CN115708783A - 一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方及其在化妆品中的应用 - Google Patents
一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方及其在化妆品中的应用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方及其在化妆品中的应用，属于日用化学品领域。含有烷基谷氨酸酯，C12‑22的直链饱和脂肪醇和植物甾醇类的液晶乳化剂组合物，该组合物应用于个人护理配方中，制备得到的个人护理产品具有完整，稳定的层状液晶结构。这种具有层状液晶结构的个人护理产品，是皮肤用活性成分的良好载体，在功效护肤产品中具有广泛地应用。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品和个人护理品，属于日用化学品领域。
背景技术
皮肤是人体最大的器官，也是人们对外形象的直接展示。由于皮肤直接与外部环境接触，变老的迹象也通常反映在皮肤之上，如干燥、细纹、皱纹、色斑、和缺乏弹性等。外部环境影响包括但不限于光辐射，大气污染，化学品接触等，自身内在的因素和饮食也会引起皮肤组成，结构和功能的改变。
随着人们对个人护理产品的功效期望越来越高，人们发现很多活性成分能改善皮肤外观和生理功能。例如维生素A类衍生物，补骨脂酚，白藜芦醇，α和β-羟基酸等。这些活性成分在应用中仍然存在一些问题，如维生素A类衍生物、白藜芦醇(稳定性变化，刺激性)，维生素A类、α和β-羟基酸可能引起皮肤刺激和泛红。
人们一直致力于制备具有高功效并且稳定，温和的个人护理产品。具有层状液晶结构的产品配方是这些活性物的良好载体。具有层状液晶结构的配方可以包裹脂溶性和水溶性活性成分，提高成分的稳定性，降低潜在的对皮肤的刺激性，并且可以通过缓释作用，提高产品的功效.制备完整并且稳定的液晶产品是解决上述问题的关键.
发明内容
研究发现，谷氨酸酯的烷基衍性物，与其它一种或多种成分组合后，作为个人护理产品的乳化剂，应用到配方之中，可以形成具有完整稳定的层状液晶结构的产品。
按照本发明指出的方向，优先使用的谷氨酸酯的烷基衍生物为二辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯.
一方面，本发明涉及的一种液晶乳化剂组合物的配方，这些配方中含有谷氨酸酯的烷基衍生物，C12-22的直链饱和脂肪醇和植物甾醇类等成分。并可任选地与其它皮肤护理活性剂与之配伍.首选包含二辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯，鲸蜡醇，硬脂醇，山嵛醇，植物甾醇和胆甾醇的混合物。
本发明涉及一种液晶乳化剂组合物的配方，并可任选的与其它皮肤护理活性剂之成分配伍。用于纳入本发明液晶组合物配方的化妆品活性成分包括但不仅限于：
(1)植物油脂包括，但不仅限于，全缘叶澳洲坚果油，辣木籽油，霍霍巴籽油，刺阿干树仁油，猴面包树籽油，毛瑞榈果油，绣红蔷薇籽油，苦油树籽油，素方花油，蔬食埃塔棕果油，巴西果籽油，古巴香胶树树脂，木鲁星果棕脂，澳洲坚果油酸乙酯，向日葵籽油，辣木籽油，霍霍巴酯类，印度没药树脂提取物，泛醇三乙酸酯等。
(2)合成油脂包括，但不限于辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，氢化聚异丁烯，角鲨烷，氢化聚癸烯，鲸蜡基-PG羟乙基棕榈酰胺，季戊四醇四(乙基己酸)酯，棕榈酸乙基己酯，异壬酸异壬酯，聚二甲基硅氧烷等。
(3)皮肤调理剂包括，但不限于视黄醛、视黄醇、视黄醇视黄酸酯、视黄醇亚油酸酯、视黄醇乙酸酯、视黄醇棕榈酸酯、视黄醇丙酸酯、视黄氧基三甲基硅烷、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯、红没药醇、神经酰胺II、金合欢醇乙酸酯、卵磷脂、乙酰基六肽-1、棕榈酰三肽-1、棕榈酰五肽-4、乙酰基六肽-8等
(4)抗氧化剂包括，但不限于生育酚乙酸酯、白藜芦醇、辅酶Q10、麦角硫因、二甲基甲氧基苯并二氢吡喃醇、硫代硫磺酸等。
(5)蜡类包括，但不限于巴西棕榈蜡、向日葵蜡、小竹树蜡、微晶蜡等
另一方面，本发明也涉及如何利用上述组合物配方来制造具有层状液晶结构的个人护理产品和化妆品。这种产品可用来改善皮肤表面的状态。
此处所说的个人护理产品和化妆品包括但不限于，面部护肤品如乳液、面霜、精华液、面膜、眼霜、凝胶、防晒乳霜、磨砂膏。身体护理产品如身体乳、身体磨砂膏。
本发明同时提供一种用于制备液晶组合物的方法，包括以下步骤：
(a)将液晶组合物涉及到的所有成分加入不锈钢反应釜中，在75～85℃的温度下，搅拌至完全溶解，混合均匀。
(b)开始降温，在保持适当的温度下，造粒或者造片.
