CN111449989A - 一种美白保湿洁颜粉及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种美白保湿洁颜粉及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111449989A CN111449989A CN202010405729.2A CN202010405729A CN111449989A CN 111449989 A CN111449989 A CN 111449989A CN 202010405729 A CN202010405729 A CN 202010405729A CN 111449989 A CN111449989 A CN 111449989A
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- whitening
- baicalin
- moisturizing
- cleansing powder
- tea saponin
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种美白保湿洁颜粉及其制备方法。原料包括茶皂素10‑30份，黄芩苷，聚乙二醇‑400，吐温80，羟丙基甲基纤维素，透明质酸钠及木糖醇。制备方法为：将茶皂素加入到乙醇中，超声加热，过滤后得到滤液；将吐温80加入到滤液中边搅拌边加入木糖醇、透明质酸钠及羟丙基甲基纤维素的混合物，制得A相；将聚乙二醇‑400加入到黄芩苷中混合均匀，制得B相；将A相与B相混合，超声加热，旋转蒸发，完成后取出干燥。本发明制备的洁颜粉装载了黄芩苷纳米胶束，提高了黄芩苷在水相中的溶解度，从而解决了黄芩苷在化妆品领域应用的局限性，使其能在应用的化妆品领域里效果更佳，并且携带方便，适合居家及旅行替代一般的洗面奶使用。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种以茶皂素装载黄芩苷制备的纳米胶束为主要成分的美白保湿洁颜粉，属于化妆品技术领域。
背景技术
市场上常见的洗面奶有皂基型和氨基酸。氨基酸型洗面奶温和、不刺激，但是使它的清洁能力受到了一定影响，合成表面活性剂也是氨基酸洗面奶里常规添加的主要成分之一，然而化学合成的表面活性剂有低效、环境不友好、低生物降解、有毒有害等缺点。皂基洗面奶洗完脸后，多数人会感觉脸部特别的干涩、紧绷不舒服，对于干性以及敏感性皮肤的人来说，还可能出现皮肤起皮、毛细血管扩张皮肤变红等情况。这些洗面奶还有产品久置分层、携带不方便等缺点。随着美容行业的发展，洁颜粉由于其在使用便利性及配方可调节范围大等优势，逐渐在清洁面部皮肤上占领了较大一部分市场。但是目前市面上大多数洁颜粉是由混合物直接混合制而成，这样简单混合可能会造成洁颜粉中主要功能物质分散不均匀，利用率低。
茶皂素(Tea Saponin，TAS)是从山茶油压榨后的茶籽饼中提取的一种五环三萜类化合物，由皂苷配基、甙元、配糖体或有机酸组构成。它是一种性能优良的天然非离子表面活性剂，不仅具有良好的发泡、乳化、渗透、润滑、分散等活性作用，而且还具有消炎、镇痛、杀菌、止痒等药理作用。
黄芩苷具有较好的抗氧化能力，可清除自由基、超氧阴离子等氧自由基，抑制黄嘌呤氧化酶活性，是良好的抗氧化剂。但由于黄芩苷较差的水溶性和脂溶性，在药品、保健品及化妆品中均难以溶解因而也不利于运送及吸收，限制了其使用。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是：现有洁颜粉的干涩、紧绷问题以及黄芩苷在使用过程中存在的水溶性差缺陷。
为了解决上述问题，本发明采用了如下的技术方案：
