JP6581703B1 - Synthetic blended fabric and clothes - Google Patents

Synthetic blended fabric and clothes Download PDF

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JP6581703B1
JP6581703B1 JP2018157838A JP2018157838A JP6581703B1 JP 6581703 B1 JP6581703 B1 JP 6581703B1 JP 2018157838 A JP2018157838 A JP 2018157838A JP 2018157838 A JP2018157838 A JP 2018157838A JP 6581703 B1 JP6581703 B1 JP 6581703B1
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fabric
yarn
fiber
wool
blended yarn
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JP2020029638A (en
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徹 糸井
徹 糸井
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Itoi LSR Co Ltd
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Itoi LSR Co Ltd
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Priority to JP2018157838A priority Critical patent/JP6581703B1/en
Priority to CN201980055951.XA priority patent/CN112639191A/en
Priority to PCT/JP2019/033105 priority patent/WO2020040303A1/en
Priority to US17/270,392 priority patent/US20210189608A1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/08Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids or unsaturated organic esters, e.g. polyacrylic esters, polyvinyl acetate
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

【課題】風合いがウール100%製品に匹敵する高級感を有し、水に濡れたり家庭用洗濯機で洗濯されたりしても乾燥後にしわができにくく、スチーム処理されてもコシやハリが劣化しにくい合繊混布地、及びこの合繊混布地が服地として用いられた洋服を提供する。【解決手段】ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及びアクリル系繊維が混紡された混紡糸からなるか又は混紡糸を主に含んで構成され、アクリル系繊維の平均繊度が0.5dtex以上かつ1.4dtex以下である合繊混布地である。合繊混布地での混紡糸では、ウールの含有量が30重量%以上かつ70重量%以下であり、ポリエステル繊維の含有量が20重量%以上かつ50重量%以下であり、アクリル系繊維の含有量が10重量%以上かつ30重量%以下であり得る。また、この布地を服地として含んでなる洋服である。【選択図】なし[PROBLEMS] To provide a high-quality feeling comparable to 100% wool products, hardly wrinkle after drying even when wet or washed in a home-use washing machine, and the stiffness and firmness deteriorates even when steamed The present invention provides a synthetic fiber mixed fabric that is difficult to wear, and clothes in which this synthetic fiber mixed fabric is used as a clothing material. SOLUTION: It is composed of a blended yarn in which wool, polyester fiber, and acrylic fiber are blended or mainly contains a blended yarn, and the average fineness of the acrylic fiber is 0.5 dtex or more and 1.4 dtex or less. It is a synthetic fiber mixed fabric. In the blended yarn in the synthetic fiber mixed fabric, the content of the wool is 30% by weight to 70% by weight, the content of the polyester fiber is 20% by weight to 50% by weight, and the content of the acrylic fiber May be 10 wt% or more and 30 wt% or less. Moreover, it is the clothes which contain this fabric as clothes. [Selection figure] None

Description

本発明は、合繊混布地、及び前記合繊混布地が服地として用いられた洋服に関する。   The present invention relates to a synthetic fiber mixed fabric and a clothes in which the synthetic fiber mixed fabric is used as a clothing material.

ウール100%の服地は、良好な風合いを備えており、かつ、見た目に色感に深みがあり、品の良さを感じ、更に生地の表情が滑らかなのに立体感や深み感がある。このため、ウール100%の服地を含んでなる紳士服地または婦人服地は、高級品として高い商品価値が認められている。ファインなウールを用いた強撚糸使いの服地は、特に高級感を有し、最も高い商品価値が認められている。   A 100% wool garment has a good texture, has a deep color appearance, feels good, and has a three-dimensional feel and depth even though the fabric looks smooth. For this reason, men's clothing or women's clothing comprising 100% wool clothing is recognized as a high-grade product. The fabric of strong twisted yarn using fine wool has a particularly high-class feeling and the highest commercial value is recognized.

紳士服地等として良好な風合いとは、良好なドレープ性、良好な反撥性、独特な触感を一般にいう。ドレープ性は、包む物体や体型に沿って滑らかに包み込む性質である。反撥性は、手のひらに布を包み込むように軽くにぎったのちにその手を開いて開放したときに、はじけるように布が元に戻ることである。独特な触感は、ウール特有のぬめり感を有しつつもべたつきのないサラサラとした心地よい触感である。このように、ウール100%の服地は良好な風合いと色感の深みという情緒に訴えた面での高級感を有し、高い商品価値が認められている。   A good texture as men's clothing or the like generally means good drape, good repulsion, and a unique tactile sensation. Drapability is a property of smoothly wrapping along a wrapping object or body shape. The repellent property is that the cloth returns to its original state when it is opened and released after being lightly wrapped so that the cloth is wrapped in the palm of the hand. The unique tactile sensation is a pleasant tactile sensation that has a slimy feel that is unique to wool but has no stickiness. Thus, a 100% wool fabric has a high-class feel in terms of appealing to the feeling of good texture and deep color, and is recognized for its high commercial value.

なお、服地は着用時に曲げ変形に加えて引っ張り、せん断などの変形を受ける。良好なドレープ性は服地の適度な初期曲げ硬さに加えて初期引っ張り硬さ(ヤング率に相当)や、初期せん断硬さが低いことによりもたらされる。さらに良好な反撥性は初期曲げ変形、初期引っ張り、初期せん断変形からの弾性回復が良好であることによりもたらされる。このことは、例えば、同じ曲げ硬さを有する服地と紙とを比較すると、いっそう理解できる。   In addition, clothes are subject to deformation such as pulling and shearing in addition to bending deformation. Good drape is brought about by low initial tensile hardness (corresponding to Young's modulus) and low initial shear hardness in addition to moderate initial bending hardness of the fabric. Even better repellency results from good elastic recovery from initial bending deformation, initial pulling, and initial shear deformation. This can be further understood, for example, by comparing clothing having the same bending hardness with paper.

一方、ウール100%の服地は、水に濡れたまま放置して乾燥させると、しわになる傾向がある。家庭用洗濯機で洗濯して乾かすと、しわになるという問題もある。また、原料のウールが合成繊維より高価であるため、ウール100%の服地は高価である。このため、紳士服地等として、合繊との混紡糸を用いることが試みられてきた。洗濯性や濡れた後のしわについては、混紡糸の使用により解決される場合が多い。   On the other hand, 100% wool fabrics tend to wrinkle when left wet and dried. There is also a problem that wrinkles occur when washed in a home washing machine and dried. Moreover, since the raw wool is more expensive than the synthetic fiber, a 100% wool garment is expensive. For this reason, attempts have been made to use blended yarns with synthetic fibers as men's clothing. Washability and wrinkles after wetting are often solved by the use of blended yarn.

