CN115142275A - 一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法 - Google Patents

一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法 Download PDF

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CN115142275A
CN115142275A CN202210968598.8A CN202210968598A CN115142275A CN 115142275 A CN115142275 A CN 115142275A CN 202210968598 A CN202210968598 A CN 202210968598A CN 115142275 A CN115142275 A CN 115142275A
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imitation leather
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许世铨
仲鸿天
董朋
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Jiangsu Jujie Microfibers Group Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺和含浸工艺；前处理工艺是将面料坯布依次经过精炼工艺、高温起皱工艺、预定型工艺、开纤工艺以及烘干处理；所述面料坯布是由PBT弹性牵伸丝和海岛丝为纱线通过六枚变化缎纹组织编织而成；其中，所述高温起皱工艺的温度为130～140℃，保温时间为30～45min；含浸工艺是将经过染色后的面料浸润水性聚氨酯浆料，再经烘干、磨毛、皂洗、成品定型得到该麂皮绒超仿皮面料。该加工方法获得的面料具有手感柔软、绒感细腻、无露底、光泽柔和典雅的优点，其手感和绒感可以与真皮相媲美，且弹性、韧性和耐磨擦性能也较优异。

Description

一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料加工技术领域，具体涉及一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法。
背景技术
随着科技的快速发展和人们生活水平的提高，消费者的时尚观念也倾向于返璞归真，简约、自然成为当下的主流审美。且随着生态环境的不断恶化，世界各国都意识到保护环境和动物的重要性，使用人造革替代动物真皮已经成为一种趋势。具有超高仿真皮效果的麂皮绒面料，其简约大方的质感吸引了越来越多消费者的青睐，市场发展潜力巨大。但是，现有的人造皮革虽然在一定程度上模仿了真皮的外观效应，但在其弹性回复性及延伸性方面还是存在一定差异。现有的人造皮革不能同时兼顾外观和性能的逼真模仿。此外，现有的人造革成品表面无绒毛或者绒毛不够细腻且会出现露底等缺陷，降低了产品的价值。
发明内容
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法。利用该加工方法获得的面料具有手感柔软、绒感细腻、无露底、光泽柔和典雅的优点，其手感和绒感可以与真皮相媲美，且弹性、韧性和耐磨擦性能也较优异。
为实现上述技术目的，达到上述技术效果，本发明通过以下技术方案实现：
一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺和含浸工艺；
所述前处理工艺是将面料坯布依次经过精炼工艺、高温起皱工艺、预定型工艺、开纤工艺、烘干处理；所述面料坯布是由PBT弹性牵伸丝和海岛丝为纱线通过六枚变化缎纹组织编织而成；其中，所述高温起皱工艺的温度为130～140℃，保温时间为30～45min；
所述含浸工艺是将经过染色后的面料浸润水性聚氨酯浆料，再经烘干、磨毛、皂洗、成品定型得到该麂皮绒超仿皮面料。
进一步的，所述精炼工艺采用的精炼剂为液碱，温度为60～70℃。
进一步的，所述高温起皱工艺的升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min，浴比为1:20，采用的助剂包括精炼剂和螯合剂。
进一步的，所述预定型工艺的工艺条件为：
Figure BDA0003795893940000021
进一步的，所述开纤工艺的开纤温度为110～120℃，保温时间为60min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min，浴比为1：20；开纤助剂包括精炼剂、螯合剂和液碱。
进一步的，所述染色工艺的染色温度为130～135℃，保温时间为40min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min，浴比为1：23，染色助剂包括超细纤维匀染剂和冰醋酸。
进一步的，所述定型工艺的工艺条件为：
Figure BDA0003795893940000031
进一步的，所述水性聚氨酯浆料包含如下重量份数的组分：水性聚氨酯分散体70～95份，碳化二亚胺交联剂1～5份，消泡剂1～5份，填料1～10份，分散剂0.2～0.5份，色浆3～10份，增稠剂0.5～3份。
进一步的，皂洗过程的温度为85℃，保温时间为60min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min；皂洗助剂为除油剂，浴比1：20。
进一步的，成品定型过程的工艺条件为：
Figure BDA0003795893940000032
该成品定型过程采用的定型助剂包括湿磨牢度提升剂、多功能整理剂和抗静电剂。
本发明的有益效果：
本发明的面料坯布采用PBT弹性牵伸丝和海岛丝为纱线原料，并采用六枚变化缎纹组织编织成坯布，再通过高温起皱工艺使面料充分收缩，使得其中的浮长线拱起，然后通过预定型工艺将拱起的浮长线固定成型，如此形成的面料在经过开纤、浸润聚氨酯以及磨毛后其绒感更加紧密、细腻，不会产生漏底。
本发明通过特定的纱线原料、特定的组织结构配合特定的前处理工艺和含浸水性聚氨酯工艺可以获得手感柔软、绒感细腻、无露底且光泽柔和典雅的麂皮绒超仿皮面料；该面料的手感和绒感可以与真皮相媲美，且具有较优异的弹性、弹性回复性、韧性和耐磨擦性能。
具体实施方式
下面将结合具体实施例对本发明中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
实施例
面料坯布：以再生PBT弹性牵伸丝和海岛丝为经纬纱通过六枚变化缎纹组织交织而成。其中经纱为海岛丝，纬纱为PBT弹性牵伸丝。六枚变化缎纹组织中，浮长线为5个组织点，飞数为变数。
该麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺和含浸工艺。
前处理工艺是将面料坯布依次经过精炼工艺、高温起皱工艺、预定型工艺、开纤工艺、烘干处理。
其中，精炼工艺采用BOM精炼机，且采用的精炼剂为液碱，温度为60℃。
其中，高温起皱工艺的温度为130℃，保温时间为30min；升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min；该高温起皱工艺采用的处理液包含精炼剂DL-12％、螯合剂3％，余量为水；该高温起皱工艺的浴比为1:20。
其中，所述预定型工艺的工艺条件为：
Figure BDA0003795893940000051
其中，所述开纤工艺的开纤温度为110℃，保温时间为60min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min；开纤工艺所用的处理液包含精炼剂DL-13％、螯合剂3％、液碱2.3％，余量为水。该开纤工艺采用的浴比为1:20。
开纤工艺完成后，将面料坯布采用含有冰醋酸(1g/L)的处理液进行酸洗处理；处理完成后，将面料坯布进行烘干。
染色工艺的染色温度为135℃，保温时间为40min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min；染色工艺采用的染色液包含超细纤维匀染剂2％，冰醋酸1％，染料RED AM-SLR 0.2％(o.w.f)，染料BLACK AM-R 3.0％(o.w.f)；该染色工艺采用的浴比为1：23。
对染色后的面料进行定型处理；该定型工艺的工艺条件为：
Figure BDA0003795893940000061
含浸工艺是将经过染色定型后的面料浸润水性聚氨酯浆料，再经烘干、磨毛、皂洗、成品定型得到该麂皮绒超仿皮面料；具体过程为：
将面料以一定的速度通过含有两个压轴的含浸槽，含浸槽中的水性聚氨酯浆料充分浸润面料；将经过含浸处理后的面料通过一对轧液轴，以挤出多余的浆料；将经过轧液后的面料进行烘干；利用磨革机对烘干后的面料两面进行打磨；对磨毛后的面料半成品进行皂洗；再对皂洗后的面料进行成品定型，获得该麂皮绒超仿皮面料。
其中，所述水性聚氨酯浆料包含如下重量份数的组分：水性聚氨酯分散体70～95份，碳化二亚胺交联剂1～5份，消泡剂1～5份，填料1～10份，分散剂0.2～0.5份，色浆3～10份，增稠剂0.5～3份。
在本实施例中，水性聚氨酯浆料中的各组分配比具体为：水性聚氨酯分散体85份，碳化二亚胺交联剂3份，消泡剂2份，填料5份，分散剂0.3份，色浆6份，增稠剂2份。
其中，皂洗过程的温度为85℃，保温时间为60min，升温速度为1℃/mi n，降温速度为1.5℃/min；皂洗助剂为除油剂；浴比为1：20。
其中，成品定型过程的工艺条件为：
Figure BDA0003795893940000071
该成品定型过程采用的定型处理液包含湿磨牢度提升剂5％、多功能整理剂KLP-059 1％和抗静电剂1％，余量为水。
本发明通过特定的纱线原料、特定的组织结构配合特定的前处理工艺和含浸水性聚氨酯工艺可以获得手感柔软、绒感细腻、无露底且光泽柔和典雅的麂皮绒超仿皮面料；该面料的手感和绒感可以与真皮相媲美，且具有较优异的弹性、弹性回复性、韧性和耐磨擦性能。
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书内容所作的修改或等效变换，或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。

