CN111163753B - 高紫外线辐射防护的无机防晒剂 - Google Patents
高紫外线辐射防护的无机防晒剂 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111163753B CN111163753B CN201880057816.4A CN201880057816A CN111163753B CN 111163753 B CN111163753 B CN 111163753B CN 201880057816 A CN201880057816 A CN 201880057816A CN 111163753 B CN111163753 B CN 111163753B
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Abstract
报道了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其特征在于,包括:由氧化锌、氧化钛和它们的混合物组成的微粒金属氧化物无机粒子,所述无机粒子涂覆有聚[C8‑C20羟基羧酸],在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV,聚[C8‑C20羟基羧酸]与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10。
Description
相关申请的交叉引用
本申请涉及于2017年9月5日提交的美国专利No.62/554,060并且要求上述美国专利的优先权其全部内容通过引用并入本文。
选定要公开的图形
无
技术领域
本发明涉及用作皮肤和个人护理组合物的防晒剂组分的无机金属氧化物粒子。
背景技术
阳光会严重损害人类皮肤并对头发造成毁灭性损伤。众所周知,阳光中的紫外线部分会加速人类真皮的光老化。急性照射甚至会引起疼痛的红斑。由于这些原因,化妆品化学家经常在其配方中加入有机防晒剂。UVA和UVB辐射的光谱通常是由两种或两种以上的有机防晒剂混合来解决的。
不幸的是,有机型防晒剂存在某些问题。在紫外线的猛烈照射下,有机防晒霜本身就会降解。光稳定性可能只持续几个小时。认为他们的防晒乳液是完全保护自己的消费者往往暴露自己的时间超过了光稳定性的限制。第二个问题是,在某些情况下,突出的有机防晒剂容易引起皮肤刺激。
近年来,已表明微细氧化锌和微细氧化钛均能使UVA和UVB两种类型的紫外线照射偏转。光稳定性和皮肤刺激不再是一个问题。但随着任何新技术的出现,问题确实出现了。一个问题是配方空间。对有多少金属氧化物颗粒可以悬浮在防晒霜或个人护理组合物中是有限制的。在保持金属氧化物颗粒含量不变的前提下,需要提出提高防晒系数(SPF)的方法。
背景文献包括以下公开文献。美国专利5587148(Mitchell和Mitchnik)公开了一种微粒化氧化锌微粒的分散剂,其直径小于0.2微米(200纳米)。
美国专利8623386B2(Schlossman等人)描述了在化妆品组合物中用作颜料的涂覆金属氧化物颗粒。据报道,这些颗粒主要粒径小于200纳米,也可作为色素级颗粒,其粒径大于200纳米。涂料优选荷荷巴酯,但也可选自大豆蜡、坎迪利拉蜡、蓖麻油、椰子油、澳洲坚果油,甚至许多矿物油馏分。
美国专利9254398(Schlossman等)公开了一系列具有良好自分散性的两层涂覆微粒化金属氧化物粉末。这些微粒化金属氧化物粉末是口红、指甲油、眼影和睫毛膏等化妆品的配料。两层中的第一层是三乙氧基辛基硅烷。两层中的第二层是外涂层,是聚羟基硬脂酸。
Innospec Inc.销售DISPERSUN商标下防晒霜的商用分散剂。该公司在产品手册(第4期/2010年)中推广使用DISPERSUN DSP-OL100和DSP-OL300(均被鉴定为聚羟基硬脂酸),以将超细二氧化钛和氧化锌分散到防晒化妆品中。更高的防晒系数(SPF)防晒霜据说是可以实现的,而不增加色素水平。还有改进的余地。
发明内容
报道了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其特征在于,由氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物组成的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,无机粒子涂覆有聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸],在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV,特别为2至5mV,聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]的量与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10。
有利的是,在某些实施方案中,当所述包覆粒子以1:1的重量比分散在三辛酸甘油酯中时,其可被表征为具有范围为20至200cps的布氏粘度,其中在23-28℃,20rpm下,用主轴4测得所述布氏粘度。
进一步提供的化妆品基于:
(i)紫外线辐射防晒组合物,包括从氧化锌、氧化钛和它们的混合物组成的组中选择的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,所述无机粒子涂覆有聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸],在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV,特别为2至5mV,聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]的量与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10;和
