CN113476364A - 一种用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物及其应用 - Google Patents
一种用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物及其应用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种促进皮肤微循环的植物提取物组合物,由下述方法制备而成,将桃叶:桃花:桃仁:桃胶按重量比为(1‑5):(5‑8):(5‑9):(1‑5),通过粉碎、初提、浓缩制备而成。本发明组合物具有显著的促进皮肤微循环的优势;各组分协同增效,能够有效且持续地促进皮肤微循环,加速皮肤自我更新,启动抗老修护,加速细胞增殖代谢,抚平皱纹细纹,淡化色斑暗斑,改善皮肤的整体质感和外观。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品领域,涉及一种改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物及其应用。
背景技术
人体的皮肤含有大量的毛细血管,这些毛细血管每时每刻都在都在向皮肤组织运输各种营养物质,并且排泄代谢废物,这种微动脉与微静脉之间的血液循环就叫做皮肤的微循环。微循环状态良好,皮肤细胞就能更好的进行细胞代谢,细胞的活性状态也会更好,皮肤就能保持更强的活力。
异常情况下,由于出现皮肤感染,皮肤过敏,皮肤炎症等症状,此时微循环常出现各种病理性的问题,常见有血管通透性增加,血管内容物渗漏到组织间隙,血流淤积或者血管扩张,局部组织缺氧形成新生毛细血管等。且微循环障碍之后,对细胞的损伤随即开始。这个过程很复杂,首先发生血流淤滞、血细胞聚集,血流呈淤泥状,组织细胞出现缺血损伤,细胞膜通透性增加,钙离子内流增加,线粒体内氧化磷酸化受阻,ATP大量分解,产生腺苷次黄嘌呤和黄嘌呤代谢产物,通过黄嘌呤氧化酶等途径产生大量氧自由基,自由基对膜不饱和脂肪酸的攻击产生脂质过氧化物,又加重细胞损伤,导致细胞膜结构和功能的改变。
在临床上常表现为皮肤表皮细胞损伤,活性氧自由基增多,红血丝的增多,表皮水分流失加重,衰老加速等症状。
随着现代人生活节奏的加快,睡眠不足、压力、疲劳等问题接踵而至,导致现代人的皮肤状态越来越差,而对面部微循环的改善却能够有效的解决上述的皮肤问题。且虽然市面上主打促进微循环的产品有很多,但大多为概念宣称,无法做到真正有效。因此开发一种能真正有效改善皮肤微循环的植物提取物组合物,并将其应用到产品中是非常重要的。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种改善皮肤微循环的植物提取物组合物及其应用,解决了现有技术中存在的问题。
本申请的发明人基于皮肤特点,经过广泛深入的研究,选取蔷薇科植物桃作为天然来源,通过选取桃叶提取物、桃花提取物,桃仁提取物,桃胶提取物的两种或多种进行科学配比,形成可以有效改善皮肤微循环的活性组合物。该组合物之间通过不同机理而起到协同增效作用,相对于单个活性组分,组合物具有显著的促进皮肤微循环的优势;各组分协同增效,能够有效且持续地促进皮肤微循环,加速皮肤自我更新,启动抗老修护,加速细胞增殖代谢,抚平皱纹细纹,淡化色斑暗斑,改善皮肤的整体质感和外观。因此,本发明提供一种具有改善皮肤微循环的活性组合物。不仅能够舒张皮肤表层毛细血管、改善血液循环,还能加快皮肤脂褐素的排泄,从而有效预防皮肤色斑,同时增强细胞活力,紧致肌肤,减少水分流失。
原料来源于叶系蔷薇科植物桃。桃树在我国广泛种植,是一种来源广泛的天然可再生资源。桃叶主要成分是糖甙、柚皮素、奎宁酸、番茄红素、鞣质和扁桃叶酸酰胺及少量腈甙。桃叶具有抗过敏、抗菌、消炎、止痛、通便的作用,所含的有效成分在现代食品、医药行业具有广泛的用途。
现存最早的药学专著《神农本草经》里谈到,桃花具有"令人好颜色"之功效。桃花的美容作用,主要是源于花中含有山奈酚、香豆精、三叶豆甙和维生素A、B、C等营养物质。这些物质能扩张血管,疏通脉络,润泽肌肤,改善血液循环,促进皮肤营养和氧供给,使促进人体衰老的脂褐质素加快排泄,防止黑色素在皮肤内慢性沉积,从而能有效地预防黄褐斑、雀斑、黑斑、预防的同时令肌肤润白光泽。
桃仁,是蔷薇科植物桃或者山桃的干燥成熟种子,含有苦杏仁甙,苦杏仁酶,脂肪酸等,具有很强的活血化瘀的功效。动物研究表明,桃仁提取物有舒张血管作用,使血管壁直接扩张,减少血管阻力,增加血流量,降低心肌耗氧量,改善微循环的作用。桃仁的醇提取物有抗血凝作用及较弱的溶血作用,且其抗凝血作用强于当归、赤芍、红花、益母草及鸡血藤等药。
桃树脂又名桃胶,古代称为“桃花泪”,是桃树的树皮分泌的红褐色或黄褐色胶状物质。主要成分为多糖,同时含有少量的氨基酸和蛋白质。
采用中医中“君臣佐使”的思想。桃仁具有舒张血管,改善血管血流量的作用,以桃仁作为“君药”,主行活血祛瘀,改善皮肤血液循环;桃花中含有山奈酚和各种氨基酸,作为“臣药”能扩张血管,疏通脉络,润泽肌肤,改善血液循环,促进皮肤营养和氧供给,使促进人体衰老的脂褐质素加快排泄;桃叶中含有柚皮素、奎宁酸等成分,具有抗过敏抗炎等功效,作为“佐药”辅助桃仁发挥作用;以桃树脂作为“使药”调和三者,使其合力驱邪,通过原料不同配比筛选实验得到能够有效改善皮肤微循环的植物提取物组合物及其作为化妆品的应用,因而完成本发明。
因此,本发明提供一种用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物,其是由下述方法制备而成,将桃叶:桃花:桃仁:桃胶按重量比为(1-5):(5-8):(5-9):(1-5),通过粉碎、初提、浓缩制备而成。优选地,桃叶:桃花:桃仁:桃胶重量比为(1-3):(5-7):(7-9):(3-5)。
优选地,其制备方法具体是如下:
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3-5倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨5-10小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质。将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:20-1:50,浸润1-3小时。水浴,温度为40-50℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为(1-3):(1-3):(1-3),所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%-20%,搅拌20分钟,升温致70-80℃水浴回流提取1-3小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至20-30℃,用100-200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为5000-10000rpm的条件离心20-60分钟,用孔径为0.1-1.0μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入1-3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液回流提取3-5小时。减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液。重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.01-0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物。
更优选地,包括如下步骤:
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨8小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质。将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:30,浸润3小时。水浴,温度为48℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为3:2:1,所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%,搅拌20分钟,升温致75℃水浴回流提取2小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至室温,用200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为3000rpm的条件离心30分钟,用孔径为0.5μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液萃取,分离有机层,减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液。重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物。
本发明提供一种改善皮肤微循环的护肤化妆品,其包括上述植物提取组合物作为活性成分,进一步还包括化妆品可使用的助剂。
优选地,所述植物提取组合物占化妆品的总质量的百分比为0.5-5%。
更具体地,所述化妆品为水剂、乳剂、喷雾、膏霜、凝胶剂或面膜。
相应地,本发明还提供上述用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物在制备改善皮肤微循环的护肤化妆品中的应用。
对应地,本发明还提供用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物的制备方法,具体步骤如前所述的步骤。
本发明组合物之间通过不同机理而起到协同增效作用,相对于单个活性组分,组合物具有显著的促进皮肤微循环的优势;各组分协同增效,能够有效且持续地促进皮肤微循环,加速皮肤自我更新,启动抗老修护,加速细胞增殖代谢,抚平皱纹细纹,淡化色斑暗斑,改善皮肤的整体质感和外观。而且本发明的原料为纯天然植物桃的各个部位,各组分协同效应良好,且性质温和、易于吸收、无刺激,特别符合人们对化妆品安全有效、零负担的要求,可广泛应用于皮肤护理化妆品。上述优点和效果通过具体实验和试验进行了验证,具体见后续的实施例。
附图说明
图1不同组别在抑制LPS刺激后IL1-α炎症因子产生的变化。
图2不同组别在抑制LPS刺激后IL-6炎症因子产生的变化。
具体实施方式
以下,参照实施例对本发明进行更详细和具体地描述,但下述实施例并不意在限制本发明。
在本发明中,若非特指,所有设备和原料均可从市场购得或是本行业常用的,下述实施例中的方法,如无特别说明,均为本领域常规方法。
实施例1.不同原料配比的本发明促进皮肤微循环植物提取组合物的制备
不同原料配比的本发明促进皮肤微循环植物提取组合物采用以下工艺制备。
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨8小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质。将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:30,浸润3小时。水浴,温度为48℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为3:2:1,所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%,搅拌20分钟,升温致75℃水浴回流提取2小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至室温,用200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为3000rpm的条件离心30分钟,用孔径为0.5μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液萃取,分离有机层,减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液。重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物。
其中步骤(1)和步骤(2)中涉及的原料配比按下表分别得到各组合物。
同时为了进行比较实验,也按类似的制备方法得到下述对比组合物,其中各组的原料配比见下表。
实施例2.自由基清除实验
将实施例1中制备的组合物1-20以及维C、对比组合物1-8用于自由基清除实验。具体方法如下:
精密移取2.0mL 50%乙醇的DPPH溶液(0.2mmol/L),加入2.0mL受试液,混合后充分摇匀,30min后,于517nm处测定其吸光度A,平行测定3次,取平均值,以维生素C为阳性对照。按以下公式计算各受试液对DPPH自由基的清除率:
DPPH清除率(%)=[1-(Ai-Aj)/A0]*100%
式中:Ai为加入受试物后反应的吸光度;Aj为受试液自身吸光度;A0为未加受试液的空白值。
测试结果如下:
上述试验结果表明,测试本发明的组合物1-20组合物相对空白对照组都具有良好的清除自由基能力,但相同条件下组合物比例不同,对自由基的清除率也会有影响,其中组合物1-5,8-9的清除效果较号,而组合物3效果最好。
同时,本发明的组合物效果上总体均优于对比组合物1-8,说明书本发明的组合物桃叶、桃花、桃仁再添加桃胶原胶为原料获得的提取物效果比缺失其中一种或两种原料的效果要好,产生更明显的协同作用。
实施例3.细胞炎症检测
IL1-α,IL-6为细胞炎症因子,采用ELISA法进行检测。其中以没做任何处理的HaCat细胞作为空白组,以脂多糖(LPS)诱导的HaCat细胞作为模型组。用1μg/ml LPS刺激HaCat细胞后,将1%含量的组合物3、4、9以每孔100μl加入12孔细胞板,于37℃、5%CO2恒温培养箱培养72h,每个实验组3个复孔。收集细胞培养上清,通过ELISA检测试剂盒进行抗炎功效评价,结果取平均值。测试如下,以空白组检测的含量为参考量,即为100%。
如图1和图2所示,结果表明,组合物3、4、9可以很好的抑制LPS刺激后IL1-α和IL-6炎症因子的产生,具有显著的抗炎效果,组合物3的效果最好。
实施例4.安全性测试(人体皮肤斑贴试验)
选取实施例1中组合物3、4、9按照以下配方制成面膜肌底液,分别称为样品1-3。
选取20名年龄为20-50岁之间的无皮肤病过敏史的健康受试者,斑贴方法:选用合格的斑试器,以封闭式斑贴试验方式,取约15μL样品1-3的样品滴于斑试器内,外用专用胶带贴覆于受试者背部,每个受试者贴35个斑试器,分别贴试样品1-7的肌底液样品,24小时后除去受试物,去除后分别于0.5、6、12、24、48小时观察皮肤反应,按照《护肤品卫生规范》中皮肤反应等级标准记录其结果。
试验结果:人体皮肤斑贴试验结果显示所有受试者通过斑贴试验,在0.5、6、12、24、48小时观察皮肤反应,其中0例出现皮肤红斑、丘疹、水疱等不良反应,说明本发明的产品安全,无刺激。
实施例5.皮肤TEWL分析
选择面部肌肤泛红血丝的20名受试者(年龄在18至40岁),随机分成4组,在面部分别涂抹实施例4中的样品1-3以及不添加该植物提取物的面膜肌底液的对照组,分别在0h、6h、12h用Tewameter测试受试部位的TEWL值。该值是评价皮肤屏障功能以及使用后皮肤修复的重要参数,其数值越小,屏障修复效果越好。结果如下表所示:
结果证明,样品1-3能显著降低红血丝肌肤的TWEL值,具有优异的修复屏障功能的作用,说明本发明的组合物能够有效增加红血丝皮肤的屏障功能。
实施例6.红血丝抑制测试
选取20名年龄在18-60岁、有面部红血丝的志愿者(妊娠或哺乳妇女除外)并分为4组,分别使用实施例4中的样品1-3和对照组,每天早晚各使用一次,分别在产品使用前、使用后2周、使用后4周用血红素测试仪Mexameter MX18测量面部红血丝含量。受试者需清洁面部,在温度为21±1℃、相对湿度为50±5%的实验室中静坐20min,再进行面部红血丝含量的测定,结果取平均值。
评价标准:通过测试使用前后的红血丝抑制情况(抑制率)来判断红血丝修复的效果,抑制率计算方式如下:
抑制率=(使用前红色素值-使用后红色素值)/使用前红色素值×100%
分别在受试者连续使用样品1-3四周后,统计结果,结果如下表,表明本发明的样品1至3相对于对照组的抑制率提高近2倍或2倍以上。
测试样品 | 抑制率(%) |
对照组 | 4.37 |
样品1 | 9.66 |
样品2 | 8.79 |
样品3 | 8.19 |
实施例7.感官评价
受试样品:实施例4中制备的样品1,以不添加植物提取物的面膜肌底液为对照组。
受试人群:30人,无皮肤过敏史,符合受试者志愿入选标准,年龄18-35岁之间,分成2组,每组15人。面部有明显的暗黄,粗糙,红血丝等不良状态。测试方法:取适量受试样品于涂在已清洁的患处,每天2次,早晚各1次,持续2周。受试者在使用期间保持良好作息时间和饮食习惯,2周后统计受试者的反馈情况。其中红血丝改善、皮肤变得细腻有光泽为显著;红血丝略微改善、皮肤略微细腻为有效;其他为无效。具体结果见下表:
从上述结果可知,本发明制备的改善面部微循环的面膜肌底液不仅在光泽度改善效果还是红血丝改善效果方面均明显优先于对照组,显示非常明显的优异效果。
Claims (10)
1.一种用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物,其特征在于,是由下述方法制备而成,将桃叶:桃花:桃仁:桃胶按重量比为(1-5):(5-8):(5-9):(1-5),通过粉碎、初提、浓缩制备而成。
2.如权利要求1所述的植物提取组合物,其特征在于,所述桃叶:桃花:桃仁:桃胶的重量比为(1-3):(5-7):(7-9):(3-5)。
3.如权利要求1或2所述的植物提取组合物,其特征在于,所述制备方法具体如下:
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3-5倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨5-10小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质;将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:20-1:50,浸润1-3小时;水浴,温度为40-50℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为(1-3):(1-3):(1-3),所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%-20%,搅拌20分钟,升温致70-80℃水浴回流提取1-3小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至20-30℃,用100-200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为5000-10000rpm的条件离心20-60分钟,用孔径为0.1-1.0μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入1-3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液回流提取3-5小时;减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液;重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.01-0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物。
