CN106245188A - One washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric - Google Patents
One washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN106245188A CN106245188A CN201510315169.0A CN201510315169A CN106245188A CN 106245188 A CN106245188 A CN 106245188A CN 201510315169 A CN201510315169 A CN 201510315169A CN 106245188 A CN106245188 A CN 106245188A
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Abstract
The invention discloses one wash this woven fabric of crepe de Chine woven fabric contain silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament, can dye at normal temperatures and pressures, goods are made to have the advantage one-bath dyeing of silkworm silk and terylene, little to fibre damage, filoplume is few, keeps the noble sense of fabric, and various colors, easily arrange, the most time-consuming, reduce the energy and should be particularly suitable for making clothing spring and summer by fabric with becoming.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of garment material, be specifically related to one and wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric.
Background technology
Pure silk fabric cost is high, and it is difficult to arrange in recent years, relatively popular is crepe de Chine silkworm silk product, due to its distinctive reflecting feel of existing silkworm silk, there is again indistinct crape sense on surface, makes whole fabric show a kind of noble sense, adds the glamour of wearer, by the favorable comment of consumer, the market demand is big.
But, owing to pure silk product price is high, can not machine-wash, can not press, the purchase intention of these misgivings Hui Shi consumers reduces, and market purchasing power declines.
A lot of developers consider to use polyster fibre to interweave or blending with silkworm silk, thus reduce cost, increase washing feasibility such as Chinese patent application CN01210390236.1, disclose a kind of composite fibre, it is mentioned that use silkworm silk to be combined by certain mixed proportion with chemical fiber wire, obtain a kind of uniform dehumidifying of gloss and breathe freely, the most sericeous feel and gloss, having again the well-pressed crease-resistant fabric of chemical fibre still, how two kinds of fibers dye, and this problem is avoided mentioning.Because dyeing terylene condition is different with silkworm silk, at high temperature under high pressure terylene is dyeed, the silkworm silk in blending product can be caused to be badly damaged.
Also someone considers to use modified dacron, composite fibre can be dyeed at ambient pressure, such as Chinese patent application CN201220125083.3 discloses a kind of blended yarn weaved fabric, this fabric uses silkworm silk and Cationic Dyeable Pet long filament to interweave, solve and can not go up the problem of dye under room temperature still, how dyeing under ensureing the cloth cover quality washing a product, the document has no to mention
In the market for two kinds of fibers, commonly used colouring method is that dispersion/acid dyeing two method of bathing is carried out, in entitled " the normal-temperature normal-pressure dyeable terylene ECDP application on the textile " of weaving monograph (middle figure classification number TS190.6), specifically mention: normal pressure dispersion can contaminate dark color in the intertexture of terylene/silkworm silk or blending product and be proposed with two-bath process, one-bath dyeing, there is the two-bath process that existing this two kinds of fibers of problem of color fastness difference are used, owing to dyeing time is long, fabric is many with dyeing machine cylinder wall friction, silkworm silk ash is easily caused to hinder, affect cloth cover quality therefore, the solution of colouring problem is extremely urgent.
About the crape sense of silkworm silk crepe de Chine product, the present stage volume production condition that used of silkworm silk factory, it is only suitable for pure silk fabric.If using the processing of this condition and washing the silk product that silk is combined, cannot make the crape sense of similar silk fabric and noble sense, goods chemical fibre sense is too strong widely different with the thermal shrinkage stress of silkworm silk both fibers because of washing silk, uses conventional volume production condition cannot go out crape.
Summary of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, provide a kind of crape sense having similar real silk and noble sense effect, dyed color is various, and this fabric of crepe de Chine woven fabric of washing conveniently arranged is particularly suitable for making clothing spring and summer.
The technical solution of the present invention is:
The present invention washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric, silkworm silk can contaminate polyester filament with normal pressure dispersion and constitute, and on woven fabric cloth cover, the crape degree of depth is 60 ~ 110 μm, and the filoplume number of length 50 μm is 10/cm2Below.
