CN112999110A - 一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提供一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳及其制备方法，其涉及化妆品领域。该视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，按重量百分比计，包含以下组分：视黄醛0.01‑1％，PEG/PPG—70/30生育酚醚0.1‑5％，氢化卵磷脂0.1‑5％，棕榈酸0.1‑5％，山嵛醇1‑10％，保湿剂1‑20％，增稠剂0.05‑1％，润肤酯1‑25％，功效活性物0.01‑10％，抗氧化剂0.01‑5％，PH调节剂0.1‑1％以及防腐剂0.1‑5％。本发明专利的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳的制备方法，制作工艺简单，所制得的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳可以通过缓释活性物，降低视黄醛的刺激性，提高皮肤的耐受性，并能提高活性物的有效利用率，拥有即时长效的淡纹效果，显著改善肌肤状态。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域，具体而言，涉及一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着社会的不断发展，越来越多的消费者趋于追求护肤品的显著效果。而随着年龄的不断增长，每个人都面临着肌肤衰老的问题，因而防止肌肤老化，去除细纹，紧致肌肤也成为众多消费者的迫切需求。
从专业的角度来看，被证实有效的主流明星成分有维生素A类(视黄醇)(以下简称维A类)，胜肽类以及多糖类。其中维A类是最早被证实有效抗衰老的成分之一，维A类真正发挥作用的是视黄酸，但视黄酸刺激性过大，不适合作为日常护理。视黄醛是视黄酸的直接前体，与视黄酸具有相似的生物活性，而皮肤耐受性明显优于视黄酸。
视黄醛被皮肤吸收后，逐渐被细胞中的氧化酶氧化，形成视黄酸。因而少量形成的视黄酸可以避免大剂量引起的皮肤不良反应。视黄酸活性的指标之一就是诱导细胞维A酸结合蛋白(CRABP-2)表达，外用RAL可明显诱导出CRABP-2mRNA和蛋白质的表达。同视黄酸一样，视黄醛也具有调节表皮细胞的增殖和分化，从而达到修复光损伤的功效。
视黄醛不仅能改善皮肤光老化症状，抑制表皮黑色素，紧致弹嫩肌肤，亦能抵抗肌肤衰老。
但视黄醛难溶于水，又容易被氧化等缺点，使得视黄醛很难直接在普通的化妆品工艺中加入，目前市场上多采用特殊工艺将视黄醛进行纳米包裹技术处理，以此来增加其吸收率和生物利用度。
基于现有应用技术，应用本专利组合乳化成分，原料来源可靠，只需普通制备工艺即可制得即时长效祛皱淡纹效果显著的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其祛皱淡纹效果显著，皮肤耐受性好。
本发明的另一目的在于提供一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳的制备方法，其只需普通制备工艺即可制得即时长效祛皱淡纹效果显著的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
本发明解决其技术问题是采用以下技术方案来实现。
本发明提出一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，该视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳按重量百分比计由以下原料制备而成：
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述保湿剂包括甘油、丁二醇、聚甘油、双甘油、戊二醇、甘油聚醚-7、甘油聚醚-26、双丙甘醇、透明质酸钠、海藻糖、甜菜碱、尿囊素以及聚乙二醇-400中的至少一种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述增稠剂包括黄原胶、卡波姆以及丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物中的至少一种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述润肤酯包括辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸、植物角鲨烷、白池花籽油、霍霍巴油以及乳木果油中的至少一种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述功效活性物包括乙酰基六肽-8、肌肽、寡肽-1、棕榈酰三肽-1、甘草酸二钾、红没药醇以及精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽中的至少一种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述抗氧化剂包括季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯和丁羟甲苯等中的一种或两种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述PH调节剂包括氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾以及三乙醇胺中的至少一种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述防腐剂包括苯氧乙醇、氯苯甘醚、乙基己基甘油、辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、己二醇以及1,2-戊二醇中的至少一种。
进一步地，在本发明较佳实施中，上述水为化妆品生产使用的去离子水。
本发明还提出一种如上述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳的制备方法，其包括以下步骤：
