CN111118702A - Preparation method of polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111118702A CN111118702A CN201911386307.9A CN201911386307A CN111118702A CN 111118702 A CN111118702 A CN 111118702A CN 201911386307 A CN201911386307 A CN 201911386307A CN 111118702 A CN111118702 A CN 111118702A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/08—Melt spinning methods
- D01D5/088—Cooling filaments, threads or the like, leaving the spinnerettes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
- D01D5/23—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool by asymmetrical cooling of filaments, threads, or the like, leaving the spinnerettes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of a terylene crepe fabric, which comprises the steps of firstly preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from disperse dye normal-pressure dyeable terylene fibers, simultaneously preparing warp yarns from terylene silk-like cloth, then interweaving the two spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions with the warp yarns to prepare a fabric, and finally dyeing the fabric to prepare the terylene crepe fabric; the twist of the S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 300-500 twists/m; the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps: extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, and preparing the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber according to an FDY process; after dyeing, the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the method effectively solves the problem that the quality of fibers and the style of the fabric are damaged due to a heavy twisting process when the double-crepe woven fabric is prepared in the prior art.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a preparation method of a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric.
Background
The double-crepe woven fabric is generally thin silk-like fabric, the warp yarns adopt untwisted or weakly twisted fibers, and the weft yarns adopt strongly twisted fibers. When the warp and the weft are adopted for weaving, the weft is formed by alternately weaving a left-twisted strong-twisted yarn and a right-twisted strong-twisted yarn in sequence, and the fabric weave is plain weave under the conventional condition; after refining and conditioning, the surface of the fabric is creped to form micro-concave-convex and wavy wrinkles, and the gloss is soft. As can be seen from the processing technology, in order to obtain a double-crepe style, the weft needs to be heavily twisted in different directions (the twist of the yarn is 1800 twists/m) to have a high twist, but the high twist causes damage to the fibers and affects the quality. In addition, the crepe feel of the double-creped woven fabric made of the strongly twisted yarns is destroyed by the action of gravity during hanging, specifically because of the change in the micro-unevenness and wavy wrinkles formed by twisting.
Therefore, it is very important to develop a method for preparing a creped double woven fabric with stable quality and crepe feeling without performing heavy twisting.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a preparation method of a polyester crepe-de-chine woven fabric, and aims to solve the problems that in the prior art, the quality of fibers is reduced and the crepe feeling of the fabric is easily damaged due to a heavy twisting process when the crepe-de-chine woven fabric is used.
A preparation method of a terylene crepe fabric comprises the steps of firstly preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from disperse dye normal-pressure dyeable terylene fibers, simultaneously preparing warp yarns from terylene silk-like yarns (the preparation method is the same as patent 201811615717.1), then interweaving the warp yarns with the spiral weft yarns in opposite twisting directions in pairs to prepare a fabric, and finally dyeing the fabric to prepare the terylene crepe fabric;
the twist of the S-twisted or Z-twisted spiral weft yarn is 300-500 twists/m;
the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, and preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.4-2.5: 1.6-3.7, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, in the preparation process of the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester, the molar ratio of terephthalic acid to isophthalic acid to diethylene glycol is 100: 3-5: 5-8, and the addition amount of polyethylene glycol is 8-12 wt% of that of terephthalic acid.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, the intrinsic viscosity of the normal-pressure easily-dyed polyester melt is 0.65-0.72 dL/g.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 275-280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the first roller speed is 1600-1700 m/min, the first roller temperature is 85-95 ℃, the two roller speed is 3200-3400 m/min, the two roller temperature is 160-180 ℃, and the winding speed is 3130-3310 m/min.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, disperse dye is adopted for dyeing, the dyeing temperature is 100-105 ℃, and the dyeing time is 40-50 min.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, before dyeing, the breaking strength of the disperse dye normal-pressure dyeable polyester fiber is more than or equal to 2.7cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 50.0 +/-5.0%, and the total titer is 120-200 dtex.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, after dyeing, the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 29-35%, the crimp stability is 78-82%, the shrinkage elongation is 66-72%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 75-80%.
According to the preparation method of the polyester crepe-de-chine woven fabric, the gram weight of the polyester crepe-de-chine woven fabric is 100-120 g/m2。
The principle of the invention is as follows:
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is prepared according to an FDY process, normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt is extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, included angles of three-leaf center lines of the same trilobal spinneret orifice are different, the center line of a leaf opposite to the minimum included angle passes through a circle center and points away from the circle center, the leaf is firstly contacted with circular blowing air, the surface contacted with cooling air is the whole surface of the leaf, and the other two leaves are only contacted with the windward side; therefore, after the fiber is sprayed out, the cooling speed of the melt at different positions on the cross section is inconsistent, and is mainly reflected by that: during spinning, the part close to the air blowing port is cooled earlier and faster, and the part far away from the air blowing port is cooled slower. When one of the three-lobed shapes in the trilobal spinneret orifice faces the cooling wind, the melt of the lobe cools quickly, while the other part of the trilobal shape cools slowly, and the lobe facing the wind first is narrow and is cooled more easily. Under the tension of drawing, the cooled leaf in the trilobal shape is easier to draw and thin, and the stress is more concentrated, so that a trilobal stress asymmetric structure can appear on a fiber trefoil cross section, the fiber with asymmetric stress and thickness on the cross section can present three-dimensional curling performance in the heat treatment or drawing process, the curling is good, and the elastic recovery rate of the fiber is high.
