CN114796013A

CN114796013A - Oil control composition and application thereof in cosmetics

Info

Publication number: CN114796013A
Application number: CN202210373916.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 叶彤彤; 王玉玲; 李伟; 徐松堂; 郭学平
Original assignee: Bloomage Biotech Co Ltd
Current assignee: Bloomage Biotech Co Ltd
Priority date: 2022-04-11
Filing date: 2022-04-11
Publication date: 2022-07-29
Anticipated expiration: 2042-04-11
Also published as: CN114796013B

Abstract

The invention discloses an oil control composition and application thereof in cosmetics, wherein the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 75-98% of acid compound and 2-25% of acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof. According to the invention, the acid compound and the acetylated hyaluronic acid or the salt thereof are compounded, and the grease regulation and control are carried out on the basis of barrier repair, so that the problem of grease secretion is fundamentally solved, and the safety is high. The oil-control composition has the advantages that the multiple components have synergistic effects of oil control, moisture preservation, pore shrinking and skin color brightening, the outstanding synergistic effect can reduce the use concentration of the oil-control composition, and better performance can be obtained at lower concentration. In addition, the method has the advantages of achieving the same function and low cost, and provides a new idea for the fields of subsequent basic research, skin care product application and the like.

Description

Oil control composition and application thereof in cosmetics

Technical Field

The invention relates to an oil control composition, in particular to an oil control composition which has the effects of moisturizing, pore reducing, stress resistance improving of skin and the like while controlling oil, and an application of the oil control composition in cosmetics, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.

Background

Oily skin is caused by the fact that sebaceous glands of a human body secrete exuberantly, oil and water are generally not distributed evenly, the moisture content of the skin is less than 20%, the pH value is less than 4.5, the skin looks glossy and shiny, pores are large, the skin color is dark and has no transparent feeling, hair follicle pipelines can become narrow and unsmooth, and comedo, acne and the like can appear. Such skin is better resistant to sun and environmental irritations, with late and coarse wrinkles. The head, face and back are the parts with denser sebaceous glands and the parts with most obvious oil production. Oily skin is easily affected by microorganisms such as propionibacterium acnes, staphylococcus and pityrosporum orbicularis, and then acne, folliculitis, seborrheic dermatitis and other skin diseases which affect the beauty. The secretion of skin oil is influenced by various factors such as androgen, work and rest habits, endocrine, diet and the like.

At present, common oil control products mainly comprise powder for absorbing oil, such as silicon dioxide, talcum powder, astringent and the like, and in recent years, products for regulating oil secretion by natural plants are diversified. The skin can show a matte effect through physical adsorption and filling of silicon dioxide, talcum powder and the like, the effect is strong in instantaneity, but the skin pores can be blocked in the past, so that more skin problems are caused; astringent such as astringent oil control moisturizing water usually contains alcohol components, the skin feels cool along with the volatilization of alcohol, the alcohol can coagulate part of keratin on the surface of the skin, the coagulated keratin is sealed and dry, so that the oil control effect is achieved, but the alcohol can also cause adverse reactions such as skin dryness, barrier damage, dermatitis, eczema and the like. The natural plant extract is safer to regulate the secretion of the grease, but has the problems of low extraction efficiency, complex process, introduction of organic solvent and the like.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects of the existing oil control product, the invention provides the oil control composition, which has the synergistic oil control effect through the reasonable matching of the acid compound and the acetylated hyaluronic acid, has the effects of moisturizing, pore reducing, skin stress resistance improving and the like, has good oil control and conditioning effects on skin, and has excellent comprehensive performance.

The specific technical scheme of the invention is as follows:

an oil control composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 75-98% of acid compound and 2-25% of acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.

Further, the acid compound is two or more of salicylic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, tartaric acid and mandelic acid.

