CN114903824B - 一种舒缓保湿面膜 - Google Patents
一种舒缓保湿面膜 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114903824B CN114903824B CN202210363707.3A CN202210363707A CN114903824B CN 114903824 B CN114903824 B CN 114903824B CN 202210363707 A CN202210363707 A CN 202210363707A CN 114903824 B CN114903824 B CN 114903824B
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- purslane
- extract
- mask
- xylitol
- ethanol extract
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- 239000000469 ethanolic extract Substances 0.000 claims abstract 6
- 229940064064 purslane extract Drugs 0.000 claims description 29
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N xylitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
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- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4'-hydroxyacetophenone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- TVXBFESIOXBWNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Xylitol Natural products OCCC(O)C(O)C(O)CCO TVXBFESIOXBWNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
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- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N meso ribitol Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
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- VKIJBOMCWLTQBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid N-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propanamide Chemical compound C(C1=CC=CC=C1)(=O)O.C(CC)(=O)NC1=C(C=CC=C1)O VKIJBOMCWLTQBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229960003237 betaine Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
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- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-URKRLVJHSA-N (2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2r,4r,5r,6s)-4,5-dihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-[(2r,4r,5r,6s)-4,5,6-trihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical class O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H](OC2[C@H](O[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-URKRLVJHSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920002498 Beta-glucan Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001509 sodium citrate Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K sodium citrate Chemical compound O.O.[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 4
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-BYPYZUCNSA-P L-argininium(2+) Chemical compound NC(=[NH2+])NCCC[C@H]([NH3+])C(O)=O ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-BYPYZUCNSA-P 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960004106 citric acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
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- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003109 Disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Substances 0.000 claims 1
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- 108010059892 Cellulase Proteins 0.000 description 6