Preferably in woven fabric, the content of silkworm silk is 30 ~ 60%, and it is 40 ~ 70% that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate the content of polyester filament.
The preferably warp thread of woven fabric is silkworm silk long filament, and weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament；Or warp thread is the warp thread conjunction twisted filament that silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure disperse to contaminate polyester filament formation, weft yarn is the weft yarn conjunction twisted filament that silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament formation.
Preferably warp thread closes the twist of twisted filament is 100 ~ 500 T/M, and it is 600 ~ 2600T/M that described weft yarn closes the twist of twisted filament.
Preferably normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament is the copolyesters long fibre containing 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol construction unit.
After preferably woven fabric is washed according to JIS1096 2010 standard 3 back scrubbing, size changing rate is 0 ~ ± 3.0%, becoming and fade more than 4 grades, WW is more than 3 grades.
The present invention washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric, and cloth cover presents reflecting feel crape sense, possesses the noble sense of pure silkworm silk, and various colors, the clothing that this woven fabric of cloth cover excellent effect is made, enable a wearer to comfortable and easy to wear, increase glamour, and inexpensive, easily arrange, increase the purchasing demand of consumer.
Detailed description of the invention
The present invention washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric, silkworm silk can contaminate polyester filament with normal pressure dispersion and constitute, and on woven fabric cloth cover, the crape degree of depth is 60 ~ 110 μm, and the filoplume number of length 50 μm is 10/cm2Below.
The present invention washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric, primary raw material is that silkworm silk can contaminate polyester filament because silkworm silk is protein fibre with normal pressure dispersion, mainly it is made up of animal proteinum, rich in aminoacid necessary to 18 kinds of human bodies, hydroscopicity is higher, easily absorb perspiration and dirt, no cell structure, Skin Cell vigor can be promoted, anti-sclerosis of blood vessels, life-time service can anti-skin aging, have the good reputation of " human body the second skin " " fiber queen " but silkworm silk price is high, arrange trouble, make ordinary consumer hang back.
Polyster fibre is a kind of fibrous material that intensity is higher, and hygroscopicity is low, belongs to the fiber of high-modulus, elastic recovery is good, all it is unlikely to deform when bearing various external force, therefore the good stability of the dimension of polyster fibre, wash resistant, wear well-pressed, its wearability is the highest, and the roughly the same washing dry in the sun of hygrometric state dry state wearability, dress all there is no particular/special requirement, be very easy to arrange, and low price, consumer is acceptant.
In the present invention, take into full account the pluses and minuses of two kinds of fibers of summary, carry out Fabric Design weaving the dyeing temperature in view of polyster fibre is 130 DEG C, and silkworm silk is the most impaired seriously, directly both are combined, following process relatively difficult use normal pressure can contaminate terylene and replace ordinary polyester, dyeing temperature is reduced to dyeing at normal pressure, and do not change other characteristics of polyster fibre, it is that the normal pressure dispersion mixing in the woven suitable fibers present invention with silk fiber can contaminate terylene, the preferably methyl isophthalic acid Han 2-, the copolyesters long fibre of ammediol construction unit, the content of its terminal carboxyl group COOH is below 25mol/ton, the content of diethylene glycol is below 2.0wt%, in polyester, the content P of phosphorus atoms and the content M of metallic atom meets formula (1) and formula (2):
5ppm≤[P]≤100ppm formula (1)
0.1≤[M]/[P]≤30 formula (2).
The present invention washs on a crepe de Chine woven fabric cloth cover, and the crape degree of depth is 60 ~ 110 μm, and the filoplume number of length 50 μm is 10/cm2The most such scope is possible not only to the crape sense making cloth cover have pure silkworm silk crepe de Chine product, and cloth cover filoplume is few, and silkworm silk abrasion is slight so that cloth cover whole structure is good.< 60 μm, cloth cover crape sense is the most weak, and chemical fibre sense is strong for the crape degree of depth.The crape degree of depth > 110 μm, cloth cover crape effect is too strong, shrinks excessive, and cloth cover is wrinkled, and aesthetic feeling weakens.The filoplume number of cloth cover length 50 μm is more than 10/cm2, then explanation silk fiber serious wear, cloth cover weak effect.
