing without thinness, and the like. Experiments show that the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor are matched in pairs, so that the moisturizing, relieving and repairing functions of the fluid cream are improved, the moisture content increase rate of the horny layer is 126.84%, the percutaneous moisture loss value improvement rate is 62.35%, the heme improvement rate is 48.03%, and the a value improvement rate is 36.50%, and the moisture content increase rate is far higher than that of the fluid cream using the peony seed oil or the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor alone.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a picture of the appearance of samples prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 after stability test;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of example 1;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of example 2;
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of example 3;
FIG. 5 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of comparative example 3;
FIG. 6 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of comparative example 4;
FIG. 7 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of comparative example 5.
Detailed Description
The invention discloses a fluid cream and a preparation method thereof. Those skilled in the art can modify the process parameters appropriately to achieve the desired results with reference to the disclosure herein. It is expressly intended that all such similar substitutes and modifications which would be obvious to one skilled in the art are deemed to be included in the invention. While the methods and applications of this invention have been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that variations and modifications in the methods and applications described herein, as well as other suitable variations and combinations, may be made to implement and use the techniques of this invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples:
example 1
A fluid cream with a repairing effect comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
(1) Emulsifier: the total mass percentage of the polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, the inulin lauryl carbamate and the sodium surfactin is 2.0wt%;
(2) Thickening agent: cetearyl alcohol 0.5wt% and acrylic copolymer 0.6wt%;
(3) Humectant: 20wt% of glycerin, 3wt% of butanediol, 0.8wt% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.5wt% of panthenol and 0.02wt% of sodium hyaluronate;
(4) A repair factor: 3wt% of peony seed oil and 5wt% of ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor;
(5) Antioxidant: 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone;
(6) The balance being deionized water.
According to the mass percentage, the preparation method of the fluid cream with the repairing effect comprises the following steps:
(1) Preparing: uniformly mixing butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, heating to 75 ℃ until the mixture is transparent and has no particles, and then keeping the temperature for later use; mixing deionized water, sodium surfactin, ganoderma fermentation liquid and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, stirring at 400rpm for 5min, and placing in 55 deg.C water bath for heat preservation.
(2) Dispersing: putting glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and cetostearyl alcohol into a container, placing in a water bath kettle at 80 deg.C, stirring at 300rpm for 3min to obtain a uniform solution; cooling to 65 ℃, adding peony seed oil, stirring at 300rpm for 3min; then, slowly adding deionized water, sodium surfactin, a mixed solution of the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquid and the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and a transparent mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in sequence, stirring at the constant speed of 300rpm for 10min to obtain a uniform solution;
(3) Homogenizing: homogenizing at 9000rpm at constant temperature of 65 deg.C for 4min to obtain coarse emulsion;
(4) Ultrasonic: and then transferring the crude emulsion into an ultrasonic cleaning instrument, setting the ultrasonic power at 500W and the ultrasonic temperature at 60 ℃, and treating for 30min to obtain the fluid cream with the repairing effect.
Example 2
A fluid cream with a repairing effect comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
(1) Emulsifier: the total mass percentage of the polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, the inulin lauryl carbamate and the sodium surfactin is 3.0wt%;
(2) Thickening agent: cetearyl alcohol 0.1wt% and acrylic copolymer 0.6wt%;
(3) Humectant: 10wt% of glycerin, 3wt% of butanediol, 0.8wt% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.5wt% of panthenol and 0.02wt% of sodium hyaluronate;
(4) A repair factor: 5 percent of peony seed oil and 1 percent of lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor by weight;
(5) Antioxidant: 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone;
(6) The balance being deionized water.
According to the mass percentage, the preparation method of the fluid cream with the repairing effect comprises the following steps:
(1) Preparing: uniformly mixing butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, heating to 80 ℃ until the mixture is transparent and has no particles, and then keeping the temperature for later use; mixing deionized water, sodium surfactin, ganoderma fermentation liquid and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, stirring at 300rpm for 6min, and placing in 60 deg.C water bath for heat preservation.