When the disperse dye normal pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber with three-dimensional crimping performance is used for weaving a double-crepe woven fabric, before weaving, the disperse dye normal pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is respectively made into S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns, then, the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are alternately arranged in pairs and interwoven with warp yarns to make a fabric, when the fabric is subjected to relaxation heat treatment (the conventional dyeing and finishing process meets the condition), the fiber is heated, shrunk and crimped, and the fabric can form a certain degree of crimping effect from the cloth cover, and the formed crepe is double-crepe due to the opposite twisting directions;
the wrinkling does not need untwisting, so that the yarn does not need to be subjected to heavy twisting, the damage to the yarn is reduced, and the quality of the yarn is further ensured; the wrinkle in the invention is caused by the difference of the heat shrinkage rate difference of the two materials, and the wrinkle does not influence the heat shrinkage rate of the materials under normal washing and using conditions, namely the wrinkle style is durable.
Has the advantages that:
(1) the invention relates to a preparation method of a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the disperse dye with three-dimensional self-curling shape and S twist and Z twist is adopted for dyeing the polyester fiber under normal pressure, so that the fabric has a double-crepe style, and the crepe style is lasting and stable;
(2) the preparation method of the polyester crepe-de-chine woven fabric effectively solves the problem that the quality of fibers and the style of fabrics are damaged due to a heavy twisting process when the crepe-de-chine woven fabric is prepared in the prior art.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the shape of a trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the distribution of the orifices of the present invention on a spinneret.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The shape of the trilobal spinneret orifice and the distribution schematic diagram of the spinneret orifice on the spinneret plate are shown in figures 1 and 2, the spinneret orifice on the spinneret plate is trilobal, the included angle ratio of the center lines of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.4-2.5: 1.6-3.7, the length and the width of the three leaves are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
Fig. 1 and 2 are merely schematic and are not intended to limit the present invention.
Example 1
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.65dL/g) from a trefoil spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:3:5, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 9 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.4:1.6, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 275 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8m/s, the first roller speed is 1600m/min, the first roller temperature is 85 ℃, the second roller speed is 3200m/min, the second roller temperature is 160 ℃, and the winding speed is 3130 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 55%, and the total titer is 150 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 300 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 320 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 100 ℃, and the dyeing time is 50 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 33%, the crimp stability is 78%, the contraction elongation is 67%, the crimp elastic recovery rate is 75%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 110g/m2。
Example 2
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.66dL/g) from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:5:6, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 9 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.5:1.7, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 275 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.02m/s, the one-roller speed is 1650m/min, the one-roller temperature is 85 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3270m/min, the two-roller temperature is 164 ℃, and the winding speed is 3200 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.74cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 53%, and the total titer is 120 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 320 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 300 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 100 ℃, and the dyeing time is 48 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 35%, the crimp stability is 80%, the contraction elongation is 72%, the crimp elastic recovery rate is 76%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 106g/m2。
Example 3
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.7dL/g) from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:4:6, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 10 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.0:2.5, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 279 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.17m/s, the one-roller speed is 1700m/min, the one-roller temperature is 94 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3390m/min, the two-roller temperature is 167 ℃, and the winding speed is 3320 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.85cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 46%, and the total titer is 170 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 350 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 340 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 102 ℃, and the dyeing time is 48 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 35%, the crimp stability is 78%, the contraction elongation is 68%, the crimp elastic recovery is 77%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 100g/m2。
Example 4
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.69dL/g) from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:5:7, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 9 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.2:3.5, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3.1: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 278 ℃, the cooling temperature is 23 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.09m/s, the one-roller speed is 1670m/min, the one-roller temperature is 93 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3300m/min, the two-roller temperature is 168 ℃, and the winding speed is 3230 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.77cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 47%, and the total titer is 200 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 380 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 350 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 101 ℃, and the dyeing time is 46 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 34%, the crimp stability is 79%, the contraction elongation is 71%, the crimp elastic recovery rate is 76%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 120g/m2。
Example 5
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.68dL/g) from a trefoil spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:3:5, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 12 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.2:3.2, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.6: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 278 ℃, the cooling temperature is 23 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.07m/s, the one-roller speed is 1660m/min, the one-roller temperature is 90 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3290m/min, the two-roller temperature is 177 ℃, and the winding speed is 3220 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.76cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 50%, and the total titer is 160 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 420 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 400 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 104 ℃, and the dyeing time is 46 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 30%, the crimp stability is 80%, the contraction elongation rate is 66%, the crimp elastic recovery rate is 78%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 108g/m2。