将增稠剂、甘油、丁二醇、戊二醇、透明质酸钠、海藻糖和甘草酸二钾预先混合润湿后，加入去离子水并置于85℃恒温水浴锅中，搅拌加热至完全溶解，得到第一前驱体；
将PEG/PPG—70/30生育酚醚、棕榈酸、氢化卵磷脂、山嵛醇、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、植物角鲨烷和季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯依次加入另一容器内，置于85℃恒温水浴锅中加热至完全溶解，待油相温度达到80℃时，将视黄醛加入，溶解完全，得到第二前驱体；
将第一前驱体在快速搅拌情况下加入第二前驱体中，进行乳化，得到一种乳液；
将乳液进行均质3分钟，搅拌降温至45℃左右，将精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽、苯氧乙醇和乙基己基甘油加入搅拌均匀，制得视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
本发明实施例提供的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳及其制备方法的有益效果是：本发明的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳的制备方法，制作工艺简单，所制得的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳可以通过缓释活性物，降低视黄醛的刺激性，提高皮肤的耐受性，并能提高活性物的有效利用率，拥有即时长效的淡纹效果，显著改善肌肤状态。
具体实施方式
为使本发明实施例的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚，下面将对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述。实施例中未注明具体条件者，按照常规条件或制造商建议的条件进行。所用试剂或仪器未注明生产厂商者，均为可以通过市售购买获得的常规产品。
以下结合实施例对本发明的特征和性能作进一步的详细描述。
实施例1
本实施例1的制备方法包括以下工艺步骤：
S1.称量各组分，在容器中将甘油，1,3-丁二醇，戊二醇，汉生胶，甘草酸二钾，海藻糖和透明质酸钠预混合，再加入水，置于85℃的恒温水浴锅中，加热搅拌至料体均匀。
S2.称量各组分，在另一容器中加入PEG/PPG—70/30生育酚醚，棕榈酸，氢化卵磷脂，山嵛醇，肉豆蔻酸异丙酯，辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，植物角鲨烷和季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯，加热混合均匀。
S3.在S2中加入视黄醛溶解完全。
S4.以450r/min的速率，快速搅拌情况下，将S1加入S3进行乳化，并以8000r/min的速率，使用均质机进行高速均质3min，以达到需要纳米粒径。
S5.搅拌冷却降温至45℃左右，将精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽，苯氧乙醇，乙基己基甘油一次加入S4中，搅拌均匀，制得视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
实施例1按照上述工艺步骤即可得到一种祛皱效果明显的视黄醛抗皱精华乳。常温状态下放置3个月无明显变化，若是使用普通乳化剂成分和添加比例，产品在放置一段时间后会引起产品颜色变化。而在使用时，可能会引起部分使用者的皮肤不耐受，造成泛红、脱皮等不良反应。
实施例2
实施例2的制备方法包括以下工艺步骤：
S1.称量各组分，在容器中将甘油，1,3-丁二醇，戊二醇，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，海藻糖和透明质酸钠预混合，再加入水，置于85℃的恒温水浴锅中，加热搅拌至料体均匀。
S2.称量各组分，在另一容器中加入PEG/PPG—70/30生育酚醚，棕榈酸，氢化卵磷脂，山嵛醇，肉豆蔻酸异丙酯，氢化棕榈油，橄榄油和季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯，加热混合均匀。
S3.在S2中加入视黄醛溶解完全。
S4.以450r/min的速率，快速搅拌情况下，将S1加入S3进行乳化，并以8000r/min的速率，使用均质机进行高速均质3min，以达到需要纳米粒径。
S5.搅拌冷却降温至45℃左右，将三乙醇胺，精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽，红没药醇，苯氧乙醇，乙基己基甘油一次加入S4中，搅拌均匀，制得视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
实施例2按照上述工艺步骤即可得到一种祛皱效果温和有效的视黄醛抗皱精华乳。常温状态下放置3个月无明显变化，若是使用普通乳化剂成分和添加比例，产品在放置一段时间后会引起产品颜色变化。而在使用时，可能会引起部分使用者的皮肤不耐受，造成泛红、脱皮等不良反应。并且因为添加量较低，祛皱效果缓慢，不明显。
实施例3
实施例3的制备方法包括以下工艺步骤：
S1.称量各组分，在容器中将甘油，1,3-丁二醇，戊二醇，丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，海藻糖，甘草酸二钾和透明质酸钠预混合，再加入水，置于85℃的恒温水浴锅中，加热搅拌至料体均匀。
S2.称量各组分，在另一容器中加入PEG/PPG—70/30生育酚醚，棕榈酸，氢化卵磷脂，山嵛醇，肉豆蔻酸异丙酯，乳木果油，白池花籽油和季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯，加热混合均匀。
S3.在S2中加入视黄醛溶解完全。