(2) Dispersing: putting glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and cetostearyl alcohol into a container, placing in a water bath kettle at 85 deg.C, stirring at 500rpm for 2min to obtain a uniform solution; cooling to 60 deg.C, adding peony seed oil, stirring at 200rpm for 5min; cooling to 55 deg.C, slowly adding deionized water, sodium surfactin, mixed solution of Ganoderma fermentation broth and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, and transparent mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, stirring at 300rpm for 10min to obtain uniform solution;
(3) Homogenizing: homogenizing at 7000rpm at constant temperature of 55 deg.C for 5min to obtain coarse emulsion;
(4) Ultrasonic: and then transferring the crude emulsion into an ultrasonic cleaning instrument, setting the ultrasonic power at 400W and the ultrasonic temperature at 65 ℃, and treating for 40min to obtain the liquid cream with the repairing effect.
Example 3
A fluid cream with a repairing effect comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
(1) Emulsifier: the total mass percent of the polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, the inulin lauryl carbamate and the sodium surfactin is 1.0wt%;
(2) Thickening agent: cetearyl alcohol 1.0wt% and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.6wt%;
(3) Humectant: 40wt% of glycerin, 3wt% of butanediol, 0.8wt% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.5wt% of panthenol and 0.02wt% of sodium hyaluronate;
(4) A repair factor: 1wt% of peony seed oil and 10wt% of ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor;
(5) Antioxidant: 0.5wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone;
(6) The balance being deionized water.
According to the mass percentage, the preparation method of the fluid cream with the repairing effect comprises the following steps:
(1) Preparing: uniformly mixing butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, heating to 70 ℃ until the mixture is transparent and has no particles, and then keeping the temperature for later use; mixing deionized water, sodium surfactin, ganoderma fermentation liquid and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, stirring at 500rpm for 3min, and placing in 50 deg.C water bath for heat preservation.
(2) Dispersing: putting glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and cetostearyl alcohol into a container, placing in a 75 ℃ water bath kettle, stirring at 400rpm for 3min to obtain a uniform solution; cooling to 65 ℃, adding peony seed oil, stirring at 300rpm for 3min; cooling to 50 deg.C, slowly adding deionized water, sodium surfactin, mixed solution of Ganoderma fermentation broth and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, and transparent mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, stirring at 400rpm for 10min to obtain uniform solution;
(3) Homogenizing: homogenizing at constant temperature of 55 deg.C and 6000rpm for 5min to obtain coarse emulsion;
(4) Ultrasonic treatment: and then transferring the crude emulsion into an ultrasonic cleaning instrument, setting the ultrasonic power at 450W and the ultrasonic temperature at 55 ℃, and treating for 25min to obtain the fluid cream with the repairing effect.
The formulations of the above examples 1 to 3 are shown in Table 1:
TABLE 1
Comparative example 1
Compared with example 1, the components of the emulsion are removed, and the specific ingredients are shown in Table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 2
Compared with example 1, the thickening agent-cetearyl alcohol is removed, and the specific components are shown in Table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 3
Compared with example 1, the humectant-glycerin was removed, and the specific ingredients are shown in table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 4
Compared with the embodiment 1, the peony seed oil serving as the repair factor is removed, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 5
Compared with the example 1, the repairing factor-ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor is removed, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 6
Compared with the embodiment 1, the dosage of the emulsifier polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and sodium surfactin is increased to 5.0 percent of the total mass percent, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 7
Compared with the embodiment 1, the dosage of the thickening agent cetearyl alcohol is increased, the mass percent is 2 percent, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 8
Compared with the embodiment 1, the dosage of the peony seed oil serving as the repair factor is increased, the mass percentage is 10%, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 9
Compared with the example 1, the process flow of ultrasonic treatment is omitted, and the components are consistent with the example 1.