(ii)皮肤学上可接受的载体,其支持紫外线辐射防晒组合物,该组合物以1:100到1:4的相对重量比存在于载体中。
还进一步提供了一种制备紫外线辐射防护组分的方法,其包括以下步骤:
I.提供粉末状的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,其选自氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物;
Ii.在容器中,结合非油浆聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]和用粉末状的金属氧化物无机粒子,以制备以聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]席合的包覆粒子;在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV;聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]的量与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10;和
iii.从容器中排出经涂覆的粒子。
根据本发明的一个方面,提供了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,包括:由氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物组成的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,无机粒子被聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]包覆,在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV,聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10,以05为间隔包括此范围之间的每个比率;例如1:95、1:90到1:6,1:55,1:50。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中:Zeta电位范围为2~5mv,包括但不限于2、2.5、3、3.5、4、4.5和5mv。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中,当经涂覆的粒子以1:1重量比分散在三辛酸甘油酯中时,其特征在于具有在23-28℃、20rpm下用主轴4测量的布氏粘度,该布式粘度范围为20到200之间cps。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]选自聚羟基硬脂酸、聚蓖麻油酸及其混合物。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]是聚羟基硬脂酸。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供一种不含油性分散剂的紫外线辐射防晒组合物。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中该组合物是在不含油性分散剂的工艺中形成的,其中所述工艺选自以下组,组中包括:(1)高速研磨,(2)超临界二氧化碳处理,和(3)溶剂浆料的应用以及随后的溶剂去除。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:50至1:20,包括但不限于1:50、1:45、1:40、1:35、1:30、1:25和1:20。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其中无机粒子的一次粒子大小在5到500nm之间,包括但不限于以0.5mn的间隔在5到500nm之间的每种大小;例如5.5nm、6.0nm、6.5nm、7.0nm、7.5nm、8.0nm…至499nm、499.5nm和500nm。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种化妆品,其包括:(i)紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其包含选自氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子;用聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]涂覆所述无机粒子,在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV,,聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]的量与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10;以及(ii)皮肤学上可接受的载体,该载体支持紫外线辐射防晒组合物,所述组合物以1:100至1:50的相对重量比存在于载体中,该相对重量比包括以05的间隔在该范围之间的每个比率;例如1:95、1:90、……至……1:6、1.55、1:50。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种化妆品,其中:载体选自水、润肤剂、脂肪酸、脂肪醇、保湿剂、增稠剂及其混合物。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种化妆品,其中:经涂覆的紫外线防晒组合物以1:100到1:10的相对重量比存在于载体上,该相对重量比包括以05的间隔在该范围之间的每个比率;例如1:95、1:90到1:15、1:10。