CN114875547B - 弹力管状面料及其生产方法 - Google Patents

弹力管状面料及其生产方法 Download PDF

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CN114875547B
CN114875547B CN202210398220.9A CN202210398220A CN114875547B CN 114875547 B CN114875547 B CN 114875547B CN 202210398220 A CN202210398220 A CN 202210398220A CN 114875547 B CN114875547 B CN 114875547B
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warp
weft
yarns
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CN114875547A (zh
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张春花
王怡怡
黄程程
赵海涛
李莎
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Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
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    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks or flaps
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
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    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel

Abstract

本发明属于纺织工程技术领域,具体涉及一种弹力管状面料及其生产方法,所述弹力管状面料为梭织面料,使用双层平纹组织,采用在一定间隔宽度上加接结点,接结点在经向成竖条状排列,竖条状接结点在一根经纱上,使上下两层形成沿经向的管状竖条。再利用下层面料弹力纬纱的高收缩性,使面料上层自然凸起,形成立体的管状面料。本发明工艺条件简单、容易控制且生产效率高。面料相对传统织造的管状组织手感柔软,弹性大,面料纬向具有30%以上的弹性,穿着舒适性高,在服装上不再只作为装饰点缀用,可用于休闲、婴幼儿和家居服市场。

Description

弹力管状面料及其生产方法
技术领域
本发明属于纺织工程技术领域,具体涉及一种弹力管状面料及其生产方法。
背景技术
随着社会的发展和科技的进步,服装面料的结构和档次越来越多样,人们对面料的需求越来越高,不仅要求面料有最基本的功能性,还要符合当前的流行趋势和个性化体现,平面的面料已经不能满足人们的需求,具有立体感的面料越来越受到年轻人的欢迎。
目前市面上的立体结构面料也占有小部分比例,但使用传统的设计方法还是存在一定的缺陷。比如传统的管状织物,沿纬纱方向平行排列,首先,容易出现因纬斜导致整个花型沿幅宽方向倾斜,影响后期服装的裁剪和缝制;其次,传统的管状织物在织造的过程中,因纬密要比经密大很多,甚至是经密的两倍以上,织造速度慢,效率低,并且因为纬密太大,使得面料的手感僵硬,限制了管状织物在服装上的应用,只能作为部分装饰点缀在服装上;再次,管状面料在织造过程中,要分两个经轴分别控制张力,这给织造工艺中张力的控制增加了很大的难度。
针对如上所述的问题,实用新型专利CN201420516950.5和发明专利CN201410458329.2公开了一种宽幅管状织物及其织造方法,通过将管状织物采用沿经纱方向织造顶纱层和底纱层,然后在纬纱方向将顶纱层和底纱层链接在一起,使面料呈现管状的立体结构,改善了传统管状织物的部分弊端,但是在织造过程中仍然需要两个织轴单独控制,在两层纱的分配设计比较复杂,对整经、浆纱、织造等工序要求很高。面料较硬没有弹力,作为服装穿着舒适度不高。
为了适应市场的要求,降低产品成本,降低生产难度,增加面料舒适度,有必要开发一种手感柔软,弹力舒适且生产简单的弹力管状面料。
发明内容
本发明要解决的技术问题是:克服现有技术的不足,提供一种弹力管状面料及其生产方法,生产工艺简单,生产的面料手感柔软,弹力舒适。
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的技术方案如下:
本发明所述的弹力管状面料为梭织面料,使用双层平纹组织,上层面料纬向采用收缩小无弹性的纬纱,下层面料纬向采用短纤包芯莱卡纱或长丝包缠莱卡纱,上下层经纱的原料和纱支相同,采用无弹性的纱线。
面料织物的纱支范围为8.3tex~14.6tex。
本发明所述的弹力管状面料的生产方法,采用在一定间隔宽度上加接结点,接结点在经向成竖条状排列,竖条状接结点在一根经纱上,使上下两层形成沿经向的管状竖条,再利用下层面料弹力纬纱的高收缩性,使面料上层自然凸起,形成立体的管状面料。
经密866根/10cm~512根/10cm,纬密710根/英寸~470根/英寸;穿筘入数2入或4入。
上下两层经纬向密度比均为1:1。
两根带有接结点的经纱间隔距离0.4cm~1cm,每织入四根纬纱,加一个接结点。
纬向整理缩率设计30%~40%,纬向织造缩率3.5%~6.5%。
经向整理缩率设计5%~8%,经向织造缩率7%~10%。
整理加工保证面料缩水稳定,需要经过两遍干定型工艺,具体流程为:干定型→卷染退浆→烘干→干定型→溢流水洗→脱水→开幅→超柔软。其中,干定型温度为185℃~195℃。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有以下有益效果:
本发明所述的管状弹力面料的设计工艺及其生产方法,工艺条件简单、容易控制且生产效率高。面料相对传统织造的管状组织手感柔软,弹性大,面料纬向具有30%以上的弹性,穿着舒适性高,在服装上不再只作为装饰点缀用,可用于休闲、婴幼儿和家居服市场。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步的说明。
实施例1
采用双层平纹组织设计,每间隔0.5cm加接结点,每织入四根纬纱,在同一根经纱上加一个接结点,接结点在经向成竖条状排列。
上层面料纬向采用纯棉14.6tex,下层面料纬向采用纯棉14.6tex包莱卡40D,经纱采用纯棉14.6tex。
经密512根/10cm,纬密470根/10cm。穿筘入数2入。
上下层经纱密度均为256根/10cm,上下层纬纱密度均为235根/10cm。
纬向整理缩率设计32.52%,纬向织造缩率6.46%。
经向整理缩率设计6%,经向织造缩率8%。
整理加工保证面料缩水稳定,需要经过两遍干定型工艺,具体流程为:干定型→卷染退浆→烘干→干定型→溢流水洗→脱水→开幅→超柔软。干定型温度195℃。
实施例2
采用双层平纹组织设计,每间隔0.7cm加接结点,每织入四根纬纱,在同一根经纱上加一个接结点。接结点在经向成竖条状排列。
上层面料纬向采用天丝9.7tex,下层面料纬向采用纯棉11.7tex包莱卡40D,经纱采用天丝9.7tex。
经密630根/10cm,纬密552根/10cm。穿筘入数4入。
上下层经纱密度均为315根/10cm,上下层纬纱密度均为276根/10cm。
纬向整理缩率设计31.21%,纬向织造缩率5.71%。
经向整理缩率设计5.5%,经向织造缩率8.5%。
整理加工保证面料缩水稳定,需要经过两遍干定型工艺,具体流程为:干定型→卷染退浆→烘干→干定型→溢流水洗→脱水→开幅→超柔软。干定型温度195℃。
实施例3
采用双层平纹组织设计,每间隔0.6cm加接结点,每织入四根纬纱,在同一根经纱上加一个接结点,接结点在经向成竖条状排列。
上层面料纬向采用竹纤维/涤纶混纺(比例50/50)纱线11.7tex,下层面料纬向采用涤纶75D包低温莱卡40D,经纱采用竹纤维/涤纶混纺(比例50/50)纱线11.7tex。
经密708根/10cm,纬密630根/10cm。穿筘入数4入。
上下层经纱密度均为354根/10cm,上下层纬纱密度均为315根/10cm。
纬向整理缩率设计33.75%,纬向织造缩率5.21%。
经向整理缩率设计5.8%,经向织造缩率7.8%。
整理加工保证面料缩水稳定,需要经过两遍干定型工艺,具体流程为:干定型→卷染退浆→烘干→干定型→溢流水洗→脱水→开幅→超柔软。干定型温度185℃。
对实施例1-3的制品进行性能测试,测试结果见表1。
表1实施例1-3制品性能测试结果
当然,上述内容仅为本发明的较佳实施例,不能被认为用于限定对本发明的实施例范围。本发明也并不仅限于上述举例,本技术领域的普通技术人员在本发明的实质范围内所做出的均等变化与改进等,均应归属于本发明的专利涵盖范围内。

