CN111358748B - Mask essence containing date palm seed extract and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Mask essence containing date palm seed extract and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN111358748B
CN111358748B CN202010419893.9A CN202010419893A CN111358748B CN 111358748 B CN111358748 B CN 111358748B CN 202010419893 A CN202010419893 A CN 202010419893A CN 111358748 B CN111358748 B CN 111358748B
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extract
water
seed extract
date palm
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CN111358748A (en
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邓光浩
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Guangzhou Fuzhuang Biotechnology Co., Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a mask essence containing a date palm seed extract and a preparation method thereof, wherein the mask essence comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-10 parts of moisturizing composition and the balance of mask matrix; the moisturizing composition is composed of 5-15 parts of date seed extract, 5-15 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 4-10 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5-10 parts of jellyfish extract, 3-8 parts of lotus extract and 24-60 parts of water. The facial mask essence can remarkably promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, stimulate the generation of aquaporin-3 (AQP3), promote the synthesis of filaggrin, realize water capture, water locking, water activation and water storage, and achieve the instant and long-acting moisturizing effect from inside to outside.

Description

Mask essence containing date palm seed extract and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. More particularly, relates to a mask essence containing a date seed extract and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The skin, as the outermost organ of the human body, plays an important role in protecting and maintaining the normal circulatory metabolism of the human body and the balance of water in the body. The water content of the skin shows dynamic distribution from inside to outside. The water content of the dermis is the maximum and can reach 70-75%, and the water content of the stratum corneum is the minimum and is only 10-20%. When the water content of the stratum corneum is less than 10%, the skin may be dry, desquamated, rough, dull, fine-grained, etc. Therefore, moisturizing is the basis of many effects of skin care products, and has become a key word for skin care. The skin care product has the main effects of improving the hydration degree of the horny layer of the skin, filling the deep water of the skin, maintaining the normal transportation of the water in the skin and simultaneously reducing the loss of the water to the atmosphere through the epidermis.
At present, the main moisturizing ingredients added in the moisturizing cosmetics on the market comprise: 1. the moisture absorbent, such as glycerin, has good moisture absorption capacity and can attract water molecules to stay on the surface layer of the skin, so that the purpose of moisture retention is achieved; 2. the sealant, such as water-soluble components like macromolecular hyaluronic acid and polysaccharides, mineral oil and synthetic grease, can form a film on the skin to reduce the loss of water; 3. natural moisturizing factors such as amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, urea, etc., which bind water and maintain hydration of the stratum corneum; 4. deep repair agents, such as ceramide, phospholipid, cholesterol and other components, are important components of intercellular lipids of corneocytes, and can make up for the missing part of the lipid barrier and improve the lipid barrier function. Most of the existing moisturizing products improve the structure or function of the existing moisturizing products mainly by supplementing the barrier components of the cuticle exogenously, although the existing moisturizing products can quickly replenish water, the existing moisturizing products cannot fundamentally improve the barrier of the cuticle for a long time, and the purpose of replenishing water for a long time in a deep layer is achieved.
The date seed (Phoenix DACTYLIFERA) extract is rich in polyphenol, gallic acid and other ingredients, can slow down the intrinsic aging by slowing down cell division and biological clock type intrinsic aging and providing antioxidant protection and reducing the influence of the environment, and is mainly used for preparing anti-aging products at present. It has not been reported to promote the production of two key moisturizing molecules, hyaluronic acid and aquaporin-3 (AQP 3).
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem that the existing moisturizing product cannot radically and long-term improve the stratum corneum barrier and achieve the defect and the defect of long-term deep moisturizing, and provides a mask essence containing a date seed extract and a preparation method thereof. The facial mask essence can enhance the water storage capacity of skin by promoting the synthesis of hyaluronic acid; by stimulating the generation of aquaporin-3 (AQP3), transmembrane transport of small molecules such as water, glycerol and the like is enhanced, and the small molecules participate in epidermal hydration; by promoting the synthesis of filaggrin, the strength and the appearance of the horny cell are enhanced, the form of the horny layer is promoted to be more compact and complete, the water loss is avoided, and meanwhile, the expression of natural moisturizing factors is promoted from the source. The composition realizes water capture, water locking, water running and water storage through the various ways, and achieves the instant and long-acting moisturizing effect from inside to outside.
