CN112545927A - Additive for inhibiting melanin of cosmetics, preparation method and whitening cosmetics - Google Patents

Additive for inhibiting melanin of cosmetics, preparation method and whitening cosmetics Download PDF

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CN112545927A
CN112545927A CN202011515446.XA CN202011515446A CN112545927A CN 112545927 A CN112545927 A CN 112545927A CN 202011515446 A CN202011515446 A CN 202011515446A CN 112545927 A CN112545927 A CN 112545927A
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extract
melanin
cosmetic
water
nostoc
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瞿晓霈
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Shanghai Dianshi Medical Technology Co ltd
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Shanghai Dianshi Medical Technology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9711Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/70Biological properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/72Hypo-allergenic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/82Preparation or application process involves sonication or ultrasonication

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Abstract

The invention provides a cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive, a preparation method and a whitening cosmetic. The cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 15-30 parts of nostoc sphaeroides extract, 10-20 parts of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, 5-12 parts of nostoc commune extract, 2-5 parts of euglena extract and 1-5 parts of kelp extract. The additive for inhibiting melanin of the cosmetics can prolong the moisturizing and water locking effects of the cosmetics for 5-7h, inhibit the formation of melanin, slow down the deposition of melanin, improve the whitening effect, and also has good effects of removing freckles, resisting allergy, resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet rays and the like, thereby having wide application prospects.

Description

Additive for inhibiting melanin of cosmetics, preparation method and whitening cosmetics
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a melanin inhibiting additive for cosmetics, a preparation method and a whitening cosmetic.
Background
Water is the source of life and also the source of skin beauty. Healthy and beautiful skin is full and plump, each cell has sufficient water, healthy skin color and luster are presented, skin texture is ordered, and physiological function is healthy; the lack of water in the cells can lead to the generation of dry lines, even permanent wrinkles, dull complexion, disorganized texture of the skin, and even loss of physiological functions (e.g., metabolism, excretion).
A key factor affecting the health of the skin is the moisture content of the skin. The epidermis and dermis typically contain about 75% water; skin with a water content of 10-20% in the stratum corneum will assume a healthy state, generally not less than 10%. If the water content of the stratum corneum is less than 10%, problems such as wrinkles, desquamation, tarnish, etc. may occur.
In recent years, the problem of skin dryness has been a major concern with climate change, environmental deterioration, and recognition of the cause of skin aging. Numerous cosmetic consumers and cosmetic researchers desire to solve or alleviate the problem of dry skin. At present, a plurality of moisturizing products are available on the market, but the dry skin can not be solved only by moisturizing, so that the long-term moisturizing effect is poor.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive, a preparation method thereof and a cosmetic containing the additive, wherein the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive is added in a reasonable proportion, so that the moisturizing and water locking effects of the cosmetic can be prolonged to 5-7h, the cosmetic can be added into the cosmetic to deeply lock the moisture of skin, and the skin moisture can be kept for a long time even in an environment with lower relative humidity, so that the skin cannot be dried and lack of water due to the influence of the environment, the moisture content and the moisturizing degree of the skin can be kept for a long time, the skin elasticity can be improved, all components are plant extracts, and the cosmetic is safe and has small irritation; can inhibit the formation of melanin at different stages, thereby having synergistic effect on the inhibition of melanin, slowing down the deposition of melanin and improving the whitening effect. In addition, the beverage also has good effects of removing freckles, resisting allergy, resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet rays and the like, and has wide application prospect.
The technical scheme of the invention is realized as follows:
the invention provides a cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin, which comprises nostoc sphaeroides extract, phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, nostoc commune extract, and one or two of euglena extract and kelp extract;
preferably, the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 15-30 parts of nostoc sphaeroides extract, 10-20 parts of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, 5-12 parts of nostoc commune extract, 2-5 parts of euglena extract and 1-5 parts of kelp extract;
the nostoc sphaeroides extract is prepared by a freeze-thawing method; the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is prepared by adopting a repeated freeze thawing method; the nostoc commune extract is prepared by adopting a water body alcohol precipitation method; the euglena extract is prepared by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted enzymolysis method; the kelp extract is prepared by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted acid extraction method.
As a further improvement of the invention, the preparation method of the nostoc sphaeroides extract specifically comprises the following steps: washing nostoc sphaeroides, drying, crushing to 100-200 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1: (5-10) g/mL is mixed with water, soaked for 0.5-1h, placed in a freezing chamber, frozen at (-5) - (-20) DEG C for 10-12h, taken out and thawed to obtain jelly-like paste and purple liquid, wherein the purple liquid is reserved; chewing the jelly-like paste, squeezing to obtain liquid, mixing with the purple liquid, and concentrating with ultrafiltration membrane to relative density of 1.2-1.5 to obtain Nostoc sphaeroides extract.