Comparative example 10
Compared with the embodiment 1, the repair factor-peony seed oil is removed, the dosage of the repair factor-ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor is increased to 8 percent, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 11
Compared with the example 1, the repairing factor-ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor is removed, the dosage of the repairing factor-peony seed oil is increased to 8 percent, and the specific components are shown in the table 2; the preparation process remained the same as in example 1.
TABLE 2
Efficacy testing
(1) Stability test
The instant exploration process comprises the steps of accurately weighing the same amount of liquid cream in a centrifuge tube, placing the centrifuge tube in a centrifuge again, setting the conditions to be 2000rpm, and observing whether the liquid cream in the centrifuge tube is layered or not after 30 minutes.
The long-term exploration procedure is to weigh a certain amount of the samples prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 into a sample bottle, observe the sample for 7 days (D7) at room temperature, and record the picture of the sample by photographing, as shown in FIG. 1, wherein FIG. 1 is a picture of the appearance of the sample prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 after the stability test. The test phenomena are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3
As can be seen from table 3, after centrifugation, the samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 of the present invention are not layered, and after standing at room temperature for 7 days, the samples of comparative examples 1,2 and 9 are layered, i.e., under the conditions of no emulsifier, no thickener, too high addition of repair factor-peony seed oil and no ultrasonic treatment, the stability of the product is affected; in contrast, comparative example 4 did not show delamination because the sample was a single system and no oil phase component was added, so the solution was more uniform. The samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 and 5 to 8 have no delamination and good stability, which indicates that reasonable matching and addition of the emulsifier, the thickener and the repair factor-peony seed oil lead the free movement of emulsion droplets to be hindered by certain mechanical, spatial or electrical obstacles and slow down the sedimentation speed of the droplets.
(2) Viscosity measurement
The fluid cream samples prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 to 8 were measured using NDJ-8S digital viscometer of shanghai cyanine sea instruments ltd, with a selected spindle of # 3 and a rotation speed of 60rpm, and the results are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4
As can be seen from Table 4, the samples of examples 1 to 3 of the present invention and comparative examples 3 to 5 had a low viscosity, a thin texture, and a fluidity similar to water; while the samples of comparative examples 6 to 8 had a viscosity of > 1000mpa.s and a texture state similar to that of the conventional emulsion, indicating that excessive addition of the emulsifier, the thickener and the repair factor, peony seed oil, increased the consistency of the samples.
(3) Particle size observation
Particle size observation was performed on the samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 to 5, and the specific procedure was as follows:
(1) preheating an instrument: opening a particle size tester, and preheating for 15 minutes;
(2) diluting a sample to be tested: weighing one part of each of the samples in the examples 1-3 and the comparative examples 3-5, diluting the sample to 20mg/mL by using deionized water, and putting a certain amount of diluted liquid cream into a cuvette;
(3) setting parameters: setting parameters of a solvent of a test sample, a test particle size range and the like;
(4) and (3) measuring the particle size: and (4) after the steps are finished, carrying out particle size test. The results are shown in FIGS. 2 to 7 and Table 6, and FIG. 2 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of example 1; FIG. 3 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of example 2;
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of example 3; FIG. 5 is a graph of the particle size distribution of the sample of comparative example 3; FIG. 6 is a graph showing the particle size distribution of the sample of comparative example 4; FIG. 7 is a particle size distribution diagram of a sample of comparative example 5.
TABLE 6
As can be seen from Table 6, the samples prepared in examples 1 to 3 of the present invention and comparative examples 3 to 5 had particle sizes ranging from 160.16 to 565.34nm, which were all in the nanometer range. The particle sizes of the fluid creams prepared in the embodiments 1 to 3 are uniform and approximate, and are 250 to 350nm, which indicates that reasonable collocation of the components of each part and corresponding process treatment can prepare concentrated samples with small particle sizes. The particle size of comparative example 4 is the smallest because it is a single system, and the liquid creams prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 and 5 belong to an emulsified system containing an oil phase component. Compared with the example 1, the comparative example 5 only removes the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquid, the grain size is similar, and the influence of the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquid on the grain size of the sample is small.