The present invention washs in a crepe de Chine woven fabric, the content of silkworm silk is 30 ~ 60%, normal pressure dispersion can contaminate the content that content is 40 ~ 70% silkworm silks of polyester filament less than 30%, cloth cover gloss, pliability, wearing comfort declines the content of silkworm silk and is more than 60%, cloth cover high cost, machine washing feasibility declines, and daily difficulty of arranging increases.
The present invention washs in a crepe de Chine woven fabric, and warp thread is silkworm silk long filament, and weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament；Or warp thread is the warp thread conjunction twisted filament that silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure disperse to contaminate polyester filament formation, weft yarn is the weft yarn conjunction twisted filament that silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament formation.Preferably warp thread closes the twisted filament twist is 100 ~ 500
T/M, it is the use that 600 ~ 2600T/M closes twist yarn that weft yarn closes the twisted filament twist, is the pluses and minuses in order to integrate two kinds of fibers, and abundant product variety, through the strong and weak design of filling twist, is in order at cloth cover and goes out the consideration of crape effect.
The present invention washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric, after this finished product is washed according to JIS1096 2010 standard 3 back scrubbing, size changing rate 0 ~ ± 3.0%, become and fade more than 4 grades, WW is at 3 grades of JIS1096 selected above
2010 standards carry out washing test, and allow for the everyday home wash conditions present invention washs a crepe de Chine product, compare purer silk product, and above-mentioned washing index has the biggest superiority.
In order to reach inventive feature, need when refine engineering, just can go out crape and utilize existing silkworm silk volume production condition, it is respond well that pure silkworm silk goes out crape, but washing a crepe de Chine product crape effect and producing principle almost without the crape of pure silkworm silk is to utilize the twist between weft yarn poor, and the torsion of weft yarn S Z different directions, make cloth cover present marvellous crape effect and consider that washing a crepe de Chine product contains two kinds of fibers, and thermal shrinkage stress is widely different, owing to introducing the fiber beyond silkworm silk, broken the stress equilibrium of fabric so, man-hour is added in refine, utilize existing equipment, use water impact, add the introducing of an external force, for offsetting the stress difference that two kinds of fiber difference shrinkage stresses produce, wash a product crape feature to be produced.
In order to ensure the cloth cover quality of finished product, weaken the abrasion of cloth cover silkworm silk, by making for reaching of minimizing dyeing time increase lubricant.
The colouring processing method that the present invention uses, comprises the following steps:
(1), after the pre-treatments such as use silkworm silk and normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament and carry out being woven into grey cloth, carries out degumming, is dried, middle sizing, dye.
(2) dyeing can contaminate two kinds of fibers of terylene and dyes to silkworm silk and normal pressure dispersion respectively or dye simultaneously, or only a kind of stock-dye, preferably dispersion dyeing and acid dyeing single bath process is carried out, and the highest holding temperature is 90 ~ 99 DEG C, and temperature retention time is 15 ~ 60 minutes.
(3) first carrying out R/C process after dyeing, use acid detergent, solution PH is 3 ~ 6.5.
(4) carrying out fixation treatment again and clean process, solution PH is 3 ~ 6.5.
Using this colouring method, color fastness meets UQ benchmark.
Cloth cover is after a series of processing such as refine dyeing, and the abrasion of cloth cover silkworm silk is slight, does not affect cloth cover effect.
The present invention washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric, rationally selected and the optimization of processing technique by what yarn was organized, cloth cover is made to present reflecting feel crape sense, possesses the noble sense of pure silkworm silk for the different thermal shrinkage stress of two kinds of fibers, carry out principle analysis, explore and can produce the treatment conditions of crape simultaneously, long in view of the existing colouring method time, silkworm silk serious wear, cloth cover weak effect, so creating one-bath dyeing, make goods various colors, these goods of cloth cover excellent effect make clothing, enable a wearer to comfortable and easy to wear, increase glamour, and it is inexpensive, easily arrange, increase the purchasing demand of consumer.