As a further improvement of the invention, the preparation method of the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract specifically comprises the following steps: cleaning and separating Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells with clear water, and mixing the Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1: (1-3) g/mL is mixed with water, the mixture is placed in a freezing chamber, frozen for 10-12h at (-15) - (-20) DEG C, taken out and unfrozen, the process is repeated for 2-3 times, after unfreezing, centrifugation is carried out for 10-15min at 3000 and 5000r/min, solids are removed, and liquid ultrafiltration membrane is concentrated to the relative density of 1.2-1.5, so as to obtain the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract.
As a further improvement of the invention, the preparation method of the nostoc commune extract specifically comprises the following steps: cleaning nostoc commune, drying, crushing to 100-200 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: (5-10) g/mL of the extract is mixed with water, soaked for 0.5-1h, heated to boil for 1-3h, cooled to room temperature, added with absolute ethyl alcohol with the same volume, continuously stirred and uniformly mixed, kept stand for 1-3h, filtered, and the obtained precipitate is repeatedly washed with water and dried to obtain the nostoc commune extract.
As a further improvement of the invention, the preparation method of the euglena extract specifically comprises the following steps: 1, mixing euglena powder according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: (2-5) g/mL and PBS buffer solution are mixed uniformly, the pH is 6.8-7.2, complex enzyme is added, the mixture is heated to 30-40 ℃, enzymolysis is carried out under the assistance of 500 plus 1000Hz ultrasonic wave, after reaction is carried out for 2-4h, enzyme deactivation is carried out at 105 plus 110 ℃ for 10-15min, centrifugation is carried out at 3000 plus 5000r/min for 10-20min, and the liquid is concentrated to the relative density of 1.2-1.5 by an ultrafiltration membrane, thus obtaining the euglena extract; the compound enzyme consists of cellulase, pectinase, xylanase and beta-1, 3(4) -glucan exonuclease, and the mass ratio is 1: (0.5-1): (0.2-0.5): (0.1-0.3), the enzyme activity is 50-100U/g, 5-10U/g, 100-120U/g and 70-100U/g respectively.
As a further improvement of the present invention, the preparation method of the kelp extract specifically comprises: drying the kelp, and then crushing the kelp into 100-200 meshes according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: (5-7) mixing g/mL with a dilute acid solution, heating to 35-45 ℃, performing ultrasonic-assisted extraction at 1000-1500W for 1-3h, filtering, adding ammonia water to adjust the pH value to be neutral, drying to remove water, repeatedly washing the solid with water, and drying to remove water to obtain a kelp extract; the dilute acid solution is 0.1-0.5mol/L dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid solution.
The invention further provides a preparation method of the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive.
The invention further provides a whitening cosmetic which comprises the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive.
As a further improvement of the invention, the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive is added in an amount of 5-15 wt%.
As a further improvement of the invention, the whitening cosmetics comprise skin cream, skin lotion, moisturizing water, skin essence, facial mask liquid or facial cleanser.
The cosmetic also comprises a preservative, preferably, the preservative comprises one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol, pentanediol, benzoic acid and propyl hydroxybenzoate, and more preferably one or two of methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol.