Preferably, the acid-based formulation is a mixture of lactobionic acid, gluconolactone and salicylic acid. The acid compound can remove old waste cutin by dissolving pores and surface grease, dredge pores, and is more beneficial to reducing greasy feeling of skin. The salicylic acid is a fat-soluble organic acid, can soften the stratum corneum, can loosen the keratotic plug to dredge pores, has certain antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, can effectively decompose redundant oil of the skin to achieve the effect of controlling oil, and can improve pigmentation; when the lactobionic acid acts on the epidermis, the polymerization force among the corneocytes can be reduced, the falling of aged corneocytes is accelerated, the metabolism speed of the corneocytes is increased, the skin is promoted to be updated, the arrangement of the corneocytes is more orderly, and meanwhile, the keratotic plugs around the pores can easily fall off, so that the follicular duct is unblocked, the blockage of the pores is effectively prevented, and the function of repairing the skin barrier is achieved; gluconolactone can improve mild to moderate acne in patients by reducing the number of lesions, while the 5 hydroxyl and carboxylic acid structures of gluconolactone facilitate the absorption and retention of moisture, thereby enhancing water retention and skin hydration, providing a deep moisturizing effect, making the skin feel softer and smoother, improving the overall look and feel of the skin.

Preferably, when the mass ratio of lactobionic acid, gluconolactone and salicylic acid is 1: 0.5-2: when the content is 0.5-2, the oil control composition has more excellent performances.

More preferably, the mass ratio of lactobionic acid, gluconolactone and salicylic acid is 1:1: 2.

Further, the molecular weight of the acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof is 1-8 kilodalton, preferably 2-3 kilodalton. The acetylated hyaluronic acid or the salt thereof has a tough physical barrier effect, can be excessively cleaned in order to remove greasy feeling of facial skin, can wash and damage the horny layer, but sebum secretion is not affected, and the phenomenon that water is quickly lost and external oil is dried inside is caused. The acetylated hyaluronic acid or the salt thereof is obtained by acetylating natural moisturizing factor sodium Hyaluronate (HA), and the introduction of acetyl brings lipophilicity to the HA, enhances the affinity and adsorbability of the HA to the skin, and improves the moisturizing performance of the HA. The acetylated hyaluronic acid or the salt thereof has the effects of efficiently moisturizing, repairing skin barriers, increasing skin elasticity and the like, and the skin feel is fresh and cool and is not sticky.

Preferably, the oil control composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 85-98% of acid compound and 2-15% of acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.

Furthermore, the oil control composition is simple and convenient to prepare and low in price, and all the components are fully and uniformly mixed to obtain the oil control composition.

Furthermore, the invention also provides the application of the oil control composition in preparing cosmetics, and the cosmetics are preferably cosmetics with oil control efficacy. The type of the cosmetic can be various types such as lotion, essence, emulsion, cream and the like, and the adding amount of the oil control composition can be selected and adjusted according to the type of the cosmetic, the oil control requirement and the like.

Furthermore, the invention also provides a cosmetic, and the components of the cosmetic comprise the oil control composition. The type of the cosmetic can be various types such as astringent, essence, emulsion, cream and the like, and the preparation method can be according to the conventional preparation method of the cosmetic.

Further, the amount of the oil control composition added to the cosmetic may be selectively adjusted according to the type of the cosmetic, the oil control requirement, etc., and for example, may be added to the cosmetic in an amount of 1 to 15wt%, preferably 2 to 10wt%, more preferably 2 to 8 wt%.

The invention has the following advantages:

1. according to the invention, the acid compound and the acetylated hyaluronic acid are compounded, and grease regulation and control are carried out on the basis of barrier repair, so that the problem of grease secretion is solved fundamentally, and the safety is high.

2. The oil-control composition has the advantages that the multiple components have synergistic effects of oil control, moisture preservation, pore shrinking and skin color brightening, the outstanding synergistic effect can reduce the use concentration of the oil-control composition, and better performance can be obtained at lower concentration. In addition, the method has the advantages of achieving the same function and low cost, and provides a new idea for the fields of subsequent basic research, skin care product application and the like.

3. The product of the invention has simple preparation process and convenient operation, and is suitable for large-scale production.