一种美白保湿洁颜粉，其特征在于，原料包括以重量份数计的茶皂素10-30份，黄芩苷1-5份，聚乙二醇-400 1-2份，吐温80 3-5份，羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1-0.3份，透明质酸钠0.05-0.1份及木糖醇0.1-0.3份。
优选地，原料包括以重量份数计的茶皂素20份，黄芩苷2份，聚乙二醇-400 2份，吐温80 3份，羟丙基甲基纤维素0.2份，透明质酸钠0.1份及木糖醇0.2份。
优选地，所述茶皂素的纯度≥90％。
优选地，所述黄芩苷的纯度≥90％。
优选地，所述聚乙二醇-400和吐温80为辅助表面活性剂，所述茶皂素与辅助表面活性剂的重量比为(1.5-7.5)：1。
本发明还提供了上述所述的美白保湿洁颜粉的制备方法，其特征在于，将茶皂素加入到乙醇中，超声加热，过滤后得到滤液；将吐温80加入到滤液中搅拌3-15min，边搅拌边加入木糖醇、透明质酸钠及羟丙基甲基纤维素的混合物，制得A相；将聚乙二醇-400加入到黄芩苷中混合均匀，制得B相；将A相与B相混合，超声加热，然后用旋转蒸发仪进行旋转蒸发，完成后取出干燥，即得美白保湿洁颜粉。
优选地，所述乙醇的体积浓度为0％-95％；所述茶皂素与乙醇的质量比为(1-3)：20。
优选地，所述茶皂素与乙醇的混合条件为25℃-65℃超声加热20-45min；所述A相与B相的混合条件为：30℃-80℃超声加热20min-60min。
优选地，所述旋转蒸发的温度为30℃-70℃，时间为30-60min。
优选地，所述保湿洁颜粉研磨均匀、过筛后，装入容器中。
本发明提供了一种以茶皂素为主要壁材和及黄芩苷为芯材制备的纳米胶束为主要功能成分的美白保湿洁颜粉，本产品使用的纳米胶束壁材为非离子型表面活性剂茶皂素，与黄芩苷形成纳米胶束后，既可以使提高黄芩苷溶解度，又能够增加清洁力度，并且减少对皮肤的损伤，适用于各种肤质。
本发明产品中原料物质性能介绍：
茶皂素：茶皂素(Tea Saponin，TAS)，又称茶皂苷，是一类从茶籽饼中提取的五环三萜类糖苷化合物的总称，是一种天然非离子表面活性剂，具有稳泡、分散、去污、乳化、润湿等功能，还具有抗菌消炎、抗氧化、抗高血压、杀虫等生理活性，其应用涉及农业、日化、食品、医药等领域。茶皂素不仅能够消除外源性氧自由基，还可以通过对CAT、DPPH、GSH-PX、MDA、SOD、羟基等自由基含量的调节，发挥其抗氧化作用。与化学合成的表面活性剂相比，具有高效、对环境友好、高生物降解、无毒无公害等优点。
黄芩苷：黄芩苷为黄芩主要的活性成分之一，是一种黄酮类化合物，几乎不溶于水。具有抑菌、抗炎、降压、抗变态反应等药理作用，临床上可用于肺炎、脑缺血、肝炎、感染和肿瘤等疾病治疗。黄芩苷能吸收紫外线，清除氧自由基，同时抑制黑色素的生成，具有较强的抗氧化能力，可清除自由基、超氧阴离子等氧自由基，抑制黄嘌呤氧化酶活性，是良好的抗氧化剂。黄芩苷既可用于医药，也可用于化妆品，是一种功能性美容化妆品原料。
聚乙二醇-400：简称peg-400，无色或几乎无色的黏稠液体，为环氧乙烷和水开环聚合而成。可作为有较高要求的热载体，在日用化学工业中用作保湿剂、无机盐增溶剂、粘度调节剂，在工业中还用作柔软剂、抗静电剂、润湿剂。
聚山梨酯80：为淡黄色至橙黄色的粘稠液体，味微苦略涩。为非离子型表面活性剂，亲水性强，一类优良的O/W型乳化剂，高浓度电解质和pH值的改变对其乳化能力影响很小。对植物油、矿物油、动物油脂等均有良好的乳化作用。在水、乙醇、甲醇或醋酸乙酯中易溶，在矿物油中极微溶解。广泛应用于液体、半固体、固体制剂中，作为乳化剂、增溶剂、湿润剂、分散剂和稳定剂使用。