The invention aims to provide a mask essence containing a date seed extract, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-10 parts of moisturizing composition and the balance of mask matrix; the moisturizing composition is composed of 5-15 parts of date seed extract, 5-15 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 4-10 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5-10 parts of jellyfish extract, 3-8 parts of lotus extract and 24-60 parts of water.
Further, the moisturizing composition comprises 8-15 parts of date seed extract, 8-15 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 4-10 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5-10 parts of jellyfish extract, 5-8 parts of lotus extract and 30-60 parts of water.
Further, the moisturizing composition comprises 13 parts of date seed extract, 8 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 8 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5 parts of jellyfish extract, 5 parts of lotus extract and the balance of water.
Further, the preparation method of the date seed extract comprises the following steps:
s1, crushing the dried date palm seeds to 20-50 meshes to obtain date palm seed powder;
s2, adding ultrapure water with the volume 8-12 times of the weight of the powder, uniformly mixing, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 15-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
s3, placing the mixed solution obtained in the step S2 in an incubator at 15-25 ℃ for culturing for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and immediately storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
s4, adjusting the fermentation culture product obtained in the step S3 to the concentration of 40-60g/L with ultrapure water, extracting for 1h at 35 ℃ and 150rpm, centrifuging for 20min at 5000r/min, and taking the supernatant to obtain the date seed extract.
Further, the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 3-5: 1.
Further, the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 4: 1.
Further, the inoculation amount of the compound bacteria is 20%; and/or the culture temperature in step S2 is 20 ℃; and/or the incubation time is 3 h.
Further, the main functional components in the lotus extract comprise phenolic substances with the total solid content of 1.33-1.58% (w/w) and water-soluble carbohydrates with the total solid content of 2.29-2.54% (w/w).
Further, the mask matrix comprises 0.1-0.2 part of allantoin, 0.5-1 part of betaine, 1-3 parts of glycerol, 0.1-0.2 part of panthenol, 0.01-0.1 part of carbomer, 1-5 parts of propylene glycol, 0.05-0.15 part of methyl hydroxybenzoate, 0.05-0.1 part of chlorphenesin, 0.05-0.1 part of triethanolamine, 0.005-0.01 part of PPG-12-butanol polyether-161-2 parts of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.001-0.002 part of essence and the balance of water.
The invention also aims to provide a method for preparing the mask essence containing the date palm seed extract, which comprises the following steps:
A) mixing and heating propylene glycol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and chlorphenesin to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
B) adding allantoin, betaine, glycerol, panthenol, carbomer and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 deg.C, homogenizing, stirring for 20min under heat preservation until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 60-70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step S1, and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding triethanolamine, stirring, adding PPG-12-butanol polyether-16, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the moisturizing composition, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and essence, and stirring to obtain facial mask essence.
The skin moisturizing system can be summarized into four main functions of water storage, water activation, water locking and water capture. Water storage: hyaluronic acid in the dermis layer of the skin can absorb a large amount of water, like a water reservoir of the skin, so that the hyaluronic acid provides a reserve for the water moistening of the whole skin and also fills the dermis layer, and the structure of the dermis layer is more complete. Water activation: aquaporins transport small molecules such as water and glycerol across membranes and participate in hydration of the epidermis, a process called as live water. Water locking: the marker proteins of keratinization terminal, such as keratin, loricrin and the like and filaggrin, form the mild degree and the shape of the stratum corneum, and are combined with lipid through covalent bonds to maintain the compactness and the integrity of the stratum corneum morphology, so that the water loss is avoided. Water catching: the natural moisturizing factor in the cells of the stratum corneum is derived from silk fibroin, and when the water activity or the relative humidity is lower than 95%, protease in the cells starts to be activated, so that the silk fibroin is completely degraded into amino acid to form the natural moisturizing factor, and the cells are helped to capture water from the outside.
