CN115354435A - Multi-component fiber jean fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents

Multi-component fiber jean fabric and production process thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN115354435A
CN115354435A CN202211045255.0A CN202211045255A CN115354435A CN 115354435 A CN115354435 A CN 115354435A CN 202211045255 A CN202211045255 A CN 202211045255A CN 115354435 A CN115354435 A CN 115354435A
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yarns
warp
yarn
temperature
fabric
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CN115354435B (en
Inventor
杨书华
孙勇
刘霞
贾科
葛丽涛
孙昊
高吉彬
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Shandong Lanyan Textile Garment Co ltd
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Shandong Lanyan Textile Garment Co ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo
    • D06P1/228—Indigo
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of fabric processing, and particularly relates to a multi-component fiber jean fabric and a production process thereof. The warp yarns and the weft yarns of the multi-component fiber jean fabric are all core-spun yarns, the outer-wrapped yarns of the warp yarns are blended by adopting cotton fibers, tencel and mulberry silk, and the outer-wrapped yarns of the weft yarns are blended by adopting cotton fibers, polyester fibers, viscose fibers and cashmere; the organization adopts 3/1 right slant, the warp density is 66 pieces/inch, the weft density is 44-50 pieces/inch, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, and the reed width is 199.8cm; and in the post-finishing process, four grooves are adopted for water desizing, and the post-tentering and shaping are performed after the pre-shrinking. The multi-component fiber jean fabric disclosed by the invention adopts comfortable four-side stretch, the animal fibers such as mulberry silk and cashmere are added, the soft handfeel of the fabric is kept, the Yingdada T400 is added to improve the fabric recovery, and the fitting degree of the fabric for wearing is increased; the invention also provides a production process thereof.

Description

Multi-component fiber jean fabric and production process thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of fabric processing, and particularly relates to a multi-component fiber jean fabric and a production process thereof.
Background
The jean fabric is always popular in all fields due to the unique style and color. The raw material components of the jean fabric can be divided into two types of pure spinning and blended spinning. The elastic jean is made of pure cotton as the main material, and then some other chemical fibers such as terylene, acrylic fiber, vinylon, viscose fiber and the like are added to improve the wear characteristics of the pure cotton jean, especially, spandex is added to improve the elasticity of the jean. In recent years, in order to expand the types and special requirements of jeans fabric, wool, cashmere, silk, hemp and other fibers are selected, and the jeans fabric mainly made of special non-cotton with jeans style is developed.
However, for the multi-component fiber denim fabric, because the characteristics of different fiber types are different, the difficulty in processing the denim fabric is high, and the characteristics of different fiber types need to be considered, so that the advantages of different fibers are retained.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the multi-component fiber jean fabric is provided, comfortable four-sided elasticity is adopted, animal fibers such as mulberry silk and cashmere are added, the soft hand feeling of the fabric is kept, yingwei T400 is added to improve the fabric recovery, and the degree of fitting of the fabric for wearing is increased; the invention also provides a production process thereof.
According to the multi-component fiber denim fabric, warp yarns and weft yarns are core-spun yarns, the outer-wrapped yarns of the warp yarns are blended by adopting cotton fibers, tencel and mulberry silk, and the outer-wrapped yarns of the weft yarns are blended by adopting cotton fibers, polyester fibers, viscose fibers and cashmere; the organization adopts 3/1 right slant, the warp density is 66 pieces/inch, the weft density is 44-50 pieces/inch, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, and the reed width is 199.8cm; and in the post-finishing process, four grooves are adopted for water desizing, and the post-tentering and shaping are performed after the pre-shrinking.
In the invention, the core yarn of the warp adopts 40D denier lycra spandex filament, the outer covering yarn adopts 12-inch slub yarn blended by 65% of cotton fiber, 25% of tencel and 10% of mulberry silk, the twist is 58-60/10cm, the yarn is drafted by 2.4 times, and a yarn steaming process is adopted.
Because the warp contains tencel and mulberry silk, the holding force for spandex silk is reduced relative to pure cotton, so the designed twist is about 2-3 greater than that of normal cotton yarn during spinning.
In addition, the warp adopts a yarn steaming process, one purpose is to increase the holding of the spandex lycra silk by the mulberry silk added in the yarn, and the other purpose is to reduce the warp shrinkage in the post-finishing process.