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种化妆品,其中:载体的存在量为化妆品重量的1%到99.9%。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供一种化妆品,其还包含:有机防晒剂,选自2-乙基己基对甲氧基肉桂酸盐、4,4'-叔丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、辛基水杨酸盐、四苯二甲酰二樟脑磺酸,二苯甲酮-3及其混合物。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供一种组合物,其中聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]选自聚羟基硬脂酸、聚蓖麻油酸及其混合物。
根据本发明的另一个替代方面,提供了一种组合物,其中聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]是聚羟基硬脂酸。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种制备紫外线辐射防护组合物的方法,包括:(i)提供粉末状的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,其选自氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物;(ii)将容器中的无油浆状聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]与粉末状的金属氧化物无机粒子结合,以形成包覆的无机粒子的包覆粒子,在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10mV,,聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:100至1:10;和(iii)从容器中排出经涂覆的粒子。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种制备紫外线辐射防护组合物的方法,其中:聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]选自聚羟基硬脂酸、聚蓖麻油酸及其混合物。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种制备紫外线辐射防护组合物的方法,其中:聚[C8-C20羟基羧甲基丙烯酸]是聚羟基硬脂酸。
根据本发明的另一替代方面,提供了一种制备紫外线辐射防护组合物的方法,其中:所述经涂覆的粒子的特征在于,当以1:1重量比分散在三辛酸甘油酯中时,具有在23-28℃,20rpm下用主轴4的测量的布氏粘度,,其范围从20到200cps,以及在该范围内的任何cps。
本发明的上述和其他方面、特征和优点将从结合附图阅读的以下描述中变得明显,其中类似的附图标记指定相同的元素。
附图说明
无
具体实施方式
我们发现能够通过用聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸](以下简称PHA)对金属氧化物颗粒进行不含油性分散剂的涂覆来改善微细化金属氧化物无机粒子的SPF。有效的不含油性分散剂的涂覆方法包括(1)高速铣削,(2)液体二氧化碳和超临界二氧化碳处理,(3)溶剂浆料的应用,随后的溶剂去除。所有三种方法提供的涂覆粒子的SPF值大约是已知油分散剂聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]涂覆技术所达到的两倍。
聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]涂层与金属氧化物的相对重量比可为1:100~1:10,尤其是1:50~1:20,尤其是1:30~1:25的重量比。当放置在具有载体的化妆品内时,所述涂覆的紫外线辐射防晒组合物与所述载体的相对重量比可以在1:100到1:4之间,特别是在1:50到1:1.5之间。
在三辛酸甘油酯中,在1:1重量比的浆液中测量经涂覆的粒子的粘度。三辛酸甘油酯是一种甘油三辛酸酯,可从Axona公司获得,商标为可从默克公司西格玛-奥尔德里奇分部获得,也可从Abitec公司获得。IUPAC名称为2,3-二(辛烷氧基)辛酸丙酯。使用布鲁克菲尔德粘度计DV-E(主轴号4)在23-28℃下测量粘度。粘度范围为20至200cps,尤其是50至150cps。
有利地,所述包覆粒子可在流体传输介质中被投加到化妆品产品配方中。合适的介质包括甘油三酯油、碳氢化合物、硅酮、脂肪酸、脂肪醇及其组合物。作为流体输送介质特别有用的是三辛酸甘油酯。当使用流体输送介质时,相对于包覆粒子的重量比可能在5:1到1:5之间,特别是在2:1到1:2之间,尤其是在1:1左右。
金属氧化物无机粒子
微粒化氧化锌、氧化钛及其混合物是最合适的金属氧化物。当粒子是球形、颗粒状或无固定形状时,“微粒化”一词是指一次粒子大小在5至500nm,特别在10至300nm之间的金属氧化物。如果粒子是针状的,则一次粒子的大小可以是5到50nm至50到150nm。可用透射电子显微镜分析一次粒子大小。
聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]
聚[C8-C20-羟基羧酸]是羟基脂肪酸的低聚物。典型的低聚物是聚羟基硬脂酸(PHSA)、聚蓖麻油酸及其混合物。聚羟基硬脂酸是12-羟基硬脂酸的低聚物。这些由12-羟基硬脂酸单体单元的均聚缩合形成。低聚物可具有2至10个,优选2至4个重复单体单元。材料可从Innospec公司获得。