Detailed Description

Embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the following examples, which are intended to be illustrative of the present invention only and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention as those skilled in the art will appreciate.

In the following examples, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid and acetylated hyaluronic acid were used as commercially available products.

Example 1 screening of oil control compositions

1. Preparing an oil control composition: lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid and acetylated sodium hyaluronate are weighed according to the formula in the following table 1, and the raw materials are stirred and mixed uniformly to obtain the oil-controlling composition.

2. Screening: selecting SZ95 human sebaceous gland cells cultured in vitro, culturing the cells in a Sebomed basal medium, and adding 10wt% fetal calf serum, 5 mug/L epidermal growth factor, 100U/ml penicillin and 100 mug/ml streptomycin. Standing at 37 deg.C for 5% CO ₂ In the incubator, the culture solution was changed 1 time every 2 days. Cells were seeded in 96-well plates and the next day the same mass of sample 1-9 and 1-7 of comparison samples, incubating for 48h, discarding the supernatant, washing with PBS for two times, repeatedly sucking and beating, dividing into two parts, adding a part of Nile red fuel (1 mg/ml dissolved in acetone and stored at-20 ℃) diluted by PBS to the final concentration of 10 mug/ml, and adding a part of Fluorescein Diacetate (FDA) (5 mg/ml dissolved in DMSO and stored at-20 ℃) diluted by PBS to the final concentration of 15 mug/ml. Detecting the fluorescence intensity of different samples, wherein Nile Red uses 485nm as an excitation wavelength, detects an emission wavelength at 565nm, FDA uses 494nm as an excitation wavelength, detects an emission wavelength at 523nm, and the fluorescence intensity is calculated according to the following formula: percent (%) intracellular neutral lipids (= nile red fluorescence intensity/FDA fluorescence intensity × 100%. The experimental data are shown in table 2 below:

according to a multiple comparison method of statistical analysis of biological experimental data, a letter marking method is adopted for difference marking explanation. As can be seen from the data in the above table, the oil control effect is different due to different proportions of triacids in the oil control composition. When the three components are combined, the neutral lipid inhibition content is obviously better than that of the two components, which shows that the three components in the triacid compound have the function of synergistically inhibiting the secretion of the neutral lipid of cells when being mixed. When the three acid compounds are in different proportions, the oil control effects of the three acid compounds are different, and the oil control effects are also different due to different proportions of the three acid compounds in the same proportion. Meanwhile, according to the comparison between the sample 1 and the comparative sample 6, the compounding of the acetylated sodium hyaluronate and the three acids has a certain synergistic effect, and it can be known from the data of the sample 1, the sample 5, the sample 7 and the sample 8 that the synergistic oil control effect is not increased significantly with the increase of the acetylated sodium hyaluronate, therefore, the synergistic oil control effect is better when the acetylated sodium hyaluronate is 0.05 part. Comparing the above data, sample 6 gave the best oil control, followed by samples 1, 5, and 7, but with a higher total amount of acids in sample 6.

Example 2

The essence was prepared according to the formula of table 3 below:

weighing the materials according to the mass percentage, then mixing the phase A raw materials, adding the phase B raw materials under stirring after uniformly mixing, adding the phase C raw materials under stirring, adding the phase D raw materials under stirring, and obtaining the finished product of the essence after uniformly stirring. Wherein the essence using the oil-controlling composition of sample 1 was defined as essence a, the essence using the oil-controlling composition of sample 6 was defined as essence B, and the essence using the oil-controlling composition of comparative sample 6 was defined as essence C.

EXAMPLE 3 Spot test of various products

Sample 1: essence a (oil control composition sample 1);

sample 2: serum B (oil control composition sample 6);

sample 3: serum C (oil control composition control 6).

Subject: the total number of the pills is 24, wherein 12 of the pills are male, 12 of the pills are female, and the age is 20-40 years old. Subject inclusion criteria were met and randomized into 4 groups of 6 persons (3 males and 3 females) per group.