Physical property involved in the present invention is measured by following methods.
1. crape depth survey
Utilize digit microscope, carry out observing under 200 times and measure.The concrete model of digit microscope is VHX2000.
2. filoplume number measures
Utilize digit microscope, carry out observing under 200 times and measure.The concrete model of digit microscope is VHX2000.
3. finished product washing is evaluated
Washing standard: JIS1096 2010,
Washing post-evaluation index: size changing rate, WW, change is faded.
Wherein, WW is the index evaluating cloth surface evenness.Metewand is AATCC
124-2011。
Below by embodiment and comparative example, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
84D silkworm silk long filament selected by warp thread, weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament, concrete specification is 75D-72F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing (single bath process) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 350T/M, and filling twist is 2400T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 55%, warp-wise density be 138/inch latitudinal density be 95/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 104g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 90 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 8 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is 1.5%, and broadwise size changing rate is-0.5%, becomes and fades into 4 ~ 5 grades, WW be 3.6 grades concrete as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 2
60D silkworm silk long filament selected by warp thread, weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament, concrete specification is 60D-36F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing (single bath process) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 300T/M, and filling twist is 2000T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 30%, warp-wise density be 120/inch latitudinal density be 70/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 70g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 60 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 0 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is-1.0%, and broadwise size changing rate is-0.2%, becomes and fades into 4 grades, WW be 4.0 grades concrete as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 3
84D silkworm silk long filament selected by warp thread, weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament, concrete specification is 60D-36F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing (single bath process) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 400T/M, and filling twist is 2500T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 60%, warp-wise density be 140/inch latitudinal density be 100/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 110g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 110 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 9 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is 3.0%, and broadwise size changing rate is-2.7%, becomes and fades into 4 grades, WW be 4.2 grades concrete as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 4
All select silkworm silk can contaminate the conjunction twisted filament of terylene with normal pressure dispersion through weft yarn, concrete specification is 84D silkworm silk/75D-72F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing (single bath process) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 350T/M, and filling twist is 1800T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 58%, warp-wise density be 78/inch latitudinal density be 75/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 80 g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 105 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 5 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is 0.3%, and broadwise size changing rate is 0.1%, becomes and fades into 4 ~ 5 grades, WW be 4.5 grades concrete as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 5
All select silkworm silk can contaminate the conjunction twisted filament of terylene with normal pressure dispersion through weft yarn, concrete specification is 60D silkworm silk/50D-36F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing (single bath process) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 500T/M, and filling twist is 2600T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 42%, warp-wise density be 85/inch latitudinal density be 80/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 75 g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 80 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 2 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is 2.1%, and broadwise size changing rate is-1.5%, becomes and fades into 4 grades, WW be 3.2 grades concrete as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 6
All select silkworm silk can contaminate the conjunction twisted filament of terylene with normal pressure dispersion through weft yarn, concrete specification is 42D silkworm silk/40D-36F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing (single bath process) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 100T/M, and filling twist is 600T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 45%, warp-wise density be 82/inch latitudinal density be 80/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 68 g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 70 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 6 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is-2.8%, and broadwise size changing rate is 3.0%, becomes and fades into 4 grades, WW be 3.8 grades concrete as shown in table 1.
Comparative example 1
84D silkworm silk long filament selected by warp thread, weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament, concrete specification is 75D-72F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree (two bath methods) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 350T/M, and filling twist is 2400T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 55%, warp-wise density be 115/inch latitudinal density be 80/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 75g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 20 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 100 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is 6.0%, and broadwise size changing rate is-4.2%, becomes and fades into 2 ~ 3 grades, WW be 2 grades concrete as shown in table 2.
