CN112639191A

CN112639191A - Cloth and suit containing synthetic fiber

Info

Publication number: CN112639191A
Application number: CN201980055951.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 糸井徹
Original assignee: Itoi Institute Of Life And Culture
Current assignee: Itoi Institute Of Life And Culture; Itoi LSR Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-08-24
Filing date: 2019-08-23
Publication date: 2021-04-09
Also published as: JP6581703B1; JP2020029638A; US20210189608A1; WO2020040303A1

Abstract

The fabric containing synthetic fibers of the present invention is a textile fabric made of a blended yarn obtained by blending 3 or more kinds of fibers including wool, polyester fibers and polyacrylonitrile fibers, or a textile fabric mainly containing the blended yarn, wherein the 3 or more kinds of fibers are mixed so as to be substantially uniformly distributed at a predetermined mixing ratio in the longitudinal direction of the blended yarn, the total content of the wool, the polyester fibers and the polyacrylonitrile fibers in the blended yarn is 90 mass% or more and 100 mass% or less, the fineness of the polyacrylonitrile fibers is 0.5dtex or more and 1.4dtex or less, and the fabric containing synthetic fibers has a texture comparable to a product containing 100 mass% of wool, and has the following effects: even if the fabric is wetted with water or washed with a household washing machine, wrinkles are not easily generated after drying, and the elasticity and the tensile force are not easily deteriorated even if the fabric is subjected to steam treatment.

Description

Cloth and suit containing synthetic fiber

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a synthetic fiber-containing fabric (hereinafter also referred to as a "synthetic fiber-containing fabric") and a suit using the synthetic fiber-containing fabric as a suit clothing material.

Background

The suit cloth with 100 mass percent of wool (wool) has good hand feeling, layered apparent color, good quality feeling, smooth appearance of the cloth, and stereoscopic impression and layered feeling. Therefore, men's suit dress material or women's suit dress material including 100 mass% of wool is recognized as a high-grade product having a high commodity value. The business suit made of the hard twisted yarn using the fine wool further has a high-grade feeling, and is considered to have a higher commercial value.

In general, good hand as a men's suit or the like means having good drapability, good rebound resilience, and a unique touch. Drapability is the property of a suit to smoothly encase it along the object, body shape, being enclosed. The resiliency is a property that when the palm of the hand is gently grasped to wrap the cloth and then released by opening the hand, the cloth returns to its original shape so as to frail. The unique touch is a pleasant touch with a slippery feel characteristic of wool and without stickiness and dryness. As described above, the western-style clothes containing 100 mass% of wool is considered to have a high commercial value because it has a high level of feeling and color.

When the suit is worn, the suit receives an external force so as to deform, such as tensile deformation or shear deformation, in addition to bending deformation. Good drapability is obtained by providing the suit material with a moderate initial bending hardness, and the suit material has a low initial tensile hardness (equivalent to young's modulus) and low initial shear hardness. Further, good resilience is obtained by subjecting the suit to good elastic recovery from each of the initial bending deformation, the initial tensile deformation, and the initial shear deformation. For example, if a suit material having the same bending stiffness is compared with paper, this can be understood more.

On the other hand, the western-style clothes containing 100 mass% wool have a problem that wrinkles are easily generated when the clothes are left to stand in a state of being wetted with water and dried, or when the clothes are washed and dried by a household washing machine. Further, wool as a raw material is expensive compared to synthetic fiber, and therefore, a suit material containing 100 mass% of wool is expensive. Therefore, attempts have been made to manufacture men's suits and the like using a blended yarn in which wool and synthetic fibers are blended. The blended spinning (mix spinning) refers to spinning (spinning) of fibers of different types of raw materials. Blended yarn (blended yarn) refers to a yarn of different fibers that are mixed and spun. The use of the blended yarn is often used to solve problems associated with washability and wrinkles generated after wetting.

