CN112972333A - Whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing paeonia lactiflora root extract and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing paeonia lactiflora root extract and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN112972333A
CN112972333A CN202110260339.5A CN202110260339A CN112972333A CN 112972333 A CN112972333 A CN 112972333A CN 202110260339 A CN202110260339 A CN 202110260339A CN 112972333 A CN112972333 A CN 112972333A
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peony
solution
root extract
deionized water
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CN112972333B (en
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游瑞云
李敏玲
佘秋钿
尹丽君
韩思睿
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Fujian Normal University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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Abstract

The invention relates to a whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract, which comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 30-32 parts of a peony root extract, 5-20 parts of a peony seed modifier, 22-28 parts of dipropylene glycol, 16-18 parts of nicotinamide, 13-15 parts of small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, 7-9 parts of xanthan gum, 0.5-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5-1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol and 40-45 parts of deionized water; the formula and the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing mask containing the radix paeoniae alba provided by the invention have an antibacterial effect and an antioxidant effect, and can inhibit the generation of intracellular superoxide radicals so as to reduce and fade pigments deposited in the skin, so that the skin is whitened, and the whitening effect is achieved. Has good moisturizing effect on skin, no additive, safety and no irritation.

Description

Whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing paeonia lactiflora root extract and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract and a preparation method thereof
Background
The human face skin is thin and soft, is rich in elasticity, contains more sebaceous glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, parotid ducts and abundant blood vessel motor nerves, and has extremely sensitive reaction when being stimulated by the outside. In particular, in today's society, many professional women typically work around 10 hours before a computer each day, resulting in many skin problems, such as: dark and dry skin color, easy generation of fine lines and the like, and high working pressure, no time and energy for skin maintenance, and accelerated aging of the skin. For facial skin care, nourishing and whitening are always common pursuits of women, and each woman wants to have skin cream and white and red. Early people used various grains, traditional Chinese medicines, fresh fruits, fresh milk, lead and mercury to achieve the whitening effect. The beauty skin care products in the true sense of the eighth and the ninety years of the last century begin to be popularized in the avenue and the alleyways of China, and people pay attention to moisturizing. People have more appeal on skin care products at the beginning of the century, and whitening, nourishing and tightening are important. The mask with the whitening and nourishing effects is used as an important subclass in skin care products, and the situation of high-speed growth is met, and the market scale is rapidly expanded.
At present, commercially available facial masks are full of liman and mainly divided into moisturizing, whitening, nourishing, lifting, tightening, anti-aging, cleaning and the like according to different effects, wherein most popular facial masks are remarkable in moisturizing, whitening and nourishing effects; however, as the mask market is continuously mature, people have higher and higher requirements on the efficacy of the mask. As such, the demand of the mask is growing in a more natural and diversified direction in order to meet the demand of consumers in the market.
At present, facial mask products with the two effects are also claimed to be available in the market, but the moisturizing effect is mainly used, the real whitening effect is very slight, and the long-term use effect is generally not obvious for consumers.
Peony contains abundant paeonol, has antibacterial and antioxidant effects, and can inhibit the generation of intracellular superoxide radical to reduce and discolor pigment deposited in skin, so as to whiten skin. At present, most of natural products are extracted by adopting a traditional solvent extraction mode, so that the problems of long extraction time, low extraction rate, low biological utilization and the like exist, and more importantly, paeonol contained in the Chinese herbaceous peony is at risk of decomposition after being heated for a long time at high temperature.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the defects of the prior art, the invention provides the mask liquid which mainly contains the peony root extract and has the advantages of whitening, obvious moisturizing effect, stable and controllable quality, safety and no stimulation and the preparation method thereof.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 30-32 parts of a peony root extract, 5-20 parts of a peony seed modifier, 22-28 parts of dipropylene glycol, 16-18 parts of nicotinamide, 13-15 parts of small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, 7-9 parts of xanthan gum, 0.5-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5-1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol and 40-45 parts of deionized water.