在大多数情况下,聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]将是围绕微粒化金属氧化物颗粒的唯一涂层。通常情况下,没有其他物质会介入聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]涂层和微粒化金属氧化物颗粒之间。
化妆品
用改进的涂覆金属氧化物防晒颗粒配制的化妆品通常包括皮肤病学可接受的载体。按化妆品重量计,载体的量可在1至99.9%范围内,优选在60至95%范围内,优选在70至90%范围内。有用的载体包括水、润肤剂、脂肪酸、脂肪醇、保湿剂、增稠剂及其组合。载体可以是水性的、无水的或乳液。优选地,所述组分是水性的,尤其是W/O或O/W或三重W/O/W类型的水和油乳液。当含有水时,水的量可以在5-98%之间,最好是20-70%,最佳是35-60%(按重量计)。
水作为载体或以其他方式存在时,可有利地作为去离子、灭菌或巴氏灭菌液体并入组合物中,或在与组合物的其他成分混合后可进行热处理或辐照。这些处理确保了病原微生物的消除。
润肤剂可作为皮肤病学上可接受的载体。润肤剂可能以硅油、合成或天然酯和碳氢化合物的形式存在。以化妆品的重量计,润肤剂的量可以在0.1%到95%之间,优选在1%到50%之间。
硅油可分为挥发性和非挥发性。本文中使用的术语“挥发性”是指在环境温度下具有可测量蒸汽压的那些材料。挥发性硅油优选地选自含3至9个、优选4至5个硅原子的环状(环甲基硅油)或线性聚二甲基硅油。
用作润肤材料的非挥发性硅油包括聚烷基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷和聚醚硅氧烷共聚物。本文中有用的基本上不易挥发的聚烷基硅氧烷包括,例如,在25℃下具有约从5×10-6到0.1m2/s的粘度的聚二甲基硅氧烷。在本发明中有用的优选不易挥发润滑剂为在25℃下具有约1×10-5到约4×10-4m2/s的粘度的聚二甲基硅氧烷。
另一类非挥发性硅酮是乳化和非乳化硅酮弹性体。这一类的代表是聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物,如道康宁9040、通用电气SFE 839和Shin EtsuKSG-18。硅蜡,例如Silwax WS-L(聚二甲基硅氧烷月桂酸酯)等硅蜡也可能有用。
酯类润肤剂包括:
1)含有10到24个碳原子的饱和脂肪酸烷基酯。其实例包括新戊酸二苯酯、异壬基异纳米酸酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯和硬脂酸辛酯。
2)乙醚酯,如乙氧基化饱和脂肪醇的脂肪酸酯。
3)多元醇酯。乙二醇单脂肪酸酯和乙二醇双脂肪酸酯、二甘醇单脂肪酸酯和二甘醇双脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇(200-6000)单脂肪酸酯和聚乙二醇(200-6000)双脂肪酸酯、丙二醇单脂肪酸酯和丙二醇双脂肪酸酯、聚丙二醇2000单硬脂酸酯和聚丙二醇2000双硬脂酸酯、乙氧基丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、甘油单脂肪酸酯和甘油双脂肪酸酯、,乙氧基化甘油单硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇单硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇二硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯多元醇脂肪酸酯、山梨醇酐脂肪酸酯和聚氧乙烯山梨醇酐脂肪酸酯是理想的多元醇酯。尤其有用的是季戊四醇、三羟甲基丙烷和C1-C30醇的新戊二醇酯。
4)蜡酯,如蜂蜡、鲸蜡和三烯蜡。
5)脂肪酸的糖酯,如蔗糖多山嵛酸酯和蔗糖多棉籽油酸酯。
作为合适的载体的碳氢化合物包括矿脂、矿物油、C11-C13异构烷烃,特别是异十六烷,可从Presperse公司以Permethyl 101A的形式在商业上买到。
含有10到30个碳原子的脂肪酸也可以用作载体。这一类是壬酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、异硬脂酸、油酸和二十二烷酸。
含有10到30个碳原子的脂肪醇是另一类有用的载体。这一类是硬脂醇、月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇和十六醇。
可使用多元醇型保湿剂作为载体。典型的多元醇包括甘油、聚亚烷基二醇和更优选的亚烷基多元醇及其衍生物,包括丙二醇、二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚乙二醇及其衍生物、山梨醇、羟丙山梨醇、己二醇、1,3-丁二醇、异戊二醇、1,2,6-己三醇、乙氧基化甘油、丙氧基化甘油及其混合物。以化妆品的量来计,保湿剂的量可以在0.5%到50%之间,优选在1%到15%之间。
增稠剂可作为皮肤病学上可接受的载体的一部分使用。典型的增稠剂包括交联丙烯酸酯(如Carbopol)、疏水改性丙烯酸酯(如Carbopol/>)、纤维素衍生物和天然胶。有用的纤维素衍生物包括羧甲基纤维素钠、羟丙甲纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、乙基纤维素和羟甲基纤维素。天然胶可能是合适的增稠剂,可以包括瓜尔胶、黄原胶、菌核胶、卡拉胶、果胶和这些胶的组合。无机物也可用作增稠剂,特别是粘土,如膨润土和水辉石、气相二氧化硅和硅酸盐,如硅酸铝镁/>按产品的重量计算,增稠剂的用量范围为0.0001-10%,通常为0.001-1%,最佳用量为0.01-0.5%。
通常用于提亮肤色的化妆品将与皮肤提亮化合物一起配制。说明性物质为胎盘提取物、乳酸、烟酰胺、熊果苷、曲酸、阿魏酸、对苯二酚、间苯二酚和包括4-取代间苯二酚及其组合的衍生物。按产品的重量计,这些物质的量可以在0.1%到10%之间,优选在0.5%到2%之间。