Documents of the prior art

Patent document

Patent document 1: japanese Kokai publication Sho 59-137930

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

However, since synthetic fibers are mixed in the blended yarn in the western-style clothes made of the conventional blended yarn, there is a problem that the feeling having a high-grade feeling peculiar to the western-style clothes containing 100 mass% of wool is impaired. In a case of a suit fabric made of a blended yarn of wool and polyester fibers blended with synthetic fibers, the rebound resilience is often poor. In a suit made of a mixed synthetic fiber composed of a blended yarn of wool and polyacrylonitrile-based fiber (including polyacrylonitrile fiber and modacrylic fiber), since the polyacrylonitrile-based fiber is easily plastically deformed by heat and external force, elasticity and tensile force of the suit are easily deteriorated by a finishing (finish) process during manufacture and washing in a home washing machine. The western-style clothes made of the hard twisted yarn using the fine wool has a problem that the size and the surface appearance are changed due to water wetting and high humidity (for example, due to steam, ironing, and the like at the time of sewing).

Patent document 1 describes a synthetic fiber blended suit made of a blended yarn of wool, polyester fiber and polyacrylonitrile fiber, but does not mention or suggest the possibility that a feeling having a high-grade feeling peculiar to a suit made of 100 mass% wool can be obtained by using the blended yarn.

In view of the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a synthetic fiber-containing fabric having a high-grade texture comparable to that of a product containing 100% by mass of wool, which is less likely to cause wrinkles after drying even when wetted with water or washed with a household washing machine, and which is less likely to deteriorate in elasticity and tensile force even when subjected to steam treatment, and a business suit using the fabric as a business suit material.

Means for solving the problems

In order to solve the above problems, a fabric containing synthetic fibers according to the present invention is a textile fabric made of a blended yarn obtained by blending 3 or more kinds of fibers including wool, polyester fiber and polyacrylonitrile fiber (modacrylic fiber) or a textile fabric mainly including the blended yarn, wherein the 3 or more kinds of fibers are mixed so as to be substantially uniformly distributed at a predetermined mixing ratio in a longitudinal direction of the blended yarn, a total content of the wool, the polyester fiber and the polyacrylonitrile fiber in the blended yarn is 90 mass% or more and 100 mass% or less, and a fineness of the polyacrylonitrile fiber is 0.5dtex or more and 1.4dtex or less.

In the blended yarn in the synthetic fiber-containing fabric according to the present invention, the wool content may be 30 mass% or more and 70 mass% or less, the polyester fiber content may be 20 mass% or more and 50 mass% or less, and the polyacrylonitrile fiber content may be 10 mass% or more and 30 mass% or less.

In the cloth containing the synthetic fibers, the blended yarn can be a double-stranded yarn, and the metric count of the blended yarn can be 2/36-2/140.

Alternatively, in the synthetic fiber-containing fabric according to the present invention, the blended yarn may be a double yarn, the blended yarn may have a metric count of 2/36 to 2/140, a first twist multiplier (defined as T/√ N, T: first twist count, N: metric count) of 80 or more and 120 or less, a final twist count of 80% or more and 130% or less of the first twist count, and a final twist direction of the blended yarn may be the same as the first twist direction.

The suit of the invention comprises a cloth, wherein the cloth is made of the cloth containing the synthetic fibers or contains the cloth containing the synthetic fibers.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

According to the fabric containing synthetic fibers of the present invention, since the fabric is produced by using the blended yarn of 3 or more kinds of fibers including wool, polyester fibers and polyacrylonitrile fibers having an extremely fine fineness of 0.5dtex or more and 1.4dtex or less, a fabric having a high-grade feel comparable to a product having 100 mass% of wool can be provided. Since the synthetic fiber-containing fabric uses polyester fibers and polyacrylonitrile fibers in addition to wool, wrinkles are less likely to occur after drying even when the fabric is wetted with water or washed with a household washing machine. The synthetic fiber-containing fabric is a woven fabric obtained by using a blended yarn obtained by blending a polyester fiber and a (micro) polyacrylonitrile fiber having an extremely fine fineness, and therefore, has excellent resilience. Since the polyacrylonitrile-based fiber which is easily plastically deformed by heat or external force is made of an extremely fine fiber, the elasticity and tension of the synthetic fiber-containing fabric are hardly affected even by heat or external force.