Further, the extraction method of the peony root extract comprises the following steps:
a1, pretreatment: weighing crushed radix paeoniae alba, leaching for multiple times by using 75% ethanol solution, combining leaching liquor, drying the leaching liquor, adding deionized water to prepare a radix paeoniae alba leaching liquor with the concentration of 1mL/g, and drying the leached radix paeoniae alba dregs at 30-45 ℃;
a2, weighing the radix paeoniae alba residue dried in the step S1, adding deionized water into the residue according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:10-15, decocting for 1-2h, filtering, adding 75% ethanol with the mass fraction of 3-5 times of the volume of the radix paeoniae alba residue before cooking into the residue, stirring uniformly, standing and filtering to obtain an extracting solution;
a3, adding cellulase, tannase and deionized water into the extracting solution obtained in the step S2, uniformly stirring to obtain a mixed solution, simultaneously adding a pH regulator to control the pH of the mixed solution to be 4.5-6, and extracting the mixed solution for 1-2 hours under the conditions that the temperature is 40-55 ℃ and the ultrasonic power is 200-650W;
a4, centrifuging the extracting solution to separate solid and liquid, and filtering solid residues to obtain filtrate; leaching repeatedly for 2-3 times, and mixing the above filtrates to obtain radix Paeoniae extract.
Further, the pH adjusting agent of step S3 is citric acid.
Further, the mass ratio of the cellulase and the tannase added in the step S3 is 1: 0.5-0.8.
Further, the peony seed modified substance comprises separated and purified peony seed oil and peony seed protein, and the preparation method of the peony seed modified substance comprises the following steps:
b1, taking the shelled peony seeds, adding deionized water according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:1.5-2, adding 0.75% of pectinase by mass fraction, controlling the pH of the whole mixture to be 7.0-11.0, reacting for 1-2h at 50-55 ℃, placing the mixture in a low-temperature refrigerated centrifuge at 4-6 ℃ and centrifuging for 15-20min at the speed of 5000-;
b2, taking the upper oil phase subjected to phase splitting of the solution in the step B1, heating to melt, adding immobilized lipase, setting the rotating speed of a rotary evaporator to be 70-90r/min, extracting vacuum, reacting at 80-85 ℃ for 4-5h, removing the immobilized lipase in time after the reaction is finished, washing off impurities by using alcohol, removing residual ethanol by rotary evaporation, putting polyglycerol into a container, heating and stirring, uniformly mixing, adding 0.5-2.5% of esterifying enzyme, and reacting at 80-85 ℃ for 6-7h to obtain peony seed oil;
and B3, taking the lower-layer water phase subjected to phase separation of the solution in the step B1, dissolving the lower-layer water phase in deionized water, adjusting the pH value to 3.9-4.5, then adding 3000U/g of alkaline protease into the solution, carrying out enzymolysis in a constant-temperature water bath kettle, continuously adding 1mol/L of NaOH solution to maintain the pH value of the enzymolysis solution constant in the reaction process, carrying out centrifugal treatment for 15-25min, mixing the protein precipitate obtained by centrifugation with the deionized water according to the ratio of 1:5-8, washing with water for multiple times, finally suspending the precipitate in water according to the ratio of 1:5-8, adjusting the pH value to 7.0-7.5, and carrying out freeze drying to obtain the peony seed protein.
The invention also discloses a preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing the peony root extract, which specifically comprises the following steps:
s1, preparing a peony root extract, a peony seed modifier, dipropylene glycol, nicotinamide, small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol according to the weight parts of the raw materials;
s2, adding dipropylene glycol and peony seed oil in the peony seed modified substance into the peony root extract, adding deionized water, and uniformly stirring to obtain a solution A;
s3, sequentially adding nicotinamide, small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, peony seed protein in the peony seed modified substance and residual deionized water into the solution A obtained after the treatment in the step S2 under the condition that the stirring speed is 250-300 r/min, and uniformly mixing to obtain the facial mask liquid.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. according to the method, the traditional single extraction ultrasonic method and other methods are replaced by an ultrasonic complex enzymolysis method to extract polyphenol substances in the radix paeoniae alba, according to the composition of the cell walls of the radix paeoniae alba and the characteristic of high specificity of enzyme reaction, meanwhile, the complex enzyme adopts the enzymolysis mode of cellulose-tannin complex enzyme to assist ultrasonic waves to accelerate the breaking of the cell walls and cell membranes, so that effective components are fully exposed and dissolved, and the yield is improved; the cell wall can be broken by the synergistic action of the complex enzyme and the ultrasonic wave, the dissolution of polyphenol substances is greatly increased, and the extraction rate is obviously improved under the action of free radicals and mechanical action of ultrasonic cavitation; the method provided by the invention is a simple, green and pollution-free treatment method, the extraction conditions of the polyphenol in the peony roots are mild, the polyphenol substances in the peony can be maintained not to be damaged, and the reaction liquid can be further processed and utilized.