附图说明
图1为实施例3在25℃条件下放置24小时后观测到的液晶结构图像.
图2为实施例4在25℃条件下放置24小时后观测到的液晶结构图像.
图3为实施例5在25℃条件下放置24小时后观测到的液晶结构图像。
具体实施方式
本发明的一个优先方面，是一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方，此配方可以只包括是一种混合物，此混合物有至少一个分子，分子内含有至少一条烷基链和一个谷氨酸酯。更优先的是这种混合物可以与至少一种成分混合。这些组合物可以作为化妆品或者个人护理产品的乳化剂，制备出具有稳定完整的层状液晶结构的产品。
组合物配方中的烷基谷氨酸酯优选为二辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯.
组合物配方中的C12-22的直链饱和脂肪醇，优选为鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇或者鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇和山嵛醇的混合物.
组合物配方中的甾醇类优选为植物甾醇类和胆甾醇.
本发明的优先配方可以改善人皮肤的生理结构或者物理外观。
外加成分：除了谷氨酸酯烷基衍生物、C12-22直链饱和脂肪醇、甾醇类成分。本发明的各种配方可包括其它外加成分，这些成分可以是有效的、有功能的、常规的用在化妆品和个人护理品内。觉得是否加入外加成分和选择的具体外加成分取决于具体用途和产品配方.本发明的各种配方通常都含有至少一种外加成分，本发明的各种配方也可含有多种外加成分。本发明的各种配方可包括一种或多种对配方的目的，有好处的外加成分。这些外加成分可以是一种或多种物质，例如皮肤调理剂，保湿剂，抗氧化剂，抗粉刺剂，美白剂，皮肤安慰剂。
实施例子以下例子进一步说明和论证了本发明范围内的各种实施方案，这些例子具有说明的目的，并不能理解为本发明的界限。
实施例1一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方1
此液晶组合物配方的配制方法如下：将A相组分加入不锈钢锅中，并加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；当物料混合均匀后，进行造粒或者造片，然后进行灌装备用。
实施例2一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方2
此液晶组合物配方的配制方法如下：将A相组分加入不锈钢锅中，并加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；当物料混合均匀后，进行造粒或者造片，然后进行灌装备用。
实施例3一种液晶抗皱眼霜配方
上述实施例3一种液晶抗皱眼霜配方的配制方法如下：将A组组分加入水锅中，并加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；将B组组分加入油锅中，加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；将A组组分和B组组分在乳化锅中混合，均质乳化约10分钟，保温20分钟；乳化完成后，边搅拌边降温至45～50℃，加入C组组分；冷却至室温进行灌装即可。
实施例4一种液晶抗氧化抗老面膜配方
上述实施例4一种液晶抗氧化抗老面膜配方的配制方法如下：将A组组分加入水锅中，并加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；将B组组分加入油锅中，加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；将A组组分和B组组分在乳化锅中混合，均质乳化约10分钟，保温20分钟；乳化完成后，边搅拌边降温至45～50℃，加入C组组分；冷却至室温进行灌装即可。
实施例5一种液晶身体乳配方
上述实施例5一种液晶身体乳配方的配制方法如下：将A组组分加入水锅中，并加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；将B组组分加入油锅中，加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；将A组组分和B组组分在乳化锅中混合，均质乳化约10分钟，保温20分钟；乳化完成后，边搅拌边降温至45～50℃，加入C组组分；冷却至室温进行灌装即可。
上述实例为本发明较佳的具体实施方式，单本发明的实施方式不受上述实施实例的限制。
Claims (17)
1.一种液晶乳化剂组合物配方，配方含有：
A.0.1％至约50.0％(％w/w)的谷氨酸酯类衍生物；
B.至少一种外加成分。
2.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方中的谷氨酸酯为一种烷基衍生物。
3.如权利要求2中的组合物配方，配方中的谷氨酸酯类衍生物为二辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯。
4.如权利要求2中的组合物配方，配方中的谷氨酸酯类衍生物为胆甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯。
5.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方中的外加成分可以为直链饱和脂肪醇，具体为C12-22的直链饱和脂肪醇。
6.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方中的外加成分可以为甾醇类，具体为植物甾醇类和胆甾醇。