S4以450r/min的速率，快速搅拌情况下，将S1加入S3进行乳化，并以8000r/min的速率，使用均质机进行高速均质3min，以达到需要纳米粒径。
S5.搅拌冷却降温至45℃左右，将三乙醇胺，精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽，苯氧乙醇，乙基己基甘油一次加入S4中，搅拌均匀，制得视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
试验例
以下数据为使用实施例3制得视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳进行功效测试。
检测仪器：VISIA CR面部皮肤分析仪
受试者范围：年龄：40-60岁；性别：女；人数：10人
使用及测试方法：将精华乳涂抹于右眼眼角处，测试20分钟，1天，2周，4周的皱纹面积。左眼眼角处作为对照。
表1即时功效测试结果
表2长期功效测试结果
从试验例中的表1和表2可以看出，不管是即时功效还是长期功效，实施例3的方案所对应的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳作为实验组和对照组相比，对于鱼尾纹的改善率均具有明显的效果，尤其是长期功效测试中，两周的时间实验组的鱼尾纹面积改善率接近对照组的两倍，由此可见，本发明是实施例提供的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳淡化皮肤鱼尾纹显著，对于改善肌肤状态具有很明显的效果。
综上所述，本发明实施例提供的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳的制备方法，制作工艺简单，所制得的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳可以通过缓释活性物，降低视黄醛的刺激性，提高皮肤的耐受性，并能提高活性物的有效利用率，拥有即时长效的淡纹效果，显著改善肌肤状态。
以上所描述的实施例是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。本发明的实施例的详细描述并非旨在限制要求保护的本发明的范围，而是仅仅表示本发明的选定实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳按重量百分比计由以下原料制备而成：
2.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述保湿剂包括甘油、丁二醇、聚甘油、双甘油、戊二醇、甘油聚醚-7、甘油聚醚-26、双丙甘醇、透明质酸钠、海藻糖、甜菜碱、尿囊素以及聚乙二醇-400中的至少一种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述增稠剂包括黄原胶、卡波姆以及丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物中的至少一种。
4.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述润肤酯包括辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸、植物角鲨烷、白池花籽油、霍霍巴油以及乳木果油中的至少一种。
5.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述功效活性物包括乙酰基六肽-8、肌肽、寡肽-1、棕榈酰三肽-1、甘草酸二钾、红没药醇以及精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽中的至少一种。
6.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述抗氧化剂包括季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯和丁羟甲苯等中的一种或两种。
7.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述PH调节剂包括氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾以及三乙醇胺中的至少一种。
8.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述防腐剂包括苯氧乙醇、氯苯甘醚、乙基己基甘油、辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、己二醇以及1,2-戊二醇中的至少一种。
9.根据权利要求1所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳，其特征在于，所述水为化妆品生产使用的去离子水。
10.一种如权利要求1-9任意一项所述的视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳的制备方法，其特征在于，其包括以下步骤：
将增稠剂、甘油、丁二醇、戊二醇、透明质酸钠、海藻糖和甘草酸二钾预先混合润湿后，加入去离子水并置于85℃恒温水浴锅中，搅拌加热至完全溶解，得到第一前驱体；
将PEG/PPG—70/30生育酚醚、棕榈酸、氢化卵磷脂、山嵛醇、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、植物角鲨烷和季戊四醇四(双-叔丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯依次加入另一容器内，置于85℃恒温水浴锅中加热至完全溶解，待油相温度达到80℃时，将视黄醛加入，溶解完全，得到第二前驱体；
将所述第一前驱体在快速搅拌情况下加入所述第二前驱体中，进行乳化，得到一种乳液；
将所述乳液进行均质3分钟，搅拌降温至45℃左右，将精氨酸/赖氨酸多肽、苯氧乙醇和乙基己基甘油加入搅拌均匀，制得所述视黄醛抗皱纳米精华乳。
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