In the invention, the core yarn of the weft adopts 70D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer covering yarn adopts 16 English yarns blended by 30% of cotton fiber, 30% of polyester fiber, 30% of viscose fiber and 10% of cashmere, the twist is 78-80/10cm, and the draft is 3.5 times.
In the invention, the color of the multi-component fiber denim fabric is preferably the classic denim deep blue color.
In the invention, the post-finishing process adopts four-groove water desizing, and the fabric is pre-shrunk, stentered and shaped, so that the softness of the fabric can be increased.
The production process of the multi-component fiber high-grade jean fabric comprises the following steps: bundle dyeing, warp threading, weaving and after finishing; wherein the bundle dyeing process comprises: ball warp, dyeing, warp separating and sizing.
In the ball passing process, the speed is 250-300m/min, and the tension is 30-35N/ball. The low-speed and low-tension yarn machine has the advantages that the yarn can be prevented from being damaged, and the strength of the yarn is protected.
In the dyeing process, the dyeing solution comprises the following components: 3.9-4.1g/L of indigo powder, 3.5-3.9g/L of sodium hydrosulfite, 3-3.5g/L of scouring penetrant, 25-30g/L of softener and water as solvent; the speed of the vehicle is 30-40m/min, the dye-uptake of the indigo powder is 5-6%, and the moisture regain of the bobbin is 6-8%.
When dyeing, the content of the indigo powder is increased, and the dosage of the penetrant is increased, so that the color penetration is uniform, and the problem of uneven dyeing caused by different dye uptake of cellulose fibers and protein fibers is reduced.
In the warp splitting procedure, the speed is 170-180m/min, and the single yarn tension is 22-26 CN/root. In the warp splitting, dyed bunched warp yarns are re-split into single yarns by a warp splitter and are wound on a warp splitting shaft in parallel.
In the sizing process, double-sizing and double-pressing process configuration is adopted, the vehicle speed is 35-45m/min, the sizing rate is 8-10%, the moisture regain is 9-10%, the viscosity is 6-8 seconds, the elongation is 0.6-1.0%, the temperature of a sizing pan is 90-100 ℃, the pH value is 6-8, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 125-135 ℃, and the temperature of a combined drying cylinder is 115-125 ℃.
During sizing, sizing the dyed yarns through a sizing machine by a warp beam to form a beam; the double-pulp double-pressure process configuration can better adhere yarn hairiness and improve the wear resistance of the yarn.
In the drawing-in process, a 6-leaf harness is used, the number of drop wire rows x the number of sheets: 6 x 716; drawing-in of dropper: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; the ground warp enters 4 reed every time, and the side yarn enters 4 reed every time; the ground organization adopts the following steps: 3, arranging the upper part and the lower part on the left diagonal; the edge organization adopts: 2/2, re-leveling; ground warp drafting sequence: 3. 4, 5 and 6 are penetrated in sequence; number of side yarns: 60X 2; a selvedge penetrating method: from the ground tissue outward, the two lines are symmetrically arranged from the middle to two sides 1212 × 15.
In the weaving process, a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the speed of the loom is 480-510r/min, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, the reed width is 199.8cm, the on-machine weft density is 44-50/inch, the height of a back beam is 12-14mm, the opening is 305-315 degrees, the on-machine tension is 3700-3900N, the workshop temperature is 26-32 ℃, and the relative humidity is 70-75%. The parameter setting of the weaving process aims to mainly solve cloth cover defects such as weft shrinkage, hundred feet and the like.
In the post-finishing process, 1.7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing is firstly adopted for preshrinking, the front-face singeing speed is 44-47m/min, 3-6g/L enzyme is added into a 1#2 water washing groove, clear water is added into a 3#4 groove, the temperature of a double-glue single-wool blanket is preshrinked at 138-148 ℃ at 48-55 ℃; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of the shaping machine is 50-55m/min, and the temperature is 156-165 ℃.