2. The invention is prepared by taking a peony root extract as a main raw material, has antibacterial action and antioxidant action, can inhibit the generation of superoxide radicals in cells so as to reduce and fade pigments deposited in skin, tyrosinase is a rate-limiting enzyme for melanin synthesis, determines the melanin synthesis rate and is a characteristic mark for the differentiation and maturation of melanocytes, in a human body, the tyrosinase mainly exists in the melanocytes of epidermal cells of the skin, the activity of the tyrosinase is related to the melanin synthesis amount, the melanin generation amount can be controlled by controlling the activity of the tyrosinase, peony root polyphenol has better tyrosinase activity inhibition effect, and the peony root extract is an effective tyrosinase inhibitor, can enable the skin to be whitened and achieves the whitening effect.
3. The peony seed modified substance used in the invention comprises separated and purified peony seed oil and peony seed protein, wherein the peony seed oil contains rich polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA), the content of alpha-linolenic acid is more than 42%, and the content of alpha-linoleic acid is about 28%, which is 140 times of that of olive oil and 5 times of that of fish oil; meanwhile, the peony seed oil also contains numerous bioactive components such as paeonol, peony saponin, peony polysaccharide and the like, is a plant with mild properties, can be directly smeared on the surface of human skin, can prevent free radicals from damaging skin cells of the human body, and can promote skin repair.
4. The preparation process disclosed by the invention is low in difficulty, mild in condition, simple in extraction step of the peony root polyphenol, natural and environment-friendly, safe and harmless to skin, low in economic cost, suitable for industrial large-scale production, wide in market popularization value and remarkable in social and economic benefits, and compared with the whitening moisturizing film prepared by the traditional chemical method; the peony root polyphenol has an anti-inflammatory effect, and mainly aims at inflammation caused by formaldehyde, xylene, endotoxin, egg white, histamine, bradykinin and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the inhibition rate of the peony root extract on tyrosinase activity in example 1 according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
In order to better understand the present invention, the following embodiments are further described, the examples are only used for explaining the present invention, and do not limit the present invention in any way; unless otherwise specified, the technical means used in the examples are conventional means well known to those skilled in the art, and the raw materials used are commercially available products.
Example 1
A whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 30 parts of a peony root extract, 5 parts of a peony seed modifier, 22 parts of dipropylene glycol, 16 parts of nicotinamide, 13 parts of small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, 7 parts of xanthan gum, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5 part of 1, 2-hexanediol and 40 parts of deionized water.
The extraction method of the peony root extract comprises the following steps:
a1, pretreatment: weighing crushed radix paeoniae alba, leaching for multiple times by using 75% ethanol solution, combining leaching liquor, drying the leaching liquor, adding deionized water to prepare a radix paeoniae alba leaching liquor with the concentration of 1mL/g, and drying the leached radix paeoniae alba dregs at 30 ℃;
a2, weighing the radix paeoniae alba residue dried in the step S1, adding deionized water into the residue according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:10, decocting for 1h, filtering, adding 75% ethanol with the mass fraction of 3 times of the volume of the radix paeoniae alba residue before cooking into the residue, stirring uniformly, standing and filtering to obtain an extracting solution;
a3, adding cellulase, tannase and deionized water into the extracting solution obtained in the step S2, uniformly stirring to obtain a mixed solution, wherein the mass ratio of the added cellulase to the tannase is 1:0.5, adding citric acid serving as a pH regulator to control the pH of the mixed solution to be 4.5, and extracting the mixed solution for 2 hours at the temperature of 40 ℃ and the ultrasonic power of 200W;
a4, centrifuging the extracting solution to separate solid and liquid, and filtering solid residues to obtain filtrate; leaching repeatedly for 3 times, and mixing the above filtrates to obtain radix Paeoniae extract.