実開昭59−137930号公報Japanese Utility Model Publication No.59-137930

しかし、従来の混紡糸で構成された合繊混服地では、ウール100%の服地に特有な高級感のある風合いが合繊を混紡することにより損なわれるという問題があった。また、ウールとポリエステル繊維が混紡された混紡糸で構成された合繊混服地では、反撥性が不良となる場合が多い。ウールとアクリル系繊維が混紡された混紡糸で構成された合繊混服地では、アクリル系繊維が熱や外力で可塑的に変形しやすいため、製造時での仕上げ工程や家庭用洗濯機での洗濯により服地のコシやハリが劣化する傾向にある。ファインなウールを用いた強撚糸使いの服地では、水濡れや高湿度による(例えば縫製時の蒸気やアイロン等による)、寸法や表面外観の変化が発生するという問題がある。   However, in a synthetic fiber mixed garment composed of conventional blended yarns, there is a problem that a high-class texture peculiar to a 100% wool garment is impaired by blending synthetic fiber. Moreover, in a synthetic fiber mixed garment composed of a blended yarn in which wool and polyester fiber are blended, the rebound characteristics are often poor. In synthetic fiber blended areas composed of blended yarns of wool and acrylic fibers, acrylic fibers are easily deformed plastically by heat and external forces, so the finishing process during manufacturing and washing in household washing machines Due to this, the stiffness and tension of the clothes tend to deteriorate. In a fabric using strong twisted yarn using fine wool, there is a problem that changes in dimensions and surface appearance occur due to water wetting and high humidity (for example, due to steam or iron during sewing).

特許文献1には、ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及びアクリル繊維の三者混紡糸からなる合繊混服地が記載されているが、この三者混紡糸を用いることによりウール100%の服地に特有な高級感のある風合いを得る可能性については言及も示唆もない。   Patent Document 1 describes a synthetic fiber mixed garment made of a three-component blended yarn of wool, polyester fiber, and acrylic fiber. By using this three-component blended yarn, a high-class feeling unique to a 100% wool garment is disclosed. There is no mention or suggestion of the possibility of obtaining a certain texture.

上記した問題に鑑み、本発明の課題は、風合いがウール100%製品に匹敵する高級感を有し、水に濡れたり家庭用洗濯機で洗濯されたりしても乾燥後にしわができにくく、スチーム処理されてもコシやハリが劣化しにくい合繊混布地、及びこの布地を服地として用いた洋服を提供することである。   In view of the above-mentioned problems, the problem of the present invention is that the texture has a high-class feeling comparable to 100% wool products, and even when wet or washed in a household washing machine, it is difficult to wrinkle after drying. It is to provide a synthetic fiber mixed fabric that is not easily deteriorated in elasticity and tension even if it is processed, and a clothing using this fabric as a clothing.

上記した課題を解決するために、本発明に係る合繊混布地は、ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及びアクリル系繊維が混紡された混紡糸からなるか、又は前記混紡糸を主に含んで構成された布地であって、前記アクリル系繊維の平均繊度が0.5dtex以上かつ1.4dtex以下である合繊混布地である。   In order to solve the above-described problems, the synthetic fiber blend fabric according to the present invention is a fabric composed of a blended yarn obtained by blending wool, polyester fiber, and acrylic fiber, or mainly including the blended yarn. And the synthetic fiber mixed fabric whose average fineness of the said acrylic fiber is 0.5 dtex or more and 1.4 dtex or less.

本発明に係る合繊混布地では、前記混紡糸において、前記ウールの含有量が30重量%以上かつ70重量%以下であり、前記ポリエステル繊維の含有量が20重量%以上かつ50重量%以下であり、前記アクリル系繊維の含有量が10重量%以上かつ30重量%以下であり得る。   In the synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to the present invention, in the blended yarn, the wool content is 30 wt% or more and 70 wt% or less, and the polyester fiber content is 20 wt% or more and 50 wt% or less. The acrylic fiber content may be 10 wt% or more and 30 wt% or less.

本発明に係る合繊混布地では、前記混紡糸の下撚り係数(T/√Nで定義され、T:下撚り数、N:メートル番手)は80以上かつ120以下であり得る。   In the synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to the present invention, the mixed yarn may have a lower twist coefficient (defined by T / √N, T: number of lower twists, N: metric number) of 80 or more and 120 or less.

本発明に係る合繊混布地では、前記混紡糸は双糸であり、該混紡糸の番手(メートル番手)は2/36から2/120までであり得る。   In the synthetic fiber blend fabric according to the present invention, the blended yarn may be a twin yarn, and the count (metric count) of the blended yarn may be from 2/36 to 2/120.

本発明に係る合繊混布地では、前記混紡糸の上撚り方向は下撚り方向と同じであり、上撚り数は下撚り数の80%以上かつ130%以下であり得る。   In the synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to the present invention, the upper twist direction of the blended yarn may be the same as the lower twist direction, and the upper twist number may be 80% or more and 130% or less of the lower twist number.

本発明に係る洋服は、布地を含んでなる洋服であって、前記布地は上記いずれかに記載の前記合繊混布地からなるか又は該合繊混布地を含有することにある。   The clothes according to the present invention are clothes comprising a fabric, and the fabric is made of the synthetic fiber mixed fabric described in any one of the above, or contains the synthetic fiber mixed fabric.

本発明に係る合繊混布地によれば、ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及び平均繊度が0.5dtex以上かつ1.4dtex以下である極細繊度のアクリル系繊維が混紡されてなる混紡糸を用いて製造されているため、風合いがウール100%製品に匹敵する高級感のある布地が提供される。かかる布地ではウール以外にポリエステル繊維とアクリル系繊維が使用されているため、水に濡れたり家庭用洗濯機で洗濯されたりしても、乾燥後にしわになり難いものとなる。また、ポリエステル繊維以外に極細繊度の(マイクロ)アクリル系繊維が混紡されているため、反撥性が良好な布地となる。更に、熱や外力で可塑的に変形しやすいアクリル系繊維は極細繊度で構成されているため、たとえ熱や外力の影響を受けたとしても、布地のコシやハリに影響することはほとんどない。   According to the synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to the present invention, it is manufactured using a blended yarn obtained by blending wool, polyester fiber, and acrylic fiber having an ultrafine fineness having an average fineness of 0.5 dtex or more and 1.4 dtex or less. Therefore, a high-quality fabric whose texture is comparable to a 100% wool product is provided. In such fabrics, polyester fibers and acrylic fibers are used in addition to wool, so that even if they are wet with water or washed in a home washing machine, they do not easily wrinkle after drying. Further, since the microfiber (micro) acrylic fiber is blended in addition to the polyester fiber, the fabric has good repulsion. Furthermore, since the acrylic fiber that is easily plastically deformed by heat and external force is composed of ultrafine fineness, even if it is affected by heat or external force, it hardly affects the stiffness and elasticity of the fabric.