Example 6
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.72dL/g) from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:4:8, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 12 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.0:3.7, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.9: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.3m/s, the first roller speed is 1700m/min, the first roller temperature is 95 ℃, the second roller speed is 3400m/min, the second roller temperature is 177 ℃, and the winding speed is 3310 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.95cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 45%, and the total titer is 140 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 440 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 420 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 104 ℃, and the dyeing time is 44 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 32%, the crimp stability is 81%, the contraction elongation is 69%, the crimp elastic recovery is 80%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 110g/m2。
Example 7
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.69dL/g) from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:3:6, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 12 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.4:3.7, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 279 ℃, the cooling temperature is 23 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.14m/s, the one-roller speed is 1670m/min, the one-roller temperature is 93 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3320m/min, the two-roller temperature is 178 ℃, and the winding speed is 3250 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.8cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 48%, and the total titer is 166 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 480 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 500 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 105 ℃, and the dyeing time is 42 min;
the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in the prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 29%, the crimp stability is 80%, the contraction elongation is 70%, the crimp elastic recovery rate is 78%, and the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 116g/m2。
Example 8
A method for preparing a terylene crepe-de-chine woven fabric,
(1) the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt (the intrinsic viscosity is 0.68dL/g) from a trefoil spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, and cooling by circular blowing; wherein, in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable terylene, the molar ratio of the terephthalic acid, the isophthalic acid and the diglycol is 100:3:8, and the addition amount of the polyethylene glycol is 8 wt% of that of the terephthalic acid;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.5:3.7, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
(2) preparing FDY yarns according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-to-dye polyester fibers;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 276 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.05m/s, the one-roller speed is 1650m/min, the one-roller temperature is 87 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3280m/min, the two-roller temperature is 180 ℃, and the winding speed is 3210 m/min;
the breaking strength of the prepared disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber is 2.75cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 51%, and the total titer is 180 dtex;
(3) respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, and simultaneously preparing warp yarns from the polyester silk-like yarns, wherein the twist of the S-twisted spiral weft yarns is 500 twists/m, and the twist of the Z-twisted spiral weft yarns is 480 twists/m;
(4) the spiral weft yarns with opposite twisting directions are interlaced with each other and the warp yarns to form a fabric,
(5) dyeing the fabric to obtain a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric; the dyeing adopts disperse dye, the dyeing temperature is 104 ℃, and the dyeing time is 40 min;
disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber in prepared polyester crepe de-chine woven fabricThe fiber has three-dimensional crimp shape, crimp shrinkage of 30%, crimp stability of 82%, shrinkage elongation of 72%, crimp elastic recovery of 80%, and gram weight of 120g/m2。
Claims (8)
1. A preparation method of a terylene crepe de-chine woven fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: firstly, respectively preparing S-twisted and Z-twisted spiral weft yarns from disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fibers, simultaneously preparing warp yarns from polyester silk-like yarns, then interweaving the warp yarns with the spiral weft yarns in opposite twisting directions in pairs to prepare a fabric, and finally dyeing the fabric to prepare a polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric;
the twist of the S-twisted or Z-twisted spiral weft yarn is 300-500 twists/m;
the preparation process of the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, and preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process to obtain the disperse dye normal-pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber;
the included angle ratio of the center lines of the three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.4-2.5: 1.6-3.7, the length and the width of the three blades are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf, which is opposite to the minimum included angle, of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
2. The preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the preparation process of the normal pressure dyeable polyester, the molar ratio of terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid and diethylene glycol is 100: 3-5: 5-8, and the addition amount of polyethylene glycol is 8-12 wt% of the addition amount of terephthalic acid.
3. The preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein the intrinsic viscosity of the normal pressure dyeable polyester melt is 0.65-0.72 dL/g.
4. The method for preparing the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric according to the claim 3, wherein the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 275-280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the first roller speed is 1600-1700 m/min, the first roller temperature is 85-85 ℃, the two roller speed is 3200-3400 m/min, the two roller temperature is 160-180 ℃, and the winding speed is 3130-3310 m/min.
5. The preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, the dyeing temperature is 100-105 ℃, and the dyeing time is 40-50 min.
6. The preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, according to the claim 5, is characterized in that before dyeing, the breaking strength of the disperse dye normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber is more than or equal to 2.7cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 50.0 +/-5.0%, and the total titer is 120-200 dtex.
7. The preparation method of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric, according to claim 5, wherein after dyeing, the disperse dye normal pressure easy-dyeing polyester fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 28-35%, the crimp stability is 78-82%, the shrinkage elongation is 66-72%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 75-80%.
8. The method for preparing the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the gram weight of the polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric is 100-120 g/m2。
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