Claims (5)

1.一种弹力管状面料,其特征在于:所述弹力管状面料为梭织面料,使用双层平纹组织,上层面料纬向采用收缩小无弹性的纬纱,下层面料纬向采用短纤包芯莱卡纱或长丝包缠莱卡纱,上下层经纱的原料和纱支相同,采用无弹性的纱线;
面料织物的纱支范围为8.3tex~14.6tex;
所述的弹力管状面料的制备方法为:采用在一定间隔宽度上加接结点,接结点在经向成竖条状排列,竖条状接结点在一根经纱上,使上下两层形成沿经向的管状竖条,再利用下层面料弹力纬纱的高收缩性,使面料上层自然凸起,形成立体的管状面料;
上下两层经纬向密度比均为1:1;
两根带有接结点的经纱间隔距离0.4cm~1cm,每织入四根纬纱,加一个接结点;
纬向整理缩率设计30%~40%,纬向织造缩率3.5%~6.5%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的弹力管状面料,其特征在于:经密866根/10cm~512根/10cm,纬密710根/英寸~470根/英寸;穿筘入数2入或4入。
3.根据权利要求1所述的弹力管状面料,其特征在于:经向整理缩率设计5%~8%,经向织造缩率7%~10%。
4.根据权利要求1所述的弹力管状面料,其特征在于:还包括整理加工,所述整理加工具体流程为:干定型→卷染退浆→烘干→干定型→溢流水洗→脱水→开幅→超柔软。
5.根据权利要求4所述的弹力管状面料,其特征在于:干定型温度185℃~195℃。
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CN106884246A (zh) * 2017-03-29 2017-06-23 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种大循环纬弹经向乱管布的生产方法
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