すなわち、本発明に係る合繊混布地によれば、ウール服地特有の風合いや色の深みなどの情緒性にかかわる高付加価値性の実現と機能性(物性面)の安定化(水に濡れたり家庭用洗濯機で洗濯されたりしても、乾燥後にしわになりにくいこと)の両立が可能となる。しかもファインなウールを使わず、レギュラーなウールで対応できるので製造コストの軽減にもつながり、高級感のある布地を安価に提供できる。   That is, according to the synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to the present invention, realization of high added value and stabilization of functionality (physical properties) related to emotion such as texture and color depth peculiar to woolen clothing (wet in water or at home). Even if it is washed in a washing machine, it is possible to make it difficult to wrinkle after drying. In addition, regular wool can be used without using fine wool, leading to reduced manufacturing costs and providing high-quality fabrics at low cost.

本発明に係る合繊混布地に用いられる織物の一例での組織図を示す。The organization chart in an example of the textile fabric used for the synthetic fiber mixed fabric which concerns on this invention is shown.

<本発明に係る合繊混布地>
本発明に係る合繊混布地(以下「本布地」ともいう。)は、ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及びアクリル系繊維が混紡された混紡糸からなるか、又は該混紡糸を主に含んで構成された合繊混布地である。本布地は該混紡糸を主成分としてなる織物であり、主として洋服等の製造に用いられる。本明細書に記載された繊度は、その測定値にバラツキがある場合には平均繊度である。また、本明細書において%で表示するときは、重量%を意味する。本明細書に記載された撚り数は、ことわりのない場合には1m当たりの撚り数を意味する。本布地について「主に含んで」とは、本布地での前記混紡糸の含有量が70%以上であることを意味する。
<Synthetic mixed fabric according to the present invention>
The synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to the present invention (hereinafter also referred to as “main fabric”) is composed of a blended yarn obtained by blending wool, polyester fiber, and acrylic fiber, or is mainly composed of the blended yarn. Synthetic mixed fabric. This fabric is intended weave composed mainly of該混spinning, used mainly manufacture of such clothing. The fineness described in the present specification is an average fineness when the measured values vary. Further, in the present specification, when it is expressed in%, it means weight%. The number of twists described in this specification means the number of twists per meter unless otherwise specified. “Mainly including” for the present fabric means that the content of the blended yarn in the present fabric is 70% or more.

本布地で用いられるポリエステル繊維として、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維、又は共重合ポリエステル繊維などが挙げられる。   Examples of the polyester fiber used in the fabric include polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, and copolymerized polyester fiber.

本布地で用いられるアクリル系繊維として、ポリアクリロニトリルを含有する一般的なアクリル系繊維が例示される。あるいは、アクリル系繊維は、例えば、アクリロニトリルと、塩化ビニルまたは塩化ビニリデンと、の共重合ポリマーであっても良い。この共重合ポリマーにおいてアクリロニトリルに由来する構成単位が占める重量は、例えば、35%以上かつ85%以下である。また、本布地で用いられるアクリル系繊維は、繊度が0.5dtex以上かつ1.4dtex以下であるアクリル系繊維(以下「極細AC繊維」という。)である。アクリル系繊維の繊度について、仮に、0.5dtex未満である場合には繊維径が小さすぎるから製造過程での紡績工程でトラブルが発生しやすく、1.4dtexを超えて大きい場合には、アクリル系繊維の繊維径が大きすぎるからか、服地が曲げなどの変形から回復するときに良好な弾性回復性が得られにくく、したがって、良好な風合いの布地が得られない。   Examples of the acrylic fiber used in the present fabric include a general acrylic fiber containing polyacrylonitrile. Alternatively, the acrylic fiber may be a copolymer of acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride or vinylidene chloride, for example. In this copolymer, the weight of the structural unit derived from acrylonitrile is, for example, 35% or more and 85% or less. The acrylic fiber used in the fabric is an acrylic fiber (hereinafter referred to as “extra fine AC fiber”) having a fineness of 0.5 dtex or more and 1.4 dtex or less. As for the fineness of the acrylic fiber, if the fiber diameter is less than 0.5 dtex, the fiber diameter is too small and trouble is likely to occur in the spinning process in the production process, and if it exceeds 1.4 dtex, the acrylic fiber Since the fiber diameter of the fiber is too large or when the fabric recovers from deformation such as bending, it is difficult to obtain good elastic recovery, and therefore a fabric with good texture cannot be obtained.

以上に説明した本布地の構成により、例えば、紳士服地、婦人服地として良好な風合いの服地が得られる。ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及び極細AC繊維が混紡された混紡糸(以下「本混紡糸」ともいう。)から成るか、又は本混紡糸を主に含んで構成された本布地において、良好な風合いが得られる理由は定かでないが、以下のように推察される。   According to the configuration of the fabric described above, for example, a fabric with a good texture can be obtained as a men's clothing or a women's clothing. In a fabric made of a blended yarn in which wool, polyester fiber, and ultrafine AC fiber are blended (hereinafter also referred to as “the present blended yarn”) or mainly composed of the blended yarn, a good texture is obtained. The reason for this is not clear, but is presumed as follows.

一般的に、ウールとポリエステル繊維の混紡糸を用いて作られた布地では、布地のコシが向上し、また、家庭用洗濯機で洗濯可能となる場合があるが、反撥性(曲げなどの変形からの弾性回復性)がウール100%の布地に比べて劣る。その理由として、ポリエステル繊維そのものは曲げ変形からの弾性回復性が良好な繊維であるが、布地は繊維集合体であり、布地が曲げなどの変形から回復するときにポリエステル繊維同士での摩擦が大きいため、布地では曲げなどの変形からの弾性回復が妨げられるものと考えられる。これに対して、本布地では、本混紡糸中で互いに隣接するポリエステル繊維同士の間に極細AC繊維が介在するため、ポリエステル繊維同士の間の摩擦がこの極細AC繊維によって軽減されるものと考えられる。このため、本布地では、布地の曲げなどの変形からの弾性回復が妨げられにくくなり、布地が曲げなどの変形から回復するときに良好な弾性回復性が得られるものと考えられる。   In general, fabrics made from blended yarns of wool and polyester fibers improve the stiffness of the fabric, and may be washable in a home washing machine. The resiliency from the fabric is inferior to that of 100% wool fabric. The reason for this is that the polyester fiber itself is a fiber that has good elastic recovery from bending deformation, but the fabric is a fiber assembly, and when the fabric recovers from deformation such as bending, the friction between the polyester fibers is large. Therefore, it is considered that the elastic recovery from deformation such as bending is hindered in the fabric. On the other hand, in the present fabric, since the ultrafine AC fibers are interposed between the polyester fibers adjacent to each other in the blended yarn, it is considered that the friction between the polyester fibers is reduced by the ultrafine AC fibers. It is done. For this reason, in this fabric, it is difficult to prevent elastic recovery from deformation such as bending of the fabric, and it is considered that good elastic recovery is obtained when the fabric recovers from deformation such as bending.