The invention has the following beneficial effects: the invention provides a cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin, which comprises algae extracts as main components, wherein the algae extracts comprise nostoc sphaeroides extract, phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, nostoc commune extract, euglena extract and kelp extract, active substances of the algae extracts are extracted by different extraction methods according to the characteristics of different algae respectively, nostoc sphaeroides contains abundant polysaccharides and protein substances, after freezing and thawing, cell walls are punctured, so that most phycobiliproteins and polysaccharides are dissolved out, and the extracts obtained after concentration contain abundant phycobiliproteins and polysaccharides, so that the cosmetic additive has excellent effects of ultraviolet resistance, inflammation diminishing, moisture preservation and the like; the phaeodactylum tricornutum adopts a repeated freezing and thawing method to break the cell wall, dissolve out fucoxanthin, polysaccharide and the like in the cell, and the extract obtained after concentration has excellent effects of diminishing inflammation, preserving moisture and resisting allergy; the nostoc commune is extracted by a water extraction and alcohol precipitation method to extract a large amount of polysaccharide substances in the nostoc commune so as to improve the skin moisturizing effect of the nostoc commune; the euglena is subjected to enzymolysis by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted enzymolysis method, the enzymolysis efficiency is improved by adopting ultrasonic waves through cellulase, pectinase, xylanase and beta-1, 3(4) -glucan exoenzyme, terpenoids, polysaccharides, polyphenol and protein substances are extracted, and therefore the effects of improving moisture, eliminating color spots, whitening and the like are achieved; the kelp contains rich polysaccharide substances, the polysaccharide in the kelp is extracted by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted acid extraction method, the extraction rate is improved by 10 times, and the obtained kelp polysaccharide has excellent effects of oxidation resistance, moisture preservation and the like;
by adding the melanin inhibiting additive in a reasonable proportion, the moisturizing and water locking effects of the cosmetics can be prolonged to 5-7h, the skin moisture can be deeply locked by adding the melanin inhibiting additive into the cosmetics, the skin moisture can be kept for a long time even in an environment with low relative humidity, and the skin cannot be dried and lack of water due to the influence of the environment, so that the moisture content and the moisturizing degree of the skin can be kept for a long time, the skin elasticity is improved, all the components are plant extracts, and the skin moisturizing and water locking effects are safe and have small irritation; can inhibit the formation of melanin at different stages, thereby having synergistic effect on the inhibition of melanin, slowing down the deposition of melanin and improving the whitening effect. In addition, the beverage also has good effects of removing freckles, resisting allergy, resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet rays and the like, and has wide application prospect.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Nostoc sphaeroides (Latin name: Pogostemon auricularia (L.) Kassk; academic name: Nostoc sphaeroides) is commonly called as Nostoc sphaeroides, loosestrife and field edible fungus. Nostoc sphaeroides, Cyanophyceae. The algae is colloidal, spherical or irregular, and has blue green or yellow brown color. The cells are spherical, and are connected into a moniliform group by a plurality of cells, and are coated with colloid. The nostoc sphaeroides contains 18 amino acids, wherein the nostoc sphaeroides contains eight amino acids necessary for human bodies, the total protein of dry matter, namely the nostoc sphaeroides, is about 56 percent, the crude fat is 8.11 percent, the carbohydrate is 12.69 percent, the ash content is 10.88 percent, the chlorophyll is 30.98mg/g, the ascorbic acid is 5.50mg/g, the content of vitamin C is close to that of fresh jujubes, is more than 5 times higher than that of hawthorn and is 5 times higher than that of oranges; the vitamins B1 and B2 are higher than that of general bacteria and algae, 15 kinds of minerals are contained, the most abundant minerals comprise phosphorus, sulfur, calcium, potassium, iron and the like, the less abundant minerals comprise lead, silicon, magnesium, barium, germanium and the like, the trace elements comprise zinc, copper and manganese, starch and saccharides are also contained, the calcium content of the trace elements is higher than that of general vegetables, and the natural calcium-rich nutritious food is excellent.
Preparation example 1 Nostoc sphaeroides extract
The preparation method specifically comprises the following steps: washing nostoc sphaeroids kutz, drying, crushing to 100 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 7mL of the mixture with water, soaking for 1h, placing the mixture in a freezing chamber, freezing the mixture for 12h at the temperature of minus 20 ℃, taking out the mixture, and unfreezing the mixture to obtain jelly-like paste and purple liquid, wherein the purple liquid is reserved; chewing the jelly-like paste, squeezing to obtain liquid, mixing with the purple liquid, and concentrating with ultrafiltration membrane to relative density of 1.35 to obtain nostoc sphaeroides extract.
Phaeodactylum tricornutum has three different morphologies, egg-shaped, spindle-shaped, and triple-radial, which can be transformed under different environmental conditions.
Preparation example 2 Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract
The preparation method specifically comprises the following steps: cleaning and separating Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells with clear water, and mixing the Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1: mixing 2g/mL with water, placing in a freezing chamber, freezing at-20 deg.C for 10 hr, taking out, thawing, repeating the above steps for 3 times, thawing, centrifuging at 5000r/min for 15min, removing solid, and concentrating with liquid ultrafiltration membrane to relative density of 1.5 to obtain Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract.
The nostoc commune, also called nostoc commune, is rich in protein, various vitamins, phosphorus, zinc, calcium and other minerals, each 100 g of the nostoc commune contains 15 g of protein, which is higher than that of eggs, the nostoc commune, tremella and the like, the total amino acid content is also higher than that of the nostoc commune and hericium erinaceus, and in addition, the nostoc commune contains 0.2 g of fat, 51.2 g of carbohydrate, 3.9 g of crude fiber, 406 mg of calcium and 157 mg of phosphorus. 290 mg of iron is obviously higher than other algae, is a supplement food for the calcium deficiency of children, and is very beneficial to supplementing iron and nourishing blood for human bodies.
