CN112972359B

CN112972359B - Cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules and application of cosmetic composition in hibiscus cream

Info

Publication number: CN112972359B
Application number: CN202110200623.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 董玉宝; 陈康
Original assignee: Mimask Xiamen Bio Tech Co ltd
Current assignee: Mimask Xiamen Bio Tech Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-02-23
Filing date: 2021-02-23
Publication date: 2022-05-24
Anticipated expiration: 2041-02-23
Also published as: CN112972359A

Abstract

A cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules and application thereof in hibiscus cream are disclosed, wherein the microcapsules are adopted to wrap a plurality of functional components such as lotus flowers, revitalized grass, linear aspalata, sturgeon caviar, papaya extract, decapeptide-4, mannitol and the like, so that the permeability of the functional components is enhanced, the cuticle is quickly penetrated, the absorption capacity of the cuticle is promoted, aged cuticles can be removed, the regeneration of the cuticles is accelerated, the intercellular space is expanded, and the absorption of other functional components is promoted; meanwhile, the skin is supplemented with nutrition, and the synthesis of aquaporin, collagen, extracellular matrix, natural moisturizing factors and the like is promoted; in addition, the contained functional components have the effects of clearing free radicals, whitening, resisting aging, resisting oxidation, removing wrinkles, relieving skin sensitivity and the like, and the comprehensive water replenishing and repairing of the skin are realized; the composition can be widely applied to various cosmetics, especially hibiscus cream, and has remarkable water replenishing and repairing effects.

Description

Cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules and application of cosmetic composition in hibiscus cream

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules and application of the cosmetic composition in cosmetics.

Background

The skin is an important reservoir of human body, the stored water amount accounts for 18-20% of the total water amount of the whole body, and the water content is closely related to the health condition of the skin, so that the 'moisture preservation' in cosmetics is a permanent subject. If the skin is lack of water, the skin barrier dysfunction can be caused, various skin problems (such as dryness, spots, acne, sensitivity, large pores, dark yellow, wrinkles, looseness and the like) and even various skin diseases can be caused.

The stratum corneum has a skin barrier function, and the amount of water content is a determining factor in skin elasticity and softness. It can prevent moisture from evaporating into the atmosphere, and can absorb moisture in the outside air or skin and keep the skin moisture. The horny layer contains keratin fibers, Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) and other components, and the gaps of horny cells are filled with lipid substances composed of Natural lipids, liposphingosine and other components, so that the horny layer plays an important role in maintaining the barrier function and water content of the skin, preventing water loss (simultaneously influencing the water absorption of the skin) and regulating and controlling the adhesion and desquamation of keratinocytes. The excessively aged keratin seriously affects not only the absorption of moisture by the skin but also the barrier function of the skin, thereby causing many skin problems.

There are no blood vessels in the stratum corneum to supply water directly to it, and the water content of stratum corneum is closely related to the water transport of aquaporins in the skin, which are expressed on both skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The water-retaining agent can transport water, glycerol and urea, can bring NMF, endogenous glycerol and triglyceride in sebaceous glands into epidermis from circulation, and provides a short water loop in epidermal cells, so that the continuous water content of the epidermis is ensured, and the water-retaining agent has great significance for the barrier effect and the water retention rate of the epidermis. In the skin aging process, the stratum corneum ages, the aquaporin content is continuously reduced, the skin hydration ability is reduced, the activity of enzyme is reduced, the water loss is increased, the water content of skin tissue cells is reduced, and the cells shrink and age, so that skin problems occur. Stimulating generation of aquaporin, increasing water circulation of epidermis, enhancing water absorption, enhancing water retention capacity of epidermis, reducing water loss through skin, and making skin moist and elastic. The reduction or absence of aquaporins can seriously reduce the moisture content of the horny layer and the elasticity of the skin, and the skin is dry and rough.

In recent years, with changes in dietary structure, atmospheric pollution, and increases in living and working pressure, skin cells are damaged to reduce skin resistance, skin aging is accelerated, and barrier function of horny layer is reduced to cause dry skin and peeling, sensitivity and redness, fever, itching, tingling, erythema and the like, which have become social problems affecting human health, and thus, the market has a great demand for water-replenishing repair-type cosmetics.