また、一般的にウール100%の布地を製造する際には、仕上げ加工時にウールが膨潤して径が太くなり、その後に乾燥工程で乾燥させると繊維の配置が変わることなく繊維径が細くなるから、繊維間に隙間が生じると考えられる。このため、ウール100%の布地では、曲げなどの変形から回復するときにウール繊維同士の摩擦が小さくなるから、布地の曲げなどの変形からの弾性回復が妨げられる度合が小さくなるものと推測される。ここで、本布地での極細AC繊維は、ウール100%の布地での繊維間の隙間と同様の作用を果たしているものと推察される。一方、アクリル系繊維での繊度が1.4dtexを超えて大きい場合には、前述したポリエステル繊維間での摩擦を低減させる作用を発揮しにくくなるためか、布地が曲げなどの変形から回復するときに良好な弾性回復性が得られにくい。すなわち、本願発明者は、ウール100%の布地に関して上述した膨潤と乾燥による隙間形成の作用に類似した作用が、本布地では極細AC繊維を混紡された混紡糸を用いることにより合繊混織物でも得られる、との仮説のもとに本発明に想到した。   In general, when producing a fabric made of 100% wool, the wool swells and becomes thicker during finishing, and then the fiber diameter becomes thinner without changing the fiber arrangement when dried in a drying process. Therefore, it is considered that a gap is generated between the fibers. For this reason, in a 100% wool fabric, the friction between wool fibers is reduced when recovering from deformation such as bending, so it is estimated that the degree to which elastic recovery from deformation such as bending of the fabric is hindered is reduced. The Here, it is surmised that the ultra-fine AC fiber in this fabric plays the same function as the gap between the fibers in the 100% wool fabric. On the other hand, when the fineness of the acrylic fiber is larger than 1.4 dtex, it may be difficult to exert the effect of reducing the friction between the polyester fibers described above, or when the fabric recovers from deformation such as bending. It is difficult to obtain good elastic recovery. That is, the inventor of the present invention can obtain an effect similar to the above-described effect of forming a gap by swelling and drying with respect to a 100% wool fabric by using a blended yarn obtained by blending ultra-fine AC fibers in this fabric. The present invention was conceived based on the hypothesis that the

さらに、ウール及び極細AC繊維と、本来、素材としては弾性回復性にすぐれるポリエステル繊維とを適度にブレンドすることにより、本発明を完成することができた。ポリエステル繊維のブレンドにより、雨などで服地が濡れたあとに乾燥すると目立つしわになるという問題も解消される。家庭用洗濯機での洗濯も可能となる。   Furthermore, the present invention could be completed by appropriately blending wool and ultrafine AC fibers with polyester fibers that are inherently excellent in elastic recovery properties. The blend of polyester fibers also eliminates the problem of wrinkles that become noticeable when the fabric is dried after rain. Laundry with a home washing machine is also possible.

さらに、本発明により、高価であるファインなウールを使わず、レギュラーなウールの使用が可能となり、原料コストの軽減にもつながり、かつ、ウール100%の服地に特有な風合いや色の深みなどの情緒性にかかわる高付加価値性の実現と機能性(物性面)の安定化(耐洗濯性や耐しわ性)の両立が可能となった。   Furthermore, according to the present invention, regular fine wool can be used without using expensive fine wool, leading to reduction of raw material costs, and texture and color depth peculiar to 100% wool fabric. Realization of high added value related to emotional properties and stabilization of functionality (physical properties) (washing resistance and wrinkle resistance) are possible.

この風合いや色の深みなどの情緒性にかかわる高付加価値性は、本混紡糸でのウールとポリエステル繊維と極細AC繊維のブレンドに加えて、従来よりも強撚された本混紡糸を用いることにより、さらに高めることができることが見出された。その上、この強撚された本混紡糸(強撚糸)として、下撚方向と同じ方向に上撚りされた双糸を用いることにより、この情緒性にかかわる高付加価値性がさらにより高められることがわかった。   The high added value related to the emotional nature such as texture and color depth is based on the use of this blended yarn that has been twisted more strongly than before, in addition to the blend of wool, polyester fiber and ultrafine AC fiber in this blended yarn. It has been found that this can be further enhanced. In addition, by using a double yarn twisted in the same direction as the lower twisting direction as this strongly twisted mixed spun yarn (strong twisted yarn), the high added value related to this emotion can be further enhanced. I understood.

なお、ファインなウールを用いた強撚糸使いの服地では、特に高級感が認められることがあるが、高湿度による(例えば縫製時の蒸気やアイロン等による)寸法や表面外観の変化が発生するという問題がある。また、ウール100%の服地では、強撚糸が用いられていることにより、適度なぬめり感とサラサラ感の両立を実現することがある程度は可能であるが、服地の表面にざらざらした凹凸感が避けられない。これに対して、本布地では、ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及び極細AC繊維が混紡された上述の強撚糸が用いられていることにより、適度なぬめり感とサラサラ感を両立させつつも布地の表面にざらざらした凹凸感が感じられない良好な風合いが得られるのである。   In addition, in high-twisted yarn garments using fine wool, a high-class feeling may be recognized, but changes in dimensions and surface appearance occur due to high humidity (for example, due to steam or iron during sewing). There's a problem. In addition, the use of strong twisted yarn in a 100% wool garment can achieve a certain level of both smoothness and smoothness, but avoids a rough texture on the surface of the garment. I can't. On the other hand, in the present fabric, the above-mentioned strong twisted yarn in which wool, polyester fiber, and ultrafine AC fiber are mixed is used. A good texture is obtained in which a rough texture is not felt.

極細AC繊維は、極細で曲げ剛性が小さいため、本布地の全体での曲げ硬さに対する寄与が小さい。このため、本布地を製造する際の仕上げ工程での変形や洗濯などによる極細AC繊維の変形が、本布地の全体での曲げ硬さや反撥性に及ぼす影響が小さく、本布地では良好な反撥性やハリが維持されやすい。   The extra fine AC fiber is extra fine and has a small bending rigidity, and therefore contributes little to the bending hardness of the entire fabric. For this reason, deformation in the finishing process when manufacturing this fabric and deformation of ultra-fine AC fibers due to washing, etc. have little effect on the bending hardness and rebound of the entire fabric, and this fabric has good repellent properties. And tension is easy to maintain.