Preparation example 3 Nostoc commune extract
The preparation method specifically comprises the following steps: cleaning nostoc commune, drying, crushing to 100 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 10mL of the extract with water, soaking for 1h, heating to boil for 3h, cooling to room temperature, adding anhydrous ethanol with the same volume, continuously stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 3h, filtering, repeatedly washing the obtained precipitate with water, and drying to remove water to obtain the nostoc commune extract.
Euglena, also known as Chlorophyceae, is a unicellular organism that propagates through cell division, residing on CO2 and water, and emits oxygen. Contains abundant nutrient components, such as 59 nutrient elements necessary for human bodies every day, such as vitamins, mineral nutrients, amino acids, unsaturated fatty acids, chlorophyll, lutein, zeaxanthin, GABA and the like, which are all indispensable nutrients for maintaining health. The most important polysaccharide component of Euglena is the specific component of Euglena.
Preparation example 4 extract of Euglena
The preparation method specifically comprises the following steps: 1g of euglena powder in a solid-liquid ratio of 1 g: uniformly mixing 4mL of the euglena extract with 0.1mol/LPBS buffer solution, adjusting the pH value to 7, adding complex enzyme, wherein the adding amount of the complex enzyme is 5% of the total mass of the system, heating to 35 ℃, carrying out enzymolysis under the assistance of 700Hz ultrasonic waves, after reacting for 3 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 105 ℃ for 12min, centrifuging at 4000r/min for 15min, and concentrating the liquid to the relative density of 1.3 by using an ultrafiltration membrane to obtain the euglena extract; the compound enzyme consists of cellulase, pectinase, xylanase and beta-1, 3(4) -glucan exonuclease, and the mass ratio is 1: 0.7: 0.4: 0.2, the enzyme activity is respectively 70U/g, 8U/g, 110U/g and 85U/g.
One of kelp and seaweed plants is a large marine brown seaweed plant growing in low-temperature seawater, belongs to the family Laminariaceae of Phaeophyta, is a plant of the family Zosteraceae, and is named because it grows in seawater and is flexible and similar to it. The kelp is a vegetable with high nutritive value and has certain medicinal value. Every hundred grams of dry kelp contains: 8.2 g of crude protein, 0.1 g of fat, 57 g of sugar, 9.8 g of crude fiber, 12.9 g of inorganic salt, 2.25 g of calcium, 0.15 g of iron, 0.57 mg of carotene, 0.69 mg of thiamine (vitamin B1), 0.36 mg of riboflavin (vitamin B2) and 16 mg of nicotinic acid, and can emit 262 kilocalories of heat. Compared with spinach and rape, the content of crude protein, sugar, calcium and iron is several times or dozens of times higher than that of vitamin C.
Preparation example 5 Laminaria extract
The preparation method specifically comprises the following steps: drying the kelp, crushing to 200 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 5mL with 0.3mol/L diluted hydrochloric acid, heating to 40 deg.C, extracting with 1000W ultrasonic wave for 2 hr, filtering, adding ammonia water to adjust pH to 7, drying to remove water, washing the obtained solid with water repeatedly, and drying to remove water to obtain herba Zosterae Marinae extract.
Comparative preparation example 1
The nostoc sphaeroides active substance is extracted by a water extraction method, and the preparation method comprises the following steps:
washing nostoc sphaeroids kutz, drying, crushing to 100 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 7mL with water, heating to 55 deg.C, extracting for 5h, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to relative density of 1.35 to obtain nostoc sphaeroides water extract.
Comparative preparation example 2
The preparation method for extracting the phaeodactylum tricornutum active substances by adopting a water extraction method comprises the following steps:
cleaning and separating Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells with clear water, and mixing the materials according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 2mL with water, heating to 55 deg.C, extracting for 5h, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to relative density of 1.5 to obtain Phaeodactylum tricornutum water extract.
Comparative preparation example 3
The preparation method of the active substances of the nostoc commune by adopting a water extraction method comprises the following steps:
cleaning nostoc commune, drying, crushing to 100 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 10mL with water, heating to 55 deg.C, extracting for 5 hr, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to relative density of 1.35 to obtain Tremella aqueous extract.
Comparative preparation example 4
Extracting Euglena active substance with water extraction method, the preparation method comprises:
1, mixing euglena powder according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: mixing 4g/mL with water, heating to 55 deg.C, extracting for 5 hr, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to relative density of 1.3 to obtain Euglena water extract.
Comparative preparation example 5
The preparation method of the active substances of the kelp by adopting a water extraction method comprises the following steps:
drying the kelp, crushing to 200 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1 g: mixing 5mL with water, heating to 55 deg.C, extracting for 5 hr, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to relative density of 1.35 to obtain herba Zosterae Marinae water extract.