The specific implementation steps are as follows: a0.03 ml sample is taken by an injector and placed in a medicine chamber of a spot adhesive tape, the spot adhesive tape with the sample is immediately and longitudinally adhered to the normal skin of the left forearm from the lower part, and simultaneously the medicine chambers are lightly pressed one by one to expel air and evenly distribute the test substances. The test site is marked for viewing. The blank control group was subject without product.

Analysis of results, the spot test tape was removed after 24 hours, skin reactions were observed after half an hour, 24 hours and 48 hours, respectively, and the results of skin reactions were recorded according to the CTFA guidelines for analysis.

The criteria for the skin irritation test are shown in table 4:

the results are shown in Table 5:

from the data in table 5, it can be seen that: the essence A and the essence C containing the oil control composition are mild, and the essence B containing the oil control composition has certain irritation, so that when the content of the three acids is high, although the oil control effect is good, the essence A and the essence C have certain irritation to the skin, and therefore, the essence A and the essence C are selected for subsequent experiments.

Example 4 oil control Effect of different products

By adopting a self-control method, 10 healthy subjects accompanied with facial oil troubles are recruited and randomly divided into 2 groups, wherein the left face of one group uses essence A containing the oil control composition, the left face of one group uses essence C containing the oil control composition, and the right face of the other group is coated with essence matrix (without the oil control composition). Then, the oil content of both cheek surfaces of the subject was measured (using an instrument of a multi-probe skin test system MPA580 (Courage + Khazaka, germany; oil-formulated test kit), and the oil control efficacy of the product was evaluated, the formula was that the oil change rate (%) = (left-face oil content-right-face oil content)/right-face oil content × 100%, with lower values indicating more oil reduction.

The specific implementation mode is as follows: the test subject cleans the face with mild face cleanser, balances the face in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30min, uses the equal amount of essence and essence matrix on the left half face and the right half face respectively, uses the essence once in the morning and at night, and uses the essence continuously for 28 days. Collecting left and right half cheek oil data 1h, 8h, 3d, 7d, 14d and 28d after first morning (first use); the skin oil data were measured at 3d, 7d, 14d, and 28d after use and at 14d (test 42 d) after the use. The results are shown in Table 6 below.

From the above table, it can be seen that the oil control effect of the essence A is improved in both the short-term oil control effect of 8h and the long-term oil control effect of 28d, and is superior to that of the essence C in the same period. Indicating that the compositions of the present invention act synergistically with each other to control oil. By comparing the change rate of the oil in the subjects after the 14d (test 42 d) is stopped, the essence A containing the oil control composition has long-acting oil control effect.

EXAMPLE 5 moisturizing Effect of different products

By adopting a self-control method, 50 healthy subjects are recruited and divided into two groups, wherein the left face of one group uses essence A containing the oil control composition, the left face of the other group uses essence C containing the oil control composition, and the right face of the other group is coated with a moisturizing essence matrix (without the oil control composition). The moisturizing effect of the product was evaluated by measuring the transdermal moisture loss data of the left and right half faces using a skin moisture loss meter Tewameter TM300 (Courage + Khazaka, germany).

The specific implementation mode is as follows: the test subject cleans the face with mild face cleanser, balances the face in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30min, uses the equal amount of essence and essence matrix on the left half face and the right half face respectively, uses the essence once in the morning and at night, and uses the essence continuously for 28 days. Collecting percutaneous water loss data 1h, 8h, 3d, 7d, 14d and 28d after the first morning (first use); the transdermal water loss data were measured 3d, 7d, 14d, 28d after use, and 14d after disuse (trial 42 d). The lower the moisture content change rate (%) = (left face transdermal moisture loss value-right face transdermal moisture loss value)/right face transdermal moisture loss value × 100%, the stronger the moisturizing and hydrating ability of the skin is, and the stronger the skin barrier repairing efficacy is. The results are shown in Table 7 below.