本混紡糸の含有量が70%以上かつ100%未満である場合の本布地は、本発明の目的に反しない限り、本混紡糸と共に、含有量が0%よりも多くかつ30%以下の範囲内でその他の糸を含んで構成された織物であっても良い。その他の糸を構成する繊維として、例えば、合成繊維、再生繊維、半合成繊維、動物繊維、又は植物繊維などが挙げられる。合成繊維として、例えば、ナイロン繊維などのポリアミド系繊維、ポリプロピレン繊維などのポリオレフィン系繊維、又はポリビニル系繊維などが挙げられる。再生繊維として、例えばレーヨン等が挙げられる。動物繊維として、例えば、羊毛、獣毛、又は絹などが挙げられる。植物繊維として、例えば、綿繊維、又は麻繊維などが挙げられる。その他の糸は、例えば、合成繊維、再生繊維、半合成繊維、及び絹からなる群より選ばれた1種以上の繊維から成るフィラメント糸であっても良いし、極細AC繊維が混紡されることなく例示した繊維から選ばれた2種以上の繊維が混紡されて成るその他の混紡糸であっても良い。
The present fabric when the content of the blended yarn is 70% or more and less than 100% is within the range of more than 0% and 30% or less together with the blended yarn, unless it is contrary to the object of the present invention. it may be woven ones that are configured to include other threads within. Examples of other fibers constituting the yarn include synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, animal fibers, and plant fibers. Examples of synthetic fibers include polyamide fibers such as nylon fibers, polyolefin fibers such as polypropylene fibers, and polyvinyl fibers. Examples of the recycled fiber include rayon. Examples of animal fibers include wool, animal hair, and silk. Examples of plant fibers include cotton fibers or hemp fibers. The other yarn may be, for example, a filament yarn made of one or more kinds of fibers selected from the group consisting of synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, and silk, and ultrafine AC fiber is mixed. Alternatively, other blended yarns obtained by blending two or more kinds of fibers selected from the exemplified fibers may be used.

本布地では、ウール100%製品に匹敵する高級感を有し、洗濯して乾燥した後に更にしわができにくくする観点から、本混紡糸の含有量が、好ましくは90%以上、さらに好ましくは95%以上、さらにより好ましくは100%である。   In the present fabric, the blended yarn content is preferably 90% or more, more preferably 95 from the viewpoint of having a high-class feeling comparable to a 100% wool product and further preventing wrinkling after washing and drying. % Or more, even more preferably 100%.

本混紡糸でのウールの混紡率が低すぎると、良好な風合いを得るための仕上げ加工などの工程条件を探るのに多大の時間や労力を要しかねない。この観点から、本混紡糸でのウールの含有量は、好ましくは30%以上である。一方、布地の耐洗濯性や濡れたときなどの湿気の影響の受けにくさからみて、本混紡糸でのウールの含有量は、好ましくは70%以下、さらにより好ましくは50%以下である。本混紡糸でのウールの含有量が少ないほど本布地での原材料費が安価で済むため、原材料費を安価に抑えることと風合いを出すことを両立させる観点から、本混紡糸でのウールの混紡率が30%以上かつ50%以下であるのが、さらにより好ましい。   If the blending ratio of wool in the blended yarn is too low, it may take a lot of time and labor to find process conditions such as finishing to obtain a good texture. From this viewpoint, the wool content in the blended yarn is preferably 30% or more. On the other hand, the wool content in the blended yarn is preferably not more than 70%, and more preferably not more than 50%, considering the washing resistance of the fabric and the difficulty of being affected by moisture such as when wet. The lower the wool content in the blended yarn, the lower the raw material cost of the fabric. Therefore, from the viewpoint of both keeping the raw material cost low and creating a texture, blending the wool in the blended yarn It is even more preferable that the rate is 30% or more and 50% or less.

本混紡糸でのポリエステル繊維の含有量は、本布地に十分な防シワ性を付与する観点から、好ましくは20%以上である。また、本混紡糸でのポリエステル繊維の含有量は、布地として十分な反撥性を付与する観点から、好ましくは50%以下である。   The polyester fiber content in the blended yarn is preferably 20% or more from the viewpoint of imparting sufficient wrinkle resistance to the fabric. Further, the content of the polyester fiber in the blended yarn is preferably 50% or less from the viewpoint of imparting sufficient repellent property as a fabric.

本混紡糸での極細AC繊維の含有量は、本布地で反撥性を向上させやすい観点から、好ましくは10%以上である。また、本布地に適度なコシを付与しやすい観点から、本混紡糸での極細AC繊維の含有量は、好ましくは30%以下である。   The content of the ultrafine AC fiber in the blended yarn is preferably 10% or more from the viewpoint of easily improving the resilience of the fabric. Further, from the viewpoint of easily imparting appropriate stiffness to the present fabric, the content of the ultrafine AC fiber in the present blended yarn is preferably 30% or less.

上述したように、本布地で風合いが出やすく、原材料費を安価に抑えて、反撥性を向上させ、適度なコシを付与しやすい観点から、本混紡糸は、さらにより好ましくは、ウールの含有量が30%以上かつ70%以下であり、ポリエステル繊維の含有量が20%以上かつ50%以下であり、極細AC繊維の含有量が10%以上かつ30%以下である。   As described above, the blended yarn is more preferably made of wool, from the viewpoint that the fabric is easy to feel, the raw material costs are kept low, the rebound is improved, and the appropriate stiffness is easily imparted. The amount is 30% or more and 70% or less, the polyester fiber content is 20% or more and 50% or less, and the ultrafine AC fiber content is 10% or more and 30% or less.

服地として十分な剛性を付与する観点から、本混紡糸でのポリエステル繊維の繊度は、好ましくは1.6dtex以上である。また、服地として硬くなり過ぎるのを避ける観点から、本混紡糸でのポリエステル繊維の繊度は、好ましくは3.3dtex以下である。つまり、服地として適切な硬さ(コシ)を付与する観点から、本混紡糸でのポリエステル繊維の繊度は、さらに好ましくは1.6dtex以上かつ3.3dtex以下である。   From the viewpoint of imparting sufficient rigidity as clothing, the fineness of the polyester fiber in the blended yarn is preferably 1.6 dtex or more. Further, from the viewpoint of avoiding becoming too hard as a fabric, the fineness of the polyester fiber in the blended yarn is preferably 3.3 dtex or less. That is, from the viewpoint of imparting appropriate hardness (cloth) as clothing, the fineness of the polyester fiber in the blended yarn is more preferably 1.6 dtex or more and 3.3 dtex or less.

本混紡糸でのポリエステル繊維とアクリル系繊維は、いずれも複合繊維であってもよい。複合繊維とすることにより、ウールの特性に馴染みやすい性質を付与することができる。   The polyester fiber and acrylic fiber in the blended yarn may both be composite fibers. By using a composite fiber, it is possible to impart a property that is easily adapted to the properties of wool.

本混紡糸は、本発明の目的に反しない限り、ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及び極細AC繊維と共に、その他の繊維が混紡されていても良く、この場合に本混紡糸でのその他の繊維の含有量は10%以下である。例えば、本混紡糸は、ウールの含有量が30%以上かつ70%未満であり、ポリエステル繊維の含有量が20%以上かつ50%以下であり、極細AC繊維の含有量が10%以上かつ30%以下であり、その他の繊維の含有量が0%よりも多くかつ10%以下であるのが好ましい。その他の繊維として、例えば、合成繊維、再生繊維、半合成繊維、羊毛以外の動物繊維、又は植物繊維などが挙げられる。本布地では、このように本混紡糸にその他の繊維を混紡させて使用することを妨げるものではない。   As long as this blended yarn is not contrary to the object of the present invention, other fibers may be blended together with wool, polyester fiber, and ultrafine AC fiber. In this case, the content of other fibers in the blended yarn Is 10% or less. For example, the blended yarn has a wool content of 30% or more and less than 70%, a polyester fiber content of 20% or more and 50% or less, and an ultrafine AC fiber content of 10% or more and 30%. %, And the content of other fibers is preferably more than 0% and 10% or less. Examples of other fibers include synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, animal fibers other than wool, or plant fibers. The present fabric does not prevent the use of other fibers in the blended yarn as described above.