EXAMPLE 1 cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin
The raw materials comprise the following components in parts by weight:
15 parts of nostoc sphaeroides extract obtained in preparation example 1, 10 parts of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract obtained in preparation example 2, 5 parts of nostoc commune extract obtained in preparation example 3, 2 parts of euglena extract obtained in preparation example 4, and 1 part of kelp extract obtained in preparation example 5.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: and adding the components of the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive into a stirrer, and uniformly stirring and mixing.
Example 2 cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin
The raw materials comprise the following components in parts by weight:
30 parts of nostoc sphaeroides extract obtained in preparation example 1, 20 parts of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract obtained in preparation example 2, 12 parts of nostoc commune extract obtained in preparation example 3, 5 parts of euglena extract obtained in preparation example 4, and 5 parts of kelp extract obtained in preparation example 5.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: adding the components of the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive into a stirrer, and uniformly stirring and mixing
EXAMPLE 3 facial mask solutions
The raw materials comprise the following components in percentage by mass: the cosmetic prepared in example 2 contains 7% of melanin inhibiting additive, 0.5% of preservative phenoxyethanol, 2% of carbomer, 4% of EDTA disodium, 1.5% of squalane, 4% of glycerin and the balance of water.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing raw materials in proportion;
s2, uniformly mixing squalane, preservative phenoxyethanol and glycerol to obtain a material A;
s3, adding the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive and EDTA disodium into water, uniformly mixing, adding the material A and carbomer, and homogenizing at 10000r/min for 2min to obtain the facial mask liquid.
Comparative example 1
Compared with example 3, the nostoc sphaeroides extract obtained in preparation example 1 was not added to the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive, and other conditions were not changed.
The raw materials of the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive comprise the following components in parts by weight:
50 parts of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract prepared in preparation example 2, 12 parts of nostoc commune extract prepared in preparation example 3, 5 parts of euglena extract prepared in preparation example 4, and 5 parts of kelp extract prepared in preparation example 5.
Comparative example 2
Compared with example 3, the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive does not contain the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract prepared in preparation example 2, and other conditions are not changed.
The raw materials of the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive comprise the following components in parts by weight:
50 parts of nostoc sphaeroides extract obtained in preparation example 2, 12 parts of nostoc commune extract obtained in preparation example 3, 5 parts of euglena extract obtained in preparation example 4 and 5 parts of kelp extract obtained in preparation example 5.
Comparative example 3
In comparison with example 3, the nostoc sphaeroides extract in the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive was replaced with the nostoc sphaeroides water extract prepared in comparative preparation example 1, and the other conditions were not changed.
Comparative example 4
In comparison with example 3, the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract in the cosmetic melanin-inhibiting additive was replaced with the aqueous extract of phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared in comparative preparation example 2, and the other conditions were not changed.
Comparative example 5
Compared with example 3, the extract of Nostoc commune in the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive was replaced with the water extract of Nostoc commune prepared in comparative preparation example 3, and the other conditions were not changed.
Comparative example 6
In comparison with example 3, the gymnema algae extract in the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive was replaced with the gymnema algae water extract prepared in comparative preparation example 4, and other conditions were not changed.
Comparative example 7
In comparison with example 3, the kelp extract in the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive was replaced with the kelp water extract prepared in comparative preparation example 5, and the other conditions were not changed.
Test example 1 moisturizing effect on skin
1. Test materials: the facial mask solutions prepared in example 3 and comparative examples 1-7 were combined with similar moisturizing facial mask solutions available on the market, and the blank was applied with an equal amount of saline.
2. Test subjects: volunteers between 18-45 years of age.
3. The test method comprises the following steps:
cleaning the back of the hand with clean water at room temperature of 25 ℃ and relative humidity of 50%, and evenly spreading different samples to be tested into a square shape of 3 multiplied by 3 cm. Selecting a blank group, and applying non-woven cotton soaked with normal saline on a specified skin part; in other examples and comparative examples, the mask prepared by the corresponding method is applied to the designated skin part, each object to be tested is removed after 30min and 60min respectively, and the skin of the subject applied with the mask is measured by a digital skin moisture tester 0, 60, 120 and 240min after the mask is removed, so as to obtain the skin moisture content.