羟丙基甲基纤维素：是一种白色或稍带微黄色的粉末，而且无嗅、无味、无毒。能溶于冷水和有机物混合的溶剂，形成透明的粘稠溶液。水溶液具有表面活性，高透明度、强稳定性，在水中溶解不受pH影响。在洗发水、沐浴露中起增稠、抗冻效果，对头发、皮肤有保水性和良好的成膜性。
透明质酸钠：是人体内一种固有的成分,是一种葡聚糖醛酸，皮肤的湿润水平与透明质酸含量密切相关，随着年龄的增长，皮肤中透明质酸含量下降，使皮肤保水功能减弱,产生皱纹。透明质酸钠水溶液具有较强的黏弹性和润滑性,涂于皮肤表面,可形成一层保湿透气膜,保持皮肤滋润亮泽。小分子透明质酸能渗透到真皮层，促进血液微循环，有利于皮肤对营养物质的吸收，起到美容抗皱的保健作用。
生物木糖醇：又称戊五醇，为糖醇的一种,是一种可以作为蔗糖替代物的五碳糖醇，是从白桦树、橡树、玉米芯、甘蔗渣等植物中提取出来的一种天然植物甜味剂，能参与人体代谢，进入血液后，不需胰岛素就能透入细胞而且代谢速度快。木糖醇是一种多元醇，可作为化妆品类的湿润调整剂使用，对人体皮肤无刺激作用。
与现有技术对比，本发明的有益效果如下：
(1)与市售洁颜粉相比，本产品并不是将表面活性剂与功能物质简单地混合在一起，而是先以茶皂素装载黄芩苷制作成纳米胶束，再与其他相应物质复配得到产品。传统黄芩苷受限于其水溶性差的特点，性质不稳定，易从产品中析出而降低使用效果。茶皂素是一种良好的乳化剂和分散剂且具有增溶作用，使得黄芩苷不易析出，使产品更加稳定。
(2)与普通的洁颜粉相比，本产品以茶皂素装载黄芩苷制作成纳米胶束为主要成分，易于传送和吸收，纳米胶束协同作用提高美白效果。
(3)本产品使用表面活性剂复配，增加了产品清洁能力。
(4)本产品与普通洁颜粉相比，不需要揉搓遇水即可起泡沫，使用更方便。
(5)本产品与传统美白洗面奶相比，因为洁颜粉不含水，不易滋生微生物细菌，且茶皂素本身就有抑菌作用，所以无需合成防腐剂。而且，因为不需要加入营造质感、触感和加强清洁力等的复杂成分，所以相对来说成分更单纯，更安全，且易于携带。
附图说明
图1为黄芩苷的工作曲线。
具体实施方式
为使本发明更明显易懂，兹以优选实施例，并配合附图作详细说明如下。
实施例1-3与对比例1-3
分别制作实施例1，对比例1；实施例2，对比例2；实施例3，对比例3六种洁颜粉。
各实施例和各对比例的配方如表1所示(黄芩苷的工作曲线如图1所示)。
表1
在上海市某学校挑选120名成人志愿者(试用者均有不同程度的晒黑，干燥，症状)进行测试。
将志愿者分为六组。每组20人。分别进行实施例1，对比例1，实施例2，对比例2，实施例3，对比例3测试。分10级评价美白效果、保湿效果，清洁力然后记录统计各志一个月后记录实验效果，取平均值。
各实施例和各对比例的测试结果如表2所示。
表2
| 功效 | 美白效果 | 滋润保湿效果 | 清洁力 |
| 实施例1 | 6.12 | 7.33 | 5.89 |
| 对比例1 | 5.48 | 7.54 | 5.74 |
| 实施例2 | 7.12 | 8.21 | 7.56 |
| 对比例2 | 7.23 | 4.32 | 7.32 |
| 实施例3 | 6.34 | 7.31 | 8.12 |
| 对比例3 | 6.72 | 6.94 | 8.04 |
由上述测试结果可知，本发明洁颜粉主要有黄芩苷，透明质酸钠，木糖醇三种物质协同作用的美白保湿，与对比例中只使用两种相比，美白，滋润保湿效果更明显。实施例2的滋润和美白效果最好，是因为其黄芩苷含量较高且透明质酸钠与木糖醇含量均较高。实施例3的清洁力最好，但美白效果和滋润效果较实施例2弱。所以综合评价最高的为实施例2。
泡沫性能测试：
将实施例1、实施例2、实施例3的美白保湿洁颜粉进行发泡性能测试，参考《表面活性剂洗涤剂试验方法》(GB/T 13173-2008)，发泡性能测试结果如下。