The peony seed modified substance comprises separated and purified peony seed oil and peony seed protein, and the preparation method of the peony seed modified substance comprises the following steps:
b1, taking the shelled peony seeds, adding deionized water according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:1.5, adding 0.75% of pectinase by mass fraction, controlling the pH of the whole mixture to be 7.0, reacting for 1h at 50 ℃, placing the mixture in a low-temperature refrigerated centrifuge at 4 ℃ and centrifuging for 15min at the speed of 6000r/min to separate phases of the solution;
b2, taking the upper oil phase subjected to phase splitting of the solution in the step B1, heating to melt, adding immobilized lipase, setting the rotating speed of a rotary evaporator to be 80r/min, extracting vacuum, reacting at 80 ℃ for 4 hours, removing the immobilized lipase in time after the reaction is finished, washing off impurities by using alcohol, removing residual ethanol by rotary evaporation, taking polyglycerol, placing in a container, heating and stirring, mixing uniformly, adding 0.5% of esterifying enzyme, and reacting at 80 ℃ for 7 hours to obtain peony seed oil;
b3, taking the lower water phase subjected to phase separation of the solution in the step B1, dissolving the lower water phase in deionized water, adjusting the pH value to 3.9, then adding 3000U/g of alkaline protease into the solution, carrying out enzymolysis in a constant-temperature water bath kettle, continuously adding 1mol/L of NaOH solution to maintain the pH value of the enzymolysis solution constant in the reaction process, carrying out centrifugal treatment for 15min, mixing the protein precipitate obtained by centrifugation with the deionized water according to the ratio of 1:5, washing for multiple times, finally suspending the precipitate in water according to the ratio of 1:5, adjusting the pH value to 7.0, and carrying out freeze drying to obtain the peony seed protein.
Example 2
A whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 31 parts of a peony root extract, 10 parts of a peony seed modifier, 23 parts of dipropylene glycol, 17 parts of nicotinamide, 14 parts of small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, 8 parts of xanthan gum, 0.6 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.6 part of 1, 2-hexanediol and 42 parts of deionized water.
The extraction method of the peony root extract comprises the following steps:
a1, pretreatment: weighing crushed radix paeoniae alba, leaching for multiple times by using 75% ethanol solution, combining leaching liquor, drying the leaching liquor, adding deionized water to prepare a radix paeoniae alba leaching liquor with the concentration of 1mL/g, and drying the leached radix paeoniae alba dregs at 45 ℃;
a2, weighing the radix paeoniae alba residue dried in the step S1, adding deionized water into the residue according to the ratio of material to liquid of 1:15, decocting for 1.5h, filtering, adding 75% ethanol in a mass fraction of 5 times of the volume of the radix paeoniae alba residue before cooking into the residue, stirring uniformly, standing and filtering to obtain an extracting solution;
a3, adding cellulase, tannase and deionized water into the extracting solution obtained in the step S2, uniformly stirring to obtain a mixed solution, wherein the mass ratio of the added cellulase to the tannase is 1:0.8, adding citric acid serving as a pH regulator to control the pH of the mixed solution to be 6, and extracting the mixed solution for 1.5 hours at the temperature of 55 ℃ and the ultrasonic power of 400W;
a4, centrifuging the extracting solution to separate solid and liquid, and filtering solid residues to obtain filtrate; leaching for 2 times, and mixing the above filtrates to obtain radix Paeoniae extract.
The peony seed modified substance comprises separated and purified peony seed oil and peony seed protein, and the preparation method of the peony seed modified substance comprises the following steps:
b1, taking the shelled peony seeds, adding deionized water according to the ratio of material to liquid of 1:2, adding 0.75 mass percent of pectinase, controlling the pH of the whole mixture to be 9.0, reacting for 1.5h at 55 ℃, placing the mixture in a low-temperature refrigerated centrifuge at 5 ℃ and centrifuging for 20min at the speed of 5000r/min to separate phases of the solution;
b2, taking the upper oil phase subjected to phase splitting of the solution in the step B1, heating to melt, adding immobilized lipase, setting the rotating speed of a rotary evaporator to be 70r/min, extracting vacuum, reacting at 85 ℃ for 5 hours, removing the immobilized lipase in time after the reaction is finished, washing off impurities by using alcohol, removing residual ethanol by rotary evaporation, taking polyglycerol, placing in a container, heating and stirring, mixing uniformly, adding 2.5% of esterifying enzyme, and reacting at 85 ℃ for 6 hours to obtain peony seed oil;
b3, taking the lower water phase subjected to phase separation of the solution in the step B1, dissolving the lower water phase in deionized water, adjusting the pH value to 4.5, then adding 3000U/g of alkaline protease into the solution, carrying out enzymolysis in a constant-temperature water bath kettle, continuously adding 1mol/L of NaOH solution to maintain the pH value of the enzymolysis solution constant in the reaction process, carrying out centrifugal treatment for 25min, mixing the protein precipitate obtained by centrifugation with the deionized water according to the ratio of 1:8, washing for multiple times, finally suspending the precipitate in water according to the ratio of 1:8, adjusting the pH value to 7.5, and carrying out freeze drying to obtain the peony seed protein.