4. And (3) test results: the test results are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 Effect of the mask on skin moisture content
Figure BDA0002847697370000101
Figure BDA0002847697370000111
And (4) conclusion:
(1) the water content of the skin before and after the application of the blank group is not obviously different and basically kept between 28 and 32 percent, which indicates that the normal saline has no water replenishing effect;
(2) the mask liquid prepared in the embodiment 3 can enable the moisture content of the skin to reach more than 60% within 0min after the mask is removed, can keep the moisture of the skin to be more than 47% within 240min after the mask is removed, and has remarkable moisturizing effect; the application time is 60min, and the moisture content of the skin is not obviously reduced after 0min after the mask is removed compared with the application time of 30min, which shows that the moisture-supplementing and moisture-preserving mask can not cause the phenomenon that the moisture is absorbed by the mask within 60min so that the nutrient substances dissolved in the water are lost along with the absorption of the moisture, and is obviously superior to the similar products sold in the market;
(3) in comparative examples 1-2, nostoc sphaeroides extract and phaeodactylum tricornutum extract are not added respectively, so that the moisturizing effect is remarkably reduced, and thus the nostoc sphaeroides extract and the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract contain abundant polysaccharide and protein substances, and the polysaccharide and the protein can be combined with each other to form a natural film layer on the surface of the skin by adding the nostoc sphaeroides extract and the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract simultaneously, so that the skin is protected, the water loss of the skin is prevented, and the synergistic effect;
(4) in comparative examples 3-7, the nostoc sphaeroides water extract, the agaric water extract, the euglena water extract and the kelp water extract which are respectively extracted by the common method are adopted, compared with the extraction method, the prepared extracts have the advantage that the moisturizing effect is obviously reduced, so that the moisturizing effect of the facial mask liquid is influenced.
Test example 2 speckle-removing and whitening effect test
Sample group: facial mask solution prepared in example 3.
Control group: the contrast 1-7 groups are the facial mask liquids prepared in the comparative examples 1-7, and the contrast 8 group is the commercially available freckle-removing and whitening facial mask liquid.
Subject: the total number of 30 persons, male 0 person, female 30 persons, age 32-54 years, meet the volunteer selection criteria of the subject.
Principle of skin melanin and heme testing:
mexameter MX18 is based on the principle of spectral absorption (RGB) and determines the amount of melanin and hemoglobin in the skin by measuring the amount of reflectance of light of a particular wavelength on human skin. The emitter of the instrument probe emits light with three wavelengths of 568nm, 660nm and 880nm to the skin surface, and the receiver measures the light reflected from the skin. Since the amount of emitted light is constant, the amount of light absorbed by the skin can be measured, and the content of melanin and hemoglobin in the skin can be measured. The measurement range of the instrument is 0-999, and the higher the measurement value, the higher the content of melanin and heme in the skin is.
5. The test method comprises the following steps:
before the test subject coats the sample, the test part is cleaned, dried and coated with the sample. Subject left and right cheek cycle markers in order: areas of 4X 4cm size were used as test and blank control areas; the subjects used the test article twice a day in the morning and evening in the experimental area, during which time the subjects were unable to apply any other cosmetic product to the experimental site. Subjects after one, two, three and four weeks of continuous use of the test article, the subjects washed the smears at the same time each week, and the content of the smears was measured by the tester using a Mexameter MX18 tester and a MicroSkin II multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system. Five measurements were taken per spot and averaged. The results are shown in Table 2.
Melanin reduction rate (%) [ the melanin content (%) -first melanin content (%) ] ÷ first melanin content (%) × 100%
Relative melanin reduction (%) -melanin reduction (%) in the sample group-melanin reduction (%) in the control group 8 group%
Table 2 comparison of results for each group of test substances
Figure BDA0002847697370000121
Figure BDA0002847697370000131
Figure BDA0002847697370000141
And (4) conclusion:
(1) after the sample group and the comparison groups 1-8 are used, the melanin content is reduced and shows an increasing trend along with the time, the rate of reducing the melanin content of the sample group is obviously better than that of the comparison group 5, after four weeks, the relative melanin reduction rate reaches 49.48%, so that the freckle removing effect of the sample group is obviously better than that of the comparison group, and the freckle removing effect is durable.
(2) The contrast groups 1-2 are not added with the nostoc sphaeroides extract and the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract respectively, the reduction rate and the degree of the melanin content are obviously lower than those of the sample groups but better than those of the contrast groups 6 and 7, so that the nostoc sphaeroides extract contains phycobiliprotein, the melanin deposition can be delayed, and a good ultraviolet resistant effect is achieved, while the fucoxanthin in the phaeodactylum tricornutum has good effects of resisting oxidation and inhibiting the melanin generation, so that the whitening and spot lightening effects can be achieved to a certain extent, and the addition of the two has a synergistic effect;
(3) the contrast 3-5 groups respectively adopt common methods to extract the nostoc sphaeroides water extract, the phaeodactylum tricornutum water extract and the nostoc commune water extract, the melanin reduction rate and degree are reduced, but the reduction is not obvious, so that the extract prepared by the invention has a certain whitening effect;
(4) compared with the compositions 6 and 7, the euglena water extract and the kelp water extract are respectively extracted by adopting a common method, the reduction rate and the degree of melanin are obviously reduced, and the addition of the euglena extract and the kelp extract extracted by the invention has an obvious promotion effect on skin health and has obvious whitening and freckle removing effects.