Claims (10)

1.一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于，包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺和含浸工艺；
所述前处理工艺是将面料坯布依次经过精炼工艺、高温起皱工艺、预定型工艺、开纤工艺以及烘干处理；所述面料坯布是由PBT弹性牵伸丝和海岛丝为纱线通过六枚变化缎纹组织编织而成；其中，所述高温起皱工艺的温度为130～140℃，保温时间为30～45min；
所述含浸工艺是将经过染色后的面料浸润水性聚氨酯浆料，再经烘干、磨毛、皂洗、成品定型得到该麂皮绒超仿皮面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述精炼工艺采用的精炼剂为液碱，温度为60～70℃。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述高温起皱工艺的升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min，浴比为1:20，采用的助剂包括精炼剂和螯合剂。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述预定型工艺的工艺条件为：
Figure FDA0003795893930000011
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述开纤工艺的开纤温度为110～120℃，保温时间为60min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min，浴比为1：20；开纤助剂包括精炼剂、螯合剂和液碱。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述染色工艺的染色温度为130～135℃，保温时间为40min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min，浴比为1：23，染色助剂包括超细纤维匀染剂和冰醋酸。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述定型工艺的工艺条件为：
Figure FDA0003795893930000021
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述水性聚氨酯浆料包含如下重量份数的组分：水性聚氨酯分散体70～95份，碳化二亚胺交联剂1～5份，消泡剂1～5份，填料1～10份，分散剂0.2～0.5份，色浆3～10份，增稠剂0.5～3份。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：皂洗过程的温度为85℃，保温时间为60min，升温速度为1℃/min，降温速度为1.5℃/min；皂洗助剂为除油剂，浴比1：20。
10.根据权利要求1所述的一种麂皮绒超仿皮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：成品定型过程的工艺条件为：
Figure FDA0003795893930000031
该成品定型过程采用的定型助剂包括湿磨牢度提升剂、多功能整理剂和抗静电剂。
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