Example 3
A whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 32 parts of a peony root extract, 20 parts of a peony seed modifier, 28 parts of dipropylene glycol, 18 parts of nicotinamide, 15 parts of small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, 9 parts of xanthan gum, 1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol and 45 parts of deionized water.
The extraction method of the peony root extract comprises the following steps:
a1, pretreatment: weighing crushed radix paeoniae alba, leaching for multiple times by using 75% ethanol solution, combining leaching liquor, drying the leaching liquor, adding deionized water to prepare a radix paeoniae alba leaching liquor with the concentration of 1mL/g, and drying leached radix paeoniae alba dregs at 40 ℃;
a2, weighing the radix paeoniae alba residue dried in the step S1, adding deionized water into the residue according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:12, decocting for 2 hours, filtering, adding 75% ethanol with the mass fraction of 4 times of the volume of the radix paeoniae alba residue before cooking into the residue, stirring uniformly, standing and filtering to obtain an extracting solution;
a3, adding cellulase, tannase and deionized water into the extracting solution obtained in the step S2, uniformly stirring to obtain a mixed solution, wherein the mass ratio of the added cellulase to the tannase is 1:0.6, adding citric acid serving as a pH regulator to control the pH of the mixed solution to be 5, and extracting the mixed solution for 1 hour at the temperature of 50 ℃ and the ultrasonic power of 650W;
a4, centrifuging the extracting solution to separate solid and liquid, and filtering solid residues to obtain filtrate; leaching repeatedly for 3 times, and mixing the above filtrates to obtain radix Paeoniae extract.
The peony seed modified substance comprises separated and purified peony seed oil and peony seed protein, and the preparation method of the peony seed modified substance comprises the following steps:
b1, taking the shelled peony seeds, adding deionized water according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:1.8, adding 0.75% of pectinase by mass fraction, controlling the pH of the whole mixture to be 11.0, reacting for 2 hours at 52 ℃, placing in a low-temperature refrigerated centrifuge at 6 ℃ and centrifuging at 8000r/min for 18min to separate phases of the solution;
b2, taking the upper oil phase subjected to phase splitting of the solution in the step B1, heating to melt, adding immobilized lipase, setting the rotating speed of a rotary evaporator to be 90r/min, extracting vacuum, reacting at 82 ℃ for 4.5 hours, removing the immobilized lipase in time after the reaction is finished, washing off impurities by using alcohol, carrying out rotary evaporation to remove residual ethanol, taking polyglycerol, placing in a container, heating and stirring, mixing uniformly, adding 2.0% of esterifying enzyme, and reacting at 82 ℃ for 6.5 hours to obtain peony seed oil;
b3, taking the lower water phase subjected to phase separation of the solution in the step B1, dissolving the lower water phase in deionized water, adjusting the pH value to 4.0, then adding 3000U/g of alkaline protease into the solution, carrying out enzymolysis in a constant-temperature water bath kettle, continuously adding 1mol/L of NaOH solution to maintain the pH value of the enzymolysis solution constant in the reaction process, carrying out centrifugal treatment for 20min, mixing the protein precipitate obtained by centrifugation with the deionized water according to the ratio of 1:6, washing for multiple times, finally suspending the precipitate in water according to the ratio of 1:6, adjusting the pH value to 7.2, and carrying out freeze drying to obtain the peony seed protein.
Example 4
A preparation method of a whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract specifically comprises the following steps:
s1, preparing a peony root extract, a peony seed modifier, dipropylene glycol, nicotinamide, small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol according to the weight parts of the raw materials;
s2, adding dipropylene glycol and peony seed oil in the peony seed modified substance into the peony root extract, adding deionized water, and uniformly stirring to obtain a solution A;
s3, sequentially adding nicotinamide, small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, peony seed protein in the peony seed modified substance and residual deionized water into the solution A obtained after the treatment in the step S2 under the condition that the stirring speed is 250-300 r/min, and uniformly mixing to obtain the facial mask liquid.