Test example 3 Patch test
1. The test substance: facial mask solution prepared in example 3.
2. Negative control: deionized water.
3. Subject: the total of 30 people, male 0 person and female 30 people, the age is 19-42 years, and the volunteer enrollment criteria of the subject are met.
4. The spot pasting method comprises the following steps: a qualified spot tester is selected, a closed spot test method is adopted, a tested substance and a negative control about 0.020-0.025 mL (semifluid) are dripped into the spot tester, an external special adhesive tape is pasted on the back of the tested substance, the tested substance is removed after 24 hours, skin reactions are observed after 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the tested substance is removed respectively, and the results are recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in the cosmetic hygiene Specification (2007 edition). The test results are shown in table 3:
TABLE 3 test results of human skin patches
Figure BDA0002847697370000151
The result of the human body skin patch test shows that: adverse skin reactions occurred in 0 of 30 people; the facial mask liquid of the invention is safe to use.
Compared with the prior art, the invention provides a cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin, which mainly comprises algae extracts including nostoc sphaeroides extract, phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, nostoc commune extract, euglena extract and kelp extract, active substances of the cosmetic additive are extracted by different extraction methods according to the characteristics of different algae respectively, nostoc sphaeroides contains abundant polysaccharides and protein substances, after freezing and thawing, cell walls are punctured, so that most phycobiliproteins and polysaccharides are dissolved out, and the extract obtained after concentration contains abundant phycobiliproteins and polysaccharides, thereby having excellent effects of ultraviolet resistance, inflammation diminishing, moisture preservation and the like; the phaeodactylum tricornutum adopts a repeated freezing and thawing method to break the cell wall, dissolve out fucoxanthin, polysaccharide and the like in the cell, and the extract obtained after concentration has excellent effects of diminishing inflammation, preserving moisture and resisting allergy; the nostoc commune is extracted by a water extraction and alcohol precipitation method to extract a large amount of polysaccharide substances in the nostoc commune so as to improve the skin moisturizing effect of the nostoc commune; the euglena is subjected to enzymolysis by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted enzymolysis method, the enzymolysis efficiency is improved by adopting ultrasonic waves through cellulase, pectinase, xylanase and beta-1, 3(4) -glucan exoenzyme, terpenoids, polysaccharides, polyphenol and protein substances are extracted, and therefore the effects of improving moisture, eliminating color spots, whitening and the like are achieved; the kelp contains rich polysaccharide substances, the polysaccharide in the kelp is extracted by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted acid extraction method, the extraction rate is improved by 10 times, and the obtained kelp polysaccharide has excellent effects of oxidation resistance, moisture preservation and the like;
by adding the melanin inhibiting additive in a reasonable proportion, the moisturizing and water locking effects of the cosmetics can be prolonged to 5-7h, the skin moisture can be deeply locked by adding the melanin inhibiting additive into the cosmetics, the skin moisture can be kept for a long time even in an environment with low relative humidity, and the skin cannot be dried and lack of water due to the influence of the environment, so that the moisture content and the moisturizing degree of the skin can be kept for a long time, the skin elasticity is improved, all the components are plant extracts, and the skin moisturizing and water locking effects are safe and have small irritation; can inhibit the formation of melanin at different stages, thereby having synergistic effect on the inhibition of melanin, slowing down the deposition of melanin and improving the whitening effect. In addition, the beverage also has good effects of removing freckles, resisting allergy, resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet rays and the like, and has wide application prospect.
The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents, improvements and the like that fall within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included therein.

Claims (10)

1. A cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin is characterized by comprising Nostoc sphaeroids Kutz extract, Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, Nostoc sphaeroids Kutz extract, and one or two of Euglena extract and Laminaria japonica extract;
preferably, the cosmetic melanin inhibiting additive is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 15-30 parts of nostoc sphaeroides extract, 10-20 parts of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, 5-12 parts of nostoc commune extract, 2-5 parts of euglena extract and 1-5 parts of kelp extract;
the nostoc sphaeroides extract is prepared by a freeze-thawing method; the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is prepared by adopting a repeated freeze thawing method; the nostoc commune extract is prepared by adopting a water body alcohol precipitation method; the euglena extract is prepared by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted enzymolysis method; the kelp extract is prepared by adopting an ultrasonic-assisted acid extraction method.