That is, according to the cloth containing synthetic fibers of the present invention, realization of high added value concerning emotion such as touch and color gradation peculiar to the woolen suit and stabilization of functionality (physical property) can be achieved at the same time (wrinkles are not easily generated after drying even if wet with water or washed with a home washing machine). Further, since ordinary wool can be used without using fine wool, the production cost can be reduced, and a fabric having a high-quality feeling can be provided at low cost.

Drawings

Fig. 1 shows a weave diagram of an example of a woven fabric used as a synthetic fiber-containing fabric according to the present invention.

Detailed Description

< synthetic fiber-containing Fabric >

The synthetic fiber-containing fabric (hereinafter also referred to as "the present fabric") of the present invention is a textile fabric made of a blended yarn of 3 or more kinds of fibers including wool, polyester fiber and polyacrylonitrile fiber, or a textile fabric mainly including the blended yarn. The cloth is mainly used for manufacturing western-style clothes and the like. In the present fabric, "mainly contained" means that the content of the blended yarn in the present fabric is 70 mass% or more. With respect to the present fabric or blended yarn, "content" means a total content when, for example, the blended yarn contains 2 or more kinds of polyester fibers or the like. The content value described in the present specification corresponds to a value obtained by adding a compound represented by the general formula (I) according to JIS L1030-2: 2012. The fineness described herein is an average fineness when measured values thereof vary. The number of twists in the present specification means the number of twists per 1m unless otherwise specified.

Examples of the polyester fiber used in the present fabric include polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, and copolyester fiber.

As the polyacrylonitrile-based fiber used in the present fabric, a general polyacrylonitrile-based fiber containing polyacrylonitrile can be exemplified. Alternatively, the polyacrylonitrile-based fiber may be, for example, a copolymer of acrylonitrile with vinyl chloride or vinylidene chloride. In the copolymer polymer, the mass of the acrylonitrile-derived structural unit is, for example, 35 mass% or more and 85 mass% or less. The polyacrylonitrile fiber used in the present fabric is a polyacrylonitrile fiber (hereinafter referred to as "ultrafine AC fiber") having a fineness of 0.5dtex or more and 1.4dtex or less. If the fineness of the polyacrylonitrile-based fiber is less than 0.5dtex, the fiber diameter is too small, and therefore, a trouble is likely to occur in the spinning step in the production process. If the fineness of the polyacrylonitrile fiber is larger than 1.4dtex, the fiber diameter of the polyacrylonitrile fiber becomes too large, and it is difficult to obtain good elastic recovery when the suit material is recovered from deformation such as bending deformation, and a fabric having good hand feeling cannot be obtained.

With the above-described structure of the fabric, a suit having a good texture can be obtained as a suit for men or a suit for women, for example. The reason why a good hand can be obtained in the present fabric made of a blended yarn (hereinafter, also referred to as "present blended yarn") obtained by blending 3 or more kinds of fibers including wool, polyester fiber and ultrafine AC fiber or mainly composed of the present blended yarn is not determined, but it is presumed that the present fabric can be obtained as follows.

The polyester fiber is a fiber having good elastic recovery from bending deformation when 1 fiber is present alone. In general, in a fabric produced by blending a blend yarn of wool and polyester fiber, although the elasticity of the fabric is improved and the fabric can be washed with a household washing machine, the fabric has poor rebound resilience (elastic recovery from deformation such as bending deformation) as compared with a fabric containing 100 mass% of wool. The reason for this is considered to be: the cloth is not 1 fiber alone but an aggregate of fibers, and when the cloth recovers from deformation such as bending deformation, friction between the polyester fibers is large, and elastic recovery of the cloth from deformation such as bending deformation is hindered. In contrast, it can be considered that: in the present fabric, since the ultrafine AC fibers are interposed between the polyester fibers mixed in the present blended yarn, the friction between the polyester fibers is reduced by the ultrafine AC fibers. It can therefore be considered that: in the fabric, elastic recovery from deformation such as bending deformation is hardly hindered, and good elastic recovery can be obtained when recovery from deformation such as bending deformation is performed.

