CN113930877A - 一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN113930877A
CN113930877A CN202010606499.6A CN202010606499A CN113930877A CN 113930877 A CN113930877 A CN 113930877A CN 202010606499 A CN202010606499 A CN 202010606499A CN 113930877 A CN113930877 A CN 113930877A
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shirt
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唐新东
王昌钊
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Nantong Yiyi Interlining Co ltd
Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，包括径向纱和纬向纱，所述径向纱采用纱支为全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺的9‑80英支单纱或合股纱，混纺比为棉10‑90％、涤纶10‑90％；所述纬向纱采用30‑300丹尼尔高弹丝，衬衫衬基布组织为1/1平纹。本发明中，衬衫衬径向采用全纺或混纺纱，纬向采用高弹丝，松式涂层工序中使用了低温热熔胶PA粉，通过特殊的加工工艺弥补了传统衬衫衬保形而缺乏弹性、高温压烫后使得用衬布部位的面料颜色与其他部位面料颜色有色差的缺点，彻底打破传统衬衫衬的织造理念和高温压烫条件。衬衫衬组织外观平整，径向保形的同时纬向赋有弹力，增加人体活动舒适度，低温热熔胶不仅避免了面料变色反应，且保留了耐水洗性。

Description

一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，尤其涉及一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬及其制备方法。
背景技术
衬布是服装辅料的一大种类，它在服装上起骨架作用，就如建造房屋需用钢筋水泥做骨架。通过衬布的造型、补强、保形作用，服装才能形成形形色色的优美款式。
传统衬衫衬为梭织底布，经纬向均采用全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺纱，采用(或不采用)热塑性高分子化合物涂层，通过(或不通过)高温压烫与面料粘合(或配合)，起到补强、保形、挺括等作用，赋予服装形形色色的优美款式。
但其在达到挺括效果的同时，缺乏弹性，降低了人体的舒适体验感；采用热塑性高分子化合物涂层的衬衫衬可以加强使用部位的保形性，但其压烫温度高达160-180℃，会使部分面料产生过度热缩和变色。径向硬挺，纬向富有弹性的衬布在衬衫衬领域还是空白。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于：为了解决传统的衬衫衬虽然能够达到挺括的效果，但是缺乏弹性，降低了人体的舒适体验感的问题，而提出的一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬及其制备方法。
为了实现上述目的，本发明采用了如下技术方案：
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，包括径向纱和纬向纱，
所述径向纱采用纱支为全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺的9-80英支单纱或合股纱，混纺比为棉10-90％、涤纶10-90％；
所述纬向纱采用30-300丹尼尔高弹丝，衬衫衬基布组织为1/1平纹。
作为上述技术方案的进一步描述：
所述径向纱的密度为50-120根/英寸，纬向纱的纬密为40-100根/英寸。
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的其制备方法，
包括以下生产工艺：a.浆纱；b.织造；c.染缸退浆；d.拉幅；e.树脂整理；f.松式涂层。
作为上述技术方案的进一步描述：
所述d工序中：采用高温180-200℃控制热缩率、因纬向为高弹丝，定型机主门幅120－121厘米,落布门幅116－117厘米，落布纬向弹性控制在25-30％，车速45米/分钟。
作为上述技术方案的进一步描述：
所述e工序中：加入硅油柔软剂20g/l,温度170-175℃，车速50米/分钟，落布纬向弹性控制在25-30％。
作为上述技术方案的进一步描述：
所述f工序中：使用进口低温热熔胶PA粉，花辊使用28-40目，上胶量10-35g/m2，车速20米/分钟,水温50℃，油温220℃，烘房温度148℃，落布纬向弹力控制在25％-30％。
综上所述，由于采用了上述技术方案，本发明的有益效果是：
本发明中，衬衫衬径向采用全纺或混纺纱，纬向采用高弹丝，科学配比梭织成基布，松式涂层工序中使用了低温热熔胶PA粉，通过特殊的加工工艺弥补了传统衬衫衬保形而缺乏弹性、高温压烫后使得用衬布部位的面料颜色与其他部位面料颜色有色差的缺点，彻底打破传统衬衫衬的织造理念和高温压烫条件。衬衫衬组织外观平整，径向保形的同时纬向赋有弹力，增加人体活动舒适度，低温热熔胶不仅避免了面料变色反应，且保留了耐水洗性。
具体实施方式
下面将对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其它实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
实施例1
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，包括径向纱和纬向纱，径向纱采用纱支为全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺的9-80英支单纱或合股纱，混纺比为棉10-90％、涤纶10-90％；
纬向纱采用30-300丹尼尔高弹丝，衬衫衬基布组织为1/1平纹，径向纱的密度为50-120根/英寸，纬向纱的纬密为40-100根/英寸。
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的其制备方法，包括以下生产工艺：a.浆纱；b.织造；c.染缸退浆；d.拉幅；e.树脂整理；f.松式涂层。
d工序中：采用高温180-200℃控制热缩率、因纬向为高弹丝，定型机主门幅120－121厘米,落布门幅116－117厘米，落布纬向弹性控制在25-30％，车速45米/分钟。
实施例2
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，包括径向纱和纬向纱，径向纱采用纱支为全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺的9-80英支单纱或合股纱，混纺比为棉10-90％、涤纶10-90％；
纬向纱采用30-300丹尼尔高弹丝，衬衫衬基布组织为1/1平纹，经密为50-120根/英寸，纬密为40-100根/英寸。
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的其制备方法，包括以下生产工艺：a.浆纱；b.织造；c.染缸退浆；d.拉幅；e.树脂整理；f.松式涂层。
e工序中：加入硅油柔软剂20g/l,温度170-175℃，车速50米/分钟，落布纬向弹性控制在25-30％，硅油柔软剂能赋予织物独特的柔软性，滑爽性，同时还能使得织物不泛黄，增加其拉伸回弹性。
实施例3
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，包括径向纱和纬向纱，径向纱采用纱支为全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺的9-80英支单纱或合股纱，混纺比为棉10-90％、涤纶10-90％；
纬向纱采用30-300丹尼尔高弹丝，衬衫衬基布组织为1/1平纹，经密为50-120根/英寸，纬密为40-100根/英寸。
一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的其制备方法，包括以下生产工艺：a.浆纱；b.织造；c.染缸退浆；d.拉幅；e.树脂整理；f.松式涂层。
f工序中：使用进口低温热熔胶PA粉，花辊使用28-40目，上胶量10-35g/m2，车速20米/分钟,水温50℃，油温220℃，烘房温度148℃，落布纬向弹力控制在25％-30％，在低温热熔胶PA粉的作用下，使得该衬衫衬的粘合条件为：压烫温度100-155℃，压烫压力1.5-3.0kgs/m2，压烫时间10-25秒，避免了高温压烫后与其他部位面料颜色有色差的情况。
将本申请文件中的衬衫衬(F4511-W03S,纱支规格JT/C45S×75D(T800),坯布密度88×70)，相对比于现有技术中的对比样1(常规衬衫衬F1111-W01S，纱支规格100％cotton32S×40S,坯布密度64×56)，对比样2(常规弹力衬FW5058P-W01S,经纬纱100％polyester 75D(48F)×75D(48F),坯布密度68×54)，测试用尼龙高弹针织面料(76％尼龙40D+24％氨纶弹力丝40D)，面料经向弹性95％，回弹性92％，纬向弹性98％，回弹性93％,使用粘合机型号HASHIMA(HP-900LFS)，粘合工艺参数测试数据见图表1,洗涤程序按GB/T8629-2001程序2A。
表1
Figure BDA0002559306230000051
根据粘合后外观与测试数据对比：
结论1、外观：申报产品中的衬衫衬F4511-W03S，与弹力面料粘合后衣领平整，保型性回复性较好，并保持面料原有的弹力特性；对比样1(F1111-W01S)与弹力面料粘合后衣领起轻微波浪，手感硬板，改变了面料的弹性与柔和；对比样2(FW5058P-W01S)与弹力面料粘合后，手感偏软，保型性差。
结论2、测试数据剥强：申报产品的衬衫衬高于对比样1拉力46％，高于对比样2拉力61％。
以上所述，仅为本发明较佳的具体实施方式，但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此，任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内，根据本发明的技术方案及其发明构思加以等同替换或改变，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (6)