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- LXAHHHIGZXPRKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-fluoro-2-methylpyridine Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(F)C=N1 LXAHHHIGZXPRKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P31/00—Antiinfectives, i.e. antibiotics, antiseptics, chemotherapeutics
- A61P31/04—Antibacterial agents
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/005—Antimicrobial preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Communicable Diseases (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Tropical Medicine & Parasitology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Oncology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Respiratory Apparatuses And Protective Means (AREA)
Abstract
本申请提供了一种舒缓保湿面膜，其含有经过酶解的马齿苋醇提物。本申请的面膜提供了良好的保湿和抗菌性能。
Description
发明领域：
本申请属于化妆品领域，具体地，本申请提供了一种含马齿苋提取物的舒缓保湿面膜。
背景技术：
由于可以满足人们不断提高的健康意识，含天然提取物成分面膜产品在市场上收到越来越广泛的关注。天然提取物在保持健康特性的同时，还可以提供包括抗氧化，抗菌，美白，保湿在内的多种功能。采用酶解、提纯、改性等手段则可以进一步提高其效果。
先前的诸多研究已经显示了马齿苋提取物具备抗敏、美白、抗氧化、抗菌、抗肿瘤等多种功能，是面膜产品中有潜力的天然提取物原料之一，对其进一步开发可以为舒缓保湿类面膜提供良好的原料。
发明内容
针对上述问题，申请人详细研究了马齿苋提取物的进一步精制方法及其在面膜中的应用，发现以纤维素酶、碱性蛋白酶和琼胶酶处理马齿苋醇提取物，可以有效提高其抗菌，特别是抗细菌性能(推测酶解某些多糖后的某些寡糖的出现或者先前被多糖包括的某些小肽的释放提供了这些性能)。并且在随后的实际产品测试中发现酶解产品还提供了更佳的保湿能力。
一方面，本申请提供了一种舒缓保湿面膜，其特征在于，其包含面膜精华液，所述面膜精华液包含马齿苋提取物。
进一步地，所述面膜精华液还包含甘油、甜菜碱、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、木糖醇基葡糖苷、β-葡聚糖、糖类同分异构体、乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、羟基积雪草甙、对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、丙烯酸/酯类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、透明质酸钠、丁二醇、精氨酸、羟乙基纤维素、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、1,2-戊二醇、EDTA二钠、香精、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、脱水木糖醇、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、木糖醇、葡萄糖。
进一步地，所述面膜精华液由以下成分组成：马齿苋提取物5％、甘油3％、甜菜碱1％、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20 0.8％、木糖醇基葡糖苷1％、β-葡聚糖1.5％、糖类同分异构体0.8％、乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物0.6％、羟基积雪草甙0.5％、对羟基苯乙酮0.06％、1,2-己二醇0.3％、丙烯酸/酯类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％、透明质酸钠0.05％、丁二醇0.1％、精氨酸0.1％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油0.2％、1,2-戊二醇0.05％、EDTA二钠0.05％、香精0.08％、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.005％、脱水木糖醇0.04％、柠檬酸0.004％、柠檬酸钠0.004％、木糖醇0.1％、葡萄糖0.2％、余量水。
进一步地，所述面膜还包含基布。
进一步地，所述马齿苋提取物为经过酶解的醇提物。
进一步地，所述酶解使用的酶选自纤维素酶、琼胶酶和蛋白酶中的一种或多种。
进一步地，所述酶解使用的酶为纤维素酶和琼胶酶。
进一步地，所述酶解为使用纤维素酶100U/g马齿苋提取物和琼胶酶10U/g马齿苋提取物，室温下处理1小时。
另一方面，本申请提供了经过酶解的马齿苋醇提物在制备抗菌或者保湿化妆品中的应用。
进一步地，酶解使用的酶为纤维素酶和琼胶酶。
面膜基布可以选择各种本领域中已知的类型，包括但不限于基于棉布的基布、基于化学纤维的基布、基于天然高分子材料如多糖的基布等。
本申请的面膜精华液和面膜产品的制备过程可以根据需要选择适合的灭菌、取样、检测、存储、包装等步骤，这些部分本领域技术人员公知或者可以从适合的教科书、国家标准中获得。
具体实施方式
主要材料和试剂
马齿苋提取物：申请人购买四川产地马齿苋制备醇提物(粉碎、过40目筛、使用70％乙醇以1:20的料液比在50摄氏度下提取1小时、过滤后将滤液旋转蒸发并干燥)；
纤维素酶、碱性蛋白酶：购自河南华悦化工产品有限公司(最适pH 7.0和7.5)；
琼胶酶：琼胶酶市售产品主要用于分子生物学实验，价格昂贵；本申请的实验/产品中使用琼胶酶由合作单位厦门大学某研究组提供，形式为粗酶液冻干粉(最适pH为8.0，下面计算酶活力时DNS法测定每分钟产生1μmol还原糖所需的酶量计为1U)；
其余原料甘油、甜菜碱、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、木糖醇基葡糖苷、β-葡聚糖、糖类同分异构体、乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、羟基积雪草甙、对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、丙烯酸/酯类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、透明质酸钠、丁二醇、精氨酸、羟乙基纤维素、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、1,2-戊二醇、EDTA二钠、香精、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、脱水木糖醇、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、木糖醇、葡萄糖均为正规企业生产的符合化妆品要求的种类。
电容式水分测试仪：北京中峤博联生产的MF型。
实施例1马齿苋提取物的酶处理过程
以下仅展示代表性处理过程，大量摸索实验结果未展示：
马齿苋提取物酶解产物1：
将按照上述方法自制的马齿苋醇提取物配置为10％w/v的水溶液，以HCl或NaOH调pH至7.0，加入纤维素酶100U/g马齿苋提取物，室温下处理1小时，加热灭酶。
马齿苋提取物酶解产物2：
将按照上述方法自制的马齿苋醇提取物配置为10％w/v的水溶液，以HCl或NaOH调pH至8.0，加入琼胶酶10U/g马齿苋提取物，室温下处理1小时，加热灭酶。
马齿苋提取物酶解产物3：
将按照上述方法自制的马齿苋醇提取物配置为10％w/v的水溶液，以HCl或NaOH调pH至8.0，加入纤维素酶100U/g马齿苋提取物和琼胶酶10U/g马齿苋提取物，室温下处理1小时，加热灭酶。
马齿苋提取物酶解产物4：
将按照上述方法自制的马齿苋醇提取物配置为10％w/v的水溶液，以HCl或NaOH调pH至7.5，加入纤维素酶100U/g马齿苋提取物和碱性蛋白酶30U/g马齿苋提取物,室温下处理1小时，加热灭酶。
实施例2马齿苋提取物的抗菌性能测试
将前述的马齿苋提取物/酶解产物配制/稀释为浓度梯度0.5％、1％、2％、5％、7.5％、10％、20％w/v的水溶液；以水为阴性对照。
取1×107CFU/mL的菌悬液1mL，加入前述前述的马齿苋提取物/酶解产物水溶液1mL以及对应液体培养基1.5mL；混合均匀后37摄氏度培养48小时；观察抑菌情况。结果如表1所示：
表1马齿苋提取物的最小抑菌浓度
结果表明：马齿苋提取物有明显的抑菌效果，但对细菌类的抑菌效果明显不及真菌；在经过酶解后，抑菌效果均有提高(单纯纤维素酶解除外)；使用纤维素和琼胶酶符合酶解效果最好，不仅将两种细菌MIC降低一倍，同时也降低了马拉色菌的MIC。
实施例3面膜的基本制备过程
面膜精华液的配方为：
马齿苋提取物5％、甘油3％、甜菜碱1％、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20 0.8％、木糖醇基葡糖苷1％、β-葡聚糖1.5％、糖类同分异构体0.8％、乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物0.6％、羟基积雪草甙0.5％、对羟基苯乙酮0.06％、1,2-己二醇0.3％、丙烯酸/酯类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％、透明质酸钠0.05％、丁二醇0.1％、精氨酸0.1％、羟乙基纤维素0.1％、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油0.2％、1,2-戊二醇0.05％、EDTA二钠0.05％、香精0.08％、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.005％、脱水木糖醇0.04％、柠檬酸0.004％、柠檬酸钠0.004％、木糖醇0.1％、葡萄糖0.2％、余量为水。
制备过程如下：
(1)将水、甘油、甜菜碱、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、丙烯酸/酯类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、羟乙基纤维素、EDTA二钠、透明质酸钠投入水锅中，32rpm搅拌并加热至75摄氏度，搅拌直至固体完全溶解；
(2)将水锅降温至60摄氏度，加入对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、精氨酸，28rpm搅拌15分钟；
(3)将水锅降温至45摄氏度，加入马齿苋提取物、木糖醇基葡糖苷、木糖醇、脱水木糖醇、葡萄糖、β-葡聚糖、糖类同分异构体、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、1,2-戊二醇、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、丁二醇、乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、香精、羟基积雪草甙28rpm搅拌15分钟。
实施例4面膜的保湿性能测试
使用前述马齿苋提取物酶解产物3和未酶解的马齿苋提取物按照实施例3的方法制备了面膜精华液产品。
参照轻工业行业标准QB/T-4256-2011进行保湿效果实验：
选取20-30岁健康女性志愿者20名，随机分为两组(实验前72小时未使用其他化妆品)；请志愿者在24摄氏度，50％相对湿度的恒温恒湿室内停留休息1小时；将5cm×5cm棉布基布浸于精华液中5分钟后取出，覆盖于受试者右前臂内侧；在1h、2h、3h、4h使用上述电容式水分测试仪测定皮肤水合状态：
上述结果可见，酶解后多糖形式的变化对面膜保湿性能的提高，特别是2h后保湿性能的提高也有所帮助。
Claims (3)
1.一种舒缓保湿面膜，其特征在于，所述舒缓保湿面膜包含面膜精华液，所述面膜精华液包含马齿苋提取物；所述马齿苋提取物的制备方法包括：将马齿苋乙醇提取物配制为10％w/v的水溶液，以HCl或NaOH调pH至8.0，加入纤维素酶100U/g马齿苋乙醇提取物和琼胶酶10U/g马齿苋乙醇提取物，室温下处理1小时后加热灭酶获得；所述马齿苋乙醇提取物的制备方法为：将马齿苋粉碎、过40目筛、使用70％乙醇以1:20的料液比在50摄氏度下提取1小时、将提取液过滤后将滤液旋转蒸发并干燥得到马齿苋乙醇提取物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的舒缓保湿面膜，其中所述面膜精华液还包含甘油、甜菜碱、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、木糖醇基葡糖苷、β-葡聚糖、糖类同分异构体、乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、羟基积雪草甙、对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、丙烯酸/酯类/C10-30 烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、透明质酸钠、丁二醇、精氨酸、羟乙基纤维素、PEG-60 氢化蓖麻油、1,2-戊二醇、EDTA 二钠、香精、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、脱水木糖醇、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、木糖醇和葡萄糖。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的舒缓保湿面膜，所述舒缓保湿面膜还包含基布。
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