The temperature during after finishing is strictly controlled, the protein fiber can be damaged when the temperature is too high, the spandex yarn is not influenced when the temperature is low, the shrinkage rate is large, and the usability of the garment is not good.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) The multi-component fiber jean fabric produced by the invention contains a plurality of fibers of different materials, the characteristics of the different materials need to be considered during production, and different processes are adopted;
(2) The multi-component fiber jean fabric produced by the invention adopts comfortable four-side stretch, high-grade animal fibers such as mulberry silk, cashmere and the like are added, the soft hand feeling of the fabric is kept, the Yinwida T400 is added to improve the fabric recovery, and the fitting degree of the fabric for wearing is increased.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and modifications of the technical solutions of the present invention by those skilled in the art should be within the scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A multi-component fiber jean fabric, warp yarns and weft yarns are core-spun yarns, the core yarns of the warp yarns adopt 40D denier lycra spandex filaments, the outer-wrapped yarns adopt 12 English bunchy yarns blended by 65% of cotton fibers, 25% of tencel and 10% of mulberry silk, the twist is 58/10cm, and the drafting is 2.4 times; the core yarn of the weft adopts 70D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer package yarn adopts 16 English yarns blended by 30% of cotton fiber, 30% of polyester fiber, 30% of viscose fiber and 10% of cashmere, the twist is 78/10cm, and the draft is 3.5 times; the tissue adopts 3/1 right slant, 66 warp density/inch and 44 weft density/inch.
The production process comprises the following steps:
(1) Beam dyeing:
ball warp: the vehicle speed is 260m/min, and the tension is 30/root;
dyeing: the dyeing liquid comprises the following components: 4.1g/L of indigo powder, 3.5g/L of sodium hydrosulfite, 3g/L of scouring penetrant, 25g/L of softening agent and water as solvent; the vehicle speed is 30m/min, the dye-uptake of the indigo powder is 5.3%, and the bobbin winding moisture regain is 7%;
dividing warp: the vehicle speed is 175m/min, and the single yarn tension is 24 CN/root;
sizing: the double-pulp double-pressure process configuration is adopted, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, the sizing rate is 9 percent, the moisture regain is 9 percent, the viscosity is 6.5 seconds, the elongation is 1 percent, the pulp pot temperature is 95 ℃, the PH value is 7, the drying cylinder temperature is 130 ℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 120 ℃.
(2) Drawing-in:
using 6 harness frames, number of drop wire rows x number of pieces: 6 x 716; drawing-in of dropper: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; the ground warp is fed in every reed, and the side yarn is fed in every reed; the ground organization adopts the following steps: 3, upper 1, lower 1 and right twills; the edge organization adopts: 2/2 of the Chinese medicinal materials are Reping +3/1 \8599; ground warp drafting sequence: 3. 4, 5 and 6 are penetrated in sequence; number of side yarns: 60X 2; a selvedge penetrating method: from the ground tissue to the outside, the two parts 1212 × 15 are symmetrically penetrated from the middle to the two sides.
(3) Weaving:
the weaving process is characterized in that a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the speed of the loom is 500r/min, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, the reed width is 199.8cm, the weft density on the loom is 44 pieces/inch, the height of a back beam is 13mm, the opening is 310 degrees, the tension on the loom is 3800N, the temperature in a workshop is 26 ℃, and the relative humidity is 75 percent.
(4) And (3) after finishing:
firstly, adopting 7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing and preshrinking once, wherein the front side is singed for 45m/min, the enzyme is added into a No. 1 and No. 2 washing groove for 4g/L, the clear water is added into a No. 3 and No. 4 groove, a drying cylinder is at 50 ℃, and the temperature of a double-glue single-wool blanket is preshrinked at 140 ℃; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of the shaping machine is 50m/min, and the temperature is 157 ℃.
Example 2
A multi-component fiber jean fabric, warp yarn and weft yarn are core-spun yarns, the core yarn of the warp yarn adopts 40D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer package yarn adopts 12 English bunchy yarn blended by 65% of cotton fiber, 25% of tencel and 10% of mulberry silk, the twist is 60/10cm, and 2.4 times of drafting; the core yarn of the weft adopts 70D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer package yarn adopts 16 English yarns blended by 30 percent of cotton fiber, 30 percent of polyester fiber, 30 percent of viscose fiber and 10 percent of cashmere, the twist is 80/10cm, and the draft is 3.5 times; the tissue adopts 3/1 right slant, 66 warp density/inch and 48 weft density/inch.
