CN114642610A

CN114642610A - Moisturizing composition and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114642610A
Application number: CN202210145374.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 裴运林; 聂艳峰; 林涛; 蒲艳; 王娟
Original assignee: Guangdong Marubi Biological Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangdong Marubi Biological Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2022-02-17
Filing date: 2022-02-17
Publication date: 2022-06-21

Abstract

The invention discloses a moisturizing composition and a preparation method thereof, the composition is a nano liposome and comprises an oil phase and a water phase, wherein the oil phase comprises ceramide, vegetable oil, an emulsifier and cholesterol; the water phase comprises water, polyhydric alcohol, plant soothing extract, and emulsifier. The composition is prepared into nano liposome serving as a carrier, can improve the addition of ceramide, and can improve the moisturizing and barrier repair effects of the composition by adding the plant soothing extract. The composition adopts high pressure homogenization method to prepare liposome, has simple and convenient steps and stable liposome system, and is suitable for large-scale production.

Description

Moisturizing composition and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of ceramide wrapping, and particularly relates to a moisturizing composition and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

Ceramide, as a main component of human epidermal stratum corneum lipid, forms a stratum corneum protective barrier between the human body and the external environment together with other lipids. The barrier function of this layer mainly includes moisture retention, protection from external stimuli, and the like. Due to age and other causes, ceramide is reduced in the skin and epidermal barrier function is impaired. By using the skin care cosmetic containing the ceramide active substances, ceramide can be supplemented for the skin cuticle, and multiple skin care effects of skin barrier repair, water retention, wrinkle resistance, aging resistance and the like are achieved. However, ceramide has poor water solubility, is easy to crystallize and separate out, and is not favorable for the stability of skin care products. Therefore, the addition amount of the cosmetic is usually very low (0.01-0.05%) in the prior art, so that the ideal use effect cannot be achieved.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, one of the purposes of the invention is to provide a moisturizing composition, which is prepared by preparing a composition containing a ceramide component into a nano liposome and solves the problems of poor water solubility and unstable dispersion of ceramide; the second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the moisturizing composition, which has simple steps and is suitable for large-scale preparation; the invention also aims to provide the application of the moisturizing composition, which can be used as a raw material to be added into cosmetics and has wide application.

One of the purposes of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:

a moisturizing composition is a nano liposome, and specifically comprises an oil phase and a water phase, wherein the oil phase comprises ceramide, vegetable oil, an emulsifier and cholesterol; the water phase comprises water, polyhydric alcohol, plant soothing extract, and emulsifier.

Further, the moisturizing composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

oil phase: 1-5% of ceramide, 6-12% of vegetable oil, 5-10% of emulsifier and 2-5% of cholesterol;

water phase: 3-4% of polyhydric alcohol, 6-12% of plant soothing extract, 1-3% of emulsifier and the balance of water.

Still further, the ceramide is one or a composition of more than two of ceramide 1, ceramide 3 and ceramide 6. Preferably, the mass ratio of ceramide 1, ceramide 3 and ceramide 6 is 1: (1-3): (2-3) compounding. Ceramide 1 mainly has the function of repairing sebaceous membranes, can improve the barrier function of the surface layer of skin, reduces the loss of water and finally achieves the effect of moisturizing. Ceramide 3 can maintain the water retention of skin, repair dry and damaged skin, and help to renew the natural protective layer of skin. Ceramide 6 helps the stratum corneum of the skin to metabolize rapidly, making the skin smoother.

Further, the emulsifier in the oil phase is one or more of sodium lauroyl lactylate, cetostearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. Sodium lauroyl lactylate is preferred.

Still further, the polyhydric alcohol is dipropylene glycol and/or 1, 2-hexanediol. Preferably dipropylene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol according to the mass ratio of (1-2): 1, compounding.

Further, the vegetable oil is one or a combination of more than two of linseed oil, castor oil, camellia seed oil and macadamia oil. The preferred Hedgehog hydnum seed oil can soften and moisten skin and is easy to be compatible with an emulsifier; also has good antioxidant effect, and can be used for preparing antiaging cosmetic.