由测试可知：实施例1泡沫高度为158.5mm，实施例2泡沫高度为172.5mm，实施例3泡沫高度为169.0mm，实施例1、实施例2、实施例3的洁颜粉有良好的发泡性能，均高于对比例，且实施例2优于实施例1和实施例3。
表面活性剂复配对黄芩苷的增溶性能测试：
用紫外分光光度计法制作黄芩苷的标准曲线，经过换算的浓度与吸光度工作曲线如图1所示。将实施例及对比例分别同取黄芩苷浓度为2mg/mL理论加入量测试其吸光度，计算得出黄芩苷在水中实际溶解的量，对比例1中未加入黄芩苷，所以无需测试此例的黄芩苷浓度。实施例1-3、对比例2-3的黄芩苷含量分别为0.82、1.73、1.31、1.92、1.64mg/mL，其中实施例2和对比例2的黄芩苷含量最高，其次是对比例3，黄芩苷本身几乎不溶于水，与茶皂素及相应原料的配比制备对黄芩苷的增溶起到很大作用。实施例3耗费的茶皂素比例高，所以实施例2是更合适投入生产的方案。通过纳米胶束的制备黄芩苷的量会增溶更多，更适合用于最终使用水相为介质的化妆品或洗护产品中。
Claims (10)
1.一种美白保湿洁颜粉，其特征在于，原料包括以重量份数计的茶皂素10-30份，黄芩苷1-5份，聚乙二醇-400 1-2份，吐温80 3-5份，羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1-0.3份，透明质酸钠0.05-0.1份及木糖醇0.1-0.3份。
2.如权利要求1所述的美白保湿洁颜粉，其特征在于，原料包括以重量份数计的茶皂素20份，黄芩苷2份，聚乙二醇-400 2份，吐温80 3份，羟丙基甲基纤维素0.2份，透明质酸钠0.1份及木糖醇0.2份。
3.如权利要求1或2所述美白保湿洁颜粉，其特征在于，所述茶皂素的纯度≥90％。
4.如权利要求1所述的美白保湿洁颜粉，其特征在于，所述黄芩苷的纯度≥90％。
5.如权利要求1所述的美白保湿洁颜粉，其特征在于，所述聚乙二醇-400和吐温80为辅助表面活性剂，所述茶皂素与辅助表面活性剂的重量比为(1.5-7.5)：1。
6.权利要求1-5任意一项所述的美白保湿洁颜粉的制备方法，其特征在于，将茶皂素加入到乙醇中，超声加热，过滤后得到滤液；将吐温80加入到滤液中搅拌3-15min，边搅拌边加入木糖醇、透明质酸钠及羟丙基甲基纤维素的混合物，制得A相；将聚乙二醇-400加入到黄芩苷中混合均匀，制得B相；将A相与B相混合，超声加热，然后用旋转蒸发仪进行旋转蒸发，完成后取出干燥，即得美白保湿洁颜粉。
7.如权利要求6所述的美白保湿洁颜粉的制备方法，其特征在于，所述乙醇的体积浓度为0％-95％；所述茶皂素与乙醇的质量比为(1-3)：20。
8.如权利要求6所述的美白保湿洁颜粉的制备方法，其特征在于，所述茶皂素与乙醇的混合条件为25℃-65℃超声加热20-45min；所述A相与B相的混合条件为：30℃-80℃超声加热20min-60min。
9.如权利要求6所述的美白保湿洁颜粉的制备方法，其特征在于，所述旋转蒸发的温度为30℃-70℃，时间为30-60min。
10.如权利要求6所述的美白保湿洁颜粉的制备方法，其特征在于，所述保湿洁颜粉研磨均匀、过筛后，装入容器中。
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| CN113456533A (zh) * | 2021-07-27 | 2021-10-01 | 上海应用技术大学 | 一种含黄芩苷-熊果苷胶束的美白洗面奶 |
| CN116178476A (zh) * | 2023-02-23 | 2023-05-30 | 云南西草资源开发有限公司 | 一种茶皂素的制备方法及所得茶皂素产品的用途 |
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