At present, a large number of cosmetics with the moisturizing effect are claimed in the market, the moisturizing mechanism is single, multiple factors causing skin dehydration and skin dehydration caused by skin damage are not considered, comprehensive protection cannot be achieved, a good moisturizing effect cannot be achieved, and the requirement of the market cannot be met by simple water supplement, so that a product with the moisturizing and repairing effects is urgently needed in the market.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention provides a novel cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules, which has the efficacy of moisturizing and repairing, so as to overcome the defects in the prior art. The purpose of the invention is: first, absorption is promoted. The lipid vesicle packaging technology is adopted, various functional components are packaged in the lipid vesicle packaging technology, the permeability of the functional components is enhanced, the stratum corneum is quickly penetrated and directly reaches the dermis layer, the absorption capacity of the functional components is promoted, meanwhile, the packaged papaya extract can remove aged cutin and accelerate the cutin to be updated, and the decapeptide-4 can effectively enlarge the intercellular space and further promote the absorption of other functional components; secondly, aiming at the mechanism of skin water shortage, a novel functional component combination (lotus extract, revival grass extract, linear aspalaxyl and mannose … …) is adopted, so that aquaporins can be effectively promoted, synthesis of collagen, extracellular matrix, natural moisturizing factors and the like is promoted, and comprehensive water replenishing and moisturizing can be realized; thirdly, the skin is comprehensively repaired, the composition disclosed by the invention is rich in basic nutritional ingredients such as various amino acids, lipids, vitamins and minerals required by the skin, and meanwhile, the composition also has the effects of clearing free radicals, resisting inflammation, whitening, resisting aging, resisting oxidation, removing wrinkles, relieving skin sensitivity and the like, and the skin is comprehensively repaired.

To further clarify the invention, the definitions of the terms used in this application are as follows, unless otherwise indicated.

Defining:

extracting: refers to a solution obtained by soaking or mixing a substance to be extracted in a solvent. The extraction process can be carried out with the aid of the selection of suitable solvents, such as: water, ethanol/water mixture, methanol, propanol, butanol, chloroform, acetone or other organic solvent, and extracting by separation, percolation, decoction, countercurrent extraction, ultrasonic extraction, microwave extraction, or supercritical fluid extraction to obtain extract, and further evaporating and concentrating the extract to obtain extract and dried extract.

Lotus flower extract: the skin care product is extracted from lotus (Nelumbo NUCIFERA) flowers, mainly contains polyphenol, alkaloid, flavonoid, saponins and polysaccharide components, such as kaempferol, quercetin, luteolin, anthocyanin, apigenin, flavonol and other functional components, has the effects of resisting oxidation, resisting aging, replenishing water, moisturizing, resisting bacteria and diminishing inflammation and the like, can activate cell aquaporin, maintain the vitality and the regeneration capacity of epidermal cells, reduce the symptoms of skin pigmentation, acne, rough skin and the like, maintain the elasticity of the skin, make the skin fine and glossy and delay skin aging.

Revival grass extract: the revival grass, which grows in south Africa and is also called MYROTHAMNUS FLABELLIFOLIA (MYROTHAMNUS FLABELLIFOLIA), is extracted from leaves and stems of revival grass serving as raw materials, wherein the ratio of the leaves to the stems of revival grass is 3: 1. The extract contains trehalose, arbutin, 3,4, 5-tri-oxo-quinic acid gallate, triacylquinic acid, abundant protein in late embryo, polyphenols, saponin, flavonoids and polysaccharides, and can repair damaged cells, promote synthesis of aquaporins, regulate water and oil balance of skin, and repair skin barrier. Meanwhile, the red blood cell preservative has a strong antioxidation effect, can resist the invasion of free radicals to skin tissues and cells, protects the membrane structure, enhances the cell activity, promotes the metabolism, can improve the red blood cells, and has high-efficiency water locking and moisture retention effects.