The date seed extract obtained by the preparation method contains various active ingredients such as polypeptide, active enzyme and the like, and experimental data show that the date seed extract prepared by probiotic fermentation can promote the synthesis of two key moisturizing molecules, namely hyaluronic acid and aquaporin-3 (AQP 3); however, the effect obtained by the date seed extract has not been reported in the prior art.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the date seed extract obtained by the probiotic fermentation method does not contain organic solvent, has good permeability and high safety, and can remarkably promote the synthesis of two key moisturizing molecules, namely hyaluronic acid and aquaporin-3 (AQP 3).
2. According to the invention, the date seed extract, the hydrolyzed pansy extract, the geranium wilfordii extract, the jellyfish extract, CERAMANIL GNBN and the lotus extract are compounded, and the date seed extract absorbs a large amount of water by promoting the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, so that the storage (water storage) is provided for the moisture of the whole skin; meanwhile, the date seed extract can enhance transmembrane transport of small molecules such as water, glycerol and the like by stimulating generation of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and participate in epidermal hydration (running water); on the basis, CERAMANIL GNBN, the hydrolyzed pansy extract, the geranium wilfordii extract and the jellyfish extract are added to further realize water capture, water locking, water flowing and water storage, so that the instant and long-acting moisturizing effect from inside to outside is achieved.
3. The facial mask essence disclosed by the invention has the effects of immediately moisturizing and quickly lubricating the skin after being used, can also obviously improve the barrier function of the skin, reduces the water loss, has no sticky feeling after being absorbed by the skin, and continuously moisturizes, so that the skin is fine, smooth, bright and glossy.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples, which are not intended to limit the invention in any way. Reagents, methods and apparatus used in the present invention are conventional in the art unless otherwise indicated.
Unless otherwise indicated, reagents and materials used in the following examples are commercially available. CERAMANIL GNBN is a compound of water, glycerol, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, and ceramide 3, available from Noran Biotech, Guangzhou; the lotus extract was purchased from ashland (china) investment limited.
Examples 1 to 4 moisturizing compositions (g) containing Phoenix dactylifera seed extract
Figure BDA0002496543870000051
In example 1, the preparation method of the date seed extract comprises the following steps:
s1, crushing the dried date palm seeds to 40 meshes to obtain date palm seed powder;
s2, adding ultrapure water with the volume 10 times of the weight of the powder, uniformly mixing, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating compound bacteria (composed of saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 3: 1), wherein the inoculation amount is 20%, so as to obtain a mixed solution;
s3, placing the mixed solution obtained in the step S2 in an incubator at 20 ℃ for culturing for 36 hours, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48 hours to obtain a fermentation culture product, and immediately storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
s4, adjusting the fermentation culture product obtained in the step S3 to 50g/L with ultrapure water, extracting for 1h at 35 ℃ and 150rpm, centrifuging for 20min at 5000r/min, and taking the supernatant to obtain the date seed extract.
Date seed extracts as described in example 2, example 3 and example 4 were prepared according to the mass ratio of yeast and bacillus in table 1 below, respectively.
TABLE 1 date seed extract preparation parameters
Sample numbering Fermentation strain Weight ratio of
Example 2 date seed extract Yeast and bacillus 4:1
Example 3 date seed extract Yeast and bacillus 5:1
Example 4 date seed extract Yeast and bacillus 3.5:1
Comparative example 1 moisturizing composition
The difference from the example 2 is that the date seed extract is obtained by adopting a conventional extraction method.
The leaching comprises the following specific steps: pulverizing dried semen Ziziphi Spinosae until the particle size is 20-50 mesh (preferably 40 mesh) to obtain semen Ziziphi Spinosae powder; adding water with the weight 30 times that of the date seed powder, soaking for 5h, performing ultrasonic extraction at 65-70 ℃ for 30min, wherein the ultrasonic frequency is 30kHz, filtering to obtain an extract, and concentrating to obtain the date seed powder.