还可包括白藜芦醇、α-硫辛酸、鞣花酸、激动素、维甲酸氧基三甲基硅烷(可从Clariant公司获得,在Silcare IM-75商标下)、脱氢表雄酮(DHEA)及其组合等材料。神经酰胺(包括神经酰胺1、神经酰胺3、神经酰胺3B、神经酰胺6和神经酰胺7)以及假神经酰胺是有用的。按组合物的重量计,这些材料的量可以在0.000001到10%之间,优选在0.0001到1%之间。
化妆品成分可能包括维生素。说明性维生素包括维生素A(视黄醇)、维生素B2、维生素B3(烟酰胺)、维生素B6、维生素B12、维生素C、维生素D、维生素E、维生素K和生物素。维生素的衍生物也可以使用。例如,维生素C衍生物包括抗坏血酸四异戊酯、抗坏血酸磷酸镁和抗坏血酸苷。维生素E的衍生物包括乙酸生育酚酯、棕榈酸生育酚酯和亚油酸生育酚酯。也可使用DL-泛苯酚及其衍生物。一种特别适合的维生素B6衍生物是棕榈酸吡哆醇。类黄酮也可能是有用的,特别是葡萄糖基橙皮苷、芦丁和大豆异黄酮(包括染料木素、大豆苷元、马醇及其葡糖基衍生物)及其混合物。当存在时,维生素或类黄酮的总量可能在组合物重量的0.0001%到10%之间。
化妆品成分可配制成多种产品类型,包括但不限于溶液、悬浮液、乳液、面霜、凝胶、调色剂、棍子、喷雾剂、软膏、清洁液和固体棒、洗发水和护发素、染发剂、糊剂、泡沫、粉末、摩丝、湿巾,成膜产品,面部和皮肤口罩,化妆品,如粉底、眼线、眼影等。
额外的防晒措施可以使用有机防晒霜。它们包括UVA和UVB保护范围。有机防晒霜至少有一个发色团在290到400纳米的紫外线范围内吸收。发色团有机防晒霜可分为以下类别(具体示例)包括:对氨基苯甲酸及其盐类及其衍生物(乙基、异丁基、甘油酯;对二甲氨基苯甲酸);邻氨基苯甲酸酯(邻氨基苯甲酸酯;甲基、薄荷基、苯基、苄基、苯乙基、芳樟醇、松油基,和环己烯酯);水杨酸盐(辛基、戊基、苯基、苄基、薄荷基、甘油基和二丙二醇酯);肉桂酸衍生物(薄荷和苄基酯、α-苯基肉桂腈;肉桂酰丙酮酸丁酯);碳氢化合物(二苯丁二烯、二苯乙烯);二苯并丙酮和苯并丙酮;萘酚磺酸盐(2-萘酚-3,6-二硫化物和2-萘酚-6,8-二硫化物的钠盐);二羟基萘酚酸及其盐;邻羟基和对羟基联苯二硫化物;香豆素衍生物(7-羟基,7-甲基,3-苯基);重氮唑(2-乙酰基-3-溴代咪唑,苯基苯并恶唑,甲基萘并恶唑,各种芳基苯并噻唑);奎宁盐(硫酸氢钠、硫酸盐、氯化物、油酸盐和鞣酸盐);喹啉衍生物(8-羟基喹啉盐、2-苯基喹啉);羟基或甲氧基取代的二苯甲酮;尿酸和维生素酸;鞣酸及其衍生物(如六乙醚);(丁基卡宾基)(6-丙基胡椒基)醚;对苯二酚;二苯甲酮(氧苯甲酮、硫苯甲酮、二氧苯甲酮、苯间苯二酚、2,2'4,4'-四羟基二苯甲酮、2,2'-二羟基-4,4'-二甲氧基二苯甲酮、辛苯甲酮;4-异丙基二苯甲酰甲烷;丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷;依托立林;和4-异丙基二苯甲酰甲烷)。
特别重要的防晒霜有:2-乙基己基对甲氧基肉桂酸盐(Parsol)、4,4'-叔丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(通常称为阿伏苯酮,Parsol/>)、辛基水杨酸盐(可作为Dermablock/>使用)、四苯二甲叉樟磺酸(Mexoryl/>),二苯甲酮-3(氧苯甲酮)及其混合物
按化妆品组合物的重量计,有机防晒霜的用量可能在0.01%到30%之间,通常在0.5%到15%之间,常常在4%到12%之间。
适合使用的表面活性剂可以是能够形成乳液和/或缔合结构的表面活性剂。表面活性剂可分为阴离子型、非离子型、阳离子型或两性型。术语“表面活性剂”在本文中定义为包括其他称为“乳化剂”的材料。
可用于本文所述组成中的表面活性剂的实例包括C8-C22烷基链化合物的盐。代表性的有:牛脂酸钠、椰子酸钠、烷基硫酸钠(如十二烷基硫酸钠和肉豆蔻酸钠)、N-酰基肌氨酸钠(如N-月桂酰肌氨酸钠和N-肉豆蔻酰肌氨酸钠)、十二烷基苯磺酸钠、氢化椰子脂肪酸单甘酯硫酸钠,十二烷基磺乙酸钠和N-酰基谷氨酰胺(如N-棕榈酰谷氨酸盐)、N-甲基酰脲钠盐、N-甲基酰基丙氨酸钠盐、α-烯烃磺酸钠和二辛基磺基琥珀酸钠;N-烷基氨基甘油(如N-十二烷基二氨基乙基甘油和N-肉豆蔻二氨基乙基甘油)、N-烷基-N-羧甲基铵甜菜碱和2-烷基-1-羟乙基咪唑啉钠甜菜碱;聚氧乙烯烷基醚
烷基芳醚、聚氧乙烯羊毛脂醇、聚氧乙烯甘油单脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯山梨醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脂肪酸酯、高级脂肪酸甘油酯、山梨醇脂肪酸酯,聚氧乙烯醚脂肪酸酯,如聚氧乙烯醚单油酸酯和聚氧乙烯山梨醇酐单月桂酸酯。
表面活性剂可占化妆品组合物的重量的0.1%至97%,优选2%至75%,更优选10%至90%和最优选20%至70%。
化妆品组合物中可能含有防腐剂,以防止潜在有害微生物的生长。适宜的传统防腐剂是对羟基苯甲酸烷基酯。最近开始使用的其他防腐剂包括海因衍生物、丙酸盐和各种季铵化合物。化妆品化学家熟悉适当的防腐剂,并经常选择它们以满足防腐剂挑战性试验和提供产品稳定性。特别优选的防腐剂是甲基氯异噻唑啉酮和甲基异噻唑啉酮组合、苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯、咪唑烷基脲、脱氢醋酸钠和苯甲醇。防腐剂的用量可为化妆品组合物重量的0.01%至2%。
可能存在脱屑剂。例如一元羧酸。一元羧酸可被碳链长度高达16的取代或未取代。特别优选的羧酸是α-羟基羧酸和β-羟基羧酸。术语“酸”意指不仅包括游离酸,而且还包括其盐和C1-C30烷基或芳基酯以及通过除去水形成环状或线形内酯结构而生成的内酯。代表性酸有乙醇酸、乳酸、苹果酸和酒石酸。特别优选的代表性盐是乳酸铵。水杨酸是β-羟基羧酸的代表。当存在时,这些材料的含量可能在化妆品成分重量的0.01%到15%之间。