From the above table, it can be seen that the instantaneous skin moisture change of the essence a after 8h, the short-term skin moisture change after 7d and the long-term skin moisture change after 28d are all significantly better than those of the essence C. This shows that for the moisturizing effect, the addition of the acetylated sodium hyaluronate obviously improves the moisturizing effect of the product, and the use of the four compositions has a synergistic effect. From the change of skin moisture after 14d of disuse (test 42 d), essence a is still significantly better than essence C, which shows that long-term use of the oil-control composition of the present invention can improve skin function and improve moisture retention and water retention capacity.

EXAMPLE 6 pore reducing Effect of different products

By adopting a self-control method, 20 healthy subjects are recruited and divided into two groups, wherein the left face of one group uses essence A containing the oil control composition, the left face of the other group uses essence C containing the oil control composition, and the right face of the other group is coated with a moisturizing essence matrix (without the oil control composition). The product was evaluated for pore reduction using a facial image analyzer VISIA-CR (Canfield, usa) to measure the number of pores on both sides of the left and right half-face nosewings.

The specific implementation mode is as follows: a subject cleans the face with the mild face cleanser, balances the face for 30min in a constant-temperature and constant-humidity environment, uses the equal amount of essence and essence matrix respectively on the left half face and the right half face, uses the mild face cleanser once in the morning and at night, and uses the mild face cleanser for 28 days continuously. Pore size data were collected 7d, 14d, 28d, 14d (trial 42 d) after first morning (first) use and 14d (trial 42 d) when discontinued. The lower the pore number change rate (%) = (left-right pore number)/right-side pore number × 100%, the more significant the reduction in skin pores is indicated. The results are shown in Table 8 below.

From the above table, it can be seen that the number of skin pores of the essence a shows a gradual decrease trend in the time periods of 7d, 14d and 28d, while the number of skin pores of the essence C used in the same time period is not significantly decreased. It is demonstrated that long term use of the product containing the oil control composition of the present invention also helps to reduce pores.

Example 7 gloss improvement Effect of different products

By adopting a self-control method, 20 healthy subjects are recruited and divided into two groups, wherein the left face of one group uses essence A containing the oil control composition, the left face of the other group uses essence C containing the oil control composition, and the right face of the other group is coated with a moisturizing essence matrix (without the oil control composition). The product was evaluated for efficacy in lightening, evening skin color using a facial image analyzer VISIA-CR (Canfield, usa) to measure the gloss of the cheeks of the left and right half faces.

The specific implementation mode is as follows: the test subject cleans the face with mild face cleanser, balances the face in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30min, uses the equal amount of essence and essence matrix on the left half face and the right half face respectively, uses the essence once in the morning and at night, and uses the essence continuously for 28 days. Gloss data were collected at 7d, 14d, 28d after first morning (first) use, 14d when use was discontinued (trial 42 d). The higher the value of the gloss change rate (%) = (left face gloss-right face gloss)/right face gloss × 100%, the more glossy the skin is indicated. The results are shown in Table 9 below.

The data in the table show that the gloss improvement effect of the essence A in four weeks is obviously superior to that of the essence C, and meanwhile, when the product is not used for 14 days (test 42 d), the skin gloss after the essence A is used is obviously superior to that of the essence C, which shows that the oil control composition has a synergistic effect of brightening the skin.

EXAMPLE 8 preparation of oil control compositions and skin Care products

1. Toning lotion

Weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 2.36% of oil control composition, 2% of glycerol, 1% of betaine, 1% of allantoin, 1% of trehalose, 0.6% of phenoxyethanol and water to make up to 100%.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: mixing glycerol, betaine, allantoin and trehalose, and stirring to obtain mixture A; and adding the oil-controlling composition and phenoxyethanol into the mixture A, and uniformly mixing and stirring to obtain the oil-controlling composition.