Linear aspalaxyl extract: it is extracted from leaves and stems of linear Aspalatum Linearis (Aspalathus LINEARIS) at a ratio of 2: 1. The extract is rich in various amino acids, vitamins (B, C, E), mineral substances (zinc, manganese and the like), alpha-hydroxy acid, superoxide dismutase (SOD), aspartame, phenols and flavonoid compounds, promotes the synthesis of skin collagen, aquaporins and natural moisturizing factors, promotes the growth of epidermal fibroblasts, reduces the invasion of free radicals to the skin, efficiently repairs wounds, can obviously inhibit the generation of melanin, accelerates the metabolism of horny layer, effectively moistens the skin, enhances the functions of skin elasticity, wrinkle reduction, color and luster improvement, skin fineness, aging resistance and the like, and makes the skin moist, white and tender.

Sturgeon caviar extract: it is prepared from roe of sturgeon as raw material, has lipid (unsaturated fatty acid, sterol, phospholipid, etc.) similar to human skin composition, and contains abundant proteins, small molecule oligo-and polypeptides, multiple amino acids (isoleucine, lysine, methionine, cystine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, threonine, tryptophan, valine, arginine, histidine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, proline and serine), saccharide components such as glucose, fructose, sucrose and glycogen, and vitamin A, D, B₁、B₂And H, etc. It can provide nutrition to skin, moisten dry and aged skin, and restore skin activity.

Papaya extract: the papaya (CARICA PAPAYA) fruit extract is extracted from papaya (CARICA PAPAYA) fruits, and the main components of the papaya (CARICA PAPAYA) fruit extract are Papain, chymopapain A, chymopapain B, Papain B, lysozyme, cellulase and unique Linked-Papain C Papain, so that the papaya fruit extract can promote death of the skin surface and shedding of damaged cuticle, reconstruct the cuticle, shorten the skin renewal cycle, and enable the skin surface to be smooth, tender and glossy. In the preparation process of the composition, the composition also has enzymolysis effect, can release new functional components and promotes the functional components to play.

Decapeptide-4: the transdermal peptide is a synthetic peptide composed of arginine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, leucine, glycine, methionine, tyrosine and the like, can activate sodium potassium ATPase beta subunit on the surface of skin (specially regulates gaps among skin cells in the skin), can enlarge the cell gap from 10 nanometers to 430 nanometers, and further promotes the absorption of other functional components. At the same time, the skin aging process is reversed through reconstruction from inside to outside, the growth of skin cells is promoted, the proliferation of collagen, elastic fiber and hyaluronic acid is stimulated, and the damaged skin is repaired. Increasing moisture content and water locking, increasing skin thickness and reducing fine lines, improving skin quality, regulating skin sensitivity, enhancing skin resistance, promoting metabolism, accelerating skin pigment metabolism, and making skin tender, white and glossy.

Mannitol: has a chemical formula of C₆H₁₄O₆It is a sugar alcohol, easily soluble in water, and white crystalline powder. It can promote synthesis of aquaporin in epidermal cells, and relieve skin injury such as xerosis cutis, elasticity decrease and barrier function decrease caused by aquaporin deficiency.

The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:

a cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules comprises the following components in parts by weight:

the core material comprises the following components: 0.1-30 parts of lotus extract, 0.1-50 parts of revival grass extract, 0.05-20 parts of linear aspalata extract, 0.001-10 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 0.01-30 parts of papaya extract, 0.001-10 parts of decapeptide-4 and 0.1-10 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 40-90 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 0.01-30 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 0.5-1000: 1

The manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

1. enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 100-1000 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to 15-60 ℃, adjusting the pH to 3-10, and stirring and extracting for 0.1-4 h;

2. preparing a core material: adding the decapeptide-4 and mannitol in parts by weight, adding 50-1000 parts by weight of butanediol, stirring and filtering, and collecting filtrate;

3. preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in proportion, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1: 10-1: 50, heating in a water bath at 50-80 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to form a film on the wall of the round-bottom flask.

4. And (3) wrapping: accurately weighing core material components according to the required weight ratio of the wall material to the core material, slowly adding the core material components into the round-bottomed flask with the wall material film at 50-80 DEG C

Heating in water bath with continuous stirring until the wall material film is completely washed from the wall of the round-bottom flask to obtain a solution containing the wrappage.