Comparative example 2 moisturizing composition
The difference from example 2 is that only yeast is added to the date seed extract during the preparation process for fermentation.
Comparative example 3 moisturizing composition
The difference from example 2 is that only bacillus is added to the date seed extract during the preparation process for fermentation.
Comparative example 4 moisturizing composition
A moisturizing composition, consisting of the following components: 10g of date seed extract and 90g of water. The preparation method of the date seed extract is the same as that of the date seed extract in example 2.
Comparative example 5 moisturizing composition
A moisturizing composition, consisting of the following components: 10g of hydrolyzed pansy extract and 90g of water.
Comparative example 6 moisturizing composition
A moisturizing composition, consisting of the following components: 10g of geranium wilfordii extract and 90g of water.
Comparative example 7 moisturizing composition
A moisturizing composition, consisting of the following components: CERAMANIL GNBN 10g and water 90 g.
Comparative example 8 moisturizing composition
A moisturizing composition, consisting of the following components: 10g of jellyfish extract and 90g of water.
Comparative example 9 moisturizing composition
A moisturizing composition, consisting of the following components: 10g of lotus extract and 90g of water.
Example 5-8 facial mask essence
Figure BDA0002496543870000061
Figure BDA0002496543870000071
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
A) mixing propylene glycol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and chlorphenesin, heating to 75 deg.C, and stirring;
B) adding allantoin, betaine, glycerol, panthenol, carbomer and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 deg.C, homogenizing, stirring for 20min under heat preservation until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step S1, and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding triethanolamine, stirring, adding PPG-12-butanol polyether-16, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the moisturizing composition, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and essence, stirring well to obtain facial mask essence, and soaking the facial mask cloth in 20-25g facial mask essence to obtain facial mask.
Test example I promotion of hyaluronic acid Synthesis
Taking human skin keratinocyte (HEKa) in logarithmic growth phase, adjusting the cell concentration to be about 3 × 104/mL, taking 0.5mL of cell suspension to inoculate in a 24-well plate, culturing in an incubator at 37 ℃ and 5% CO2, after 3 days, enabling the cells to grow to be in a near-confluent state, changing into a culture medium without serum and growth factors, after culturing for 24 hours, adding 100 μ L of DMEM culture medium containing the moisturizing composition of example 2 and comparative examples 1-4, setting up a negative control group (cell and culture medium group), culturing in the incubator for 24 hours, respectively collecting the supernatant of the HEKa cell culture medium after the treatment, and using ELISA for determination, wherein the operation flow is carried out according to the instruction, the A value of a sample is detected by an enzyme reader at the wavelength of 450nm, and the A value represents the synthesis condition of hyaluronic acid.
TABLE 2 promotion of hyaluronic acid Synthesis
Group of Value of A
Example 2 0.526±0.019**
Comparative example 1 0.273±0.004
Comparative example 2 0.351±0.006*
Comparative example 3 0.318±0.003*
Comparative example 4 0.405±0.010**
Negative control 0.221±0.006
Note: p < 0.05, P < 0.01, compared to the negative control group.
As can be seen from the results in table 2, the date palm seed extract obtained by the probiotic fermentation method has an effect of significantly promoting hyaluronic acid synthesis by HEKa cells (comparative example 4); the composition of example 2, which includes the date seed extract, more significantly promoted the synthesis of hyaluronic acid by HEKa cells, indicating that the presence of other components in the moisturizing composition synergistically acted with the date seed extract. Compared with the comparative example 4, the date seed extract prepared by the conventional extraction method in the comparative example 1 has no obvious effect of promoting the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and the result shows that the date seed extract prepared by the probiotic fermentation has a better effect of promoting the synthesis of hyaluronic acid than the date seed extract prepared by the conventional extraction method. In contrast, as shown in comparative examples 2 and 3, the effect of the date palm seed extract, which is prepared by fermenting only a single strain, on promoting hyaluronic acid synthesis by HEKa cells is reduced as compared with the fermentation using a complex strain.