(4) Sensory evaluation
In order to evaluate the effect of the fluid cream according to the present invention, 30 healthy volunteer subjects were selected as test samples for sensory evaluation tests (randomly divided into 6 groups of 5 persons each, one example or comparative example and a commercially available O/W type cream or W/O type cream) using the samples according to examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 3 to 5 of the present invention and commercially available O/W type creams and W/O type creams. In the face painting process, scores were evaluated in a plurality of dimensions of texture, spreadability, absorption speed, moisturizing effect, softness, moisturizing effect, greasiness, blooming effect, mildness, and taste, with a score ranging from 1 to 9 (taste from 0 to 10), and the higher the score, the higher the recognition degree of the dimension, and the evaluation criteria are shown in table 7, and the results are shown in table 8.
TABLE 7
TABLE 8
As can be seen from Table 8, the evaluation indexes of the fluid creams prepared in examples 1 to 3 of the present invention are better than those of the commercial creams (the moisturizing feeling removal dimension is slightly lower than that of the W/O type creams because the moisturizing feeling is mainly brought by the oil phase components, and the moisturizing feeling is stronger because the oil phase components of the W/O type creams are higher than those of other types of creams). The fluid cream disclosed by the invention is reasonably matched with various components, so that the particle size of an integral emulsification system is smaller, the dispersion is uniform, the smearing property is good, the texture is fresh and not greasy, the absorption speed is high, the cream is soft and moist, the mildness is strong, the use is convenient, the integral preference of a volunteer is higher, and the addition of the emulsifier, the thickening agent, the humectant and the repair factor, namely peony seed oil, in the components is crucial to various indexes of the product.
(5) Tear test
Through a tearing test experiment, the moisture content of the horny layer of the skin, the moisture loss rate of the epidermis and the change of the heme and a value of the skin are measured, the change condition of the barrier function of the skin is reflected, and the short-term repair and relieving effects of the product are verified.
Selecting 30 volunteers aged 18-55 years with unlimited genuineness and non-contraindicated people, wherein the skin of a test area has no obvious redness, skin damage or scars; test sites and methods: the arms are distributed randomly; the product using method comprises the following steps: 2mg/cm2; before each test, the patient sits still for 30min in an indoor environment with constant temperature of 21 ℃ and relative humidity of 50%, and can not drink water and beverages.
Before recording the use of the sample, after the arm of the volunteer was peeled off 20 times using the tape for injury, the volunteer was asked to try the fluid creams prepared in the application example 1, the comparative examples 3 to 5 and the comparative examples 10 to 11 on the torn portion, respectively, wherein the comparative example 11 was not efficacy-verified because the fluid cream added with 8% peony seed oil showed a delamination phenomenon and an unstable state. The moisture content of the volunteer skin, the epidermal moisture loss rate, the change in hemoglobin and a-value were evaluated using a skin moisture content test probe (Corneometer CM 825), a transdermal moisture loss rate tester (Tewameter TM 300), a skin hemoglobin tester (MX 18), and a skin color probe (CL 400), test period: for 1 day, changes in the data were recorded before 20 tape peels (Hiitial), after 20 tape peels (H0) and after 6H (H6) after using the samples, as shown in Table 9.