5. Homogenizing: and (3) homogenizing the solution containing the wrappage for 1-5 times by using a high-pressure homogenizer for 3-15 min each time to obtain the composition with the water replenishing and repairing effects.

Preferred combinations are:

the core material comprises the following components: 0.1-25 parts of lotus extract, 1-30 parts of revival grass extract, 0.5-20 parts of linear aspalata extract, 0.01-10 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 0.01-20 parts of papaya extract, 0.001-5 parts of decapeptide-4 and 0.1-10 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 40-90 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 0.1-20 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 1-500: 1

More preferred combinations are:

the core material comprises the following components: 0.1-20 parts of lotus extract, 1-30 parts of revival grass extract, 0.5-15 parts of linear aspalata extract, 0.01-10 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 0.1-10 parts of papaya extract, 0.1-5 parts of decapeptide-4 and 0.1-10 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 50-90 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 0.1-20 parts of phytosterol;

wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 5-50: 1.

Another object of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition in cosmetics:

a cosmetic composition coated with liposome accounts for 0.001-90% of the total weight of the cosmetic.

The preferable proportion is 0.01-60% of the total weight of the cosmetic.

Particularly, in the hibiscus cream, the preferable proportion is that the composition accounts for 0.01-30% of the total weight of the hibiscus cream.

The invention develops a novel cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules, which has the efficacy of water replenishing and repairing, adopts multiple mechanisms to realize all-around water replenishing and repairing, and innovates compound components to obtain a formula combination with a synergistic effect, and the water replenishing and repairing effect of the composition is far stronger than the sum of each single component in the formula. The invention has simple production process and is suitable for large-scale production, so that various cosmetics prepared from the composition have good water replenishing and repairing effects.

Detailed Description

The following examples describe the novel process in detail, but are not meant to limit the scope of the invention.

Example 1:

a novel cosmetic composition wrapped by microcapsules comprises the following components in parts by weight:

the core material comprises the following components: 10 parts of lotus extract, 30 parts of revival grass extract, 5 parts of linear aspalaxyl extract, 2 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 10 parts of papaya extract, 0.05 part of decapeptide-4 and 1 part of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 60 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 20 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 20:1

The manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

1. enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 500 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to be 45 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 7, and stirring and extracting for 2 hours;

2. preparing a core material: adding the decapeptide-4 and mannitol in parts by weight, adding 600 parts by weight of butanediol, stirring and filtering, and collecting filtrate;

3. preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in proportion, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1:30, heating in water bath at 60 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to ensure that the wall material forms a film on the wall of the round-bottom flask.

4. And (3) wrapping: accurately weighing core material components (according to the required weight ratio of the wall material to the core material), slowly adding the core material components into the round-bottomed flask with the wall material film, heating in a water bath at 50 ℃, and continuously stirring until the wall material film is completely washed from the wall of the round-bottomed flask, thereby obtaining a solution containing the wrappage.

5. Homogenizing: homogenizing the solution containing the coating with a high pressure homogenizer for 3 times, 5min each time, to obtain composition with water supplementing and repairing effects.

The preparation method of the embodiment is simple, the cost is low, the composition with the water replenishing and repairing effects is suitable for large-scale popularization, and the prepared composition with the water replenishing and repairing effects has the characteristics of good water replenishing and repairing effects, safety, mildness, comprehensive effects and the like.

Example 2:

the core material comprises the following components: 15 parts of lotus extract, 10 parts of revival grass extract, 10 parts of linear aspalaxyl extract, 1 part of sturgeon caviar extract, 8 parts of papaya extract, 0.5 part of decapeptide-4 and 2 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 65 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 21 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 50:1

The manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

1. enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 400 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to be 35 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 6.7, and stirring and extracting for 2.5 hours;

2. preparing a core material: adding the decapeptide-4 and mannitol in parts by weight, adding 300 parts by weight of butanediol, stirring and filtering, and collecting filtrate;

3. preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in proportion, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1:20, heating in water bath at 80 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to ensure that the wall material forms a film on the wall of the round-bottom flask.