优选脱皮剂可选自乙醇酸、乳酸、水杨酸、维甲酸、维甲酸及其混合物(包括其盐形式)。
着色剂可以是染料或颜料。通常区分不溶于其载体(导致悬浮)的颜料和本身是液体或溶于其载体(导致溶液)的染料。着色剂可作为颜料或染料,具体取决于所涉及的载体。在某些情况下,颜料可以通过用金属盐沉淀可溶性染料而由染料制成。由此产生的颜料称为色淀颜料。
更常见的染料有茜素、偶氮酚蓝、黄芩苷、刚果红、品红酸、龙胆紫、健那绿、甲基红、萘酚绿、萘酚黄、玫瑰红、苏丹II、泰坦黄及其组合。在颜料中,二氧化钛和铝的湖(染料的铝盐)是最常见的。根据化妆品的类型(口红、粉底、染发剂等),着色剂的量可以占化妆品组合物的重量的0.000001到10%不等,通常为0.01到5%不等。
防晒系数(SPF等级)用于定性描述防护效果的差异。SPF是一种测量太阳灼伤产生的紫外线到达皮肤的分数。例如,“SPF15”意味着1/15的燃烧辐射将到达皮肤,假设防晒霜以每平方厘米2毫克(mg/cm)的厚剂量均匀涂抹。用户可以通过将防晒系数乘以他(她)在没有防晒霜的情况下烧伤所需的时间来确定防晒霜的有效性。因此,如果一个人在不涂防晒霜的10分钟内出现晒伤,那么同一个人在同样强度的阳光下,如果涂防晒系数为15的防晒霜,将避免150分钟的晒伤。
除了在体内测量外,还可以借助专门设计的光谱仪在体外测量SPF。在这种情况下,测量防晒霜的实际透射率,以及由于暴露在阳光下而导致的产品降解。必须在阳光的UVB-UVA范围(290-400nm)的所有波长上测量防晒霜的透射率,还有一张表格,上面列出了不同波长对晒伤(红斑作用光谱)的影响,以及太阳光的标准强度谱。用体外方法对报告结果后的实施例中的SPF进行评价。
除非在示例中或另有明确说明,否则本说明书中表示材料量或反应条件、材料物理性质和/或用途的所有数字应理解为经“关于”一词修改的数字。除非另有规定,否则所有量均按组分的重量计算。
应注意,在规定任何浓度或量的范围时,任何特定的高浓度可与任何特定的低浓度或量相关联。
为免生疑问,“包括”一词意指“包括”但不一定指“由…组成”。换言之,所列步骤或选项不必详尽无遗。
本文中发现的本发明的公开将被视为涵盖权利要求中发现的所有实施例,即它们是相互依赖的,而不管在没有多重依赖或冗余的情况下可以找到权利要求。
“如本文所用的“产品”是指包括配制的个人护理或清洁成分,用于局部涂抹于哺乳动物的皮肤或毛发,特别是人类的皮肤或毛发,或通过清洗沉积到纺织品上。
实施例1
针对采用多种涂覆技术利用聚羟基硬脂酸(PHSA)对微粒化氧化锌进行涂覆进行了一系列实验研究。并与已知的油性分散剂路线进行了比较。
采用高速干法研磨和涂布法
将氧化锌加入高速搅拌槽中,混合几分钟,使其结块。将涂层多羟基硬脂酸喷在氧化锌上,后者高速混合。此后,继续混合至少15分钟,以完全分散涂层(PHSA)。合适的高速搅拌机包括气流粉碎机、罗迪格搅拌机和贝克珀金斯设备。材料的数量和来源见下表。
品名 | 成分(INCI) | 供应商 | % |
Dispersun DSP-OL 100 | 聚羟基硬脂酸(PHA) | Innospec | 4.0 |
氧化锌 | 氧化锌 | 下一步实验室 | 96.0 |
液体或超临界二氧化碳法
氧化锌(ZnO)加入装有混合器(磁性)的高压罐中。将超临界二氧化碳(CO2)加入到涂层PHA中,并在注入到含ZnO的高压罐中混合,其中CO2是液体。将ZnO和CO2/PHSA的混合物混合约10分钟。此后,将罐的内容物排放到允许二氧化碳升华的容器中,并将PHSA包覆的ZnO粉末留下来。材料的数量和来源见下表。
品名 | 成分(INCI) | 供应商 | % |
Dispersun DSP-OL 100 | 聚羟基硬脂酸(PHA) | Innospec | 4.0 |
氧化锌 | 氧化锌 | 下一步实验室 | 96.0 |
泥浆包衣法
聚羟基硬脂酸(PHSA)加入异十二烷中,混合溶解包衣(PHSA)。用SeleSeon(L5M—A)混合器进行高剪切搅拌来添加氧化锌,混合30分钟。将所得浆液倒入干燥托盘中,并在70℃下干燥24小时以除去异十二烷。材料的数量和来源见下表。
品名 | 成分(INCI) | 供应商 | % |
Purolan IDD | 异十二烷 | Lanxess | 50.0 |
Dispersun DSP-OL 100 | 聚羟基硬脂酸(PHSA) | Innospec | 2.0 |
氧化锌 | 氧化锌 | 下一步实验室 | 48.0 |
甘油三硝酸酯 50.0
上述所有3种涂层的分散性(浆液、液态CO2、干磨)
三辛酸甘油酯 50.0
PHSA涂覆的氧化锌 50.0
分散性(每个PHA供应商)
三辛酸甘油酯 50.0
PHSA 2.0
氧化锌 48.0
实施例2
对比结果见下表。这些比较了预先将PHSA涂覆到氧化锌上,随后在分散在油中的分散体的SPF和粘度与后将油/PHSA浆液涂覆到氧化锌上的分散体的SPF和粘度
涂布方法 | 加工温度 | 粘度 | SPF** |
高速干磨(1) | 25C-60C* | 95-100cps | 26-28 |
超临界二氧化碳(2) | 10C-25C | 95-100cps | 26-28 |
浆料涂布(3) | 25C-50C* | 95-100cps | 26-28 |
每个PHA供应商的分散性(4) | 25C-60C* | 258-275cps | 13-14 |
*剪切引起的温升
**10%氧化锌
用PHSA预涂(方法1-3)氧化锌,然后分散在油中,粘度降低,SPF倍增。可见将油/PHSA分散体加入到氧化锌中的传统的制备方法(方法4)在粘度和SPF方面的表面尤其差。
就SPF对配方进行测试
*10%氧化锌
实施例3
PHSA涂层的氧化锌可用于制备各种类型的防晒剂配方,但不限于:W/O;O/W;pickering乳液;无水;醇基悬浮液。说明性化妆品产品配方如下所述。
W/O乳液
相 | 成分 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