これらウール、ポリエステル繊維、極細AC繊維、及び必要に応じてその他の繊維が上記範囲内で混紡され、本混紡糸が作られる。本混紡糸を用いて織物を織るための紡績糸が作られるが、紡績糸(単糸)の平均断面繊維本数が30本以上になるように選択されることが紡績性のうえで好ましい。
These wool, polyester fiber, ultra-fine AC fiber, and other fibers as necessary are blended within the above range to produce the present blended yarn. While the spun yarn is made for weaving woven product using the present blended yarn, the average cross-section the number of fibers spun yarn (single yarn) is selected to be above 30 this is preferable in the spinning properties.

本混紡糸(単糸)の撚り数をT(単位「T/m」)、メートル番手をNとすると、撚り係数はT/√Nで定義される。単糸に強度が付与されやすく、本布地に十分なコシが付与されやすい観点から、撚り係数が80以上となるように撚りが掛けられるのが好ましい。また、本布地の表面が荒くなり風合いが悪くなるのを避ける観点から、撚り係数が120以下となるように撚りが掛けられるのが好ましい。単糸の撚り方向は、Z撚り、S撚りのいずれでも良い。   When the number of twists of this blended yarn (single yarn) is T (unit “T / m”) and the metric number is N, the twist coefficient is defined as T / √N. From the viewpoint of easily imparting strength to the single yarn and easily imparting sufficient stiffness to the fabric, it is preferable that the twist is applied so that the twist coefficient is 80 or more. Further, from the viewpoint of preventing the surface of the fabric from becoming rough and the texture from getting worse, it is preferable that the twist is applied so that the twist coefficient is 120 or less. The twist direction of the single yarn may be either Z twist or S twist.

上記した単糸を2本合わせて、更に撚りを掛けるのが好ましい。得られた本混紡糸(双糸)の番手表示(メートル番手)は、薄手の服地が高級感に富むという感覚的な高級感を本布地で満たしやすい観点から、さらに好ましくは2/36から2/140まで、さらにより好ましくは2/70から2/100までである(ここで、「2」は双糸であることを示す。)。これよりも細番手の糸は、ウール原料の制約などから極めて高価になりやすい。本混紡糸(双糸)は、これらの番手表示の範囲内であれば、番手表示が異なる単糸を2本合わされて更に撚りを掛けられたものであっても良い。   It is preferable that two single yarns described above are combined and further twisted. The obtained mixed yarn (double yarn) has a count (meter count), more preferably from 2/36 to 2 from the viewpoint of easily satisfying the sensual luxury feeling that the thin fabric is rich in luxury. Up to / 140, even more preferably from 2/70 to 2/100 (where "2" indicates twin yarn). Finer yarns than this tend to be extremely expensive due to limitations of the wool raw material. The present mixed spun yarn (double yarn) may be one in which two single yarns having different count indications are combined and further twisted as long as they are within the range of these count indications.

本布地の表面でサラサラ感を感じやすくする観点から、本混紡糸(双糸)の上撚り方向が下撚り方向と同じであることが好ましい(Z−Z撚り又はS−S撚り)。このとき、上撚り数は下撚り数の80%以上が好ましい。なお、上撚り数が下撚り数の80%を下回ると、見た目に色感の立体感や深み感が不十分となる場合がある。一方、布地での表面の凹凸が顕著になりザラザラして適度なぬめり感が失われるのを避ける観点から、上撚り数は下撚り数の130%以下が好ましい。番手表示が異なる単糸を2本合わせて撚りをかけられた場合の本混紡糸(双糸)については、単糸の撚り数の平均値を混紡糸(双糸)の下撚り数とみなす。   From the viewpoint of making it easy to feel a smooth feeling on the surface of the present fabric, it is preferable that the upper twist direction of the present mixed spun yarn (twist yarn) is the same as the lower twist direction (ZZ twist or SS twist). At this time, the number of upper twists is preferably 80% or more of the number of lower twists. In addition, if the number of upper twists is less than 80% of the number of lower twists, the three-dimensional appearance and the sense of depth may be insufficient in appearance. On the other hand, the number of upper twists is preferably 130% or less of the number of lower twists from the viewpoint of preventing the surface irregularities on the fabric from becoming prominent and rough and losing an appropriate slimy feeling. For this blended yarn (twist yarn) when two single yarns having different counts are twisted together, the average value of the number of twists of the single yarn is regarded as the number of lower twists of the blended yarn (twist yarn).

上述の撚り構成において、下撚り方向と上撚り方向が異なると上撚りにより単糸の撚り(下撚り)が戻され、糸のしまりが弱くなる。下撚り方向と上撚り方向同じであると単糸の状態に比べて糸のしまりが強くなる。本発明においては、双糸構造におけるこのしまりが双糸構造と相俟ってさらさらとした良好な風合いを得るうえで好ましいことが見出されたのである。   In the above-described twisted configuration, if the lower twist direction and the upper twist direction are different, the twist of the single yarn (lower twist) is returned by the upper twist, and the tightness of the yarn is weakened. When the lower twist direction and the upper twist direction are the same, the tightness of the yarn becomes stronger compared to the single yarn state. In the present invention, it has been found that this tightness in the double-ply structure is preferable in combination with the double-ply structure to obtain a smooth texture.

本布地では、撚り数を上記した範囲で強撚とすることにより、さらっとしてかつべたつき感のない適度のぬめり感のあるより良好なウール服地特有の風合いや色の深みのある織物が得られる。なお、この色の深みは上記した範囲での強撚と、極細AC繊維の使用とによりもたらされるものと考えられる。また、本布地では、湿潤や高湿度による(例えば縫製時の蒸気やアイロン等による)、寸法や表面外観の変化が発生する問題がほとんどない。 In this fabric, by a strong twist the twist in the aforementioned range, there woven material with good wool cloth unique texture and color depth than a moderate slimy feeling without and sticky feeling as smooth can be obtained . This color depth is considered to be brought about by the strong twist in the above-mentioned range and the use of ultrafine AC fibers. Further, in the present fabric, there is almost no problem that changes in dimensions and surface appearance occur due to wetness or high humidity (for example, due to steam or iron during sewing).