7.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方组成为：至少一种谷氨酸酯烷基衍生物，至少一种直链饱和脂肪醇，和至少一种外加成分的混合物。
8.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方组成为：至少一种谷氨酸酯烷基衍生物，至少一种甾醇类，和至少一种外加成分的混合物。
9.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方组成为：至少一种谷氨酸酯烷基衍生物，至少一种甾醇类和至少一种直链饱和脂肪醇。
10.如权利要求1中的组合物配方，配方组成为：二辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、山嵛醇、植物甾醇类，和至少一种外加成分的混合物。
11.如权利要求10中的组合物配方，配方组成为：
二辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯0.1-50份
鲸蜡醇10-40份
硬脂醇10-40份
山嵛醇10-40份
植物甾醇类10-40份。
12.如权利要求1、7、8、10中所述，一种组合物配方，还进一步包括至少一种外加成分，这种外加成分为一种对皮肤有益的化合物。
13.如权利要求11中所述，一种组合物配方，其特征在于，所包括的一种外加成分，选自pH调节剂、防腐剂、磨削剂、吸附剂、螯合剂、防晒剂、皮肤调理剂、吸收剂、拔毛剂、分散剂、清洁剂、消泡剂、保湿剂、封闭剂、清凉剂、悬浮剂、变性剂、化学脱毛剂、祛斑剂、氧化剂、表面改性剂、还原剂、去头屑剂、抑汗剂、表面活性剂、缓冲剂、溶剂、匀染剂、表面活性助剂、缓蚀剂、乳化剂、增稠剂、成膜剂、降粘剂、乳化稳定剂、增泡剂、成塑剂、角质剥落剂、润肤剂、增溶剂、除臭剂、角质软化剂、色淀、粘合剂、促渗透剂、卷发/直发剂收敛剂、珠光剂、发用调理剂、抗粉刺剂、填充剂、助滑剂、发用定型剂、抗结块剂、推进剂、助乳化剂、发用着色剂、抗静电剂、稳泡剂、着色剂、芳香剂、抗氧化剂、物理脱毛剂。
14.如权利要求11中所述，一种组合物配方，其特征在于，所包括的一种外加成分为润肤剂，可以为阿月浑子(PISTACIA VERA)籽油、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA)籽油、澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、澳洲蓝柏(CALLITRIS INTRATROPICA)木油、巴巴苏(ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA)籽油、巴西果(BERTHOLLETIA EXCELSA)籽油、巴西油桃木(CARYOCAR BRASILIENSE)果油、白池花(LIMNANTHES ALBA)籽油、白花春黄菊(ANTHEMIS NOBILIS)花油、白桦(BETULA ALBA)油、白兰(MICHELIA ALBA)花油、百合(LILIUM BROWNII)花油、斑点老鹳草(GERANIUMMACULATUM)油、薄荷(MENTHA HAPLOCALYX)油、北非雪松(CEDRUS ATLANTICA)树皮油、玻璃苣(BORAGO OFFICINALIS)籽油、伯尔硬胡桃(SCLEROCARYA BIRREA)籽油、菜花蛇(ELAPHECARINATA)油、草棉(GOSSYPIUM HERBACEUM)籽油、茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶油、车前叶蓝蓟(ECHIUM PLANTAGINEUM)籽油、川谷(COIX LACRYMA-JOBI MA-YUEN)籽油、刺阿干树(ARGANIA SPINOSA)仁油、大果越桔(VACCINIUM MACROCARPON)籽油、大裂叶五桤木(PENTACLETHRA MACROLOBA)籽油、大西洋胄胸鲷(Hoplostethus atlanticus)油、蛋黄油、稻(ORYZA SATIVA)糠油、稻(ORYZA SATIVA)胚芽油、低芥酸菜子油、滇山茶(CAMELLIARETICULATA)籽油、丁香(EUGENIA CARYOPHYLLUS)花蕾油、冬牛至(ORIGANUMHERACLEOTICUM)花油、多茎奥尔曼力斯(ORMENIS MULTICAULIS)油、鳄梨(PERSEAGRATISSIMA)油、鳄梨油酸丁酯、番木瓜(CARICA PAPAYA)籽油、狗牙蔷薇(ROSA CANINA)果油、古蓬阿魏(FERULA GALBANIFLUA)树脂油、海巴戟(MORINDA CITRIFOLIA)籽油、海檀木(XIMENIA AMERICANA)籽油。
15.如权利要求11中所述，一种组合物配方，其特征在于，所包括的一种外加成分为抗氧化剂，可以为维生素A、维生素E、半胱氨酸、抗坏血酸、超氧化物歧化酶、谷胱甘肽过氧化酶、金属硫蛋白、木瓜巯基酶、辅酶Q10、没食子酸酯、硫辛酸、白藜芦醇、虾青素、黄酮类、原花青素、角鲨烯、葡萄籽油、番茄红素、茶多酚、麦角硫因、富勒烯、二甲基甲氧基苯并二氢吡喃醇、二甲基甲氧基苯并二氢吡喃棕榈酸酯、大豆异黄酮、松树皮、烟酰胺、棓酸酯、壬二酸赖氨酸、芸香苷、槲皮素、去甲二氢愈创酸、肌肽。
16.如权利要求11中所述，一种组合物配方，其特征在于，所包括的一种外加成分为皮肤调理剂，可以为视黄醇、视黄醛、生物素、腺苷、甘草酸二钾、维生素原B5、乙酰基四肽-9、水解长角豆籽提取物。
17.如权利要求11中所述，一种组合物配方，其特征在于，其中所述一种外加成分占所述组合物的浓度范围为从0.01％至20％，按总组成重量计。
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