Test example II promotion of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression
Normal human keratinocytes (HEKa) were cultured in a near confluent state in a LabTek slide, then treated with 5% of the composition of example 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 for 24 hours, then immunolabeled with an antibody specific to aquaporin-3 (AQP3), then a secondary antibody was coupled to a fluorescent label, and the cells were examined by epifluorescence microscopy.
As a result: the fluorescence was most intense in the cells treated in example 2, and 4 times in comparative example, and the fluorescence was least intense in the cells treated in comparative example 1. It is demonstrated that the composition of example 2 of the present invention promotes aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression.
The first and second test examples show that the date seed extract obtained by the probiotic fermentation method has the effect of obviously promoting the HEKa cells to synthesize hyaluronic acid and the effect of promoting the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3), and when the date seed extract is combined with the pansy extract, the geranium tenuifolium extract, CERAMANIL GNBN, the jellyfish extract and the lotus extract, the promoting effect becomes more obvious.
Test example III promotion of expression of filaggrin
The density is 25 multiplied by 104cells/ml suspension of human keratinocytes (HEKa) was dropped into a 24-well plate with a cover glass, cultured for 24 hours, then added with 5% of the composition of example 2 and comparative examples 4 to 9, cultured for 24 hours, total RNA was extracted from the cultured cells by using Trizol reagent, and then RT-PCR analysis was performed using a one-step reverse transcription PCR kit. The expression levels of each group were compared using a filaggrin primer and β -actin as an internal control group. The results are shown in table 3, where the control group is set to 100.
TABLE 3 promotion of filaggrin production
Group of Production of Silk fibroin (%)
Untreated control group 100
Example 2 185
Comparative example 4 102
Comparative example 5 112
Comparative example 6 110
Comparative example 7 115
Comparative example 8 120
Comparative example 9 125
The results in the table above show that the composition of example 2 has a very significant difference compared to the untreated control; the promoting effect is obviously superior to that of other groups, and the results show that when the date seed extract is compounded with the components of hydrolyzed pansy extract, ciconia ciliata extract, CERAMANIL GNBN and the like, the components synergistically generate the effect of remarkably promoting the generation of filaggrin.
Test example four skin moisture content test
Test samples: the compositions of examples 1-4, and comparative examples 4-9;
the test method comprises the following steps: 100 volunteers, randomized into 10 groups. The test subjects firstly wash the forearms of the hands, sit still for 30 minutes under constant temperature and humidity, then divide the left and right arms of the test subjects into areas, each area is 3cm multiplied by 3cm, and respectively smear test samples with the same mass in different areas until the test samples are completely absorbed. Before use and after use of the test samples for 0.5h, 2h, 4h, 8h, the moisture content of the respective test areas was measured 5 times by a technician using a skin moisture tester Corneometer CM825, the values were averaged and the skin moisture content growth rate was calculated using the following formula, the results are shown in table 4.
Skin moisture content growth rate { (moisture content after use-moisture content before use)/moisture content before use } × 100%
Table 4 skin moisture content growth rate test results
Test sample 0h 0.5h 2h 4h 8h
Example 1 composition 0 89.25 80.97 76.00 71.55
Example 2 composition 0 99.12 91.45 87.18 83.79
Example 3 composition 0 85.54 76.32 71.19 66.74
Example 4 composition 0 81.02 71.50 66.03 60.28
Comparative example 4 composition 0 32.41 51.58 65.08 43.27
Comparative example 5 composition 0 60.15 43.28 35.49 28.36
Comparative example 6 composition 0 43.35 56.47 52.32 40.05
Comparative example 7 composition 0 57.58 45.25 36.75 30.57
Comparative example 8 composition 0 59.76 47.54 39.17 33.68
Comparative example 9 composition 0 70.25 61.12 52.93 48.41
The results in table 4 show that the skin moisture content is significantly increased after the compositions of examples 1 to 4 of the present invention are used, the skin moisture content increase rate is above 80% after 0.5h, and the skin moisture content increase rate is still above 60% after 8h, which indicates that the compositions of the present invention have the efficacy of instant and long-lasting moisturizing.
The skin moisture content peaked (65.08% and 56.47%) after 4h and 2h of use after the use of the composition of comparative example 4 and the composition of comparative example 6, respectively, and then began to decline, indicating that the compositions of comparative example 4 and comparative example 6, although having a moisturizing effect, did not have an immediate and long-lasting moisturizing effect.
After the compositions of comparative example 5 and comparative examples 7 to 9 are used, the skin water content reaches a peak after 0.5h, but the peak is less than 80%, and after 8h, the skin water content is rapidly reduced, and the instant moisturizing effect and the long-acting moisturizing effect are obviously inferior to those of the compositions of examples 1 to 4 of the invention. The composition of the invention has synergistic effect of the date seed extract, the hydrolyzed pansy extract, the geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN, the jellyfish extract and the lotus extract, realizes water capture, water locking, water activation and water storage by endogenously enhancing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and filaggrin and exogenously supplementing moisture-retaining components, thereby achieving instant and long-acting moisture retention from inside to outside.
Test example five, transdermal water loss value test and human body trial evaluation
Test samples: the mask of examples 5-8, and the use of mask substrate as a control;
the test method comprises the following steps: 50 volunteers, 25 each of men and women, divided into 5 groups on average, and used the masks of examples 5-8 and mask bases, respectively. The subject firstly washes the face with clean water, sits for 30 minutes under constant temperature and humidity, then applies corresponding test samples on the face for 20 minutes respectively, and then slightly massages the face until the test samples are absorbed after being torn off. Cheek skin water dispersion loss [ TEWL, g/(h · m2) was measured by a technician using an epidermal moisture loss meter TM300 before use and after 0.5h, 2h, 4h, 8h using test samples; lower TEWL values, less water loss, better skin barrier function ], left and right cheek measurements were performed 3 times each, averaged, and the values recorded, and the percent reduction in skin water loss through the epidermis calculated, the results are shown in table 5. And counting the conditions of the testee after use, including instant moisturizing effect, quick lubricating effect, continuous moisturizing effect, sticky feeling, fine and smooth skin, softness, glossiness and irritation.
The percentage of loss of skin water through epidermis { (amount of water dispersed through epidermis before use-amount of water dispersed through epidermis after use)/amount of water dispersed through epidermis before use } × 100%
TABLE 5 percent reduction in skin moisture loss through the epidermis
0h 0.5h 2h 4h 8h
Example 5 facial mask 0.00 20.81 18.90 15.86 15.11
EXAMPLE 6 facial mask 0.00 24.38 22.14 20.32 19.16
Example 7 facial mask 0.00 20.17 16.52 14.79 13.28
Example 8 facial mask 0.00 18.24 15.05 14.27 12.45
Mask matrix 0.00 6.55 4.43 2.91 1.46
From the results in table 5, it can be seen that the facial masks of examples 5 to 8 of the present invention have significantly reduced skin moisture loss through epidermis, indicating that the facial masks containing the compositions of 1 to 4 of the present invention have excellent moisturizing effect. In each embodiment, the facial mask containing the composition has the highest percentage reduction of skin moisture through epidermis loss after use, and shows that the composition formed by compounding the date palm seed extract, the hydrolyzed pansy extract, the geranium tenuifolia extract, CERAMANIL GNBN, the jellyfish extract and the lotus extract can act on different targets through multiple ways, so that the synergistic interaction effect is fully exerted, the purposes of capturing water, locking water, activating water and storing water are realized, the water loss through epidermis is reduced to the maximum degree, the barrier function of the stratum corneum is improved, and the excellent moisturizing effect is achieved.
According to the feedback of a subject, after the facial mask of the embodiment 5-8 is used, the facial mask is mild and non-irritant, more than 90% of volunteers feed back an instant moisturizing effect and a quick lubricating effect, the skin becomes soft and fine, the glossiness is obviously increased, the skin is still relatively moist after the facial mask is used for 8 hours, the continuous moisturizing effect is good, and the facial mask is not sticky.