Essence liquid

Weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 2.5% of oil control composition, 40.8% of poloxamer, 8% of glycerol, 5% of sorbitol, 2% of betaine, 0.2% of allantoin, 0.5% of acetyl chitosamine, 1% of beta-glucan, 2% of pentanediol, 0.1% of caprylyl hydroximic acid and 0.1% of triethanolamine, and water is supplemented to 100%.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: taking a proper amount of glycerol and sorbitol to moisten poloxamer and an oil control composition; adding purified water into the mixture, and feeding the mixture into a high-pressure homogenizer for homogenizing for 2 times, wherein the rotating speed is 12000rpm/min, and each time lasts for 3 minutes; then adding the rest components, adjusting the pH value to about 6.5, and stirring until the components are uniformly mixed to obtain the essence.

Face cream

Weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 3% of oil control composition, 5% of glyceryl stearate, 10% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 5% of shea butter, 3% of glycerol, 2% of sorbitol, 2% of betaine, 0.05% of allantoin, 0.5% of acetyl chitosamine, 0.8% of beta-glucan, 0.2% of sodium polyglutamate, 0.6% of phenoxyethanol and water to 100%.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: weighing glyceryl stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and shea butter according to a proportion, mixing, and heating to 70-75 deg.C to obtain mixture A; taking appropriate amount of glycerol and sorbitol, fully dispersing, dissolving the oil-controlling composition, continuously adding appropriate amount of water, adding other components while stirring, mixing uniformly, and heating to 70-75 deg.C to obtain mixture B; a, B, mixing, homogenizing for 5-8 min, stirring to 40-45 deg.C, adding antiseptic and acid-base regulator, and mixing to obtain facial cream.

Shampoo

Weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: oil control composition 5%, ammonium lauryl sulfate 3%, sodium lauryl polyether sulfate 12%, laureth-251%, polyquaternium-100.2%, polyquaternium-220.5%, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.5%, potassium lauryl phosphate 5%, cocamidopropyl betaine 5%, cocomonoethanolamide 4%, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 3%, ethylene glycol distearate 1%, betaine 1%, styrene acrylate copolymer 0.05%, coco glucoside 0.05%, disodium EDTA 0.1%, methylisothiazolinone 0.03%, methylisothiazolinone 0.01%, magnesium chloride 0.01%, sodium chloride 1.5%, zinc sulfate 0.5%, essence 0.3%, and water to 100%.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: slowly adding polyquaternium-10 and guar gum hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride into appropriate amount of water, dispersing and stirring to be uniform to obtain phase A; adding ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, laureth-25, polyquaternary ammonium salt-22 and disodium EDTA into appropriate amount of water, mixing, heating to 50-55 deg.C, stirring for dissolving, adding phase A, stirring, heating to 75-80 deg.C, keeping the temperature, and stirring for Ih; cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding cocamidopropyl betaine and coconut monoethanolamide, and stirring; and continuously cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the oil control composition, betaine, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, ethylene glycol distearate, methyl chloro isothiazolinone, methyl isothiazolinone, essence, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride and zinc sulfate, and stirring uniformly to obtain the shampoo.

Claims

1. The oil control composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 75-98% of acid compound and 2-25% of acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.

2. The oil control composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 85-98% of acid compound and 2-15% of acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.

3. An oil control composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by: the acid compound is two or more of salicylic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, tartaric acid and mandelic acid.

4. The oil control composition of claim 3, wherein: the acid compound is lactobionic acid, gluconolactone and salicylic acid; preferably, the mass ratio of lactobionic acid, gluconolactone and salicylic acid is 1: 0.5-2: 0.5-2, more preferably 1:1: 2.

5. An oil control composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by: the molecular weight of the acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof is 1-8 ten thousand daltons, preferably 2-3 ten thousand daltons.

6. Use of an oil control composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the preparation of a cosmetic product.

7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that: the cosmetic is a cosmetic with oil control effect.

8. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that: the types of the cosmetics include astringent, essence, lotion, and cream.

9. A cosmetic, characterized by: comprising the oil control composition of any one of claims 1-5.

10. The cosmetic as set forth in claim 9, wherein: the oil control composition is added into the cosmetic in an amount of 1-15wt%, preferably 2-10wt%, more preferably 2-8 wt%.