4. And (3) wrapping: accurately weighing core material components (according to the required weight ratio of the wall material to the core material), slowly adding the core material components into the round-bottomed flask with the wall material film, heating in a water bath at 55 ℃, and continuously stirring until the wall material film is completely washed from the wall of the round-bottomed flask, thereby obtaining a solution containing the wrappage.

5. Homogenizing: homogenizing the solution containing the coating with a high pressure homogenizer for 2 times, each time for 15min to obtain composition with water supplementing and repairing effects.

Example 3:

the core material comprises the following components: 20 parts of lotus extract, 15 parts of revival grass extract, 8 parts of linear aspalaxyl extract, 3 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 8 parts of papaya extract, 1 part of decapeptide-4 and 3 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 70 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 30 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 30:1

The manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

1. enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 500 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to be 25 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 6.8, and stirring and extracting for 3 hours;

3. preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in proportion, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1:30, heating in a water bath at 75 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to ensure that the wall material forms a film on the wall of the round-bottom flask.

5. Homogenizing: homogenizing the solution containing the coating with a high pressure homogenizer for 6min for 4 times to obtain composition with water supplementing and repairing effects.

Example 4:

the core material comprises the following components: 8 parts of lotus extract, 8 parts of revival grass extract, 5 parts of linear aspalaxyl extract, 5 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 1 part of papaya extract, 2 parts of decapeptide-4 and 2 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 65 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 35 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 10:1

The manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

1. enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 250 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to be 40 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 6.5, and stirring and extracting for 3.5 hours;

2. preparing a core material: adding the decapeptide-4 and mannitol in parts by weight, adding 500 parts by weight of butanediol, stirring and filtering, and collecting filtrate;

3. preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in a ratio, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1:35, heating in water bath at 80 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to ensure that the wall material forms a film on the wall of the round-bottom flask.

5. Homogenizing: homogenizing the solution containing the coating with a high pressure homogenizer for 5 times, each time for 5min to obtain composition with water supplementing and repairing effects.

Example 5:

the core material comprises the following components: 25 parts of lotus extract, 20 parts of revival grass extract, 14 parts of linear aspalaxyl extract, 6 parts of sturgeon caviar extract, 4 parts of papaya extract, 4 parts of decapeptide-4 and 2 parts of mannitol;

preparing a wall material: 90 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 10 parts of phytosterol.

Wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 10:1

The manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

1. enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 800 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to be 35 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 5.3, and stirring and extracting for 4 hours;

2. preparing a core material: adding the decapeptide-4 and mannitol in parts by weight, adding 400 parts by weight of butanediol, stirring and filtering, and collecting filtrate;

3. preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in proportion, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1:30, heating in water bath at 50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to ensure that the wall material forms a film on the wall of the round-bottom flask.

5. Homogenizing: homogenizing the solution containing the coating with a high pressure homogenizer for 3 times, each time for 4min to obtain composition with water supplementing and repairing effects.

The following example 5 of the present invention is described in detail with respect to the application of the composition of the present invention in a hibiscus cream, but is not meant to limit the scope of the claims of the composition of the present invention.

Example 6:

a hibiscus cream containing the composition is prepared by:

example 7:

a hibiscus cream containing the composition is prepared by:

example 8:

a hibiscus cream containing the composition is prepared by:

the cosmetic compositions of examples 6-8 are illustrated by example 5. if the composition of example 5 is changed to any combination and amount in the claims, other ingredients in the cosmetic formulation may be appropriately adjusted within the scope of the claims.

To determine the difference between the efficacy of the novel micro-liposome encapsulated cosmetic composition of the present invention in terms of moisturizing and repair and the single efficacy ingredient, the following experimental studies were performed:

taking example 5 as an example, a cosmetic composition containing 0.18% of lotus flower extract, 0.14% of revitalized grass extract, 0.1% of lasalobara filiformis extract, 0.04% of sturgeon caviar extract, 0.029% of papaya extract, 0.029% of decapeptide-4, and 0.014% of mannitol was prepared, respectively, in the same manner as in example 5 (i.e., containing only a single functional ingredient and having the same content as the same ingredients in example 5).