The production process comprises the following steps:
(1) Beam dyeing:
ball warp: the vehicle speed is 270m/min, and the tension is 35/root;
dyeing: the dyeing liquid comprises the following components: 4g/L of indigo powder, 3.9g/L of sodium hydrosulfite, 3g/L of scouring penetrant, 25g/L of softening agent and water as solvent; the vehicle speed is 40m/min, the dye-uptake of the indigo powder is 5.55%, and the moisture regain of a winding is 7.5%;
dividing warp: the vehicle speed is 175m/min, and the single yarn tension is 24 CN/root;
sizing: the double-pulp double-pressure process is adopted for preparation, the speed is 45m/min, the pulp rate is 9.5 percent, the moisture regain is 10 percent, the viscosity is 7.5 seconds, the elongation is 1 percent, the pulp pot temperature is 95 ℃, the PH value is 7, the drying cylinder temperature is 133 ℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 125 ℃.
(2) Drawing-in:
using 6 harness, stop-warp column number x number of sheets: 6 x 716; drawing-in of dropper: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; the ground warp is fed in every reed, and the side yarn is fed in every reed; the ground organization adopts the following steps: 3, upper 1, lower 1 and right twills; the edge organization adopts: 2/2 of the Chinese medicinal materials are Reping +3/1 \8599; ground warp drafting sequence: 3. 4, 5 and 6 are worn in the same direction; number of side yarns: 60X 2; a selvedge penetrating method: from the ground tissue to the outside, the two parts 1212 × 15 are symmetrically penetrated from the middle to the two sides.
(3) Weaving:
the rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the speed of the loom is 500r/min, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, the reed width is 199.8cm, the weft density of the loom is 48 pieces/inch, the height of a back beam is 14mm, the opening is 310 degrees, the tension of the loom is 3800N, the temperature of a workshop is 26 ℃, and the relative humidity is 75 percent.
(4) And (3) after finishing:
firstly, adopting a 7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing and preshrinking, wherein the front surface is singed for 47m/min, the enzyme is added for 6g/L in a 1#2# washing groove, the clear water is added in a 3#4# groove, a drying cylinder is heated for 50 ℃, and the temperature of a double-glue single-wool blanket is preshrinked at 148 ℃; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of a shaping machine is 55m/min, and the temperature is 165 ℃.
Example 3
A multi-component fiber jean fabric, warp yarns and weft yarns are core-spun yarns, the core yarns of the warp yarns adopt 40D denier lycra spandex filaments, the outer-wrapped yarns adopt 12 English bunchy yarns blended by 65% of cotton fibers, 25% of tencel and 10% of mulberry silk, the twist is 60/10cm, and the drafting is 2.4 times; the core yarn of the weft adopts 70D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer package yarn adopts 16 English yarns blended by 30 percent of cotton fiber, 30 percent of polyester fiber, 30 percent of viscose fiber and 10 percent of cashmere, the twist is 80/10cm, and the draft is 3.5 times; the tissue adopts 3/1 right slant, 66 warp density/inch and 44 weft density/inch.
The production process comprises the following steps:
(1) Beam dyeing:
ball warp: the vehicle speed is 270m/min, and the tension is 30/root;
dyeing: the dyeing liquid comprises the following components: 3.9g/L of indigo powder, 3.5g/L of sodium hydrosulfite, 3.5g/L of scouring penetrant, 30g/L of softening agent and water as solvent; the vehicle speed is 30m/min, the dye-uptake of the indigo powder is 5%, and the moisture regaining of a bobbin is 6.5%;
dividing warp: the vehicle speed is 175m/min, and the single yarn tension is 24 CN/root;
sizing: the double-pulp double-pressure process is adopted for preparation, the speed is 35m/min, the pulp rate is 8.5%, the moisture regain is 9%, the viscosity is 6.1 seconds, the elongation is 1%, the temperature of a pulp pot is 90 ℃, the PH value is 7, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 126 ℃, and the combined drying cylinder temperature is 118 ℃.
(2) Drawing-in:
using 6 harness, stop-warp column number x number of sheets: 6 x 716; drawing-in of drop wire: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; the ground warp is fed in every reed, and the side yarn is fed in every reed; the ground organization adopts the following steps: 3, arranging the upper part and the lower part on the left diagonal; the edge organization adopts: 2/2 through Reping +3/1 \8599; ground warp drafting sequence: 3. 4, 5 and 6 are worn in the same direction; number of side yarns: 60X 2; a selvedge penetrating method: from the ground tissue to the outside, the two parts 1212 × 15 are symmetrically penetrated from the middle to the two sides.
(3) Weaving:
the weaving process is characterized in that a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the speed of the loom is 485r/min, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, the reed width is 199.8cm, the weft density on the loom is 44 pieces/inch, the height of a back beam is 12mm, the opening is 310 degrees, the tension on the loom is 3700N, the temperature in a workshop is 26 ℃, and the relative humidity is 75 percent.