Still further, the emulsifier of the water phase is hydrogenated lecithin and/or whey protein.

Further, the plant soothing extract is one or more of green tea extract, centella asiatica extract, rosemary extract, licorice extract, giant knotweed rhizome extract, scutellaria baicalensis extract and chamomile extract.

The specific effects of the components are as follows:

the green tea extract is an active ingredient extracted from green tea leaves, and mainly comprises tea polyphenol (catechin), caffeine, aromatic oil, water, minerals, pigments, carbohydrates, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, etc. Has effects in caring skin, delaying skin aging, scavenging free radicals, and resisting oxidation, and has astringent and antibacterial effects.

Asiaticoside which is a main component in the centella asiatica extract has a promoting effect on the activity of scar fibroblast, so that the centella asiatica extract has a scar removing effect, has a good polymerization effect with phospholipid substances, has a relatively obvious effect on removing whelk, has an inhibiting effect on glucuronidase, has an antibacterial effect and has a good effect on inhibiting body odor; has good promoting effect on hair growth, which is related to promoting cell activity, and can be used as hair growth product.

The rosemary extract contains rosemary essential oil with fresh fragrance, has the activities of sterilization, disinsection, inflammation diminishing and the like, has strong killing power on red spiders, mosquitoes and ova thereof, and can be used for mosquito repellents and essence blending. The rosemary extract has excellent antioxidant performance, and shows proliferation effect on fibroblasts and the like, inhibition on elastase and collagenase, antioxidant property and the like in a series of cell culture tests, so that the rosemary extract has the effects of activating skin and resisting aging. Also has anti-inflammatory and astringent effects.

Research on proliferation effect of licorice extract on muscle cells, promotion effect on proliferation of vascular endothelial cells, promotion of collagen-4 type generation, inhibition of NO generation and the like shows that licorice extract has promotion effect on improving skin activity and the like, and can be used in anti-aging cosmetics; the licorice extract has the effects of inhibiting melanin and whitening skin; has obvious inhibiting effect on some bacteria, and can be used as anti-inflammatory agent.

The giant knotweed extract has good inhibition effect on the activity of B-16 melanocyte and has promotion effect on macrophage activity, so that the content of melanin is reduced through the two aspects, and the giant knotweed extract can be used for whitening cosmetics; has effect in inhibiting elastase, and has antioxidant effect, and is suitable for skin care products with effects of removing wrinkle and activating skin.

The Scutellariae radix extract has effects of inhibiting elastase, interfering secretion, and scavenging free radicals, thereby increasing skin metabolism, improving skin elasticity and wrinkle resistance, and resisting aging; promoting cerebral amide, improving sebum and softening skin; has effects in inhibiting dermatitis, enhancing skin resistance, and resisting inflammation; can neutralize released histamine, and has effect in preventing allergy.

The flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract is rich in flos Matricariae Chamomillae blue, and has effects of preventing skin inflammation, cleaning and stabilizing skin.

The second purpose of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:

the preparation method of the moisturizing composition comprises the following steps: respectively heating the oil phase and the water phase to 85-90 ℃, pouring the oil phase into the water phase while stirring, homogenizing, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the moisturizing composition.

The third purpose of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:

the application of the moisturizing composition is to apply the moisturizing composition to the field of cosmetics.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) the moisturizing composition contains a ceramide component, and in order to solve the problems of poor water solubility and unstable dispersion of ceramide, the composition is prepared into a nano liposome, and a polyalcohol and a plant soothing extract are added into a water phase, wherein the polyalcohol not only has a certain moisturizing function, but also has the functions of regulating viscosity, reducing oil-water interfacial tension, widening an interface and easily forming fine particles, so that the composition is favorable for the dispersion of the nano liposome in an external water phase; the plant soothing extract can improve the moisturizing and barrier repairing effects of the composition. Because the liposome is composed of amphiphilic molecules such as phospholipid and the like, the bilayer closed vesicle formed spontaneously in aqueous solution is similar to a skin cutin bilayer and has good skin-friendly property. The liposome is used as a carrier, and the addition amount of ceramide can be increased, so that the moisturizing and barrier repairing effects of the composition are effectively improved.