TABLE 9
As can be seen from table 9, after the fluid facial creams prepared in examples 1, comparative examples 3 to 5 and comparative example 10 of the present invention were applied, the moisture content of the stratum corneum, the moisture loss rate through the skin, the hemoglobin and the a value showed the tendency of rising, falling and falling respectively with the increase of the test time, which shows that the fluid facial cream of the present invention can improve the moisturizing effect of the skin, enhance the skin barrier function and have the soothing effect. And in 6h of test, after the fluid facial creams prepared in the example 1, the comparative examples 3 to 5 and the comparative example 10 are used by volunteers, the moisture content increase rates of the horny layer are 126.84%, 64.10%, 77.82%, 49.75% and 96.94%, the improvement rates of the percutaneous moisture loss value are 62.35%, 51.33%, 35.15%, 28.91% and 40.73%, the improvement rates of the heme are 48.03%, 40.96%, 22.64%, 13.67% and 31.05%, and the improvement rates of the a value are 36.50%, 23.54%, 14.28%, 15.11% and 20.18%, namely, the index improvement rates of the fluid facial cream prepared in the comparative example 1 are superior to those of the comparative examples 3 to 5 and 10, which shows that the peony seed oil and the ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor are matched in pairs in the repair factor, so that the components are synergistically synergistic and play better instant moisturizing, soothing and repairing efficacies.
The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art should be considered to be within the technical scope of the present invention, and the technical solutions and the inventive concepts thereof according to the present invention should be equivalent or changed within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A fluid facial cream, comprising:
0.6-4 wt% of emulsifier;
0.7-2 wt% of cetearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer;
0.1-50 wt% of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate;
0 to 0.7 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone;
0.1wt% -15 wt% of a repair factor;
the balance of water;
the emulsifier is the combination of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and sodium surfactin;
the repair factor comprises peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor.
2. The fluid cream according to claim 1, wherein the mass content of the repair factor is 6-15 wt%;
the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 1-5: 1 to 10.
3. The fluid cream of claim 2, wherein the repair factor comprises 3 parts by weight of peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth: 5. 5:1 or 1:10.
4. the fluid cream according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsifier is present in an amount of 1 to 3wt% by mass.
5. The fluid cream according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass content of the emulsifier is 2wt%;
the mass content of the repair factor is 8wt%;
the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 3:5.
6. the fluid cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is present in an amount of 3wt%;
the mass content of the repair factor is 6wt%;
the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 5:1.
7. the fluid cream according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass content of the emulsifier is 1wt%;
the mass content of the repair factor is 11wt%;
the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid in the repair factor is 1:10.
8. a method of preparing a fluid cream as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the steps of:
s1) preparing: uniformly mixing butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and heating at 60-80 ℃ until the mixture is transparent and has no particles to obtain a mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone; mixing sodium surfactin, lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer with water, and stirring for 2 min-6 min at the rotating speed of 200 rpm-500 rpm to obtain aqueous solution of the sodium surfactin, the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer;
s2) dispersing: stirring glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate and cetostearyl alcohol at the temperature of 70-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 200-500 rpm for 2-6 min to obtain a uniform solution; cooling to 50-70 ℃, adding peony seed oil into the mixture, and stirring for 2-6 min at the rotating speed of 200-500 rpm; then, slowly adding the mixed solution of butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone obtained in the step S1) and the aqueous solution of sodium surfactin, lucid ganoderma fermentation liquor and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer in sequence, and stirring at the rotating speed of 200-500 rpm for 5-10 min at constant temperature to obtain a uniform solution;
s3) homogenizing the finally obtained solution in the step S2) for 2-6 min at the rotation speed of 6000-9000 rpm under the condition of constant temperature of 50-85 ℃ to obtain a coarse emulsion;
s4) carrying out ultrasonic treatment on the coarse milk obtained in the step S3) to obtain the fluid cream; the power of the ultrasonic treatment is 300-500W, the temperature of the ultrasonic treatment is 50-70 ℃, and the time of the ultrasonic treatment is 20-40 min.
9. A repair factor, comprising: peony seed oil and ganoderma lucidum fermentation liquor;
the mass ratio of the peony seed oil to the lucid ganoderma fermentation liquid is 1-5: 1 to 10.
10. Use of the repair factor of claim 9 in cosmetics.
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