Further, it can be considered that: in general, when a fabric containing 100 mass% of wool is manufactured, the wool swells and becomes thicker in diameter during finishing, and when the wool is dried in a drying step thereafter, the arrangement of fibers does not change, the fiber diameter becomes smaller, and gaps are formed between fibers. Therefore, it can be presumed that: in the fabric containing 100 mass% of wool, when the fabric recovers from deformation such as bending deformation, friction between wool fibers is reduced, and thus the degree of resistance to elastic recovery from deformation such as bending deformation is reduced. Here, it can be presumed that: the ultrafine AC fibers mixed in the present blended yarn in the present fabric play the same role as the gaps between the fibers in a fabric of 100 mass% wool. On the other hand, when the fineness of the polyacrylonitrile-based fiber is larger than 1.4dtex, it may be difficult to exhibit the function of reducing the friction between the polyester fibers, and it may be difficult to obtain good elastic recovery when the fabric recovers from deformation such as bending deformation. That is, the inventors of the present application propose the following assumptions: even in a woven fabric containing synthetic fibers like this fabric, by using the present blended yarn in which the ultrafine AC fibers are mixed, it is possible to exert an action similar to the formation of the gap by swelling and drying as described above with respect to a fabric of 100 mass% wool.

The inventors of the present invention have tried to produce a present blended yarn in which wool, an extremely fine AC fiber, and a polyester fiber excellent in elastic recovery when used as a raw material are mixed at an appropriate mixing ratio based on the above assumptions, and have completed the present invention. By mixing the polyester fiber in the blended yarn, the problem that obvious wrinkles are generated when the suit clothing material of the cloth is wetted by rain and the like and then dried is solved, and the suit clothing material can be washed by a household washing machine. According to the present invention, even if expensive fine wool is not used, ordinary wool can be used, and realization of high added value concerning emotionality such as feeling and gradation of color peculiar to the suit wear of 100 mass% wool and stabilization of functionality (physical properties) (washing resistance and wrinkle resistance) can be simultaneously achieved, which contributes to reduction of raw material cost.

The inventors of the present application have conducted intensive studies repeatedly using the present blended yarn, and as a result, have found that: from the viewpoint of achieving the high added value property, it is preferable to use a present blended yarn subjected to a higher twist than in the conventional art in the present fabric, and it is more preferable to use a twin-yarn (two ply yarn) subjected to a final twist (final twist) in the same direction as the direction of the first twist (primary twist) as the present blended yarn subjected to the higher twist (high twist). The suit fabric made of the hard twisted yarn using the fine wool has a problem that the size and the surface appearance are changed due to high humidity (for example, steam, ironing, and the like at the time of sewing). Further, in the case of the suit clothing material containing 100 mass% of wool, since the heavy twisted yarn is used, appropriate smooth feeling and dry feeling can be both achieved to some extent, but the uneven feeling of pimples cannot be avoided on the surface of the suit clothing material. In contrast, the fabric of the present invention using the heavily twisted blended yarn as described above can achieve both a proper smooth feeling and a proper dry feeling, and can provide a good texture that the surface of the fabric does not feel the uneven feeling of pimples.

Since the ultrafine AC fibers are ultrafine and have low bending rigidity, they contribute little to the bending rigidity of the entire fabric. Therefore, even if the ultrafine AC fibers are deformed in the finishing step in the production of the fabric or in the washing of the fabric, the influence on the bending hardness and the rebound resilience of the entire fabric is small. For this reason, since the fabric is a woven fabric (woven fabric) rather than a knitted fabric (knitted fabric), it is easy to maintain good rebound resilience and tensile force.