2. The cosmetic melanin-inhibiting additive according to claim 1, wherein the nostoc sphaeroides extract is prepared by a method comprising: washing nostoc sphaeroides, drying, crushing to 100-200 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1: (5-10) g/mL is mixed with water, soaked for 0.5-1h, placed in a freezing chamber, frozen at (-5) - (-20) DEG C for 10-12h, taken out and thawed to obtain jelly-like paste and purple liquid, wherein the purple liquid is reserved; chewing the jelly-like paste, squeezing to obtain liquid, mixing with the purple liquid, and concentrating with ultrafiltration membrane to relative density of 1.2-1.5 to obtain Nostoc sphaeroides extract.
3. The cosmetic melanin-inhibiting additive according to claim 1, wherein the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is prepared by a method comprising: cleaning and separating Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells with clear water, and mixing the Phaeodactylum tricornutum cells according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1: (1-3) g/mL is mixed with water, the mixture is placed in a freezing chamber, frozen for 10-12h at (-15) - (-20) DEG C, taken out and unfrozen, the process is repeated for 2-3 times, after unfreezing, centrifugation is carried out for 10-15min at 3000 and 5000r/min, solids are removed, and liquid ultrafiltration membrane is concentrated to the relative density of 1.2-1.5, so as to obtain the phaeodactylum tricornutum extract.
4. The cosmetic melanin-inhibiting additive according to claim 1, wherein the agaric extract is prepared by a method comprising: cleaning nostoc commune, drying, crushing to 100-200 meshes, and mixing according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: (5-10) g/mL of the extract is mixed with water, soaked for 0.5-1h, heated to boil for 1-3h, cooled to room temperature, added with absolute ethyl alcohol with the same volume, continuously stirred and uniformly mixed, kept stand for 1-3h, filtered, repeatedly washed with water and dried to obtain the nostoc commune extract.
5. The cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin according to claim 1, wherein the extract of Euglena is prepared by a method comprising: 1, mixing euglena powder according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: (2-5) g/mL and PBS buffer solution are mixed uniformly, the pH is 6.8-7.2, complex enzyme is added, the mixture is heated to 30-40 ℃, enzymolysis is carried out under the assistance of 500 plus 1000Hz ultrasonic wave, after reaction is carried out for 2-4h, enzyme deactivation is carried out at 105 plus 110 ℃ for 10-15min, centrifugation is carried out at 3000 plus 5000r/min for 10-20min, and the liquid is concentrated to the relative density of 1.2-1.5 by an ultrafiltration membrane, thus obtaining the euglena extract; the compound enzyme consists of cellulase, pectinase, xylanase and beta-1, 3(4) -glucan exonuclease, and the mass ratio is 1: (0.5-1): (0.2-0.5): (0.1-0.3), the enzyme activity is 50-100U/g, 5-10U/g, 100-120U/g and 70-100U/g respectively.
6. The cosmetic additive for inhibiting melanin according to claim 1, wherein the preparation method of the kelp extract comprises: drying the kelp, and then crushing the kelp into 100-200 meshes according to a solid-liquid ratio of 1: (5-7) mixing g/mL with dilute acid solution, heating to 35-45 ℃, performing ultrasonic-assisted extraction at 1000-1500W for 1-3h, filtering, adding ammonia water to adjust pH value to be neutral, drying to remove water, repeatedly washing solid with water, and drying to obtain herba Zosterae Marinae extract; the dilute acid solution is 0.1-0.5mol/L dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid solution.
7. A method of preparing a cosmetic melanin-inhibiting additive as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the cosmetic melanin-inhibiting additive.
8. A whitening cosmetic comprising the melanin inhibiting additive according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
9. The whitening cosmetic of claim 8, wherein the melanin inhibiting additive is added in an amount of 5 to 15 wt%.
10. The whitening cosmetic of claim 8, wherein the cosmetic comprises a skin cream, a skin lotion, a moisturizing lotion, a skin essence, a facial mask solution or a face cleanser.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN116212007A (en) * 2023-04-21 2023-06-06 甘肃省中医院 Bone-knitting and tendon-softening traditional Chinese medicine composition for treating metaphase fracture and preparation method thereof

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN116212007A (en) * 2023-04-21 2023-06-06 甘肃省中医院 Bone-knitting and tendon-softening traditional Chinese medicine composition for treating metaphase fracture and preparation method thereof
CN116212007B (en) * 2023-04-21 2023-11-24 甘肃省中医院 Bone-knitting and tendon-softening traditional Chinese medicine composition for treating metaphase fracture and preparation method thereof

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