(4) And (3) after finishing:
firstly, adopting 7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing and preshrinking once, wherein the front surface singeing is 44m/min, the enzyme is added into a No. 1 and No. 2 water washing groove at 6g/L, the clear water is added into a No. 3 and No. 4 water washing groove, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 48 ℃, and the temperature of a double-glue single-wool blanket is preshrinked at 138 ℃; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of the shaping machine is 50m/min, and the temperature is 156 ℃.
Comparative example 1
A conventional jean fabric, warp yarn adopts 12 English bunchy yarn of all cotton, twist is 56-58/10CM, and the all cotton yarn is not drafted; the weft yarns adopt core-spun yarns, the core yarns adopt two 40D spandex yarns, the outer-spun yarns adopt 15 English yarns blended by 50D terylene denier and 40D spandex yarns, the twist is 72/10cm, and the outer-spun yarns are drafted by 3.3 times; the tissue adopts 3/1 right slant, the warp density is 69 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 53 pieces/inch.
The production process comprises the following steps:
(1) Beam dyeing: ball warp: the vehicle speed is 300m/min, and the tension is 35/root;
dyeing: the dyeing liquid comprises the following components: 4.0g/L of indigo powder, 3.5g/L of sodium hydrosulfite, 3.3g/L of scouring penetrant, 30g/L of softening agent and water as solvent; the vehicle speed is 30m/min, the dyeing rate of the indigo powder is 5.5 percent, and the moisture regain of the bobbin is 7 percent;
dividing warp: the speed is 180m/min, and the single yarn tension is 24 CN/root;
sizing: the double-pulp double-pressure process configuration is adopted, the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the sizing rate is 8.5%, the moisture regain is 9%, the viscosity is 7 seconds, the elongation is 1%, the temperature of a pulp pot is 90 ℃, the PH value is 7, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 130 ℃, and the temperature of a combined drying cylinder is 122 ℃.
(2) Drawing-in:
using 6 harness frames, number of drop wire rows x number of pieces: 6 x 716; drawing-in of dropper: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; the ground warp enters 4 reed every time, and the side yarn enters 4 reed every time; the ground organization adopts the following steps: 3, arranging the upper part and the lower part on the left diagonal; the edge organization adopts: 2/2 through Reping +3/1 \8599; ground warp drafting sequence: 3. 4, 5 and 6 are penetrated in sequence; number of side yarns: 60X 2; selvedge threading method: from the ground tissue to the outside, the two parts 1212 × 15 are symmetrically penetrated from the middle to the two sides.
(3) Weaving:
the rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the speed of the loom is 500r/min, the reed number is 67/10 cm, the reed width is 199.8cm, the weft density of a loom is 46 pieces/inch, the height of a back beam is 12mm, the opening is 310 degrees, the tension of the loom is 3800N, the temperature of a workshop is 26 ℃, and the relative humidity is 75 percent.
(4) And (3) after finishing:
firstly, adopting 7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing and preshrinking once, wherein the front surface singeing is 44m/min, the enzyme is added into a No. 1 and No. 2 water washing groove at 6g/L, the clear water is added into a No. 3 and No. 4 water washing groove, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 48 ℃, and the temperature of a double-glue single-wool blanket is preshrinked at 140 ℃; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of a shaping machine is 50m/min, and the temperature is 165 ℃.
Comparative example 2
The difference between the comparative example and the example 1 is that in the finishing after the step (4), the 7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing and preshrinking are firstly adopted, the front singeing is 44m/min, the enzyme is added into the 1#2 water washing groove at a ratio of 6g/L, the clear water is added into the 3#4 groove, the drying cylinder is 55 ℃, and the temperature of the double-glue single-wool blanket is 150 ℃ for preshrinking; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of the shaping machine is 50m/min, and the temperature is 170 ℃.
The fabrics of the examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance testing in which elastic elongation, elastic recovery, elastic growth were tested according to standard ASTM-D3107, breaking strength was tested according to standard ASTM-D5034, tear strength was tested according to standard ASTM-D1424, and seam slip was tested according to standard ASTM-D1683; and the test results were compared with the requirements of the current quality standards of the united states LEVI' S company, and the results are shown in table 1.