When the content of the present blended yarn in the present fabric is 70 mass% or more and less than 100 mass%, the present fabric may be a woven fabric including the present blended yarn and other yarns in the range of more than 0 mass% and 30 mass% or less, as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. Examples of the fibers constituting the other yarn include synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, animal fibers, and plant fibers. Examples of the synthetic fibers include polyamide fibers such as nylon fibers, polyolefin fibers such as polypropylene fibers, and polyethylene fibers. Examples of the regenerated fibers include rayon and the like. Examples of the animal fibers include wool, animal hair, and silk. Examples of the plant fiber include cotton fiber and hemp fiber. The other yarn may be, for example, a filament yarn made of 1 or more kinds of fibers selected from the group consisting of synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, and silk, or may be other blended yarn in which 2 or more kinds of fibers selected from the fibers exemplified herein are blended without being mixed with the ultra fine AC fibers.

The content of the present blended yarn in the present fabric is preferably 90 mass% or more, more preferably 95 mass% or more, and even more preferably 100 mass% from the viewpoint of having a high-grade feel comparable to 100 mass% of wool and further being less likely to cause wrinkles after washing and drying.

When the wool content in the present blended yarn is too low, it takes a lot of time and labor to explore process conditions for finishing and the like for obtaining a good hand. From the viewpoint of avoiding this, the content of wool in the present blended yarn is preferably 30% by mass or more. The wool content in the present blended yarn is preferably 70 mass% or less, more preferably 50 mass% or less, from the viewpoint of the fabric resistance to washing and the resistance to moisture when wet or the like. Since the raw material cost of the present fabric can be reduced as the wool content in the present blended yarn is reduced, the wool content in the present blended yarn is more preferably 30 mass% or more and 50 mass% or less from the viewpoint of achieving both the reduction in raw material cost and the realization of the texture unique to a western-style clothes material containing 100 mass% of wool.

The content of the polyester fiber in the present blended yarn is preferably 20 mass% or more from the viewpoint of imparting sufficient wrinkle resistance to the present fabric, and is preferably 50 mass% or less from the viewpoint of imparting sufficient rebound resilience to the present fabric. The content of the ultrafine AC fibers in the present blended yarn is preferably 10 mass% or more in view of easily improving the rebound resilience of the present fabric, and is preferably 30 mass% or less in view of easily imparting an appropriate elastic force to the present fabric. As described above, in the present blended yarn, from the viewpoints that the fabric easily realizes a feeling peculiar to a western-style clothes material of 100 mass% wool, reduces the raw material cost, improves the rebound resilience, and easily imparts an appropriate elastic force, it is more preferable that: the content of wool is 30 to 70 mass%, the content of polyester fiber is 20 to 50 mass%, and the content of ultra-fine AC fiber is 10 to 30 mass%.

The fineness of the polyester fiber in the present blended yarn is preferably 1.6dtex or more in view of imparting sufficient rigidity to the fabric as a suit coat, and is preferably 3.3dtex or less in view of avoiding excessive hardness as a suit coat. In other words, the fineness of the polyester fiber in the present blended yarn is more preferably 1.6dtex or more and 3.3dtex or less from the viewpoint of imparting appropriate hardness (elasticity) to the suit clothing.

Both the polyester fiber and the polyacrylonitrile fiber in the blended yarn can be composite fiber. By forming the composite fiber, a property of being easily compatible with the characteristics of wool can be imparted.

In the present blended yarn, other fibers may be blended together with wool, polyester fibers and extra fine AC fibers as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired, and in this case, the content of the other fibers in the present blended yarn is 10 mass% or less. For example, the present blended yarn is preferably: the content of wool is 30 mass% or more and less than 70 mass%, the content of polyester fiber is 20 mass% or more and 50 mass% or less, the content of ultra-fine AC fiber is 10 mass% or more and 30 mass% or less, and the content of other fibers is more than 0 mass% and 10 mass% or less. Examples of the other fibers include synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, semisynthetic fibers, animal fibers other than wool, and plant fibers. As described above, the present blended yarn in which other fibers are mixed may be used for the present fabric.