4.如权利要求3所述的植物提取组合物,其特征在于,所述制备方法具体如下:
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨8小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质;将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:30,浸润3小时;水浴,温度为48℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为3:2:1,所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%,搅拌20分钟,升温致75℃水浴回流提取2小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至室温,用200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为3000rpm的条件离心30分钟,用孔径为0.5μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液萃取,分离有机层,减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液;重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物。
5.一种改善皮肤微循环的护肤化妆品,其特征在于,包括如权利要求1-4任一项所述植物提取组合物作为活性成分,进一步还包括化妆品可使用的助剂。
6.如权利要求5所述的护肤化妆品,其特征在于,所述植物提取组合物占化妆品的总质量的百分比为0.5-5%。
7.如权利要求5所述的护肤化妆品,其特征在于,所述化妆品为水剂、乳剂、喷雾、膏霜、凝胶剂或面膜。
8.如权利要求1-4任一项所述植物提取组合物在制备改善皮肤微循环的护肤化妆品中的应用。
9.一种用于改善皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物的制备方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3-5倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨5-10小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质;将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:20-1:50,浸润1-3小时;水浴,温度为40-50℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为(1-3):(1-3):(1-3),所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%-20%,搅拌20分钟,升温致70-80℃水浴回流提取1-3小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至20-30℃,用100-200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为5000-10000rpm的条件离心20-60分钟,用孔径为0.1-1.0μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入1-3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液回流提取3-5小时;减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液;重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.01-0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物;
其中,桃叶:桃花:桃仁:桃胶的重量比为(1-5):(5-8):(5-9):(1-5),更优选为(1-3):(5-7):(7-9):(3-5)。
10.如权利要求9所述的方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
(1)将桃叶、桃花、桃仁分别粉碎;
(2)将桃胶原胶与3倍量蒸馏水混合,浸涨8小时,过滤去除泥沙、木屑等杂质;将过滤后的桃胶进行粉碎后,与步骤(1)所得原料药按配比称取,混匀;
(3)加入去离子水提取,原料药与去离子水的质量比为1:30,浸润3小时;水浴,温度为48℃时加入纤维素酶、果胶酶、酸性蛋白酶,其质量比为3:2:1,所加入的酶总质量占原料药总质量的10%,搅拌20分钟,升温致75℃水浴回流提取2小时;
(4)将步骤(3)得到的提取液冷却至室温,用200目纱布过滤,得初滤液;
(5)向步骤(4)得到的初滤液中加入澄清剂,低温静置后在转速为3000rpm的条件离心30分钟,用孔径为0.5μm的微滤膜过滤后得到二次滤液;
(6)将步骤(5)得到的二次滤液减压浓缩,加入3倍量乙酸乙酯溶液萃取,分离有机层,减压浓缩回收乙酸乙酯,并得浓缩液;重复三次,合并浓缩液;
(7)将步骤(6)得到的浓缩液用孔径为0.05μm的超滤膜进行过滤,收集滤液,得到促进皮肤微循环的植物提取组合物。
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