CN114886823B

CN114886823B - Composition with anti-aging effect, and glycosyl body and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114886823B
Application number: CN202210733092.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 王晗宁; 毕天宇; 邱玉想; 陈静; 陈倪; 蒋丽刚
Original assignee: Proya Cosmetics Co Ltd
Current assignee: Proya Cosmetics Co Ltd
Priority date: 2022-06-27
Filing date: 2022-06-27
Publication date: 2023-10-13
Anticipated expiration: 2042-06-27
Also published as: CN114886823A

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition with anti-aging effect, a glycosyl body and a preparation method thereof, which are characterized in that: the composition with anti-aging effect comprises astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and semen plantaginis extract at a mass ratio of 1:0.5-3:0.5-1:1-5. The glycosome comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5-10% of an anti-aging efficacy composition, 0.5-2% of lecithin, 60-75% of a film glidant and the balance of water, wherein the film glidant consists of a Sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to a mass ratio of 1:25-50:50-80. The composition has excellent anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, and the liposome can be loaded with astaxanthin, tiliroside, rutin and plantago seed extract simultaneously, and has the advantages of good system stability, long epidermis residence time and good sustained and controlled release effect.

Description

Composition with anti-aging effect, and glycosyl body and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic preparation, in particular to a composition with an anti-aging effect, a glycosyl body and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Natural aging is a complex biological change including the accumulation of stress, injury, infection, decline of immune response, metabolic disorder, etc., and a series of changes occur in skin cells and immune tissues. The process of natural aging is indistinguishable from oxidative and inflammatory injury, and thus protection against abnormal inflammatory attacks and slowing down the oxidative process is of paramount importance.

Inflammation is one of the pathological features of cellular aging, normal inflammatory response is a nonspecific immunity for protecting humans from fatal injury, and abnormal and excessive inflammatory response is involved in numerous aging-related disease processes such as cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases, alzheimer's disease, etc., and likewise abnormal inflammatory response also aggravates the aging process of skin, and aging requires corresponding intervention for these inflammatory responses.

Oxidative damage includes in vivo damaged protein accumulation due to reduced protease defenses, free radical induced DNA damage, in vivo lipid oxidation, progressive increase of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) generated by non-enzymatic glycation reactions, etc. Vitamin E, vitamin C and polyphenol components are traditional and effective antioxidant active components, but most antioxidant active components have the stability problem that the antioxidant active components are easy to oxidize, and special means are needed for protection treatment.

The liposome, namely the glycosylated liposome, is a novel lipid carrier developed on the basis of the traditional liposome, and besides lecithin inherent in the liposome, a specific proportion of membrane glidant such as polyalcohol such as glycerol or substances containing sugar elements is added, so that the liposome can load high-content active substances, not only can effectively improve the permeability and solubility of the active substances, but also the prepared liposome has small and uniform particle size, better stability and good sustained and controlled release effect, and the retention time of a epidermis layer is long. The invention prepares the anti-aging composition formed by combining the components in a specific proportion into the glycosyl body, and has the beneficial characteristics of improving the stability and the utilization rate of active substances and delaying skin aging in multiple dimensions.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a composition with an anti-aging effect, a glycosyl body and a preparation method thereof, wherein the composition has an excellent anti-aging effect, and the glycosyl body can simultaneously load a plurality of active substances and has the advantages of good system stability, long epidermis residence time and good sustained and controlled release effect.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme: a composition having anti-aging efficacy, characterized by: comprises astaxanthin, tiliroside, rutin and semen plantaginis extract at a mass ratio of 1:0.5-3:0.5-1:1-5.