本布地においては、上述の態様で強撚された本混紡糸(双糸)を用いて織られた織物が好ましい。織物の組織は三原組織、及びその変化組織から選択することができる。すなわち、織組織としては一般的な三原組織である平織、斜文織、及び朱子織からなる群より選択されるか、最終製品(洋服など)の用途などから適切な織組織を得るために任意の変化組織から選択される。織られた布地のカバーファクターKは、次式で表される。   In the present fabric, a woven fabric woven using the present mixed spun yarn (twist yarn) twisted in the above-described manner is preferable. The texture of the woven fabric can be selected from the Mihara texture and its changed texture. In other words, the woven structure is selected from the group consisting of general three-layered plain weaving, oblique weaving, and satin weaving, or arbitrary to obtain an appropriate woven structure from the use of the final product (clothes, etc.). Selected from a variety of organizations. The cover factor K of the woven fabric is expressed by the following equation.

Figure 0006581703
:たて糸の織密度(本/2.54cm)/√たて糸のメートル番手(糸の線密度(g/m)の逆数)
:よこ糸の織密度(本/2.54cm)/√よこ糸のメートル番手(糸の線密度(g/m)の逆数)
Figure 0006581703
K 1 : Woven density of warp yarn (number / 2.54 cm) / √Meter count of warp yarn (reciprocal of yarn linear density (g / m))
K 2 : Weaving density of the weft yarn (numbers / 2.54 cm) / √ Weft yarn metric (reciprocal of yarn linear density (g / m))

本布地では、服地として適切な硬さ(コシ)が付与されやすい観点などや、製織性に優れる観点から、上記したカバーファクターKが6以上かつ13以下であるのが好ましい。   In the present fabric, it is preferable that the above-described cover factor K is 6 or more and 13 or less from the viewpoint of easily imparting appropriate hardness (cloth) as clothing and the viewpoint of excellent weaving properties.

本布地は、ウール100%の服地よりも原材料費が安価に抑えられているにも関わらず、風合いがウール100%製品に匹敵する高級感を有する観点から、紳士服地や婦人服地として用いられるのが好ましい。また、本布地は、さらさらとした感触の点から、主に春夏用に用いられる洋服の服地として用いられるのが好ましい。   This fabric is used as men's clothing and women's clothing from the viewpoint that the texture has a high-class feeling comparable to 100% wool products despite the fact that raw material costs are kept cheaper than clothing made of 100% wool. Is preferred. Moreover, it is preferable that this fabric is used as clothes of clothes mainly used for spring and summer from the point of the smooth touch.

<本発明に係る洋服>
本発明に係る洋服(以下「本洋服」という。)は、本発明に係る布地を用いて得られる。すなわち、本洋服は本発明に係る布地を含んでなる洋服である。なお、洋服とは、西洋風の衣服(身にまとう物)である。洋服として、例えば、トップス、ズボン、スカート、ドレス、背広、制服、又はアウターウェアなどが例示される。
<Clothes according to the present invention>
The clothes according to the present invention (hereinafter referred to as “main clothes”) are obtained using the fabric according to the present invention. That is, the present clothes are clothes comprising the fabric according to the present invention. The clothes are Western-style clothes (clothes). Examples of clothes include tops, trousers, skirts, dresses, suits, uniforms, or outerwear.

その他、本発明は、その趣旨を逸脱しない範囲で当業者の知識に基づいて種々なる改良、修正または変形を加えた態様で実施できる。また、同一の作用または効果が生じる範囲内で、いずれかの発明特定事項を他の技術に置換した形態で実施しても良い。   In addition, the present invention can be implemented in a mode in which various improvements, modifications, or variations are added based on the knowledge of those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the present invention. Moreover, you may implement with the form which substituted any invention specific matter to the other technique within the range which the same effect | action or effect produces.

ウール、及びポリエステル繊維の各々については、常法により製造された染トップを用いた。極細AC繊維については、トウをコンバータでスライバー化し、その後トップメークし、トップ染して染トップを得た。これらトップをミキシングした後、通常の梳毛紡績の工程により精紡、合糸、加撚して極細AC繊維を得た。以上は、いずれも常法によるので詳しい説明を省略する。   For each of wool and polyester fibers, a dye top produced by a conventional method was used. For ultrafine AC fibers, the tow was slivered with a converter, then top-made, and top dyed to obtain a dyed top. After mixing these tops, fine spinning AC fibers were obtained by spinning, synthesizing, and twisting by the usual process of woolen spinning. Since the above is based on a conventional method, detailed explanation is omitted.

<実施例1>
ウールとして、繊維径が18.5μmグレードのものを準備した。ポリエステル繊維として、繊度が2.2dtexであるポリエチレンテレフタレートステープルを準備した。極細AC繊維として繊度が1.1dtexであるアクリル繊維トウを準備した。これらの繊維を原料として用いて前述の工程により、ウールの含有量が35%、ポリエステル繊維の含有量が40%、及び極細AC繊維の含有量が25%となるように混紡して、メートル番手1/80、撚り数がZ 1,000T/mの単糸を得た。この単糸2本を合糸し、更にZ撚りに1mあたり1,100回加撚して(上撚り数 Z 1,100T/m)、混紡糸(双糸)を得た。
<Example 1>
Wool having a fiber diameter of 18.5 μm grade was prepared. A polyethylene terephthalate staple having a fineness of 2.2 dtex was prepared as a polyester fiber. An acrylic fiber tow having a fineness of 1.1 dtex was prepared as an ultrafine AC fiber. Using these fibers as a raw material, the above-mentioned process is used to blend so that the wool content is 35%, the polyester fiber content is 40%, and the ultrafine AC fiber content is 25%. A single yarn of 1/80 and a twist number of Z 1,000 T / m was obtained. The two single yarns were combined, and further twisted 1,100 times per 1 m (twist number Z 1,100 T / m) in a Z twist to obtain a blended yarn (twist yarn).

上記した混紡糸(双糸)を用いて、図1に示す組織図にしたがって製織し、常法により織物仕上げ加工を行い、実施例1に係る布地を得た。実施例1に係る布地において、布地の目付は211g/mであり、たて糸密度は91本/2.54cmであり、よこ糸密度は77本/2.54cmであった。 Using the above-mentioned blended yarn (twist yarn), weaving was performed according to the organization chart shown in FIG. 1, and fabric finishing was performed by a conventional method to obtain a fabric according to Example 1. In the fabric according to Example 1, the fabric basis weight was 211 g / m 2 , the warp yarn density was 91 yarns / 2.54 cm, and the weft yarn density was 77 yarns / 2.54 cm.

<実施例2>
実施例1と同じ素材と混紡率(混紡糸での各繊維の含有量が同じ)により、メートル番手が1/80である混紡糸を得た(下撚り数 S 1,000T/m)。この混紡糸2本を合糸して、S撚りに1mあたり1,100回加撚した(上撚り数 S 1,100T/m)。得られた混紡糸(双糸)を用いて、実施例1と同様に布地を織ることにより、実施例2に係る布地を得た。
<Example 2>
A blended yarn having a metric count of 1/80 was obtained (the number of primary twists S 1,000 T / m) by the same material and blending rate as in Example 1 (the content of each fiber in the blended yarn was the same). Two of these blended yarns were combined and twisted 1,100 times per 1 meter in S twist (number of first twists S 1,100 T / m). A fabric according to Example 2 was obtained by weaving the fabric in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained blended yarn (double yarn).