Performance testing
Experiment of inhibiting tyrosinase by using radix Paeoniae extract
1. Materials, reagents and apparatus
Peony root extract: prepared as in example 3; l-tyrosine, tyrosinase (Sigma); 80% ethanol, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), phosphoric acid, disodium hydrogen phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, and concentrated hydrochloric acid, all of which are commercially available analytical grade, UV-visible spectrophotometer.
2. Test method
2.1 reagent preparation:
sodium phosphate buffer (1/15M, pH 6.8): 1.0010g of sodium dihydrogen phosphate and 1.1863g of disodium hydrogen phosphate are accurately weighed, a small amount of deionized water is added for dissolution, the volume is determined to be 500mL, and the mixture is stored in a refrigerator at 5 ℃ for later use;
l-tyrosine solution (7.0 mmol/L): 0.1987g of L-tyrosine is accurately weighed, a plurality of drops of concentrated hydrochloric acid are added, about 50mL of deionized water is added, after the concentrated hydrochloric acid and the deionized water are completely dissolved at 30 ℃, the pH value is adjusted to 7.0 by using a sodium hydroxide solution, and the volume is adjusted to 200mL by adding the deionized water;
test solution: accurately weighing 0.0050g of paeonol, respectively dissolving in 10mL of absolute ethanol to obtain 0.5mg/mL of solution to be detected, and diluting to 0.25mg/mL, 0.125mg/mL, 0.0625mg/mL, 0.0313mg/mL and 0.0156 mg/mL;
2.2 inhibition of tyrosinase Activity by samples
The design of the test system is shown in Table 1
Figure RE-GDA0003048391640000111
Figure RE-GDA0003048391640000121
Note: when the absorbance is measured by a spectrophotometer, the test solution, the standard control and the positive control are respectively zeroed by the negative control 1, the negative control 2 and the negative control 3.
During the experiment, phosphate buffer solution, test solutions (including positive control) with different concentration gradients and tyrosinase solution are sequentially added into a test tube, and the test solution is subjected to water bath at 35 ℃ for 15 min; then adding a substrate L-tyrosine, and immediately starting timing; measuring the light absorption value under the wavelength of 274nm when the reaction is carried out for 20 min; during the determination, the corresponding negative control is taken as a reference, the inhibition rate of the test solution (including the positive control) on the tyrosinase is calculated by the following formula, and the approximate value of the half inhibition concentration (IC50) is estimated according to a concentration-enzyme inhibition rate curve;
inhibition rate (A-B)/A100%
Wherein "A" is the absorbance of the standard control and "B" is the absorbance of the test solution (or positive control). Each experiment was done in 3 replicates; the high inhibition rate indicates that the inhibition intensity of the compound on tyrosinase activity is high.
3. Test results
As shown in FIG. 1, in the experimental concentration range, the tyrosinase activity is reduced along with the increase of the concentration, and the inhibition rate of the peony root extract on tyrosinase is increased, and the inhibition rate is expressed as dose-dependent inhibition. Therefore, the peony root extract can be used as a novel plant source whitening agent and is added into facial mask liquid. .
Test for moisture retention
1. Detection method
(1) Volunteer requirements and test conditions: selecting 30 volunteers with age of 18-35 years, which are healthy and have no skin disease history and cosmetic allergy history according to the voluntary principle;
(2) the facial mask solution prepared according to this example 1 was tested by volunteers after washing their front face with warm water before testing, test environment: the temperature is 20-22 ℃, and the relative humidity is 40-60%;
(3) the facial mask solutions prepared according to example 1 were tested for more than 1 month and were also given two indicators of skin moisture and transdermal moisture loss every week;
2. the result of the detection
Figure RE-GDA0003048391640000131
The larger the skin moisture content is, the more obvious the moisturizing effect is; the higher the TEWL value, the more water is lost through the skin, the poorer the barrier function of the stratum corneum; from the above table, the present invention has a good water-holding ability and a continuous water-locking effect.
The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes, which are made by the present specification, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (6)

1. The whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing the peony root extract is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 30-32 parts of a peony root extract, 5-20 parts of a peony seed modifier, 22-28 parts of dipropylene glycol, 16-18 parts of nicotinamide, 13-15 parts of small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, 7-9 parts of xanthan gum, 0.5-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5-1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol and 40-45 parts of deionized water.