Table 1 results of performance testing
Figure BDA0003822150490000061
Figure BDA0003822150490000071

Claims (10)

1. A multi-component fiber denim fabric is characterized in that: the warp yarns and the weft yarns are core-spun yarns, the outer-wrapped yarns of the warp yarns are blended by adopting cotton fibers, tencel and mulberry silk, and the outer-wrapped yarns of the weft yarns are blended by adopting cotton fibers, polyester fibers, viscose fibers and cashmere; the organization adopts 3/1 right slant, the warp density is 66 pieces/inch, the weft density is 44-50 pieces/inch, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, and the reed width is 199.8cm; and in the post-finishing process, four grooves are adopted for water desizing, and the post-tentering and shaping are performed after the pre-shrinking.
2. The multi-component fiber denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the core yarn of the warp adopts 40D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer package yarn adopts 12 English bunchy yarn blended by 65% of cotton fiber, 25% of tencel and 10% of mulberry silk, the twist is 58-60/10cm, the drafting is 2.4 times, and the yarn steaming process is adopted.
3. The multi-component fiber denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the core yarn of the weft yarn is 70D denier lycra spandex yarn, the outer package yarn is 16 English yarns blended by 30% of cotton fiber, 30% of polyester fiber, 30% of viscose fiber and 10% of cashmere, the twist is 78-80/10cm, and the draft is 3.5 times.
4. A process for producing a multi-component fiber denim fabric according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps: performing bundle dyeing, warp threading, weaving and after finishing; wherein the bundle dyeing process comprises: ball warp, dyeing, warp separating and sizing.
5. The process for producing a multicomponent fiber denim fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the ball warp procedure, the speed is 250-300m/min, and the tension is 30-35N/piece;
in the warp splitting procedure, the speed is 170-180m/min, and the single yarn tension is 22-26 CN/root.
6. The process for producing a multicomponent fiber denim fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the dyeing process, the dyeing solution comprises the following components: 3.9-4.1g/L of indigo powder, 3.5-3.9g/L of sodium hydrosulfite, 3-3.5g/L of scouring penetrant, 25-30g/L of softener and water as solvent; the speed of the vehicle is 30-40m/min, the dye-uptake of the indigo powder is 5-6%, and the moisture regain of the bobbin is 6-8%.
7. The process for producing a multicomponent fiber denim fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the sizing process, double-sizing and double-pressing process configuration is adopted, the vehicle speed is 35-45m/min, the sizing rate is 8-10%, the moisture regain is 9-10%, the viscosity is 6-8 seconds, the elongation is 0.6-1.0%, the temperature of a sizing pot is 90-100 ℃, the pH value is 6-8, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 125-135 ℃, and the temperature of a combined drying cylinder is 115-125 ℃.
8. The process for producing a multicomponent fiber denim fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the drawing-in process, a 6-page heald frame is used, the number of the dropper rows is multiplied by the number of clips: 6 x 716; drawing-in of dropper: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; the ground warp is fed in every reed, and the side yarn is fed in every reed; the ground organization adopts the following steps: 3, arranging the upper part and the lower part on the left diagonal; the edge organization adopts: 2/2 of the raw materials are leveled; ground warp drafting sequence: 3. 4, 5 and 6 are worn in the same direction; number of side yarns: 60X 2; a selvedge penetrating method: from the ground tissue to the outside, the two parts 1212 × 15 are symmetrically penetrated from the middle to the two sides.
9. The production process of the multi-component fiber denim fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the weaving process, a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the speed of the loom is 480-510r/min, the reed number is 63.5/10 cm, the reed width is 199.8cm, the on-machine weft density is 44-50/inch, the height of a back beam is 12-14mm, the opening is 305-315 degrees, the on-machine tension is 3700-3900N, the workshop temperature is 26-32 ℃, and the relative humidity is 70-75%.
10. The process for producing a multicomponent fiber denim fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the post-finishing process, 1.7# thread four-groove double-glue single-wool desizing and preshrinking are firstly adopted, the front singeing speed is 44-47m/min, 3-6g/L of enzyme is added into a 1#2 water washing groove, clear water is added into a 3#4 groove, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 48-55 ℃, and the temperature of a double-glue single-wool blanket is 138-148 ℃ for preshrinking; and then adopting a No. 9 line for shaping, wherein the speed of the shaping machine is 50-55m/min, and the temperature is 156-165 ℃.
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