CN114028260A - 一种神经酰胺e乳化剂及其制备方法与在化妆品中的应用 - Google Patents
一种神经酰胺e乳化剂及其制备方法与在化妆品中的应用 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114028260A CN114028260A CN202111322670.1A CN202111322670A CN114028260A CN 114028260 A CN114028260 A CN 114028260A CN 202111322670 A CN202111322670 A CN 202111322670A CN 114028260 A CN114028260 A CN 114028260A
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- Prior art keywords
- ceramide
- emulsifier
- lecithin
- humectant
- water
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种神经酰胺E乳化剂及其制备方法与在化妆品中的应用。本发明的神经酰胺E乳化剂包括如下组份:神经酰胺E0.1~5%、卵磷脂0~2%、保湿剂8~25%、乳化剂5~10%、助剂0~2%,余量为水;其制备方法为先用保湿剂将卵磷脂和神经酰胺E搅拌润湿,加热溶解,再加入剩余物料,加热状态下剪切分散均匀后通过微射流均质机处理,得到外观呈半透明或透明的神经酰胺E乳化剂。本发明的神经酰胺E乳化剂,具有良好的稳定性、水分散性及生物相容性,能广泛用于化妆品行业。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品制备技术中领域,更具体地是涉及一种神经酰胺E乳化剂及其制备方法与在化妆品中的应用。
背景技术
神经酰胺是一种天然的皮肤脂质,它会在皮肤表面形成一层防水屏障,不仅能帮助皮肤锁住水分,还能促进皮肤的自我修复功能。另外其具有很强的缔合水分子的能力,它通过在角质层中形成的网状结构来维持皮肤的水分。因此把含有神经酰胺乳化剂涂在干燥起皮的皮肤上,能改善皮肤粗糙的现象,皮肤恢复弹性及保持水分效果显著。虽然其具有保湿、抗炎抗敏、修复屏障、抗衰老的功效,但其功效得以实现的前提是活性成分能有效透过皮肤表层并在皮肤组织中高浓度富集和长时间滞留,即实现护肤活性成分的皮肤靶向输送。神经酰胺为高结晶性物质,应用于化妆品存在溶解度低、水分散性差、易结晶析出等问题,限制了其在化妆品中应用。
发明内容
本发明解决了现有神经酰胺产品存在的溶解度低、稳定性差、分散性不均匀的缺陷,提供了一种神经酰胺乳化剂及其制备方法和应用。本发明提供的神经酰胺乳化剂稳定性高,水中分散性好,且制备方法便捷,具有良好工业化生产前景。
本发明是通过以下技术方案来解决上述技术问题的:
一种神经酰胺E乳化剂,按质量百分比,包括以下组分:神经酰胺E0.1~5%、卵磷脂0~2%、保湿剂8~25%、乳化剂5~10%、助剂0~2%,余量为水。优选的,按质量百分比,神经酰胺E乳化剂包括以下组分:神经酰胺E1~3%、卵磷脂0.1~0.5%、保湿剂15~20%、乳化剂6~8%、助剂0.5~1.5%,余量为水。进一步优选的,按质量百分比,神经酰胺E乳化剂包括以下组分:神经酰胺E1.2~2.7%、卵磷脂0.1~0.3%、保湿剂15~18%、乳化剂6~8%、助剂0.8~1.3%,余量为水。
本发明中,助剂为抗氧化剂和/或防腐剂;抗氧化剂为生育酚(维生素E)、抗坏血酸(维生素C)、姜黄素、虾青素、二丁基羟基甲苯(BHT)、丁羟基茴香醚(BHA)、叔丁基对苯二酚(TBHQ)和没食子酸丙脂的一种或多种,优选为维生素E,抗氧化剂的含量为0.01~0.2wt%;防腐剂为羟苯甲脂、苯氧乙醇、尼泊金甲酯、尼泊金丙酯、咪唑烷基脲、己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮的一种或多种,防腐剂的含量为0.1~1.5wt%,优选为己二醇与对羟基苯乙酮,进一步优选的,己二醇的含量为0.1~1wt%、对羟基苯乙酮的0.1~1wt%。
本发明中,所述乳化剂为十六烷基磷酸钾、鲸蜡醇、吐温80、吐温20、司盘20、PEG40氢化蓖麻油的一种或多种;优选PEG40氢化蓖麻油,含量为5~10wt%。
本发明中,所述保湿剂为甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、山梨醇、聚乙二醇、透明质酸的一种或多种;优选为甘油和丁二醇,进一步优选的,甘油的含量为5~10wt%、丁二醇的含量为5~10wt%。
本发明中,卵磷脂为氢化卵磷脂,限定配方中,可以提高乳液的稳定性。
本发明公开了上述神经酰胺E乳化剂的制备方法,包括如下步骤:加热搅拌下,将神经酰胺E溶液加入到水相溶液中,再经过均质处理,得到神经酰胺E乳化剂;将神经酰胺E、卵磷脂、部分保湿剂混合,得到神经酰胺E溶液;将其余物质混合,得到水相溶液。具体的,上述神经酰胺E乳化剂的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)取部分保湿剂、卵磷脂及神经酰胺E,加热搅拌,得到神经酰胺E溶液;
(2)取其余保湿剂、乳化剂、防腐剂、抗氧化剂加入水中,得到水相溶液;
(3)在加热并高剪切分散下,向步骤(2)的水相溶液中加入步骤(1)所得的得神经酰胺E溶液,继续高剪切分散,然后冷却;再经过微射流均质,得所述神经酰胺E乳化剂。
其中:所述加热的温度为60~80℃,步骤(1)优选75℃,步骤(3)优选70℃;步骤(3)所述高剪切的转速为4000~6500rpm,优选6000rpm,继续高剪切分散的时间为5~15min,优选10min;微射流均质的压力为15000~35000psi,优选30000psi,微射流均质的次数为1~5次,优选3次。
上述技术方案中,部分保湿剂为丁二醇,其余保湿剂为甘油。
理论上,神经酰胺(Ceramides, Cers)存在于所有的真核细胞中,对细胞分化、增殖、凋亡、衰老等生命活动具有重要调节作用。神经酰胺作为皮肤角质层细胞间脂质的主要成分,不仅在鞘磷脂途径中作为第二信使分子,还对表皮角质层形成过程发挥重要作用,具有维持皮肤屏障、保湿、抗衰老、美白和疾病治疗等作用。作为实际应用时,神经酰胺乳液配方的设计对其技术效果有明显影响,因为配方设计对神经酰胺的溶解、稳定有决定作用,还对神经酰胺穿透表皮具有关键影响。本发明公开的配方组成合理,限定技术方案对神经酰胺的溶解、稳定有利,而且活性成分能有效透过皮肤表层并在皮肤组织中高浓度富集和长时间滞留,作为皮肤化妆品具有好的应用效果,同时本发明组成简单,避免复杂组分的使用,且制备方法便捷,具有良好工业化生产前景。
附图说明
图1为实施例原液外观(0天);
图2为实施例原液稀释5倍外观(0天);
图3为实施例原液稀释10倍外观(0天);
图4为实施例原液外观(7天);
图5为实施例原液稀释5倍外观(7天);
图6为实施例原液稀释10倍外观(7天);
图7为实施例原液外观(28天);
图8为实施例原液稀释5倍外观(28天);
图9为实施例原液稀释10倍外观(28天);
图10为实施例1样品未微射流均质的粒径;
图11为实施例2样品未微射流均质的粒径;
图12为实施例3样品未微射流均质的粒径;
图13为实施例1原液稀释10倍(0天)的粒径;
图14为实施例2原液稀释10倍(0天)的粒径;
图15为实施例3原液稀释10倍(0天)的粒径;
图16为实施例1原液稀释10倍(28天)的粒径;
图17为实施例2原液稀释10倍(28天)的粒径;
图18为实施例3原液稀释10倍(28天)的粒径。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及的原料都是现有产品,符合化妆品应用的一般要求,提及的百分数都是质量百分比。本发明具体制备操作以及测试方法都是本领域常规方法,未限定工艺参数的操作为常规操作,比如搅拌,使得所有物质混合即可。下面通过实施例进一步说明本发明,对实施例所得神经酰胺E乳化剂的进行外观、稳定性、粒径等进行分析,实施例中所用的粒径分析仪为英国马尔文公司制造的Zetasizer Nano ZS粒径分析仪;实施例中所用微射流均质机为诺泽流体科技(上海)有限公司制造的nano微射流均质机;实施例中所用分散机为IKA制造的T25DS25分散机。
神经酰胺E(鲸蜡基-PG羟乙基棕榈酰胺)为现有物质,是一种神经酰胺类似物,对于一些肌肤问题,神经酰胺的缺失是重要原因,而外源性的补充神经酰胺,1)因其具有很强的缔合水分子的能力,可通过在角质层中形成的网状结构来维持皮肤的水分而达到保湿的作用;2)因其能通过自身的结构具有储水功能,减少紫外线等因素损失,起到一定的抗衰老作用。
实施例的制备方法如下:
称取神经酰胺、氢化卵磷脂、丁二醇,加热至75℃,常规搅拌至均一溶液,作为溶液A;称取PEG40氢化蓖麻油、甘油、己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、维生素E、纯化水,加热至70℃,常规搅拌至均一溶液,作为溶液B;将溶液B在70℃加热状态下,用IKA分散机6000rpm分散并加入溶液A,再分散10min后自然冷却(此时为未微射流处理的样品);将冷却后的混合溶液采用nano微射流30000psi均质3次,得最终溶液,为神经酰胺E乳化剂,共200g。
常规测试实施例得到得神经酰胺E乳化剂,用纯化水进行不同质量比例稀释后的外观、粒径、稳定性。结果显示实施例制备的神经酰胺乳化剂水中分散性均一、稳定性良好,见表2,图1至图9对应不同时间的实物照片;测试粒径,结果见表3,图10至图18对应不同样品的粒径;表格中,天数为室温放置时间。
对实施例1的神经酰胺E乳化剂进行常规生物学指标、功效实验、屏障修复等实验,观察安全性、皮肤刺激性等,发现其具有好的应用效果。
对比例
在实施例1的基础上将氢化卵磷脂用量调整为0.7%,发现产品粒径过大,基本与未微射流处理的样品近似。
在实施例1的基础上将丁二醇替换为丙二醇,产品放置28天后,稀释10倍出现小颗粒。
在实施例1的基础上将PEG40氢化蓖麻油替换为吐温80,产品放置28天后,稀释10倍出现小颗粒。
本发明制备方法的具体操作为常规方法,重点在于处方;现有技术中,神经酰胺E应用于化妆品存在溶解度低、水分散性差、易结晶析出等问题。本发明的关键在于提出新的配方,应用高剪切与均质制备出了稳定性好,水中分散性好的产品。
Claims (10)
1.一种神经酰胺E乳化剂,其特征在于,按质量百分比,包括以下组分:神经酰胺E0.1~5%、卵磷脂0~2%、保湿剂8~25%、乳化剂5~10%、助剂0~2%,余量为水。
2.根据权利要求1所述神经酰胺E乳化剂,其特征在于,按质量百分比,神经酰胺E乳化剂包括以下组分:神经酰胺E1~3%、卵磷脂0.1~0.5%、保湿剂15~20%、乳化剂6~8%、助剂0.5~1.5%,余量为水。
3.根据权利要求1所述神经酰胺E乳化剂,其特征在于,助剂为抗氧化剂和/或防腐剂。
4.根据权利要求3所述神经酰胺E乳化剂,其特征在于,抗氧化剂为生育酚、抗坏血酸、姜黄素、虾青素、二丁基羟基甲苯、丁羟基茴香醚、叔丁基对苯二酚、没食子酸丙脂的一种或多种;抗氧化剂的含量为0.01~0.2%;防腐剂为羟苯甲脂、苯氧乙醇、尼泊金甲酯、尼泊金丙酯、咪唑烷基脲、己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮的一种或多种;防腐剂的含量为0.1~1.5%。
5.根据权利要求1所述神经酰胺E乳化剂,其特征在于,所述乳化剂为十六烷基磷酸钾、鲸蜡醇、吐温80、吐温20、司盘20、PEG40氢化蓖麻油的一种或多种。
6.根据权利要求1所述神经酰胺E乳化剂,其特征在于,所述保湿剂为甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、山梨醇、聚乙二醇、透明质酸的一种或多种;卵磷脂为氢化卵磷脂。
7.权利要求1所述神经酰胺E乳化剂的制备方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:加热搅拌下,将神经酰胺E溶液加入到水相溶液中,再经过均质处理,得到神经酰胺E乳化剂;将神经酰胺E、卵磷脂、部分保湿剂混合,得到神经酰胺E溶液;将其余物质混合,得到水相溶液。
8.根据权利要求7所述神经酰胺E乳化剂的制备方法,其特征在于,加热的温度为60~80℃;搅拌的转速为4000~6500rpm;均质的压力为15000~35000psi。
9.权利要求1所述神经酰胺E乳化剂在制备化妆品中的应用。
10.根据权利要求9所述的应用,其特征在于,按质量百分比,神经酰胺E乳化剂包括以下组分:神经酰胺E1.2~2.7%、卵磷脂0.1~0.3%、保湿剂15~18%、乳化剂6~8%、助剂0.8~1.3%,余量为水。
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CN116270299A (zh) * | 2023-03-27 | 2023-06-23 | 芜湖美的智能厨电制造有限公司 | 一种润肤组合物、润肤乳及其制备方法 |
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