Comparative example 2
All select silkworm silk can contaminate the conjunction twisted filament of terylene with normal pressure dispersion through weft yarn, concrete specification is 84D silkworm silk/75D-72F-FDY, after using plain weave weaving to obtain grey cloth, carry out sizing dyeing in the middle of 95 degree concise 170 degree (two bath methods) water suction supple resin processing and sorting sizing and prepare the woven fabric of the present invention.
Wherein warp twist is 350T/M, and filling twist is 1800T/M, S:Z=2:2, and finished product fabric silkworm silk content is 58%, warp-wise density be 72/inch latitudinal density be 70/inch, fabric grammes per square metre is 78g/m2。
The finished product crape degree of depth is 15 μm, the filoplume number of length 50 μm be 80 according to JIS1096 2010 standard wash 3 times after, warp-wise size changing rate is-4.5%, and broadwise size changing rate is 5.0%, becomes and fades into 3 grades, WW be 2.5 grades concrete as shown in table 2.
Claims (6)
1. wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric for one kind, it is characterised in that: described woven fabric can be contaminated polyester filament by silkworm silk with normal pressure dispersion and constitute, and on woven fabric cloth cover, the crape degree of depth is 60 ~ 110 μm, and the filoplume number of length 50 μm is 10/cm2Below.
The most according to claim 1 wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric, it is characterised in that: in described woven fabric, the content of silkworm silk is 30 ~ 60%, and it is 40 ~ 70% that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate the content of polyester filament.
The most according to claim 1 wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric, it is characterised in that: the warp thread of described woven fabric is silkworm silk long filament, and weft yarn is that normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament；Or warp thread is the warp thread conjunction twisted filament that silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure disperse to contaminate polyester filament formation, weft yarn is the weft yarn conjunction twisted filament that silkworm silk long filament and normal pressure dispersion can contaminate polyester filament formation.
The most according to claim 3 wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric, it is characterised in that: it is 100 ~ 500 T/M that described warp thread closes the twist of twisted filament, and it is 600 ~ 2600T/M that described weft yarn closes the twist of twisted filament.
The most according to claim 1 wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric, it is characterised in that: it is the copolyesters long fibre containing 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol construction unit that the dispersion of described normal pressure can contaminate polyester filament.
The most according to claim 1 wash a crepe de Chine woven fabric, it is characterised in that: after described woven fabric is washed according to JIS1096 2010 standard 3 back scrubbing, size changing rate is 0 ~ ± 3.0%, becoming and fade more than 4 grades, WW is more than 3 grades.
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| CN201510315169.0A CN106245188A (en) | 2015-06-10 | 2015-06-10 | One washs a crepe de Chine woven fabric |
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111118702A (en) * | 2019-12-29 | 2020-05-08 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | Preparation method of polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric |
| CN111519312A (en) * | 2020-04-28 | 2020-08-11 | 安徽宏祥丝绸织造有限公司 | Preparation method of drape-crack-resistant fiber for heavy crepe |
| CN111748894A (en) * | 2020-05-22 | 2020-10-09 | 北京服装学院 | Crepe tissue designed based on tissue point iteration method and fabric thereof |
| CN113334872A (en) * | 2021-06-11 | 2021-09-03 | 江苏明源纺织有限公司 | Crepe fabric with warp-wise foaming |
-
2015
- 2015-06-10 CN CN201510315169.0A patent/CN106245188A/en active Pending
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111118702A (en) * | 2019-12-29 | 2020-05-08 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | Preparation method of polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric |
| CN111118702B (en) * | 2019-12-29 | 2021-06-25 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | Preparation method of polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric |
| CN111519312A (en) * | 2020-04-28 | 2020-08-11 | 安徽宏祥丝绸织造有限公司 | Preparation method of drape-crack-resistant fiber for heavy crepe |
| CN111748894A (en) * | 2020-05-22 | 2020-10-09 | 北京服装学院 | Crepe tissue designed based on tissue point iteration method and fabric thereof |
| CN113334872A (en) * | 2021-06-11 | 2021-09-03 | 江苏明源纺织有限公司 | Crepe fabric with warp-wise foaming |
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