(2) The moisturizing composition disclosed by the invention is prepared into the liposome by adopting a high-pressure homogenization method, the ceramide is used as one of liposome membrane materials due to the amphiphilic structure of the ceramide, and is not required to be encapsulated in the internal water phase of the liposome, and in order to improve the stability of the ceramide, the vegetable oil and the emulsifier are added for matching.

(3) The moisturizing composition can be used as one of raw materials to be added into cosmetics, so that the cosmetics have the effects of moisturizing and repairing barriers.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further described below with reference to specific embodiments, and it should be noted that, without conflict, various embodiments or technical features described below may be arbitrarily combined to form a new embodiment.

Example 1

A moisturizing composition is a nano liposome and comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

oil phase: 1% ceramide, 5% linseed oil, 5% sodium lauroyl lactylate and 2% cholesterol; wherein, the ceramide is prepared by the following components in a mass ratio of 1: 1: 2, ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.

Water phase: 3% of polyhydric alcohol, 1% of green tea extract, 1% of centella asiatica extract, 1% of rosemary extract, 1% of liquorice extract, 1% of polygonum cuspidatum extract, 1% of scutellaria baicalensis extract, 1% of chamomile extract, 1% of whey protein and the balance of water. Wherein the mass ratio of the polyhydric alcohol is 1: 1 dipropylene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol.

The preparation method of the moisturizing composition comprises the following steps: respectively heating the oil phase and the water phase to 85-90 ℃, pouring the oil phase into the water phase while stirring at the speed of 10000r/min, homogenizing for 5min, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the moisturizing composition.

Example 2

oil phase: 5% ceramide, 12% Adiantum seed oil, 5% cetostearyl alcohol, 5% cetyl alcohol, and 5% cholesterol; wherein, the ceramide is prepared by the following components in a mass ratio of 1: 3: 3 ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.

Water phase: 4% dipropylene glycol, 2% green tea extract, 2% centella asiatica extract, 2% rosemary extract, 2% licorice extract, 1-2% polygonum cuspidatum extract, 1-2% scutellaria baicalensis extract, 1-2% chamomile extract, 1-3% hydrogenated lecithin, and the balance water. Wherein the polyalcohol is dipropylene glycol and/or 1, 2-hexanediol.

The composition of this example was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.

Example 3

oil phase: 4% ceramide, 10% camellia oil, 7% sodium lauroyl lactylate and 4% cholesterol; wherein, the ceramide is prepared by the following components in a mass ratio of 1: 2: 2, ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.

Water phase: 3.5% of polyhydric alcohol, 1% of green tea extract, 2% of centella asiatica extract, 2% of rosemary extract, 1% of licorice extract, 2% of polygonum cuspidatum extract, 2% of scutellaria baicalensis extract, 2% of chamomile extract, 2% of whey protein and the balance of water. Wherein the mass ratio of the polyhydric alcohol is 2: 1 dipropylene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol.

Example 4

oil phase: 2% ceramide, 8% linseed oil, 6% cetearyl alcohol and 3% cholesterol; wherein the ceramide is prepared from the following raw materials in a mass ratio of 1: 1: 2, ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.

Water phase: 3.5% 1, 2-hexanediol, 1% green tea extract, 1% centella asiatica extract, 1% rosemary extract, 2% licorice extract, 1.5% giant knotweed extract, 2% scutellaria baicalensis extract, 1% chamomile extract, 1% hydrogenated lecithin, and the balance water.

Example 5

oil phase: 4% ceramide, 10% Paeonia suffruticosa seed oil, 7% sodium lauroyl lactylate and 5% cholesterol; wherein, the ceramide is prepared by the following components in a mass ratio of 1: 3: 2, ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.

