CN114232196B

CN114232196B - Four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric

Info

Publication number: CN114232196B
Application number: CN202111680211.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 苏志福; 邓盛土; 罗小倩; 许经表
Original assignee: Fujian Zhangping Xielong Chemical Fiber Co ltd
Current assignee: Fujian Zhangping Xielong Chemical Fiber Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-12-31
Filing date: 2021-12-31
Publication date: 2023-07-04
Anticipated expiration: 2041-12-31
Also published as: CN114232196A

Abstract

A four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric is produced by weaving on a three Gu Kashuang-needle-bed warp knitting machine with 8 traversing working lines, wherein GB1 fully penetrates first yarns, L2 and L3 fully penetrates second and third yarns, and front needle mattress yarns are looped to form the reverse side of the knitted fabric; l6, L7 and GB8 are fully threaded through the sixth to eighth yarns, offset and looping are carried out on a back needle bed to form a jacquard surface layer, L4 and L5 are fully threaded through the fourth and fifth yarns, loop is carried out on front and back needle wheels to form a jacquard connecting layer, and the jacquard connecting layer is matched with L6, L7 and GB8 to form a Gu Kada-surface pure color zone, a Gu Kadi-point pure color zone, a jacquard insertion color extraction point mixed color zone, a Gu Kashan through hole zone and a Gu Kashuang through hole zone of the jacquard surface layer. The 8 transverse moving working lines adopt color yarns with different specifications, dyeing performances or colors, and after weaving and dyeing, each region of the transverse moving working lines can show 4 colors, and the transverse moving working lines have clear jacquard three-dimensional effect, so that the design sense of the vamp is effectively increased, and the transverse moving working lines meet the diversified aesthetic requirements of consumers.

Description

Four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of warp knitting vamp materials, in particular to a four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp knitting double-needle bed vamp knitted fabric.

Background

With the improvement of the living standard of people, consumers attach more and more importance to shoes, and warp-knitted spacer fabrics are used as warp-knitted materials with good ventilation, ventilation and pressure relief performance, and are widely applied to shoe manufacturing, especially in the field of casual shoes.

In recent years, young consumers have focused not only on the quality and comfort of shoes, but also on the aesthetics of shoes. The jacquard weave and the color of the traditional warp knitting three-dimensional interval shoe material are single and not very rich.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the problem that the jacquard weave structure and the color of the traditional warp-knitted three-dimensional spacing shoe material are single in the prior art, and provides the four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric which meets the aesthetic requirements of consumers, yarns with different materials and dyeing performances are adopted, and the three-jacquard vamp material woven by utilizing a special process is soft in texture, can be made into four colors at most, has excellent three-dimensional effect, increases the design sense of the vamp, and meets the aesthetic requirements of the consumers for increasing diversity.

In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric is woven on a three Gu Kashuang-needle-bed warp knitting machine with 8 traversing working lines, and the arrangement of the 8 traversing working lines is that after going from the machine to the machine respectively: 1) The ground guide bar GB1 only weaved on the front needle bed moves across the working lines, and the jacquard guide bar JB2 only weaved on the front needle bed moves across the working lines L2 and L3; 2) The jacquard guide bar JB3 transversely moves the working lines L4 and L5 which are sequentially looped and woven on the front needle bed and the back needle bed; 3) The jacquard comb JB4 woven into a loop on the back needle bed transversely moves the working lines L6 and L7, and the ground guide bar GB8 woven into a loop on the back needle bed transversely moves the working lines; the GB1 penetrates into the first system yarn, the JB2 traversing working lines L2 and L3 penetrate into the second system yarn and the third system yarn, the GB1 is looped by matching with the JB2 on the front needle mattress yarn to form the back surface of the vamp knitted fabric; the JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 penetrate into the yarns of the fourth and fifth systems, and are looped in turn on the front and back needle beds to form Gu Kadi point areas of the vamp knitted fabric, and the third dimension of the shoe material is increased through intermittent looping; the JB4 transversely moving working lines L6 and L7 penetrate into the sixth system yarn and the seventh system yarn, the GB8 penetrates into the eighth system yarn, and the GB8 is looped on the rear needle bed in cooperation with the JB4 to form the front surface of the vamp knitted fabric; the front needle bed guide bars GB1 and JB2 are matched with the rear needle bed guide bars GB8 and JB4, and Gu Kashan through hole areas, gu Kashuang through hole areas and Gu Kada pure color areas of the vamp knitted fabric are formed through different selections of looping time of the front needle bed and the rear needle bed.

The Gu Kadi point area comprises a Gu Kadi point pure color area and a Jacquard color extraction point mixed color area.

The Gu Kadi pure color zone can be selected from two colors to form a Gu Kadi point A color zone and a Gu Kadi point B color zone; the Gu Kadi pure color zone can be one color, so as to form a Gu Kadi single-color pure color zone; the jacquard color inserting and extracting point color mixing area forms a color mixing effect by alternately developing colors of A color and C color on the front surface; the colors A, B and C are any three different colors.

The front surface of the Gu Kashan through hole area is of a mesh structure, the back surface of the Gu Kashan through hole area is of a plane structure, the color of the plane structure on the back surface can be seen through the mesh structure on the front surface of the shoe material, and the area can not only increase the air permeability of the shoe material, but also enrich the pattern color of the shoe material; the forward and reverse sides of the Gu Kashuang through hole area are both mesh structures, and the ventilation effect is very excellent.

The mesh shapes of the Gu Kashan through hole area and the Gu Kashuang through hole area are diamond, honeycomb, square, round and other shapes.

The knitting method of the four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric comprises the following steps of:

1) GB1 and JB2 sideslip working lines L2, L3 fully wear first, second, third system yarn and make the first layer coil, only stitch the mattress yarn in front, form and weave the chain organization and weave the flat organization, use as the reverse side of the jacquard vamp fabric of three jacquard, its concrete yarn number of backing is: GB 1:0-1-1/1-0-0-0//, L2:0-1-1-1/2-1-1//, L3:0-1-1-1/2-1-1//;

2) The JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 fully penetrate the yarns of the fourth and fifth systems, the yarns are looped in turn on the front and back needle beds, and the yarn padding numbers are as follows: l4 is 0-1-1-0/2-1-0-1//, L5 is 0-1-2-1/2-1-1-2//; when L4 and L5 are looped in the front and back needle bed in turn, the back and the front of the three jacquard vamp fabric are connected together, and a thick hand feeling is formed; when the L4 and the L5 deviate from the back needle bed and are padded with yarns to form loops, the L4 and the L5 are matched with the JB4 traversing working lines L6, L7 and GB8, a Gu Kadi pure color zone and a Jack color-inserting and extracting color-mixing zone are formed on the vamp surface layer;

3) The JB4 transversely moving working lines L6, L7 and GB8 fully penetrate the yarns of the sixth, seventh and eighth systems, the L6 and L7 deviate at the back needle bed and are padded into a loop, the padding movement of the GB8 at the back needle bed is matched, a Gu Kada pure color area is formed on the front surface of the fabric, and the specific padding numbers are as follows: l6:0-0-1-2/0-0-1-0//, L7:0-0-1-2/0-0-1-0//, GB8:0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0//;

4) The JB2 traversing working lines L2, L3 and JB4 traversing working lines L6 and L7 select different looping time and cooperate with different offset motions to form Gu Kashan through hole areas and Gu Kashuang through hole areas on the front surface of the three jacquard vamp fabric.

According to the invention, the jacquard guide bar JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 adopt a creel passive yarn feeding mode so as to adapt to different requirements of the jacquard guide bar JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 on tension when knitting different areas.

The first system yarn is 100D terylene semi-gloss FDY, the second system yarn is 150D cation low-elasticity light net semi-gloss DTY, the third and fifth system yarns are 70D x 2 nylon low-elasticity middle net untwisted DTY, the fourth system yarn is 75D x 2 cation low-elasticity light net untwisted DTY, the sixth and seventh system yarns are 200D terylene low-elasticity environment-friendly recycled semi-gloss DTY, and the eighth system yarn is 150D terylene semi-gloss DTY.

In the invention, the first to eighth system yarns have different dyeing performances, so that the vamp material can show different colors after being dyed in different sequences, and can show 4 colors at most. The first to eighth system yarns can also directly select the color yarns with different colors, specifications and materials according to the design requirement of the patterns.

Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme of the invention has the beneficial effects that:

according to the jacquard guide bar JB3, a creel passive yarn feeding mode is adopted, so that different requirements on tension when different patterns are woven can be met; yarns with different materials, colors or dyeing performances are selected, and the three jacquard vamp material woven by using a special process is soft in texture, can be made into four colors at most, has excellent three-dimensional effect, increases vamp design feel, and meets the aesthetic requirements of more and more diversified consumers.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a jacquard vamp layout of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a structural design analysis diagram of the jacquard vamp of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the positions of 8 traversing lines of a GE296 type double needle bar warp knitting machine.

Detailed Description

In order to make the technical problems, technical schemes and beneficial effects to be solved more clear and obvious, the invention is further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments.

The four-color three-jacquard three-dimensional breathable double-needle bar warp knitting vamp fabric is woven by a GE296 type double-needle bar warp knitting machine. The weaving equipment is provided with 3 jacquard combs, 2 ground combs and 8 traversing working lines. The full-penetration knitting method is adopted, the machine number is E22 (namely 22 needles/inch), and the knitting density is 13wpc (namely 13 wales/cm).

Specifically, the ground comb structure yarn-laying numbers and the jacquard basic structures of the body are respectively as follows:

ground comb GB1:0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//

Jacquard comb L2:0-1-1-1/2-1-1-1//

Jacquard comb L3:0-1-1-1/2-1-1-1//

Jacquard comb L4:0-1-1-0/2-1-0-1//

Jacquard comb L5:0-1-2-1/2-1-1-2//

Jacquard comb L6:0-0-1-2/0-0-1-0//

Jacquard comb L7:0-0-1-2/0-0-1-0//

Ground comb GB8:0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0//

Specifically, the raw materials and threading are as follows:

in this embodiment, the upper layout diagram is shown in fig. 1, and the upper structural design analysis diagram is shown in fig. 2.

1-2, the upper different pattern effect areas comprise Gu Kada pure color areas 1, gu Kashan through hole areas 2, gu Kadi pure color A color areas 3, gu Kadi pure color B color areas 4, gu Kashuang through hole areas 5 and Jack color inserting and extracting point color mixing areas 6;

in this embodiment, the Gu Kadi pure color region is two colors, so as to form Gu Kadi pure color A region 3 and Gu Kadi pure color B region 4, or one color can be selected so as to form Gu Kadi pure color regions;

the jacquard color inserting and extracting point color mixing area 6 forms a color mixing effect by alternately developing colors of A color and C color on the front surface;

the front surface of the Gu Kashan through hole area 2 is of a mesh structure, the back surface of the Gu Kashan through hole area is of a plane structure, the color of the plane structure on the back surface can be seen through the mesh structure on the front surface of the shoe material, and the area can not only increase the air permeability of the shoe material, but also enrich the pattern color of the shoe material;

the forward and reverse sides of the Gu Kashuang through hole area 5 are both mesh structures, and the ventilation effect is very excellent.

The position arrangement of 8 traversing working lines of the GE296 type double needle bar warp knitting machine is shown in figure 3, and the positions from the machine to the machine are respectively as follows: a ground guide bar GB1 knitted only on the front needle bed moves across the working line; the jacquard guide bar JB2 woven only on the front needle bed transversely moves the working lines L2 and L3; the jacquard guide bar JB3 transversely moves the working lines L4 and L5 which are sequentially looped and woven on the front needle bed and the back needle bed; the jacquard comb JB4 knitted into a loop on the back needle bed moves across the working lines L6 and L7, and the ground guide bar GB8 knitted into a loop on the back needle bed moves across the working lines.

GB1 fully penetrates first system yarns, particularly 100D/36F terylene semi-gloss FDY, JB2 traversing working lines L2 and L3 fully penetrates second and third system yarns, particularly 150D/45 cationic low-elasticity light net semi-gloss DTY and 70D/24F nylon low-elasticity middle net torsion-free DTY, and the first layer of coils is formed; GB1 and JB2 sideslip working lines L2, L3 are looped only on the front needle mattress yarn to form a knitting chain structure and a warp flat structure which are used as the back surface of the three jacquard vamp fabric;

the JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 fully penetrate through the yarns of the fourth and fifth systems, specifically 75D/36F x 2 cation low-elasticity light net torsion-free DTY and 70D/24F x 2 chinlon low-elasticity middle net torsion-free DTY, and are formed into circles in turn on the front and back needle beds; when L4 and L5 are looped in turn on the front and back needle beds, the back and the front of the jacquard vamp fabric are connected together to form thick handfeel, when L4 and L5 are offset on the back needle bed and are looped by yarn padding, the jacquard vamp fabric is matched with JB4 traversing working lines L6, L7 and GB8 to form Gu Kadi pure color A color zone 3, gu Kadi pure color B color zone 4 and jacquard color inserting and extracting point color mixing zone 6 on the front of the fabric;

the JB4 transversely moving working lines L6, L7 and GB8 fully penetrate the sixth, seventh and eighth system yarns, specifically the 200D/96F terylene low-elasticity environment-friendly recovery semi-gloss DTY and 150D/46F terylene semi-gloss DTY, the L6 and L7 are offset at the back needle bed and are padded into a loop, and a Gu Kada pure color zone 1 is formed on the front surface of the vamp by matching with the yarn padding movement of GB8 at the back needle bed;

the JB2 traversing working lines L2, L3 and JB4 traversing working lines L6 and L7 select different looping time and cooperate with different offset motions to form Gu Kashan through hole areas 2 and Gu Kashuang through hole areas 5 on the front surface of the three jacquard vamp fabric.

GB1 to GB8 show different colors of vamp materials after dyeing in different sequences due to different dyeing performances of penetrating yarns of guide bars, and can show 4 colors at most. The guide bars and the transverse moving working lines of GB1 to GB8 can also directly penetrate into the color yarns with different colors according to design requirements to directly weave the color woven three-jacquard vamp material.

The jacquard guide bar JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 adopt a creel negative yarn supply mode so as to adapt to different requirements on tension when the jacquard guide bar JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 weave Gu Kadi pure color A color areas 3 and Gu Kadi pure color B color areas 4 and jacquard insertion color extraction point color mixing areas 6; yarns with different materials, colors or dyeing performances can be selected, and the three jacquard vamp material is woven by a special process; the vamp material is soft in texture, can be made into four colors at most, has excellent three-dimensional effect, increases vamp design feel, and meets the aesthetic requirements of more and more diversified consumers.

The invention utilizes the characteristic that the electronic jacquard can shift when the needle moves forward and the needle moves backward, and combines the organization structure, jacquard shift control information and shift time to form different organization such as looping organization, mesh organization and the like, thus greatly enriching jacquard organization structure; simultaneously, the jacquard guide bar half machine number configuration characteristics are utilized, yarns with different dyeing performances are respectively penetrated through jacquard guide needles in odd longitudinal rows and even longitudinal rows, and the fabric effect with the four-color jacquard effect is formed by matching with the structural design of the weave.

Claims

1. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric is characterized in that: the knitting machine is woven on a three Gu Kashuang needle bed warp knitting machine with 8 traversing working lines, and the arrangement of the 8 traversing working lines from the machine to the machine is as follows: 1) The ground guide bar GB1 only weaved on the front needle bed moves across the working lines, and the jacquard guide bar JB2 only weaved on the front needle bed moves across the working lines L2 and L3; 2) The jacquard guide bar JB3 transversely moves the working lines L4 and L5 which are sequentially looped and woven on the front needle bed and the back needle bed; 3) The jacquard comb JB4 woven into a loop on the back needle bed transversely moves the working lines L6 and L7, and the ground guide bar GB8 woven into a loop on the back needle bed transversely moves the working lines; the GB1 penetrates into the first system yarn, the JB2 traversing working lines L2 and L3 penetrate into the second system yarn and the third system yarn, the GB1 is looped by matching with the JB2 on the front needle mattress yarn to form the back surface of the vamp knitted fabric; the JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 penetrate into the yarns of the fourth and fifth systems, and are looped in turn on the front and back needle beds to form Gu Kadi point areas of the vamp knitted fabric; the JB4 transversely moving working lines L6 and L7 penetrate into the sixth system yarn and the seventh system yarn, the GB8 penetrates into the eighth system yarn, and the GB8 is looped on the rear needle bed in cooperation with the JB4 to form the front surface of the vamp knitted fabric; the front needle bed guide bars GB1 and JB2 are matched with the rear needle bed guide bars GB8 and JB4, and Gu Kashan through hole areas, gu Kashuang through hole areas and Gu Kada pure color areas of the vamp knitted fabric are formed through different selections of looping time of the front needle bed and the rear needle bed;

the braiding method comprises the following steps:

1) GB1 and JB2 sideslip working lines L2, L3 fully penetrate first, second, third system yarn and make the first layer coil, only stitch the mattress yarn of the front needle, form and weave the chain organization and weave the flat organization, use as the reverse side of the vamp knitted fabric, its concrete yarn number of backing is: GB 1:0-1-1/1-0-0-0//, L2:0-1-1-1/2-1-1//, L3:0-1-1-1/2-1-1//;

2) The JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 fully penetrate the yarns of the fourth and fifth systems, the yarns are looped in turn on the front and back needle beds, and the yarn padding numbers are as follows: l4 is 0-1-1-0/2-1-0-1//, L5 is 0-1-2-1/2-1-1-2//; when L4 and L5 are looped in turn on the front and back needle beds, the back and the front of the vamp knitted fabric are connected together; when the L4 and the L5 deviate from the back needle bed and are padded with yarns to form loops, the L4 and the L5 are matched with the JB4 traversing working lines L6, L7 and GB8, a Gu Kadi pure color zone and a Jack color-inserting and extracting color-mixing zone are formed on the vamp surface layer;

4) The JB2 traversing working lines L2, L3 and JB4 traversing working lines L6 and L7 select different looping time and cooperate with different offset motions to form Gu Kashan through hole areas and Gu Kashuang through hole areas on the front surface of the vamp knitted fabric.

2. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the Gu Kadi point area comprises a Gu Kadi point pure color area and a Jacquard color extraction point mixed color area.

3. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein: the Gu Kadi pure color zone can be selected from two colors to form a Gu Kadi point A color zone and a Gu Kadi point B color zone; the Gu Kadi pure color zone can be one color, so as to form a Gu Kadi single-color pure color zone; the jacquard color-inserting and point-extracting color-mixing area is formed by alternately developing colors on the front side by the colors A and C.

4. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein: the colors A, B and C are any three different colors.

5. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the front surface of the Gu Kashan through hole area is of a mesh structure, and the back surface of the Gu Kashan through hole area is of a plane structure; the front and the back surfaces of the Gu Kashuang through hole area are both mesh structures.

6. The four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable warp-knitted double-needle-bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 5, wherein: the mesh shapes of the Gu Kashan through hole area and the Gu Kashuang through hole area are diamond, honeycomb, square and round.

7. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the jacquard guide bar JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 adopt a creel passive yarn feeding mode so as to adapt to different requirements of the jacquard guide bar JB3 traversing working lines L4 and L5 on tension when knitting different areas.

8. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the first system yarn is 100D terylene semi-gloss FDY, the second system yarn is 150D cation low-elasticity light net semi-gloss DTY, the third and fifth system yarns are 70D x 2 nylon low-elasticity middle net untwisted DTY, the fourth system yarn is 75D x 2 cation low-elasticity light net untwisted DTY, the sixth and seventh system yarns are 200D terylene low-elasticity environment-friendly recycled semi-gloss DTY, and the eighth system yarn is 150D terylene semi-gloss DTY.

9. A four-color three jacquard three-dimensional breathable double needle bed vamp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the first to eighth system yarns can directly select the color yarns with different colors, specifications and materials according to the design requirement of patterns.