A composition having anti-aging efficacy in a glycosome characterized by: the composite material consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 5-10% of an anti-aging effect composition, 0.5-2% of lecithin, 60-75% of a film glidant and the balance of water, wherein the anti-aging effect composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:0.5-3:0.5-1:1-5, and the film glidant consists of a sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:25-50:50-80.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the composition with anti-aging effect, which is characterized by comprising the following steps of: the method comprises the following steps:

A. weighing 5-10% of anti-aging efficacy composition, 0.5-2% of lecithin, 60-75% of film glidant and the balance of water according to the following mass ratio; the anti-aging efficacy composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:0.5-3:0.5-1:1-5, and the film glidant consists of Sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:25-50:50-80;

B. mixing the lecithin and the glycerol weighed in the step A, heating to 50-60 ℃, uniformly stirring, and adding the Sphingomonas fermentation product extract to obtain a premix A;

C. mixing the anti-aging effect composition weighed in the step A with ethanol, and uniformly stirring to obtain a premix B;

D. and (3) mixing the premix A and the premix B, heating to 60-65 ℃, uniformly stirring at 1500-2000rpm, adding into the water weighed in the step (A), and homogenizing for 3-5 times under high pressure circulation at 1000-1500bar pressure to obtain the composition with anti-aging effect.

The ASTAXANTHIN (ASTAXANTHIN) has the serial number of 06926 in the name catalog of used cosmetic raw materials (2021 edition) in China, is a natural antioxidant, and can effectively remove oxygen free radicals in cells and enhance the regeneration capacity of the cells. In addition to the anti-oxidation effect of free radicals, astaxanthin has anti-inflammatory effect, and unlike hormone medicines, astaxanthin has anti-inflammatory mechanism of reducing the production of inflammatory factors and cutting off the transmission signal path of inflammatory factors.

The TILIROSIDE (Tilia miqueliana) has CAS number 20316-62-5, is a flavonoid compound, and has strong antioxidant, free radical eliminating and anti-inflammatory activities.

The RUTIN (RUTIN) has a serial number of 08463 in the name catalog of used cosmetics raw materials (2021 edition) in China, is also called RUTIN, is a natural flavonoid glycoside, has the effects of resisting oxidation, inflammation and allergy, and the antioxidation effect of RUTIN is realized by enhancing the SOD activity of an organism and promoting the removal of oxygen free radicals. In addition, rutin has better anti-radiation and anti-free radical effects on skin and has extremely strong absorption effects on ultraviolet rays and X rays.

The plantain (PLANTAGO MAJOR) seed extract of the invention has a serial number of 01733 in the name catalog of used cosmetic raw materials (2021 edition) in China, namely plantain glycoside, which is a flavonoid glucoside, can inhibit saccharification of collagen, SOD and lysozyme in keratin and dermis, and improve skin yellowing, loss of elasticity and other conditions.

The phosphatidylcholine content in the lecithin is not less than 75%, and the commercially available products such as S75 of Lipoid;

the SPHINGOMONAS (SPHINGOMONAS) fermentation product extract is prepared by microbial fermentation, is a natural stabilizer, has a natural double-helix structure formed by a linear main chain with 4 sugar units and 2 sugar unit side chains, is high in stability and good in acid-base and electrolyte tolerance, and is commercially available from LUBRIZOL corporation in the United states, and the specific product name is KELCO-CARE ™ Diutan Gum.

The composition with anti-aging effect is composed of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract in a specific proportion, and has good anti-aging effect from four layers of synergistic effects of antioxidation, anti-saccharification, anti-inflammatory and anti-sensitization.

In order to improve the stability and transdermal absorbability of the composition with the anti-aging effect, the invention adopts the sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol, ethanol and lecithin in a specific proportion to prepare the composition with the anti-aging effect into a glycosyl body, and the composition can be simultaneously loaded with astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract, and can also improve the transdermal property of the composition.

The prepared glycosomes have good stability, long retention time of epidermis and good sustained and controlled release effect, and can continuously and effectively play roles.

In order to confirm the beneficial effects of the present invention, the present invention conducted the following experiments.