Water phase: 4% of a polyol, 2% of a green tea extract, 1.5% of a centella asiatica extract, 1% of a rosemary extract, 2% of a licorice extract, 1.3% of a polygonum cuspidatum extract, 1.8% of a scutellaria baicalensis extract, 1.6% of a chamomile extract, 2% of hydrogenated lecithin, and the balance water. Wherein the mass ratio of the polyhydric alcohol is 1: 1 dipropylene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol. Preferably dipropylene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol are compounded.

Comparative example 1

Comparative example 1 differs from example 2 in that: comparative example 1 a plant soothing composition, a polyol and ceramide in amounts equivalent to those of example 2 were directly mixed with water to obtain a composition.

Comparative example 2

Comparative example 2 differs from example 2 in that: comparative example 2 no plant soothing composition was added.

Comparative example 3

Comparative example 3 differs from example 2 in that: comparative example 3 no polyol was added.

Performance testing

First, moisture retention test

The test method comprises the following steps: 5.0g of each of the compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 was weighed, placed in weighing bottles, and placed in an environment having a relative humidity of 43% and 81% at room temperature (24 to 30 ℃) for 24 hours, and the moisture retention rate was calculated according to formula (1).

In the formula, m₀G, the mass of a sample to be detected; m is_nMass of sample, g, after 24 hours of standing.

The moisturizing rate data for each group is shown in table 1.

Table 1 moisture retention data for each group

As can be seen from Table 1, examples 1 to 5 all have good moisturizing effects, and comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 do not add plant soothing extract and polyhydric alcohol, so that the moisturizing effect is reduced, which shows that the compounding of ceramide, plant soothing extract and polyhydric alcohol of the invention has good moisturizing effect. Comparative example 1 the conventional preparation method of mixing the components with water was used, so that the ceramide dispersibility was poor and the moisturizing effect was affected.

Second, test of stability against Heat and Cold

The compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were left at 45 ℃ and-4 ℃ for 3 months, respectively, and the surface phenomenon of the sample was observed, as shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2 Heat and Cold resistance results for each set of samples

As shown in Table 2, the compositions of examples 1 to 5 were in the form of nanoliposomes, and thus no delamination or oil-water separation occurred in the samples in the heat and cold resistance test, indicating good stability. Comparative example 1 because each component was directly mixed with water, ceramide was poorly dispersed in water, and the stability of the composition was lowered. Comparative example 2 also had good stability, indicating that the stability was not greatly affected by the addition of the plant soothing extract. In the comparative example 3, no polyol is added, which is not beneficial to the dispersion of the nano liposome in the external water phase, and shows that the polyol not only has a certain moisture-preserving function, but also has the functions of viscosity regulation, oil-water interfacial tension reduction, interface widening and easy formation of fine particles.

The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby, and any insubstantial changes and substitutions made by those skilled in the art based on the present invention are within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The moisturizing composition is characterized by being a nanoliposome and comprising an oil phase and a water phase, wherein the oil phase comprises ceramide, vegetable oil, an emulsifier and cholesterol; the water phase comprises water, polyhydric alcohol, plant soothing extract, and emulsifier.

2. The moisturizing composition of claim 1, wherein the moisturizing composition comprises the following raw materials by weight percent:

3. The moisturizing composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide is one or more of ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.

4. The moisturizing composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier in the oil phase is one or more of sodium lauroyl lactylate, cetostearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol.

5. The moisturizing composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol is dipropylene glycol and/or 1, 2-hexanediol.

6. The moisturizing composition of claim 1, wherein the vegetable oil is one or more of linseed oil, castor oil, camellia seed oil, and monkey tree seed oil.

7. The moisturizing composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier of the aqueous phase is hydrogenated lecithin and/or whey protein.

8. The moisturizing composition of claim 1, wherein the plant soothing extract is one or more of green tea extract, centella asiatica extract, rosemary extract, licorice extract, polygonum cuspidatum extract, scutellaria baicalensis extract, and chamomile extract.

9. The method for producing the moisturizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the steps of: respectively heating the oil phase and the water phase to 85-90 ℃, pouring the oil phase into the water phase while stirring, homogenizing, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the moisturizing composition.

10. The moisturizing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the moisturizing composition is applied to the field of cosmetics.