1.一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，包括径向纱和纬向纱，其特征在于，
所述径向纱采用纱支为全棉、全涤、涤棉混纺或棉涤混纺的9-80英支单纱或合股纱，混纺比为棉10-90％、涤纶10-90％；
所述纬向纱采用30-300丹尼尔高弹丝，衬衫衬基布组织为1/1平纹。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬，所述径向纱的密度为50-120根/英寸，纬向纱的纬密为40-100根/英寸。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下生产工艺：
a.浆纱；b.织造；c.染缸退浆；d.拉幅；e.树脂整理；f.松式涂层。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的制备方法，其特征在于，所述d工序中：采用高温180-200℃控制热缩率、因纬向为高弹丝，定型机主门幅120－121厘米,落布门幅116－117厘米，落布纬向弹性控制在25-30％，车速45米/分钟。
5.根据权利要求3所述的一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的制备方法，其特征在于，所述e工序中：加入硅油柔软剂20g/l,温度170-175℃，车速50米/分钟，落布纬向弹性控制在25-30％。
6.根据权利要求3所述的一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬的制备方法，其特征在于，所述f工序中：使用进口低温热熔胶PA粉，花辊使用28-40目，上胶量10-35g/m2，车速20米/分钟,水温50℃，油温220℃，烘房温度148℃，落布纬向弹力控制在25％-30％。
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