1. In vitro transdermal test

The liposome of the composition with anti-aging effect prepared in example 1 (wherein mass percentage of psyllium seed extract was 4.0%) was selected as sample a, and the same concentration of the composition with anti-aging effect as that in sample a (without Sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerin and ethanol, and water was used to make up this part) was synchronously used as sample B.

An appropriate receiving medium was selected, and an in vitro transdermal test was performed using the modified Franz Chi Fa with the abdominal skin of the rat as a transdermal barrier, and the samples were uniformly added into the supply tank in equal amounts, and were sampled in parallel with 6 parts at a predetermined time point, and the content was measured using the psyllium seed extract as a marker, and the results are shown in table 1.

TABLE 1 skin penetration test results

Simultaneously, the stratum corneum and epidermis of the abdominal skin of the rat after the test was separated, and the content of psyllium seed extract in each layer was measured, and the results are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2 skin retention test results

From the experimental results in tables 1 and 2, the 12-hour cumulative transmittance of the psyllium seed extract in sample a was 36.68% and the accumulation of the epidermis layer was 44.9% which were both greater than that in sample B, indicating that the liposomes of the compositions with anti-aging effect prepared according to the present invention penetrated into and accumulated in the epidermis layer faster and the release rate was stable and sustained.

2. Stability test

The liposome of the composition with anti-aging effect prepared in example 1 (wherein the mass percentage of the psyllium seed extract is 4.0%) was selected as a sample C, and the stability test was performed at 25℃and 40℃respectively, and the psyllium seed extract was used as a marker, and the content thereof was measured at weeks 1, 2, 3 and 4 respectively and the appearance of the sample was observed, and the test results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 stability test results

As shown in the experimental results of Table 3, after the stability test for 4 weeks, the retention rate of the psyllium seed extract in the sample C is not lower than 99.7%, and the appearance is not obviously changed, which indicates that the stability of the liposome of the composition with anti-aging effect prepared by the invention is good.

3. In vitro antioxidant test

The preparation method comprises the steps of selecting a glycosyl body of the composition with anti-aging effect prepared in example 1 as a sample D, measuring the DPPH free radical scavenging capacity, preparing to-be-measured liquids with different concentrations by taking vitamin C as a control group, respectively adding DPPH absolute ethanol solution, uniformly mixing, standing at room temperature in a dark place, measuring the absorbance of each group at 517nm, and calculating the DPPH free radical scavenging rate (taking vitamin C as a control), wherein the result is shown in figure 1.

As can be seen from FIG. 1, in the mass concentration range of 0.50-2.00mg/mL, the DPPH radical scavenging rate of sample D increases with the increase of concentration, and the DPPH radical scavenging half-maximal inhibitory concentration IC of the glycosomes of the composition with anti-aging effect provided by the invention ₅₀ 0.67mg/mL.

4. Human efficacy test

60 female volunteers aged 35-50 years and positive for the lactic acid stimulation test were selected and divided into 5 groups of 12 persons each. During the test period, volunteers tried the essence in the whole area twice a day in the morning and evening, respectively, and the formula of the essence is shown in table 4.

Table 4 essence for testing human efficacy

The preparation process of the added glycosyl bodies in each group of used Jinghua is identical, wherein the glycosyl body A is the glycosyl body prepared in the example 1, the preparation process and the composition of the B-E group glycosyl bodies are identical to those of the glycosyl body A except for the active composition, the deficiency part caused by the difference of active substances in the compositions is supplemented by water in equal quantity, and the specific composition of the anti-aging efficacy composition in the glycosyl bodies A-E is shown in the table 5:

TABLE 5 content of anti-aging efficacy compositions in the liposomes A-E

The cheek of volunteers was selected as the test site, and the skin was visited once before and after 4 and 8 weeks of use, respectively, for 3 times in total, the skin moisture loss and wrinkle conditions were measured by the same person using a German CK company TM300 skin percutaneous moisture loss tester, a German PROMIS PICO wrinkle measuring instrument, and a American CANFIELD company VISIA CR, respectively, and red area analysis was performed by collecting the front side image of volunteers using professional software, wherein the skin moisture loss measurement index was L, the larger the number indicated the more moisture loss, the skin moisture retention and barrier function were worse, the larger the wrinkle measurement index was SEW, the deeper the wrinkles were, the larger the red area indicated the more sensitive and inflammation degree were, the change amplitude of L and SEW in each group was calculated, and the change rate was calculated, and the results are shown in Table 6. The corresponding group of the sugar containing body A is A, the corresponding group of the sugar containing body B is B, the corresponding group of the sugar containing body C is C, the corresponding group of the sugar containing body D is D, and the corresponding group of the sugar containing body E is E.

TABLE 6 results of human efficacy tests

As shown in Table 6, the absolute values of the percutaneous water loss and the change rate of the areas of wrinkles and red areas of group E are the highest, i.e. the aging resistance of the group is the best, which indicates that the aging resistance of the human body of the liposome prepared by the aging resistant composition of the invention matched in a specific ratio is good, and if any one of the compositions is absent, the effect is inferior to that of the composition with the aging resistance and the liposome thereof provided by the invention.

In conclusion, the composition with the anti-aging effect and the glycosyl body thereof have excellent anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, and the glycosyl body of the composition can be loaded with astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantago seed extract simultaneously, and has the advantages of good system stability, long epidermis residence time and good sustained and controlled release effect.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the results of an in vitro antioxidant experiment.

Detailed Description

Example 1: a glycosyl body of a composition with anti-aging effect is prepared by the following steps:

step one: weighing 8% of an anti-aging efficacy composition, 1.2% of lecithin, 65% of a film glidant and the balance of water to complement the materials according to the mass ratio, wherein the anti-aging efficacy composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:0.5:1:2.5, and the film glidant consists of a sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:45:70;

step two: mixing lecithin and glycerol, heating to 50-60deg.C, stirring, and adding Sphingomonas fermentation product extract to obtain premix A;

step three: mixing and stirring the anti-aging composition and ethanol uniformly to obtain a premix B;

step four: mixing the pre-mixture A, B, heating to 60-65deg.C, stirring at 1500-2000rpm, adding into water, and homogenizing at 1000-1500bar under high pressure for 3-5 times to obtain the final product.

Example 2: a glycosyl body of a composition with anti-aging effect is prepared by the following steps:

step one: weighing 10% of an anti-aging efficacy composition, 2% of lecithin, 75% of a film glidant and the balance of water to complement the materials according to the mass ratio, wherein the anti-aging efficacy composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:1.5:0.5:3, and the film glidant consists of a sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:50:80;

Example 3: a glycosyl body of a composition with anti-aging effect is prepared by the following steps:

step one: weighing 5% of an anti-aging efficacy composition, 0.5% of lecithin, 70% of a film glidant and the balance of water to complement the materials according to the mass ratio, wherein the anti-aging efficacy composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:3.8:5, and the film glidant consists of a sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:30:50;

Example 4: a glycosyl body of a composition with anti-aging effect is prepared by the following steps:

step one: weighing 7.5% of an anti-aging efficacy composition, 2% of lecithin, 60% of a film glidant and the balance of water to complement the ingredients according to the mass ratio, wherein the anti-aging efficacy composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:2:1:1, and the film glidant consists of a sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:25:55;

Example 5: a glycosyl body of a composition with anti-aging effect is prepared by the following steps:

step one: weighing 6% of an anti-aging efficacy composition, 1.5% of lecithin, 67.5% of a film glidant and the balance of water according to the mass ratio, wherein the anti-aging efficacy composition consists of astaxanthin, tilianin, rutin and plantain seed extract according to the mass ratio of 1:2.5:0.6:4.5, and the film glidant consists of a sphingomonas fermentation product extract, glycerol and ethanol according to the mass ratio of 1:35:75;

The previous description of the disclosed embodiments is provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the present invention. Various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown herein but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a composition with anti-aging effect, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps: