CN114134667A - Processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric - Google Patents

Processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114134667A
CN114134667A CN202111434965.8A CN202111434965A CN114134667A CN 114134667 A CN114134667 A CN 114134667A CN 202111434965 A CN202111434965 A CN 202111434965A CN 114134667 A CN114134667 A CN 114134667A
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color stripe
tencel
processing method
short
knitted
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梁世海
吴雪原
陆春兰
蒋晓敬
赵金虎
黄丽
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Shanghai Jialinjie Weaving Technology Co ltd
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Shanghai Jialinjie Weaving Technology Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32Polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/38Polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

The application relates to the technical field of color stripe fabric processing, and particularly discloses a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric. The specific scheme of the application comprises the following steps: the blank cloth is processed by four steps of open width washing, presetting, final setting and rolling; the grey cloth is a color stripe fabric dyed by disperse dyes, and the setting temperature in the presetting procedure and the final setting procedure is adjusted to be 170-185 ℃. The processing method has the advantages of cost reduction, water saving, environmental protection, high efficiency and short flow while ensuring the cloth cover quality of the color stripe fabric.

Description

Processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of color stripe fabric processing, in particular to a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric.
Background
Polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric (color stripe fabric for short) is wide in color, soft and comfortable in hand feeling and rich in elasticity, and is deeply loved by consumers all the time.
The production process of the color stripe fabric of polyester spandex and tencel in the prior art at least comprises the following steps: the method comprises the steps of open width washing of raw grey cloth, presetting heating at 190 ℃, water falling washing, cloth finishing after dehydration, final setting heating at 130-150 ℃ and final rolling. In the production process, because the temperature is too high during presetting, the obtained color stripe fabric is complex and long in process flow and is easy to have the problem of poor soaping fastness, and therefore, the processing of the color stripe fabric of polyester spandex and tencel still has room for improvement.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to shorten the process and improve the soaping color fastness of the color stripe fabric, the application provides a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric.
The application provides a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric, which adopts the following technical scheme:
a short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric processing method comprises the steps of processing blank cloth through four steps of open width washing, pre-setting, final setting and rolling; the grey cloth is a color stripe fabric dyed by disperse dyes, and the setting temperature in the presetting procedure and the final setting procedure is adjusted to be 170-185 ℃.
By adopting the technical scheme, the temperature in the presetting process is reduced to 170-185 ℃, the influence of the temperature on the color fixing fastness of the disperse dye can be effectively reduced, the whole processing method does not need to go through the procedures of falling water cleaning, dewatering and fabric finishing in the related technology, the final setting process can be directly carried out after the presetting process is finished, the final setting temperature is increased to 170-185 ℃, and the soaping color fastness of the color stripe fabric is effectively improved. Therefore, the processing method has the advantages of cost reduction, water saving, environmental protection, high efficiency and short flow while ensuring the cloth cover quality of the color stripe fabric.
Preferably, the specific process requirements of the pre-setting process are as follows: the temperature is 178 and 182 ℃, the overfeed amount is 25-50 percent, and the vehicle speed is 15-30 m/min.
By adopting the technical scheme, the presetting temperature is further reduced to 180 +/-2 ℃, the temperature and the time length of each piece of cloth which is uniformly heated are effectively guaranteed by combining the speed and the overfeeding amount of the cloth conveying, the presetting uniformity of the color stripe fabric is improved, meanwhile, the problems of wrinkles, turned edges and the like of the cloth cover can be effectively reduced, and the quality of the color stripe fabric is greatly improved.
Preferably, the specific process requirements of the final sizing process are as follows: the temperature is 178 and 182 ℃, the overfeed amount is 30-50 percent, and the vehicle speed is 15-30 m/min.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the temperature that further improves final design is in 180 + -2 ℃ scope, and combine the speed of a motor vehicle and the overfeed volume of cloth conveying, directly enter into the process of final design from the presetting process, the process flow has not only been shortened, and the process of colour bar surface fabric transmission between presetting process and final design process needs to flow through and carry out appropriate water-cooling in the water tank of final design machine, can also ensure required moisture of colour bar surface fabric when final design when effectively improving the fixation effect this moment, the temperature and the time length of effectively having guaranteed every cloth by even heating, whole production reduces the accuse point, the flow is more simple and convenient.
Preferably, the water tank of the setting machine in the final setting procedure is also added with 0.1-1.5% of hydrophilic softening agent o.w.f.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the hydrophilic softener of adding is in the basin of forming machine, and the transmission of color bar surface fabric enters into the basin of above-mentioned forming machine, and the hydrophilic softener of dissolving in aquatic can effectually be attached to the fibre surface of color bar surface fabric this moment, toasts the back via the high temperature of final design again, can accomplish the after-treatment operation to the color bar surface fabric simultaneously, has shortened process flow greatly.
Preferably, the hydrophilic softening agent is selected from water-based silicone oil softening agents.
Preferably, the aqueous silicone oil softener is selected from one or more of water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204, super-soft and super-smooth block silicone oil RG-CS1019 and multi-component copolymerization block silicone oil RG-D422Y.
By adopting the technical scheme, the water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204, the super-soft and super-smooth block silicone oil RG-CS1019 and the multi-element copolymerization block silicone oil RG-D422Y are common water-based silicone oil softeners, and have a good effect of improving the softness of fabrics.
Preferably, the specific process requirements of the open width water washing process are as follows: the temperature is 40-80 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 20-30 m/min.
By adopting the technical scheme, the effects of adding oil and contaminated oil stains in the spinning or weaving process of the color stripe fabric and the like can be effectively removed.
Preferably, the blank cloth is selected from knitting color stripe fabric.
By adopting the technical scheme, the knitted fabric is formed by bending yarns into loops by using a knitting needle and mutually stringing the loops, and the fabric obtained by using the knitting method has good air permeability, certain elasticity and more comfortable wearing.
Preferably, the yarn of the grey cloth is selected from polyester spandex fiber and/or tencel fiber.
By adopting the technical scheme, the polyester spandex fiber is obtained by twisting or blending polyester and spandex, is soft and comfortable in hand feeling, and has the advantages of light resistance, wear resistance, good elasticity and the like. The tencel fiber, also called lyocell fiber, commonly known as tencel velvet, takes natural plant fiber as a raw material, has multiple excellent performances of natural fiber and synthetic fiber, and has the advantages of good moisture permeability, good air permeability, good heat retention, no static electricity, allergy resistance, biodegradability and the like. Therefore, the knitted fiber prepared from the two fibers has the advantages of both the two fibers, and the prepared fabric has a large sales market.
In summary, the present application has the following beneficial effects:
1. the processing method has the advantages of cost reduction, water saving, environmental protection, high efficiency and short flow while ensuring the cloth cover quality of the color stripe fabric.
2. The temperature that this application further reduced the presetting is at 180 +/-2 ℃ to combine the speed of a motor vehicle and the overfeed volume of cloth conveying, effectively guaranteed that every cloth is by the temperature and the time length of even heating, when having improved the homogeneity of color stripe surface fabric presetting, can also effectively reduce the cloth cover and take place the emergence of wrinkle and turn-up scheduling problem, improved the quality of color stripe surface fabric greatly.
Detailed Description
The present application will be described in further detail with reference to examples.
The starting materials used in the examples of the present application are all commercially available products, except for the specific descriptions below.
Disperse blue 291 is selected from disperse blue 291 of Yongku technologies, Inc. of Hubei, CAS number 56548-64-2.
Disperse yellow 163 is selected from disperse yellow 163 from Yongkus technology, Inc. of Hubei, CAS number 71767-67-4.
Disperse blue 102 was selected from disperse blue 102 from York technologies, Inc. of Hubei, CAS number 68516-81-4.
The water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204 is water-soluble silicone oil (organic silicone oil emulsion) with the type of SH-204, which is selected from New four-sea chemical industry Co., Ltd, Hubei, the solid content (150 ℃, 2 h) is more than or equal to 98 percent, and the water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener is light yellow transparent liquid.
The super-soft super-smooth block silicone oil RG-CS1019 is super-soft smooth softener (super-soft super-smooth block silicone oil) selected from Winfang Rui chemical industry Co., Ltd, with the model number of RG-CS1019, and is light yellow transparent liquid.
The multi-component copolymerized block silicone oil RG-D422Y is selected from the multi-component copolymerized block silicone oil with the model number of RG-D422Y of Wigfang Rui chemical industry Co., Ltd, and is light yellow transparent liquid.
Examples
Example 1: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric comprises the following steps:
the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric provided by the embodiment is a color stripe fabric which is obtained by knitting polyester spandex fibers and tencel fibers through a knitting method and is used as wool grey cloth.
The disperse dye adopted by the color stripe fabric is disperse blue 291.
1) Open width water washing procedure: after the grey cloth is unreeled, the grey cloth is subjected to open-width washing at the temperature of 60 ℃ and the speed of 25 m/min.
2) A presetting procedure: and (3) carrying out setting operation on the blank cloth subjected to the open-width water washing operation in step 1) by a knitted cloth setting machine (Xindu printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd., Wuxi city) under the conditions of 180 ℃, the overfeeding amount of 25% and the vehicle speed of 25 m/min.
3) And (3) final shaping procedure: adding 0.5% o.w.f. (dye-to-fabric weight) of water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204 (hydrophilic softener) into a water tank of a knitted fabric setting machine (Xian-Xin-Du printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd.), then conveying the pre-setting blank cloth obtained in the pre-setting step 2) into an oven of the setting machine through the water tank of the knitted fabric setting machine (Xian-Xin-Du printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd.), and carrying out setting operation under the conditions of 180 ℃, 30% of overfeed amount and 30 m/min of vehicle speed.
4) Rolling: and (3) automatically rolling the color stripe fabric conveyed in the final shaping process in a YL-2100F-EC edge rolling machine (Yili clothing machinery Co., Ltd., Zhaoqing).
Example 2: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric comprises the following steps:
the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric provided by the embodiment is a color stripe fabric which is obtained by knitting polyester spandex fibers and tencel fibers through a knitting method and is used as wool grey cloth.
The disperse dye adopted by the color stripe fabric is disperse yellow 163.
1) Open width water washing procedure: after the grey cloth is unreeled, the grey cloth is subjected to open-width washing at the temperature of 40 ℃ and the speed of 20 m/min.
2) A presetting procedure: the blank cloth after 1) open width water washing operation is subjected to setting operation by a knitted cloth setting machine (Xindu printing and dyeing machinery, Inc., Wuxi city) under the conditions of 170 ℃, 30% of overfeeding amount and 15 m/min of vehicle speed.
3) And (3) final shaping procedure: adding 0.1% o.w.f. (dye-to-fabric weight) of water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204 (hydrophilic softener) into a water tank of a knitted fabric setting machine (Xian-Xin-Du printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd.), then conveying the pre-setting blank cloth obtained in the pre-setting step 2) into an oven of the setting machine through the water tank of the knitted fabric setting machine (Xian-Xin-Du printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd.), and carrying out setting operation under the conditions of 185 ℃, over-feeding amount of 45% and vehicle speed of 25 m/min.
4) Rolling: and (3) automatically rolling the color stripe fabric conveyed in the final shaping process in a YL-2100F-EC edge rolling machine (Yili clothing machinery Co., Ltd., Zhaoqing).
Example 3: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric comprises the following steps:
the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric provided by the embodiment is a color stripe fabric which is obtained by knitting polyester spandex fibers and tencel fibers through a knitting method and is used as wool grey cloth.
The disperse dye adopted by the color stripe fabric is disperse blue 102.
1) Open width water washing procedure: after the grey cloth is unreeled, the grey cloth is subjected to open-width washing at the temperature of 80 ℃ and the speed of 15 m/min.
2) A presetting procedure: the blank cloth after 1) open width water washing operation is subjected to setting operation by a knitted fabric setting machine (Xindu printing and dyeing machinery, Inc., Wuxi city) under the conditions of 185 ℃, 50% of overfeeding amount and 30 m/min of vehicle speed.
3) And (3) final shaping procedure: adding 1.5% o.w.f. (dye-to-fabric weight) of water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204 (hydrophilic softener) into a water tank of a knitted fabric setting machine (Xin Du printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd., Wuxi city), then conveying the pre-setting blank cloth obtained in the pre-setting step 2) into an oven of the setting machine through the water tank of the knitted fabric setting machine (Xin Du printing and dyeing machinery Co., Ltd., Wuxi city), and carrying out setting operation under the conditions of 170 ℃, 50% of overfeed amount and 15 m/min of vehicle speed.
4) Rolling: and (3) automatically rolling the color stripe fabric conveyed in the final shaping process in a YL-2100F-EC edge rolling machine (Yili clothing machinery Co., Ltd., Zhaoqing).
Example 4: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric provided by the embodiment is a color stripe fabric which is obtained by knitting polyester spandex fibers and cotton fibers through a knitting method and is used as wool grey cloth.
Example 5: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric provided by the embodiment is a color stripe fabric which is obtained by knitting spandex fibers and tencel fibers through a knitting method and is used as wool grey cloth.
Example 6: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: in the 3) final shaping procedure, the super-soft and super-smooth block silicone oil RG-CS1019 with hydrophilic softness of 0.5% o.w.f.
Example 7: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: in the 3) final shaping procedure, super-soft and super-smooth block silicone oil RG-CS1019 with hydrophilic softness of 0.5% o.w.f. and multi-copolymer block silicone oil RG-D422Y with hydrophilic softness of 0.1% o.w.f. are adopted.
Example 8: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: in the 3) final setting process, the setting temperature is 182 ℃.
Example 9: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: in the 3) final setting procedure, the setting temperature is 178 ℃.
Example 10: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: in the 2) pre-setting step, the setting temperature is 182 ℃.
Example 11: a processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the embodiment 1 in that: in the 2) presetting procedure, the setting temperature is 178 ℃.
Comparative example
Comparative example 1: a processing method of polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the example 1 in that: in the 2) pre-setting procedure, the setting temperature is 190 ℃.
Comparative example 2: a processing method of polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the example 1 in that: in the 3) final setting procedure, the setting temperature is 150 ℃.
Comparative example 3: a processing method of polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the example 1 in that: in the 2) pre-setting procedure, the setting temperature is 190 ℃; three steps of washing the grey cloth in water, dehydrating the blank cloth and finishing the grey cloth are also arranged between the pre-setting process and the final setting process.
Comparative example 4: a processing method of polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the example 1 in that: in the 2) presetting procedure, the setting temperature is 160 ℃.
Comparative example 5: a processing method of polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is different from the processing method of the example 1 in that: in the 3) final setting procedure, the setting temperature is 190 ℃.
Performance detection analysis
Test No.)
Test subjects: the color stripe fabrics processed in examples 1 to 11 were used as test samples 1 to 11, and the color stripe fabrics processed in comparative examples 1 to 5 were used as control samples 1 to 5.
The test method comprises the following steps:
1. fastness to water immersion the test standards are determined with reference to the international standard ISO 105-EO 1.
2. Fastness to soaping the test standard is determined with reference to the international standard ISO 105-C10.
TABLE 1
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Figure 134633DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
As can be seen by combining examples 1-11, comparative examples 1-5 and commercial products 1-2 with Table 1, the color stripe fabrics corresponding to examples 1-11 were found to have no wrinkles, curling, fading and floating color when examined by light. Comparative examples 1-5 and commercial products 1-2 all had different degrees of surface problems. Meanwhile, the soaping fastness and the water immersion fastness of comparative examples 1-2 and commercial products 1-2 were inferior to those of examples 1-11. The total length of processing for 1 piece of cloth for examples 1-11 was in the range of 1.8-2.4 hours, while the total length of processing for 1 piece of cloth for comparative example 3 was about 4.2 hours and the total length of processing for 1 piece of cloth for commercial products 1-2 was in the range of 3.5-4 hours. Therefore, the soaping-resistant color fastness and the water-immersion-resistant color fastness of the color stripe fabric can be effectively improved by simultaneously shortening the temperature of the whole processing flow through reasonably controlling the presetting and the final setting.
As can be seen from example 1 and examples 8-11 in combination with Table 1, example 1 has a soaping fastness of about grade 2 and a water-soak fastness of about grade 2-3; the colorfastness to water immersion of examples 8-11 were all on the order of 2-3, but the fastness to soaping of examples 8 and 10 was on the order of 3, and the fastness to soaping of examples 9 and 11 was on the order of 3-4. Therefore, the same processing flow is maintained, and the change of the temperature has great influence on the soaping color fastness and the water immersion color fastness of the whole color stripe fabric. It can be seen by combining the details of examples 2-3 and examples 8-10 that the soaping fastness at both the pre-and final-set temperatures above 180 deg.C (i.e. 182 deg.C, 185 deg.C) is inferior to that at both the pre-and final-set temperatures below 180 deg.C. And the slight change of the pre-setting and final-setting temperatures has little influence on the color fastness to water dipping of the color stripe fabric.
As can be seen from example 1, comparative examples 1-2 and comparative examples 4-5 in combination with Table 1, the soaping color fastness and the water immersion color fastness of the color stripe fabric are better when the pre-setting and final-setting temperatures are in the range of 170 ℃ and 185 ℃. When the presetting temperature is higher than 185 ℃ (190 ℃), the color fastness to soaping and the color fastness to water immersion of the color stripe fabric are both greatly reduced; when the presetting temperature is lower than 170 ℃ (only 160 ℃), the color stripe fabric of the comparative example 4 is found to have obvious flooding, fading and slight curling when being checked by a lamp (the fabric surface problem of the color stripe fabric can be seen by naked eyes without carrying out soaping fastness and water-immersion fastness detection). When the final setting temperature is lower than 170 ℃ (only 150 ℃), the color fastness to soaping and the color fastness to water soaking of the color stripe fabric are greatly reduced; when the final setting temperature is higher than 185 ℃ (190 ℃), the color stripe fabric of the comparative example 5 is also found to have obvious flooding, fading and slight curling when being checked by a lamp (the fabric surface problem of the color stripe fabric can be seen by naked eyes without carrying out soaping fastness and water-immersion fastness detection).
According to the example 1 and the comparative example 2, the cloth surface of the color stripe fabric of the comparative example 2 is found to have no wrinkles but has an unobvious curling phenomenon during light inspection, so that the setting temperature in the final setting procedure is not up to the requirement (namely, the final setting temperature is too low) at 150 ℃, and the problem of cloth surface curling cannot be solved.
According to the example 1, the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 3, it can be seen that the cloth cover problem is alleviated by adding the processes (namely, the three steps of adding the falling water washing wool grey cloth, dewatering the blank cloth and finishing the wool grey cloth), but the cloth cover of the color stripe fabric still has slight phenomena of floating color, fading and edge curling during the light inspection, so that the cloth cover problem of the color stripe fabric processed by the mode of adding the processes is still larger than that of the color stripe fabric of the example 1 in the application. In conclusion, the cloth cover problem of the color stripe fabric can be effectively reduced by controlling the presetting, the final setting temperature and the process shortening mode, and the soaping color fastness of the color stripe fabric to disperse dyes is improved.
The specific embodiments are merely illustrative of the present application and are not restrictive of the present application, and those skilled in the art can make modifications of the embodiments as required without any inventive contribution thereto after reading the present specification, but only protected by the patent laws within the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims (9)

1. A processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric is characterized in that blank cloth is processed by four steps of open width washing, presetting, final setting and rolling; the grey cloth is a color stripe fabric dyed by disperse dyes, and the setting temperature in the presetting procedure and the final setting procedure is adjusted to be 170-185 ℃.
2. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the specific process requirements of the pre-setting process are as follows: the temperature is 178 and 182 ℃, the overfeed amount is 25-50 percent, and the vehicle speed is 15-30 m/min.
3. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the specific process requirements of the final sizing process are as follows: the temperature is 178 and 182 ℃, the overfeed amount is 30-50 percent, and the vehicle speed is 15-30 m/min.
4. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 1 or 3, characterized in that 0.1-1.5% of hydrophilic softening agent is added into a water tank of a setting machine in the final setting procedure.
5. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 4, wherein the hydrophilic softening agent is selected from water-based silicone oil softening agents.
6. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 5, wherein the aqueous silicone oil softener is one or more selected from water-soluble silicone oil fabric softener SH-204, super-soft and super-smooth block silicone oil RG-CS1019 and poly-copolymerized block silicone oil RG-D422Y.
7. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the specific process requirements of the open width water washing process are as follows: the temperature is 40-80 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 20-30 m/min.
8. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the grey cloth is selected from knitted color stripe fabrics.
9. The processing method of the short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric according to claim 1, wherein yarns of the raw gray fabric are selected from polyester spandex fibers and/or tencel fibers.
CN202111434965.8A 2021-11-29 2021-11-29 Processing method of short-process polyester spandex and tencel knitted color stripe fabric Pending CN114134667A (en)

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Application publication date: 20220304