2. The whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the extraction method of the peony root extract comprises the following steps:
a1, pretreatment: weighing crushed radix paeoniae alba, leaching for multiple times by using 75% ethanol solution, combining leaching liquor, drying the leaching liquor, adding deionized water to prepare a radix paeoniae alba leaching liquor with the concentration of 1mL/g, and drying the leached radix paeoniae alba dregs at 30-45 ℃;
a2, weighing the radix paeoniae alba residue dried in the step S1, adding deionized water into the residue according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:10-15, decocting for 1-2h, filtering, adding 75% ethanol with the mass fraction of 3-5 times of the volume of the radix paeoniae alba residue before cooking into the residue, stirring uniformly, standing and filtering to obtain an extracting solution;
a3, adding cellulase, tannase and deionized water into the extracting solution obtained in the step S2, uniformly stirring to obtain a mixed solution, simultaneously adding a pH regulator to control the pH of the mixed solution to be 4.5-6, and extracting the mixed solution for 1-2 hours under the conditions that the temperature is 40-55 ℃ and the ultrasonic power is 200-650W;
a4, centrifuging the extracting solution to separate solid and liquid, and filtering solid residues to obtain filtrate; leaching repeatedly for 2-3 times, and mixing the above filtrates to obtain radix Paeoniae extract.
3. The whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing the peony root extract as claimed in claim 2, wherein: the pH regulator of step S3 is citric acid.
4. The whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing the peony root extract as claimed in claim 2, wherein: the mass ratio of the cellulase to the tannase added in the step S3 is 1: 0.5-0.8.
5. The whitening and moisturizing mask liquid containing a peony root extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the peony seed modified substance comprises separated and purified peony seed oil and peony seed protein, and the preparation method of the peony seed modified substance comprises the following steps:
b1, taking the shelled peony seeds, adding deionized water according to the material-liquid ratio of 1:1.5-2, adding 0.75% of pectinase by mass fraction, controlling the pH of the whole mixture to be 7.0-11.0, reacting for 1-2h at 50-55 ℃, placing the mixture in a low-temperature refrigerated centrifuge at 4-6 ℃ and centrifuging for 15-20min at the speed of 5000-;
b2, taking the upper oil phase subjected to phase splitting of the solution in the step B1, heating to melt, adding immobilized lipase, setting the rotating speed of a rotary evaporator to be 70-90r/min, extracting vacuum, reacting at 80-85 ℃ for 4-5h, removing the immobilized lipase in time after the reaction is finished, washing off impurities by using alcohol, removing residual ethanol by rotary evaporation, putting polyglycerol into a container, heating and stirring, uniformly mixing, adding 0.5-2.5% of esterifying enzyme, and reacting at 80-85 ℃ for 6-7h to obtain peony seed oil;
and B3, taking the lower-layer water phase subjected to phase separation of the solution in the step B1, dissolving the lower-layer water phase in deionized water, adjusting the pH value to 3.9-4.5, then adding 3000U/g of alkaline protease into the solution, carrying out enzymolysis in a constant-temperature water bath kettle, continuously adding 1mol/L of NaOH solution to maintain the pH value of the enzymolysis solution constant in the reaction process, carrying out centrifugal treatment for 15-25min, mixing the protein precipitate obtained by centrifugation with the deionized water according to the ratio of 1:5-8, washing with water for multiple times, finally suspending the precipitate in water according to the ratio of 1:5-8, adjusting the pH value to 7.0-7.5, and carrying out freeze drying to obtain the peony seed protein.
6. The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing mask solution containing the peony root extract as claimed in claim 5, specifically comprising the following steps:
s1, preparing a peony root extract, a peony seed modifier, dipropylene glycol, nicotinamide, small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol according to the weight parts of the raw materials;
s2, adding dipropylene glycol and peony seed oil in the peony seed modified substance into the peony root extract, adding deionized water, and uniformly stirring to obtain a solution A;
s3, sequentially adding nicotinamide, small-molecule sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, peony seed protein in the peony seed modified substance and residual deionized water into the solution A obtained after the treatment in the step S2 under the condition that the stirring speed is 250-300 r/min, and uniformly mixing to obtain the facial mask liquid.
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