1. Promotion rate of collagen type iii synthesis:

human fibroblasts cultured in DMEM medium containing 10% FBS were seeded in a 24-well plate, and after cell attachment, medium exchange was performed with DMEM medium containing 0.25% FBS and 250 μ M magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and the above 8 samples to be tested were added, respectively. After three days of culture, the culture medium supernatant was recovered, centrifuged, and the type III collagen in the resulting supernatant was measured.

The evaluation method of the ability of type III collagen to biosynthesize in cells was carried out by measuring the content of a terminal peptide (Procollagen type III-peptide: abbreviated as PIII P) of type III collagen secreted in the supernatant using a "RIA-gnost PIII P (PIII P) measurement kit". The strength of the moisturizing effect of these samples was evaluated by the collagen type iii synthesis promoting rate. The calculation formula is as follows:

the promotion rate is (A-B)/B100%

A amount of type III collagen produced after addition of test sample

Type III collagen production amount without addition of test sample

The results are shown in Table 1:

TABLE 1 promotion of collagen type III Synthesis by different test samples

As can be seen from Table 1, the compositions of each single functional ingredient have different effects on the generation of type III collagen, and have the effects of promoting and inhibiting the generation of type III collagen, and the overall activity is very low. If the promotion rate of the composition of 7 single functional components is total, the promotion rate is 6.37%, and the promotion rate of the composition of example 5 is 48.2%, which is about 7.56 times of that of the former, which shows that after the composition is compounded, the functional components in the 7 extracts generate synergistic effect, and mutually enhance, promote the secretion of type III collagen of cells, increase the generation amount of type III collagen, thicken extracellular matrix, and further realize the effect of water supplementing and repairing.

2. Promotion rate of mRNA production of type 3 aquaporin:

the aquaporin production-promoting effect of the test sample is evaluated by measuring the mRNA expression level of type 3 aquaporin in keratinocytes. Respectively adding 8 different samples to be detected with the same concentration into the revived and cultured keratinocytes, culturing for 24 hours in a carbon dioxide incubator at 37 ℃, collecting and cracking the cells, separating all RNA from the cells, and determining the relative content of mRNA of the 3-type aquaporin by using RT-PCR. The increase rate was obtained by subtracting the relative content of the blank control group.

TABLE 2 promotion of mRNA production by different test samples for type 3 aquaporin

As can be seen from Table 2 above, the effect of the compositions of the individual functional ingredients on the mRNA production of type 3 aquaporins is variable, enhanced, and reduced. If the promotion rate of the total of 7 single functional component compositions is 13.01%, and the promotion rate of the example 5 is 70.51%, which is about 5.4 times of that of the former, it is shown that after the composition is compounded, the functional components in the 7 extracts generate synergistic effect, which can directly promote the synthesis of the 3-type aquaporin, improve the nutrient substances, promote the absorption of cells, mutually strengthen the components, further greatly improve the synthesis of the 3-type aquaporin mRNA, promote the synthesis of the 3-type aquaporin, strengthen the water transportation capacity of skin cells, and increase the effect of water replenishing and repairing of the skin.

3. Effect on dry eczema

The scientific name of eczema sicca, also called as crackle eczema, is dry and rough skin, fine cracks on epidermis and cuticle, redness of skin, pruritus and other symptoms caused by skin moisture loss and sebum secretion reduction. The efficacy of moisturizing treatment of eczema sicca is evaluated by observing the treatment effect of the composition of the invention. Experimental groups were applied with hibiscus cream produced according to example 7, and a population actual use follow-up experiment was performed using a control group (the product used in the control group was example 7 containing no active efficacy ingredient (i.e., example 5 containing no 15%)) to examine the use effect of the composition of the present invention in eliminating dry eczema. In the experiment, 80 volunteers aged 30-50 years and having different degrees of dry eczema on the face were selected and randomly divided into two groups (experimental group and control group) and 40 persons in each group. The evaluation results of the effect of ameliorating eczema sicca 15 days after once a day in the morning and at night are shown in Table 3

TABLE 3 evaluation results of ameliorating effect on eczema sicca

Note: the obvious effect means that the dry eczema is completely cured,

effective means that the dry eczema degree is relieved,

ineffective means no obvious effect on dry eczema.

As can be seen from table 3, the significant efficiency of the hibiscus cream containing example 5 reaches 57.50%, the total effective rate is 100%, and both the significant efficiency and the effective rate are far higher than those of hibiscus cream containing no functional component of example 5, which indicates that the moisturizing and repairing functional composition of the present application has a very strong moisturizing and repairing function and has a significant therapeutic effect on dry eczema caused by skin water shortage.

4. Repairing effect on sensitive muscle

The efficacy of water-supplementing repair is evaluated by observing the repair effect of the composition on sensitive muscles. In the experiment, 20 volunteers of sensitive muscles are selected, the age is 30-50 years old, and the volunteers are randomly divided into two groups (experimental group and control group) and 10 persons in each group. The evaluation results of the effect of improving sensitive muscles after 15 days were recorded in the morning and evening of each day as shown in Table 4

TABLE 4 evaluation results of the repairing Effect on sensitive muscles

Note: experimental groups: the hibiscus cream produced according to example 7 was applied,

control group: then the hibiscus cream produced in example 7 without 15% of the hibiscus cream produced in example 5 was applied,

significant effect means that the symptoms of sensitive muscles disappear completely,

effective means that the symptoms of sensitive muscles have a reducing effect,

null means no significant effect of the symptoms of sensitive muscles.

As can be seen from table 4, the experimental group has a strong repairing effect on the sensitive muscle, the significant efficiency reaches 40.00%, the total effective rate is 100%, and both the significant efficiency and the effective rate are far higher than those of the control group (the hibiscus cream containing no effective component in example 5), which indicates that the moisturizing repairing effect composition has a strong moisturizing repairing effect and a good repairing effect on the sensitive muscle.

5. Moisturizing Activity

The skin aging is closely related to the moisture content of the skin, the skin aging can be accelerated due to the lack of water in the skin, and the skin moisture content is sufficient to make the skin tender and elastic and delay the aging. The moisture retention performance of the samples to be tested was evaluated by testing the change in skin moisture content of 30 volunteers using the world recognized Corneometer-capacitance method.

30 subjects were healthy female volunteers aged 20-40 years without a history of skin disease. Before testing, the volunteers need to enter a constant-temperature and constant-humidity testing environment (the temperature is 20 +/-1 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40-60%) in advance, and rest for 30 min. Several points of the same area are defined on the left forearm as the use area. When the same position point of the right forearm is tested as a blank control, the corresponding areas of the left and right forearms are tested simultaneously. The dosage of each point is 5mg/cm². And observing the change of the moisture content of the skin after 20min, 2h, 10h and 24h of smearing to show the moisturizing performance of the sample to be tested.

Moisture retention rate (A-B)/B100%

A, skin moisture content after addition of the test sample.

And B, the skin moisture content of the test sample is not added.

TABLE 5 evaluation results of increase in skin moisture content

As can be seen from Table 5, the moisturizing rate of the skin after the cotton rose cream containing the example 5 is smeared for 20min is 43.60 percent, which is 3.3 times that of the cotton rose cream without the example 5; after 24 hours, the experimental group still keeps good moisturizing effect, the moisture content of the skin is increased by 29.65 percent, which is 24 times of that of the control group, and the control group has no moisturizing effect (1.26 percent). The composition can quickly replenish moisture to the skin in a short time, has a good water locking function, and can realize long-acting moisture retention of the skin all day long.

6. Skin brightening

The skin brightness and the change of the glossiness of the skin of the volunteer before and after using the product are tested by adopting a glossiness testing probe of a skin tester, so that the skin brightening performance of the sample to be tested is evaluated.

20 subjects were healthy female volunteers aged 20-40 years without a history of skin disease. The volunteers were divided into 2 groups of 10 persons each, and the samples to be tested were applied twice a day, in the morning and evening, for 4 weeks continuously, and skin brightness was measured once before application, and at weeks 1, 2, and 4. Before each test, the volunteers need to clean the face with facial cleanser, and then suck the facial water with paper towels, enter the constant-temperature and constant-humidity test environment (the temperature is 20 ℃ plus or minus 1 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40% -60%) in advance, and after resting for 30min, the technical personnel carry out the measurement.

TABLE 6 change in the ITA of the skin after use of the product

	1 week	2 weeks	4 weeks
				Experimental group	9.56±0.07％	11.72±0.12％	14.18±0.20％
Control group	0.50±0.14％	1.13±0.21％	0.87±0.08％

As can be seen from Table 6, the long-term use of the hibiscus cream containing example 5 significantly improved the ITA value of the skin, which is much higher than that of the control group, and the higher the value, the lighter the skin color, the glosser the skin, and the whiter the skin. The composition can be used for long-term moisturizing, repairing and brightening the skin and enhancing the brightness and whiteness of the skin.

While the foregoing description shows and describes the preferred embodiments of the present invention, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the forms disclosed herein, but is not to be construed as excluding other embodiments and is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes within the scope of the inventive concept as described herein, commensurate with the above teachings, or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. And that modifications and variations may be effected by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. The cosmetic composition wrapped by the microcapsules is characterized by having a moisturizing and repairing effect and comprising the following components in parts by weight:

preparing a wall material: 40-90 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 0.01-30 parts of phytosterol;

wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 0.5-1000: 1.

2. The microencapsulated cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the composition has moisturizing and repairing effects and is composed of the following components in parts by weight:

preparing a wall material: 40-90 parts of hydrogenated phospholipid and 0.1-20 parts of phytosterol;

wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 1-500: 1.

3. The microencapsulated cosmetic composition of claim 2 wherein the composition has moisturizing and repairing effects and is comprised of, by weight:

wherein the weight ratio of the wall material to the core material is 5-50: 1.

4. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition encapsulated by microcapsules, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: the manufacturing process comprises the following steps:

enzymolysis: accurately weighing the lotus extract, the resurrection grass extract, the linear aspalata extract, the sturgeon caviar extract and the papaya extract in parts by weight into a reaction kettle, adding 100-1000 parts by weight of distilled water, stirring and mixing uniformly, controlling the reaction temperature to 15-60 ℃, adjusting the pH to 3-10, and stirring and extracting for 0.1-4 h;

preparing a core material: adding the decapeptide-4 and mannitol in parts by weight, adding 50-1000 parts by weight of butanediol, stirring, filtering, and collecting filtrate;

preparing a wall material: accurately weighing wall material components in proportion, dissolving the wall material components in chloroform according to the weight ratio of 1: 10-1: 50, heating in a water bath at 50-80 ℃, uniformly mixing, and removing the solvent by adopting a reduced pressure distillation method to form a film on the wall of a round-bottom flask;

and (3) wrapping: accurately weighing core material components according to the required weight ratio of the wall materials to the core materials, slowly adding the core material components into the round-bottomed flask with the wall material film, heating in a water bath at 50-80 ℃, and continuously stirring until the wall material film is completely washed off from the wall of the round-bottomed flask to obtain a solution containing the wrapping object;

homogenizing: and (3) homogenizing the solution containing the wrappage for 1-5 times by using a high-pressure homogenizer for 3-15 min each time to obtain the composition with the water replenishing and repairing effects.

5. A process for the preparation of a microencapsulated cosmetic composition according to claim 4 wherein: the reaction temperature in the enzymolysis process is 20-50 ℃.

6. A process for the preparation of a microencapsulated cosmetic composition according to claim 5 wherein: the reaction pH value in the enzymolysis process is 4-8.

7. Use of a microencapsulated cosmetic composition as defined in claim 1, 2 or 3 in cosmetics characterized by: the cosmetic is cream, lotion, solution, and aerosol containing the composition.

8. Use of a liposome-encapsulated cosmetic composition according to claim 7 in a cosmetic product, wherein: the composition accounts for 0.001-90% of the total weight of the cosmetic.

9. Use of a liposome-encapsulated cosmetic composition according to claim 8 in a cosmetic product, wherein: the composition accounts for 0.01-60% of the total weight of the cosmetic.

10. Use of a microencapsulated cosmetic composition as defined in claim 9 in cosmetics characterized by: the cosmetic is hibiscus cream, and the composition accounts for 0.01-30% of the total weight of the hibiscus cream.