In conclusion, the moisturizing composition containing the date palm seed extract can capture, lock, activate and store water through synthesis of endogenous enhanced hyaluronic acid, aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and fibroin, and achieves long-acting moisturizing effect from inside to outside. The facial mask containing the moisturizing composition is mild and non-irritant, has the effects of instantly moisturizing and quickly lubricating the skin, can moisturize and lock water, can obviously improve the barrier function of the skin, reduces water loss, has no sticky feeling after being absorbed by the skin, and enables the skin to be fine, smooth, transparent and glossy.
The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. The mask essence containing the date palm seed extract is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-10 parts of moisturizing composition and the balance of mask matrix; the moisturizing composition comprises 5-15 parts of date seed extract, 5-15 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 4-10 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5-10 parts of jellyfish extract, 3-8 parts of lotus extract and 24-60 parts of water, and the preparation method of the date seed extract comprises the following steps:
s1, crushing the dried date palm seeds to 20-50 meshes to obtain date palm seed powder;
s2, adding ultrapure water with the volume 8-12 times of the weight of the powder, uniformly mixing, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 15-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
s3, placing the mixed solution obtained in the step S2 in an incubator at 15-25 ℃ for culturing for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and immediately storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
s4, adjusting the fermentation culture product obtained in the step S3 to the concentration of 40-60g/L by using ultrapure water, extracting for 1h at 35 ℃ and 150rpm, centrifuging for 20min at 5000r/min, and taking the supernatant to obtain a date seed extract; the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 3-5: 1.
2. The mask essence containing the phoenix dactylifera seed extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein the moisturizing composition comprises 8-15 parts of phoenix dactylifera seed extract, 8-15 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 4-10 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5-10 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, 5-8 parts of jellyfish extract, 5-8 parts of lotus extract and 30-60 parts of water.
3. The mask essence containing date palm seed extract according to claim 2, wherein the moisturizing composition is composed of 13 parts of date palm seed extract, 8 parts of hydrolyzed pansy extract, 8 parts of geranium wilfordii extract, CERAMANIL GNBN 5 parts of jellyfish extract, 5 parts of lotus extract and 56 parts of water.
4. The mask essence containing the date palm seed extract according to claim 1, wherein the complex bacteria consist of yeast and bacillus according to a mass ratio of 4: 1.
5. The mask essence containing date palm seed extract according to claim 1, wherein the inoculation amount of the complex bacteria is 20%; the temperature of the incubator in the step S3 is 20 ℃; the culture time is 36 h.
6. The mask essence containing date palm seed extract according to claim 1, wherein the main functional ingredients in the lotus extract comprise phenolic substances with a total solid content of 1.33-1.58% w/w and water-soluble carbohydrates with a total solid content of 2.29-2.54% w/w.
7. The mask essence containing date palm seed extract according to claim 1, wherein the mask base comprises 0.1-0.2 part of allantoin, 0.5-1 part of betaine, 1-3 parts of glycerol, 0.1-0.2 part of panthenol, 0.01-0.1 part of carbomer, 1-5 parts of propylene glycol, 0.05-0.15 part of methylparaben, 0.05-0.1 part of chlorphenesin, 0.05-0.1 part of triethanolamine, 161-2 parts of PPG-12-butanol polyether, 0.005-0.01 part of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.001-0.002 part of essence and 78.71-83.71 parts of water.
8. A method for preparing the mask essence containing date palm seed extract according to claim 7, comprising the steps of:
A) mixing and heating propylene glycol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and chlorphenesin to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
B) adding allantoin, betaine, glycerol, panthenol, carbomer and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 deg.C, homogenizing, stirring for 20min under heat preservation until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 60-70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step A), and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding triethanolamine, stirring, adding PPG-12-butanol polyether-16, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the moisturizing composition, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and essence, and stirring to obtain facial mask essence.
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CN113143808B (en) * 2021-03-02 2023-03-14 珠海市何伟有机食品有限公司 Firming and repairing essence containing Adiantum henryi seed flower extract and preparation method thereof
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