In the present fabric, from the viewpoint of achieving a high-grade feel comparable to a product with 100 mass% wool, 3 or more kinds of fibers (wool, polyester fibers, extra fine AC fibers, and other fibers as needed) are blended so as to be substantially uniformly distributed at a predetermined mixing ratio in the longitudinal direction of the present blended yarn, thereby producing the present blended yarn. If blending is performed by a conventional method without performing an operation of significantly changing the blending ratio during blending, 3 or more kinds of fibers are blended so as to be substantially uniformly distributed at a predetermined blending ratio in the longitudinal direction of the present blended yarn. Even when blended by a conventional method, the resulting present blended yarn may be subjectively slightly unmixed. With respect to the present blended yarn, "substantially uniform" means: even if slight mixing unevenness occurs, it is acceptable without departing from the content and essence of the present invention. For example, when a blended yarn is obtained by blending 3 or more kinds of fibers having different colors by a conventional method, if the overall appearance of the blended yarn is simply observed with the naked eye in a short time and "a change in color tone is not conspicuously generated in the longitudinal direction of the blended yarn" as seen by general consumers through objective visual angles, the 3 or more kinds of fibers are mixed so as to be substantially uniformly distributed in the longitudinal direction of the blended yarn at a predetermined mixing ratio. Even when 3 or more kinds of fibers having substantially the same color are blended to obtain a blended yarn, the blended yarn may be blended by a conventional method. In addition, the present blended yarn is used to make spun yarns for weaving textiles. From the viewpoint of ease of spinning, it is preferable to select the average number of fibers in the section of the spun yarn (single yarn) to be 30 or more.

When the number of twists in the present blended yarn (single yarn) is denoted by T (unit "T/m") and the metric count is denoted by N, the twist multiplier is defined by T/√ N. From the viewpoint of easily imparting strength to the single yarn and easily imparting sufficient elasticity to the present fabric, the present blended yarn (single yarn) is preferably twisted so that the twist factor becomes 80 or more. In addition, from the viewpoint of avoiding the rough surface of the present fabric and deterioration of hand, it is preferable that the present blended yarn (single yarn) is twisted so that the twist factor is 120 or less. The twist direction of the single yarn may be either Z twist or S twist.

The single yarns are preferably combined into 2 and further twisted. From the viewpoint of satisfying the sensory high-grade feeling of thin business suit material by the cloth material, the count mark (metric count) of the obtained blended yarn (twin yarn) is preferably 2/36 to 2/140, more preferably 2/70 to 2/100 (here, 2 represents a twin yarn). Yarns having a finer count than the above tend to be extremely expensive due to the restrictions on wool materials and the like. In the present blended yarn (double yarn), if the yarn is within the range of the count marks, the yarn may be obtained by combining 2 single yarns having different count marks and twisting the combined yarns.

From the viewpoint of easy feeling of dryness on the surface of the present fabric, the final twist direction of the present blended yarn (twin yarn) is preferably the same as the primary twist direction (Z-Z twist or S-S twist). In this case, the final twist number is preferably 80% or more of the initial twist number. When the final twist number is less than 80% of the initial twist number, the apparent color may have insufficient three-dimensional appearance and gradation. On the other hand, the final twist number is preferably 130% or less of the initial twist number from the viewpoint of avoiding the surface roughness of the cloth from becoming conspicuous, pimples, and losing a moderate smooth feeling. For the present blended yarn (doubled yarn) when 2 single yarns with different count marks are combined and twisted, the average value of the number of twists of the single yarns is regarded as the number of first twists of the blended yarn (doubled yarn). In the above-described twist structure, when the first twist direction is different from the final twist direction, the twist (first twist) of the single yarn is loosened by the final twist, and the tightness of the yarn is weakened. If the first twist direction is the same as the final twist direction, the yarn is stronger than in the single yarn state. The invention discovers that: this tightness in the bifilar construction is preferred in combination with the bifilar construction in achieving a dry, good hand.