実施例1及び実施例2で得られた布地は、いずれも反撥性が良好であり、ウール100%の服地と同等の良好な風合いを有していた。また、これらの布地は、ウール100%の服地に特有な触感のように、表面に特有なぬめり感を有しつつもベタツキのないサラサラとした心地よい触感を有し、かつ、ウール100%の服地に特有な色の深みと同等の色の深みがあった。このため、実施例1及び実施例2で得られた布地は、春夏向けの紳士用または婦人用の服地として好適なものになっていた。これら布地では、縫製時の蒸気やアイロンにより寸法や表面外観の変化が発生することによる問題が生じなかった。   The fabrics obtained in Example 1 and Example 2 both had good repellent properties and had a good texture equivalent to 100% wool fabric. In addition, these fabrics have a comfortable feel that is smooth and has no stickiness while having a peculiar feeling of slimness on the surface, such as a tactile sensation that is unique to 100% wool. There was a color depth equivalent to the color depth unique to. For this reason, the fabric obtained in Example 1 and Example 2 was suitable for men's or women's clothing for spring and summer. In these fabrics, there were no problems due to changes in dimensions and surface appearance caused by steam and iron during sewing.

<比較例1>
実施例1と同様のウール及びポリエステル繊維を用いたが、実施例1での極細AC繊維トウの代わりに、繊度が2.2dtexであるアクリル系繊維トウを用いた。これら繊維を、実施例1と同様の割合で混紡し、実施例1と同様の糸番手、撚り構成の双糸を得た。この双糸を用いて実施例1に準じて織り、比較例1に係る布地を得た。
<Comparative Example 1>
The same wool and polyester fibers as in Example 1 were used, but an acrylic fiber tow having a fineness of 2.2 dtex was used instead of the ultrafine AC fiber tow in Example 1. These fibers were blended at the same ratio as in Example 1 to obtain twin yarns having the same yarn count and twist as in Example 1. Using this double yarn, weaving was performed according to Example 1 to obtain a fabric according to Comparative Example 1.

実施例1及び実施例2と比べて、比較例1に係る布地では反撥性が劣っていた。また、比較例1に係る布地では、ウール100%の服地に特有な触感、特有のぬめり感、及びベタツキのないサラサラとした心地よい触感が得られていなかった。比較例1に係る布地では、ウール100%の服地に特有な色の深みと同等の色の深みも得られていなかった。これらの実験結果から、アクリル系繊維として極細AC繊維が混紡された本混紡糸の有用性を本発明者は見出した。   Compared with Example 1 and Example 2, the fabric according to Comparative Example 1 was inferior in repulsion. Moreover, in the fabric which concerns on the comparative example 1, the tactile sensation peculiar to the clothing of 100% of wool, the peculiar slimy feeling, and the smooth tactile feeling without stickiness were not acquired. In the fabric according to Comparative Example 1, the color depth equivalent to the color depth unique to the 100% wool fabric was not obtained. From these experimental results, the present inventors have found the usefulness of the present blended yarn obtained by blending ultrafine AC fibers as acrylic fibers.

本布地は、洋服の素材として用いられるのに限らず、高級服地を用いた高付加価値ファッションの素材としても用いることができる。   This fabric is not limited to being used as a material for clothes, but can also be used as a material for high-value-added fashion using high-quality clothing.

Claims (5)

ウール、ポリエステル繊維、及びアクリル系繊維を含む3種以上の繊維が混紡された混紡糸からなる織物であるか、又は前記混紡糸を主に含んで構成された織物である合繊混布地であって、
前記混紡糸は、前記3種以上の繊維が混合されて該混紡糸の長手方向にわたり所定の混合比で概ね均一に分布するように混紡されて成り、該混紡糸における前記ウールと前記ポリエステル繊維と前記アクリル系繊維の合計の含有量が90重量%以上かつ100重量%以下であり、
前記アクリル系繊維の繊度が0.5dtex以上かつ1.4dtex以下であることを特徴とする合繊混布地。
It is a woven fabric composed of a blended yarn in which three or more kinds of fibers including wool, polyester fiber and acrylic fiber are blended, or a synthetic fiber blend fabric which is a fabric mainly composed of the blended yarn. ,
The blended yarn is formed by blending the three or more types of fibers so that the blended yarn is distributed almost uniformly at a predetermined mixing ratio in the longitudinal direction of the blended yarn, and the wool and the polyester fiber in the blended yarn are mixed. The total content of the acrylic fibers is 90% by weight or more and 100% by weight or less,
The synthetic fiber mixed fabric, wherein the fineness of the acrylic fiber is 0.5 dtex or more and 1.4 dtex or less.
前記混紡糸において、前記ウールの含有量が30重量%以上かつ70重量%以下であり、前記ポリエステル繊維の含有量が20重量%以上かつ50重量%以下であり、前記アクリル系繊維の含有量が10重量%以上かつ30重量%以下である請求項1に記載された合繊混布地。   In the blended yarn, the wool content is 30% by weight or more and 70% by weight or less, the polyester fiber content is 20% by weight or more and 50% by weight or less, and the acrylic fiber content is The synthetic fiber blend fabric according to claim 1, which is 10% by weight or more and 30% by weight or less. 前記混紡糸は双糸であり、該混紡糸の番手(メートル番手)は2/36から2/140までである、請求項1または請求項2に記載された合繊混布地。 The synthetic fiber blend fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the blended yarn is a twin yarn, and the yarn count (metric count) of the blended yarn is from 2/36 to 2/140. 前記混紡糸は双糸であり、該混紡糸の番手(メートル番手)は2/36から2/140までであり、該混紡糸の下撚り係数(T/√Nで定義され、T:下撚り数、N:メートル番手)は80以上かつ120以下であり、該混紡糸の上撚り数は下撚り数の80%以上かつ130%以下であり、混紡糸の上撚り方向は下撚り方向と同じである請求項1または請求項2に記載された合繊混布地。 Wherein blended yarn is a double yarn,該混spinning count (metric count) is from 2/36 to 2/140, defined under twist factor (T / √N of the blended yarn, T: twist number, N: metric count) is 80 or more and 120 or less, the number of twists on the該混spinning is less than 80% and 130% of the number of twists, twisting direction on the said yarn blend is a direction twist The synthetic fiber mixed fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , which is the same. 布地を含んでなる洋服であって、
前記布地は、請求項1から請求項4までのいずれか一項に記載された合繊混布地からなるか又は前記合繊混布地を含有することを特徴とする洋服。
Clothes comprising fabric,
The said fabric consists of the synthetic fiber mixed fabric as described in any one of Claim 1- Claim 4, or contains the said synthetic fiber mixed fabric.
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