A | PHSA涂覆的氧化锌 | 30.0 | 1.0 | 5.0 | 10.0 | 20.0 |
A | 三辛酸甘油酯 | 24.8 | 32.7 | 29.8 | 28.8 | 25.3 |
A | 异十二烷 | 7.8 | 8.9 | 7.8 | 7.8 | 7.8 |
B | 季铵-90膨润土 | 2.6 | 2.6 | 2.6 | 2.6 | 2.6 |
碳酸丙烯酯 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | |
C | 十六烷基聚乙二醇/PPG-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
D | 水 | 30.0 | 50.0 | 50.0 | 46.0 | 39.5 |
D | 硫酸镁 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
D | 山梨酸钾 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 |
100.0 | 100.0 | 100.0 | 100.0 | 100.0 | ||
O/W乳液
实施例4
针对采用多种涂覆技术利用聚羟基硬脂酸(PHSA)对微粒化二氧化钛进行涂覆进行了一系列实验研究。与已知的油性分散剂路线进行了比较。
上述三种涂层方法(泥浆、液态CO2、干磨)的分散性
三辛酸甘油酯 50.0
PHSA涂覆的二氧化钛 50.0
分散(每个PHA供应商)
三辛酸甘油酯 50.0
PHSA 2.0
二氧化钛 48.0
就SPF对配方进行测试
相 | 成分 | 1 | 2 |
A | 三辛酸甘油酯 二氧化钛分散体(用PHSA预涂覆) | 10.5* | |
三辛酸甘油酯 二氧化钛分散体(根据PHSA供应商) | - | 10.5* | |
A | 三辛酸甘油酯 | 33.2 | 33.2 |
A | 聚甘油-3聚蓖麻油酸酯 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
A | 异十二烷 | 7.8 | 7.8 |
B | 季铵-90膨润土 | 2.6 | 2.6 |
C | 聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯 | 1.3 | 1.3 |
C | 十六烷基聚乙二醇/PPG-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 1.3 | 1.3 |
D | 水 | 39.5 | 39.5 |
D | 硫酸镁 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
D | 山梨酸钾 | 0.3 | 0.3 |
100.0 | 100.0 |
*5%二氧化钛
实施例5
与二氧化钛的比较结果报告在下表中。这些比较了预先将PHSA涂覆到二氧化钛上,随后在分散在油中的分散体的SPF和粘度与后将油/PHSA浆液涂覆到二氧化钛上的粉丝难题的SPF和粘度。
分散度与涂布结果
*剪切引起的温升
**用体外法检测的5%二氧化钛
用PHSA预涂(方法1-3)二氧化钛,然后分散在油中,粘度低得多,SPF倍增。可见将油/PHSA分散体加入到二氧化钛中的传统的制备方法(方法4)在粘度和SPF方面的表现尤其差。
实施例6
PHSA包覆的二氧化钛可用于制备各种类型的防晒剂,但不限于:W/O;O/W;pickering乳液;无水;醇基悬浮液。说明性化妆品产品配方如下所述。
W/0乳液
相 | 成分 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
A | PHSA涂覆的二氧化钛 | 30.0 | 1.0 | 5.0 | 10.0 | 20.0 |
A | 三辛酸甘油酯 | 24.8 | 32.7 | 29.8 | 28.8 | 25.3 |
A | 异十二烷 | 7.8 | 8.9 | 7.8 | 7.8 | 7.8 |
B | 季铵-90膨润土 | 2.6 | 2.6 | 2.6 | 2.6 | 2.6 |
碳酸丙烯酯 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | |
C | 十六烷基聚乙二醇/PPG-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
D | 水 | 30.0 | 50.0 | 50.0 | 46.0 | 39.5 |
D | 硫酸镁 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
D | 山梨酸钾 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 |
100.0 | 100.0 | 100.0 | 100.0 | 100.0 |
O/W乳液
O/W乳液
实施例6
本例讨论了Zeta电位测量和方法。使用ZetaProbe分析仪TM进行测量,该分析仪可从佛罗里达州庞特韦德拉海滩的胶体动力公司购买。在正十二烷中的10%氧化锌浆液是标准水平分析的,并且代表权利要求所描述的ζ电位值的条件。在初始测量之前,系统已校准。样品搅拌桨以170转/分的速度运行,并使用5分钟的等待时间来稳定样品。每个样本平均三次扫描。结果以毫伏(mV)为单位记录在5分钟稳定等待期后的1分钟标记处。
以下概述了获取测量样品所采用的程序
Zeta电位样本
样本: | A | B | C |
十二烷 | 90.0% | 90.0% | 89.4% |
氧化锌(Zoco) | 10% | -- | 10% |
PHSA | -- | -- | 0.6% |
天然的超级锌* | -- | 10.0% | -- |
*天然的超级锌-94%氧化锌/6%PHA
样品A的程序:
1.称取十二烷并加入烧杯