In the present fabric, by using the present blended yarn when the twist number is set in the above range and subjected to heavy twisting, a more excellent textile fabric having a feeling and color gradation peculiar to wool business suit fabric, which is dry and comfortable without a sticky feeling and has an appropriate smooth feeling, can be obtained. It is believed that this color gradation is obtained by the aforementioned heavy twisting and the use of extremely fine AC fibers. In addition, the fabric hardly has the problem of dimensional and surface appearance changes caused by moisture and high humidity (for example, steam, ironing, etc. during sewing).

The present fabric is preferably a woven fabric woven using the present blended yarn (doubled yarn) that has been subjected to the over-twisting in the aforementioned manner. The texture of the textile may be selected from the group consisting of tri-primitive textures and modified textures thereof. That is, the weave structure is selected from the group consisting of plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, which are common weave structures, and is selected from any modified weave structure in order to obtain an appropriate weave structure depending on the use of the final product (e.g., a suit). The cloth cover coefficient K of the woven cloth is expressed by the following mathematical expression. In the present fabric, the cover coverage coefficient K represented by the following numerical expression is preferably 6 or more and 13 or less from the viewpoint of easy application of appropriate hardness (elasticity) to the suit fabric and excellent weaving properties.

[ mathematical formula 1]

K＝(K₁+K₂)/2

K₁: weaving density of warp yarn (root/2.54 cm)/. mu.l metric count of warp yarn (reciprocal of linear density of yarn (g/m))

K₂: weaving density of weft (root/2.54 cm)/[ square ] metric count of weft (reciprocal of linear density of yarn (g/m))

The cloth is preferably used as a suit coat for men or a suit coat for women, from the viewpoint of having a superior feeling comparable to that of a 100% wool product, despite suppressing the raw material cost lower than that of a 100% wool suit coat. From the viewpoint of having a dry touch, the fabric is preferably used mainly as a suit material for western-style clothes used in spring and summer.

< business suit >

The suit of the invention is obtained by using the cloth. That is, the suit according to the present invention is a suit including the synthetic fiber-containing fabric according to the present invention. Western style clothes are western style clothes (dresses). Examples of the suit include a jacket, trousers, a skirt, a dress coat, a suit coat, a uniform, and a coat.

In addition, the present invention may be implemented in various forms of modification, amendment or variation based on the knowledge of those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit thereof. In addition, any of the matters specified in the present invention may be replaced with other technical matters within the scope of producing the same action or effect.

Examples

< spinning step >

In example 1, example 2 and comparative example 1 described below, a yarn spinning step was performed in the following manner to produce a blended yarn (twin yarn). As for wool and polyester fibers, dyed tops manufactured by a conventional method are used, respectively. As the extra fine AC fiber, a dyed sliver obtained by forming a tow into a sliver with a slivering machine and then forming a sliver and dyeing the sliver was used. Then, these 3 kinds of dyed tops were blended (after mixing, worsted by a normal card spinning process) to obtain a blended yarn (single yarn), and 2 pieces of this blended yarn (single yarn) were combined and twisted to obtain a blended yarn (double yarn). The spinning process described here is based on a conventional method, and therefore, a detailed description thereof is omitted.

< example 1>

As wool, a material having a fiber diameter of 18.5 μm order was prepared. As the polyester fiber, a polyethylene terephthalate bundle having a fineness of 2.2dtex was prepared. As the ultrafine AC fibers, polyacrylonitrile fiber tow having a fineness of 1.1dtex was prepared. These fibers were used as raw materials, and blended at a blending ratio of 35 mass% wool, 40 mass% polyester and 25 mass% extra fine AC fiber in the spinning step to obtain a blended yarn (single yarn) having a metric number of 1/80 and a twist number Z of 1000T/m. 2 of these single yarns were combined, and further twisted 1100 times per 1m in Z twist (final twist number Z was 1100T/m), to obtain a blended yarn (doubled yarn). The blended yarn (doubled yarn) was woven according to the weave shown in fig. 1, and a textile finishing process was performed by a conventional method to obtain the fabric described in example 1. In the cloth described in example 1, the basis weight was 211g/m²The warp density was 91 pieces/2.54 cm, and the weft density was 77 pieces/2.54 cm.

< example 2>

A blended yarn (single yarn) having a metric count of 1/80 (initial twist number S of 1000T/m) was obtained by the same raw materials and blend ratio (the same content of each fiber in the blended yarn) as in example 1. 2 of the blended yarns (single yarns) were combined and twisted 1100 times per 1m in S twist (final twist number S1100T/m). Using the obtained blended yarn (twin yarn), a fabric was woven in the same manner as in example 1, thereby obtaining a fabric described in example 2.

The fabrics obtained in examples 1 and 2 each had good resilience and a good hand feeling equivalent to that of a suit fabric containing 100 mass% wool. Further, these fabrics have a characteristic smooth feeling on the surface and a non-sticky and dry comfortable feeling like a characteristic feeling of a suit cloth containing 100 mass% wool, and have a color gradation equivalent to a characteristic color gradation of a suit cloth containing 100 mass% wool. Therefore, the cloth obtained by each of examples 1 and 2 is suitable as a suit for men or women for spring and summer. These fabrics do not cause problems due to changes in size and surface appearance caused by steam and ironing during sewing.

< comparative example 1>

The same wool and polyester fibers as in example 1 were used, but a polyacrylonitrile fiber tow having a fineness of 2.2dtex was used instead of the ultrafine AC fiber tow in example 1. These fibers were blended at the same ratio as in example 1 to obtain a yarn number and a twisted yarn pair as in example 1. Using the doubled yarn, weaving was performed as in example 1 to obtain a fabric as described in comparative example 1.

The fabric of comparative example 1 was inferior to those of examples 1 and 2 in resilience. Further, the cloth described in comparative example 1 could not obtain the feeling peculiar to the western-style clothes with 100 mass% of wool, the peculiar smoothness, and the comfortable feeling free from stickiness and dryness. The cloth of comparative example 1 also failed to obtain a color tone equivalent to that peculiar to the suit cloth containing 100 mass% of wool. The present inventors have found the usefulness of the present blended yarn in which an extremely fine AC fiber is blended as a polyacrylonitrile-based fiber based on the results of these experiments.

Industrial applicability

The cloth is not limited to use as a raw material for business suits, but may be used as a raw material for high-value-added fashion clothing using high-grade business suit clothing.

Claims

1. A fabric comprising synthetic fibers, characterized in that it is a woven fabric made of a blended yarn obtained by blending 3 or more types of fibers, or a woven fabric mainly comprising the blended yarn, wherein the 3 or more types of fibers comprise wool, polyester fibers and polyacrylonitrile fibers,

in the blended yarn, the 3 or more types of fibers are mixed so as to be substantially uniformly distributed at a predetermined mixing ratio in the longitudinal direction, the total content of the wool, the polyester fiber and the polyacrylonitrile fiber in the blended yarn is 90 to 100 mass%,

the fineness of the polyacrylonitrile fiber is more than 0.5dtex and less than 1.4 dtex.

2. The synthetic fiber-containing fabric material according to claim 1, wherein the blended yarn contains 30 to 70 mass% of the wool, 20 to 50 mass% of the polyester fiber, and 10 to 30 mass% of the polyacrylonitrile fiber.

3. The synthetic fiber-containing fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the blended yarn is a twin yarn, and the metric count of the blended yarn is 2/36 to 2/140.

4. The synthetic fiber-containing fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the blended yarn is a double-stranded yarn, the blended yarn has a metric count of 2/36 to 2/140, a first twist multiplier of 80 or more and 120 or less, the first twist multiplier being defined by T/√ N, T being the number of first twists and N being the metric count,

the blended yarn has a final twist number of 80% to 130% of the initial twist number, and the final twist direction of the blended yarn is the same as the initial twist direction.

5. A suit, which is characterized by comprising cloth,

the fabric is made of the fabric containing the synthetic fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 4, or contains the fabric containing the synthetic fiber.