2.置于均质机上-2500转/分
3、将氧化锌添加到十二烷中,同时均匀化。
以2500转/分的速度混合30分钟
样品B的程序:
1.称取十二烷并加入烧杯
2.置于均质机上——2500转/分
3.均匀化时在十二烷中加入天然的超级锌
4、将氧化锌添加到十二烷/PHSA混合物中,同时均匀化。
样品C的程序:
1.称取十二烷并加入烧杯
2.置于均质机上-2500转/分
3.均化时在十二烷中加入PHSA
4、将氧化锌添加到十二烷/PHSA混合物中,同时均匀化。
5.以2500转/分的速度搅拌30分钟
样本A代表无任何PHSA的对照实验。样本B说明了本发明,其中PHSA沉积到氧化锌上,载体蒸发,形成粉末氧化锌/PHSA,然后(例如用十二烷)将粉末制浆成产品。
I与样品B相似的样品。对照样品A(纯未涂覆的锌颗粒)和显示出明显的Zeta电位的现有技术描述的样品C(浆料递送PHSA)已被用于获得涂层处理的金属氧化物颗粒的表面电荷的信息。我们发现表面电荷(mV)和防晒系数(SPF)之间存在相关性。电荷越大,SPF保护越高。在较小Zeta电位值的例子下,已经报告了SPF的改善。请注意下表中的值。
样品 | A | B | C |
Zeta电位(mv) | 0.47 | 2.49 | 0.69 |
本领域技术人员应当理解,虽然已经参照本领域的具体变化来描述了本发明的组合物和方法,但是可以在不脱离本文所描述的组合物和方法的真实精神和范围的情况下进行各种改变和替换等同物。此外,可作出许多修改以适应特定情况、材料、物质组成、过程、过程步骤或步骤,以达到本文所述化合物和方法的目的、精神和范围。上述所有专利和出版物均以引用方式并入本文。
Claims (11)
1.一种制备紫外线辐射防护组合物的方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
(i)提供粉末状的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,所述无机粒子选自氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物;
(ii)将容器中的无油浆状聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]与粉末状的金属氧化物无机粒子结合,以形成包覆的无机粒子的包覆粒子,其被聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]包围,在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2至10 mV, 聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]的量与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:50到1:20;以及
(iii)从所述容器中排出所述涂覆的粒子;
所述组合物形成在不含油性分散剂的工艺中,所述工艺选自(1)高速铣削、(2)超临界二氧化碳处理和(3)溶剂浆料应用以及随后的溶剂去除;
聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸]是聚羟基硬脂酸。
2.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于,
所述包覆粒子的特征在于,当以1:1重量比分散在三辛酸甘油酯中时,具有范围为20-200 cps的粘度,其中在23-28℃,20rpm下,用主轴4测得所述布氏粘度。
3.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于,
Zeta电位范围为2~5mv。
4.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于,
所述组合物不含油性分散剂。
5.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于,
聚[C8-C20-羟基羧酸]与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:24。
6.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于,
所述无机粒子的一次粒子大小为5~500nm。
7. 一种化妆品,其特征在于,包括
(i)根据权利要求1-6任一项所述方法制备的紫外线辐射防晒组合物,其包含从氧化锌、二氧化钛及其混合物组成的微粒化金属氧化物无机粒子,所述无机粒子涂覆有聚[C8-C20羟基羧酸],在负载量为10%的十二烷中,经过1分钟的时间测得所述涂覆的粒子的Zeta电位范围为2~10 mV,聚[C8-C20-羟基羧酸]的量与无机粒子的相对重量比为1:14;以及
(ii)在皮肤学上可接受的载体,其支持所述紫外线辐射防晒组合物,该组合物以1:100到1:5的相对重量比存在于载体中。
8.根据权利要求7所述的化妆品,其特征在于,
所述载体选自水、润肤剂、保湿剂、增稠剂及其混合物。
9.根据权利要求7所述的化妆品,其特征在于,
所述载体选自脂肪酸和/或脂肪醇。
10.根据权利要求7所述的化妆品,其特征在于,
所述紫外线辐射防晒组合物与所述载体以1:100到1:10的相对重量比存在。
11.根据权利要求7所述的化妆品,其特征在于,还包括:
有机防晒剂,选自2-乙基己基对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、4,4'-叔丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、辛基水杨酸、四苯二甲叉二樟脑磺酸、二苯甲酮-3及其混合物。
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